This was a solid review, and I appreciate you taking the time to really get into all the details without overwhelming us with technical terms that would probably confuse and turn off new or soon to be new to the 3D printing world. Thanks again, and cheers.
Just bought one for $335 on newegg. Im so exited to get this thing! We use Ender 3s in my engineering class and thats what got me interested. After debating for months i finally got a printer.
@@ModBotArmy I found it by accident a long time ago, back before he was doing 3d printer stuff. I thought my Xbox 360 was toast, found this channel, taught me how to fix it, and I was back in business! I was going to by a new one, but he saved me some $$$$
This is what I have been waiting for! I've heavily modded my Anet ET4 to be somewhat like this: 32 bit open source board, silent drivers, belt tension (it's unbelievable that it has none as stock), v6 with bimetal heatbreak, Capricorn bowden tube, abl, spring steel sheet (had to replace bed AND carriage because it was weird, and that brought to reroute the y axis belt) and anti backlash; and aside from the money the time consumed has been like a year. Having ALL this stock is like a godsend, I think the only things I would change are the bowden tube for a Capricorn and a bimetal heatbreak
The most important part of any budget 3d printer is its community support and third party upgrade parts which is most available for creality and prusa line of printers.
some smol advice: I add -0.1mm to -0.5mm detraction length to my slicer with volcano hotends. i also reduce temp by 10c. that doesn't seem to affect my part strength
I think this is like the 3rd or 4th review that I’ve seen on the Viper, and everyone has pretty much been saying the same thing. It works out of the box. Which to me means that it’s probably good as someone’s first printer. It does look like yours might be a little more out of calibration than the others, so I’d probably run a full calibration on it, especially the extruder and Linear Advance. On my Snapmaker, I’ve been printing TPU at 60mm/s, but it is a direct drive. I’ve also done the same on my Ender 5 Plus, which I upgraded to direct drive, all metal hot end, and linear rails. I might give 80mm/s a try once I install the Mosquito Magnum. I’m just starting to experiment with variable accelerations, like higher for infill and traveling, and normal for perimeters. I wouldn’t be surprised if a lot of new makers found this under the Christmas tree this year.
or they just got the printer for free and dont want to upset the supplier to not get more printers for free. It looks promising but ill wait until actual buyers start using the machines
@@Nonprofessional_Tinkerer you should pay attention to the disclaimers in every video. If the content creator misrepresents themselves in their disclaimer, UA-cam will pull their account and all revenue generated, as well as report the infraction to the FTC.
I put a buck converter between PSU and MB fan. I adjusted the pot on the converter until I achieved a noticeably quieter fan yet still producing good airflow. The machine is SOOO much quieter
I’ve been on your channel since the mono price mini and your mini head you printed with your JG aurora, I’ll never forget that live stream, good times🥺🥲🥰
it looks shockingly like the Creality CR-6SE, of course it has technical differences to it but that frame and silhouette is identical to the CR-6 i've got sitting next to me
Got this printer brand new for 150 Canadian, can’t say I have anything to compare it to. But it is super easy to use and works awesome. Would recommend
Great review! As this video is about 2 years old, I was wondering if you have tried to print with any ASA filament? I know it takes more heat to print with ASA and I was wondering if the stock heater would allow the extra heat. I'm concerned if the tubing will start to melt causing toxic fumes like my Mega X would do if I go over 240 degrees. Also, have you done any upgrades on this printer since this video? Thanks, Pete
Heck yeah! I was really happy to see this video, I have been following this printer for a bit, so it was amazing to see you do a video on it so early. I never preorder anything, but I am pretty sure that this will be my next printer when it reaches Amazon. I have seen a few reviewers print PLA at pretty fast speeds. Being a Volcano style hotend it should also be much easier to swap out to an all metal hotend than the cr-6 se. Which btw, really glad to see you didnt compare it to that printer, too many people have been. Yeah, it shares a bit in common with it, but it is not a clone like everyone assumes it is.
@@Dusty2455433 Probably not now, the printer is getting a little older now and there are plenty of other good options out now. With that said, I have seen it go on sale a few times for less than $300, and if you can find a good deal on it then it may be a great printer to grab.
The high pitch sound should be the PWM signal when it is not running at 100% fan speed. If you set it to 100% fan speed, the sound is gone. Nice video, thank you! :)
Great review! It’s pushing me toward buying one of these. I have a heavily modified i3 with direct drive and this is about to receive a volcano hot end. I’m also not crazy about the original Ultrabase bed as the surface is prone to damage and the adjustment is a hassle. This printer improves both issues and I’d like a bigger build volume. It’s going to be a choice between one of these or the Chiron, which is now available cheaply and has substantially increased print volume. I’ll hold off until next year before pulling the trigger.
That was a very good review. Looks like very good value out of the box. adding the features to an ender 3 would cost more, plus all the messing about with firmware etc..
Good review. I really like the flex bed plate and the auto level. Print quality though, I think my i3 Mega S actually does a little nicer job. Still, nice to see Anycubic is still innovating and improving, gotta like that! :)
most likely just need to sit down and spend time with slicer settings to pull the best of it out. My old I3 mega S was a completely different printer after calibrating the stepper motors then got better just spending time doing little test prints playing with settings.
I'm new to 3D printing and was really confused what to get. Thank you for a great review. Just ordered one. Now to figure out what brand of filament to use. :)
PETG yes always dry it for 2h before you print with it no matter what. Often moisture is strapped inside the roll rather than outside. Me been in Florida I always store them in a dry container and dry them before using it.
Haha Florida I could definitely see but here it is so dry it is normally not an issue. I have had petg open for months before. I did move closer to the ocean a couple of years ago which may be playing a factor. Will definitely have to think about that more for future prints.
