The cooling path for the spark plugs are through the threads. When the plugs are loose the plugs run very hot damaging the seal at the porcelain causing them to leak.
i assure you, my 50 yr old CJ8 is NOT FAKE! lol, its always the plug i throw into any small engine (that takes them) that has... "issues". iunno why, its like a good luck charm...
Jimmy, never just "guess" on the torque spec of the spark plugs. Always look up the correct torque for your particular engine. They vary. Also I would recommend replacing those ignition coils along with the plugs. That way you will have no issues moving forward for the next 100k miles.
That's rust on the outside of the sparkplugs. AND they may have been arcing at the coil connection. I recommend replacing all the coils as well as the plugs.
I have a 2004 4Runner with this V8 engine with 242,000 mi at the time I did a spark plug and all eight coil packs replacement. The plugs have been replaced a few times over the twenty years. The coil packs were original. I have never seen that kind of plug failure. Could yours have been counterfeits? I was getting random catalyst engine codes before the tune up. 246,000 mil now, no codes and runs great. I replaced the coils just because of them being twenty years old. They were still working, but I have noticed that the engine has more power now.
Japanese plugs have a plating that prevents galling. However, it might be a good idea to use a bit on the black colored AC , motorcraft and so on. But be careful not to over torque.
my ocd doesnt allow me to replace just one coil...good quality parts arent cheap but usually last longer. On whatever Im working one I try to do it once and be good to go for a long time. thanks for sharing ! enjoy the updates on the Toyota.
The brown staining around the hex part and the porcelain part of the plug is called the Corona stain looks it up, it's normal to see on spark plugs. You have to be careful as there are fakes on eBay and Amazon.
have you ever been toi a factory who produces Spark Plugs and have seen which machinery iss needed to produce them? OBVIOUSLY NO !!! I have an di can tell you it's actually impossible to make "Fake ones".... that's an Urban legend!
I've had a spark plug fail in a perfectly running (modern) car in the middle of a family road trip because I didn't change them...and the maintenance shop I took it to left me hanging for over a day diagnosing it. They had originally told me the coil was bad because of a misfire code and had to put the part on order. You need to change them before the maintenance interval even if the platinum or iridium tips last practically forever.
What I've seen on that sort of spark plug arrangement is that what your seeing is rust from water intrusion into the spark plug area past the spark plug boot. Its common on the Ford 4.6L and 5.4L engines, often to the point that the spark plug is deteriorated so bad it snaps off. While a leak form the inside is possible the excaping of compression gasses there would be audible much like a manifold leak, and the pug wire would likely have been far more damaged. That mostly looks like water and rust issues to me. While at Ford, they told us to use silicone dielectric grease to coat everything in the hole, the plug, the boot, the wire, etc to make all components hydrophobic. But also to chase the plug hole threads and coat the plug threads with anti seize compound which they supplied. They also stressed the importance of using only aluminum based anti seize, not the various other copper, nickle or other variations as it promoted dissimilar metal reactions. The issue of counterfeit plugs also creeps up lately but I've not found any in OEM installations yet but ceramic elements coming loose are common but generally they're broken inside and the electrode end is loose or missing. The way a plug is formed makes it fairly difficult for it to fall apart in a way to create a leak, the compression itself would tend to force the seal. even the most rusted plugs I found have never leaked or let go of their ceramic core. One instance where I have seen broken ceramic insulators has been due to water intrusion, where cold water rusted in on a hot plug. I've also had vehicles come in with all of the plug holes filled with water that had been running like that for a long time with cracked isulators and cooked boots from months of both secondary voltage leaks and exposure to water and rust in the hole. Most drove in, but generally were there for misfire issues.
There is a real problem with plugs the quality is very poor these days once you changed plugs because it was time or you had it in a long time and its still good, but these days the plugs barely get 3 to 5 weeks so there are a lot of 'knock offs' in the market place. I live in jamaica and the plug qualities are very poor and lead to all sort of problems, because of their failure. I miss the days when plugs were in your car for 2 years and were still good when you changed them.
You answered the "what do your valve covers look like" in your Valvoline R&P oil change video. Now you have a baseline on the varnish that should get cleaned by the R&P over time.
That makes sense. I had that on several cars, back when cars had a remote coil. When I saw "rust" or "carbon", I assumed that was just gasses building up. None of them had loose plugs and I'd often see similar on most or all of the set. I didn't think of a leak at the time. Of course with all the fake plugs being sold these days, who knows what those you pulled were... and a lot of guys in the past didn't bother with a torque wrench.
I don’t think you had combustion gases leaking through the spark plugs. More like moisture that has been trapped and stained the porcelain. Same goes for the coil ends.
Have seen this on old sparkplugs. All the sparkplug websites I looked at said to not apply anti-seizure. In the older days it was needed but plugs now have an improved coating in the threads area. The sites also provide the torque specification.
