Outboard Alarm on Yamaha 2 Stroke
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- 3 reasons why you get an alarm on a Yamaha 2 stroke outboard
1) Oil
Check your oil level on the aux tank as well as under the cowling. Check the oil sensor ( as shown) on the reservoir under the cowling.
2) Overheat
Overheat can be caused by a bad impeller, bad thermostats, bad poppet valve, clogged cooling passages.
3) Water in the Fuel - Навчання та стиль
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You Saved Our Florida fishing trip with this video. Thank you
That is awesome news! Thank you for watching & hope you guys enjoyed your stay in Florida. 👍🏽👍🏽
N dbx
Got a new used boat and although there was plenty of oil in the reservoir the plunger was not completely submerged. Idk if adding oil or rotating the float or pushing all the connections together fixed it but the alarm that I didn't know what it meant is now gone. I appreciate you. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Michael thanks for watching! Glad you got that alarm fixed. On your next few outings just check to make sure the oil is refilling the outboard reservoir and that you are consuming oil at the end of the trip. If those check out you are good to go 👍🏽
@@ReelTeaseFishing thanks for responding. I have a different Yamaha outboard but the alarm was the same. It's a pontoon and there is no external reservoir. Likely that's why the alarm was going off so early. The tank is fairly large, I added a quart and it's still not quite full. But the alarm is gone. I do appreciate the help, thank you very much.
Thanks for the video! Super helpful
Hi, thanks for sharing this. My hpdi 300 went into limp mode (limited to 2000 rpm via misfiring). It's not one of these three things since the alarm is normally off. Once I disconnect any of these three sensors you mentioned, I get the alarm.
I have
- Checked shift position sensor (via YDS),
- Replaced all the injectors, ECU, stator, pulser coil, voltage regulator, TPS, and crank position sensor..
- Tested Injector drivers to see if they get the proper voltage (60V).
- Tested Harness voltage (5v) as well. (no voltage reduction due to a corroded coupling)
- Replaced all the fuel filters (including mystery filters)
- Checked VST pressure
- Changed oil, and tested oil-related components (remote/engine oil pumps)
- Did the Link and Sync and confirmed voltage via yds
- No bad grounds
- No diagnostic code on YDS. All the metrics (fuel pressure, temp) are in the expected range.
Any ideas?
I had a very troublesome HPDI and went down this exact route.
If I am reading correctly you are in a reduced mode but have no alarm sounding?
I’d check the low pressure fuel pumps
After that I’d make sure the ground cable (main battery cable harness) is in good shape. (My issue was this)
Have you done a compression test?
@@ReelTeaseFishing yes it’s in a reduced mode w/o alarm sounding. I replaced the LP pumps and cleaned the filter in VST tank. Low pressure is 50psi and high pressure is in the expected range (700-1100psi) .I also checked the connectivity between the negative terminal and the motor ground points (inc’l the main harness) and it was good. 120 psi on all cylinders. One thing I noticed is that when I removed the crank position sensor, it went up to 3500rpm on high idle (misfires as expected). So I thought it was the CPS or ECU and replaced them but it didn’t help either. Is there a way to adjust the timing ? How can I make sure that crank is in the corrrect position?
@@apibond8539 it’s very weird that your CPS would be off especially after replacing. Limp mode w/o an alarm usually checks out as a bad Neutral safety switch or a bad shift position switch.
You are,asome dude , i have the 225 yamaha,2002 thanks for posting these nice videos,
Thank you for the support 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks man was my engine tank float switch!
Awesome! Glad the video helped 👍🏽
Also you can check and replace your filter on your auxiliary tank. Sometimes that is all that’s wrong and it’s a cheap fix.
Keep up the good work
Thank you for the support 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks bro!
