FYI on the Simple Green. We use that on submarines when cleaning because it has no atmosphere contaminants or other contaminants that can cause the crew any health issues in enclosed spaces (like a submarine under water) for months on end. We also use ISP for some specific equipment cleaning...but we only use metal containers because the alcohol can break down the plastic from a container and suspend it in the solution and you end up coating the material your trying to clean with a microscopic film of plastic...which can build up over time and end up ruining some very expensive items.
The only polymers that can by partly dissolved by alcohols are ABS, CAB and Acrylic. PE-HD, in which 99.9999% of alcohol is stored doesn't dissolve any polymer for many years.
Also with simple green is that it is crazy potent. You can dilute that stuff a lot before it stops being effective. And you can buy larger containers than that for about the same price.
Thank you for testing! If you want to reuse your cleaners put them into your curing station. After a few minutes all the liquid resin in the cleaner will solidify and sinks to the bottom of the bottle. Tested it with IPA. Have an nice day!
Coffee filters are commonly 20 microns as well and they will remove a lot of the "powdered" material from the Ipa. Grab a few two liter bottles or 3D print some funnels and you can rather quickly assemble a 3 stage IPA filter/recycling system. @@UncleJessy
Ha! I should read more before I leave a comment. I just asked about that. That's how we do it at work too, but have fancy filters there which are hard to duplicate at home.
Robert Allen Payne did you guys buy them or make them yourself at work? At my job we have SLA and DLP printers and I made a really ghetto system that seems to work to an extent. I basically wait for the alcohol to settle and the resin to sit at the bottom. Then I filter the alcohol with some strainers with a paper mesh to cover the surface. I do this on top of a brida filter but we print so much that we clogged it right away
For those here for the IPA shortage, look into Purple Power as well. I use it. Doesn't have the weird minty/licorice smell that Simple Green does. I also use it to clean the build plate and the resin tank after prints. Scrape out the resin, spray the plate and reservoir and wipe. I also use a foaming ammonia free glass cleaner to clean off the build plate and FEP. I'm trying to get away from IPA because of the harsh smell and scarcity.
Hello Jessy...just so I get this right, do you clean these files straight from the print? or Do you give it a first clean with straight IPA then put it into the Ultrasonic cleaner? Thank You ... I'm new and just getting started with resin printing :)
Hi there! I have IPA or denatured alcohol in a spray bottle that I spray onto my larger prints before I run them through the ultra sonic cleaner. If you have a smaller resin printer you can grab a wash and cure unit from elegoo or Anycubic and just use ipa if it’s easier
@@UncleJessy ...Hi Jessy, wow, thanks for the quick response, I recently bought an Elegoo Mars 2, today I bought a 3L Ultrasonic cleaner. My reason for resin printing is I'd like to start printing model train parts and shells. I know a few fells that just use two washes in 99% IPA. What caught my eye was the great cleaning the US cleaner does. I was thinking to dip the print into the first was then put into the US cleaner with the MeanGreen which I can buy locally.
Yup. Just ordered my printer, can't find ISO anywhere. I did find Simple Green - I got 344 oz (2 gal, 88 oz.) for $19.06 and free shipping. That should last a while. (I hope)
@@broderp if your prints are small you can fill a smaller beaker with your cleaner, then put water in your bath and stand the beaker in the water - the water is needed to help the vibrations transfer to the beaker :)
Does you know if it has to be that specific mr clean product? I can only find multipurpose mr clean but the antibacterial he is using is nowhere to be found.
@@AquaticSCP dishwasher water is far too hot and will likely melt and warp your prints though. Not to mention that you would need to be using a water washable resin and also risk contaminating anything else you put in the machine with it.
Hate to say it, but I wish you'd have done the tests on translucent resin. That way you could compare the fogging and discoloration effects of the cleaners :\
Thanks so much for these videos - I'm just about to plug in my first 3D printer, have gotten lots of tips from veteran 3D print folk, and I'm already a little overwhelmed - it's SO helpful to see the process in action along with the possible choices and results! You've saved me a ton of time and I haven't even started yet - MUCH appreciated!!!
Hey its Michael Pavlovich! The zbrush mentor to us all lol. Funny place to tell ya, but as a professional 3D artist, I still go to your videos regularly for help. Thanks for all the help man! To all the folks reading this, if you wanna learn zbrush, this the man right here!
Beware this video. Now two years later if you check the threads on Reddit you will see about 80% of the people that tried this had terrible results and went back to IPA. The only way it seems to work at all is if you use it in an ultrasonic cleaner heated to 50C. Also, in every recent video I've seen from Uncle Jesse, he's using IPA.
RZ masks do not filter vapors, just particulates and are providing you very limited protection from any resin or cleaning agent fumes. Something like a 3M respirator rated for organic vapors would be recommended.
When I bought my first resin printer, in the box I found a surgical mask. And the instructions said to make sure to wear the mask when working with the resin. Straight up! A surgical mask. When I go to the doctor they have a sign as you come into the waiting room. It says, “If you have a cold, the flu, or some other issue that causes you to cough or sneeze, then please take and wear a mask for the health of other patients and our staff.” They provide that same surgical mask that was shipped with my printer. I asked the doctor about it. And she told me that those types of masks ONLY stop germs from the people WEARING the mask. Anything floating in the air already will simply take the path of least resistance AROUND the mask and into your nose, mouth and lungs. So all these folks you see wearing these masks at airports are not protecting themselves. And if they aren’t able to protect themselves from germs, that mask SURE won’t protect them from VOCs and HAPs. If you are concerned about the fumes, then read the SDS and take appropriate action. The CDC states, “Respirators should only be used when engineering control systems are not feasible. Engineering control systems, such as adequate ventilation or scrubbing of contaminants, are the preferred control methods for reducing worker exposures.” So honestly, if you are worried about your health, don’t use resin printers unless you are willing to put in forced air ventilation. It’s what I did. It was easy. And pretty cheap. And now I’m fume free and don’t need to worry about respirators.
Partially correct. RZ Mask makes organic vapor filters for the their masks. You can either have masks that only filter particulates, or particulates and organic vapors/paints/solvents, etc. I own both types of mask RZ as well as dual cartridge respirators (3M style), and I find the RZ mask with the vapor filter to be the easiest to use, but if I'm going to do something prolonged and nasty I'll get out the dual cartridge respirator as I feel it is slightly more secure and filters better overall.
Great job! Also, the Mean Green can be picked up at your local Dollar Tree for you guessed it! A BUCK! Also.. nice to see you guys using my pickle container idea! ;)
@@truantray true, but he says 'isopropanol alcohol' while the bottle is sitting there and clearly says 'Isopropyl alcohol' and it's driving me up the wall.
I’ve noticed a lot of YT hosts say it that way. Always wonder why when it clearly says different on the bottle. Maybe their science teachers in high school learned to say it that way in a different time?
I know this is an old video but that makes my question perfect. So after almost 2 years is Mean Green still your go to cleaner? Or are you using something else by now. I am waiting on delivery of my first resin printer. The Anycubic Photon Mono. Thanks
If the chemical bottle is not clearly marked then you use the hand wave smell method. None of the chemical cleaners used in this video are dangerous and in fact, simple green is non toxic.
Great videos as always Jessy. If I can please make a request: please please please demonstrate the use of a proper respirator that filters fumes. What you’re using doesn’t have cartridge filters which is essential for safety. As someone who was hospitalized for breathing in bad stuff, I learned my lesson the hard way. Use a Niosh approved respirator with 6001 cartridge filters. These are regulated and proven to filter out harmful chemicals. As a fellow maker, I’m seeing lots of tutorial videos on UA-cam where safety isn’t always promoted. Lots of kids are watching, let’s do our part to keep them safe! Thanks for all your hard work and videos, they are amazing! Keep on making!!