I had a spark plug leaking compression at the base of the ceramic by the steel casing. It was covered in soot while the rest of the plug was spotless. Also the igintion coil was covered in soot. That explain why it felt laggy when accelerating and I only could get about 11psi of boost. I changed all the plugs and coils since the coils already had 148k miles on them. My car is back running perfectly and getting 21psi of boost now. First time I experienced a leaking spark plug.
When I called NGK a few years back concerning spark plugs in BMW N52 6 Cylinder Engine, they recommended replacing (in any vehicle) Platinum Plugs at 60k and Iridium Plugs at 75k. Yes, you can definitely get more miles out of them. They start to see performance degradation (mpg etc.) at those points. Also I have pulled plugs out that had over 90k and it scared me because they were "Fried in there" - carbon build up - I thought I was stripping the aluminum head. I changed the Iridium Spark Plugs in 2010 Honda CRV that 40k on it but they were 11 years old (original plugs). They all had those brown rings at the base of the porcelain, not as bad, but still there. I noticed the engine was more responsive after the change. Age and Heat Cycles, I am sure play a part in the life cycle of a spark plug.
I think the corner cylinders would run a little cooler, accounting for the difference in spark plug color. Let it get hot and check with temp gun. Those headlights sure could use some Cerakote, it did wonders for my CTS. Great job on the videos.
8:38 When I was younger, I never torqued spark plugs. I always just got them hand tight with an extension and then another 1/4 -1/2 turn with a rachet. A few days ago, I was changing plugs on my wife's car, and thought I would "do it right". I set my torque wrench to 12 ft lbs, I started getting to that "this is kind of scary" moment, but it had not yet clicked. I ended up snapping the plug in half and had to tow it to a shop to fix. The wrench never clicked. Could be user error, or faulty torque wrench, but I doubt I will be using a torque wrench on plugs in the future.
An oil leak into the spark plug well can also cause that issue. Many spark plugs with crush washers are designed to be hand tightened and then torqued not by a torque wrench but just a certain number of degrees from hand tightening. It's usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond hand tightening and that's what's needed. So then it won't matter if you have anti-seize or not. A torque wrench is only good when you have the ideal conditions that only really occurring at assembly.
I just changed plugs on 2014 Acura RDX 3.5L with 90,000 miles. I bought this RDX new for my wife. The same effect was found on all 6 plugs! Gases were passing each plug? Never listen to vehicle manufacture about 100,000 mile spark plugs! After changing plugs the gas economy came back and the get up and go increased which pleased the wife…….
I cant remember if you replaced the intake O-rings and fuel injector O-rings, but if you haven't you need too. Just like the valve cover gasket they get almost crystal like and crack. Both my 05 Tundra's with the 4.7l where that way, and once I replaced the intake and injector seals she ran smooth.
Did you test the ignition coils?? I use Bosch coils and when they fail and break down they track down the plug, the manual insists using Dielectric grease and give exact location to put the grease, my thought was as the engine warms up condensation forms and makes the coils fail and 'burn' the plugs like you have shown.
A light tan/brown ring close to the metal is normal, but the dark brown and chunky rust is due to water getting to them due to some water getting by the cowl. That one with chunky stuff was likely blowing gases by the metal to the ceramic combined with the water causing rust. At 5:30, thats just normal surface rust rubbing onto the new coil, perfectly normal.
Anti-seize is not recommended because some of the thread go into the combination camber. And can cause hot spots on the anti-seize causing pre-ignition. That is the main reason…
@@ED-ti5tcat every 100k, lot of parts should be changed as preventative maintenance. Stuff like water pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, serpentine belt, etc.
My old school way of "torqueing" sparks plugs... If it has a washer, once its stops threading in, turn 1/4 turn to torque it. If it does not have the washer, turn 1/8 turn to torque it. Done. 🙂
I disagree on the anti-sieze. I always use a thin coat, and if it's a tapered seat plug, I torque to the lower end of the spec. For gasketed plugs, you don't really need a torque wrench, they should be tightened a specified amount beyond hand tight. It should be listed on the box, and is usually around 1/2 turn.
I think the discolouration is more likely due to ozone reacting with moisture and the iron in the plug. Plenty of ozone is generated due to the fast rising high voltage impulses. Ozone is highly corrosive and what you are seeing is more likely rust that has bled up from the interface and stained the ceramic. I've seen this many times on spark plugs that were perfectly fine. In your car, the plugs and coils aren't ventilated so the corrosion and staining would be worse. Not that a spark plug can't fail that way, but the staining is very common on plugs that have been left in for a few years.
I never thought about spark plugs leaking like that before, the white ceramic must go through the entire inside and thus make a good seal on the surrounding metal. Until it gets brittle and fails
Hello sir, At this moment I own 6 Toyota, love them all. I would advise you to change the PCV valve;they are cheap. Those old plugs appears to over heated. Good luck bro
It's as old as cars !! My 1973 car has them. Think some people need to read up on stuff before posting videos. Ever heard of lots of heat on rubber components?? Lol
Excellent video Jimmy :) also would get a Grey or Black bottle of a STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in full fuel tank with 89 octane gas with 5% Ethonal or 90 octane gas with no Ethonal % at all ! Never problems ever use from Love or Sunco gas companies help lots ! Also use Fram 2X air filter plus PC Valve too and fuel filters too !
