Very helpful. Thanks. For a pro cutting through veneers and melamine faced chipboard many times a week - looks perfect. For retired heavy-duty DiYer cutting such material occasionally, a shallow reverse cut, maybe with tape, using a standard tracksaw is sufficient. Especially with the extra weight and needing longer track. 20 years ago, this would have been worth the upgrade
hmmm. I was hoping this could be used in conjunction with a festool conturo to make edge banded melamine/veneer/laminated cabinets. It would allow professional grade cabinetry in a tiny woodshop (in case time is of no importance). But the edges still don't seem quite sharp enough. So a standalone edge bander with pre-mill still seems like it will give better results. And if you do a pre-mill of say 2mm than it really doesn't matter that much if you've used a scoring cut. So just seems quite expensive for not much gain.
I'd be curious to see how the cut with the "60" saw, using the scoring blade, would compare to using the "60" (or the "55") without the scoring blade, after applying durable tape along the cut line. I realize applying tape is an extra step and is an additional cost, but I am thinking it would allow my already-purchased "55" to produce a similar cut as the "60" with the scoring blade, and without putting-out another $1k for a new saw. I also wouldn't be looking forward to the extra weight and length the "60" possesses. Thanks for the detailed review!
Hi thanks for the feedback! And i think i would say if you already have one and not doing veneer play all day, you are fine with tape indeed. The weight en length is a bit annoying indeed i am not really used to it!
I have bought TS 60 it comes with 42 teeth wood blade. I can cut laminate its ok, but not very good. So do you familiar with special laminate blade? Did you use it? If yes, is it worth to buy or it will not give big difference, thanks
@@hrayrohanyan4498 yes it’s worth buying a saw blade for laminated wood. I have a T 60 blade so I can do super fine cuts with that as well but still it’s hard to compare to this double bladed track saw
Can you confirm if 340mm of guide rail overhang at either end of a workpiece is sufficient for this longer saw base? This is going to be my first track saw. Given the extra length of this saw's base for the scoring blade, (you mentioned approximately 50mm), I am trying to work out what length(s) of guide rail I need to buy for initial specific cut lengths. There are Festool package options available in the UK for this saw which include a 1900mm long guide rail (UK option KSV60-KEBQ-plus-FS - I assume the package is cheaper than buying the guiderail separately). I initially plan to use this saw to cut large veneered plywood sheets (for campervan furniture and garage cupboards) which are typically 2438mm x 1219mm (8 foot x 4 foot sheets or slightly smaller metric equivalent) and worktops which are 600mm wide. As these guide rails are expensive, I need to calculate the optimum length of guide rail / combination of rail lengths required to cut such a sheet size. The Festool spec sheet states the tool is 414mm long (including the extractor connector). I assume this is longer than the saw's actual base length that rests on the guide rail. But without the actual base length (or rather the absolute minimum length of guide rail required to support the base at the start and end of the cut) I will use this length to conservatively calculate the total length of guide rail required to cut a 2438mm long sheet. Therefore, that implies 2x414mm + 2438mm = 3266mm. Given the Festool package option includes a 1900mm long guide rail, a possible combination of guide rail lengths of 1900mm and 1400mm would suffice for this length of cut. To cut the 1219mm wide portion of the sheet would imply I need a guide rail of length 2x414 + 1219 = 2047mm. So, the 1900mm guide rail would not be long enough. The next standard guide rail length option is 2400mm. Which is an awkward length of guide rail for a 1219mm long cut. So the ideal minimum length of guide rail overhang at either end of the cut is 1900-1219=681 divided by 2 = 340mm. Not 414mm. Also, I will be cutting worktops of width 600mm. They would possibly require 2x414 + 600 = 1428mm. I would hope a 1400mm long guide rail would be long enough. Thanks in advance.
Спасибо, нет хорошего обзора на русском языке. Пользуюсь тс 55, на верхней стороне заготовки всегда появляются сколы, сколлко не меняй противоскольных лент. Спасибо за видео.
Можно попробовать на минимальном заглублении 1 мм первый проход обратным ходом делать (имитация того, что на этой пиле делает малый диск), потом на полную глубину прямым. Если диск с пробегом - может помочь чистка.
Nice review, But PLEASE work on your sound. Your voice is low but all the banging around is SO loud. And so much banging around. Sorry, hard to watch. :(
Wow, what a great tutorial. Clean, concise and informative. Plus bonus points for not rambling on.
Thanks
I bought this last month and it’s a brilliant piece of kit
Very helpful. Thanks. For a pro cutting through veneers and melamine faced chipboard many times a week - looks perfect.
For retired heavy-duty DiYer cutting such material occasionally, a shallow reverse cut, maybe with tape, using a standard tracksaw is sufficient. Especially with the extra weight and needing longer track. 20 years ago, this would have been worth the upgrade
hmmm. I was hoping this could be used in conjunction with a festool conturo to make edge banded melamine/veneer/laminated cabinets. It would allow professional grade cabinetry in a tiny woodshop (in case time is of no importance). But the edges still don't seem quite sharp enough. So a standalone edge bander with pre-mill still seems like it will give better results. And if you do a pre-mill of say 2mm than it really doesn't matter that much if you've used a scoring cut. So just seems quite expensive for not much gain.
