Learn Network Cable Management Inside Rack From Scratch
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Hello everyone this is Hafiz with you and welcome to my channel.. As you can see this video is about building a network cabinet from scratch it is very important to build your network cabinet properly. If you don’t have a good network cable management strategy in place, not only your racks will look unorganized, but it can make maintenance more complicated, so i recorded this video from scratch so you can have an idea how to professionally setup network cabinet.
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Nice looking cabinet. However, I have several suggestions. First, do not use zip ties. Second, you are putting equipment in the cabinet randomly, without taking care of U units. Distances between those square holes are there for a reason. Between each U unit, which consists of 3 square holes, there is narrow interspace. Between holes which are part of certain U unit, there is wider interspace.
All pieces of equipment that you have installed has a height of 1U unit, and they have two holes on each side that will fit with top and bottom holes of U unit. If you will not install equipment exactly into U units you will have problems with screws that will not screw. This problem will be even more serious when you will be installing rack servers with rack rails that will not fit because of rails' bolts that will not overlap with rack holes. Later you will have to leave spaces just like in the video, to make things straight again.
Def. should use zip ties. If you use Velcro, some lazy asshole WILL undo it "just for a minute" and in a year, it'll look like a rats nest. Only the most outrageous asshole would cut off all those zip ties to add/remote a cable, though. Velcro is just too big a temptation for the lazy.
This is an IDF closet. No servers are going in there. Leaving spaces can improve ventilation.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d you underestimate the outrageous assholishness of people with access to the wiring closet, and their lack of a bag of zip ties. I charge people pretty good money for wire closet cleanups. I hope they have an employee that jacks it all up again - more than happy to come fix it again ... for a price ;)
@@enchantingendlers2105 in that case, you should probably leave a 1U space between rackmount devices, instead of 1/3U lol. I don't care how good his cable management is if he doesn't understand rack units.
you watched thisvideos 3 years back to complain? nah u crazy
Just as a suggestion: do not use zipties. They will likely damage the rubber coat of the cable. Use velcro or something comparable. This also makes it far easier to add/replace/remove cables from the bundle.
Agreed, you get cheap velcro (hook-and-loop tape) packs (100 stripes) for like 5 USD.
Zipties on copper - only being tightened down a REASONABLE amount - are just fine and cause no problem. They will not "likely" damage copper cabling as long as they aren't over-tightened.
I WILL give you credit on the point that using velcro makes adding and even removing cable easier. There's that.
Velcro is preferred these days but let's not get the facts twisted here, either.
@@cyrylthewolf The facts aren't twisted, because, in order to stay in place at the point you want them, zipties need to be tightened. If you prefer dangling zipties on any place but the place you want them, go for it.
Sure, you can put only a necessary amount of force into it, but how many people do this? If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere, that's completely fine (thumps up in this case).
But for inexperienced, velcro is just better, e.g. if they need to move the cable trees around.
@@alphaprot2518 - You said, "do not use zipties".
That direction is not justified as zip ties - USED CORRECTLY - are perfectly fine for copper cabling.
"zipties need to be tightened"
As does velcro...
I have no idea what you mean by "dangling zipties" as I don't have that problem. I trip the excess - as is part of the "using it correctly" deal. It's not rocket science.
" If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere"
Otherwise known as "managing cable". LOL
Velcro IS preferable. But there is NOTHING wrong with zipties if used correctly. (Again... Not hard. Doesn't really take 'experience' either. It's a freakin' ziptie.)
The point is that you're telling people "do not use zipties" without justification. Say that they're generally preferred - which seems to be accurate these days with so much more fiber hanging about in our data centers/data rooms, sure.
But don't discourage it all together. It's still an applicable method.
Ziptie master race does not concur. Ziptie everything so your users are deterred from touching things.
Neat tool, I try to get 0.10m patch cables these days and go PP, Switch, PP and flood patch, I dont like cables down the back or sides of the switches as they more often than not vent their heat in those spaces.