I had this problem on my 4cylinder toyota 3sz engine. Found out the problem was from the leak of my valve cover gasket, letting oil sip into the plug wells over time. Replaced it, replaced new plugs and problem solved.
Corona stain Corona stain is a light brown or tan discoloration on the outside of the ceramic insulator above the metal shell/hex. Corona stain is created by the high voltage traveling thru the plug that attracts the dirt or oil particles surrounding the exposed ceramic insulator between the wire/coil boot and spark plug metal shell. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or a broken seal inside the spark plug.
I've seen a spark plug actually separate the porcelain. the customer was hearing an intermittent knocking sound on a 76 mercury cougar with a 302 and was worried his engine was bad. at first I heard nothing and was thinking I was going to be unable to duplicate, then idling in my bay I finally heard it and was zeroing in on where it was coming from when I saw a spark plug wire dancing around on the drivers side. at first I thought it was a loose plug because I've seen that multiple times, but I removed the plug wire and the plug was tight in the threads but found the porcelain was moving in and out every time that cylinder fired but would wedge and stay occasionally. so yes I would say it is possible to leak there but if the plug is loose then more than likely that was the cause. also you are correct to not use anti seize on spark plugs. spark plugs ground through the threads and anti seize does not conduct electricity, also anti seize will double whatever torque you put on the plugs damaging the threads. anti seize only leads to misfires that are undetectable by the ECM because the spark is weak not gone and weak spark leads to unburnt fuel, then unburnt fuel ends up in your engine oil and catalytic converters leading to expensive repairs over time, poor fuel economy, reduced power and rough running.
While it doesn't present itself as a problem yet, having a matched set of 8 coils would be best for absolute longevity, especially with the digitally controlled coils. Many Japanese brands do so and don't tell the customer, the impedance and resistance of those coils should test similarly with a quality multi-meter just to be sure. The computers measure that automatically and factor that into it's air fuel calcs. Otherwise, the grounds are good as from the previous videos. There should be no visual deformations let alone soot/burnt boots when checking those coils. Halve the plug change intervals to 60k miles and save whatever's left of the cats so there's fewer problems to deal with in the next 100k at least. Toyotas are long lasting, but proper preventative maintenance just allows them to thrive! If and when you do get the new coils, I'd suggest rotating the inner and outer coils so they get even heat exposure over their lifetime. Say switch them every 10k. 🙂
Jimmy, I ran across a video on YT (don’t remember the channel) where a guy running the Valvoline R & P and he changed the filter after 800 miles & the filter & cut it open & it was plugged already. So he is gonna change the filter every 500 miles for at least the first oil change. He was using a Fram endurance filter.
Have you ever tried using oil additives such as Liqui-Moly's CeraTec? Supposedly, It reduces friction and wear, contributing to the reliability of thar Toyota engine, and also making the engine quiter a few hundred miles after.
Again another absolutely awesome video. you have made me think real hard about recording all the stuff I do on my vehicles, Audio hardware, etc. I have had the center electrode Break on 2 Bosch Platinum +4 plugs but not seen a plug blow compression between the ceramic insulator and the Shell. If I could share a Picture I would that does show they have sealing material between the ceramic isolator and the shell so Yes I do think they can do exactly what you were thinking.
If you do a lot of work to your vehicles and you have a decent camera (iPhone works great) you absolutely should think about recording it all. Could turn into a decent side hustle. Just study your favorites and watch their style. See what you like and don’t. And, go for it! 🤙
Same thing happened to me on my 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander with 145k I had never changed the plugs. 🔌 think those plugs had internal failure on the element and began to overheat. Causing the burnt color on coils and plugs.
Sparkplugs can fail, the internal part can fall of and fly off from the engine, but it's such a rare event that I expect a very low number worldwide! I also thought that these are gases pressing through the porcelain-metal interface. The official wording of the manufacturers of sparkplugs is that the air inside the new coils is hot and could get ionized what causes a discoloration of production residue around this interface. As sparkplugs are getting longer lasting I personally tend to assume that small traces of hot gases pass through. But I'm unable to give scientific evidence.
I hate to say it but I think I agree with other people. Those look like fake Densos. Just the printing on the porcelain looks “cheap” for a denso plug. Maybe they are real but still.. great video!