You Welcome! Glad you found it helpful
Hi. I have a 90 hp. yamaha 2 stroke . The boat is not in the water , and i just turned the key on and the red light and buzzer came on ,the oil tank is full . You are talking about a aux. tank all i have is the tank on the motor . I think it is a 1987 motor. I will check the float in the oil tank.... thanks.
Hey love the video, just purchased a boat with an 2001 ox66250. Any tricks to make sure the oil injections working properly? Also do you see these oil injection systems failing??? Would it be a safer route to just delete the oil pump and do your own mix or not necessary?
Hey Reid,
The OX66 is an excellent outboard with a very dependable oiling system. It has fail safe features that will warn you if something fails.
Best preventative maintenance would be to replace the oil filter located behind the main oil tank on the boat. (It’s a little white online filter) we have a video on this.
Secondly I would run Yamahas recommend oil or penzoil XLF has had great performance on this outboard.
You can check to see if the pump is pumping by disconnecting the oil hose that runs to the outboard oil tank and then hit the emergency oil switch for 30 seconds. Oil should come out that hose. We also have a video of this in our oil pump replacement video. (This process must be done with key in the on position)
My mercury 90 horse 2 stroke was in alarm when I was running it I will check these things
Poppet valve on both my 2.6 and 3.1
Hey great video!
I have a 1998 Yamaha 150 Salt Series 2 stroke, and Ive been having a problem with the alarm for a while now
Over the past months the engine has been working good with sporadic times where the low oil level will come on with the alarm. But now the alarm is on constantly, nothing I do will turn the alarm off. It will run good a low RPMs and then when I throttle up it will alternate going high and low, up and down without toughing the throttle.
Ive changed out the batteries a couple of months ago, changed the gas filter (no sensor here), checked that both oil level sensors are working properly, checked both thermostats and poppet valve. Both oil tanks are full, and the engine starts with no problems. Ive tried looking through the harness wiring but can seem to find any kinks or shorts.
Of note: when I go to the back panel and disconnect the yellow wire from the CDI the alarm will stop and the engine will only work at low RPMs which is what I've been using the boat with, but as soon as I reconnect the yellow cable the alarm comes back on.
Let me know if there is anything else I should check
Thanks!
I’d suspect the alarm is coming from the oil system. While the alarm is on have you tried to remove the oil cap on the outboard and flip it over. Leave it flipped over for 30 seconds and see if the alarm turns off.
If it does your float is bad. Replace
Is the oil tanks filling automatically?
Also do you have a Yamaha multifunction gauge?
Does that yellow wire go in paired with a white wire too?
My boat the last two outings have went into limp mode and that low oil light come on both tanks are full I've done a test like you did on the sensor on the motor and it works fine it has done it twice but after it does it you can go in and take off and it runs fine
You may have a dirty filter on the main tank. I have a video showing how to change it.
A dirty filter causes the tank on the motor to fill too slowly and will usually consume it faster than it can replace it. This causes an alarm while underway for a while then you stop tinker with it and the oil tank will fill up.
That’s my guess.
Another issue could be the float valve in the main tank. Remember you have a low oil sensor in the motor oil tank and the main tank
Thanks for getting back with me on my problem I think I'm going to put a new sensor in the main tank and see if that solves my problem
@@victornicholson5932 also not a bad idea to clean the contacts and pins on the oil harness
I have a 94 Yamaha pro v 200 that sounds the alarm and the oil warning flashes on the dash but it only does so when I get on the throttle and not at an idle
Clogged oil filter on your auxiliary tank. Look at my videos I have a video showing how to replace it
I have replaced the impeller. I have replaced the thermostats. I have cleaned the carbs. I have replaced the spark plugs. I don't have an oil tank, as it is a direct mix 50 to 1. The engine still will not go past 2000 rpms under load. Cranks right up, runs fine in idle. 1998 Yamaha 150 two stroke.
Check to see if your outboard has a shift position switch or a neutral safety switch.
I would say the shift position switch is a common problem that depicts this issue.
