WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts! Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT One thing I'd like to add to this video and the sessions here, is that many of you will have to figure out for yourselves how good you can manage with the training load that's presented here. When I'm in good shape and in a training grind I usually do three days on, one day off, cycling these three sessions within those three days. That's a fairly high load, so prioritise what you can and find what you can work with consistently! If you don't know what you can manage, the program in the Crimpd app is developed by experts to allow for adequate recovery and a good training block that should suit most V8 (and above) climbers. This concludes my short training series, and what I think are fundamentals to go from V0 to at least V11. I hope you all enjoyed it! Remember, making sure you eat enough and also stay consistent will be two pillars you can't go without to reach new levels, but when you add these things to your training you've got a recipe for gains in the making!
Excellent! Thank you for your hard work and expertise, Emil. Top tier like always. I've been doing the 2 times a day finger boarding for a month or so and it has truly truly helped a lot. I can recruit so much faster, and it is more consistently in the correct position. Im excited to employ these methods! You always seem to know what i am needing/wanting as far as content and motivation.
@@sploo13 probably the most important advice of all! I agree! Luckily I learned that lesson the hard way via strains and not full tears. Between my Gung ho mindset mixed with no experience and super high bodyweight, I was kinda destined for injury at first. It wouldve been way worse if I hadn't found folks like Emil for advice.
Your form @3:48 is not optimal Emil. Try to approach it more like a deadlift which means shoulders back and squeezed as well as a straight back, look forward and not towards your feet, dont hunch over! Also you do not want your shoulder to wander inwards like that. it should stay nice in place which should automatically happen if you squeeze your shoulderblades. Cheers.
Im looking forward to the research! Don't forget to use controls like in a RCT design. This design is essential if you want to research effectiveness of a training protocol. You can use "no protocol" as controls but I would be way more interested in seeing a control group that does max hangs 2-3 times per week. Or even better you can have 3 arms and compare: "submax hang protocol", "max hang protocol" and "no protocol."
Gonna be trying a few of these! I've been bouldering for 11-12 years now and while I've gotten fairly strong it's been a long time since I have broken through a plateau. I have been stuck for a couple years now but I've been more psyched on training recently. Always a pleasure watching your videos!
Awesome video, like always. Thank you for that extremely valuable work. I'm wondering in term of weekly schedule what it represents overall? Are these the 3 consecutives days you do at the gym and then 1/2 rest day, or are each of these 3 days separated by 1 rest day (so 3 days of gym per week)? And in term of training volume, what is the approximate duration of each session? Something like 2 hours each, or more like 1h/3-4h depending on the type of session?
The sessions vary in length, much depending on when I feel warm and ready to go. After a rest day I’m usually a bit more sluggish and in need of some more recruitment. Most often I’ll do these 3 days in a row, then rest one day, and repeat. Given that I film for UA-cam a lot my training schedule easily gets disrupted, but that’s the “go-to” scenario when I’m in my training grind
we need more details about how you’re structuring the training throughout the week? Are the sessions on consecutive days?How many reps for max hang? thanks
I feel like that's generally going to not be something you should emulate, since those details are more dependent on how you recover than how he recovers
Emil, Not lying when I say you have some of the best content on UA-cam. I always learn something, and it's always a bit different from the traditional training advice we hear on UA-cam. Question: How often do you rest between sessions? Do you have a strict regiment or is it more flexible? Do you only do the 3 sessions per week and rest the other 4 days?
for the latches, would keeping the other hand on the lowest rung with only 2-3 fingers on so it takes a small amount of load be a viable way to lower intensity?
Awesome video. How many years did it take to you to reach 200% on max hangs protocol (which is body weight + the same amount of additional weight )? Do you change your type of session during month or year? For example you train max hangs for three or four month, and then switch to different type of training? Is finger strength the most important component of bouldering?