For sparkplugs. I call that a ring of death. Blowbye is going through the sparkplug. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. None are perfect. The best to say I ever had was Autolight. When I was buying them. They would work no matter what and had a long lifespan. Yet. Had their problems as well. You see that. Replace them. My doul sport motorcycle was acting up. I took out the sparkplug. It had the ring of death. After replacing it. It ran perfectly.
the torque is not as important as the proper crush on the washer putting anti-seeze doesn't affect that old timers usually turn till seated then about 1/4 turn for crush on washer
Threads of the spark plug need a bit of lube to properly tighten, probably that didn't happen "if" they were replaced. If the gasket isn't compressed the plug will overheat , causing some preignition , & even more heat because it can't transfer the heat to the block., worse yet they may draw in air, & run even leaner creating more heat (but mostly in the area of the plug). I usually try to feel for the gasket compressing, & then torque it to specs or even slightly above based on other engines with the same head material (aluminum or cast iron).Obviously plugs that have more threads can stand more torque , & this can be another good indicator of how tight they can be . Finally in this case I would run them ,& check the tightness after a month!
ceramic Antiseize is fine for spark plugs. almost all spark plugs have a torque range, on my car that would be 15-25 Nm. If someone wants to apply antiseize just go for the low end of that range for your vehicle
• Appearance: Discoloration of the ceramic insulator, near to the shell • Cause: Particles of oil/gas (in the spark plug well), becoming attracted to the ceramic by the magnetic field created by the high voltage current flowing through the spark plug • Effect: Not detrimental to spark plug operation • Remedy: Ensure that spark plug “well” is clean when installing new spark plugs
Never put new coils on old plugs ! Spark plug need to be torq to spec. Clean plug tubes, in the box says torq. spec. Use anti seize lube to prevent a freeze plug or galling the threats.
You better put anti seize compound on your plug thread. The steel threads on the plug will seize to the thread on the aluminum heads & the threads will strip out next time you remove the spark plug...
I've never done it and they always come out with no problem, maybe because the engine hasn't overheated? Either way you shouldn't need to if torqued right
Engine oil, , , , Amsoil 100% Synthetic 5W30 is what I use in my '01 Tundra 4.7 engine. Amsoil is the Best Motor Oil on the Market. If you can't afford Amsoil, The Important thing is to change your engine oil regularly
The cooling path for the spark plugs are through the threads. When the plugs are loose the plugs run very hot damaging the seal at the porcelain causing them to leak.
Makes perfect sense. 👍👍
They all get like that overtime loose or not.
@@1RoadGarage Not just perfect sense mate, it's a fact
@@Thumper68exactly they just have that
@@Thumper68all plugs leak overtime? Lol You aren't a mechanic are you?
Old Spark plugs might be fakes. Should definitely stay away from Amazon specials
i assure you, my 50 yr old CJ8 is NOT FAKE!
lol, its always the plug i throw into any small engine (that takes them) that has... "issues". iunno why, its like a good luck charm...
Fake plugs ⚠️⚠️⚠️👎👎👎👎
Yes, that is a typical leak point as they age.
I commented on the previous video.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. 👍
Jimmy, never just "guess" on the torque spec of the spark plugs. Always look up the correct torque for your particular engine. They vary. Also I would recommend replacing those ignition coils along with the plugs. That way you will have no issues moving forward for the next 100k miles.
That's rust on the outside of the sparkplugs. AND they may have been arcing at the coil connection. I recommend replacing all the coils as well as the plugs.
Also replace coils with hardened boots.
Their electric insulation properties have been compromised.
absolutely. coild are a wearing part like plugs. with the age of the plugs it would have been a smart choice to replace plugs and coils all over
@@oliknowcoils are not wear items
I have a 2004 4Runner with this V8 engine with 242,000 mi at the time I did a spark plug and all eight coil packs replacement. The plugs have been replaced a few times over the twenty years. The coil packs were original. I have never seen that kind of plug failure. Could yours have been counterfeits? I was getting random catalyst engine codes before the tune up. 246,000 mil now, no codes and runs great. I replaced the coils just because of them being twenty years old. They were still working, but I have noticed that the engine has more power now.
Good move...I have the same V8.. every time I touched one they went bad.. did all 8 too.. 255 k now
Old plugs are hard on coils, drawing more current to spark, and lead to coil failure. Replace to owners manual.
I always use a bit of Anti-Seize Jimmy.
Also I use the German Torque Method, it's called "Good -in-Tight!
Using anti-sneeze on NGK's will cause over torquing.
Japanese plugs have a plating that prevents galling. However, it might be a good idea to use a bit on the black colored AC , motorcraft and so on. But be careful not to over torque.
Antiseize may change the grounding characteristics. It could actually act like an insulator?
as a german I don't want any to do with sloppy work
No anti seize on aluminum heads. Every plug has a special coating
my ocd doesnt allow me to replace just one coil...good quality parts arent cheap but usually last longer. On whatever Im working one I try to do it once and be good to go for a long time. thanks for sharing ! enjoy the updates on the Toyota.
it is not ocd, it is common sense. this kind of parts wears evenly, if one is replaced, all should go
The brown staining around the hex part and the porcelain part of the plug is called the Corona stain looks it up, it's normal to see on spark plugs. You have to be careful as there are fakes on eBay and Amazon.
have you ever been toi a factory who produces Spark Plugs and have seen which machinery iss needed to produce them?
OBVIOUSLY NO !!!