Secondly look into your cables, both positive and negatives (especially the grounds) clean them up. Make sure everything is tight and clean and make sure the battery is in good condition and holding a good charge even under load.
@@ReelTeaseFishing I took the water jacket covers and cylinder covers off. They were all free of obstructions. Put new gaskets on, reinstalled. The batteries are brand new. I'm not sure where to look for the switches you mentioned, or if this engine even has them. The last time I tested the engine in the water, it ran fine at WOT for about 10 mins, then back to limp mode it goes. I'm going to put it back in the water soon now that I've replaced the cylinder gaskets and see if it is still going into limp mode.
I can't understand why it does fine for a few minutes then acts like its overheating and going into limp mode. It has a brand new impeller. Getting a strong flowing telltale.
I have an 04 2 stroke. The low oil alarm goes off when I trim the motor. Up or down slow or wide open. I shut it off restart and it runs fine until I use the trim again ( while in gear).
Sounds like you may have a faulty wire/harness somewhere. Try cleaning all your grounds terminals as well as the locations the grounds attach to the engine block. Also look to see if you find any bare wires or wires jacket is scuffed or exposed that could be shorting out.
Great video, I have a 1998 2 stroke Saltwater Series II, every time you go 4k rpms or over the alarm goes off. I you keep it under it will work just fine. What can it be?? Thanks 🙏
I would be thinking two things here.
Over heating
Oil not filling fast enough.
For over heating one way to check is on your gauge, if it’s digital you should get a blinking notification. You can also check by using a heat IR gun pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
Reasons why she’s overheating are failing thermostats, worn out impeller or build up of scale in your passages.
If the issue is oil related when the alarm sounds, bring boat to a stop. quickly remove the cowing and check the oil level in the oil reservoir. If it’s at the low mark then your inline filter at the aux tank is clogged and the oil can’t fill fast enough to meet the demand at high RPMs.
I have a video on replacing that filter on my channel
Please write back if you figure it out. Or have more questions 👍🏽👍🏽
I have an VMAX OX66 2002VX-TLRA so I'm finding your channel VERY HELPFUL!! I had the helm alarm beep at WOT last week and the engine shut down. I waited a few minutes then ran back to the ramp at 3/4 throttle w/o any repeat. I don't think it's an overheat or fuel issue. No wires on clear fuel bowl so not a water in fuel warning. I saw another video pointing out there's a filter very near the 2 cycle oil reservoir tank. The parts manual describes this oil line part it as a "strainer". I think it might not be allowing enough oil to flow in higher RPM. I'll change it out and hopefull that problem will be solved.
I have a completely different question. Hope you can help.
My engine starts with a bump of the key and generally runs / idles smoothly. But it smokes excessively especially at idle. Any suggestions on where to look or what parts to swap ? Or causes ? I see no leaks or oil anywhere. (assume all the rings and compression fine as this engine has only 300 hours on it and I've run ring free with every fill up)
I haven't changed the VST filter or fuel filter but have that on the list now. It seems like fuel filters would not cause excessive smoking but IDK.
Glad you have found the videos helpful! Thank you for the support.
Now for these engines it is pretty normal to be smoky at first start for a minute or two while she warms up. In colder climates it might smoke abit more. Perfectly normal for two strokes.
If you are smoking out the entire marina and it doesn’t stop maybe it’s an over piling issue. If the oiling system is still being used, it could be that your oiling arm is in full oiling. This happens if the clips on the oiling arm break to save the engine. Or simply may have fallen out of place.
If you look at one of my videos called “how to remove the carbs off a Yamaha outboard” fairly newish video it shows me un clipping the oiling arm. (This will show you were to look) the plastic clips are notorious for breaking.
Just keep in mind if the oiling arm is in place.. smoke is technically not a bad thing as it means everything is being lubricated
@@ReelTeaseFishing Thank you. I will check the video. Since I am pulling the reservoir tank I think I will go ahead and replace the oil pump as well since it's so critical to the engine. I am hoping the oil arm clip is just off and putting it back will help with the excessive smoking. Once I get all the parts replaced including the VST and main fuel filter I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks again !!