Panda Props & Costumes This is great advice 👍 The dust particle mask could even make fume inhalation worse as you end up breathing harder through the mask. Organic vapour filters will prevent the hallucinations 🤪
I’m curious if the effectiveness of the clean would change if you had used a more contemporary cleaning machine like the Creality wash and cure station or any of the equivalents that instead of being ultrasonic actually just have a magnetically driven fan to stir the cleaning solution
@@truantray IPA is known to almost immediately cloud clear resins with a bit of a frosted appearance. This is right after they're in the IPA, even before they're cured, so it is unrelated to being completely dried. This is why I use ResinAway but I'm here to see if there were cheaper options that worked just as well as ResinAway.
I use ultrasonic cleaners a lot and I have found clothes' detergent in liquid form is superb for cleaning in those machines ( a liitle detergent goes a log way do not use it 100% strength) . Better than orange chizel, simple green and other de-greasers. Also, you do not have to fill the whole tub with the cleaner. Fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water and put the product in a plastic tub filled to the same depth as the water in the cleaner. There is no difference.
Some people say Mean Green leaves a tacky feeling on the print and needs a second wash to eliminate the tackiness, would you say that's true? It's only been a few people, but I'm curious.
Please don't use flammable liquids in an ultrasonic cleaner unless you know what you are doing. If you want to use flammable liquids such as IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner you would want to do it in a blast proof cleaner. Additionally you would want to make sure you have a high quality ultrasonic cleaner, not a cheap one. I won't pretend to act like I'm the end all, be all of ultrasonic cleaners. However I do some work repairing computers and one of the cleaning methods many places use is a ultrasonic cleaner for logic boards. I have not purchased one, but from my research it is possible to get away with using flammable liquids inside of them, but the issue comes when it fails, because then you can expect something catastrophic. No I am not exaggerating, just look up some videos of when small amounts of IPA come in contact with fire. I don't know if any of the other solvents used in this video are non-flammable, but hopefully they are. I felt like I needed to say this as people could get seriously hurt, hopefully this would at least prompt some people to just do a little bit of research regarding this.
Probably not with the resin he used. He didn’t use a water washable resin so parts would be damaged. If you are gonna go out of your way to get water washable resin, then just clean with water. No chems involved.
It need to be pointed out these DO NOT work without a ultrasonic cleaner. I had the simple pickle dunking stations that worked fine for IPA but I got the one you suggested, mean green, and it did not work in my dunking station. Not only did it not get my print clean but it would foam really bad. I got an ultra sonic cleaner and now it works great! I can't remember if you said this or not in the video. I watched it but might have missed it, just throwing it out there. . .
So now Rust-oleum not just selling the best filler/primer for fdm prints, but the best resin cleaner too. They can begin to think about a 3Dprinting sub-brand! :D
I know this is an older video but I have used Mean Green for the last 3+ years.. It was $5 for a gallon at walmart here but is now $6.12/gal.. I usually buy online and pick it up. It's not dangerous to your health and smells much better than alcohol. btw, long time follower, Jessy!
Interesting video. You don't know how happy I was to see you address the respiratory issues with resins as I think that is a far bigger issue than the resin itself. I am a polymer chemist so I may be a bit jaded, but methacrylates are noxious and it takes far less of a substance to affect you through smell(in most cases) than it does through skin contact. But on that note, make sure you are using a F1 or F3 filter as those are designed to handle chemical and organic vapors as well as dust and fine particulates. I would also wipe down any and everything you work with while wearing gloves with one of the alternative cleaning solutions you tested(or IPA) to avoid any chance for potential cross contamination. Excellent video and I will probably move to any of those non-IPA cleaners, especially if you are going to use an ultrasonic bath as they are mostly water with 'soap' so there should be no chance of any vapors igniting anything anywhere.
Glad I found this video, I was wondering if there were alternatives to IPA. I am just starting with 3D resin printing (I already have an Ender-3) and am collecting supplies while waiting for my Anycubic Photon to arrive. Also, if you spill a cleaning product are you really making a mess?
What?! Still no black gloves? haha, just kidding! Great video as always. That ultrasonic cleaner looks great, albeit a bit too expensive for me. Is the lid on it sealed? Can you leave, lets say, IPA in it for later use? Guess I'll have to wait for the review video :)
Just an FYI out there for everyone. I used to use Simple Green to clean the rinse tanks of photo printers and developed a sensitivity to it. If anyone starts getting a scratchy throat, runny nose or eyes watering. Get to fresh air asap. If it comes back when you go back in the room find a new cleaner. I got so I can't even give the stuff one spray trigger w/o having a coughing fit. Hope it doesn't happen to anyone, cause it sucks. It was my favorite cleaner for many years. Happy printing ppl!😁
This is super interesting! Thanks for posting this test! User safety/toxicity of the cleaners in large quantities is probably the biggest trade-off I see with regards to using these as an IPA alternative, but the fact that the degreaser resulted in the cleanest prints is very interesting! I wonder how ethanol would work... maybe you could try scotch, vodka, and rum next! :P
How does this stack up 2 years later with non-ultrasonic washing stations? Tempted to switch to mean green or even the mr clean for Mercury X. Easy to get at local small town Canadian Tire store and as you mentioned in the video less toxic fumes.
Hey hey, I use IPA to clean almost all of my prints, or IPA in a spray bottle for really large prints. This method still works but doesn’t clean as good as IPA
If this ever gets revised or revisited, Remember to mention that cleaners will Eat away at the spinner in the Wash and cure stations! was wondering why there was black bits floating around and i discovered that it completely dissolved the Rubber and the Blue protective coating on the spinner in the bottom of the container!
I wonder how well these work in the Mercury Plus and similar cleaning stations. Sonic cleaners are a bit of a different animal. But hey, I've one of each that I can experiment with. I'll post my findings later.
So whats 2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)ethanol which is in «Mean green» and which products can replace it(«Mean green» not available in Norway) or is jus IPA/iso just the easiest, and does it have to be above 90% isopropyl? www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/mean-green/hard-surface-cleaner/super-strength-multi-purpose
I'm going for the most environmental combo - Simple Green with Anycubic's soy-based resin. I live in the mountains of Central Oregon and during the winter, my options for ventilating my heated garage are minimal. I will post a video after I have done some testing with this combo.
Speaking of potential electrical explosion - I've heard that ISO you shouldn't put into sonic cleaners directly - and should bag it in a ziplock back with the part inside - and use water in the sonic cleaner to prevent explosion because of the chemical. Out of the rest of the cleaners you suggested, what are the dangers of using directly into a sonic cleaner (if by chance there was an electrical discharge or malfunction)
Usually more dangerous on larger scales but yeah IPA In a ultrasonic could be dangerous like any chemical that gives off flammable vapors. Keep open flames away from the flammable chemicals and don't leave it running long.
Thank you so much! I’m just getting into resin printing and I’ve seen all these vids about how you’re gonna have to spend 200 on gallons of IPA. I’ll be sure to get some mean green and try it out
Uncle Jessy, how do you dispose of the Mean Green solution when it gets dirty. And how often do you recommend changing it out? With the IPA, I would just pour it into a clear container and let it solidify in the sun. Then when thoroughly cured into a blob of "cheese", I'd let it dry out take to my waste disposal center. Same thing with the Mean Green?