Just picked one up for sale on Amazon for $250ish. Cand wait to try it. I've got an ender 3 that I just can't get setup smoothly. Gonna sell it and move on to auto leveling.
The Mega-S test print had two owls, the left one had a top hat and the right one was the same as on this test print, looks like they probably used same .stl file and just removed the right one without centering the other
@@JP-xd6fm my i3 (RIP) also had perfect owls, as said in the video, the profile isn't the best and needs some modifications. Anycubic probably just ran out of time (or were too lazy) to finetune the profile for the Vyper and reused the i3 with minimum adjustments
*my dad being a huge fan of my channel* aww that's cute. also with a bowden TPU i can easily hit 60mm/s on my bowden. 80mm/s is likely to work TBH. BMG Extruders are amazing.
I had an anycubic i3 mega s printer. Had trouble with the print bed kinda warping near the center or it not actually heating properly. (Not sure, I'm as newbie to 3d printing as you can get) I ended up buying this because of the auto leveling (I have nerve issues making it difficult to turn those knobs underneath the build plate at awkward angles) I did my first 3 prints including benchy using prusa slicer with the same profile as my i3 and they came out absolutely flawless! An icosahedron with numbers, infinite cube, and benchy at max resolution. Can barely see any lines at all! So much quieter as well, so I can print while I sleep no prob. About to try out tpu for the first time, so we'll see how it goes, but I am quite satisfied with my vyper so far.
I have been doing a ton of research on features / sizes and find your channel extremely useful!!! I want to purchase my (first) 3D printer, but know that I want to be able to print NylonX (either out of the box or through upgrades). with the most recent batch of printers, would you recommend this printer over the Ender3 or is there another printer you would suggest I look at with prices less than 500$ US with good build volume capable of NylonX printing??? Thanks in advance and please keep the amazing content coming!!!
Sorry to keep spamming your comments. But think I can help you out with the Cura/M1 Mac issues. Messed around with some more complex designs, and was getting the same issues. Crashing. Freezing. Frustrating. It’d slice just fine. But issues would abound if I tried to preview. Did a little digging and discovered an easy fix that works well so far... 1) Open Cura 2) Select “Ultimaker Cura” from the menu bar 3) Select “Preferences” 4) Check the box for “Force layer view compatibility mode” 5) Restart Cura This worked immediately for me. Tried a bunch of different designs that were previously crashing every time. No issues. I’m still a newb with CAD, Slicing, and printing. But, hoping this Cura fix can help someone out.
What you experienced in the petg could be a litle bit of moist but the real problem is the material touching the hotend for too long. I talked about tgis in my channel... BG just sent me a Vyper to test and I always watch your videos before asking for a Printer... Thanks for your work and best regards from Brazil.
I wonder if your "wet filament" was really a temperature issue. It's also probably related to the geometry, with the shorter line segments laying down differently than the longer lines below. Notice that both prints are clean down low and then suddenly get rough higher in the print. As the nozzle gets farther from the bed the ambient temperature drops off and the filament can lay down too cold. I suspect that you would find the layer adhesion to be poor in that part of the print as well.
Dude I can't believe you've gone to the dark side.......Prusa ugggggg lololololo Great vid as always. Just a thought; when I did my Prusa vs Cura tests using the same settings on both, the prusa slicer prints had stringing and the cura didn't.......Not sure if its just my setup but I really tried to get the stringing under control with the prusa prints and no go. I have a friend who's buying his first printer and I think I will still recommend the Ender 3 V2. But, I will keep my eye on this printer and if its as good as you've shown, I may change that recommendation :)
Could you do a video on what slicer you use besides cura and how you put the viper specs on it? I just got one for my bday and I’m trying to learn!! Thank you
Negative things seems to be addressed by anycubic. Fans aren't loud at all and hotend assembly connector is removable. Machine it self is incredible well packed, sturdy and easy to assemble. Leveling works great first try.
Hoping these printers end up in more canadian retailers - amazon at the very least. Most places that are selling this printer are mainly american sellers.
FYI as a custom gaming PC builder, I heard you have an issue with the fan noise and that’s because it’s a low quality bearing fan. Next time you use one like this just go and buy a “Noctua NF-A8 PWM” 80mm premium quiet fan with the best airflow of any fan brand. Gets about 1800 RPM and is literally quite
Hi from Puerto Rico Boss, I’m new to the desktop 3D printers…. Now I’m thinking of buying one 3D printer….. this one is looking like the right one…. Any tip and or advise that you have I’ll appreciate it thanks..!!!!!!!
Great review.. I just purchased the Anycubic Kobra model. The print quality to me so far looks real good. The one thing though is that It has the edge or lip material all around the part and is hard to get off. I noticed your parts did not seem to have this edge or boarder around the outside of the part. Could you maybe give me some suggestions out to get rid of this boarder? Then again I don't know what this boarder is called. Thanks, Dave...
It's either a brim, or elephant foot. A brim is extra material that's intentionally added around your part on the first layer to improve bed adhesion. You can enable/disable it in Cura under the "Build Plate Adhesion" section. Elephant foot is when your part is actually wider than it should on the first few layers. This is typically caused by a nozzle that's too close to the bed on the first layer, or excessive bed temperature that keeps the first layers soft, making them expand under the weight of the layers above. This can be fixed by reducing the bed temperature, increasing z-offset, and if nothing else works, by setting "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" under "Walls" (in Cura) to a negative value such as -0.2mm.
Now just have to wait till there available in Australia 😍🤩 Edit : now I know what's wrong with my grey esun petg, first 2 weeks printed great then swapped to esun pla then went back to the petg and got the same bubbling and popping noises 👍 guess I'm buying a dryer too
I live on a coastal site and keeping PETG dry is a nightmare. I've built a filament dryer which is also a spool holder so it can dry and feed the printer with the dried filament on the fly. Uses a cheap food dehydrator with a few mods. Seems to work well.