@@TheSkyeguy yeah that’s why i was asking, I’m 11 when I wrote this I was 10, I just got my first v10 at the time of writing this so I thought that I should maybe start taking things more seriously. Thanks! 🙏
Thanks for the great video Emil! Has your capability to train multiple days in a row changed over the years? I have been experimented both with going every day and with taking 2-3 days of rest between sessions. I would love to hear your wisdom on this! (I have been bouldering for 3 years and my limit is around the 7a/7b range)
These workout videos you're making lately are amazing! I am for sure more into the strength aspect of climbing, as that is what I find most fun/interesting. Not a lot of videos focus on this tho, since it's kinda overlooked as you say, and it's more popular to talk about technique. Nice to see someone who gets in-depth on both.
Hey Emil, thank you so much for the recent content, its been very helpful! Im a V5 climber, do you think that doing 80% bw dead hangs and board traning the same day is harmfull for the fingers and can pontentially lead to injury?
Yes. That is an insane load on your fingers. You have more than enough finger strength to progress up to V7-8. I would switch to repeaters as they are safer and won't obliterate your tendons. (Putting you on the bench for months)
im not sure if you know this or even if you care or take it into consideration but putting your hand against the wall when handboarding, takes a significant amount of weight off the hanging hand
I gotta find or start a gym that has actual training facilities. We got a fixed moonboard at 40degrees and a fixed tension board at 30. No spray wall. No permanent hangboard setups.the campus board is stuck in a corner
I'm sure you've answered this a billion times before, but I haven't seen it, so my question is: When doing these kilterboard-projecting sessions, how long do you rest between the go's? It's hard for me to tell if it's 30 seconds or some serious 5 minute rests.
that will depend on your level of exhaustion, if your heart rate is normal again, breathing normal again, your muscles feel ready again and so on than you can go again, but if you want to measure it 2/3-5min
As stated above it depends on how tired you get. I usually rest between 1-5 minutes per attempt, depending on if I’m working on a move or trying from the bottom. On average I’m good to go after 2 minutes
Hi Emil, I have a question about your grip position when campus boarding and hang boarding. In general, I’ve seen most people say to train in a half crimp position for max efficiency; however, I see you are using more of an open hand grip in the video. What are your thoughts on which grip position to use? I am stronger in open hand and would assume you are too based on it being your default, so I’d love to hear your thoughts about this. Thanks and great video!
Any tips on doing the jump and latch exercise if your local gym doesnt have a campus board? i was thinking of 1 arm velocity pulls on a hangboard should simulate the same response?
Do you have a good body weight % regarding off setting the one arm hangs? A weight perhaps which will still make the hang effective, helping without making it too easy/useless etc
The first time I saw you in a climbing video you were wearing that red shirt from the video thumbnail. It's crazy to see how far you (and the other crew) have come on here and boy does time fly.
Cheers mate. Usually I’ll rest between 1-5 minutes, depending on my level of exhaustion and how many moves I did. The goal is to figure out what you need to climb the boulder in 20 minutes, sometimes that’s just 4 good goes from the bottom, sometimes that’s 15 attempts just working one move and then doing it right after, so the problem dictates the training a bit
Should the mileage day feel like endurance workout? If I drop the difficulty to where I can recover very easily in 2 mins the problems are very simple with not much technique gain. If they are harder to where technique can really be perfected then 2 mins is not enough recovery and it kind of becomes a power endurance workout. But I don’t think that is the goal of this session 🤔
Great question! I would not call it an endurance session, and what I would recommend would be a few more minutes rest between the boulders. Most of use require different amounts of rest between boulders (even at your max difficulty, I’m usually good to go again after 2-3 minutes rest, others at the same level might need 20 minutes), so rest the amount that feels best to you, but try to keep it between 2-5 minutes. If the session becomes too long you can reduce the amount of boulders slightly
do you feel that it is important that you can do the problems in the "max projecting bouldersession?" i usually try quite a few boulder for 20 mins each, but i seldomly get to the top of any of them
Not necessarily, but I’d say you should shoot to do atleast half when training this way. If you’re close in 20 minutes that’s also fine, it’s just good to not work on one single move on a board for 20 minutes straight, unless it replicates something you want to do outdoors for example.