You've a money saver. With this virus you can't find alcohol anywhere. Thank you for this. Saved me from wasting over 100$ to people taking advantage of the lack of product to take as much money as they can from people.
Hey man this really help me found a bottle of simple green at sam’s Club concentrated for like $10 makes 48 32oz bottles. Lot cheaper than the $30 I spent for 12 16oz bottles. Thanks!
Different resins respond to Simple/Mean green differently. Siraya Tech seems to work best; which is what Uncle Jessy uses most of the time. Others don't always works so well.
Is that mask rated for organic vapor filtering? If it isn't, then it's not actually doing anything for you to filter resin vapors and fumes. If it makes you feel healthier than fine, but that's just a placebo effect
Elegoo recommends alcohol to be >95% for their resin so maybe that's why you had so bad results with 91%. Still an amazing find, really liked you video.
Thanks for the tips @uncle jessy. I have started using Simple Green for Water washable Resin in a 75% to 25% ratio (75% water, 25% Simple Green) in Anycubic 2in1 Wash and Cure and prints turn out amazingly clean. To clean my print plate and FEB, I am now using same 75% to 25% mixture in a spray bottle… Spray it and wipeout with paper towel, super simple and no mess.
OK, I don't want to be "that guy" but I have to say it... isopropyl is pronounced EYE-SO-PRO-PULL. Without fail you add an extra "n" in isopropyl each time. LOL
Isopropyl alcohol (IUPAC name propan-2-ol; commonly called isopropanol or 2-propanol) is a compound with the chemical formula CH3CHOHCH3. It is a colorless, flammable chemical compound with a strong odor.
You can get a gallon of Mean Green concentrate at Walmart for $4.97. That's probably your biggest bang for the buck. I'm grabbing a couple of gallons today as I'm doing more LCD resin printing than ever before and ISO is not cheap. Great vid with a lot of excellent information!
50% Isopropyl Alcohol also works IF used it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few more minutes. I put my prints and the cleaning solutions in a sealed plastic container with a locking lid and put that in my ultrasonic cleaner with water filling the rest of the vat. This way It never gets dirty, I only change the water once in a while and can keep multiple cleaning solutions in different containers. Like water to rinse the cleaning solution. Also, remember different resins don't all clean the same.
Soooo... look up flammable solvents in sonic cleaner that is not specifically made for flammables... (apparently a hugely expensive upgrade) and I get lots of information saying that the flammable vapor gets atomized into the sonic cleaner tank with the lid on making a very effective BOMB... DONT use IPA in your sonic cleaner they say... also the IPA does not have enough surface tension to function properly in the sonic cleaner. Be your own safety department tho... This is just an FYI
An die Deutschen die gedacht haben "Geil Meister Propper/Allzweckeeiniger". Die Zusammensetzung des Producktes im Video ist anders, dad deutsche Product geht nicht. Was aber 100% wirkt (getested) Frosch Glasreiniger mit Spiritus im Ultraschall Bad. Just Quick Note to the Germans that our Mr. Clean Brand does not work, but another Brand's Window Cleaner with Ethanol, guess it comes down to the Ethanol. Will search for cheap Spiritus next time.
Ich überlege noch ob ich mir ein Ultraschallreiniger oder eine Wash and Cure Station für mein Mono X zulegen soll... Isopropanol ist als 5 Liter gar nicht so teuer... Die Frage, die ich mir noch stelle: werden die Ergebnisse mit dem Ultraschallreiniger und den deutschen Reinigern genauso gut oder besser als herkömmlich mit Isopropanol? Gerade für transparente Drucke oder mit "Abs like" Resin?
I don't think you properly compared the Simple Green. It looks to me like you poured straight from the bottle of Simple Green. I have the same one and it says concentrate on the front, and the back side shows the proper dilution ratios. It states for heavy duty cleaning you should add 1 part water for each 1 part concentrate. And general purpose is 10 to 1. If you also compared dish soap, you wouldn't pour pure Dawn into the ultrasonic cleaner. In my own experience recreating this test, the diluted Simple Green was comparable to the others, while the pure concentrate did a terrible job (as you show here). Also, depending on the amount of dilution, it could be cheaper than $1 per gallon.
Jerzy Sokolowski curious about this too. the benefit of IPA is that it evaporates so no need to clean it off before curing. I would say that all of these cleaners need to be rinsed off before curing. I was just getting used to my anycubic cleaning station when this bloody virus thing happened and. Is no isopropyl left 😔
Great video, Jessy, but product lifetime is another variable to consider. I realize it would make for a much more complicated test, but how many cleaning cycles can you get out of each product and, more importantly, what do you do with the dirty cleaner when it's used up? My hunch is all of them except IPA have to be taken to the recycling center (maybe they can be decanted a few times first, but that takes a lot of time and more cleaner to use while the dirty stuff sits). IPA, on the other hand, can easily be distilled (with a $125 electric water distiller from Amazon) and reused indefinitely (until you run out of it through evaporation), simplifying the cleaning cycle and, possibly, reducing cost.
Thx for the tip, I can’t put into words how I hate ipa! I guess I’ll be getting a sonic cleaner. I’ve listened to other people’s advice with the durp systems they employ to little success. My print have delicate details that can’t handle being put into tub a mixed around with clumsy hands.
Mean Green is indeed the best. I have been using it for years and recommending it for as long. Simple reason is its the only cleaner I could find that contains an ethoxylated or propoxylated alcohol which are the ingredients common to stuff like Resin Away from Monocure, and Yellow Magic 7 (yep, resin away is essentially mean green with a crazy jacked up price) that can be bought at a general store. You can confirm this by obtaining the MSDS from Monocure and Yellow Magic if you would like. It can be bought in gallons for about $8 at hardware stores depending where you live. It will also last forever minus evaporation due to the fact you can cure the resin out of it. However it WILL discolor your print if left in too long. As far as alcohols go, you should be using denatured alcohol (ethanol, which is methylated to prevent drinking), also known as methylated spirits across the pond. I really dont know why isopropanol became a thing for rinsing prints. Ethanol, which is in fact the alcohol recommended by most resin manufacturers, works far better, does not cloud prints nearly as bad, and is MUCH cheaper at around $11/gal. I am going to assume when people read alcohol they assumed it meant isopropanol, and it just became the norm, which was in fact mis-information. Some do just state alcohol without specifying ethanol, but most do state ethanol. Isopropanol does work, but is not as effective, and clouds the prints due to having a water content that is absorbed into the surface on top of the amount of etching that takes place. Also, do not use alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner. Flammable vapors can be produced potentially causing a really bad day.
Mr Clean is just “Meister Propper” in Germany. I’m pretty sure it’s available throughout Europe under various names. Just look for the P&G all purpose cleaner.
Anyone else using mean green have trouble getting the mean green itself off of prints? I've tried it full strength, diluted, etc and no matter what I can't get the mean green suds to wash off completely. I've washed prints in 2 or 3 containers of fresh water, in rubbing alcohol, even in distilled water. They still have soap suds coating them that ruins the print quality.
Oh wow I don’t think I’ve run into that. I should have an update to this video up in the next day or so with some other alternatives that might work better for you
That´s what I tought. I just try to make a buy dicision on a supersonic cleaner on amazon, man that is hard! It said you should not use ignitable Liquids
Fire risk isn’t from heating, its from when people leave IPA in the cleaner with the lid closed. The IPA evaporates until it reaches vapor pressure, and when you turn the ultrasonic back on if any part of the electronics sparks on power on it could ignite the vapors. Just don’t leave it in the cleaner - or at least leave door open for awhile before turning cleaner on again.
