Hey man Thanks for the info! I am new to boats and trying to learn as much as possible to NOT do anything stupid....always wondered if that plug goes inside or outside...I didn't even know about bilge pumps....came to your video after watching another video about people sinking their boat at the launch ramp....freaking subscribed! Cheers!
Hey man just wanted to let you know I appreciate your videos.I just bought a 1989 StarCraft v hull. I have put a deck in a jon boats but your drive a determination to make these things awesome,has inspired me to do the same...thanks again..lines tight!
My old (1999) aluminium 14' boat didn't have anywhere to mount a bilge pump (I guess there were uncommon 25 years ago) and I'm allergic to putting screw holes in my transom/hull. When I bought it a year ago it had an old (dead) pump tied to a brace with cable ties and no float switch so I used sikaflex (marine silicon) to glue an aluminiim extrusion to the bottom of the bilge and screwed the (new) pump & switch to that. It's a lot sturdier but it's also about 3/4" above the hull due to the thickness of the extrusion which means it has to take on an inch and a half of water before ut turns on so I'm going to make that my seconday pump and put another one on the port side, lower down on a more narrow extrusion as a primary one. One thought, you need a fuse on BOTH the power lines to the pump (manual) & the switch (automatic) because ALL power lines should be fused, and it's a good idea to put in an isolation switch so you can disable the automatic side too. When those float switches close & open they can make a small spark and you don't want that happening if you have a fuel leak or you're refueling or changing tanks. If you put in isolation switches, also put in a "power" indicator light, and connect it AFTER the fuse so you'll know if the fuse is blown. There's no point having a light to tell you the isolation switch is on if the pump's not enabled due to a blown fuse.
i got a drain plug with a check ball so if you forget the plug it seals off but it will let the water out on shore. has a brass plug just wish it had a tether. am waiting patiently for the livewell video
just a suggestion. them cheap rubber boat plugs for you push them in tighten them up and then fold it over. I've seen them come loose and that's just a very easy fix if you was to install a pipe going through and thread it. and he's a brass plug you can install it on the inside or the outside it would seriously have to have a lot of things go wrong for it to unthread itself and fall out whether it be on the inside or the outside of the boat. I wouldn't want that to happen to my worst enemy
he mistakenly said 1600 Gallon Per Minute . That would Propel the Boat if installed different it is 1600 Gallons per Hour it is 26.6 Gallons Per Minute capable which is a Lot of water
Anyone have any experience with adding stability so there boat won’t roll. I’ve looked up collars and stabilizers but nothing made for a topper that I can find?
Hi, love your vids! I have a 1996 bass boat that was completely gutted, its repainted with new carpeting and seats but wiring is completely out, any chance I can have your help with how and what needs to be done to make it work?
Tiny Boat Nation thank you, any chance you have a vid on what goes where in a boat? Some overview of what bass boat should have and where it is installed?
So the auto float bilge you still run it to a manual override switch? Did I hear that right? I’m going to be putting one in this spring so just want to make sure.
@@TinyBoatNation have you have any problems with this wiring! I wasn't sure if this was ok having two switches coneccion with same appliance and a same ground! I have same kind of panel and those switches are only on- off, and couldn't find a rocker of those that will be on-on. So I came with same idea you did but using same (+) power that goes in to the switch (panel) to feed the float.. Haven't installed yet!
Yep and you don't need to panic or go fast in beginning just over idle like 7mph will be enough to start it flowing out transom. Trust me my buddy had a 16 princraft and during tourny we didn't have plug in from the time we launched waited for take off we noticed bow hi and slow time to plane out . Than thru no wake zone we stopped to fish a spot for about 20 min jig.. thats when I noticed a map was wet thouht cooler was leaking lol floor was soaked turned around and said oh shit lol took off bow almost straight up and drove around for about q0 min in circles until we figured out we need to go right to a launch ramp and beach it till we find the plug. Can't sink in 2 ft water lol
If you install your pump near your fuel tank, be sure the compartment is vented properly or you are asking for trouble.
Hey man Thanks for the info! I am new to boats and trying to learn as much as possible to NOT do anything stupid....always wondered if that plug goes inside or outside...I didn't even know about bilge pumps....came to your video after watching another video about people sinking their boat at the launch ramp....freaking subscribed! Cheers!
Hey man just wanted to let you know I appreciate your videos.I just bought a 1989 StarCraft v hull. I have put a deck in a jon boats but your drive a determination to make these things awesome,has inspired me to do the same...thanks again..lines tight!
Just got my tbnation decals today they’re awesome. One on my truck, my son has one, and 2 on my boat.
