If you plant miscanthus in low drain areas, drainage ditches or get it to lay down in water it will grow longer and every node will start producing new grace. This way you would be able to continue your growth for free. I have been harvesting miscanthus for skep baskets . Living here in Japan outskirts of Tokyo. It grows well everywhere more rapidly in wet lands. Thank you for sharing.
I currently have two different plots of Miscanthus that are both coming in to their fourth year and I'd have to disagree with a few things mentioned here. There is no way you'd need 5 rows of Miscanthus for a screen. I have 2 rows and you could probable get away with one row when they are mature. They get thick, like a bush that grows to 8ft and then tassels out a lot higher. The cost for Miscanthus is up front so it seems high, but once it is growing you don't have to do anything to it. It will outpace weed growth and live for 20 plus years with no spraying needed. It's a pain to plant each root one by one but once you're done you don't have to worry about it ever again. There's no maintenance with the Miscanthus so the cost is actually a lot better than you think. the biggest reason I have it is because in February when the snow and ice is heavy, Miscanthus will not fall down. It would have 6 foot stalks with 9 foot tassels at a year and half too, based on my plantings. It's a good tool for screening and I'm going to get more this coming season. I like the content you put out and I just thought I'd share my experience with my Miscanthus.
THANK YOU Nick! Jeff don’t sell it so he’s not gonna promote it. He’s also more experienced with what works in the north. What works up north don’t always work down south.
Jeff's knowledge of the big picture is unrivaled. But I will be trying Miscanthus this year. I just believe the height, density, & rigidity is superior to NWSG. Many guys in North are claiming excellent height after 3 years. I am not planting a huge area so I think it's worth the extra work & expense for a better quality screen that will not lay down with heavy snow & general winter precipitation. Love your content & wisdom. My #1 UA-camr!
Question: What differs between planting strategies for destination plots and transition plots? Size, shape, corn?, brassica?, winter rye? Stand appropriateness? Thanks!!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 it has help me a lot being the first year I have been taking archery more serous from watching your videos and trying to apply them to the property we went from having 3-5 buck that were 2-4 years old to 8-10 bucks in the same age class.
Couple points. Miscanthus will stand much better than switch. Here a foot of snow will flatten switch. To reduce cost space it at 10 to 15 feet in staggered rows. Fertilize it and provide weed control, 3 years you will have screen.
I just ordered Northwood whitetails screening blend because I'm in the process now of dropping trees didn't want to invest in switchgrass yet until I know how much sun will hit the area. I can't wait to get going!
Hey just a suggestion. The new video room needs some sound dampening, it’s tinny sounding. I know your plate is very full just wanted to let you know. Ps I’ve used some miscanthus near a pod stand to cover my exit down the ladder. Planted rhizomes of the miscanthus. It works great for the but would suck to try to make and entire fence of screening. Thanks for covering this topic.
It’s best to use a combination a nswg varieties of similar heights, don’t be fearful as diversity in blends do better in inclement weather especially in snow, you are on to something thinking about both those options!
Jeff, Two questions. Can you seed switchgrass in buckwheat, roll down the buckwheat and spray it? Two; will switchgrass grow in a field edge next to a woods?
So to add to my comment I want to make sure that I'm not saying that Jeff Sturgis doesn't know what he's doing I just think that this information is giving is slightly misleading if you figure in all the cost of spraying two to three times and the time it takes to do all the spring for switchgrass you have to add that into the cost of that planting also even if that switchgrass reaches that 7-ft height which I've not seen it get that tall normally at that height it is never going to be dense enough to offer the cover that the 7-ft guy needs at 7 ft switchgrass becomes very sparse also you cannot transplant switchgrass you could dig it out of the ground and replant but the roof base will never expand it'll stay the same size so there's far more conversation needed before you would rule out mechanicus grass is far as a cost-effective planning far more versatile
Hey Jeff love your videos! It’s changed the way I hunt for the better. I wish you could make a video on south eastern habitat in relation to the rut food plots etc.
I had planted miscanthus near the 45th parallel and year two was over 6’ tall. The plantings in your videos were not planted correctly too far apart, not enough rows and they didn’t take care of the weeds. Very similar to switch it’s finnicky until established. Would I plant in place of switch no, but it has its place. I have a hard time gettin* switch to get tall enough to work as a screen.