It amazes me how many people do this and argue that it's safe. When you buy an ultra sonic cleaner the instruction manual has a warning that specifically says "do not use anything flammable" or "only use water". Look at the warning label on a bottle of IPA, that's a flammable warning. So don't use it unless you want to risk a fire in your basement. The reason you don't use flammable liquids is that vapors can build up and if a short occurs in your cleaner tub there can be a spark that causes the whole thing to catch on fire.
My worry with the cleaning products is that they may not fully evaporate off like an IPA would, so a follow up of painting and seeing if the paint still adheres in the same way might be useful.
Thank you for doing this! I am a noobie with resin 3d printing, and its great to know we dont have to HUNT for alcohol! We can use one of these others that are SO much easier to find!
Need to try "Super Clean" best all purpose cleaner I've ever used, though I also like LA's Totally Awesome from Dollar tree as well. Use them both for automotive detailing. You should also maybe look into cutting the cleaners down, generally I use most cleaners like this 4:1 with Reverse Osmosis Water (4 parts water to 1 part cleaner). Also, unless that face mask has carbon in it, you're breathing in chemical fumes... Invest in a 3m Mask with charcoal filters...
I’m even using Simple Green with my water washable resin. I’ve diluted it about half with water. Seems to clean better than just plain water. After the SG bath I put the prints in plain water as a final rinse.
As @@erikcramer said, the only reason these worked is because they all contain some sort of surfactant(soap) to pull the organic resins into water. Now what would be interesting to see is if 5% solutions of PVA(elmer's glue) of low molecular weight polyethylene glycol would work. It may require more than 5%, but it would make for an interesting experiment but in the end, it is likely to be more expensive than the off-the-shelf cleaners.
Thanks for this comparison. I'm just getting into 3D printing and picked up the Mars 2 p. I picked up a jug of the simple green because I'm trying to avoid harsh smells in my house. Plus I'll be using the plant based resin from Anycubic, again to keep the odours down. I'm anxious to see how things turn out once I cut my teeth on a few test prints. Still waiting on my Ultra Sonic Cleaner and Curing Booth before I get started. 👍
I used to work for a cleaning company, we had a contract with a chain of clinics, and they loved it when we used that Mr Clean cleaner for their floors. It's been a long time since I've worked for them, and I still buy and use that cleaner for my floors. The smell is heavenly.
Apologies, I was trying to find a link for where you got that mask? I'd like to get one for my husband. Thank you! This video helped a lot because we couldn't get IPA in out area without it being super expensive
Pretty good science for Not A Science Guy. I'm just getting into resin printing and this was a very useful video for me. Not mentioned - an open pan of IPA is a huge fire hazard and humans shouldn't inhale organic solvents... because we're organic.
Says the Mean Green is a better priced option, comes in half the size bottle as the Mr Clean. I've been using Mr Clean as it's not onnly the cheapest option, it is readily available at just about any store. I don't have a fancy sonic cleaner, but I use a plastic container with a 3d printed tray (similar to the pickle jars, but much larger). It has worked great for me.
How would you dispose of the resin tainted cleaning solution? With alcohol you just let it evaporate in teh sun and throw away the hardened left over resin. I also would like to know how well this works without an ultrasonic cleaner and just using a brush with some of this cleaner? I ask because I use an old toothbrush and IPA to clean my prints currently and swapping to something cheaper and less would be great.
Tell you what gloves and regular dish soap works great for me. Especially for parts that are too big to fit in a ultra sonic printer. Most resins are made from oil products. I just put soap on the part directly and message it with my fingers to spread it around. Leave it for 10 mins and then rinse it off with water...
For Ultrasonic cleaners it is very important that that are filled for them to work correctly. Even 1/2 inch makes a difference on the waves power. Besides that it will burn out the transducers fast if not full. I’m sure the manual will agree
FYI on the Simple Green. We use that on submarines when cleaning because it has no atmosphere contaminants or other contaminants that can cause the crew any health issues in enclosed spaces (like a submarine under water) for months on end. We also use ISP for some specific equipment cleaning...but we only use metal containers because the alcohol can break down the plastic from a container and suspend it in the solution and you end up coating the material your trying to clean with a microscopic film of plastic...which can build up over time and end up ruining some very expensive items.
Simple Green and a Mop. Every Submariners worst friend.
The only polymers that can by partly dissolved by alcohols are ABS, CAB and Acrylic.
PE-HD, in which 99.9999% of alcohol is stored doesn't dissolve any polymer for many years.
@@Balassvar what mop did you get? All I got was a few chem wipes and a fox tail.
Also with simple green is that it is crazy potent. You can dilute that stuff a lot before it stops being effective. And you can buy larger containers than that for about the same price.
Awesome comment! Made up my mind for me
Thank you for testing! If you want to reuse your cleaners put them into your curing station. After a few minutes all the liquid resin in the cleaner will solidify and sinks to the bottom of the bottle. Tested it with IPA. Have an nice day!
Oh dang. I will have to give that a go.
Coffee filters are commonly 20 microns as well and they will remove a lot of the "powdered" material from the Ipa. Grab a few two liter bottles or 3D print some funnels and you can rather quickly assemble a 3 stage IPA filter/recycling system. @@UncleJessy
Ha! I should read more before I leave a comment. I just asked about that. That's how we do it at work too, but have fancy filters there which are hard to duplicate at home.
Robert Allen Payne did you guys buy them or make them yourself at work? At my job we have SLA and DLP printers and I made a really ghetto system that seems to work to an extent. I basically wait for the alcohol to settle and the resin to sit at the bottom. Then I filter the alcohol with some strainers with a paper mesh to cover the surface. I do this on top of a brida filter but we print so much that we clogged it right away
Yep I do this too, works well
For those here for the IPA shortage, look into Purple Power as well. I use it. Doesn't have the weird minty/licorice smell that Simple Green does. I also use it to clean the build plate and the resin tank after prints. Scrape out the resin, spray the plate and reservoir and wipe. I also use a foaming ammonia free glass cleaner to clean off the build plate and FEP. I'm trying to get away from IPA because of the harsh smell and scarcity.
Not sure about the rest of the country, but Dollar Generals here in AZ have gallons of Mean Green for $5
Hello Jessy...just so I get this right, do you clean these files straight from the print? or Do you give it a first clean with straight IPA then put it into the Ultrasonic cleaner? Thank You ... I'm new and just getting started with resin printing :)
Hi there! I have IPA or denatured alcohol in a spray bottle that I spray onto my larger prints before I run them through the ultra sonic cleaner.
If you have a smaller resin printer you can grab a wash and cure unit from elegoo or Anycubic and just use ipa if it’s easier
@@UncleJessy ...Hi Jessy, wow, thanks for the quick response, I recently bought an Elegoo Mars 2, today I bought a 3L Ultrasonic cleaner. My reason for resin printing is I'd like to start printing model train parts and shells. I know a few fells that just use two washes in 99% IPA. What caught my eye was the great cleaning the US cleaner does. I was thinking to dip the print into the first was then put into the US cleaner with the MeanGreen which I can buy locally.
Do you have any plans to test "Print Wash" or "Phrozen wash"?
This video has never been more relative with the current iso shortage. Thank you!
Yep! That's why I'm here.
Yup. Just ordered my printer, can't find ISO anywhere. I did find Simple Green - I got 344 oz (2 gal, 88 oz.) for $19.06 and free shipping. That should last a while. (I hope)
@@broderp if your prints are small you can fill a smaller beaker with your cleaner, then put water in your bath and stand the beaker in the water - the water is needed to help the vibrations transfer to the beaker :)
Does you know if it has to be that specific mr clean product? I can only find multipurpose mr clean but the antibacterial he is using is nowhere to be found.