My old (1999) aluminium 14' boat didn't have anywhere to mount a bilge pump (I guess there were uncommon 25 years ago) and I'm allergic to putting screw holes in my transom/hull. When I bought it a year ago it had an old (dead) pump tied to a brace with cable ties and no float switch so I used sikaflex (marine silicon) to glue an aluminiim extrusion to the bottom of the bilge and screwed the (new) pump & switch to that. It's a lot sturdier but it's also about 3/4" above the hull due to the thickness of the extrusion which means it has to take on an inch and a half of water before ut turns on so I'm going to make that my seconday pump and put another one on the port side, lower down on a more narrow extrusion as a primary one.
One thought, you need a fuse on BOTH the power lines to the pump (manual) & the switch (automatic) because ALL power lines should be fused, and it's a good idea to put in an isolation switch so you can disable the automatic side too. When those float switches close & open they can make a small spark and you don't want that happening if you have a fuel leak or you're refueling or changing tanks. If you put in isolation switches, also put in a "power" indicator light, and connect it AFTER the fuse so you'll know if the fuse is blown. There's no point having a light to tell you the isolation switch is on if the pump's not enabled due to a blown fuse.
Great information👍
i got a drain plug with a check ball so if you forget the plug it seals off but it will let the water out on shore. has a brass plug just wish it had a tether. am waiting patiently for the livewell video
@TinyBoatNation Hi I'm new to boating so does water lay in the bilge on a boat at the back and when the water gets to high the pump drains it
thanks
just a suggestion. them cheap rubber boat plugs for you push them in tighten them up and then fold it over. I've seen them come loose and that's just a very easy fix if you was to install a pipe going through and thread it. and he's a brass plug you can install it on the inside or the outside it would seriously have to have a lot of things go wrong for it to unthread itself and fall out whether it be on the inside or the outside of the boat. I wouldn't want that to happen to my worst enemy
How did you fasten the bilge pump to the aluminum boat
he mistakenly said 1600 Gallon Per Minute . That would Propel the Boat if installed different it is 1600 Gallons per Hour it is 26.6 Gallons Per Minute capable which is a Lot of water
Thanks
Anyone have any experience with adding stability so there boat won’t roll. I’ve looked up collars and stabilizers but nothing made for a topper that I can find?
How big of a motor do you recommend for one of your boats
Hi, love your vids! I have a 1996 bass boat that was completely gutted, its repainted with new carpeting and seats but wiring is completely out, any chance I can have your help with how and what needs to be done to make it work?
Tiny Boat Nation thank you, any chance you have a vid on what goes where in a boat? Some overview of what bass boat should have and where it is installed?
If I'm in an "oh crap" situation I for sure don't want some Amazon off brand. Spend the extra $10 and get a good brand name.
Get rid of those quikcsilver fuel lines from tank,they like to Fall apart from inside
Would you recommend putting both pumps on auto only or at least one on the switch panel?
Yes!
@@TinyBoatNation I’m sorry yes to switch one?
My pump won't suck out water unless the pump is mostly submerged. Idk why Mayne a shit pump. But its definitely not safe. Any recommendations?
Replace it with a credible pump. All pumps wanna about any water unless they’re submerged a certain depth.
@@TinyBoatNation anything reccomend of standard size?
My “oh crap” Bilge pump is 3500 GPH , I’m not playing around with water in the boat if the 1100 GPH don’t keep up!
hope your battery can keep up with a moving 3500 gph
Nice bro
Great video!!!
gas tank in the bildge compartment?????
gas fumes near electricity
There is a giant vent right there…
So the auto float bilge you still run it to a manual override switch? Did I hear that right? I’m going to be putting one in this spring so just want to make sure.
@@TinyBoatNation have you have any problems with this wiring! I wasn't sure if this was ok having two switches coneccion with same appliance and a same ground! I have same kind of panel and those switches are only on- off, and couldn't find a rocker of those that will be on-on. So I came with same idea you did but using same (+) power that goes in to the switch (panel) to feed the float.. Haven't installed yet!
if you forget your plug just start your motor and it will run out all by itself until you stop then it will start filling again
Ahaha good old bung run
Yep and you don't need to panic or go fast in beginning just over idle like 7mph will be enough to start it flowing out transom. Trust me my buddy had a 16 princraft and during tourny we didn't have plug in from the time we launched waited for take off we noticed bow hi and slow time to plane out . Than thru no wake zone we stopped to fish a spot for about 20 min jig.. thats when I noticed a map was wet thouht cooler was leaking lol floor was soaked turned around and said oh shit lol took off bow almost straight up and drove around for about q0 min in circles until we figured out we need to go right to a launch ramp and beach it till we find the plug. Can't sink in 2 ft water lol
1600 gallons per minute? Per hour maybe
Id really like to see a video of you flooding one of your builds and see how the foam affects the buoyancy?? Thanks
💯 😂
Most importantly, it needs to bilge out above the water line
Didn't show how to wire it up?
Check out more wiring vids from us. You wire it either directly to the battery or right to the fuse block/switch
He said 1600 gallons per minute 😂