I admittedly wanted to 'hate' this video - but I must say, well done. So many folks want to cap on MG because it's non-native. I appreciate discussions that discuss having a need for various tools in the kit. Having said all that, I really want to establish some switch for screens - but I've failed twice. Felt like I was attentive to preparation too - just failed. The MG I've used on a limited basis turned out super - by year 2; but I'm in Southern Michigan with good soil so that probably helps. Gonna keep working at the switch!
Hi Kip! Curious what has gone wrong with the switch? As long as you get good seed and control weeds it is really bullet proof. MG is great for limited applications for sure! As far as non native I probably feel the same way that you do. Haven't seen it spread on lands now since I first saw it in 08. If it doesn't spread - who cares? Appreciate it Kip!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I had a guy that supposedly plants a bunch of SG try it the first time - just saw nothing, and when I tried it myself in another area, nothing. I don't know if the seed wasn't stratified enough or if weeds got the better of it or if the area was too wet and maybe I need to try Kanlow vs. CIR? I really don't know, but switchgrass is becoming a 4-letter word for me! LOL. I'm having Elliot help me with some this time so hopefully we'll get it to work.
I bet Elliot will be of help! Really pulling for you...I'm sure there is something! Very critical to hit with simazine pre spring green up...just 3 quarts per acre...no more than that. Then 1 pint 2-4D and 2 quarts gltphosate combined when weeds are 8-12" high in the Spring. Mow if needed to control weeds in late July. Look for high germ rates on the seed bag...for example John Komp only seems high germ rates seed. I've seen some labels as low as 41% germ rate which doesn't help. The stated germ rate is soft seed...John's current is 62%. BuT, his also includes 28% hard seed. The hard seed needs to be stratified...not the stated germ rate which is soft seed. We going into great detail in this Saturday's video...really hope it helps!
I live in northern Michigan and GM grows great for me. I do not like the pieces as much as I love the clusters. My clusters grew over 7 feet within first year ( 0"- 84") with the peaks over 10' but this takes a long time to plant all done by hand. However, this can be split down the road leading to producing it for just labor. If trying this, definitely shoot for more sun then less sun areas. Good luck hunting!
@@aronalvord Mine is all standing nice. We've gotten a couple snowstorms recently and it didn't fall down at all. For that reason alone I'd rather have it than switchgrass.
The Northwoods Screen is a royal PITA, getting rid of it the following year makes it a no go in my book. I'll stick with egyptian wheat, works just as good and stands all winter.
Jeff, do you tend to spray Simazine the second year of the switchgrass plot if it came in sparsely? Part of my planting last year came in like gang busters but in a couple of locations nearby it came in fairly sparsely.
Good morning Jeff, New York state as of Jan 1 2020 we can no longer use simazine without the applicators license, I found a product called PROWL, is that a viable option for me to use over my switchgrass, it is a Pre-Emergent, im just not familiar with how long its active and so on, just seeing if youve heard of it? Thank you for all your information
Good morning Jayson! That is a real bummer to hear...first I have heard of that for a particular state. I have also not used or am familiar with Prowl. I will have to do some investigation! Thanks for the heads up, really appreciate it!
Jayson, I’m a consultant in New York. I believe there were limitations on specific counties in ny, and in those counties you need a license. There are alternatives of course, use of gly during dormancy, but just prior to soil temps reaching 55 and a post chemical such as paramount for grass once plants reach 3 leaf stage. There are alternative to that as well. Best of luck!
I'm sure you have had a similar question in the past, but what type of switchgrass do you recommend planting for cover? You're a huge proponent of switchgrass, but aren't there different varieties? If so, what specific species do you recommend planting?
Consider a forestry mulcher to manage or establish trails, then chainsaw work! Stump applications of herbicide manage alder easily be cautious of federal or state restrictions on the mentioned options!
Hey I have a Question. Last year I planted the HD screening from Northwoods whitetail and was wondering if I could broadcast switch grass into that dead screening this spring and go through and knock the screen down over top of the switch seed? Will it still germinate? Will I still need to spray chemical this first year?
HI Jeff, What do you recommend for screening in the woods? I was thinking of planting Norway Spruce to screen my house from the woods, and planting it along my East border to screen my land from the neighbors, and partially up my West border to screen my access. Also if i do screen my neighbors, should I leave a tree or two out to let deer through where I want them to come through, or would have have a negative affect as my neighbor could then hunt that same trail coming onto my land?