I have 2 rules for myself when I do cabling, 1) always use shortest possible cables; and 2) only use velcros, no cable ties.
Yes Velcro is good..
I think the reason why he used longer patch cables because if you have high-speed internet, the cat6 and cat5e cable shorter than 3 ft often create interference and crosstalk. I have 300 Mbps download speeds. As soon as I plug a cat6 cable shorter than 3 feet, the speed drop to 100 Mbps.
Yes i Agree, Because of if we arrange some additional cable we remove the Velcro and rapping again,
Sometimes the cable tie injures our hands,
1) yeah, it look nicer, but try to replace a switch without long outage time
Science and Tech so do you just need to make the cables 3’ 3”? I’m new to all this networking stuff and want to build my own.
Best video I've seen that actually shows how patch panels work in practice. Didn't realise there was that interface at the back that your twisted pairs went into until now.
Good job! 2 suggestions I could make. Use flush cutter instead of scissor to cut zip tye.. otherwise the small sharp plastic left can cut someone badly! Also you should install equipments in theirs respecting U, do not left single hole at top and space by 3 holes if needed. installing another equipment will be much easier!
very true those small sharp plastics can bring hell to the technician
Great vid!!!
Some tips for efficiency during install & as well as over time for maintenance:
1) Velcro not cable ties (both inside and outside of the cabinet)
1.1) Adding extra cables will take forever unless you make a new bundle over time.
2) The cut-off ends of the zip-tie can be very sharp, and cut you, a co-worker or could damage new cabling installed. More reason to use Velcro.
3) Use a strain relief bar behind the patch panel. This allows an easy to access gap between each cable IDC. As you are currently showing, you will work over the cables & have zero room to easily access 1x cable.
4) Rather do not use a traditional patch panel & instead get a patch panel that takes RJ45 inline couplers. Then you just make a standard RJ45 termination VS a punch down.
5) In such a small rack, space is expensive. Rather use very short cables and only occupy 2U vs 4u.
6) Create the service look behind the vertical rails. If you put a device with more depth in there, you might damage the cables.
7) Install a premade RGB strip & leave it on the company colour(s).
Thanks for giving suggestions ..
Muchas gracias, muy didáctico!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
After 5 years, it is still very instructional as are so many of the comments.
Thanks 😊
thanks for sharing this video - that was cool to watch and gave me some great ideas
Nice work! I would have installed the cabinet so it would cover the hole in the wall, where the cables come out.
Those NavePoint cabinets do not have a cable inlet in back, only bottom. They should have use some conduit.
@@LinwoodPowell The cabinet back can always be perforated! But yeah, conduit would be an alternative. I just think a nice cabinet with real neat wire management loses purpose when you have wires coming up from an ugly hole in the wall!
I think the rack would of been too low if he mounted it over the hole where the cables are coming out, but yeah that would be more appealing astetically
Ficou só o ouro!!! Muito bom!!!
Great work, I have seen lots of videos about racks and cable management, this is the one to follow 👌🏻👌🏻💪🏻😎
Very clean & nice work done !! Appreciate taking time to make the video and spreading knowledge. Good work !!
é bonito de ver um rack bem montado, tem uns ae que "cê ta Loko".
👍 I enjoyed watching, you do excellent work! Only thing I do different...I do not punch-down my cables, I install RJ45 plugs on the cabling and use a keystone bracket & pass-through jacks. Makes trouble shooting much easier...I use bigger cabinets as I install a rackmount UPS along with a rackmount surge protected power strip 😎
Great video, very detailed and yet not boring. i like velcro though compared to cable ties.
escelente buen tipppp ! 2 organizadores gooodddd
Use a modular patch panel with a lacing bar make troublshooting easier. use printed labels.