I just ordered my first printer and thought "oh crap, i won't be able to find alcohol." One google later here i am.
Pssht ultrasonic cleaner....... I just put them in a pickle container and then on top of the washing machine🤪
AK 907 just put them IN the dish washer
OMG This comment is GOLD!
@@AquaticSCP dishwasher water is far too hot and will likely melt and warp your prints though. Not to mention that you would need to be using a water washable resin and also risk contaminating anything else you put in the machine with it.
Don't sell yourself short. You put together a solid comparison test, eliminating as many variables as you could. Keep up the good work.
Hate to say it, but I wish you'd have done the tests on translucent resin. That way you could compare the fogging and discoloration effects of the cleaners :\
Thanks so much for these videos - I'm just about to plug in my first 3D printer, have gotten lots of tips from veteran 3D print folk, and I'm already a little overwhelmed - it's SO helpful to see the process in action along with the possible choices and results! You've saved me a ton of time and I haven't even started yet - MUCH appreciated!!!
Hey its Michael Pavlovich! The zbrush mentor to us all lol. Funny place to tell ya, but as a professional 3D artist, I still go to your videos regularly for help. Thanks for all the help man! To all the folks reading this, if you wanna learn zbrush, this the man right here!
Beware this video. Now two years later if you check the threads on Reddit you will see about 80% of the people that tried this had terrible results and went back to IPA. The only way it seems to work at all is if you use it in an ultrasonic cleaner heated to 50C. Also, in every recent video I've seen from Uncle Jesse, he's using IPA.
RZ masks do not filter vapors, just particulates and are providing you very limited protection from any resin or cleaning agent fumes. Something like a 3M respirator rated for organic vapors would be recommended.
They're also pretty cheap!
as a chemical compounder, I second the organic vapor filter option. 👍
When I bought my first resin printer, in the box I found a surgical mask. And the instructions said to make sure to wear the mask when working with the resin. Straight up! A surgical mask. When I go to the doctor they have a sign as you come into the waiting room. It says, “If you have a cold, the flu, or some other issue that causes you to cough or sneeze, then please take and wear a mask for the health of other patients and our staff.” They provide that same surgical mask that was shipped with my printer. I asked the doctor about it. And she told me that those types of masks ONLY stop germs from the people WEARING the mask. Anything floating in the air already will simply take the path of least resistance AROUND the mask and into your nose, mouth and lungs. So all these folks you see wearing these masks at airports are not protecting themselves. And if they aren’t able to protect themselves from germs, that mask SURE won’t protect them from VOCs and HAPs. If you are concerned about the fumes, then read the SDS and take appropriate action. The CDC states, “Respirators should only be used when engineering control systems are not feasible. Engineering control systems, such as adequate ventilation or scrubbing of contaminants, are the preferred control methods for reducing worker exposures.” So honestly, if you are worried about your health, don’t use resin printers unless you are willing to put in forced air ventilation. It’s what I did. It was easy. And pretty cheap. And now I’m fume free and don’t need to worry about respirators.
Partially correct. RZ Mask makes organic vapor filters for the their masks. You can either have masks that only filter particulates, or particulates and organic vapors/paints/solvents, etc. I own both types of mask RZ as well as dual cartridge respirators (3M style), and I find the RZ mask with the vapor filter to be the easiest to use, but if I'm going to do something prolonged and nasty I'll get out the dual cartridge respirator as I feel it is slightly more secure and filters better overall.
It's okay, he doesn't use it anyways. He just says he does so people can't cry about his safety problems.
Great job! Also, the Mean Green can be picked up at your local Dollar Tree for you guessed it! A BUCK! Also.. nice to see you guys using my pickle container idea! ;)
I will check this today as I am going to a dollar tree anyway. And where would I find you pickle container idea details?
Just a heads up. Isopropanol is a combination of the words Isopropyl and alcohol. There's no such thing as Isopropanol alcohol. 😃
There is literally no chemistry in this video.
@@truantray true, but he says 'isopropanol alcohol' while the bottle is sitting there and clearly says 'Isopropyl alcohol' and it's driving me up the wall.
I’ve noticed a lot of YT hosts say it that way. Always wonder why when it clearly says different on the bottle. Maybe their science teachers in high school learned to say it that way in a different time?
Geez a bunch of nerds... but you are correct....
just say 2-propanol ;)
I know this is an old video but that makes my question perfect. So after almost 2 years is Mean Green still your go to cleaner? Or are you using something else by now. I am waiting on delivery of my first resin printer. The Anycubic Photon Mono. Thanks
X2
Look at those shelves stocked with cleaning products. Ahhh, those were the days...
SAFETY TIP: Never smell the bottle. Waft the scent to your nose with your hand.
Haha very very true! Thought about that as I was editing 👍
If the chemical bottle is not clearly marked then you use the hand wave smell method. None of the chemical cleaners used in this video are dangerous and in fact, simple green is non toxic.
Great videos as always Jessy. If I can please make a request: please please please demonstrate the use of a proper respirator that filters fumes. What you’re using doesn’t have cartridge filters which is essential for safety. As someone who was hospitalized for breathing in bad stuff, I learned my lesson the hard way. Use a Niosh approved respirator with 6001 cartridge filters. These are regulated and proven to filter out harmful chemicals.
As a fellow maker, I’m seeing lots of tutorial videos on UA-cam where safety isn’t always promoted. Lots of kids are watching, let’s do our part to keep them safe! Thanks for all your hard work and videos, they are amazing! Keep on making!!
Panda Props & Costumes This is great advice 👍 The dust particle mask could even make fume inhalation worse as you end up breathing harder through the mask. Organic vapour filters will prevent the hallucinations 🤪
@@Botwire Not the point. Ppl watching might assume that's how you test ALL bottles. Always show good drill in a demo
I’m curious if the effectiveness of the clean would change if you had used a more contemporary cleaning machine like the Creality wash and cure station or any of the equivalents that instead of being ultrasonic actually just have a magnetically driven fan to stir the cleaning solution
I feel all these tests are best done with transparent resin as that is where most people want an alternative for IPA to prevent clouding.
I totally agree, should do a followup video with transparent resin. Still loved the video though.
I would also like to see a test done with transparent resin.
Clouding is avoided by drying the print completely.
@@truantray IPA is known to almost immediately cloud clear resins with a bit of a frosted appearance. This is right after they're in the IPA, even before they're cured, so it is unrelated to being completely dried. This is why I use ResinAway but I'm here to see if there were cheaper options that worked just as well as ResinAway.
SoGchaos then you won’t be able (harder) to see the liquid resin still on the prints
I use ultrasonic cleaners a lot and I have found clothes' detergent in liquid form is superb for cleaning in those machines ( a liitle detergent goes a log way do not use it 100% strength) . Better than orange chizel, simple green and other de-greasers. Also, you do not have to fill the whole tub with the cleaner. Fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water and put the product in a plastic tub filled to the same depth as the water in the cleaner. There is no difference.
Thanks!
What ratio of laundry detergent to water do you use ?
Great video, thank you for that. I'm a hardcore fan on Mean Green, I could not live without that amazing cleaner, and I
Some people say Mean Green leaves a tacky feeling on the print and needs a second wash to eliminate the tackiness, would you say that's true? It's only been a few people, but I'm curious.