@ReelTeaseFishing Checked your video. My engine is HPDI, not carb based but I will look for any similar arm and see if anything looks out of place or any clip fell into the bottom area. HPDI has an oil arm I think. Never been adjusted or touched. The engine is a 2002. She might just tend to smoke more in old age :) But great point at least to clearly "see" the oil is going into the cylinders
@@caseysaunders2137 hopefully it’s that. But great idea on doing the preventative maintenance on the oiling pump and get that little white filter while your at it. (I think you did it but not sure)
Your oiling arm is in the same general area. You can’t miss it as it’s connected to the oiling pump (has a bunch of tiny hoses coming out of it.) it’s under the VST area if I remember correctly on the HPDI.
@@ReelTeaseFishing All parts are on order. I work full time so will start the work hopefully next weekend. I expect I'll need 2 days. One for the oil reservoir and another for the fuel / VST filter. I'll definitely close the loop with you and let you know the results. I really appreciate you so much for the guidance !!
I have a 2009 Yamaha 150 2 stroke that isn’t getting oil under the cowling but has oil in the aux tank. Any idea on why the oil wouldn’t be going to the tank?
Three things to consider:
Oil pump died, clogged in-line filter (found on aux tank by oil pump) and lastly corrosion in the wiring.
I have videos on how to replace oil pump and the filter
Hey do you know what It could be other then the three things checked for the same alarm? I have changed the the whole oil system (it was bad beforehand), and I have changed the impeller. I have also checked the for water in fuel. The problem started after I changed the ignition switch and throttle because they went bad and the engine didn’t want to even crank. Now that I got the engine running again I am getting the same alarm as soon as I turn the key to the on position. The engine is a s150trxu from 1996. Got any idea of what it could be or what I should check?
If it happen after switching the key switch or harness I would make sure that it’s wired correctly. Sounds like either the killswitch is the main issue or the buzzer is being grounded.
@@ReelTeaseFishing hey, thanks for your help. So I have checked the connections and also tested the kill switch to see if it’s bad (it was good). I was looking around and saw that the terminal assy that takes power to the solenoids on the engine was melted. I bought the boat like a month ago and never saw it until now. Do you think that has to do with the alarm going off? Got any other idea what it might be?
@@LeandroRodriguez-qp7cm Leo that is a great find. Me Not being able to see it, it’s hard to say but any deformation/melting etc of the selonoid is a definitive issue. I can almost guarantee that this is causing your key switch buzzer to go off. I think the selonoid has grounded itself, thus a ground in the system causing the buzzer to sound.
The buzzer on the outboard key switches are very simple pieces. When the oil system, or overheat system is triggered it just sends a ground back to the buzzer so it can alert the operator. Basically when the key is on, the hot side of the buzzer is always hot. It just waits for a ground to “buzz”. In this case I believe you have a faulty selonoid sending a ground back to the buzzer.
2003 Yamaha 150 v max 2 stroke question when cruising at 20 mph boat run good but when I get up to 40 mph for about 5 min the alarm comes on. I think the oil tank is not fill the oil tank on the motor fast enough. I clean the main tank and changed filter. Could the oil lines be clogging and not letting oil fill the tank on the motor. What are your thoughts.
Do you have a digital gauge? If so when the alarm goes off what is blinking on the gauge.
The oil not filling fast enough is a common problem when the oil in-line filter on the aux tank is clogged. However if you cleaned oil and changed filter I doubt it’s oil related.
The oil lines could be kinked causing flow restriction. Check for that.
At high RPM are you sure it’s not overheating?
my mechanic just told me the float switch calls for oil from the aux tank. I got an alarm with the oil level on the lower line. he told me to get a new float switch. could it be a failed remote tank pump?
