I'm restoring a 1986 International 9670. You are a wealth of info, to a novice like me. Thank you so much. You give me the break, I've been looking for. Derek
Damn..... I just changed my front bearings yesterday and taking out those racers; was a pain.... I should’ve watched this video before but didn’t find anything. But there will always be a next time thanks I’m subscribing to your channel.👍
Hey thanks for your videos. I'm a new subscriber as of now. I'm a new owner op and been doing it for about a year now. I've been learning and turning my wrenches on my truck for a couple months now . With extensive research to ensure quality and a job done right. About attend an online college for my career diploma . This will go side by side. Thanks again!
Thanks. For. The. Videos. I. Am. A. Journey. Man. Technician. In. Training. I. Already. Have. Seven. Years. Of. Heavy. Duty. Truck. And. Equipment. Repairs. Experience. Going. On. Eight. Years. I. Am. A. New subscriber. Keep. The. Videos. Coming. I. Plan. To. Get My. Cdl. And become. A. Diesel. Technician.
awesome man. i am by no means a master tech. but iv owned and been working on trucks for a while now. have some formal education in automotive repair really its all kinda the same its all just nuts and bolts its just the nuts and bolts are bigger.....lol good luck on goals . i think i have my next 5-6 video's already recorded just waiting on time for editing. hoping to start editing my next upload here shortly hopefully post this evening or tomorrow morning with any luck....lol
when i do a seal or bearings on my truck i replace the double nut with the stemco single nut with the lock clip.. its a nice system ... their spec is 200ft lbs spin 200 spin 200 spin... loosen then 100ft lbs spin 100 spin 100 spin .. then back nut off 1/8 turn..
thanks for this! while banging out the races (mine were super stuck) I gouged the metal on both sides of the rotor, can i just sand it and put in the new ones or do I need to change the rotor? Thanks
Dont see where the welding the race is necessary when you still have to beat them out. I just use an old S cam that i cut off to beat them out and an old race with an old S cam welded to it to drive the new ones in. Works just fine. Great video though.
1998 peterbilt 379 installed new spindle on driver side new bearing and new seal did just like your video and hub gets hot has no more than 5000 of play on dial. hopefully you can help. Thanks
how hot are we talking? got a laser thermometer? i have always found hubs run a little warmer than normal on new bearings/seals for the first few weeks. .005 end play would be a little on the loose side but generally too tight will cause excess heat not too loose. if were not talking 200-250* i would run it a while checking everything over frequently and see if it starts running a bit cooler after some miles
can I suggest a tip pre load that bearing with wheel bearing grease when you put it in the race it will save burning up the bearing and race that light oil will score the bearing and race.do it right just a tip to prevent bearing failure. l'm a mechanic thats what I was taught.
I have we got a fleet of 5000 truck and several thousand peaces of off Rd equipment lve been at this 40 years + I got umpteen trucks worth 2-3 million apeace on the road .l work for the second largest power utility in North America. before the government fucked us over we had 12 to 15 thousand employees.
how often do you check wheel studs or replace them. lve saw several places up here shut down and put out of business because of flying wheels. you get caught hear loosing a wheel it's jail one guy from Quebec lost one on 401 and killed the guy in the car government seized company put them out of business, driver got 12 yrs in jail, that happened this spring. improper pre trip inspection. just food for thought. where you at.lm in ont. canada.
I was first shown the bearing welding trick on D8 final drives. On truck hubs if you get enough weld in cup and wait for it to cool off, it should fall out. Front spindle nut final torque is usually 50 ft lbs and back off to the first lock tab after backing off 1/4 turn. That always seemed kinda loose to me. I've been torquing to the 50, then back just enough to get the lock. I haven't lost one in 40+ years.
Before I knew that there was a torque procedure that was how I was doing it , and I've since checked myself with a torque wrench and the way I always did was within a couple of lbs.. So I figure my feel is good enough .