I haven’t seen you make a video yet on how to create a bedding area from scratch. assuming you have a 4-10 acre area of flat open ground. What would you do to create the best possible bedding area that includes thermal cover? What would you put there? Would you add oaks into it or apple trees for forage? How would you lay it out etc
Where do you buy your switchgrass? Trying to find cheap quality options. Some of the ones I have found seem way more expensive than what you say it should cost on your videos.
Good info! I've seen some other videos where you had tried a combination of switchgrass and Egyptian Wheat, only to have the switchgrass overtaken. I'm recognizing many things I've done wrong in the past, one of them being lack of screening. I'm basically too late late to the game this year of being able to frost seed switch grass, so I'm planning to experiment this year exclusively using Egyptian Wheat, with the idea that if I like the location, I'll frost seed switchgrass into it for the following year, while also having the flexibility to shift the screening location if I choose to do so. Just planning ahead, but curious how your success has been when frost seeding switchgrass into Egyptian wheat and any tips you might have.
What you are showing there looks like some type of ornamental grass...not Miscanthus Giganteus . I have Miscanthus Grass planted on my property and its 10'-12' tall and every stem coming from the root ball is in that height range. I would say that he was sold some grasses that were misrepresented. Google images....looks like Pampas Grass
I have a 5 acre old field that I need to hide from a neighbors tower blind. This was helpful to hear the discussion. Will switchgrass grow in an old field that has a lot of spotted knapweed? What chemical will treat that invasive?
Jeff - if soil wasn't prepared last fall, could a person plant switch grass using the no till buckwheat strategy? I am doing a 4 acre area broken up in to 4 plots with screening inbetween plots and am planting the whole field in buckwheat. Thanks
Jeff, first I enjoy your videos immensely. As usual there is a lot of useful information. Still this one makes me laugh. It somewhat looks like a cheap infomercial for switch grass. The photos of miscanthus appear to be only four months old with no weed control. Not even close to what my stand looks like. In the winter of 2019 I dug out a stand of nine clumps and dropped them on the ground five feet away. They still grew up to four feet last year without being replanted. I agree that if I had ground where I didn’t need the twenty feet wide section for a plot, switchgrass could be a great means for screening. However I don’t have that option. My options for screening are only five to ten feet wide so I planted miscanthus in one area and cave n rock in the wider area. After four years of growth the miscanthus reached eight to nine feet tall with the clumps out to around two feet diameter. The switchgrass growth is up to only four feet in full sun light. Last spring I planted switchgrass again in a third area (7‘wide) by fall it was only six to eight inches tall. Hopefully it will shoot up this year. I believe the Cave n Rock is great when you have a lot of room but for narrow screening needs the Miscanthus Giganteus is best for long term needs.
How do you work with depth of cover, food plots, and layering bedding on an odd shaped property such as a "w" of narrow ravines leading to a main valley?
Jeff, with miscanthus being kind of a pain to establish in wisconsin I have been looking into other options. I was wondering if you have ever tried using thuja arborvitae or silky willow shrubs as a screen?
Silky willow shrub lines work great if your looking for planting shrubs! Deer don’t typically browse on silky shrubs compared to other willow shrub varieties!
What about in North West Wisconsin? I am not sure that switchgrass would grow well enough in the sandy soil. I tried egyptian wheat last year and the bear rolled it down.
I've seen great switchgrass into the UP of MI, Northern WI...mostly Cave In Rock. It grows in most soils and you can boost it with 40#s of nitrogen per acre.
I’m so looking forward to prepping the land for the upcoming season pretty cool adding fruit trees gonna be fun planting them decided to go with a variety of at least 8 crabapple/ pears the trick is the pollination also gonna clean up some of the hinge cutting spraying possibly end of April herbicides also when timing is right going to apply liquid lime/fertilizer as well as liquid calcium this is all new to me use to the bags but no more tired of humping them to location so as you can see plenty on the plate
I have never needed to mow because I hit mine with chemicals and plant it with chemicals...maybe some day? If mowing tho...May is a great time! I know someone that is very successful using his zero turn when switch and weeds are not too high.
Jeff, Whats your feeling on using phragmites as a screening for deer? Have you ever used it? Seems to stand up all winter and can get as tall as egyptian wheat.
Actually not true at all, in any way, whatsoever. Switch is a perennial...1 time planting and will last for decades with extremely low maintenance levels.