It can definitely be a problem with the Aux tank. If it’s low on the engine tank then the alarm is doing it’s job to let you know something’s wrong and it isn’t filling. Look at this video and skip to the end where I show how to test the pump and use the manual override to get oil to flow.
Yamaha 2 Stroke Oil Pump Replacement DIY
ua-cam.com/video/dI2woc-Sfp8/v-deo.html
Could it be my feul/water separator filter? We took it off and it had a bunch of dirt/sand.
I’m not sure what your experiencing but if you have sand in the fuel bowl I’d get your fuel tank polished. Usually this “Sand” is from your aluminum tank corroding. It’s very common especially with ethanol laced fuel. Id also recommend changing your filters, cleaning your VST, and injectors
Hi there from New Zealand. I have a 1989 Yamaha 90hp it only has the oil tank on side of the motor. When I turn key to on position yellow oil light comes on. It will start and run fine until we put the boat in the water and it comes under load at just over 2000rpm then we get red light and constant buzzer. Any suggestions would be much appreciated please, cheers
Yellow light means add oil.
Red light means: oil has not been added,
Engine will go into conservation mode to conserve oil at 2000rpm. Buzzer will sound.
You need to add oil, if you have the oil tank full, I would look at your float valve in the oil tank. It’s either stuck or not working properly. Making it think there’s no oil.
Ok mate I will check that out as have had plenty of oil in the tank thankyou 👍👌
Hey bud hopefully you can guide me on this
98 Yamaha v max
Changed impeller, new thermostats, it is peeing water but yet water is not hot from pee hope and keeps the alarm going going off any ideas
@@MrVela05 your outboard has two thermo switches/sensors. Usually located on the top rear portion of each head. These can certainly fail. By disconnecting one at a time when running on the hose you can distinguish which side is causing the alarm. If both are sounding off then you may well be overheating. Best to check with an IR Thermal Gun. Cheap at Harbor Freight
Back to the sensor if it’s only one that’s sounding the alarm swap the sensors and see if the sensor that trips moves sides. If it’s the same bank sounding the alarm then you may have that side inadequately cooling. This is caused by restriction in the cooling passages. If the alarm follows the same sensor then that sensor has probably failed and will need to order a new one. .
@@MrVela05 also if it’s overheating at idle it may also be your poppet valve. I have a video on my channel changing it on a Yamaha along with a video on using a wooden dowel to make the job easier. Check em out.
I have a 1990 Yamaha 50 that only sounds the alarm when I’m idling in neutral or in gear. If I bump the throttle just a touch the alarm doesn’t go off. Anyone know what this could be?
Sounds to me like your poppet valve, but may also be a failing water pump (impeller)
How about the pump on the boat oil tank. I have a brown positive but the blue which I believe is negative, I also get a positive reading. Help!
Blue wire is grounded by ECU
Is the tank filled with oil?
It is grounded by either the CDI or the toggle switch. The CDI grounds the blue wire only when the main oil tank sensor asks for oil to be transferred and if the remote tank says there is sufficient oil for transfer. The toggle switch of course grounds the blue wire when the switch is depressed by the operator.
Follow the harness all the way back to the key and make sure that the wiring harness is all hooked up correctly. Especially if it’s been spliced
Ok. Everything works perfectly when I open the switch for the first time. Once oil level drops I no longer get ground on blue wire. So I have to reset the system. Here's what I discovered, with brown wire (+) connected to the pump, I get positive reading on the negative wire coming out of the pump. I don't think this should be happening. So I'm guessing, the positive feed back to the CDI through the negative blue wire is faulting the CDI. I'm almost sure I should be getting + back out of the pump, on the ground side.