Really dumb question for you EZ but I was wondering, I have a Stemco 4045 cap on my wheel hub and I couldn’t find 2 that were going for a good deal so I bought 2 4009 Stemco caps, only difference I can see is the new 4009s look like they hold more fluid capacity for the hub but they fit great! But is that going to make any difference and it should be ok I hope? It fits just like that last ones did haha 😅😅🤷🤷 again sorry for the dumb question brother
@@Ezrider359 thanks for getting back with me brother I really do appreciate it! Hope the Pete is running strong for ya man and hope your having a good weekend!
I use nitrogen on the race install . My trucker trick it’s called pinging it with punch and hammer . You know all the tricks . My father and uncles taught me how about you?
really a lot of people along the way and not being shy to ask questions or talking to people who have been around longer than myself. ill probably do a video sometime this summer that kinda tells my story of where i started and how i learned.
Wouldn't the material that raises up when dimpling the spindle be rubbed off after a short amount of time due to the minute surface area, especially if the spindle is worn due to extra bearing movement? Seems like an unnecessary risk of material damaging the rollers of a bearing.
its been a while sense iv messed with a Npr pretty sure it would be grease would need to see the hup cap to know for sure though. even if it was oil bath though you could still grease pack it and it would be fine.
I think you should like your Venmo to accept tips. I think you’re well aware of the time and money you save people. I’d send you $20 beer money without a second thought. I’m sure others would too.
Apparently you didnt go Through Wheel end training by the people who built these parts to last. Installations like this is why wheel seals fail and bearings come apart. That wheel seal needs to be intalled with the proper seal installer to keep the air gap in the seal straight and breathing. And NEVER install a bearing race with flat steel. you will damage the surface. use a brass punch.
Its apprent you have zero real world experience..99% of the time when tightening the nut like that if you do choose to check it with a dial indicator it will be in spec...
I have been doing this for 30 years. So ya I have no experience in a shop watching idiots use the wrong tools for the job. Probably why you all will stay stuck at the level of wheels seals and brakes. Good thing I didnt get trained by skf on why seals and bearings are installed the way they are. You all must be doing it way better. Stupid schools and design companies. Lol what do they know over some back yard tarts hacking their shit together
Yea you go ahead and do that on a big truck and report back when you loose a wheel..your actually suppose to check the run out with a dial indicator but 99.9% of the time when you do it like he did it's within spec.
@@leejohnson6173all in the specs of the manufacturer. there are different specs. mine calls for 125, back off a half, 50lb then back off a quarter. then install lock and lock nut to a high torque. local pro shop did it the feel way with 0 clearance on the adjuster nut and had to pay axle surgeons to fix their mistake. never again. nobody touches my wheel bearings but me now.
@@leejohnson6173 i torque mine to 75 foot pounds with the drum wheels and tires installed. i don't back it off just spin the wheels a few times and make sure i'm still at 75. i know newer equipment has a different spec but my stuff is 20 to 30 years old.
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!!! I scratched my hub after watching and doing this. Nearly ruined it! Do it right, uses long 30” or so pry bar. Seal comes right out.
Bro your doing everything wrong . By using the old race it will end up getting stuck and waste time to pull it out.. they have tools for 80 bucks on amazon to install new races they look like flat disks and have a tool that pulls the racers out ... Front hubs are always the easiest try doing drive axles on a Volvo semi or even on a trailer
iv done this job 100's of times and the point of this video was to show how it can be done with just the most basic tools. obviously using specialty tools makes the job easier.
@@MitzvosGolem1thats what the pros at a local shop said. then they had to pay axle surgeons to fix their mistake on my crane. spun the bearing 35 miles away from their shop.
Been in the trade for over 25 and never seen a seal removed like that! Really easy and simple versus fighting with heal bars. Thanks for the cool tip!
I love watching your videos. You inspire me to keep going with my own repairs whenever possible, saving some serious cash. Thank you!!!
Thanks for the tips
Have a 94 T800 gonna need all that done to it here real soon
👍👍 keep up the good work !
You are an excellent mechanic. Know your stuff I appreciate the expertise and knowledge you give all of us.
You are very helpful to all of us truck driver s that pay to have everything done. I'm for sure going to do lots more stuff myself. thanks
Thank you sir, for taking the time to make videos. Pls keep them coming. At work no one wanked to bearings and cups until I did like your video.