Velcro. Test all cables
Absolutely I cringe when ever I see this. Cable ties are a no no, the other thing never trim cable ties and leave tabs like that they are down right dangerous to any one reaching into the cabinet trust me. In fact some industries don't allow there use period. Hook and eye raps are the go, besides a cable tied bundle may/will fail qualification and or certification seen it before. As for the eye and hook aka velcro you can also buy it in rolls real handy. Great effort just need to lift the game a bit and yes label the cables it happens "someone" moves a cable for testing and it never goes back in the correct slot makes trouble shooting way easier especially years on. :)
and do test even the patch leads not unusual to get out of the "bag" failures just saying.
Such a cable bundle organizer is better known as a "cable comb". Really nice job though! The only remark I have is about the zipties/tiewraps. Cut them off flush, it looks little bit neater. (with a cutting tool, not with scissors)
I have used velcro in my new project video
ua-cam.com/video/fUaTtM0sMGg/v-deo.html
JazakAllah Khair Hafiz bhai...
Great job man! but i guess if you want to 'teach' good practices just 2 tips..
1.use hook and loop velcro, it is wider in general and wont pinch the cable, this wont attenuate the UTP signal.
2nd is buy a label printer, your approach might be easy on the eyes(that counts a lot), but could be a nightmare for other techs to figure out which one is which.
Good old days when i was building racks (:
Hello sir I am from Nepal I need cable organizer do you hav
Do you work at layer 3 now?
Nice video but noticed that you didn't use the U unit spaces as intended in the rack. Each U space has three square holes represented vertically. The two square holes closest to each other are the division points between each Unit.
on this cabinet, can you rack mount things to the back rails too (if there was space), or only the front?
I like your video and your installation, but I would do it a bit other way:
1. USE VELCRO STRIPS INSTEAD OF ZIP TIES. I wrote this with Caps Lock on because you overtightened these ties, deforming and damaging the cables. I've seen way too many "it sometimes work and sometimes not" network troubles caused by this. Zip ties are awesome, but not when used like this. You'll also find out velcro (or similar) strips are reusable, so it's easier to keep it nice and clean over time with adding/replacing/removing cables and everything. I am well aware many people here wrote this already, please see their comments as well.
2. Install the cabinet so that the tube coming through the wall ends in the cabinet, not below it. This makes it cleaner (less dust in the cabinet) and nicer to look at. I also find it more comfortable to work with. Other people already mentioned this.
3. These patchcords are going wild in the back, possibly affecting the cooling of the switch. I usually route them in a conduit on the side, so they aren't getting in switch's airflow.
4. I heavily prefer modular patch panels with individual keystones. It is a bit more expensive, but I found it better in certified Cat6 and above installations.
5. Include a plan, legend or some other aid to know which cable is which. I usually put it on inside side of cabinet's door. I also always use racks with full metal doors, not glass ones.
6. Some color coding, maybe? If this only connects 24 computers or Wi-Fi APs together to some fiber or other uplink, having all the patchcords the same color is okay. If not, using for example green for LAN, blue for SAN and so is a good practice - don't forget to document this in the aforementioned plans/schematics on the front door. Somebody else already wrote this, and I add - if there is more than one cabinet in the building/campus, use the same color-code everywhere.
7. Ensure proper cooling of switches, router and/or other devices in the cabinet. There should be good airflow, unobstructed by wild cables (this reminds me, how did you store spare length of incoming cables?) or other stuff withing the cabinet.
8. Use air filters to make sure the cabinet isn't collecting all the dust in the room, even if it is a dedicated server room or something.
TL;DR: You have done well. It isn't perfect, but I'd still recommend you to a relative - just please use velcro strips instead of zip ties, or at least don't tighten them this much.
Spot on on all counts.
Personally I'd add that while this looks very organised, it's actually pretty difficult to work with and to trace cables. I prefer to forego the plastic cable management strips and instead mount the switch directly under the patch panel, then use 25 or 30cm patch leads straight into the switch. (Which is admittedly more difficult with a switch like the one in this video where all the ports are on the right-hand side).