Please don't use flammable liquids in an ultrasonic cleaner unless you know what you are doing. If you want to use flammable liquids such as IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner you would want to do it in a blast proof cleaner. Additionally you would want to make sure you have a high quality ultrasonic cleaner, not a cheap one.
I won't pretend to act like I'm the end all, be all of ultrasonic cleaners. However I do some work repairing computers and one of the cleaning methods many places use is a ultrasonic cleaner for logic boards. I have not purchased one, but from my research it is possible to get away with using flammable liquids inside of them, but the issue comes when it fails, because then you can expect something catastrophic. No I am not exaggerating, just look up some videos of when small amounts of IPA come in contact with fire.
I don't know if any of the other solvents used in this video are non-flammable, but hopefully they are.
I felt like I needed to say this as people could get seriously hurt, hopefully this would at least prompt some people to just do a little bit of research regarding this.
We use Simple Green on submarines but never stick your nose over a chemical, wave your hand over the opening towards yourself.
Simple Green is usually concentrated - if you diluted it to the suggested ratio it might be more cost-effective.
Some concentrated surfactant cleaners work better when diluted. They're designed to enhance water's solvent capabilities.
I wonder if you should have use plain water in the ultrasonic cleaner as sort of a baseline. Just to remove the Ultrasonic as a factor?
Probably not with the resin he used. He didn’t use a water washable resin so parts would be damaged. If you are gonna go out of your way to get water washable resin, then just clean with water. No chems involved.
please publish the ingredients of Mean Green and the other products, so we can find similar ones in other countries
It need to be pointed out these DO NOT work without a ultrasonic cleaner. I had the simple pickle dunking stations that worked fine for IPA but I got the one you suggested, mean green, and it did not work in my dunking station. Not only did it not get my print clean but it would foam really bad. I got an ultra sonic cleaner and now it works great! I can't remember if you said this or not in the video. I watched it but might have missed it, just throwing it out there. . .
So now Rust-oleum not just selling the best filler/primer for fdm prints, but the best resin cleaner too.
They can begin to think about a 3Dprinting sub-brand! :D
Chopi Seeing a rustoleum branded 3d printer, even a rebadged ODM, would be fantastic haha
I know this is an older video but I have used Mean Green for the last 3+ years.. It was $5 for a gallon at walmart here but is now $6.12/gal.. I usually buy online and pick it up. It's not dangerous to your health and smells much better than alcohol. btw, long time follower, Jessy!
Interesting video. You don't know how happy I was to see you address the respiratory issues with resins as I think that is a far bigger issue than the resin itself. I am a polymer chemist so I may be a bit jaded, but methacrylates are noxious and it takes far less of a substance to affect you through smell(in most cases) than it does through skin contact. But on that note, make sure you are using a F1 or F3 filter as those are designed to handle chemical and organic vapors as well as dust and fine particulates.
I would also wipe down any and everything you work with while wearing gloves with one of the alternative cleaning solutions you tested(or IPA) to avoid any chance for potential cross contamination. Excellent video and I will probably move to any of those non-IPA cleaners, especially if you are going to use an ultrasonic bath as they are mostly water with 'soap' so there should be no chance of any vapors igniting anything anywhere.
Glad I found this video, I was wondering if there were alternatives to IPA. I am just starting with 3D resin printing (I already have an Ender-3) and am collecting supplies while waiting for my Anycubic Photon to arrive.
Also, if you spill a cleaning product are you really making a mess?
What?! Still no black gloves? haha, just kidding! Great video as always. That ultrasonic cleaner looks great, albeit a bit too expensive for me. Is the lid on it sealed? Can you leave, lets say, IPA in it for later use? Guess I'll have to wait for the review video :)
Just an FYI out there for everyone. I used to use Simple Green to clean the rinse tanks of photo printers and developed a sensitivity to it. If anyone starts getting a scratchy throat, runny nose or eyes watering. Get to fresh air asap. If it comes back when you go back in the room find a new cleaner. I got so I can't even give the stuff one spray trigger w/o having a coughing fit. Hope it doesn't happen to anyone, cause it sucks. It was my favorite cleaner for many years. Happy printing ppl!😁
That’s a great callout! Something for sure I will be closely monitoring as I continue to work with these cleaners
This will help me, as I am just starting out with a resin printer and all the iso is gone. lol
This is super interesting! Thanks for posting this test! User safety/toxicity of the cleaners in large quantities is probably the biggest trade-off I see with regards to using these as an IPA alternative, but the fact that the degreaser resulted in the cleanest prints is very interesting!
I wonder how ethanol would work... maybe you could try scotch, vodka, and rum next! :P
Whiskey cleaner coming up!
Effective and Cheaper alternatives was the goal I was looking for here.
How does this stack up 2 years later with non-ultrasonic washing stations? Tempted to switch to mean green or even the mr clean for Mercury X. Easy to get at local small town Canadian Tire store and as you mentioned in the video less toxic fumes.
After how many prints would u recommend changing the solution?
Interesting initial findings, I would be interested in seeing how they holdup over time as well. As well as with transparent resin.
How does this video hold up today? Still the same recommendation?
Hey hey, I use IPA to clean almost all of my prints, or IPA in a spray bottle for really large prints. This method still works but doesn’t clean as good as IPA
If you still read these - are you still using something else than IPA? Also have you tried how these affect the strength of the parts.
Do NOT put isopropyl alcohol in an ultrasonic! This video depicts unsafe laboratory practice.
If this ever gets revised or revisited, Remember to mention that cleaners will Eat away at the spinner in the Wash and cure stations! was wondering why there was black bits floating around and i discovered that it completely dissolved the Rubber and the Blue protective coating on the spinner in the bottom of the container!
Thank you for pointing this out!
Not a issue if you use a ultrasonic cleaner, as there is no spinner.
I wonder how well these work in the Mercury Plus and similar cleaning stations. Sonic cleaners are a bit of a different animal. But hey, I've one of each that I can experiment with. I'll post my findings later.
How and when do you dispose of the contaminated simple green?
Hardest part for me is that none of these cleaners exists in my country, and I'm having a hard time finding a good alternative
I think the point is, your general purpose cleaner would probably work
Likewise, I would be interested in an ingredients list as not all cleaners are the same
So whats 2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)ethanol which is in «Mean green» and which products can replace it(«Mean green» not available in Norway) or is jus IPA/iso just the easiest, and does it have to be above 90% isopropyl?
www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/mean-green/hard-surface-cleaner/super-strength-multi-purpose
I'm going for the most environmental combo - Simple Green with Anycubic's soy-based resin. I live in the mountains of Central Oregon and during the winter, my options for ventilating my heated garage are minimal. I will post a video after I have done some testing with this combo.
Speaking of potential electrical explosion - I've heard that ISO you shouldn't put into sonic cleaners directly - and should bag it in a ziplock back with the part inside - and use water in the sonic cleaner to prevent explosion because of the chemical. Out of the rest of the cleaners you suggested, what are the dangers of using directly into a sonic cleaner (if by chance there was an electrical discharge or malfunction)
Usually more dangerous on larger scales but yeah IPA In a ultrasonic could be dangerous like any chemical that gives off flammable vapors. Keep open flames away from the flammable chemicals and don't leave it running long.
Thank you so much! I’m just getting into resin printing and I’ve seen all these vids about how you’re gonna have to spend 200 on gallons of IPA. I’ll be sure to get some mean green and try it out
Uncle Jessy, how do you dispose of the Mean Green solution when it gets dirty. And how often do you recommend changing it out? With the IPA, I would just pour it into a clear container and let it solidify in the sun. Then when thoroughly cured into a blob of "cheese", I'd let it dry out take to my waste disposal center. Same thing with the Mean Green?