Hey man, I managed to do the bearings on my bus. Thanks again for the videos and tips man, you made that job a LOT easier.
glad to hear that.
Thanks again for such a good vídeo, especially for that trick to stop the bearings from spinning on the Spindle!!!, I'll be using that from now on.
I'm restoring a 1986 International 9670. You are a wealth of info, to a novice like me. Thank you so much. You give me the break, I've been looking for. Derek
I am glad my videos are helping you out. Good luck on your project
Damn..... I just changed my front bearings yesterday and taking out those racers; was a pain.... I should’ve watched this video before but didn’t find anything. But there will always be a next time thanks I’m subscribing to your channel.👍
welcome aboard.
Practice makes perfect. ... Good job.. Ur doin right.. Keep making awesome videos to teach America. How it's Done.!!!!
Thank you
Great VIDEO
Excellent job true, “Craftsman.”
Hey thanks for your videos. I'm a new subscriber as of now. I'm a new owner op and been doing it for about a year now. I've been learning and turning my wrenches on my truck for a couple months now . With extensive research to ensure quality and a job done right. About attend an online college for my career diploma . This will go side by side. Thanks again!
Glad you are enjoying the videos 👍
Good job and good mechanic thank you may God bless you
You my friend are a legend 🙌!!
Can throw the races in the freezer the night before to make them go in a little easier, too.
Thanks. Just what i needed.
Great videos.
Great video. 👍🏾
thank you
Thanks for the tips
A lot of knowledge thank you.
Nice video 👍👍
Thanks. For. The. Videos. I. Am. A. Journey. Man. Technician. In. Training. I. Already. Have. Seven. Years. Of. Heavy. Duty. Truck. And. Equipment. Repairs. Experience. Going. On. Eight. Years. I. Am. A. New subscriber. Keep. The. Videos. Coming. I. Plan. To. Get My. Cdl. And become. A. Diesel. Technician.
awesome man. i am by no means a master tech. but iv owned and been working on trucks for a while now. have some formal education in automotive repair really its all kinda the same its all just nuts and bolts its just the nuts and bolts are bigger.....lol good luck on goals . i think i have my next 5-6 video's already recorded just waiting on time for editing. hoping to start editing my next upload here shortly hopefully post this evening or tomorrow morning with any luck....lol
Ezrider92356 great. Video. Brother. Learning a. Lot
Great job learn a lot thanks
Good job thank you.
Thank you, every time. Thanks
Your the man!!
Nice tips....thanks
thank you for watching.
when i do a seal or bearings on my truck i replace the double nut with the stemco single nut with the lock clip.. its a nice system ... their spec is 200ft lbs spin 200 spin 200 spin... loosen then 100ft lbs spin 100 spin 100 spin .. then back nut off 1/8 turn..
Thats what I have also
Good tips sir
Hey ez enjoyed video. Have you ever split old race with thin grinding wheel. Then after pounding new race in old race comes out Easier.
Thank for making this video. June 2024
Your awesome
Either you make it look easy or I make it look hard. I'm guessing I'm the culprit here. Nice job!
thanks. i don't have a single piece of equipment newer than 2006 so i get plenty of practice on these kind of repairs...lol
I'm a big fan of the older stuff too. I have an I4700 from '93. Easy for my mechanic to fix on the very rare occasions it needs it.
my green Mack is a model year 2000 and closing in on 1.3 million miles and i would take it any day over a 2010+ truck and all the problems they have.
Kick ass trick
GOOD JOB MARINE
thank you sir.
You the man.
thanks for this! while banging out the races (mine were super stuck) I gouged the metal on both sides of the rotor, can i just sand it and put in the new ones or do I need to change the rotor? Thanks
Dont see where the welding the race is necessary when you still have to beat them out. I just use an old S cam that i cut off to beat them out and an old race with an old S cam welded to it to drive the new ones in. Works just fine. Great video though.
Thank you!
Thank you.
When you install the new races with the old is the reason the old races don't stick in the hub is because they are warm?
What size socket are you using and is that a 12 point or 6 point
The race got 2 side do you kno which side go which way
There are Scott seals XL Plus and you can push it in by hand. Don't have to use a hammer
What size. Socket you used brother thanks learning a lot
the one that fit...lol i am sorry but i don't remember specifically on this one.