This works beautifully with 48-port switches and 24-port patch panels. Install a patch panel top, then use short patch leads to go to the 24 top ports on the switch. Then install a patch panel below and use short patch leads to the 24 bottom ports on the switch. This is neater, it makes it trivially easy to trace cables, it doesn't leave a big bundle of patch leads messily at the back, it takes up less vertical space (so you have room for a small UPS or other gear), and adding, tracing, or moving a patch lead doesn't require access behind the switch and panels so you don't rick knocking out other cables by accident.
I am surprised zip ties are so heavily frowned upon in the comments section, I am using them all the time and never had any issues.
Last time I used A LOT of zipties (hundreds), I ran three POE IP cameras, about 50 meters each line, for 80% of the length ran together through attic and I ziptied the (3) cables together to nails along the way so they stay in place and won't get damaged when moving stuff in and out of the attic. What should I do instead?
@@Jirk4 The main problem is the way they were overtightened in this video. If they were left open a bit more to hold the bundle of cables together but not so tight to put pressure on the cables it would have been fine.
The minor problem with zip ties is they can't be re-used like velcro ones, so if you add a couple more cables they either don't end up bundled in or you have to cut each one and use a new set of zip ties. (And if you choose to cut and the original was too tight, showing the scissors in there to cut the original makes the original tie even tighter).
@@Jirk4 I also use zip ties all the time and they are awesome, but some people tighten them too much, damaging the cables. Most people would just tighten them as much as they can as if they were testing their strength or something.
@@Jirk4 : never had any problem either, used almost billions of zipties over the years. And lately always certified the work with a Fluke CableAnalyzer, sometimes many years after initial installation; without any problem.
The second cable punched in a wrong way - you should put brown wire first then white and brown..., using velcro is better than ties..., if you want to use ties you need to cut it all, don't leave a small piece it works as a knife latter when you work inside the rack...
Great video!
I hate cabling without labeling, even if it seems too excessive now, it will definitely help the next engineer to replace the failed switch
Isn't that the point of the patch panel? Label that?
You are right bro
Patch Port 1 ---TO---> Switch Port 1
Patch Port 2 ---TO---> Switch Port 2
Patch Port 3 ---TO---> Switch Port 3
.
.
.
.
Patch Port 22 ---TO---> Switch Port 22
Patch Port 23 ---TO---> Switch Port 23
Patch Port 24 ---TO---> Switch Port 24
where is the fault?
Nice work 👋
This approach won’t work on large installations, this method is mainly for small installations or home networks where the switch has the same amount of keystones available and order isn’t important When cabling large organisations only x switches may be available and rooms are blanket cabled, or budget restraints, leaving many of them redundant, it’s important split each room down into port, room , floor and even riser number, and wire in sequence this will aid when equipment, iP phones , wan access points , door access points , fire sensor equipment or ip cctv are added , only Velcro tied in 10 cables at a time and label , as cables can be damaged in building work this easier replacement, also in some organisations they insist on two switch setup above or below each keystone bank to separate vlans for Poe or public access points , the exact details should be discussed in network planning with the client
Nice tutorial brother, keep give more tutorial.
Thank you for sharing this video. It's great
Veri good!!! I liked this work!
I wish you would of showed the inside. Done a full rack. Nice job
What length cat6 cable did you run from the patch panel to the switch?
1 meter
@@BroExperts-Tutorials Thank you.
@@BroExperts-Tutorials Is 0.75m cable long enough to do such cable management ?
longest should be 1m
Can i to 50cm .
Brilliant mate!
It was very good. I love it. Thank you so much for sharing.
best video I have ever seen, quick and very neat!
Great to see the constructive criticism, wish they could make their video with all the recommendations they made.
Nice work machan. Thank you a lot
Nice work. Use a side cutter to cut the cable ties flush to prevent any injuries.