I have an di can tell you it's actually impossible to make "Fake ones".... that's an Urban legend!
I've had a spark plug fail in a perfectly running (modern) car in the middle of a family road trip because I didn't change them...and the maintenance shop I took it to left me hanging for over a day diagnosing it. They had originally told me the coil was bad because of a misfire code and had to put the part on order. You need to change them before the maintenance interval even if the platinum or iridium tips last practically forever.
you see discoloration due to heat not gas escaping which is highly unlikely. This is very common on high mileage spark plugs
Unless and until some PROOF is brought forward that this is a leakage issue, I agree. See my main comment.
For the clunking, I seem to remember the Care Care Nut said any front end noise over bump is likely the swaybar bushing
What I've seen on that sort of spark plug arrangement is that what your seeing is rust from water intrusion into the spark plug area past the spark plug boot. Its common on the Ford 4.6L and 5.4L engines, often to the point that the spark plug is deteriorated so bad it snaps off. While a leak form the inside is possible the excaping of compression gasses there would be audible much like a manifold leak, and the pug wire would likely have been far more damaged.
That mostly looks like water and rust issues to me.
While at Ford, they told us to use silicone dielectric grease to coat everything in the hole, the plug, the boot, the wire, etc to make all components hydrophobic. But also to chase the plug hole threads and coat the plug threads with anti seize compound which they supplied. They also stressed the importance of using only aluminum based anti seize, not the various other copper, nickle or other variations as it promoted dissimilar metal reactions.
The issue of counterfeit plugs also creeps up lately but I've not found any in OEM installations yet but ceramic elements coming loose are common but generally they're broken inside and the electrode end is loose or missing. The way a plug is formed makes it fairly difficult for it to fall apart in a way to create a leak, the compression itself would tend to force the seal.
even the most rusted plugs I found have never leaked or let go of their ceramic core.
One instance where I have seen broken ceramic insulators has been due to water intrusion, where cold water rusted in on a hot plug. I've also had vehicles come in with all of the plug holes filled with water that had been running like that for a long time with cracked isulators and cooked boots from months of both secondary voltage leaks and exposure to water and rust in the hole. Most drove in, but generally were there for misfire issues.
There is a real problem with plugs the quality is very poor these days once you changed plugs because it was time or you had it in a long time and its still good, but these days the plugs barely get 3 to 5 weeks so there are a lot of 'knock offs' in the market place.
I live in jamaica and the plug qualities are very poor and lead to all sort of problems, because of their failure.
I miss the days when plugs were in your car for 2 years and were still good when you changed them.
You answered the "what do your valve covers look like" in your Valvoline R&P oil change video. Now you have a baseline on the varnish that should get cleaned by the R&P over time.
That makes sense. I had that on several cars, back when cars had a remote coil. When I saw "rust" or "carbon", I assumed that was just gasses building up. None of them had loose plugs and I'd often see similar on most or all of the set. I didn't think of a leak at the time. Of course with all the fake plugs being sold these days, who knows what those you pulled were... and a lot of guys in the past didn't bother with a torque wrench.
I don’t think you had combustion gases leaking through the spark plugs. More like moisture that has been trapped and stained the porcelain. Same goes for the coil ends.
I've seen plugs leak there. 1995
All my original plugs were flame pattern bleed thru , ceramic to metal base. 35000 miles. Not loose. Hmm! Toyo taco 2.7l 2018. Yes a low mile jewel!
Have seen this on old sparkplugs.
All the sparkplug websites I looked at said to not apply anti-seizure. In the older days it was needed but plugs now have an improved coating in the threads area.
The sites also provide the torque specification.
Why didn't you just change the plugs when you dud all that initial work? I don't understand
Take the old plug. Place it electrode up and put a few drops of lite oil in and see if the oil flows thru.
I had a spark plug leaking compression at the base of the ceramic by the steel casing. It was covered in soot while the rest of the plug was spotless. Also the igintion coil was covered in soot. That explain why it felt laggy when accelerating and I only could get about 11psi of boost. I changed all the plugs and coils since the coils already had 148k miles on them. My car is back running perfectly and getting 21psi of boost now. First time I experienced a leaking spark plug.
Clean the throttle body. That will reduce or cure the slight shake.
When I called NGK a few years back concerning spark plugs in BMW N52 6 Cylinder Engine, they recommended replacing (in any vehicle) Platinum Plugs at 60k and Iridium Plugs at 75k. Yes, you can definitely get more miles out of them. They start to see performance degradation (mpg etc.) at those points. Also I have pulled plugs out that had over 90k and it scared me because they were "Fried in there" - carbon build up - I thought I was stripping the aluminum head. I changed the Iridium Spark Plugs in 2010 Honda CRV that 40k on it but they were 11 years old (original plugs). They all had those brown rings at the base of the porcelain, not as bad, but still there. I noticed the engine was more responsive after the change. Age and Heat Cycles, I am sure play a part in the life cycle of a spark plug.
