I wanted to mention that you can see if this alteration works without drilling a single hole! Just do the first step of screwing the bottom of the treadle stop bar into the top hole. After that, you can test it out, if you like the results put in the other screw to secure it.
I don't have this loom but I am so happy to find you on the web. I like your problem solving ideas. I have an older Leclerc Nilart that I just finished restoring. Your sectional warping video is helping me solve some problems I encountered learning how to warp this giant loom. Keep making videos PLEASE. Thank you
Great video. Thanks! I have a David II and have always faced a similar unsatisfactory shed. It took me a couple years of regular finagling with all of the possible adjustments from top to bottom (mostly involving cords) before I finally managed to get a clean shed as well as a usable shuttle race, but I still pretty much have to repeat all the steps and readjust everything every project or so. I too have noticed that the back bar is an obvious hindrance, but I never thought to simply raise it. I am considering it now, though I'm loathe to add another variable that could affect my sheds. On the other hand, I've already drilled a couple holes in my loom, though it took a couple years to get around to it. I had a problem with the floating beater that was sold as an add-on, because it wouldn't hold a reed with enough stability that it and the reed wouldn't regularly wobble and fall apart. I guess what's a few holes if they actually make the loom useful. I miss weaving on it.
I think your video was well presented. I have had a David 3 90cm since December 2021 and am fortunate to have a 2.5" clean shed with only normal shaft adjustments. I am looking forward to watching your future videos.
I’m glad your loom is working out for you. I have been wondering if only the widest version of the David has this issue, as that seems to be a common thread. Thanks for your kind words.
Amazing first video - just perfect. I don't have a Louët loom but have been tempted. I do think that such an expensive piece of kit should work reliably, without frustration and without having to re-engineer it. I know that JS has legions of fans but it's important to remember that her UA-cam videos are advertisements not reviews.
This is very true, and Jane is a great salesperson! That said, having recently spent a lot of time trying to adjust my harnesses, even employing someone to help me, I discovered there was a factory error of the cords being too long. Also learned Louet was sending out new looms with heddles not the right size for the particular loom,
@@dianamccoy8848that's interesting. From Facebook I hear that they sometimes send out loom kits with parts missing. On the plus side I hear that they respond quickly to queries.
Trent, LOVED your video! Very interesting and I get it ! I haven't had much trouble with my David 3 (27") but perhaps the bigger guy looms present problems. I may even do this to get more oomph in my treadling 😊. Please make more videos ! Your voice is very conducive to instructing others. PS- I have a LeClerc 45" 12 shaft Colonial 2 and I may have to chat with you about that since you are familiar with LeClerc. I have had table looms from both Louet and LeClerc. Threading the LeClerc is much easier. Louet compacts their looms so much and the way the shafts are held in place on their Jane made me feel as though I was always fighting it b/c of the elastic that holds the shafts.
Thank you for your kind words.That’s interesting, I have only ever used a Structo four shaft table loom . The reason I’m looking at the Jane is to have 16 shafts. But I think Ashford makes a 16 shaft table loom as well. Either way it’s too much money for me right now, but it’s in the cards.
Wow, problem solved, cool. 👍 Thanks for figuring it out. I can not understand that Louet didn't (or didn't share, if they knew) I have one request and 2 questions. Can you give the measurements for the drill bits in writing, please? (I am German and not sure, if I understood your information correctly.) Why do I have to drill the hole twice 🙈? (I am not a woodworker ) From where do I measure the 2 inches?
When I was drilling this new hole I used the same method that was used on the original loom, the hole in the upright was bigger, I’m not sure why. The hole in the upright was drilled with a 3/16” bit and only through the upright. I continued the hole into the bar itself with a 7/64” bit. I’m sure the original holes were done in metric but I didn’t have metric bits.
I wanted to mention that you can see if this alteration works without drilling a single hole! Just do the first step of screwing the bottom of the treadle stop bar into the top hole. After that, you can test it out, if you like the results put in the other screw to secure it.
