Oopsie, think Tim may have had a little too much coffee when he did that one. Jokes aside, there is a harness that already exists that does (almost) that - the Metolius SafeTech Harness had rated gear loops, so you could belay/anchor off them. That said, don’t do it with that Ocun harness - those are definitely just gear loops!!
I’m similarly interested, but appear to be the last person to get my hands on one!! Apparently we’re getting one out of the next batch to arrive in the UK and we’ll try to turn around the review as quick as we can (but after as much use as possible) 🤞
I'm curious about what you guys think. I have tested it and am absolutely sold! It's a brilliantly versatile device and despite people's claims I think it feels very safe.
If you have a tennis elbow you'd want more distance between you and the device instead of less. It is already awkward to pull on the handle of a grigri and it would be more ergonomic if it would be higher up.
So it's actually a rebranded Salewa Ergo (both owned by the same company!!) and has been available for over 10 years now actually. But WC decided to grab it and rebrand 🤷🏼♂️
I have climbed with it a bit already. It's not really anything different from a grigri+. Feels decently similar when giving and taking slack. You do have a tiny bit more rope to pull because it sits lower, but it's not a massive difference. My main complaint would be that the closure system can be accidentally opened when belaying by pressuring the button with the rope (this can definitely happen when belaying with the "gaswerk-methode"). This can be a huge problem on thinner belay loops like you get on lightweight harnesses. Wider belay loops on harnesses like the corax keep everything together quite well, but you'll still be belaying with a slightly opened belay device. I'd very strongly recommend you always loop a carabineer in the eyelet after closing the mechanism to prevent any chance of the pinch opening up.
1:42 I've never seen a Grigri selling for £115, even from small retailers - it pretty much always been retailing for £60-70. I think you were referring to the Neox which is £110?
Having just delved a bit deeper I can see what we did here. We Googled the RRP's of each of the various models, but quoted the GRIGRI+'s price - which is indeed £115. Standard GRIGRI is £90 and NEOX is £125. That said, the performance of the Pinch sounds closer to the GRIGRI+ and NEOX, so we'd still argue it presented a good deal in terms of its specs.
I've discovered recently that when a rope is wet GriGri's slip, leading to an alternating fast-slow lower rate. I was lowered okay but with a slightly hard landing. But it had only just started raining, so now I wonder if this might be dangerous in heavier rain and/or with slimmer, slick or new ropes? Is this something that always happens once it's raining? More importantly what would happen if I took a leader fall with a wet ropes? Could the slip lead to hitting a ledge or decking? Has this been tested?
I will say, having gotten to use a pinch, I am not as enthused. First, the feed method being more tube style is not exactly as positive because you intend to keep hands away from the device which means if the device ever applies resistance you are not in a position to override this. There isn't a great way to override the pinch, either. The common position from grigri use, index finger beneath a flange atop the side plate and thumb pinching the top of the body, places the index knuckle directly against the button... which opens when pressed upward. Why isn't there a second stage to this? Why is the button action on the top? Why is this on the right side? As a left handed belayer, this last part in particular baffles me because even just mirroring the device would've made me never notice that I can, while trying, attempt to feed slack while touching the device and open the side plate. It still is not likely to come open as the plate will likely catch rather than freely swing... but what a minor claimed advantage for the introduction of something catastrophic to the system. Also, long term tests with dirt getting in? Potential issues in ice climbing? I would hate for the button to not click down well enough or even just not be able to open it up. Like, I like Edelrid. Bulletproofs carabiners are amazing, the TC series of ropes are my favorite, and they've helped make Red Chili a serious climbing shoe brand (though I don't climb with them), plus helmets and harnesses seem to have some great features and feels to them. Belay devices... I think the MegaJul was neat but had problems which the GigaJul tried to correct by taking away the weight, size, and ease of the MegaJul. I won't belay with a pinch, mostly because camming devices are awkward for left handers, but I won't allow someone to belay me direct off the loop either.
Interesting observation regarding left handed operation, as that's not something we'd have covered within our review as we're all right handed; however, we'll be sure to mention it off the back of this feedback.
@@ukclimbingofficial to note, this is not a product of my left handed belaying but rather belaying right handed as I would need to on a GriGri for decent feeding of rope. If the opening mechanism were on the left side of the Pinch, I would never notice the possibility to open even as a left handed. Hopeful that was more clear.
@@Furansowakun Hey, So it will be released March time. It's only been shown to retailers and press so far so there isn't much information on the market yet!
3:24 - wow, 5 belay loops! 😂 that’s a lot of ropes to manage 😝 3:31 - But only one gear loop so all your pieces are hitting you in the groin - well, at least it’s dynema, so it can hold plenty of gear. (joking, obviously - we all brain-fart sometimes)
From the feedback we've seen it sounds like it handles quite differently, maybe more like a NEOX than a GRIGRI (either standard, or plus). That said, we'll refrain from further comment until we've tried one out.