1998 peterbilt 379 installed new spindle on driver side new bearing and new seal did just like your video and hub gets hot has no more than 5000 of play on dial. hopefully you can help. Thanks
how hot are we talking? got a laser thermometer? i have always found hubs run a little warmer than normal on new bearings/seals for the first few weeks. .005 end play would be a little on the loose side but generally too tight will cause excess heat not too loose. if were not talking 200-250* i would run it a while checking everything over frequently and see if it starts running a bit cooler after some miles
can I suggest a tip pre load that bearing with wheel bearing grease when you put it in the race it will save burning up the bearing and race that light oil will score the bearing and race.do it right just a tip to prevent bearing failure. l'm a mechanic thats what I was taught.
Never had a bearing score pre lubed with gear oil. Probably not a bad idea though
I have we got a fleet of 5000 truck and several thousand peaces of off Rd equipment lve been at this 40 years + I got umpteen trucks worth 2-3 million apeace on the road .l work for the second largest power utility in North America. before the government fucked us over we had 12 to 15 thousand employees.
you can use a bearing packer. I just use wheel bearing grease and roll it in my hand working it well into the bearing
how often do you check wheel studs or replace them. lve saw several places up here shut down and put out of business because of flying wheels. you get caught hear loosing a wheel it's jail one guy from Quebec lost one on 401 and killed the guy in the car government seized company put them out of business, driver got 12 yrs in jail, that happened this spring. improper pre trip inspection. just food for thought. where you at.lm in ont. canada.
I was first shown the bearing welding trick on D8 final drives. On truck hubs if you get enough weld in cup and wait for it to cool off, it should fall out.
Front spindle nut final torque is usually 50 ft lbs and back off to the first lock tab after backing off 1/4 turn. That always seemed kinda loose to me. I've been torquing to the 50, then back just enough to get the lock. I haven't lost one in 40+ years.
Before I knew that there was a torque procedure that was how I was doing it , and I've since checked myself with a torque wrench and the way I always did was within a couple of lbs.. So I figure my feel is good enough .
Really dumb question for you EZ but I was wondering, I have a Stemco 4045 cap on my wheel hub and I couldn’t find 2 that were going for a good deal so I bought 2 4009 Stemco caps, only difference I can see is the new 4009s look like they hold more fluid capacity for the hub but they fit great! But is that going to make any difference and it should be ok I hope? It fits just like that last ones did haha 😅😅🤷🤷 again sorry for the dumb question brother
I don't know those numbers by memory. If it fits holds oil and doesn't leak it's probably fine
@@Ezrider359 thanks for getting back with me brother I really do appreciate it! Hope the Pete is running strong for ya man and hope your having a good weekend!
The most easiest way I know 👍
Put the races in the freezer this will help with installation when they are cold and ever slightly smaller
yup and also warm up the hub.
Looks like an old timer showed you a few tricks over the years.
a few different old timers over the years.
I use nitrogen on the race install . My trucker trick it’s called pinging it with punch and hammer . You know all the tricks . My father and uncles taught me how about you?
really a lot of people along the way and not being shy to ask questions or talking to people who have been around longer than myself. ill probably do a video sometime this summer that kinda tells my story of where i started and how i learned.
U MY FRIEND ARE A FUCKING GENIUS ESE ...👍🏽💯💯💯
I dunno about genius but thank you 👍
@@Ezrider359 OK I ADMIT IT YEAH U DON'T LOOK LIKE MUCH OF A GENIUS .....YOU ARE A TRUCKING GOD...🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Wats ur Instagram?
@@dredricktatum3015 i don't have a instagram but i do have a Facebook page under the same name as the youtube channel Ezrider92356
Wouldn't the material that raises up when dimpling the spindle be rubbed off after a short amount of time due to the minute surface area, especially if the spindle is worn due to extra bearing movement? Seems like an unnecessary risk of material damaging the rollers of a bearing.
Dimpling makes it so the race doesn't move. Witch means no additional wear risk of damage and the the bearing is basically non existent
How else to get the races out if I don't have a Welder? Just Beat them out with A chisel or Punch?
yeah you don't have to weld a bead on the races it just makes it easier.