This is the 1st printer I have seen using dual Z Stepper in parallel with end stops on both sides. Is it possible to modify an existing 3d printer with dual z stepper in parrel from one endstop to two? I think this is a cool feature.....
I think probably a better/easier diy gantry leveling method is to use an abl. Marlin has the ability to level the gantry using a bltouch. You still use two independent z stepper motors, because each motor has to be independent regardless of if it uses an end stop or an abl.
You'll need a control board with a dual driver output to use dual axis align. I use it on my Tronxy X5S and the Marlin command is G34 for the auto-align feature. I use the bed levelling probe to do the alignment, bed levelling and Z min endstop. That way you can do away with any Z endstop limit switches. It works really well with an inductive probe and a PEI coated magnetic steel build sheet.
Thank you, this might be the best review so far. I wanted to know about the hotend. Does it have one or two part cooling fan? I suspect switching the tube to Capricorn will help with the webbing. Thank again
dude.... it's 1am and it's on sale for 270.00 and I have had it in my cart for two hours... watched this and pulled the trigger. OY! Crosses fingers......
I'd check the firmware of the other printers for an option to disable the touch screen beep. It's probably there and just not enabled to change in the interface. Disable it and compile a new firmware. My Ender 3 Pro had a video assembling guide on the USB drive that shipped with the printer. Compared to the printed guide, it was an easier and more efficient way to assemble it.
I noticed on all of your prints side walls there is a lot of unevenness. Is the auto tensioners spring pressure or rigid screws. If they use some kind of spring there is definitely bouncing in the X-Y movements.
To me it looks like the extruder needs calibration, and that it could use a Linear Advance calibration as well. I’ve seen like 3 other reviews, and they seemed to be better calibrated out of the box.
What would you recommend for the $500 range? Just starting out. I do need it to be accurate enough to print gears that will actually spin. Thanks for any tips!
Noob here, What does a printer need to be compatible with klipper, from what ive heard the advanced features can really imporve prints, and it would be cool if i can do this in the future when my budget allows.
To me this looks very very close to my CR-6 SE in terms of features except the CR-6 has a filament run-out sensor and had a glass bed. I love my CR-6 SE though - print quality is ridiculous even at 100mm/sec. If this printer was a little cheaper to buy, it would have been a very appealing product.
Hi I have been trying to set up my Vyper to print PEGT using a Cura slicer. It prints great until I introduce supports and I just can not seem to get it right. The supports just stick so well I can't get them off and the underside like the roof always has a terrible surface as if the filament is not sticking together on the first layer after a support. I would be so grateful for any advice pleas.
Ive had many prints stop mid print due to filament sensor malfunction. I updated the firmware and still experience it. Most times I just hit print resume and it might come back with the warning but at times it will continue to print for half a day before the error comes back.
I find that results are so much better when using Klipper as firmware. No ringing, much smoother surfaces. This hardware can likely work fine (if the board can be supported) - including the leveling. But not the touch screen.
Thank you for the very detailled test! Really great and informative! Have the i3 mega, which will be sold in favor for the vyper. Already preordered it, hopefully it will be shipped on 30.06.
@@liraco_mx the i3 Was fine, but I had not enough space for All the Printers. Currently I have 4 Printers and a cure and wash Station. Meanwhile I also got the vyper and it was impressive.... Until it failed. I am one of the victims of the Level sensor issues and also my y Motor Mount failed.
@@liraco_mx the ender is good, but also has its flaws. Perhaps you should also consider the eryone er20. If you want to tinker or Upgrade the ender is an extremly good base to Start with. Mine has nearly nothing to do with the Stock Model anymore.
Im chasing upgrades for my anycubic kossel linear plus, anycubic no longer sells parts and my heated bed build surface is worn and get no adhesion anymore, where would i get a new build surface and some 3rd party parts or upgrades that will fit the linear plus..
I bought a Vyper and after calibrating and leveling it printed the owl. But that was it. The next print took the hotend below the bed and scratched the crap out of it. Anycubic told me that the sensor was bad and they send me another one within 15 days of filling their form. I returned the printer and ordered another one. I got exactly the same results. I just can't get a print because the hotend goes below level and will not print or autolevel, ever again. I'm sorry to say I won't try a third unit.
You said the hot end wasn't all-metal, but the neck of the heatbreak looked too thin for PTFE tubing. Wouldn't that mean it's all metal effective? My V6 clones all have a short length of PTFE to the all metal heatbreak.
My only issue with Anycubic is their shipping costs to New Zealand, there are other manufacturers that can offer shipping for fairly cheap to absolutely nothing, but Anycubic charges can be near the cost of the printer to get it here, with little to no explanation as to why they would charge that much more than other manufacturers. I'd definitely buy more of their products if that weren't the case
@@Mdbunn2013 I don't get why Aliexpress is so vastly different then, just checked before and in some cases, shipping costs more than the printer, it's ridiculous, but I'll definitely check out banggood, cheers
@@ravenous14 yes I found the same thing. Ive noticed there shipping charges have shot up on everything. I’m getting over AliExpress, lost orders ,slow shipping. And even if you pay higher rate for fast shipping they still send via cheapest slowest. My Vyper should arrive in two-three weeks. Cross fingers
Well, mine finally arrived. Pretty much on time. Unfortunately, before even getting it fully unboxed, I noticed the bed’s drive belt was broken/detached. So, I’ve got a giant paperweight. Currently in the process of trying to get Anycubic to send a replacement. But, with the time difference, it’s been painfully slow. Not too pleased with my first experience with Anycubic.
purchased this the other day and couldn't wait. It was supposed to be easy peasy. my only problem is that when I go to print the nozzle never touches the build surface. It just starts spitting out filament. tried to figure out z offset but couldn't get it going. any help would be appreciated. thanks
Thanks Brotha! Yeah many of the printers I have tested feel so similar to each other. This one at least feels like it’s got some additional good stuff going on. I will likely run some big projects through it 😬
@@ModBotArmy - I haven’t tested nearly as many printers as you. I am at around a dozen printers. When I first saw this printer and read the features, I began thinking this was just a CR6-SE clone. However, the electronics are different, including the strain gauge, and the nozzle. To me, this looks to be the better alternative to the CR6SE, which has the most notably feature, the strain gauge.