Thank you for you sharing this video
Nice cable work management guide overall but, you made a few crucial mistakes. First you need to use Velcro wraps instead of those plastic zip ties. Next you are supposed to have a Rigid Plastic Insulated Bushing attached to the end of that "chase" pipe that's coming out of the wall, that your cables are coming out of. It protects the wires and prevents damage to the wire insulation and is flame retardant material to 105C. You also must install a "ground" wire to your data rack. After you're finished with everything, it would be a good idea to use "Fire Stop" putty to cover up the hole you made in the wall for your data cables, in case of a fire. The big mistake you made is on port #2 of your patch panel. First off, look at video marker 4:33 just before you were getting ready to punch down (terminate) those cables. You accidentally put the brown pair in the wrong slot.. it's reversed. On port #1, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; white brown...brown white, which is correct for T568A. But on port #2, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; Then you reversed the brown pair. It should be white brown...brown white. Instead of brown white...white brown. Also try next time to keep the cable jacket closer to the patch panel while you're adding each twisted pair to their pins. Your cable jacket should be in the center of each block between pairs 2&3. It will then look like the pairs are fanned out. I see you are using the old method of T568A when everyone these days is using the industry standard of T568B. For the other viewers, T568A is only used in some older hospitals/medical centers and for Nurse Call devices and in some older schools. I hope you tested all the cabling and Jack's before you signed off on your patch panel job. And lastly, you shouldn't have had your patch cords buried in the back of that rack. They are supposed to be in the front. I'm surprised nobody else caught this in the comments section about that reversed pair on port #2. Sorry. Didn't mean to nit pick everything on your mistakes but, that's the way these installations are done these days. Oh well, nice tutorial anyways. Thanks for sharing.
Eita saudade de fazer um desses nossaaa. Top
Great video. Cam someone help me with estimation? I want to as to how many rolls of cables, patch panels are required in a specific project? Any videos on these?
Great effort and skill
Your work is so many clean 😁
Yes, this is a great job, and thanks for video sharing.
But, still did not understand why left and right cable groups did not follow same road. I mean, or like left group, the right group would follow right outside road before downgrade cable manager, or like right group, the left group would follow inside road before downgrade cable manager. Space exists. Both groups to follow same road.
good job! very useful.
Perfeito bom trabalho.
so why use the patchpanel? i want to know that
hey yesterday i have lots of confusion about patch pannel but after watching your video i am 100% clear what exactly patch pannel is i have subscribe to your channel also
thanks a lot
Glad I could help, Thanks for the subscribe :)
very nice man! what brand is that cabinet? Toten?
I dont know you but i think very relaxing to see ppl doing manual tasks.. hahaha
Perfect.Nice work
I always wondered how to make cable tie burs so that the next technician gets scratched and cut. Thanks
coool job, thanks for sharing this video~
Thank you for taking the time to show us how it's done
First, no cable ties, use velcro as mentioned in other comments, second : if you are persistant and use them anyway cut those damn things flush, the next person working on the cables will get cut on the sharp edges, also your cables will get destroyed.
thanks for this bro
When you split a cable to terminate on patch panel you should keep the wires slightly up not pointing down on the video you are trying to terminate and get wires cut and you have to crimp 4 to 5 times before the wires get cut if you leave the wires pointing up when you terminate the wires it will be cut 1st time and not make the gaps on patch panels big
Excelente!
suggestion: do not use zipties. They probably damage the cable, zipties (hangs cat) compromise the damaged cable compromises on the network certification. Use Velcro
I think those 2 big holes in cable manager, aren't meant to have cable passed through them. Always thought, cables should come out from side of it. With this type of mount, i see several issues:
1. Cables covers switch vents on a back, it can lead to overheat.
2. If you will want change positions, or add hardware to rack, you'll have to unmount the whole thing. If patch cables came out from side, then you'll be able to move any element, even if switch is on.
