Sounds nice. Just needs a general strip off, sandblast clean, some bolt replacements, a few gaskets, seals, anti-corrosion flush, repaint ... BEWDIFUL! You've got a good list to do! #1 priorities for a boat engine = trustworthiness, reliability. I reckon you'll have a good donk when finished. Idea 1: Put a stop cable up to your helm instead of that hard to reach button! Idea 2: I always resin-glass the outside on my sumps. It repairs any previous bilge water corrosion and prevents any in future ... although you're making a dry bilge! The best way to go.
Thank you for your comments. I thought it sounded good as well. There is an elecric stop button at the dash board, But I am going to extend that stop mechanism through the back of the engine box for security. I have strated a mold to glass up a tray for under the engine & gearbox and another catch tray under the stuffing box. As you say, hopefully a dry boat. At least that is the aim.
@@revivingjabiru7588 Yeah, a sump tray is a must! Oil and diesel and coolant drips into the bilge are a pain. One hint -- Don't mount it too low, not right on the keel/ribs/scuppers. Stuff will get stuck under it ... I have found!. Try to make it removeable from the front for easy cleaning. Fyi, I happen to live on a restored old (1910) carvel cabin cruiser. I did exactly the same as you -- hull right back to the boards, 3,500 new screws,, double epoxied, then built new cabin. So I completely get where you're coming from. It's my passion and my home!
Hi Phil, I have been concerned that the BMW may not have an oil filter, and more importantly a sump scavenge pump so that you may change the oil without any dropping into the bottom of the boat. I looked again just now, and saw a filter cartridge and something red which may have been a scavenge pump. I hope that I am correct in this. I really enjoy your filming of your work; keep it going!
Yes. It does have a filter, but I really have no idea about the scavenge pump. I'll look it up and let you know. Thanks for your interest. More things to think about.
Sorry for that David. My ineptitude in dealing with music licensing issues led to the channel being wiped out. I put it back up almost immediately, but all the subscribers were lost. Great to see you have found it again.
Engine sounds very healthy. This is basically a 'double' d12 but luckily these d35-2 where equipped with a heat exchanger. Would recommend to overhaul it though and flush the entire cooling system.
Yes. Complete overhaul of the cooling system is going to happen, but as I said on the video, that will have to wait until the boat is nearly ready to install the engine. Quite a long way off when I see how often I get to work on it. Thanks for your comment.
Change all the hoses from rubber to silicon. Use non slotted band hoseclips. See if the saltwater cooling side has a zinc anode fitted. Tachometer might be wired off the alternator so getting it looked at may cure that slow to read issue. To make that mostly alloy raw water cooling system last longer the best system is to run it on freshwater after it has been used. Attatch a 3 way valve to your saltwater intake and run it out of a bucket of freshwater with some dishwashing liquid mixed into it. Start and run the engine, when you see bubbles from the exhaust you know the system is mostly freshwater therefore slowing corrosion down. Also the saltwater going thru the gearbox isnt the best thing for an alloy case box so running the freshwater thru it will be a huge bonus for thst too.
I hadn't thought of silicone hoses. Any brand names come to mind? I think it does have a zinc anode and the tacho does run off the alternator. Good advice about the fresh water flush. Thanks for the advice.
Supercheap and Repco should carry silicon hoses in both straight lengths, 45 degree and 90degree bends. If not hose and fitting supply stores definately should. Normally come in blue and black but can also come in green, yellow and pink.
I buy them as 45 degree bends and they have always been marked as 45 degree. You can also buy them in a U shape which is classed as a 180 degree bend hose.
Yes. I was happy with how the engine sounds. It needs to have the cooling system cleaned and new gaskets everywhere as well as hoses. the timing cover is rusted through in one spot so that will require welded patches, then a good paint job.
@@revivingjabiru7588 yes, it does seem to need those things, but at least you’re not having to do a valve job or something like that. I’m not trying to make light of everything you have to do. Like I said I’m just happy for you it’s nothing major. I got to get caught up on the videos, I just have a hard time hearing you sometimes, lol. But thank you again for sharing, I think you’re doing an excellent job. Texas
@@roblescurbappealconcrete I'm interested if you can let me know which parts of which video are hard to hear. I'm not taking offence, as I am a bit of an amateur when it comes to making these videos. i guess you will have seen some of my admitted glaring mistakes. When you look at Episode #12, can you comment as I think I've got the sound levels correct in that one. If I'm wrong I'd like to hear about it. I hope you keep watching and enjoying. Phil
@@revivingjabiru7588 I sure will Sir. Believe me , I understand that very few people are experts at creating a perfect video. Thank you for replying. Good luck, it’s still great content.
Great music and episode, but what is that bird in so many Aussie videos that interrupts your narration and sounds like it's in its death throes ? Cheers
The Australian Crow, like the stereotypical Aussie, often sounds like it is swearing at some calamity/misfortune -- "faaark ... faaark ..." Maybe that's where Aussies got their frequent of the word!
Sounds nice. Just needs a general strip off, sandblast clean, some bolt replacements, a few gaskets, seals, anti-corrosion flush, repaint ... BEWDIFUL! You've got a good list to do!