I actually had no idea it was even similar to the 6SE until I published the video. Then quite a few comments said it looked very similar. I do have a 6SE on the way but it is not a review unit or intended to be used for reviewing. I am just excited to see how it does having used the Vyper and loving it. Most people that I have talked to that got the 6SE seem to be pretty happy with it.
Finaly i got my Anycubic Viper.The first one was destroyed during transport, the second was stolen during transport, but the third one arrived in good conditioning. But what a dissapointment. Whatever i do, it will not do automatic leveling.. First i have to put a metal object to the nozzle, then it is homing and starts to pre heat. In all the tutorials i have never seen or saw this. then it starts to level it but afer the first point it stops .Abnormal leveling point put off power and check wirering. I did check it, dubble chekend it but i cant find anything wrong. i dont know what to do now. Can you help me?
what are your thoughts Anycubic Vyper 3d Printer vs the Creativity v2? seems like this vyper is a pro version with all the upgrades. can this be upgraded to direct drive? I know its hard to reply to all messages hoping I get picked :)
My first printer was an Anycubic Predator, and that thing makes me really hesitant to try anything from Anycubic in the future. The specs were amazing, the price was right, but repairs were both frequently necessary and a pain in the ass. Especially once the thing went out of production a few weeks after I bought it, and parts became hard to find.
My first was the i3 mega, great printer, then i got the mega zero, also great but no heated bed (no problem, just added mag sheet), ordered a vyper yesterday.
@@GaryMcKinnonUFO I suspect my problems werre due to trying a delta first, coupled with the thing going out of production. Not necessarily their fault, but still enough to make me paranoid.
I'm chasing parts for my anycubic kossell linear plus and anycubic said they no longer make parts for it :( so no after sale support 😢 makes me very hesitant to buy another anycubic printer, all I wanted was another adhesive build surface for my heated bed and some new rail sliders for my frame or an ultrabase glass heated bed but was declined after sales parts and service so if you know anywhere I can still get parts to fix my printer please let me know 😢😢
This was a solid review, and I appreciate you taking the time to really get into all the details without overwhelming us with technical terms that would probably confuse and turn off new or soon to be new to the 3D printing world. Thanks again, and cheers.
Just bought one for $335 on newegg. Im so exited to get this thing! We use Ender 3s in my engineering class and thats what got me interested. After debating for months i finally got a printer.
Can this print carbon fiber pla? maybe with a hardened steel nozzle?
yeah, your gonna wish you had gotten an ender3.
How’s it been? Thinking about buying one
@@denniswitthuhn2277 actually i don't. I really dislike my schools ender3s and im glad i got this. Had 0 issues so far.
@@brettshrekingtonloving it right now
This channel has the best reviews. I'm only upset that I didn't find it sooner!
❤️
@@ModBotArmy I found it by accident a long time ago, back before he was doing 3d printer stuff. I thought my Xbox 360 was toast, found this channel, taught me how to fix it, and I was back in business! I was going to by a new one, but he saved me some $$$$
Anycubic rocks, my i3M still running gloriously after all mods I have made...
Same here! I love my i3M!
this was a really helpful revieew, actuially convinced me to pull the trigger on the purchase. Thanks from the UK.
This is what I have been waiting for! I've heavily modded my Anet ET4 to be somewhat like this: 32 bit open source board, silent drivers, belt tension (it's unbelievable that it has none as stock), v6 with bimetal heatbreak, Capricorn bowden tube, abl, spring steel sheet (had to replace bed AND carriage because it was weird, and that brought to reroute the y axis belt) and anti backlash; and aside from the money the time consumed has been like a year.
Having ALL this stock is like a godsend, I think the only things I would change are the bowden tube for a Capricorn and a bimetal heatbreak
Hi! I'm exactly in the same boat as you and am deciding between ender 3 v2 and vyper. Are you happy with with your decision to go for the vyper? :)
I did order this printer in presale, I'm excited for it. Great video!
Awesome it is so rad. 🙌
The most important part of any budget 3d printer is its community support and third party upgrade parts which is most available for creality and prusa line of printers.
A good printer doesn’t need upgrades.
@@redline6871 that depends on your definition of GOOD.
It would be interesting to see what happens if you were to print TPU at 80mm/s. Won't know until you try!
I printed XYZ test cube in TPE (softer then TPU) at 150 mm/s and acceleration of 1200 mm/s
I think i’m gonna grab this as my first 3d printer! I was leaning towards the Biqu B1 but this review won me over!!
i just ordered mine lmao
Because of this review, I just ordered a Anycubic Vyper. Thank you for your honest feedback.
some smol advice: I add -0.1mm to -0.5mm detraction length to my slicer with volcano hotends. i also reduce temp by 10c. that doesn't seem to affect my part strength
I think this is like the 3rd or 4th review that I’ve seen on the Viper, and everyone has pretty much been saying the same thing. It works out of the box. Which to me means that it’s probably good as someone’s first printer. It does look like yours might be a little more out of calibration than the others, so I’d probably run a full calibration on it, especially the extruder and Linear Advance.