to campus boarding: big fan of it and I included it a lot in my workout until Ive got a bad injury and I had long time to recover, thats why I did most of my recovery in the gym and there I noticed, that all those hours of campus training didnt translate in a lot of gains (neither strength nor muscle, but into endurance). my explanation: campus boarding doesnt use a full range of motion, most of the time its a mid range, meaning a smaller stretch and its quite difficult to overload. Im still not back 100%, so I cant compare that fully yet, but wanted to throw it out maybe it starts an interesting discussion. I would now do campus training on the day I do endurance and not max power
I think in other videos Emil has said campus boarding wasn't very important to strength gains and that his campus boarding improved when he stopped doing it and focused on other things
Just in the middle of trying to break past 7b/v8. When I say middle 2 years stuck, I train either too hard not enough. Don’t eat or eat and supplement 😂. Your videos come from a great perspective and I like the fact you speak the hard truths. Respect 🫡 finally a training routine looks decent I will give it a go! I have tried my fair share. Only question is do you have 1 rest day after each 3 day routine?
@@gaborieli climb 8b (if i project prob harder) and 8a boulder in 4,5 years of climbing, and i trained totally random and do what i feel, who i have to listen to climb hard? Lattice training? They probably climb less than me...
@@lucaa4480 First of all I did not mean that as an offense and it wasn't directed to you. Second of all, I am not saying that you have to listen to anybody, but that if you have tried everything except having a training routine for two years, maybe that's what you have to do. Our nervous system, muscles and most importantly tendons need constant stimulus in order to make adaptations. You might be giving your nervous system constant stimulus in order to learn good technique, but if you are not giving your muscles and/or tendons constant stimulus in order for them to adapt, it is more likely that you will plateau at some point. You definitely have natural talent for climbing as you climb 8b, but if you get stuck on a grade, it might be more because you don't have a training routine rather than just not climbing enough.
@@gaborielbut what do you mean with training routine? I usually go to the gym like 3 times a week and 2 days a week i climb outside. When i go to the gym i try things at my limit on the moonboard and hangboard and things like that (weighted pull ups ecc), i would like to train better like with a japan wall or a kilter board but my shitty gym doesn't have one), but i do those things totally random, i only listen to myself on how many hours spend on the moonbaord or on the bestmaker, and maybe a monday i'm doing moonboard maybe the next one i'm doing weighted pull ups. My only concern is about the resting because i climb nonstop for like 3 hours on the moonboard 😅
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One thing I'd like to add to this video and the sessions here, is that many of you will have to figure out for yourselves how good you can manage with the training load that's presented here. When I'm in good shape and in a training grind I usually do three days on, one day off, cycling these three sessions within those three days. That's a fairly high load, so prioritise what you can and find what you can work with consistently! If you don't know what you can manage, the program in the Crimpd app is developed by experts to allow for adequate recovery and a good training block that should suit most V8 (and above) climbers.
This concludes my short training series, and what I think are fundamentals to go from V0 to at least V11. I hope you all enjoyed it!
Remember, making sure you eat enough and also stay consistent will be two pillars you can't go without to reach new levels, but when you add these things to your training you've got a recipe for gains in the making!
the intro clips transitioning into you talking very calmingly was absolutely masterful
A contrast ! Very good!
Excellent! Thank you for your hard work and expertise, Emil. Top tier like always. I've been doing the 2 times a day finger boarding for a month or so and it has truly truly helped a lot. I can recruit so much faster, and it is more consistently in the correct position. Im excited to employ these methods! You always seem to know what i am needing/wanting as far as content and motivation.
That’s awesome to hear mate. I’m still in love with the protocol, hope it continues to treat you well
@@sploo13 probably the most important advice of all! I agree! Luckily I learned that lesson the hard way via strains and not full tears. Between my Gung ho mindset mixed with no experience and super high bodyweight, I was kinda destined for injury at first. It wouldve been way worse if I hadn't found folks like Emil for advice.
This is the most relatable content for transitioning from gym strength to climbing hard
Your form @3:48 is not optimal Emil. Try to approach it more like a deadlift which means shoulders back and squeezed as well as a straight back, look forward and not towards your feet, dont hunch over! Also you do not want your shoulder to wander inwards like that. it should stay nice in place which should automatically happen if you squeeze your shoulderblades. Cheers.
I'm not a professional but I also thought the form was a little strange.