I have an Isuzu NPR 16,000 GVW
Grease or gear oil on that?
It has grease.
its been a while sense iv messed with a Npr pretty sure it would be grease would need to see the hup cap to know for sure though. even if it was oil bath though you could still grease pack it and it would be fine.
Ezrider92356 thank you.
You are awesome and generous to contribute like this!
Never seen an oil bath Isuzu. Tons of those bastards in the Penske fleet. Typically the 16 foot straight trucks are all grease packed
Hi. How many bearing are in the hub?
THERE ARE 2 1 AT FRONT AND 1 ON BACK
I think you should like your Venmo to accept tips. I think you’re well aware of the time and money you save people. I’d send you $20 beer money without a second thought. I’m sure others would too.
Welding a cup actually expands the diameter , as it cools it shrinks the cup . The center punching is a waste .
Apparently you didnt go Through Wheel end training by the people who built these parts to last. Installations like this is why wheel seals fail and bearings come apart. That wheel seal needs to be intalled with the proper seal installer to keep the air gap in the seal straight and breathing. And NEVER install a bearing race with flat steel. you will damage the surface. use a brass punch.
Hardened steel of bearing won't get damaged by soft steel.
1976 started and been doing that never had issues with seals either...
Special seal installer to have a air gap to breath 🤣🤣 i can tell you can read instructions but you lacking badly with experience
@@user-do4ti9wb1s my experience is perfection stupid.. Back woods builds are for the guys broke down aside the road.
Its apprent you have zero real world experience..99% of the time when tightening the nut like that if you do choose to check it with a dial indicator it will be in spec...
I have been doing this for 30 years. So ya I have no experience in a shop watching idiots use the wrong tools for the job. Probably why you all will stay stuck at the level of wheels seals and brakes. Good thing I didnt get trained by skf on why seals and bearings are installed the way they are. You all must be doing it way better. Stupid schools and design companies. Lol what do they know over some back yard tarts hacking their shit together
I know this trick lol
Weren’t you supposed to back that nut off again after the last tightening sequence and then hand tighten
Yea you go ahead and do that on a big truck and report back when you loose a wheel..your actually suppose to check the run out with a dial indicator but 99.9% of the time when you do it like he did it's within spec.
@@leejohnson6173all in the specs of the manufacturer. there are different specs. mine calls for 125, back off a half, 50lb then back off a quarter. then install lock and lock nut to a high torque. local pro shop did it the feel way with 0 clearance on the adjuster nut and had to pay axle surgeons to fix their mistake. never again. nobody touches my wheel bearings but me now.
@@leejohnson6173 i torque mine to 75 foot pounds with the drum wheels and tires installed. i don't back it off just spin the wheels a few times and make sure i'm still at 75. i know newer equipment has a different spec but my stuff is 20 to 30 years old.
I’ll take my chances on tightening a wheel bearing his way than on 90% of these 125.00 hr shop technician nowdays
put the oil in the rear bearing BEFORE putting assembly... sigh...
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!!! I scratched my hub after watching and doing this. Nearly ruined it! Do it right, uses long 30” or so pry bar. Seal comes right out.
Dude ,You need to get ride of the music..
Some videos have music some don't some people like it some don't can't please everyone. Thanks for your input though
Bro your doing everything wrong . By using the old race it will end up getting stuck and waste time to pull it out.. they have tools for 80 bucks on amazon to install new races they look like flat disks and have a tool that pulls the racers out ... Front hubs are always the easiest try doing drive axles on a Volvo semi or even on a trailer
iv done this job 100's of times and the point of this video was to show how it can be done with just the most basic tools. obviously using specialty tools makes the job easier.
no torque wrench . no dial indicator . you do not know your end play on the wheel bearing ! WTF !!!!
By feel kid...after a few hundred NYC garbage trucks you get a feel for it..
@@MitzvosGolem1thats what the pros at a local shop said. then they had to pay axle surgeons to fix their mistake on my crane. spun the bearing 35 miles away from their shop.
@@petejohnson8397 we had a GMK 5120 big hubs planetary gears go cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$