On my Snapmaker, I’ve been printing TPU at 60mm/s, but it is a direct drive. I’ve also done the same on my Ender 5 Plus, which I upgraded to direct drive, all metal hot end, and linear rails. I might give 80mm/s a try once I install the Mosquito Magnum. I’m just starting to experiment with variable accelerations, like higher for infill and traveling, and normal for perimeters.
I wouldn’t be surprised if a lot of new makers found this under the Christmas tree this year.
or they just got the printer for free and dont want to upset the supplier to not get more printers for free. It looks promising but ill wait until actual buyers start using the machines
@@Nonprofessional_Tinkerer you should pay attention to the disclaimers in every video. If the content creator misrepresents themselves in their disclaimer, UA-cam will pull their account and all revenue generated, as well as report the infraction to the FTC.
@@cnc-maker you mean like this vid that has no mention of whether the printer was sent for free or that they paid for it
@@Nonprofessional_Tinkerer 1:06
@@cnc-maker anycubic reached out to me giving me a list of specs for a new they will be releasing is not saying either
I put a buck converter between PSU and MB fan. I adjusted the pot on the converter until I achieved a noticeably quieter fan yet still producing good airflow. The machine is SOOO much quieter
Great review I have a Ender 3 Neo and those springs on the bed when they need adjustment drives me nuts.
I’ve been on your channel since the mono price mini and your mini head you printed with your JG aurora, I’ll never forget that live stream, good times🥺🥲🥰
Great review. We will probably see tones of upgrade for it in the near future
15:55 love the back ground music while we try to listen to the imaginary popping noises.
it looks shockingly like the Creality CR-6SE, of course it has technical differences to it but that frame and silhouette is identical to the CR-6 i've got sitting next to me
It is a clone of the cr 6 se
I’m upgrading from a MP Select Mini v1 and am excited to have a *much* larger build volume and nicer bed leveling experience.
Got this printer brand new for 150 Canadian, can’t say I have anything to compare it to. But it is super easy to use and works awesome. Would recommend
Great review! As this video is about 2 years old, I was wondering if you have tried to print with any ASA filament? I know it takes more heat to print with ASA and I was wondering if the stock heater would allow the extra heat. I'm concerned if the tubing will start to melt causing toxic fumes like my Mega X would do if I go over 240 degrees. Also, have you done any upgrades on this printer since this video? Thanks, Pete
I just purchased this same model and they now have a Vyper profile in Cura.
Heck yeah! I was really happy to see this video, I have been following this printer for a bit, so it was amazing to see you do a video on it so early. I never preorder anything, but I am pretty sure that this will be my next printer when it reaches Amazon.
I have seen a few reviewers print PLA at pretty fast speeds. Being a Volcano style hotend it should also be much easier to swap out to an all metal hotend than the cr-6 se. Which btw, really glad to see you didnt compare it to that printer, too many people have been. Yeah, it shares a bit in common with it, but it is not a clone like everyone assumes it is.
Is it worth $379?
@@Dusty2455433 Probably not now, the printer is getting a little older now and there are plenty of other good options out now. With that said, I have seen it go on sale a few times for less than $300, and if you can find a good deal on it then it may be a great printer to grab.
The high pitch sound should be the PWM signal when it is not running at 100% fan speed. If you set it to 100% fan speed, the sound is gone. Nice video, thank you! :)
I just did a full set of Voron parts on my Vyper. Solid printer.
Great review! It’s pushing me toward buying one of these. I have a heavily modified i3 with direct drive and this is about to receive a volcano hot end. I’m also not crazy about the original Ultrabase bed as the surface is prone to damage and the adjustment is a hassle. This printer improves both issues and I’d like a bigger build volume. It’s going to be a choice between one of these or the Chiron, which is now available cheaply and has substantially increased print volume. I’ll hold off until next year before pulling the trigger.
did you ever make a decision?
That was a very good review. Looks like very good value out of the box. adding the features to an ender 3 would cost more, plus all the messing about with firmware etc..
Yeah my thoughts exactly! Thanks for watching 😬
Super video ! Would you recommend this printer or the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro?
Good review. I really like the flex bed plate and the auto level. Print quality though, I think my i3 Mega S actually does a little nicer job. Still, nice to see Anycubic is still innovating and improving, gotta like that! :)
most likely just need to sit down and spend time with slicer settings to pull the best of it out.
My old I3 mega S was a completely different printer after calibrating the stepper motors then got better just spending time doing little test prints playing with settings.
Nice review! Just bought 3 of these to add to my farm!
I'm new to 3D printing and was really confused what to get. Thank you for a great review. Just ordered one. Now to figure out what brand of filament to use. :)
PETG yes always dry it for 2h before you print with it no matter what. Often moisture is strapped inside the roll rather than outside. Me been in Florida I always store them in a dry container and dry them before using it.
Haha Florida I could definitely see but here it is so dry it is normally not an issue. I have had petg open for months before. I did move closer to the ocean a couple of years ago which may be playing a factor. Will definitely have to think about that more for future prints.
@@ModBotArmy Keep up the good work. I really enjoy your channel. Maybe we meet each other in the future too who knows.
Just picked one up for sale on Amazon for $250ish. Cand wait to try it. I've got an ender 3 that I just can't get setup smoothly. Gonna sell it and move on to auto leveling.
Great review! Nothing beats a no BS review. As Sergeant Friday used to say, "Just the facts, ma'am"
Couldn't agree more!
Thanks Tom! I appreciate the kind words.
apart from being really informative about the reviewed printer, I liked your video just for how proud you make your dad :)
great review! 😎
Thank you 🙏
@@Jin-Ro did you watch the video
@@ModBotArmy hey is therr anywhere i can find your cura profile. Im having trouble with my vyper
@@ModBotArmy i feel like you should have tried the stock profile lol
@@ModBotArmy would you recommend this or the cr 10 smart? I like the cr 10 smart design better but if it won’t work well then I want this one. Thanks!