Its supposed to be perennial but if you read the comments and talk to others SG plantings fail frequently. So in a sense if you keep trying to get it to establish then yes it can be an annual planting as so many have discovered. But that helps the seed companies make more profits so why not promote the hell out of it, right?
Hey Jeff I love this video style where it's almost like a podcast. Might be a good way to make videos and answer lots of questions. Keep it up I love all the great advice!
Content is good, I prefer the single voice videos with just Jeff. The audio quality isn't as good with the callers and I'd rather just hear Jeff's recommendations without the back and forth dialog. I like the questions though. I might just read the questions and answer them instead of doing a group thing.
I'm afraid these two guys are not thinking about the long-term overall big picture a planting of the giant grass is far more cost-effective than anything else you can do for instance after the third year you can start breaking this Grass up and replanting it in other areas. The root base doubles in size every year it is very easy to get started spray till and plant your rhizome it is as easy as that so a good switchgrass planning will not grow eight feet I've never seen it that high. And also switchgrass will take 3 years to get established the rhizome of the giant grass will be four to five feet the first year as far as comparing it to a Norway spruce or any other Wintergreen type tree how many years do you have to wait a pine tree will take at least 7 to 10 years to be tall enough and wide enough to do any good and most these trees in a high deer density will get chewed up by the deer the deer do not touch the giant grass if you are looking for a cost savings and long-term solution the giant grass is far more cost-effective as you plan it one time you can continually split the rhizomes. The more you split the rhizones and agitate the root base the better it grows caution you cannot plan it in a wet area
Jeff, wondering if anyone is experiencing Marestail weed that is RU resistance. We are battling this especially in the switchgrass and bean areas. thanks, Bob
Been battling marestail around pond banks. Went to county extension office and was told it needs to be roughed up to break open the wax stem so chemicals can penetrate. They roots can go 6foot deep. I drag a section of fence with weight on it behind tractor goo around pond one way couple of times then reverse direction then spray. It works well. Good luck
It doesn't spread...and there is nothing else like Miscanthus, actually. Do your homework before making a comment please 👍 BTW, the home you live in is a non native species...the clothes you wear, the car you drive. Be a little more realistic....
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 being realistic is planting natives that actually belong and still do the same work as miscanthus. I’ve done my homework, a lot of it, exactly about this. I agree with a lot of your info and techniques. All the other crap about what we live in being nonnative is irrelevant to the argument on top of being just wrong. How about don’t be a dick next time👍🏼
@@Jay-hu1pc Ronny we use Shawnee in NY where folks get heavy snow loads. Great option and your are best served planting a nswg blend that has similar height.
If you plant miscanthus in low drain areas, drainage ditches or get it to lay down in water it will grow longer and every node will start producing new grace. This way you would be able to continue your growth for free. I have been harvesting miscanthus for skep baskets . Living here in Japan outskirts of Tokyo. It grows well everywhere more rapidly in wet lands. Thank you for sharing.
Very cool experience Timothy...thank you!
Thanks Jeff👍 Appreciate the content as always, and like this format also. Have a great day all!
Thanks Mike I appreciate that...hope you have a great day too!
This style of video was really cool. And I learned quite a bit
I currently have two different plots of Miscanthus that are both coming in to their fourth year and I'd have to disagree with a few things mentioned here. There is no way you'd need 5 rows of Miscanthus for a screen. I have 2 rows and you could probable get away with one row when they are mature. They get thick, like a bush that grows to 8ft and then tassels out a lot higher.
The cost for Miscanthus is up front so it seems high, but once it is growing you don't have to do anything to it. It will outpace weed growth and live for 20 plus years with no spraying needed. It's a pain to plant each root one by one but once you're done you don't have to worry about it ever again. There's no maintenance with the Miscanthus so the cost is actually a lot better than you think.
the biggest reason I have it is because in February when the snow and ice is heavy, Miscanthus will not fall down.
It would have 6 foot stalks with 9 foot tassels at a year and half too, based on my plantings. It's a good tool for screening and I'm going to get more this coming season. I like the content you put out and I just thought I'd share my experience with my Miscanthus.
THANK YOU Nick! Jeff don’t sell it so he’s not gonna promote it. He’s also more experienced with what works in the north. What works up north don’t always work down south.
Jeff's knowledge of the big picture is unrivaled. But I will be trying Miscanthus this year. I just believe the height, density, & rigidity is superior to NWSG. Many guys in North are claiming excellent height after 3 years. I am not planting a huge area so I think it's worth the extra work & expense for a better quality screen that will not lay down with heavy snow & general winter precipitation. Love your content & wisdom. My #1 UA-camr!