@@daanschone1548 Ok, the feedback we've had is that it feeds out slack similarly well, but as per my previous comment - we'll refrain from further comment until we've actually tried one out. At the moment we're just going on the opinions of others and we'd prefer to comment from first hand experience.
Y'all, @ukclimbingofficial knows what he's talking about. I own a Neox and have personally tested the Pinch, and I can say with certainty that on my 9mm rope they feed very similarly. That said, on thicker (10.5) ropes the Neox is less grabby whereas the pinch starts to behave more like a grigri on thin rope. Also, the Pinch is substantially better and smoother at lowering as compared to either the Grigri or Neox. Not sure how they did it but it blew me away! It really is an incredibly convenient device that seemed very safe the entire time I used it. Once they are back in stock I'll definitely get my own (the one I tested was a pre-release version).
@@zachh7375 I have to take my hands on one. But from the looks of it I dislike the ditching of the biner. It could be better than the Neox if it would be more grigri like safetywise. I like the Neox, but I think it is only slightly better than devices like the ATC pilot. Pricewise I'd say the ATC pilot and such are way better. And if you'd want the safest options I'd say a grigri of a revo (perhaps the pinch) is best.
I just replied to another comment about this. I think Tim had potentially had a few too many coffees when he did this. In addition to that, when the camera turns on its amazing the things that you say - I’ve come out with all sorts over the years, things I’d never usually get wrong I consistently get wrong whilst being filmed 🤦♂️🤣
@@ukclimbingofficial understandable 🙃5 belay loops, you'd be the most popular person at the crag😂 I have struggled to find a harness with enough gear loops in the past so nice to see.
About time someone came out with a harness with 5 belay loops 😂
Oopsie, think Tim may have had a little too much coffee when he did that one. Jokes aside, there is a harness that already exists that does (almost) that - the Metolius SafeTech Harness had rated gear loops, so you could belay/anchor off them. That said, don’t do it with that Ocun harness - those are definitely just gear loops!!
Pinch looks interesting!
I'd never thought of an option of eliminating a krab.
I’m similarly interested, but appear to be the last person to get my hands on one!! Apparently we’re getting one out of the next batch to arrive in the UK and we’ll try to turn around the review as quick as we can (but after as much use as possible) 🤞
I'm curious about what you guys think. I have tested it and am absolutely sold! It's a brilliantly versatile device and despite people's claims I think it feels very safe.
If you have a tennis elbow you'd want more distance between you and the device instead of less. It is already awkward to pull on the handle of a grigri and it would be more ergonomic if it would be higher up.
the wild country device is just a smart/pilot isn't it?
Looks exactly like a fusion between the two
So it's actually a rebranded Salewa Ergo (both owned by the same company!!) and has been available for over 10 years now actually. But WC decided to grab it and rebrand 🤷🏼♂️
@@smashbadger2460 Interesting I see!
@@ClimberGW so ye, nothing new technology wise but boosts WC rope controller offering which is a smidge meh
@@smashbadger2460 looks like they added rubber to it, am I right?
Would really like to have a play with the Pinch (for sport climbing). Also curious whether it is any good for top-rope soloing.
Robbie Phillips had something on it. Can't remember if it was on UA-cam or his insta he was lead soloing on it.
I have climbed with it a bit already. It's not really anything different from a grigri+. Feels decently similar when giving and taking slack. You do have a tiny bit more rope to pull because it sits lower, but it's not a massive difference.
My main complaint would be that the closure system can be accidentally opened when belaying by pressuring the button with the rope (this can definitely happen when belaying with the "gaswerk-methode"). This can be a huge problem on thinner belay loops like you get on lightweight harnesses. Wider belay loops on harnesses like the corax keep everything together quite well, but you'll still be belaying with a slightly opened belay device.
I'd very strongly recommend you always loop a carabineer in the eyelet after closing the mechanism to prevent any chance of the pinch opening up.
1:42 I've never seen a Grigri selling for £115, even from small retailers - it pretty much always been retailing for £60-70. I think you were referring to the Neox which is £110?
Having just delved a bit deeper I can see what we did here. We Googled the RRP's of each of the various models, but quoted the GRIGRI+'s price - which is indeed £115. Standard GRIGRI is £90 and NEOX is £125. That said, the performance of the Pinch sounds closer to the GRIGRI+ and NEOX, so we'd still argue it presented a good deal in terms of its specs.
I've discovered recently that when a rope is wet GriGri's slip, leading to an alternating fast-slow lower rate. I was lowered okay but with a slightly hard landing. But it had only just started raining, so now I wonder if this might be dangerous in heavier rain and/or with slimmer, slick or new ropes? Is this something that always happens once it's raining? More importantly what would happen if I took a leader fall with a wet ropes? Could the slip lead to hitting a ledge or decking?