Hello, great content. Do you think Anycubic Vyper could print prosthetic legs?
The Mega-S test print had two owls, the left one had a top hat and the right one was the same as on this test print, looks like they probably used same .stl file and just removed the right one without centering the other
The mega I3 I had it came with the 2 owls as well and they came flawless btw, not like this one...
@@JP-xd6fm my i3 (RIP) also had perfect owls, as said in the video, the profile isn't the best and needs some modifications. Anycubic probably just ran out of time (or were too lazy) to finetune the profile for the Vyper and reused the i3 with minimum adjustments
*my dad being a huge fan of my channel*
aww that's cute.
also with a bowden TPU i can easily hit 60mm/s on my bowden. 80mm/s is likely to work TBH. BMG Extruders are amazing.
I had an anycubic i3 mega s printer. Had trouble with the print bed kinda warping near the center or it not actually heating properly. (Not sure, I'm as newbie to 3d printing as you can get)
I ended up buying this because of the auto leveling (I have nerve issues making it difficult to turn those knobs underneath the build plate at awkward angles)
I did my first 3 prints including benchy using prusa slicer with the same profile as my i3 and they came out absolutely flawless! An icosahedron with numbers, infinite cube, and benchy at max resolution. Can barely see any lines at all! So much quieter as well, so I can print while I sleep no prob.
About to try out tpu for the first time, so we'll see how it goes, but I am quite satisfied with my vyper so far.
Pls note - Cura now has 100% native support for the Vyper, no need for the fiddling of settings seen at 8:00.
Thanks man, great info. Thanks for all your hard work!
❤️
Thank you for the video. Would you happen to have any video on how to get rid of the strings on my prints for the Vyper? Thanks!
I have been doing a ton of research on features / sizes and find your channel extremely useful!!! I want to purchase my (first) 3D printer, but know that I want to be able to print NylonX (either out of the box or through upgrades).
with the most recent batch of printers, would you recommend this printer over the Ender3 or is there another printer you would suggest I look at with prices less than 500$ US with good build volume capable of NylonX printing???
Thanks in advance and please keep the amazing content coming!!!
Sorry to keep spamming your comments. But think I can help you out with the Cura/M1 Mac issues.
Messed around with some more complex designs, and was getting the same issues. Crashing. Freezing. Frustrating. It’d slice just fine. But issues would abound if I tried to preview.
Did a little digging and discovered an easy fix that works well so far...
1) Open Cura
2) Select “Ultimaker Cura” from the menu bar
3) Select “Preferences”
4) Check the box for “Force layer view compatibility mode”
5) Restart Cura
This worked immediately for me. Tried a bunch of different designs that were previously crashing every time. No issues.
I’m still a newb with CAD, Slicing, and printing. But, hoping this Cura fix can help someone out.
What you experienced in the petg could be a litle bit of moist but the real problem is the material touching the hotend for too long. I talked about tgis in my channel...
BG just sent me a Vyper to test and I always watch your videos before asking for a Printer... Thanks for your work and best regards from Brazil.
I wonder if your "wet filament" was really a temperature issue. It's also probably related to the geometry, with the shorter line segments laying down differently than the longer lines below. Notice that both prints are clean down low and then suddenly get rough higher in the print. As the nozzle gets farther from the bed the ambient temperature drops off and the filament can lay down too cold. I suspect that you would find the layer adhesion to be poor in that part of the print as well.
Dude I can't believe you've gone to the dark side.......Prusa ugggggg lololololo Great vid as always. Just a thought; when I did my Prusa vs Cura tests using the same settings on both, the prusa slicer prints had stringing and the cura didn't.......Not sure if its just my setup but I really tried to get the stringing under control with the prusa prints and no go. I have a friend who's buying his first printer and I think I will still recommend the Ender 3 V2. But, I will keep my eye on this printer and if its as good as you've shown, I may change that recommendation :)
Could you do a video on what slicer you use besides cura and how you put the viper specs on it? I just got one for my bday and I’m trying to learn!! Thank you
Excellent review, mine arrives next week, liked and subbed.
Did the light on the nozzle come with the printer? If it's stock, that's a very good feature.
Yeah it comes installed :)
great review💥💯. Nice speech and rhythm and needed facts😁
Negative things seems to be addressed by anycubic. Fans aren't loud at all and hotend assembly connector is removable.
Machine it self is incredible well packed, sturdy and easy to assemble. Leveling works great first try.
Hoping these printers end up in more canadian retailers - amazon at the very least. Most places that are selling this printer are mainly american sellers.
FYI as a custom gaming PC builder, I heard you have an issue with the fan noise and that’s because it’s a low quality bearing fan. Next time you use one like this just go and buy a “Noctua NF-A8 PWM” 80mm premium quiet fan with the best airflow of any fan brand. Gets about 1800 RPM and is literally quite
Duel AXIS is an upgrade too!! Check out the NEW FIRMWARE they have as well!!!
Hi from Puerto Rico Boss, I’m new to the desktop 3D printers…. Now I’m thinking of buying one 3D printer….. this one is looking like the right one…. Any tip and or advise that you have I’ll appreciate it thanks..!!!!!!!
Great review.. I just purchased the Anycubic Kobra model. The print quality to me so far looks real good. The one thing though is that It has the edge or lip material all around the part and is hard to get off. I noticed your parts did not seem to have this edge or boarder around the outside of the part. Could you maybe give me some suggestions out to get rid of this boarder? Then again I don't know what this boarder is called. Thanks, Dave...