This is a question answer perfectly with solid backing of knowledge
Question: What differs between planting strategies for destination plots and transition plots? Size, shape, corn?, brassica?, winter rye? Stand appropriateness? Thanks!!
Great format. Enjoy hearing the discussions around various topics.
Great video as always. Thank you or taking the to make these videos. I’m always learning from them
Really appreciate you watching Carver! You are very welcome and hoping the video helps a lot out!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 it has help me a lot being the first year I have been taking archery more serous from watching your videos and trying to apply them to the property we went from having 3-5 buck that were 2-4 years old to 8-10 bucks in the same age class.
Couple points. Miscanthus will stand much better than switch. Here a foot of snow will flatten switch. To reduce cost space it at 10 to 15 feet in staggered rows. Fertilize it and provide weed control, 3 years you will have screen.
Exactly. If they don’t sell it they don’t promote it.
I just ordered Northwood whitetails screening blend because I'm in the process now of dropping trees didn't want to invest in switchgrass yet until I know how much sun will hit the area. I can't wait to get going!
Hey just a suggestion. The new video room needs some sound dampening, it’s tinny sounding. I know your plate is very full just wanted to let you know.
Ps I’ve used some miscanthus near a pod stand to cover my exit down the ladder. Planted rhizomes of the miscanthus. It works great for the but would suck to try to make and entire fence of screening. Thanks for covering this topic.
What are your thoughts on Shawnee switch grass vs Cave n Rock switch grass?
It’s best to use a combination a nswg varieties of similar heights, don’t be fearful as diversity in blends do better in inclement weather especially in snow, you are on to something thinking about both those options!
Jeff, Two questions. Can you seed switchgrass in buckwheat, roll down the buckwheat and spray it? Two; will switchgrass grow in a field edge next to a woods?
So to add to my comment I want to make sure that I'm not saying that Jeff Sturgis doesn't know what he's doing I just think that this information is giving is slightly misleading if you figure in all the cost of spraying two to three times and the time it takes to do all the spring for switchgrass you have to add that into the cost of that planting also even if that switchgrass reaches that 7-ft height which I've not seen it get that tall normally at that height it is never going to be dense enough to offer the cover that the 7-ft guy needs at 7 ft switchgrass becomes very sparse also you cannot transplant switchgrass you could dig it out of the ground and replant but the roof base will never expand it'll stay the same size so there's far more conversation needed before you would rule out mechanicus grass is far as a cost-effective planning far more versatile
I totally agree!
Hey Jeff love your videos! It’s changed the way I hunt for the better. I wish you could make a video on south eastern habitat in relation to the rut food plots etc.
I had planted miscanthus near the 45th parallel and year two was over 6’ tall. The plantings in your videos were not planted correctly too far apart, not enough rows and they didn’t take care of the weeds. Very similar to switch it’s finnicky until established. Would I plant in place of switch no, but it has its place. I have a hard time gettin* switch to get tall enough to work as a screen.
I admittedly wanted to 'hate' this video - but I must say, well done. So many folks want to cap on MG because it's non-native. I appreciate discussions that discuss having a need for various tools in the kit. Having said all that, I really want to establish some switch for screens - but I've failed twice. Felt like I was attentive to preparation too - just failed. The MG I've used on a limited basis turned out super - by year 2; but I'm in Southern Michigan with good soil so that probably helps. Gonna keep working at the switch!
Hi Kip! Curious what has gone wrong with the switch? As long as you get good seed and control weeds it is really bullet proof.
MG is great for limited applications for sure!
As far as non native I probably feel the same way that you do. Haven't seen it spread on lands now since I first saw it in 08. If it doesn't spread - who cares?
Appreciate it Kip!
Nice new segment introducing Dylan and having guests call in pretty cool stuff
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I had a guy that supposedly plants a bunch of SG try it the first time - just saw nothing, and when I tried it myself in another area, nothing. I don't know if the seed wasn't stratified enough or if weeds got the better of it or if the area was too wet and maybe I need to try Kanlow vs. CIR? I really don't know, but switchgrass is becoming a 4-letter word for me! LOL. I'm having Elliot help me with some this time so hopefully we'll get it to work.