Can you please share results of the undercut? Is it cleanwith/without support underneath? Thank you!
Brilliant review . I'm buying one . Thanks !
Thank you for your feedback and good wishes with your new saw
Thanks for the review. I have this saw on my wish list when available in the US. Cheers!
Cool to here I definitely recommend it
Thanks for a very informative review, your English is excellent!
Thanks for the feedback
Is that track base on the saw made of metal or plastic?
Aluminium
@@DCreationwoodworking Thank you
Wonder how it scores on Baltic Birch or cabinet quality plywood
I tested it really clean as well
I'd be curious to see how the cut with the "60" saw, using the scoring blade, would compare to using the "60" (or the "55") without the scoring blade, after applying durable tape along the cut line. I realize applying tape is an extra step and is an additional cost, but I am thinking it would allow my already-purchased "55" to produce a similar cut as the "60" with the scoring blade, and without putting-out another $1k for a new saw. I also wouldn't be looking forward to the extra weight and length the "60" possesses. Thanks for the detailed review!
Hi thanks for the feedback! And i think i would say if you already have one and not doing veneer play all day, you are fine with tape indeed. The weight en length is a bit annoying indeed i am not really used to it!
Thanks for video. Can you say without scoring blade can we get the same results with special laminate blade from festool? Thanks
On one side you get a clean cut with a laminate blade the scoring blade is just for the other side so a double clean edge.
@@DCreationwoodworking is big difference with laminate blade and 42 which comes with saw?
@@hrayrohanyan4498 blade WOOD FINE CUT HW 168x1,8x20 omes with the saw
I have bought TS 60 it comes with 42 teeth wood blade. I can cut laminate its ok, but not very good. So do you familiar with special laminate blade? Did you use it? If yes, is it worth to buy or it will not give big difference, thanks
@@hrayrohanyan4498 yes it’s worth buying a saw blade for laminated wood. I have a T 60 blade so I can do super fine cuts with that as well but still it’s hard to compare to this double bladed track saw
Nice presentation. I have waited on a tracksaw and glad I did.
Excellent presentation. one tip slow the camera down a bit, make the pauses 2 seconds longer. I like the sped up parts they save me time.
Many thanks for your feedback and reply. I will keep that in my mind thanks.
Can you get this saw in cordless.?
Nope not yet
Cool review bro 😎
Can you confirm if 340mm of guide rail overhang at either end of a workpiece is sufficient for this longer saw base?
This is going to be my first track saw. Given the extra length of this saw's base for the scoring blade, (you mentioned approximately 50mm), I am trying to work out what length(s) of guide rail I need to buy for initial specific cut lengths.
There are Festool package options available in the UK for this saw which include a 1900mm long guide rail (UK option KSV60-KEBQ-plus-FS - I assume the package is cheaper than buying the guiderail separately). I initially plan to use this saw to cut large veneered plywood sheets (for campervan furniture and garage cupboards) which are typically 2438mm x 1219mm (8 foot x 4 foot sheets or slightly smaller metric equivalent) and worktops which are 600mm wide. As these guide rails are expensive, I need to calculate the optimum length of guide rail / combination of rail lengths required to cut such a sheet size. The Festool spec sheet states the tool is 414mm long (including the extractor connector). I assume this is longer than the saw's actual base length that rests on the guide rail. But without the actual base length (or rather the absolute minimum length of guide rail required to support the base at the start and end of the cut) I will use this length to conservatively calculate the total length of guide rail required to cut a 2438mm long sheet. Therefore, that implies 2x414mm + 2438mm = 3266mm. Given the Festool package option includes a 1900mm long guide rail, a possible combination of guide rail lengths of 1900mm and 1400mm would suffice for this length of cut.
To cut the 1219mm wide portion of the sheet would imply I need a guide rail of length 2x414 + 1219 = 2047mm. So, the 1900mm guide rail would not be long enough. The next standard guide rail length option is 2400mm. Which is an awkward length of guide rail for a 1219mm long cut. So the ideal minimum length of guide rail overhang at either end of the cut is 1900-1219=681 divided by 2 = 340mm. Not 414mm.
Also, I will be cutting worktops of width 600mm. They would possibly require 2x414 + 600 = 1428mm. I would hope a 1400mm long guide rail would be long enough.
Thanks in advance.
I will measure it in the shop and let you know
best tracksaw👍
it is really worth it but finding the right size blades is always an agony
It is the new version of festool I always typw in rhat article number
Спасибо, нет хорошего обзора на русском языке. Пользуюсь тс 55, на верхней стороне заготовки всегда появляются сколы, сколлко не меняй противоскольных лент.
Спасибо за видео.
Можно попробовать на минимальном заглублении 1 мм первый проход обратным ходом делать (имитация того, что на этой пиле делает малый диск), потом на полную глубину прямым. Если диск с пробегом - может помочь чистка.
Nice review, But PLEASE work on your sound. Your voice is low but all the banging around is SO loud. And so much banging around. Sorry, hard to watch. :(
Will work on it thanks just have a new microphone so should be better thanks again
Another overpriced saw with odd sized blade that's hard to find
Good thing you don't have to buy it.