I don't have this loom but I am so happy to find you on the web. I like your problem solving ideas. I have an older Leclerc Nilart that I just finished restoring. Your sectional warping video is helping me solve some problems I encountered learning how to warp this giant loom. Keep making videos PLEASE. Thank you
Thank you so much for your comment. It means a lot.
Thanks for this! I’m going to go through Louet’s video one more time before I get out the ol’ drill driver.
Great video. Thanks! I have a David II and have always faced a similar unsatisfactory shed. It took me a couple years of regular finagling with all of the possible adjustments from top to bottom (mostly involving cords) before I finally managed to get a clean shed as well as a usable shuttle race, but I still pretty much have to repeat all the steps and readjust everything every project or so. I too have noticed that the back bar is an obvious hindrance, but I never thought to simply raise it. I am considering it now, though I'm loathe to add another variable that could affect my sheds. On the other hand, I've already drilled a couple holes in my loom, though it took a couple years to get around to it. I had a problem with the floating beater that was sold as an add-on, because it wouldn't hold a reed with enough stability that it and the reed wouldn't regularly wobble and fall apart. I guess what's a few holes if they actually make the loom useful. I miss weaving on it.
I think your video was well presented. I have had a David 3 90cm since December 2021 and am fortunate to have a 2.5" clean shed with only normal shaft adjustments. I am looking forward to watching your future videos.
I’m glad your loom is working out for you. I have been wondering if only the widest version of the David has this issue, as that seems to be a common thread. Thanks for your kind words.
Amazing first video - just perfect. I don't have a Louët loom but have been tempted. I do think that such an expensive piece of kit should work reliably, without frustration and without having to re-engineer it. I know that JS has legions of fans but it's important to remember that her UA-cam videos are advertisements not reviews.
This is very true, and Jane is a great salesperson! That said, having recently spent a lot of time trying to adjust my harnesses, even employing someone to help me, I discovered there was a factory error of the cords being too long. Also learned Louet was sending out new looms with heddles not the right size for the particular loom,
@@dianamccoy8848that's interesting. From Facebook I hear that they sometimes send out loom kits with parts missing. On the plus side I hear that they respond quickly to queries.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your "fix" with us...looks like an easy solution!!
Trent, LOVED your video! Very interesting and I get it ! I haven't had much trouble with my David 3 (27") but perhaps the bigger guy looms present problems. I may even do this to get more oomph in my treadling 😊. Please make more videos ! Your voice is very conducive to instructing others.
PS- I have a LeClerc 45" 12 shaft Colonial 2 and I may have to chat with you about that since you are familiar with LeClerc. I have had table looms from both Louet and LeClerc. Threading the LeClerc is much easier. Louet compacts their looms so much and the way the shafts are held in place on their Jane made me feel as though I was always fighting it b/c of the elastic that holds the shafts.
Thank you for your kind words.That’s interesting, I have only ever used a Structo four shaft table loom . The reason I’m looking at the Jane is to have 16 shafts. But I think Ashford makes a 16 shaft table loom as well. Either way it’s too much money for me right now, but it’s in the cards.
Brilliant Solution! Very Clearly Presented.
Wow, problem solved, cool. 👍 Thanks for figuring it out. I can not understand that Louet didn't (or didn't share, if they knew)
I have one request and 2 questions.
Can you give the measurements for the drill bits in writing, please? (I am German and not sure, if I understood your information correctly.)
Why do I have to drill the hole twice 🙈? (I am not a woodworker )
From where do I measure the 2 inches?
When I was drilling this new hole I used the same method that was used on the original loom, the hole in the upright was bigger, I’m not sure why. The hole in the upright was drilled with a 3/16” bit and only through the upright. I continued the hole into the bar itself with a 7/64” bit. I’m sure the original holes were done in metric but I didn’t have metric bits.
Thanks, Trent! Saw your post on JST forum and it looks like a great modification. See you on the forum 😉