Thanks a lot Steve...really appreciate it, we hope to make a regular format for a portion of the videos if folks like!
I bet Elliot will be of help! Really pulling for you...I'm sure there is something!
Very critical to hit with simazine pre spring green up...just 3 quarts per acre...no more than that. Then 1 pint 2-4D and 2 quarts gltphosate combined when weeds are 8-12" high in the Spring. Mow if needed to control weeds in late July.
Look for high germ rates on the seed bag...for example John Komp only seems high germ rates seed. I've seen some labels as low as 41% germ rate which doesn't help. The stated germ rate is soft seed...John's current is 62%. BuT, his also includes 28% hard seed. The hard seed needs to be stratified...not the stated germ rate which is soft seed. We going into great detail in this Saturday's video...really hope it helps!
I live in northern Michigan and GM grows great for me. I do not like the pieces as much as I love the clusters. My clusters grew over 7 feet within first year ( 0"- 84") with the peaks over 10' but this takes a long time to plant all done by hand. However, this can be split down the road leading to producing it for just labor. If trying this, definitely shoot for more sun then less sun areas. Good luck hunting!
It does great for me in southern Michigan too
@@nickrumsey3094 how's yours holding up in the freezing rain...about 80% still standing...impressed cuz we are getting dumped on!
@@aronalvord Mine is all standing nice. We've gotten a couple snowstorms recently and it didn't fall down at all. For that reason alone I'd rather have it than switchgrass.
Great information Jeff . I hope all is well with you and your family. Looking to purchase one of your WHS hats , did not see any in your store .
The Northwoods Screen is a royal PITA, getting rid of it the following year makes it a no go in my book. I'll stick with egyptian wheat, works just as good and stands all winter.
Jeff, do you tend to spray Simazine the second year of the switchgrass plot if it came in sparsely? Part of my planting last year came in like gang busters but in a couple of locations nearby it came in fairly sparsely.
Love these I’m learning so much. I planned to frost seed switch this year but have had ft of snow since dec have I missed my window?zone5 NY
Good morning Jeff, New York state as of Jan 1 2020 we can no longer use simazine without the applicators license, I found a product called PROWL, is that a viable option for me to use over my switchgrass, it is a Pre-Emergent, im just not familiar with how long its active and so on, just seeing if youve heard of it? Thank you for all your information
Good morning Jayson! That is a real bummer to hear...first I have heard of that for a particular state. I have also not used or am familiar with Prowl. I will have to do some investigation! Thanks for the heads up, really appreciate it!
Jayson, I’m a consultant in New York. I believe there were limitations on specific counties in ny, and in those counties you need a license. There are alternatives of course, use of gly during dormancy, but just prior to soil temps reaching 55 and a post chemical such as paramount for grass once plants reach 3 leaf stage. There are alternative to that as well. Best of luck!
I'm sure you have had a similar question in the past, but what type of switchgrass do you recommend planting for cover? You're a huge proponent of switchgrass, but aren't there different varieties? If so, what specific species do you recommend planting?
Jeff would you still try and design a parcel so that everything flows in a loop with a river splitting it in half or 2 separate movement chains?
Hi Jeff, I was wondering if you could do a video discussing tag alder thickets and how to effectively control/hunt them on a property?
Hi Jacob we have some swamp land related videos when I comes to bedding, but we definitely need to cover that at some point!
Consider a forestry mulcher to manage or establish trails, then chainsaw work! Stump applications of herbicide manage alder easily be cautious of federal or state restrictions on the mentioned options!
Hey I have a Question. Last year I planted the HD screening from Northwoods whitetail and was wondering if I could broadcast switch grass into that dead screening this spring and go through and knock the screen down over top of the switch seed? Will it still germinate? Will I still need to spray chemical this first year?
HI Jeff, What do you recommend for screening in the woods? I was thinking of planting Norway Spruce to screen my house from the woods, and planting it along my East border to screen my land from the neighbors, and partially up my West border to screen my access. Also if i do screen my neighbors, should I leave a tree or two out to let deer through where I want them to come through, or would have have a negative affect as my neighbor could then hunt that same trail coming onto my land?
I haven’t seen you make a video yet on how to create a bedding area from scratch. assuming you have a 4-10 acre area of flat open ground. What would you do to create the best possible bedding area that includes thermal cover? What would you put there? Would you add oaks into it or apple trees for forage? How would you lay it out etc
Where do you buy your switchgrass? Trying to find cheap quality options. Some of the ones I have found seem way more expensive than what you say it should cost on your videos.