I think the corner cylinders would run a little cooler, accounting for the difference in spark plug color. Let it get hot and check with temp gun. Those headlights sure could use some Cerakote, it did wonders for my CTS. Great job on the videos.
Great video Capt. Obvious. So you think the plugs failed from complications of old age... Good catch!
8:38 When I was younger, I never torqued spark plugs. I always just got them hand tight with an extension and then another 1/4 -1/2 turn with a rachet. A few days ago, I was changing plugs on my wife's car, and thought I would "do it right". I set my torque wrench to 12 ft lbs, I started getting to that "this is kind of scary" moment, but it had not yet clicked. I ended up snapping the plug in half and had to tow it to a shop to fix. The wrench never clicked. Could be user error, or faulty torque wrench, but I doubt I will be using a torque wrench on plugs in the future.
An oil leak into the spark plug well can also cause that issue.
Many spark plugs with crush washers are designed to be hand tightened and then torqued not by a torque wrench but just a certain number of degrees from hand tightening. It's usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond hand tightening and that's what's needed. So then it won't matter if you have anti-seize or not.
A torque wrench is only good when you have the ideal conditions that only really occurring at assembly.
I just changed plugs on 2014 Acura RDX 3.5L with 90,000 miles. I bought this RDX new for my wife.
The same effect was found on all 6 plugs! Gases were passing each plug? Never listen to vehicle manufacture about 100,000 mile spark plugs! After changing plugs the gas economy came back and the get up and go increased which pleased the wife…….
I cant remember if you replaced the intake O-rings and fuel injector O-rings, but if you haven't you need too. Just like the valve cover gasket they get almost crystal like and crack. Both my 05 Tundra's with the 4.7l where that way, and once I replaced the intake and injector seals she ran smooth.
Did you test the ignition coils?? I use Bosch coils and when they fail and break down they track down the plug, the manual insists using Dielectric grease and give exact location to put the grease, my thought was as the engine warms up condensation forms and makes the coils fail and 'burn' the plugs like you have shown.
A light tan/brown ring close to the metal is normal, but the dark brown and chunky rust is due to water getting to them due to some water getting by the cowl. That one with chunky stuff was likely blowing gases by the metal to the ceramic combined with the water causing rust. At 5:30, thats just normal surface rust rubbing onto the new coil, perfectly normal.
Maybe check the steering rack and/or sway bar frame bushings.
Man you 2 are going to love owning that.
Yep ,and the sway bar end links clunk as well.
I'm a toyota fanboy hence i love watching toyota related content
Clunking is definitely stabilizer bar link. Replace both sides, they're fairly inexpensive.
Change all the coils ! Who knows how long the old ones are and how “good” they actually function. My two cents
Anti-seize is not recommended because some of the thread go into the combination camber. And can cause hot spots on the anti-seize causing pre-ignition. That is the main reason…
Great video! I'll be checking my plugs for those markings. Never paid anything attention before. 4Runner looks good.
Thanks Ed! Hope this video helps! 👍
@@1RoadGarage Most definitely did. Thanks
@@ED-ti5tcat every 100k, lot of parts should be changed as preventative maintenance. Stuff like water pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, serpentine belt, etc.
My old school way of "torqueing" sparks plugs... If it has a washer, once its stops threading in, turn 1/4 turn to torque it. If it does not have the washer, turn 1/8 turn to torque it. Done. 🙂
I am a pro tech and have noticed that the smaller sized plugs (Denso,NGK) are having this issue more. And these were torqued properly.
Headlights restore?
Anytime two (2) different types of metal are in contact, especially threaded, you want to use anti-seize.
I disagree on the anti-sieze. I always use a thin coat, and if it's a tapered seat plug, I torque to the lower end of the spec.
For gasketed plugs, you don't really need a torque wrench, they should be tightened a specified amount beyond hand tight.
It should be listed on the box, and is usually around 1/2 turn.
I think the discolouration is more likely due to ozone reacting with moisture and the iron in the plug. Plenty of ozone is generated due to the fast rising high voltage impulses. Ozone is highly corrosive and what you are seeing is more likely rust that has bled up from the interface and stained the ceramic. I've seen this many times on spark plugs that were perfectly fine. In your car, the plugs and coils aren't ventilated so the corrosion and staining would be worse. Not that a spark plug can't fail that way, but the staining is very common on plugs that have been left in for a few years.
I never thought about spark plugs leaking like that before, the white ceramic must go through the entire inside and thus make a good seal on the surrounding metal. Until it gets brittle and fails
I have a 05 Tacoma v6 4x4 trd with 540,000 miles. I've changed 2 coil packs. One at 330,000 and one at 501,000.
Hello sir,
At this moment I own 6 Toyota, love them all.
I would advise you to change the PCV valve;they are cheap. Those old plugs appears to over heated.
Good luck bro
You better check about corona stain of a spark plug..its completely normal condition😂😂
It's as old as cars !!
My 1973 car has them.
Think some people need to read up on stuff before posting videos.