It's either a brim, or elephant foot. A brim is extra material that's intentionally added around your part on the first layer to improve bed adhesion. You can enable/disable it in Cura under the "Build Plate Adhesion" section. Elephant foot is when your part is actually wider than it should on the first few layers. This is typically caused by a nozzle that's too close to the bed on the first layer, or excessive bed temperature that keeps the first layers soft, making them expand under the weight of the layers above. This can be fixed by reducing the bed temperature, increasing z-offset, and if nothing else works, by setting "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" under "Walls" (in Cura) to a negative value such as -0.2mm.
So what's the fix for the volcano extruder stringing? Besides retraction, could you lower the temp overall?
Now just have to wait till there available in Australia 😍🤩
Edit : now I know what's wrong with my grey esun petg, first 2 weeks printed great then swapped to esun pla then went back to the petg and got the same bubbling and popping noises 👍 guess I'm buying a dryer too
I live on a coastal site and keeping PETG dry is a nightmare. I've built a filament dryer which is also a spool holder so it can dry and feed the printer with the dried filament on the fly. Uses a cheap food dehydrator with a few mods. Seems to work well.
This is the 1st printer I have seen using dual Z Stepper in parallel with end stops on both sides. Is it possible to modify an existing 3d printer with dual z stepper in parrel from one endstop to two? I think this is a cool feature.....
I think probably a better/easier diy gantry leveling method is to use an abl. Marlin has the ability to level the gantry using a bltouch. You still use two independent z stepper motors, because each motor has to be independent regardless of if it uses an end stop or an abl.
You'll need a control board with a dual driver output to use dual axis align. I use it on my Tronxy X5S and the Marlin command is G34 for the auto-align feature. I use the bed levelling probe to do the alignment, bed levelling and Z min endstop. That way you can do away with any Z endstop limit switches. It works really well with an inductive probe and a PEI coated magnetic steel build sheet.
Thank you for this. I've decided to let go of my Enders and switch to this one. I just got tired of all the tinkering I had to do from time to time.
Good review. Nice clear and concise. Looks like a pretty decent printer for the price. If I was just starting out, this might well be my first choice.
just order one this morning ..good review thanks , im glad you are using Prusa slicer ..My Mac Book are as the same bug with Cura ...I prefer Prusa
Thank you, this might be the best review so far. I wanted to know about the hotend. Does it have one or two part cooling fan? I suspect switching the tube to Capricorn will help with the webbing. Thank again
Has a 4010 for the heatsink and dual 4010 blower fans. Have had mine about a month now.
Could use ducts to focus the air a bit better
dude.... it's 1am and it's on sale for 270.00 and I have had it in my cart for two hours... watched this and pulled the trigger. OY! Crosses fingers......
How has it been?
What is the hot end design, what is the thermistor model?
I'd check the firmware of the other printers for an option to disable the touch screen beep. It's probably there and just not enabled to change in the interface. Disable it and compile a new firmware. My Ender 3 Pro had a video assembling guide on the USB drive that shipped with the printer. Compared to the printed guide, it was an easier and more efficient way to assemble it.
I noticed on all of your prints side walls there is a lot of unevenness. Is the auto tensioners spring pressure or rigid screws. If they use some kind of spring there is definitely bouncing in the X-Y movements.
To me it looks like the extruder needs calibration, and that it could use a Linear Advance calibration as well. I’ve seen like 3 other reviews, and they seemed to be better calibrated out of the box.
One year later, does the Vyper come with the wifi chip now?
Did you have to use any adhesives when printing the different filemants on the included build plate?? Thanks for this Informative Review!
None at all! The PEI was great with no adhesives. Thanks for watching 😬
What would you recommend for the $500 range? Just starting out. I do need it to be accurate enough to print gears that will actually spin. Thanks for any tips!
Sidewinder, this, FLSun SR, an Ender 3 can accurately print gears for way under $500. Biqu BX if you have deep pockets.
How would you replace the parts colling Fan to get it to be less annoying ?
Noob here, What does a printer need to be compatible with klipper, from what ive heard the advanced features can really imporve prints, and it would be cool if i can do this in the future when my budget allows.
To me this looks very very close to my CR-6 SE in terms of features except the CR-6 has a filament run-out sensor and had a glass bed. I love my CR-6 SE though - print quality is ridiculous even at 100mm/sec. If this printer was a little cheaper to buy, it would have been a very appealing product.
Great review Daniel. Makes me want add a mate to my CR-6 SE
I want this bed system for my ender 3 now aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Hi I have been trying to set up my Vyper to print PEGT using a Cura slicer. It prints great until I introduce supports and I just can not seem to get it right. The supports just stick so well I can't get them off and the underside like the roof always has a terrible surface as if the filament is not sticking together on the first layer after a support. I would be so grateful for any advice pleas.
Ive had many prints stop mid print due to filament sensor malfunction. I updated the firmware and still experience it. Most times I just hit print resume and it might come back with the warning but at times it will continue to print for half a day before the error comes back.
I find that results are so much better when using Klipper as firmware. No ringing, much smoother surfaces.
This hardware can likely work fine (if the board can be supported) - including the leveling. But not the touch screen.
How do you install that?
Will you be reviewing the ender 3 S1?
Thank you for the very detailled test! Really great and informative! Have the i3 mega, which will be sold in favor for the vyper. Already preordered it, hopefully it will be shipped on 30.06.
Is your i3 bad or you just want to replace it for a newer one?
@@liraco_mx the i3 Was fine, but I had not enough space for All the Printers. Currently I have 4 Printers and a cure and wash Station.
Meanwhile I also got the vyper and it was impressive.... Until it failed. I am one of the victims of the Level sensor issues and also my y Motor Mount failed.
@@redwraith6576 yikes. Thanks for the feedback. I'm considering the Ender 3 v2 as my first printer at this point.