My ADHD brain clocked out after 30 seconds but my takeaway is: SCREAM MORE DURING TRAINING WUAAAAHHHHHH
Im looking forward to the research! Don't forget to use controls like in a RCT design. This design is essential if you want to research effectiveness of a training protocol. You can use "no protocol" as controls but I would be way more interested in seeing a control group that does max hangs 2-3 times per week. Or even better you can have 3 arms and compare: "submax hang protocol", "max hang protocol" and "no protocol."
Gonna be trying a few of these! I've been bouldering for 11-12 years now and while I've gotten fairly strong it's been a long time since I have broken through a plateau. I have been stuck for a couple years now but I've been more psyched on training recently. Always a pleasure watching your videos!
Awesome video, like always. Thank you for that extremely valuable work.
I'm wondering in term of weekly schedule what it represents overall? Are these the 3 consecutives days you do at the gym and then 1/2 rest day, or are each of these 3 days separated by 1 rest day (so 3 days of gym per week)?
And in term of training volume, what is the approximate duration of each session? Something like 2 hours each, or more like 1h/3-4h depending on the type of session?
The sessions vary in length, much depending on when I feel warm and ready to go. After a rest day I’m usually a bit more sluggish and in need of some more recruitment.
Most often I’ll do these 3 days in a row, then rest one day, and repeat. Given that I film for UA-cam a lot my training schedule easily gets disrupted, but that’s the “go-to” scenario when I’m in my training grind
@EmilAbrahamsson is the 4x4 included in the volume session? Like for muscle endurance training etc
we need more details about how you’re structuring the training throughout the week? Are the sessions on consecutive days?How many reps for max hang? thanks
I feel like that's generally going to not be something you should emulate, since those details are more dependent on how you recover than how he recovers
Emil,
Not lying when I say you have some of the best content on UA-cam. I always learn something, and it's always a bit different from the traditional training advice we hear on UA-cam.
Question: How often do you rest between sessions? Do you have a strict regiment or is it more flexible? Do you only do the 3 sessions per week and rest the other 4 days?
for the latches, would keeping the other hand on the lowest rung with only 2-3 fingers on so it takes a small amount of load be a viable way to lower intensity?
The amount of work tou put into this Emil is absolutely appreciated man 🙏
Awesome video.
How many years did it take to you to reach 200% on max hangs protocol (which is body weight + the same amount of additional weight )?
Do you change your type of session during month or year? For example you train max hangs for three or four month, and then switch to different type of training?
Is finger strength the most important component of bouldering?
Is it safe for kids 10 and under to do the finger training part of your session
I've heard children's finger bones are prone to fracturing during intense training such as finger boarding as their bones density is lower
@@TheSkyeguy yeah that’s why i was asking, I’m 11 when I wrote this I was 10, I just got my first v10 at the time of writing this so I thought that I should maybe start taking things more seriously. Thanks! 🙏
Can anyone tell me where I can get that top Emil is wearing?
Good to see you and Eric in the same room again! Hope this means some collab vids (and maybe some Nikken)) coming up.
Your hard work always inspires me a lot!! Thank you. 😊
Thanks for the great video Emil!
Has your capability to train multiple days in a row changed over the years?
I have been experimented both with going every day and with taking 2-3 days of rest between sessions. I would love to hear your wisdom on this!
(I have been bouldering for 3 years and my limit is around the 7a/7b range)
These workout videos you're making lately are amazing! I am for sure more into the strength aspect of climbing, as that is what I find most fun/interesting. Not a lot of videos focus on this tho, since it's kinda overlooked as you say, and it's more popular to talk about technique. Nice to see someone who gets in-depth on both.
what hairprodut do you use?
3:58 what is the no-hang block you're using?
Any exercises that can replace campus latches? I don’t have a campus board at my gym
Hey Emil, thank you so much for the recent content, its been very helpful!
Im a V5 climber, do you think that doing 80% bw dead hangs and board traning the same day is harmfull for the fingers and can pontentially lead to injury?
Yes. That is an insane load on your fingers. You have more than enough finger strength to progress up to V7-8. I would switch to repeaters as they are safer and won't obliterate your tendons. (Putting you on the bench for months)
Working your training sessions in the run up to Rocklands 2024 season 😎 Many thanks from South Africa for this great video.
