Hello Mr Beard, I’m about as deep into dad’s ‘41 B. One cylinder is beautiful and the other evidently has a crack or pinhole from the water jacket. Thank you for your “Ramblings” as you call it. There’s a lot of information and details that can get overlooked, but with your play by play dialogue it is easier and more enjoyable to follow along. I have the same history of just tearing into my “toys”, however I am learning that a brief tutorial can save time, money & headaches! Bless’ns to ya sir, Tedd
Mr. Beard, Thank you for taking the time to make and post these videos. I am gearing up to do the same to my 1950 JD B, which I realize is different in ways from your 1946, but there are also similarities. Unfortunately, my tractor is in much worse condition, and the pistons are badly stuck. However, I grew up with this tractor (on our family farm), it used to run like a sewing machine, then it went out of my care for a number of years (which is where the motor was seized), and, now that the old gal is back in my care, I am going to do exactly as you did with your 1946 ... just take it slowly, one step at a time, and see if I can bring the old gal back to life. Thanks for going slow, giving us good clear pictures, and talking us through each step. Its almost like we are right there in the shop with you. Please keep making these videos, sharing your knowledge and experiences with us, and allowing us to tag along with you there in the shop. Thanks again!
Why are the rod bolts still in the rids, yet you have 4 bolts in the rod caps in the bucket? Also, are you referring to the bearings as shims? You flattened one out to reuse??
It has been awhile since I did the video. The piston rod has poured babbitt bearings, there are sims you can remove as the bearing wears. The sequence of the video clips tends to jump.
Well, if you have to work on those oil lines then going in through the front is certainly the easiest. Doing it from the crank case access port can be challenging. One thing to note, that is actually the oil pump in the front, and the oil filter housing is the canister-like piece in the back. The oil pump in the front has a screen around it to try and filter anything out before it gets sucked into the pump. I didn't get a good look, but it looked like the governor gear that mates with the fan shaft was pretty rusty. That is a problem with these if they sit too long. Mine was pretty pitted after all of the years and not being oiled that I had to replace it. Hopefully yours is just surface rust.
Daniel, I agree, I had examined the rusty gear and the amount of Rust appears marginal. As I have stated a good while back this is a puzzle tractor, or tractor in a box. The original restorer only got part way before it was sold at auction, and I bought it from the auction buyer. Who had lost interest in dealing with it. The tractor did come with a surplus of various parts, tagged for resale. With all that said hopefully I will soon get the oil line repaired and start reassembling.
This is a puzzle tractor ... original mechanic was building it from multiple parted out tractors . So Gov most likely set without lubricant .... exposed to the east Texas humidity. Mainly it is flash rust. It will disappear once the engine gets back to running
Hello Mr Beard, I’m about as deep into dad’s ‘41 B. One cylinder is beautiful and the other evidently has a crack or pinhole from the water jacket.
Thank you for your “Ramblings” as you call it. There’s a lot of information and details that can get overlooked, but with your play by play dialogue it is easier and more enjoyable to follow along.
I have the same history of just tearing into my “toys”, however I am learning that a brief tutorial can save time, money & headaches!
Bless’ns to ya sir, Tedd
It is my hope all will learn from mistakes
Mr. Beard, Thank you for taking the time to make and post these videos. I am gearing up to do the same to my 1950 JD B, which I realize is different in ways from your 1946, but there are also similarities. Unfortunately, my tractor is in much worse condition, and the pistons are badly stuck. However, I grew up with this tractor (on our family farm), it used to run like a sewing machine, then it went out of my care for a number of years (which is where the motor was seized), and, now that the old gal is back in my care, I am going to do exactly as you did with your 1946 ... just take it slowly, one step at a time, and see if I can bring the old gal back to life. Thanks for going slow, giving us good clear pictures, and talking us through each step. Its almost like we are right there in the shop with you. Please keep making these videos, sharing your knowledge and experiences with us, and allowing us to tag along with you there in the shop. Thanks again!
Dear Dean :
Thank you for your kind comments.
I hope my ramblings are of some benefit to you.
I was that way too I have always like to tinker especially with Engines these days.
My grandmother always said the first thing I did when I got a toy was to take it apart
Big job ,!
Nice work !
Kinda like me , take it apart , and learn as I go , sometimes it works , and sometimes not ! Haha,
Good luck with it !!
What’s the worse that can happen. It was already broken
Why are the rod bolts still in the rids, yet you have 4 bolts in the rod caps in the bucket? Also, are you referring to the bearings as shims? You flattened one out to reuse??
It has been awhile since I did the video. The piston rod has poured babbitt bearings, there are sims you can remove as the bearing wears. The sequence of the video clips tends to jump.
Are you going to install new rings too you might as well.
Good suggestion
Well, if you have to work on those oil lines then going in through the front is certainly the easiest. Doing it from the crank case access port can be challenging. One thing to note, that is actually the oil pump in the front, and the oil filter housing is the canister-like piece in the back. The oil pump in the front has a screen around it to try and filter anything out before it gets sucked into the pump. I didn't get a good look, but it looked like the governor gear that mates with the fan shaft was pretty rusty. That is a problem with these if they sit too long. Mine was pretty pitted after all of the years and not being oiled that I had to replace it. Hopefully yours is just surface rust.
Daniel, I agree, I had examined the rusty gear and the amount of Rust appears marginal. As I have stated a good while back this is a puzzle tractor, or tractor in a box. The original restorer only got part way before it was sold at auction, and I bought it from the auction buyer. Who had lost interest in dealing with it. The tractor did come with a surplus of various parts, tagged for resale. With all that said hopefully I will soon get the oil line repaired and start reassembling.
Why is gear in GOV all rusty? Thanks for
This is a puzzle tractor ... original mechanic was building it from multiple parted out tractors . So Gov most likely set without lubricant .... exposed to the east Texas humidity. Mainly it is flash rust. It will disappear once the engine gets back to running
koooooooooooooooooooooool!! have a 47 meself may need work in a year or 2 . grip and flip starter
👍