Hi, I have a 200 hp hpdi VMAX. I have the buzzer going off and engine not starting. It's weird. It started at the house and the ramp and then just died and never started again at the ramp. Both oil reservoirs are full. Computer program doesn't get a signal to tell me what's going on. It says connection error. I just drained the fuel filter. I must say I also have no on/off switch and my motor has power going to it daily. The key switch is new. All filters have been changed but the mystery filters. I cleaned the 02 sensor and changed the plugs. I had the same problem a while back and it was the ecm fuse. I checked that again. Buzzer just keeps ringing. I don't know what maintenance mode is. Engine feels like no spark, no fuel. Any suggestions? I never did poppet valves.
If you get a steady alarm before you start the engine I have a high suspicion it’s going to be in your key. Do you have a kill switch? Is the kill switch plugged in? Have you tested your killswitch?
The three alarms in this video are usually triggered once the engine starts. A steady alarm when key is turned is usually your kill switch or in the key itself
Yes, I have a Yamaha lanyard kill switch. You want me to look for a short or something? Tell me please and I'll check it out. I was thinking maybe computer finally took a dump because as you recall, I had no on/off switch so it was always with power. Yamaha software is not working because it's not talking to the computer. What do I check for maintenace mode? I never heard of that. Yes, I have a loud buzzer as soon as you click the key one to the right. No fuel out of vst nossle.
@@paulcunningham6353 make sure the kill switch lanyard is in place.
I’d check the kill witch with a multi meter and make sure it works continuity when it’s engaged and when it’s not engaged by the lanyard.
@@paulcunningham6353 the maintenance mode refers to the round or newer digital gauges. Basically it will do a series of beep to alert the owner that the engine is due for maintenance. It does not prevent the engine from starting. (It’s a maintenance reminder that’s all)
To me it sounds like it’s your kill switch. Killswitch failure creates a loud beep as soon as you turn the key. It also does not send spark to the spark plugs. Does not activate the fuel pumps.
Make sure all connections at the killswitch and at the key are clean and tight
Hi, I have a 2003 v max 200hp. My alarm went off yesterday again. Last month it was my over heat sensor called by a bad Impeller.
Yesterday it went off after 20 mins of running. My main oil tank was full. After, I took off the engine cover, The oil inside engine was a about a quarter of the way full. I couldn’t test it because everytime I turned the key the alarm would go off. I have a small filter red plastic oil filter under the reserver inside engine. It was pretty empty. Could it also be the water separator ?
What should I check next? Thanks
If the on board oil tank (on motor) was a quarter full I think you aren’t transferring enough oil from aux tank to engine tank.
This happens for three reason
Oil filter on aux tank is clogged. And it can’t keep up with oil consumption when underway.
Oil pump has failed and needs replaced
Or the harness from aux tank to outboard is corroded and not sending the signals.
I’d check in that order. We have videos on how to change oil filter and pump
@@ReelTeaseFishing thank you . Now, that’s for a 2 stroke 200hp
@@anthonymannarino3376 my apologies I assumed two stroke.
Check oil level. If low I’d do a complete oil change and top off to correct level. Inspect the oil that you drain.
Does your fuel filter have wires attached to it? If it does it could be sensing water in the fuel bowl.
I have a 2006 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. I am not sure if the overheat warning buzzer is working. How do I test it? I know it works with the low oil.
To test the thermal sensors (located on upper portion of each head)
With key on engine off, unplug the two boot connectors and connect them to each other (wire side, not thermal sensor) if alarm buzzes all is good to the key.
To test the thermal sensor itself you need to check it with a multimeter to specs provided in the manual.
However the majority of times that these sensors fail they short/ground themselves out and this will cause the alarm to buzz
@@ReelTeaseFishing, I crossed the black and pink wires and the alarm sounded. So I know the wiring is good.
Fuel in the Water? Lmao. Thank you very much for the video now how about the 4-stroke 150 Yamaha engine alarm engine light on the helm gauge display and alarm which turns off after a few minutes. What do you think it could be my friend? Send me a video if you can
I can’t honestly say as I can’t make out what’s happening. On your gauge is there a symbol blinking?