Ever heard of lots of heat on rubber components?? Lol
those crush washer plugs usually go about 3/4 turn then it is fully crushed and you stop tightening you can feel it suddenly get much harder to turn.
The replacements on Ford 5.4 Triton are super prone to this!
If spark plugs are used until you squeeze the heck of them, the porcelain part sometimes gets completely loose in the metal housing.
Excellent video Jimmy :) also would get a Grey or Black bottle of a STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in full fuel tank with 89 octane gas with 5% Ethonal or 90 octane gas with no Ethonal % at all ! Never problems ever use from Love or Sunco gas companies help lots ! Also use Fram 2X air filter plus PC Valve too and fuel filters too !
I had this problem on my 4cylinder toyota 3sz engine. Found out the problem was from the leak of my valve cover gasket, letting oil sip into the plug wells over time. Replaced it, replaced new plugs and problem solved.
Corona stain
Corona stain is a light brown or tan discoloration on the outside of the ceramic insulator above the metal shell/hex. Corona stain is created by the high voltage traveling thru the plug that attracts the dirt or oil particles surrounding the exposed ceramic insulator between the wire/coil boot and spark plug metal shell. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or a broken seal inside the spark plug.
You remind me of the dad from the 80s family sitcom Family Ties.
Michael J Fox played his teen son in it.
I've seen a spark plug actually separate the porcelain. the customer was hearing an intermittent knocking sound on a 76 mercury cougar with a 302 and was worried his engine was bad. at first I heard nothing and was thinking I was going to be unable to duplicate, then idling in my bay I finally heard it and was zeroing in on where it was coming from when I saw a spark plug wire dancing around on the drivers side. at first I thought it was a loose plug because I've seen that multiple times, but I removed the plug wire and the plug was tight in the threads but found the porcelain was moving in and out every time that cylinder fired but would wedge and stay occasionally. so yes I would say it is possible to leak there but if the plug is loose then more than likely that was the cause. also you are correct to not use anti seize on spark plugs. spark plugs ground through the threads and anti seize does not conduct electricity, also anti seize will double whatever torque you put on the plugs damaging the threads. anti seize only leads to misfires that are undetectable by the ECM because the spark is weak not gone and weak spark leads to unburnt fuel, then unburnt fuel ends up in your engine oil and catalytic converters leading to expensive repairs over time, poor fuel economy, reduced power and rough running.
While it doesn't present itself as a problem yet, having a matched set of 8 coils would be best for absolute longevity, especially with the digitally controlled coils. Many Japanese brands do so and don't tell the customer, the impedance and resistance of those coils should test similarly with a quality multi-meter just to be sure. The computers measure that automatically and factor that into it's air fuel calcs. Otherwise, the grounds are good as from the previous videos. There should be no visual deformations let alone soot/burnt boots when checking those coils. Halve the plug change intervals to 60k miles and save whatever's left of the cats so there's fewer problems to deal with in the next 100k at least. Toyotas are long lasting, but proper preventative maintenance just allows them to thrive! If and when you do get the new coils, I'd suggest rotating the inner and outer coils so they get even heat exposure over their lifetime. Say switch them every 10k. 🙂
I had two Splitfires of 8 fail like this.
1985 Ford 2.3 turbo.
The Splitfires were noticably better power than new Motorcraft.
Jimmy, I ran across a video on YT (don’t remember the channel) where a guy running the Valvoline R & P and he changed the filter after 800 miles & the filter & cut it open & it was plugged already. So he is gonna change the filter every 500 miles for at least the first oil change. He was using a Fram endurance filter.
Maybe the motor oil geek guy?
Using valvoline restore.
Use for three oil changes to slowly clean up.
@@sheepdog3828 no. I looked for it and the name of the channel is A Toolbag.
Is that the colour of combustion gases ? Maybe it's from the dielectric grease you put on your coil boot before you push it onto the plug
You need At least 15ftlbs for proper heat dissipation and for them to not come loose again
Have you ever tried using oil additives such as Liqui-Moly's CeraTec?
Supposedly, It reduces friction and wear, contributing to the reliability of thar Toyota engine, and also making the engine quiter a few hundred miles after.
I changed my spark plugs on my wife’s 2017 Corolla with 36,000 miles on it and they had that brown ring on them at the base of the ceramic.
Why your at it Jimmy polish your headlights 🤔
Again another absolutely awesome video. you have made me think real hard about recording all the stuff I do on my vehicles, Audio hardware, etc. I have had the center electrode Break on 2 Bosch Platinum +4 plugs but not seen a plug blow compression between the ceramic insulator and the Shell. If I could share a Picture I would that does show they have sealing material between the ceramic isolator and the shell so Yes I do think they can do exactly what you were thinking.
If you do a lot of work to your vehicles and you have a decent camera (iPhone works great) you absolutely should think about recording it all. Could turn into a decent side hustle. Just study your favorites and watch their style. See what you like and don’t. And, go for it! 🤙
@@1RoadGarage I watch as much as you post. as well as @RainmanRaysRepairs.