Agree
it is pretty good with completely understanding
I admire😐😉😉😁
nice work man :)
looks clean. thanks for the video
Nice work can study network by myself in home ?
Yes pick up a CCNA book or youtube comptia N+
So satisfing :)
@Bro Expert can you explain me the only two cable or concet to the 24 port rack by punching with punching tool no required more cables to punch thanks
This cable management somewhat satisfied my OCD :p
Thank you for sharing sir new supporters here
I see that rack needs those pesky cage nuts. Nice work 🍻
So satisfying
Very nice thank you very much for this video its been very helpful to me indeed.
Very good explanation!
Nice job, I hope to have a clean setup like this when I need that many ethernet cables.
So Far, You are the only guy I saw who used that little green organizer you used before you tie those cables 😂
I have a question.
I'm designing for an Office Network and I'm new with this.
What materials should I use from the PC to the Server?
-RJ45 Connectors
-UTP Cat 5
-Patch Panels
-Switch
-Router
-Wireway
And, I don't know how to decide for my Rack.
@@admiralgeneralaladeen2949 Probably too late now but you want to future proof. For the cabling you want minimum cat 6A shielded cable or if you can swing the extra couple bucks cat 7. For runs in the wall you want solid core cable for patch cables stranded cable is better. The patch panel and RJ45 connectors getting grounded ones makes the shielding actually work. Make sure every component says the cable standard you settled on before implementing it. With the patch panel there are 2 big groups. Ones that take keystone jacks and ones that you wire directly. The one that accept keystone jacks will be cheaper but remember to factor in the jacks. That said it can be simpler then trying to work on one long bar to individually terminate every cable. With the switch and router just look at their quality. It's not worth saving $50 on a fly by night brand if you won't get the reliability. Router Downtime and replacement can eat any savings in not going with one of the big boys. My old company didn't do this and a 30 minute outage literally meant thousands of dollars flying away.
Hello, one strange scenario. Cables from one side ends to a Patch panel cat6 and on the other side are rj45 connectors. Using the tester, all pins are ok but when connecting with computer, again everything works but some links are 100mbits and some other 1gbs. What can be the issue?
well explained. Thank you so much.
Nice work！
good its a perfect dressing
Question: I am installing CAT6 to use for IP cameras. About 20 IP cameras. Do I organize them the same way?
o good super masha allah!
Muchos expertos corrigiendo al amigo que hizo el video. Háganlo ustedes y comparta su sabiduría!!! Too many experts correcting the friend who made the video. Do it by yourselves and share your wisdom!!
Bien dicho
Very interesting video. Thanks.
Really nice video :D Could you tell me the name of the music used in this video? I actually liked it a lot :D
Great work bro
Excelentes video gracias!!
Hi your video is excellent
nice work brother, keep it up
good concept and way of working
euqipment not aligment by units. one unit is free, one unit is lost. with short cables you can manage this rack without rigth/left side opened. two man mounting half size rack switch - awesome.
Just out of curiosity, how would you go about cable management for a 42U rack, six 24-port patch panels, and a chassis switch?
Run the trunk up one of the sides and Branch off for each device
Very nice, can you tell me how many devices this network cabinet has and the cost details for each of these devices?
I am also researching and building a network like you for my rental building. Thank
Thanks for your comment.. This network also was built for building.. In 4 floor building i made cabinet in two places 4rth floor and 2nd floor to cover all the rooms.. Each room we fixed indoor wireless device.. 24 port d link poe switch was around $222. I used 4ipnet wireless access points each access point cost me $83.. Items list u will see in the description of this Video... Anything else u want to know?
@@BroExperts-Tutorials nothing else 😄
forgot to label all cables coming from the wall as well as all patch cords inside the cabinet
Didn't even keep it consistent. For the most part he just plugged cables wherever.
supper sir
Well done!
well done Hafiz!