Is alarm on as soon as you turn the key? Or when the engine starts? I’d need more detail
Also you will get an alarm for maintenance. Make sure you reset your maintenance alarm or you will get it everytime you startup your outboard.
@@ReelTeaseFishing and how do you reset the maintenance alarm?
@@dcrican762 I need to know what model gauges you have.
i have a 91 yamaha 130. as soon as i turn the key i have an alarm, i am at a stand still. Any ideas?
Check your kill switch. (Unplug and plug back in) a failed kill switch will give you an alarm as soon as you turn the key.
A shorted out thermal sensor will do the same. You can unplug them at the head of the engine and see if alarm stops.
Lastly it could be your oil sensor in your aux tank or the engine tank. Try unplugging the oil harness see if anything changes
Question: when I turn key on position the alarm comes on. When I start it the alarm comes on right away it starts and it pissing water. Could it be my oil sensor, the oil was full. I took it out with key on and turned it up side down to simulate it was full and alarm was still on. Can it be a water pressure sensor ?
New water pump, new thermostat, new poppet valve. I don’t know if I have a water pressure sensor
Does alarm turn on when you turn key to in and engine is off?
If so you may have a bad oil sensor in your outboard oil tank
@@ReelTeaseFishing yes, I will replace it thank you. I will update you once I replaced it
@@carlospadilla9576 try un clipping it and see if the alarm turns off
Will do. If it stops then it is the sensor correct. I am going to check if it has any oms
Hi there. I have a 1991 Yamaha 90TLRP. It doesn't have an oil reservoir or anything. I have replaced the thermostat, the thermo switch and the impeller. Still, the buzzer goes off. Water is going through the motor as I can see it coming out. Seems to be happening at higher rpm's. Use to happen ( about a good 5 trips in a row) at about 7 mph after a couple minutes. If I kept it at 5 mph it wouldn't do it. Last time it happened at about 17 mph after about 15 minutes. Once it goes off it doesn't stop even if I turn the ignition off and back on. Only disconnecting the pink wire on the thermo switch stopped it last time. What do you recommend I do?
If it shuts off when you pull the wire on the thermo then your issue is the engine is overheating.
I’d really look into replacing your impeller. I think that would solve your buzzer issue.
Please let me know if it fixes it or not
@@ReelTeaseFishing Impeller was replaced recently and not many hours on it since then. Maybe not even an hour. The only thing I haven't done is opening the cylinder head to clean in there. I don't remember it going off before I replaced the thermo switch though.
@@adrianadeleon862 it is non uncommon to have a faulty impeller due to two common issues. Impeller installed in the wrong direction. Impeller key not installed or fell out of place during install. The fact that you are getting an overheat at higher speed suggest improper water flow to the heads.
The last thing I’d do is take off the water jackets/heads as the possibility of snapping bolts are very high.
@@ReelTeaseFishing even if I have good water flow? Adriana is my spouse.
@@christianrosado8586 hard to tell honestly. But if you truly suspect you have good water pressure at speed and you’ve changed thermos then a descale is in order.
I just hate the thought of taking heads off a 30 year outboard. But sometimes that’s all you can do if nothing remedies it.
Have you tried running your outboard in a tank with barnacle buster, limeaway or a few gallons of vinegar mix in? This runs it through the engine and can dissolve some of the scale built up in the passages. I’d run the engine for 10 minutes shut it down for 30 minutes then run again for 10 minutes etc for a few cycles. If that doesn’t help it may be time to remove the heads to scrape out the water passages.
You can also premix your fuel for peace of mind.
Yes you definitely can go this route.
You’d have to bypass the alarms, pumps and tubing. I’d recommend this on everything but the Yamahas as Yamaha has one of the best oiling systems for 2 stroke outboards.
I have had this alarm sounding on my 40hp yamaha.This was caused by the battery being connected 24/7. So i made a switch between the battery and the engine.Problem solved!
