+Dave-Jill Nelson Not really, there is a plate on the bottom that blocks most of the water from getting trapped inside the plate slowing the holeshot down, but once its up on plane its out of the water by 5-6"
I always thought you wanted a jackplate to be raised all the way up when going on plane and slowly lower as you start to cavitate.It looks to me like you are running it way too low. I dont know it you gained much from all of that setback because the water is hitting the jackplate on plane which means you could have gone way further forward. I was a little nervous that your engine was going to go under when not on plane. Not trying to argue. just my opinion.
Allen Butler Ive always done it the opposite way, JP all the way down on take off then raise as you gain speed. Usually the deeper the jackplate the more chine walking will occur. With the boat setup in that video, that prop likes to run down deep when running a fully tourney load. Its sweet spot is 2" up on the plate, too high I will lose water pressure as well as speed and just throw big rooster tails only doing 60 mph. Most of that video was at cruising speed 50 - 60mph, I only open it up towards the end for a few seconds. When I want to run fast the plate is up higher and 95% of the hull is out of the water. I dont trust the suction cup mount enough to leave it there when running all out.
Ryan Pagano tether your Gopro with a rope. The suction cup mount sucks, especially with all that vibration. Make sure the rope extends past the outboard, so it doesn't hit it if it falls off- you will avoid damaging your cowl that way.
I had it attached to the console as well with 100lb mono. I do not trust the suction cup mount that much. The insurance line has saved me a couple times
A waste of plate height and money putting a jack plate so low on that boat then only using it jacked up 2 inches. You must have got the setup given to you for free to waste it like that.
@@salimsopari The thrust of the prop is everything important,,, on launch you want it as deep in the water as possible and as you get on top and gain speed you raise it for less friction. When running wide open throttle you want it so high that half of the lower unit and propeller are out of the water. This is called surface piercing and the boat runs most efficient at that point. A conventional I/O Inboard/Outdrive has 25% slip factor, a Surface Drive has 15% and lower. numbers will vary. If this boat is setup properly it will have 7-10% Slip Factor. Link to formula calculator; www.rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm Notice the prop location of this Surface Drive at speed; ua-cam.com/video/Of1RY4M8VqM/v-deo.html Hope it helps.
I beg to differ, stock from the factory this boat had a 10" manual jackplate. There are several gamblers out there with much larger plates than this, these boats love huge setback plates and have proven to increase performance over the smaller jackplates.
more setback allows the boat to "balance" on the pad, requiring less motor trim to keep the nose up. I think the motor needs to come up a few inches though, maybe requiring a new prop to run on the surface.
There's so much drag on that jacking plate at speed..
+Dave-Jill Nelson Not really, there is a plate on the bottom that blocks most of the water from getting trapped inside the plate slowing the holeshot down, but once its up on plane its out of the water by 5-6"
Love the jackplate but the beginning of the video it's just so slow lol
Agree...it actually caused me some anxiety to see it that low.
up to how many miles can the particular boat go?
Hull has built-in setback by design and calibrated for your hull. You having a tough time raising nose with your present setbak.
I always thought you wanted a jackplate to be raised all the way up when going on plane and slowly lower as you start to cavitate.It looks to me like you are running it way too low. I dont know it you gained much from all of that setback because the water is hitting the jackplate on plane which means you could have gone way further forward. I was a little nervous that your engine was going to go under when not on plane. Not trying to argue. just my opinion.
Allen Butler Ive always done it the opposite way, JP all the way down on take off then raise as you gain speed. Usually the deeper the jackplate the more chine walking will occur. With the boat setup in that video, that prop likes to run down deep when running a fully tourney load. Its sweet spot is 2" up on the plate, too high I will lose water pressure as well as speed and just throw big rooster tails only doing 60 mph. Most of that video was at cruising speed 50 - 60mph, I only open it up towards the end for a few seconds. When I want to run fast the plate is up higher and 95% of the hull is out of the water. I dont trust the suction cup mount enough to leave it there when running all out.
Ryan Pagano tether your Gopro with a rope. The suction cup mount sucks, especially with all that vibration. Make sure the rope extends past the outboard, so it doesn't hit it if it falls off- you will avoid damaging your cowl that way.
I had it attached to the console as well with 100lb mono. I do not trust the suction cup mount that much. The insurance line has saved me a couple times
hes doing it backward lol you have it correct, you jack it up
Each boat behaves different
A waste of plate height and money putting a jack plate so low on that boat then only using it jacked up 2 inches.
You must have got the setup given to you for free to waste it like that.
Your motor sinks alot at slow speeds. Maybe keep the jack plate up.
yeah his motor was like drowning a but lol
You know you just flooded your engine right
The bonnet looks not latched??
Anyone getting the lower cowl that submerged is asking for water hydrauliced cylinders.!!
Not a good idea submerging your motor like that
geoff good way to foul some spark plugs.
That cowl seal isn’t water tight keep doing that will toast that engine
@@DIPOUTDOORSTV no it will not 😂😂😂😂😂
so i’m not trying to seem dumb but what does the jackplate do?
not a silly question, i'm trying to learn too
@@salimsopari The thrust of the prop is everything important,,, on launch you want it as deep in the water as possible and as you get on top and gain speed you raise it for less friction. When running wide open throttle you want it so high that half of the lower unit and propeller are out of the water. This is called surface piercing and the boat runs most efficient at that point.
A conventional I/O Inboard/Outdrive has 25% slip factor, a Surface Drive has 15% and lower. numbers will vary. If this boat is setup properly it will have 7-10% Slip Factor. Link to formula calculator;
www.rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm
Notice the prop location of this Surface Drive at speed;
ua-cam.com/video/Of1RY4M8VqM/v-deo.html
Hope it helps.
@@robertjackson7590 wow thanks for the explanation!
@@salimsopari No problem,,,,,
I didn't know jack plates wobbled so much.
Probably the camera
I agree the engine does wobble
the engine is on rubber mounts that's why it moves around
Did you pick up any speed?
How fast will she run
Fastest shes gone is 83 light but tournament load is high 70s
0:00 heeeyyyy whats up man!!!!!!
Them mercury problems😂
Is that a gambler bass boat
yes it is
Good video, thanks
Nice G
That's way to much Jack plate. those boats are only rated for a 6" jack plate no more
I beg to differ, stock from the factory this boat had a 10" manual jackplate. There are several gamblers out there with much larger plates than this, these boats love huge setback plates and have proven to increase performance over the smaller jackplates.
more setback allows the boat to "balance" on the pad, requiring less motor trim to keep the nose up. I think the motor needs to come up a few inches though, maybe requiring a new prop to run on the surface.
I seen a guy in Alabama with a 7 Foot jack plate! They called him Jack plate Jack on the lake!😂🤣😂🤣 He was all about the jack plate!
Верх идиотизма.
What a waste of money, lol.
qlrx seksler