Nice mate! I can nothing but wish you a great season there, I still haven’t been but it looks amazing
im not sure if you know this or even if you care or take it into consideration but putting your hand against the wall when handboarding, takes a significant amount of weight off the hanging hand
Thats not how forces work, you do change HOW you activate your fingers and muscles, because your CoM changes, but really not by that much
great transition at the beginning!)
I gotta find or start a gym that has actual training facilities. We got a fixed moonboard at 40degrees and a fixed tension board at 30. No spray wall. No permanent hangboard setups.the campus board is stuck in a corner
My gym only has a moonboard... i think i will have to build a japan wall at my home and never go in a gym again
My gym has nothing as shown in the video, guess I'm stuck at v5 forever 🥲
Is it best to do session #1,#2,#3 rest day?
I'm sure you've answered this a billion times before, but I haven't seen it, so my question is: When doing these kilterboard-projecting sessions, how long do you rest between the go's? It's hard for me to tell if it's 30 seconds or some serious 5 minute rests.
that will depend on your level of exhaustion, if your heart rate is normal again, breathing normal again, your muscles feel ready again and so on than you can go again, but if you want to measure it 2/3-5min
As stated above it depends on how tired you get. I usually rest between 1-5 minutes per attempt, depending on if I’m working on a move or trying from the bottom. On average I’m good to go after 2 minutes
Thanks a lot to both of you!
I'm starting to see a pattern here...
What pattern?
what do you mean
I mean Emil also has to eat :)
But yeah...also not my channel typ these days
I always thought you were doing much more volume, but that´s 30 climbs for your volume session and 80 minutes for projecting, right?
Hi Emil, I have a question about your grip position when campus boarding and hang boarding. In general, I’ve seen most people say to train in a half crimp position for max efficiency; however, I see you are using more of an open hand grip in the video. What are your thoughts on which grip position to use? I am stronger in open hand and would assume you are too based on it being your default, so I’d love to hear your thoughts about this. Thanks and great video!
Any tips on doing the jump and latch exercise if your local gym doesnt have a campus board?
i was thinking of 1 arm velocity pulls on a hangboard should simulate the same response?
Do you have a good body weight % regarding off setting the one arm hangs? A weight perhaps which will still make the hang effective, helping without making it too easy/useless etc
I always thought "no hang" meant using blocks and pulling/picking-up
What is your thought on sport climbing for volume days?
What I took away from this: Screaming gives you a +2 boost in strength temporarily
The first time I saw you in a climbing video you were wearing that red shirt from the video thumbnail. It's crazy to see how far you (and the other crew) have come on here and boy does time fly.
How long are you resting between the attemps in the first session? Nice and compact video
Cheers mate. Usually I’ll rest between 1-5 minutes, depending on my level of exhaustion and how many moves I did. The goal is to figure out what you need to climb the boulder in 20 minutes, sometimes that’s just 4 good goes from the bottom, sometimes that’s 15 attempts just working one move and then doing it right after, so the problem dictates the training a bit
A wild eric spotted! Will y’all ever colab on some videos again?
NDL
How often do you do session 1,2,3? How many rest days in between?
awesome video ! is it possible to use the edge lifting technique for the no hang training ? dont have a hangboard setup at my new place
Can't wait to see what comes out of your collaboration with Keith Barr
Sounds like he is about to go super saiyan.
im not sure about this camera angle in the session #1 section. its really not ideal for seeing the moves you are doing on the board.
Conclusion... A lot of screaming
Hell yeah. We're on that no-hang November grind
great video💪🏻 how would you implement some lead training? does it make sence to do some lead routes after a session?
Should the mileage day feel like endurance workout? If I drop the difficulty to where I can recover very easily in 2 mins the problems are very simple with not much technique gain. If they are harder to where technique can really be perfected then 2 mins is not enough recovery and it kind of becomes a power endurance workout. But I don’t think that is the goal of this session 🤔
Great question! I would not call it an endurance session, and what I would recommend would be a few more minutes rest between the boulders. Most of use require different amounts of rest between boulders (even at your max difficulty, I’m usually good to go again after 2-3 minutes rest, others at the same level might need 20 minutes), so rest the amount that feels best to you, but try to keep it between 2-5 minutes. If the session becomes too long you can reduce the amount of boulders slightly
Great thanks man!@@EmilAbrahamsson
The intro piece is my morning alarm
Where can I get the wooden tool he uses for edge lifts at 3:40?