Has this been tested?
I will say, having gotten to use a pinch, I am not as enthused. First, the feed method being more tube style is not exactly as positive because you intend to keep hands away from the device which means if the device ever applies resistance you are not in a position to override this. There isn't a great way to override the pinch, either. The common position from grigri use, index finger beneath a flange atop the side plate and thumb pinching the top of the body, places the index knuckle directly against the button... which opens when pressed upward.
Why isn't there a second stage to this? Why is the button action on the top? Why is this on the right side? As a left handed belayer, this last part in particular baffles me because even just mirroring the device would've made me never notice that I can, while trying, attempt to feed slack while touching the device and open the side plate. It still is not likely to come open as the plate will likely catch rather than freely swing... but what a minor claimed advantage for the introduction of something catastrophic to the system.
Also, long term tests with dirt getting in? Potential issues in ice climbing? I would hate for the button to not click down well enough or even just not be able to open it up.
Like, I like Edelrid. Bulletproofs carabiners are amazing, the TC series of ropes are my favorite, and they've helped make Red Chili a serious climbing shoe brand (though I don't climb with them), plus helmets and harnesses seem to have some great features and feels to them. Belay devices... I think the MegaJul was neat but had problems which the GigaJul tried to correct by taking away the weight, size, and ease of the MegaJul.
I won't belay with a pinch, mostly because camming devices are awkward for left handers, but I won't allow someone to belay me direct off the loop either.
Interesting observation regarding left handed operation, as that's not something we'd have covered within our review as we're all right handed; however, we'll be sure to mention it off the back of this feedback.
@@ukclimbingofficial to note, this is not a product of my left handed belaying but rather belaying right handed as I would need to on a GriGri for decent feeding of rope. If the opening mechanism were on the left side of the Pinch, I would never notice the possibility to open even as a left handed. Hopeful that was more clear.
When the Wild country belay device will be released ? Which price ? Can’t find informations on internet
It's out next year and it'll be £60 with the carabiner and £42 without.
@@ukclimbingofficial Ok thanks
@@ukclimbingofficial Next year which month ? Aha I’m a bit curious, I don’t find any informations about it except your video
@@Furansowakun Hey, So it will be released March time. It's only been shown to retailers and press so far so there isn't much information on the market yet!
@@smashbadger2460 Thanks
3:24 - wow, 5 belay loops! 😂 that’s a lot of ropes to manage 😝
3:31 - But only one gear loop so all your pieces are hitting you in the groin - well, at least it’s dynema, so it can hold plenty of gear.
(joking, obviously - we all brain-fart sometimes)
I just wish my brain farted less on camera 😅
You guys just welded a biner on a grigri plus.
From the feedback we've seen it sounds like it handles quite differently, maybe more like a NEOX than a GRIGRI (either standard, or plus). That said, we'll refrain from further comment until we've tried one out.
@@ukclimbingofficial from what I've seen on UA-cam it doesn't compare to tje Neox at all. (Which I've tested)
@@daanschone1548 Ok, the feedback we've had is that it feeds out slack similarly well, but as per my previous comment - we'll refrain from further comment until we've actually tried one out. At the moment we're just going on the opinions of others and we'd prefer to comment from first hand experience.
Y'all, @ukclimbingofficial knows what he's talking about. I own a Neox and have personally tested the Pinch, and I can say with certainty that on my 9mm rope they feed very similarly. That said, on thicker (10.5) ropes the Neox is less grabby whereas the pinch starts to behave more like a grigri on thin rope. Also, the Pinch is substantially better and smoother at lowering as compared to either the Grigri or Neox. Not sure how they did it but it blew me away! It really is an incredibly convenient device that seemed very safe the entire time I used it. Once they are back in stock I'll definitely get my own (the one I tested was a pre-release version).
@@zachh7375 I have to take my hands on one. But from the looks of it I dislike the ditching of the biner. It could be better than the Neox if it would be more grigri like safetywise. I like the Neox, but I think it is only slightly better than devices like the ATC pilot. Pricewise I'd say the ATC pilot and such are way better. And if you'd want the safest options I'd say a grigri of a revo (perhaps the pinch) is best.
pretty sure he's confused belay loop with gear loop
I just replied to another comment about this. I think Tim had potentially had a few too many coffees when he did this. In addition to that, when the camera turns on its amazing the things that you say - I’ve come out with all sorts over the years, things I’d never usually get wrong I consistently get wrong whilst being filmed 🤦♂️🤣
@@ukclimbingofficial understandable 🙃5 belay loops, you'd be the most popular person at the crag😂 I have struggled to find a harness with enough gear loops in the past so nice to see.