Osenbaugh Prairie Seed Farm in IA. Cave in Rock is $13/lb for under 50lbs. $10/lb for over 50lbs. Good folks, good seed.
Good info! I've seen some other videos where you had tried a combination of switchgrass and Egyptian Wheat, only to have the switchgrass overtaken. I'm recognizing many things I've done wrong in the past, one of them being lack of screening. I'm basically too late late to the game this year of being able to frost seed switch grass, so I'm planning to experiment this year exclusively using Egyptian Wheat, with the idea that if I like the location, I'll frost seed switchgrass into it for the following year, while also having the flexibility to shift the screening location if I choose to do so. Just planning ahead, but curious how your success has been when frost seeding switchgrass into Egyptian wheat and any tips you might have.
What you are showing there looks like some type of ornamental grass...not Miscanthus Giganteus . I have Miscanthus Grass planted on my property and its 10'-12' tall and every stem coming from the root ball is in that height range. I would say that he was sold some grasses that were misrepresented.
Google images....looks like Pampas Grass
I have a 5 acre old field that I need to hide from a neighbors tower blind. This was helpful to hear the discussion. Will switchgrass grow in an old field that has a lot of spotted knapweed? What chemical will treat that invasive?
Jeff - if soil wasn't prepared last fall, could a person plant switch grass using the no till buckwheat strategy? I am doing a 4 acre area broken up in to 4 plots with screening inbetween plots and am planting the whole field in buckwheat. Thanks
Jeff, first I enjoy your videos immensely. As usual there is a lot of useful information. Still this one makes me laugh. It somewhat looks like a cheap infomercial for switch grass. The photos of miscanthus appear to be only four months old with no weed control. Not even close to what my stand looks like. In the winter of 2019 I dug out a stand of nine clumps and dropped them on the ground five feet away. They still grew up to four feet last year without being replanted. I agree that if I had ground where I didn’t need the twenty feet wide section for a plot, switchgrass could be a great means for screening. However I don’t have that option. My options for screening are only five to ten feet wide so I planted miscanthus in one area and cave n rock in the wider area. After four years of growth the miscanthus reached eight to nine feet tall with the clumps out to around two feet diameter. The switchgrass growth is up to only four feet in full sun light. Last spring I planted switchgrass again in a third area (7‘wide) by fall it was only six to eight inches tall. Hopefully it will shoot up this year. I believe the Cave n Rock is great when you have a lot of room but for narrow screening needs the Miscanthus Giganteus is best for long term needs.
How long would it take in your opinion to grow switchgrass in southeastern oklahoma?
2 years for a very solid stand of 4 to 5'+, depending on soil and amount of weeds
Hey is it worth putting in watering holes on a property that has a creek that runs through it? It’s a 74 Acre piece of land.
How do you work with depth of cover, food plots, and layering bedding on an odd shaped property such as a "w" of narrow ravines leading to a main valley?
Jeff, with miscanthus being kind of a pain to establish in wisconsin I have been looking into other options. I was wondering if you have ever tried using thuja arborvitae or silky willow shrubs as a screen?
Silky willow shrub lines work great if your looking for planting shrubs! Deer don’t typically browse on silky shrubs compared to other willow shrub varieties!
What about establishing switch side by side with NW plot screen? Will the switch be shaded too much if it is north of the plot screen?
What about in North West Wisconsin? I am not sure that switchgrass would grow well enough in the sandy soil. I tried egyptian wheat last year and the bear rolled it down.
I've seen great switchgrass into the UP of MI, Northern WI...mostly Cave In Rock. It grows in most soils and you can boost it with 40#s of nitrogen per acre.
Cool video hoping the switchgrass takes this season 👍
Thanks Paul...and me too!!
I’m so looking forward to prepping the land for the upcoming season pretty cool adding fruit trees gonna be fun planting them decided to go with a variety of at least 8 crabapple/ pears the trick is the pollination also gonna clean up some of the hinge cutting spraying possibly end of April herbicides also when timing is right going to apply liquid lime/fertilizer as well as liquid calcium this is all new to me use to the bags but no more tired of humping them to location so as you can see plenty on the plate
Can you do a video about hog intrusion on whitetail properties for the southerners?
Maybe some day! Would be a good call in discussion
Have you tried Shawnee or Chippewa Switchgrass?