I would suspect it to be a low battery or low voltage alarm. The switch allows the battery to stay charged when not in use. 👍🏽
Thank you for the added input, could help another boater facing a similar situation
I have a 2004 200hp 2 stroke motor that seems to have an overheating problem. After 4200rpm alarm comes on. Engine peeing strongly water is cool, heads are not hot to touch. Changed poppet valves, thermostat , heat sensor, impeller and check head passage way (not clog). Of note I disconnected the sensor and ran at 500 rpm for about 10 mins and touch heads and it was not hot. What's my next step to get rid of this problem.
IR gun to get an accurate reading on both sides of the engine. See if you find a hot spot.
If the temps come back within operating temps. I’d start tracking down the temp sensor wires for fraying, corrosion etc. Also check & clean grounds.
The Infrared Gun will show you high temps in areas that may be blocked by accumulations of sediment and corrosion in the water passages.
Lastly are you sure it’s heat and not oil warming?
Next time it goes off take cowing off quickly and look at your mounted oil tank on outboard and inspect if it’s full.
Thanks for your response. Guess I will have to get a IR gun to check accurate temps and not rely on my hand touch. I don't have the VRO system. I mix the oil in the gas
I will check the harness for frayed wires and proper grounding.
Of note where I said I ran at 500 rpm with sensors disconnected that should have been 5000rpm for 10 mins*
Also make sure you’re kill switch is working and connected….just made that mistake
What was the mistake?
I want to buy Yamaha 2 stroke 200 hp. If it is available pls let me know
I don’t sell engines, but thank you for watching and showing interest
@@ReelTeaseFishing but do you any one in your area that sells it ?
@@ndiepmbeng5640 contact Stictly Yamaha in Miami,FL
@@ReelTeaseFishing ok thanks
Well I've done everything but the poppet valve, so that's next. New oil pump, new impeller, new thermostats...very frustrating as every time I think it's fixed....alarm. It's alarming within 5 min on the water.
Do you have digital Yamaha gauges?
@@ReelTeaseFishing yes.
@@williamchalmers347 when the alarm goes off does it say it’s temp related?
Something on the gauge should be blinking simultaneous with the alarm
I'll have to recreate the alarm. I didn't really look at the gauges as they are difficult to see in the sun.
@@ReelTeaseFishing
I have problem Yamaha 0x66 don’t pass 4200 rpm
Check your low pressure fuel pumps.
4200 rpms is not the engine in safe mode. I’d check for fouled plugs, fuel pumps, filters etc
@@ReelTeaseFishing buenos días yo le cambié la bomba de gasolina le
Puse bujías nuevas la compresión 120 a cada pistón nuevos inition coil le ise la propeller
@@ReelTeaseFishing you live close I will take you you can fix it for me
@@leodanescalona9417 I am not doing any mechanic/boat jobs at the moment. I can help you trouble shoot and hopefully find the issue.
@@leodanescalona9417
Great, I think the issue will be something fuel related. Possibly a fuel restriction.
The gas lines from tank to motor if it’s old could be collapsing/failing. If you can please connect the outboard to a portable tank with new fuel and new gas lines. If this solves your issue then work from the motor back. If the problem continues then it’s at the motor and we can eliminate tank, fuel, fuel lines, vents, spin on etc.
You mean water un the fuel ? 🤔🤔
Yes sir. You caught it lol
@@ReelTeaseFishing i understand the message 👍👍
Go tio
😘😘✌️
Also make sure you’re kill switch is working and connected….just made that mistake
Yes a killswitch is definitely one of those that will have you chasing your tail. Totally forgot to add that to the video. Thank you!!
@@ReelTeaseFishing could a faulty kill switch give you a buzzer at the switch too?
@@mikesolns1364 yes it can. The usual sign of a disconnected kill switch is a buzzard the second you turn the key to the on position.