You've a money saver. With this virus you can't find alcohol anywhere. Thank you for this. Saved me from wasting over 100$ to people taking advantage of the lack of product to take as much money as they can from people.
Just like SoGchaos said, I wouldn’t mind seeing a follow up test with a white & transparent resin too.
Hey man this really help me found a bottle of simple green at sam’s Club concentrated for like $10 makes 48 32oz bottles. Lot cheaper than the $30 I spent for 12 16oz bottles. Thanks!
Different resins respond to Simple/Mean green differently. Siraya Tech seems to work best; which is what Uncle Jessy uses most of the time. Others don't always works so well.
tacky feel after simple green? mine seem to be tacky for days even under a UV light
Is that mask rated for organic vapor filtering? If it isn't, then it's not actually doing anything for you to filter resin vapors and fumes. If it makes you feel healthier than fine, but that's just a placebo effect
Buddy I'm pretty sure the simple green and mr clean are concentrates.. X )
I was going to say the same thing. The Simple Green is supposed to be diluted according to the bottle for "heavy duty" cleaning 1:1 with water.
Elegoo recommends alcohol to be >95% for their resin so maybe that's why you had so bad results with 91%. Still an amazing find, really liked you video.
Thanks for the tips @uncle jessy. I have started using Simple Green for Water washable Resin in a 75% to 25% ratio (75% water, 25% Simple Green) in Anycubic 2in1 Wash and Cure and prints turn out amazingly clean.
To clean my print plate and FEB, I am now using same 75% to 25% mixture in a spray bottle… Spray it and wipeout with paper towel, super simple and no mess.
I've got a gallon of it here, and today is my first print. After you get done with the Green, do you also put it through a UV cure?
@@PopeCodyIV Washing once and then curing once is enough.
Thanks for the video, isopropyl alcohol during this epidemic is not available. Stay safe.👍🇺🇸
Is it safe or recommended to leave the cleaning solution in the ultrasonic between prints and reuse and then replace when needed?
OK, I don't want to be "that guy" but I have to say it... isopropyl is pronounced EYE-SO-PRO-PULL. Without fail you add an extra "n" in isopropyl each time. LOL
Isopropyl alcohol (IUPAC name propan-2-ol; commonly called isopropanol or 2-propanol) is a compound with the chemical formula CH3CHOHCH3. It is a colorless, flammable chemical compound with a strong odor.
At this point. If I don’t mispronounce something in at least one video then I’m not doing my job properly. 🤣
@@UncleJessy Oh, I don't think you did. isopropanol is a valid way of describing isopropyl alcohol.
@@UncleJessy You're good - Isopropanol is just the conjugation of "Isopropyl Alcohol"
LOL, I was tempted
I'm switching to Mean Green! One of my favorites anyways!
You can get a gallon of Mean Green concentrate at Walmart for $4.97. That's probably your biggest bang for the buck. I'm grabbing a couple of gallons today as I'm doing more LCD resin printing than ever before and ISO is not cheap. Great vid with a lot of excellent information!
Have you ever tried denture cleaning tablets? Apparently you can do this in just water. Much safer, if it works.
50% Isopropyl Alcohol also works IF used it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few more minutes. I put my prints and the cleaning solutions in a sealed plastic container with a locking lid and put that in my ultrasonic cleaner with water filling the rest of the vat. This way It never gets dirty, I only change the water once in a while and can keep multiple cleaning solutions in different containers. Like water to rinse the cleaning solution. Also, remember different resins don't all clean the same.
Soooo... look up flammable solvents in sonic cleaner that is not specifically made for flammables... (apparently a hugely expensive upgrade) and I get lots of information saying that the flammable vapor gets atomized into the sonic cleaner tank with the lid on making a very effective BOMB...
DONT use IPA in your sonic cleaner they say...
also the IPA does not have enough surface tension to function properly in the sonic cleaner.
Be your own safety department tho...
This is just an FYI
An die Deutschen die gedacht haben "Geil Meister Propper/Allzweckeeiniger". Die Zusammensetzung des Producktes im Video ist anders, dad deutsche Product geht nicht. Was aber 100% wirkt (getested) Frosch Glasreiniger mit Spiritus im Ultraschall Bad.
Just Quick Note to the Germans that our Mr. Clean Brand does not work, but another Brand's Window Cleaner with Ethanol, guess it comes down to the Ethanol. Will search for cheap Spiritus next time.
Ich überlege noch ob ich mir ein Ultraschallreiniger oder eine Wash and Cure Station für mein Mono X zulegen soll... Isopropanol ist als 5 Liter gar nicht so teuer... Die Frage, die ich mir noch stelle: werden die Ergebnisse mit dem Ultraschallreiniger und den deutschen Reinigern genauso gut oder besser als herkömmlich mit Isopropanol?
Gerade für transparente Drucke oder mit "Abs like" Resin?
I don't think you properly compared the Simple Green.
It looks to me like you poured straight from the bottle of Simple Green. I have the same one and it says concentrate on the front, and the back side shows the proper dilution ratios.
It states for heavy duty cleaning you should add 1 part water for each 1 part concentrate. And general purpose is 10 to 1.
If you also compared dish soap, you wouldn't pour pure Dawn into the ultrasonic cleaner.
In my own experience recreating this test, the diluted Simple Green was comparable to the others, while the pure concentrate did a terrible job (as you show here).
Also, depending on the amount of dilution, it could be cheaper than $1 per gallon.
Yes. At the start of the process, he said "1:1" but then corrected himself to say "undiluted", as in straight from the bottle as shown.
Is your shirt inside out? :D
I was wondering the same thing. It is definetly inside out.
Drives my wife crazy when I wear my T-shirt’s inside out. Been a habit since high school
Anyone done same test for not ultrasonic cleaning like from anycubic wash and cure station?
Jerzy Sokolowski curious about this too. the benefit of IPA is that it evaporates so no need to clean it off before curing. I would say that all of these cleaners need to be rinsed off before curing. I was just getting used to my anycubic cleaning station when this bloody virus thing happened and. Is no isopropyl left 😔
La totally awesome is the best get the gallon from home depot
Great video, Jessy, but product lifetime is another variable to consider. I realize it would make for a much more complicated test, but how many cleaning cycles can you get out of each product and, more importantly, what do you do with the dirty cleaner when it's used up? My hunch is all of them except IPA have to be taken to the recycling center (maybe they can be decanted a few times first, but that takes a lot of time and more cleaner to use while the dirty stuff sits). IPA, on the other hand, can easily be distilled (with a $125 electric water distiller from Amazon) and reused indefinitely (until you run out of it through evaporation), simplifying the cleaning cycle and, possibly, reducing cost.
Thx for the tip, I can’t put into words how I hate ipa! I guess I’ll be getting a sonic cleaner. I’ve listened to other people’s advice with the durp systems they employ to little success. My print have delicate details that can’t handle being put into tub a mixed around with clumsy hands.
I wonder if this would be a good way to clean the vat after a failed print.
did you use these neat? or with water added?
I think you need to look elsewhere for mean Green. By me at Menards it is $4.97 a gallon.