Do you guys mow your switch grass a certain time
I have never needed to mow because I hit mine with chemicals and plant it with chemicals...maybe some day?
If mowing tho...May is a great time! I know someone that is very successful using his zero turn when switch and weeds are not too high.
Jeff, Whats your feeling on using phragmites as a screening for deer? Have you ever used it? Seems to stand up all winter and can get as tall as egyptian wheat.
Miscanthus giganteus grass is 1 time plant switch grass is every year
Actually not true at all, in any way, whatsoever. Switch is a perennial...1 time planting and will last for decades with extremely low maintenance levels.
Its supposed to be perennial but if you read the comments and talk to others SG plantings fail frequently. So in a sense if you keep trying to get it to establish then yes it can be an annual planting as so many have discovered. But that helps the seed companies make more profits so why not promote the hell out of it, right?
At 7 foot no need for tree stand lol talk about fast setup .. Great show brother ..
Hey Jeff I love this video style where it's almost like a podcast. Might be a good way to make videos and answer lots of questions.
Keep it up I love all the great advice!
Content is good, I prefer the single voice videos with just Jeff. The audio quality isn't as good with the callers and I'd rather just hear Jeff's recommendations without the back and forth dialog. I like the questions though. I might just read the questions and answer them instead of doing a group thing.
How can I get on a call!
I'm afraid these two guys are not thinking about the long-term overall big picture a planting of the giant grass is far more cost-effective than anything else you can do for instance after the third year you can start breaking this Grass up and replanting it in other areas. The root base doubles in size every year it is very easy to get started spray till and plant your rhizome it is as easy as that so a good switchgrass planning will not grow eight feet I've never seen it that high. And also switchgrass will take 3 years to get established the rhizome of the giant grass will be four to five feet the first year as far as comparing it to a Norway spruce or any other Wintergreen type tree how many years do you have to wait a pine tree will take at least 7 to 10 years to be tall enough and wide enough to do any good and most these trees in a high deer density will get chewed up by the deer the deer do not touch the giant grass if you are looking for a cost savings and long-term solution the giant grass is far more cost-effective as you plan it one time you can continually split the rhizomes. The more you split the rhizones and agitate the root base the better it grows caution you cannot plan it in a wet area
Well said Timothy!
Jeff, wondering if anyone is experiencing Marestail weed that is RU resistance. We are battling this especially in the switchgrass and bean areas. thanks, Bob
Yes especially in Ag fields, 2-4d or dicamba would be a better option
Thanks Aaron. I think I may try 2-4-d combined with RU and just allow a month before I expect germination in the food plot.
Been battling marestail around pond banks. Went to county extension office and was told it needs to be roughed up to break open the wax stem so chemicals can penetrate. They roots can go 6foot deep. I drag a section of fence with weight on it behind tractor goo around pond one way couple of times then reverse direction then spray. It works well. Good luck
Thanks will give it a try...
Dicamba is your best bet
That looks like pampas grass in this video.
Wow. I can get miscanthis for 3 bucks a root from a nursery. You guys are high.
Exactly. Bingo! 🎯
Disregard Question below. I stopped the video literally ten seconds short of the answer to ask the question, lol.
🤣
Sorry , I found you guys talk a little to long and not getting to a question. I got really bored .
It's non-native and invasive, so don't plant it. I'm trying to control it on my property in VA.
You can dig it up and sell the rhizomes and make a fortune. Its in high demand and bringing good money.
Stop bringing in nonnative species. We have natives that already do the job
It doesn't spread...and there is nothing else like Miscanthus, actually. Do your homework before making a comment please 👍
BTW, the home you live in is a non native species...the clothes you wear, the car you drive. Be a little more realistic....
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 being realistic is planting natives that actually belong and still do the same work as miscanthus. I’ve done my homework, a lot of it, exactly about this. I agree with a lot of your info and techniques. All the other crap about what we live in being nonnative is irrelevant to the argument on top of being just wrong. How about don’t be a dick next time👍🏼
Do you have a go to brand of switch grass?
In most of the Midwest it is Cave in Rock...you never want to buy someone's mix - only the seed variety appropriate for your area.
How about the Shawnee switchgrass Jeff? I have heard it may stand up to our heavy snow and long winters better in Mn?
@@Jay-hu1pc Ronny we use Shawnee in NY where folks get heavy snow loads. Great option and your are best served planting a nswg blend that has similar height.