@@liraco_mx the ender is good, but also has its flaws. Perhaps you should also consider the eryone er20. If you want to tinker or Upgrade the ender is an extremly good base to Start with. Mine has nearly nothing to do with the Stock Model anymore.
Im chasing upgrades for my anycubic kossel linear plus, anycubic no longer sells parts and my heated bed build surface is worn and get no adhesion anymore, where would i get a new build surface and some 3rd party parts or upgrades that will fit the linear plus..
Has anyone anywhere done the ESP WiFi mod you mentioned??
I bought a Vyper and after calibrating and leveling it printed the owl. But that was it. The next print took the hotend below the bed and scratched the crap out of it. Anycubic told me that the sensor was bad and they send me another one within 15 days of filling their form. I returned the printer and ordered another one. I got exactly the same results. I just can't get a print because the hotend goes below level and will not print or autolevel, ever again. I'm sorry to say I won't try a third unit.
You said the hot end wasn't all-metal, but the neck of the heatbreak looked too thin for PTFE tubing. Wouldn't that mean it's all metal effective? My V6 clones all have a short length of PTFE to the all metal heatbreak.
My only issue with Anycubic is their shipping costs to New Zealand, there are other manufacturers that can offer shipping for fairly cheap to absolutely nothing, but Anycubic charges can be near the cost of the printer to get it here, with little to no explanation as to why they would charge that much more than other manufacturers. I'd definitely buy more of their products if that weren't the case
I used Banggood for mine. $75 for shipping and $9 for insurance. They still offered $299US for the Vyper . It all came to $562 NZ including gst
@@Mdbunn2013 I don't get why Aliexpress is so vastly different then, just checked before and in some cases, shipping costs more than the printer, it's ridiculous, but I'll definitely check out banggood, cheers
@@ravenous14 yes I found the same thing. Ive noticed there shipping charges have shot up on everything.
I’m getting over AliExpress, lost orders ,slow shipping. And even if you pay higher rate for fast shipping they still send via cheapest slowest.
My Vyper should arrive in two-three weeks. Cross fingers
Ordered mine monday as my intro printer. I am so stoked to make some nerf mods.
Do you recommend this one over a creality ender 3 V2? Or the 5 pro variant?
Well, mine finally arrived. Pretty much on time.
Unfortunately, before even getting it fully unboxed, I noticed the bed’s drive belt was broken/detached.
So, I’ve got a giant paperweight. Currently in the process of trying to get Anycubic to send a replacement. But, with the time difference, it’s been painfully slow.
Not too pleased with my first experience with Anycubic.
purchased this the other day and couldn't wait. It was supposed to be easy peasy. my only problem is that when I go to print the nozzle never touches the build surface. It just starts spitting out filament. tried to figure out z offset but couldn't get it going. any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Nice review! Think this will be a great printer for first time users.
Thanks Brotha! Yeah many of the printers I have tested feel so similar to each other. This one at least feels like it’s got some additional good stuff going on. I will likely run some big projects through it 😬
@@ModBotArmy - I haven’t tested nearly as many printers as you. I am at around a dozen printers. When I first saw this printer and read the features, I began thinking this was just a CR6-SE clone. However, the electronics are different, including the strain gauge, and the nozzle. To me, this looks to be the better alternative to the CR6SE, which has the most notably feature, the strain gauge.
I actually had no idea it was even similar to the 6SE until I published the video. Then quite a few comments said it looked very similar. I do have a 6SE on the way but it is not a review unit or intended to be used for reviewing. I am just excited to see how it does having used the Vyper and loving it. Most people that I have talked to that got the 6SE seem to be pretty happy with it.
Thanks...Great review. Subscribed.
Finaly i got my Anycubic Viper.The first one was destroyed during transport, the second was stolen during transport, but the third one arrived in good conditioning. But what a dissapointment. Whatever i do, it will not do automatic leveling.. First i have to put a metal object to the nozzle, then it is homing and starts to pre heat. In all the tutorials i have never seen or saw this. then it starts to level it but afer the first point it stops .Abnormal leveling point put off power and check wirering. I did check it, dubble chekend it but i cant find anything wrong. i dont know what to do now. Can you help me?
Would you get a Biqu b1 or the vyper ? is it worth the price difference?
I print where I need to change colors. How easy would it be to change filament in the middle of a print?
You keep showing printers I want to buy, can’t buy them all. Start showing printers I don’t want 🤣🤣🤣 another great video.
I will do my best to hunt out the worst printers possibly 😂
what are your thoughts Anycubic Vyper 3d Printer vs the Creativity v2? seems like this vyper is a pro version with all the upgrades. can this be upgraded to direct drive? I know its hard to reply to all messages hoping I get picked :)
My first printer was an Anycubic Predator, and that thing makes me really hesitant to try anything from Anycubic in the future. The specs were amazing, the price was right, but repairs were both frequently necessary and a pain in the ass. Especially once the thing went out of production a few weeks after I bought it, and parts became hard to find.
My first was the i3 mega, great printer, then i got the mega zero, also great but no heated bed (no problem, just added mag sheet), ordered a vyper yesterday.
@@GaryMcKinnonUFO I suspect my problems werre due to trying a delta first, coupled with the thing going out of production. Not necessarily their fault, but still enough to make me paranoid.
@@gatling216 Good points.
I'm chasing parts for my anycubic kossell linear plus and anycubic said they no longer make parts for it :( so no after sale support 😢 makes me very hesitant to buy another anycubic printer, all I wanted was another adhesive build surface for my heated bed and some new rail sliders for my frame or an ultrabase glass heated bed but was declined after sales parts and service so if you know anywhere I can still get parts to fix my printer please let me know 😢😢
Looks like there is some oozing at your seams/layer changes?! Maybe tweak your coasting settings???🤔