Mean Green is indeed the best. I have been using it for years and recommending it for as long. Simple reason is its the only cleaner I could find that contains an ethoxylated or propoxylated alcohol which are the ingredients common to stuff like Resin Away from Monocure, and Yellow Magic 7 (yep, resin away is essentially mean green with a crazy jacked up price) that can be bought at a general store. You can confirm this by obtaining the MSDS from Monocure and Yellow Magic if you would like. It can be bought in gallons for about $8 at hardware stores depending where you live. It will also last forever minus evaporation due to the fact you can cure the resin out of it. However it WILL discolor your print if left in too long. As far as alcohols go, you should be using denatured alcohol (ethanol, which is methylated to prevent drinking), also known as methylated spirits across the pond. I really dont know why isopropanol became a thing for rinsing prints. Ethanol, which is in fact the alcohol recommended by most resin manufacturers, works far better, does not cloud prints nearly as bad, and is MUCH cheaper at around $11/gal. I am going to assume when people read alcohol they assumed it meant isopropanol, and it just became the norm, which was in fact mis-information. Some do just state alcohol without specifying ethanol, but most do state ethanol. Isopropanol does work, but is not as effective, and clouds the prints due to having a water content that is absorbed into the surface on top of the amount of etching that takes place. Also, do not use alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner. Flammable vapors can be produced potentially causing a really bad day.
So after washing in mean green, I can just put it under the same UV/sunlight to cure the left behind resin?
@@travismcgruder5169 Rinse with water after the mean green just to get rid of the mean green.
Looks like Oil Eater brand cleaner may have similar ingredients as well?
Sodium metasilicate - pentahydrate 6834-92-0 < 5%
2 Butoxyethanol 111-76-2 < 5 %
Linear Alcohol Ethoxylate 68439-46-3 < 5 %
Any European alternatives for this products?
I would be also interested in this. I'm planning to buy an Elegoo Mars
Mr Clean is just “Meister Propper” in Germany. I’m pretty sure it’s available throughout Europe under various names. Just look for the P&G all purpose cleaner.
@@aneph96 hey thanks for the reply! Time to check out Müller
They sell it (sometimes) at the Action
Welcher Meister Propper ist das nun?
Would you use Mean Green to clean and maintain your printer and vat as well?
UK alternatives??
I love how this guy is so in love with Mr. Clean hahaha
Anyone else using mean green have trouble getting the mean green itself off of prints? I've tried it full strength, diluted, etc and no matter what I can't get the mean green suds to wash off completely. I've washed prints in 2 or 3 containers of fresh water, in rubbing alcohol, even in distilled water. They still have soap suds coating them that ruins the print quality.
Oh wow I don’t think I’ve run into that. I should have an update to this video up in the next day or so with some other alternatives that might work better for you
@@UncleJessy awesome, look forward to it. I've had to go back to ipa at $20 to $50/gallon. It's making it hard to turn a profit.
Great video! As a science teacher, I love this. May even show it in class!
Not to mention, I’m moving to one for the cleaners over ipa.
Thanks!
SAFETY TIP: Do not use alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner, it is a severe fire hazard.
That´s what I tought. I just try to make a buy dicision on a supersonic cleaner on amazon, man that is hard! It said you should not use ignitable Liquids
No it is not. You only need low power for 120sec. The IPA does not even get warm.
Fire risk isn’t from heating, its from when people leave IPA in the cleaner with the lid closed. The IPA evaporates until it reaches vapor pressure, and when you turn the ultrasonic back on if any part of the electronics sparks on power on it could ignite the vapors. Just don’t leave it in the cleaner - or at least leave door open for awhile before turning cleaner on again.
It amazes me how many people do this and argue that it's safe. When you buy an ultra sonic cleaner the instruction manual has a warning that specifically says "do not use anything flammable" or "only use water". Look at the warning label on a bottle of IPA, that's a flammable warning. So don't use it unless you want to risk a fire in your basement. The reason you don't use flammable liquids is that vapors can build up and if a short occurs in your cleaner tub there can be a spark that causes the whole thing to catch on fire.
@@stinkyham9050 Vegetable oil is flammable and people pour it into cookware over open flames every day.
My worry with the cleaning products is that they may not fully evaporate off like an IPA would, so a follow up of painting and seeing if the paint still adheres in the same way might be useful.
you could always use the cleaner to do the heavy lifting of cleaning the part then use IPA to clean the cleaner off
Thank you for doing this! I am a noobie with resin 3d printing, and its great to know we dont have to HUNT for alcohol! We can use one of these others that are SO much easier to find!
Yep! I still use this in my large ultrasonic cleaner
Need to try "Super Clean" best all purpose cleaner I've ever used, though I also like LA's Totally Awesome from Dollar tree as well. Use them both for automotive detailing.
You should also maybe look into cutting the cleaners down, generally I use most cleaners like this 4:1 with Reverse Osmosis Water (4 parts water to 1 part cleaner).
Also, unless that face mask has carbon in it, you're breathing in chemical fumes... Invest in a 3m Mask with charcoal filters...
I’m even using Simple Green with my water washable resin. I’ve diluted it about half with water. Seems to clean better than just plain water. After the SG bath I put the prints in plain water as a final rinse.
Since you used the ultrasonic cleaner you should have tried and see if water works
I just suggested the same thing.
I was thinking the same...
It won't, it doesn't desolve the resin
@@erikcramer I know this now because I tried it today.
As @@erikcramer said, the only reason these worked is because they all contain some sort of surfactant(soap) to pull the organic resins into water. Now what would be interesting to see is if 5% solutions of PVA(elmer's glue) of low molecular weight polyethylene glycol would work. It may require more than 5%, but it would make for an interesting experiment but in the end, it is likely to be more expensive than the off-the-shelf cleaners.
Thanks for this comparison. I'm just getting into 3D printing and picked up the Mars 2 p. I picked up a jug of the simple green because I'm trying to avoid harsh smells in my house. Plus I'll be using the plant based resin from Anycubic, again to keep the odours down. I'm anxious to see how things turn out once I cut my teeth on a few test prints. Still waiting on my Ultra Sonic Cleaner and Curing Booth before I get started. 👍
I used to work for a cleaning company, we had a contract with a chain of clinics, and they loved it when we used that Mr Clean cleaner for their floors. It's been a long time since I've worked for them, and I still buy and use that cleaner for my floors. The smell is heavenly.
Apologies, I was trying to find a link for where you got that mask? I'd like to get one for my husband. Thank you! This video helped a lot because we couldn't get IPA in out area without it being super expensive
Pretty good science for Not A Science Guy. I'm just getting into resin printing and this was a very useful video for me. Not mentioned - an open pan of IPA is a huge fire hazard and humans shouldn't inhale organic solvents... because we're organic.
Says the Mean Green is a better priced option, comes in half the size bottle as the Mr Clean. I've been using Mr Clean as it's not onnly the cheapest option, it is readily available at just about any store. I don't have a fancy sonic cleaner, but I use a plastic container with a 3d printed tray (similar to the pickle jars, but much larger). It has worked great for me.
How would you dispose of the resin tainted cleaning solution? With alcohol you just let it evaporate in teh sun and throw away the hardened left over resin. I also would like to know how well this works without an ultrasonic cleaner and just using a brush with some of this cleaner? I ask because I use an old toothbrush and IPA to clean my prints currently and swapping to something cheaper and less would be great.
Tell you what gloves and regular dish soap works great for me. Especially for parts that are too big to fit in a ultra sonic printer. Most resins are made from oil products.
I just put soap on the part directly and message it with my fingers to spread it around. Leave it for 10 mins and then rinse it off with water...
Where are those ultrasonic cleaners for $50? They start from $130😂
For Ultrasonic cleaners it is very important that that are filled for them to work correctly. Even 1/2 inch makes a difference on the waves power. Besides that it will burn out the transducers fast if not full. I’m sure the manual will agree
This blows my mind. IPA is really expensive here, and I never considered alternatives! Thanks man