Also, a uber quick google search says (aluminium head) sparkplug torque for your toyota is 18.0-21.6 ft-lb.
Please use a 1/4 in drive torque wrench for accuracy.
Iv have this happened on my 5 spark plugs the e3 keeped all blowing out and 1 bad coil bc of it only couple dozen miles on them
What? I think you need a spell checker
@@cat22_a1 um ok. It's very easy to read
Just picked up some protect and restore oil for my Lexus. Oil Chan due soon
Same thing happened to me on my 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander with 145k I had never changed the plugs. 🔌 think those plugs had internal failure on the element and began to overheat. Causing the burnt color on coils and plugs.
That's rust and moisture staining, not combustion gasses leaking. A little anti sieze would help, i would torque to 15-20 ft lbs.
Are u saying the AS would help with rust?
Why is it so orange-brown? Are you using MMT octane booster?
Sparkplugs can fail, the internal part can fall of and fly off from the engine, but it's such a rare event that I expect a very low number worldwide!
I also thought that these are gases pressing through the porcelain-metal interface.
The official wording of the manufacturers of sparkplugs is that the air inside the new coils is hot and could get ionized what causes a discoloration of production residue around this interface.
As sparkplugs are getting longer lasting I personally tend to assume that small traces of hot gases pass through. But I'm unable to give scientific evidence.
I hate to say it but I think I agree with other people. Those look like fake Densos. Just the printing on the porcelain looks “cheap” for a denso plug. Maybe they are real but still.. great video!
I think it had been said , if one ignition coil needs replacing , replace all .
I had this happen to a 2 cycle 400 cc. single cyl. air cooled motorcycle engine.
Any time two diff. Metals are in contact its a good idea to use something to keep them from causing issues... because THAT will happen
Next time check the coiled wire (spring) inside the coil pack boot. Some are just steel and corrode.
I'd check the valve seals maybe
Rislone with PEA is a great injection cleaner.
For sparkplugs. I call that a ring of death. Blowbye is going through the sparkplug. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. None are perfect. The best to say I ever had was Autolight. When I was buying them. They would work no matter what and had a long lifespan. Yet. Had their problems as well. You see that. Replace them. My doul sport motorcycle was acting up. I took out the sparkplug. It had the ring of death. After replacing it. It ran perfectly.
the torque is not as important as the proper crush on the washer putting anti-seeze doesn't affect that old timers usually turn till seated then about 1/4 turn for crush on washer
Maybe a simple PCV valve replacement will help?
Threads of the spark plug need a bit of lube to properly tighten, probably that didn't happen "if" they were replaced. If the gasket isn't compressed the plug will overheat , causing some preignition , & even more heat because it can't transfer the heat to the block., worse yet they may draw in air, & run even leaner creating more heat (but mostly in the area of the plug). I usually try to feel for the gasket compressing, & then torque it to specs or even slightly above based on other engines with the same head material (aluminum or cast iron).Obviously plugs that have more threads can stand more torque , & this can be another good indicator of how tight they can be . Finally in this case I would run them ,& check the tightness after a month!
Always get your plugs from a dealer. Never flea bay or Amazon.
ceramic Antiseize is fine for spark plugs. almost all spark plugs have a torque range, on my car that would be 15-25 Nm. If someone wants to apply antiseize just go for the low end of that range for your vehicle
You can replace just the coil boots on those coils
Evidences is a verb, not a noun.
Nice video.
Look up "Spark plug corona stain" its normal with spark plugs that have a lot of miles on them.
• Appearance: Discoloration of the
ceramic insulator, near to the shell
• Cause: Particles of oil/gas (in the spark
plug well), becoming attracted to the
ceramic by the magnetic field created
by the high voltage current flowing
through the spark plug
• Effect: Not detrimental to spark plug
operation
• Remedy: Ensure that spark plug “well”
is clean when installing new spark plugs
Car care nut has you covered never use anti-seize on Toyota spark plugs that is the correct answer
8 have same thing in my mercedes C250, spark plug loosing by every 2 or 3 thousand miles, you know why that happens ?
At 14:28, what is that hose that’s cut right above the engine hooksupposed to go? 🤔
Never put new coils on old plugs ! Spark plug need to be torq to spec. Clean plug tubes, in the box says torq. spec. Use anti seize lube to prevent a freeze plug or galling the threats.
Always replace all coils together.
Yes
You better put anti seize compound on your plug thread. The steel threads on the plug will seize to the thread on the aluminum heads & the threads will strip out next time you remove the spark plug...
I've never done it and they always come out with no problem, maybe because the engine hasn't overheated? Either way you shouldn't need to if torqued right
@@JoseVazquez-jw5yp you got lucky
Not going to NGK dual tip Irredium?
Engine oil, , , , Amsoil 100% Synthetic 5W30 is what I use in my '01 Tundra 4.7 engine.
Amsoil is the Best Motor Oil on the Market.
If you can't afford Amsoil, The Important thing is to change your engine oil regularly