Building an Adjustable Tension Board
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2022
- I really wanted to add a systems board to my business facility at Mountain Movement, but since I only have 11 foot ceilings I was compelled to think outside the box. We made an adjustable board not just at the angle of the wall, but also weather or not to utilize the last 3 rows of the board. At less than 35 degrees my space didn’t work for a full board, but it did have enough space for a 1-15 set up. We put the last 3 rows on a hinge so we can fold it back to use the board at 20-35 degrees. Then when it reaches 40 or more degrees we flip the top up and have full board access. This thing is pretty solid and I haven’t seen anyone else use the board in this way. I’d be interested in what you all think!
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I'm just glad you still have all your fingers my dude.
That was sheer Luck...! Please stay save and learn how to operate your tools savely. Nice build though! :)
Nice setup. A tablesaw blade can be lowered up and down, making it much more safe to just push across instead of holding the wood like that.
100% please don’t use your table saws like this, lower the blade and ideally use a cross sled to push the wood across
My ass puckered so hard when I saw this...dear lord that was scary.
Came here to say this. Great way to flatten your nose
Awesome! I hope you're having a lot of fun with this
Nice job on the wall, and I hope you're enjoying it! Would you mind giving an update on how it has held up? Anything you'd have done differently now that you've had it for a year?
Thanks! It held up really well, I love the adjustable feature and the option to peel the top rows back so I can use it at less steep angles even though I have 11 ft ceiling. Installing the wires went a bit different than I’d imagined, but all I had to do was drill new holes in the hinge section so they can reach when the top rows are pulled back.
RE: Drilling the bolts - Pilot holes are good beta, and I'd add using a chalk grid to line everything up perfectly. I used a handheld straight edge for my first build and ended up with things slightly off, actually, but the chalk lines I used on my second build were perfectly straight (and easier to set).
RE: LED chutes - You know, honestly, I did something similar with a handheld circular saw. :-p It's just an old framing technique. But I do think the way you did it with the table saw is sketchier, as it's much harder to ensure you don't get pulled into the blade if it catches. For my next build I'm probably going to use a table saw, but with the blade set to the right height so I can just push the piece through level with the table. Maybe there's even a blade we could use that's fit for that purpose? I'm not sure…
RE: O-Rings - I'm glad to see those are working for you. (I'm sure it helps that your board is lighter 2x4 construction.) I went with through-bolted D-rings which I bought from an arborist/rigging store, simply because I was absolutely paranoid about peak forces eventually damaging the O's.
Looks awesome! Are those 2 x 6 boards for your frame? Also, do you have a link for your hinges you used?
They are 2x4 so the weight wouldn’t get out of hand when adjusting the angle. It’s a tad more wobbly than I would like but it still is solid enough even with bigger climbers on it. I don’t have a specific link for the hinges, got them at lowes, they are heavy duty though. I am quite happy with only installing 4 hinges at the base and the top section.
Is only 4 studs enough for stability? I'm working on stud spacing for mine and am looking at 7 2x8s spaced at 45mm but if less is just as stable I'd happily avoid the work.
I found 4 studs is probably fine, but if you don’t mind the wall being more heavy maybe adding an extra stud would be helpful. There is a bit of wiggle when the wall is being adjusted and it’s only only being supported by the winch. But once the chains are in place and the winch is tight the board feels pretty secure.
Can you give an estimate how much everything cost?
Tutorial on how to lose all of your fingers