How to climb v15 step 1: scream a lot
how do you schedule those 3 session within a week?
Casual ronnie coleman reference at 5:49
I almost thought that was à twilight movie reel
what hangboard do you recommend
Session 1: Power screaming
scream hard = get strong i guessing
perfect timing, do you do these in periods or is this one week?
I do all these within 3 days, rest one day, and repeat
That's wild, thanks for the reply
do you feel that it is important that you can do the problems in the "max projecting bouldersession?" i usually try quite a few boulder for 20 mins each, but i seldomly get to the top of any of them
Not necessarily, but I’d say you should shoot to do atleast half when training this way. If you’re close in 20 minutes that’s also fine, it’s just good to not work on one single move on a board for 20 minutes straight, unless it replicates something you want to do outdoors for example.
This video is a pure gem thx for sharing 😊
so learn to scream
Which gym is this?
how often do you do each type of session percentage-wise?
Even split I would say, but the projecting session is the most important one
psyched!!
Nice
The video I've been waiting so long for!
Love ya man, you're consistently putting out the best content for climbing available imo, whether it's entertainment or self improvement
wow amazing for the research! very intresting topic! very intresting video!
to campus boarding:
big fan of it and I included it a lot in my workout until Ive got a bad injury and I had long time to recover, thats why I did most of my recovery in the gym and there I noticed, that all those hours of campus training didnt translate in a lot of gains (neither strength nor muscle, but into endurance).
my explanation: campus boarding doesnt use a full range of motion, most of the time its a mid range, meaning a smaller stretch and its quite difficult to overload.
Im still not back 100%, so I cant compare that fully yet, but wanted to throw it out maybe it starts an interesting discussion. I would now do campus training on the day I do endurance and not max power
I think in other videos Emil has said campus boarding wasn't very important to strength gains and that his campus boarding improved when he stopped doing it and focused on other things
Just in the middle of trying to break past 7b/v8. When I say middle 2 years stuck, I train either too hard not enough. Don’t eat or eat and supplement 😂. Your videos come from a great perspective and I like the fact you speak the hard truths. Respect 🫡 finally a training routine looks decent I will give it a go! I have tried my fair share. Only question is do you have 1 rest day after each 3 day routine?
wait, you have been trying to break past v8 for two years and you didn't try making a training routine?
@@gaborieli climb 8b (if i project prob harder) and 8a boulder in 4,5 years of climbing, and i trained totally random and do what i feel, who i have to listen to climb hard? Lattice training? They probably climb less than me...
@@lucaa4480 First of all I did not mean that as an offense and it wasn't directed to you. Second of all, I am not saying that you have to listen to anybody, but that if you have tried everything except having a training routine for two years, maybe that's what you have to do. Our nervous system, muscles and most importantly tendons need constant stimulus in order to make adaptations. You might be giving your nervous system constant stimulus in order to learn good technique, but if you are not giving your muscles and/or tendons constant stimulus in order for them to adapt, it is more likely that you will plateau at some point. You definitely have natural talent for climbing as you climb 8b, but if you get stuck on a grade, it might be more because you don't have a training routine rather than just not climbing enough.
@@gaborielbut what do you mean with training routine? I usually go to the gym like 3 times a week and 2 days a week i climb outside. When i go to the gym i try things at my limit on the moonboard and hangboard and things like that (weighted pull ups ecc), i would like to train better like with a japan wall or a kilter board but my shitty gym doesn't have one), but i do those things totally random, i only listen to myself on how many hours spend on the moonbaord or on the bestmaker, and maybe a monday i'm doing moonboard maybe the next one i'm doing weighted pull ups. My only concern is about the resting because i climb nonstop for like 3 hours on the moonboard 😅
@@lucaa4480 bro, again, I wasn't talking to you
First 24 seconds “RAAGH,AAAGH,EUAAAGH”