#1 priorities for a boat engine = trustworthiness, reliability. I reckon you'll have a good donk when finished.
Idea 1: Put a stop cable up to your helm instead of that hard to reach button!
Idea 2: I always resin-glass the outside on my sumps. It repairs any previous bilge water corrosion and prevents any in future ... although you're making a dry bilge! The best way to go.
Thank you for your comments. I thought it sounded good as well. There is an elecric stop button at the dash board, But I am going to extend that stop mechanism through the back of the engine box for security. I have strated a mold to glass up a tray for under the engine & gearbox and another catch tray under the stuffing box. As you say, hopefully a dry boat. At least that is the aim.
@@revivingjabiru7588
Yeah, a sump tray is a must! Oil and diesel and coolant drips into the bilge are a pain. One hint -- Don't mount it too low, not right on the keel/ribs/scuppers. Stuff will get stuck under it ... I have found!. Try to make it removeable from the front for easy cleaning.
Fyi, I happen to live on a restored old (1910) carvel cabin cruiser. I did exactly the same as you -- hull right back to the boards, 3,500 new screws,, double epoxied, then built new cabin. So I completely get where you're coming from. It's my passion and my home!
Love the power-pam in running water! LOL
Hi Phil, I have been concerned that the BMW may not have an oil filter, and more importantly a sump scavenge pump so that you may change the oil without any dropping into the bottom of the boat. I looked again just now, and saw a filter cartridge and something red which may have been a scavenge pump. I hope that I am correct in this. I really enjoy your filming of your work; keep it going!
Yes. It does have a filter, but I really have no idea about the scavenge pump. I'll look it up and let you know. Thanks for your interest. More things to think about.
Thanks
Found it! So cool 👍🏾
Thanks Linda, Glad you found it and also happy you like it. #12 should come out in a few weeks.
Very entertaining,always exciting to watch a boat rebuild progress when in the right hands
No idea why my subscription to your channel lapsed, but good to see you back.
Sorry for that David. My ineptitude in dealing with music licensing issues led to the channel being wiped out. I put it back up almost immediately, but all the subscribers were lost. Great to see you have found it again.
@@revivingjabiru7588 Your computer skills much better than mine I would make a truly unholy mess.
Engine sounds very healthy. This is basically a 'double' d12 but luckily these d35-2 where equipped with a heat exchanger. Would recommend to overhaul it though and flush the entire cooling system.
Yes. Complete overhaul of the cooling system is going to happen, but as I said on the video, that will have to wait until the boat is nearly ready to install the engine. Quite a long way off when I see how often I get to work on it. Thanks for your comment.
Very impressed, always looking forward top the next episode!
Change all the hoses from rubber to silicon.
Use non slotted band hoseclips.
See if the saltwater cooling side has a zinc anode fitted.
Tachometer might be wired off the alternator so getting it looked at may cure that slow to read issue.
To make that mostly alloy raw water cooling system last longer the best system is to run it on freshwater after it has been used. Attatch a 3 way valve to your saltwater intake and run it out of a bucket of freshwater with some dishwashing liquid mixed into it. Start and run the engine, when you see bubbles from the exhaust you know the system is mostly freshwater therefore slowing corrosion down. Also the saltwater going thru the gearbox isnt the best thing for an alloy case box so running the freshwater thru it will be a huge bonus for thst too.
I hadn't thought of silicone hoses. Any brand names come to mind? I think it does have a zinc anode and the tacho does run off the alternator. Good advice about the fresh water flush. Thanks for the advice.
Supercheap and Repco should carry silicon hoses in both straight lengths, 45 degree and 90degree bends. If not hose and fitting supply stores definately should. Normally come in blue and black but can also come in green, yellow and pink.
@@matui6983when you say 45 degree do you mean 135? 45 would be almost a U turn.
I buy them as 45 degree bends and they have always been marked as 45 degree.
You can also buy them in a U shape which is classed as a 180 degree bend hose.
@@matui6983 thanks.
I’m excited for you, that engine sounded fairly nice to me. I hope you don’t have to do too much work on it.
Thanks for sharing.
Texas
Yes. I was happy with how the engine sounds. It needs to have the cooling system cleaned and new gaskets everywhere as well as hoses. the timing cover is rusted through in one spot so that will require welded patches, then a good paint job.
@@revivingjabiru7588 yes, it does seem to need those things, but at least you’re not having to do a valve job or something like that. I’m not trying to make light of everything you have to do. Like I said I’m just happy for you it’s nothing major. I got to get caught up on the videos, I just have a hard time hearing you sometimes, lol.
But thank you again for sharing, I think you’re doing an excellent job.
Texas
@@roblescurbappealconcrete I'm interested if you can let me know which parts of which video are hard to hear. I'm not taking offence, as I am a bit of an amateur when it comes to making these videos. i guess you will have seen some of my admitted glaring mistakes. When you look at Episode #12, can you comment as I think I've got the sound levels correct in that one. If I'm wrong I'd like to hear about it. I hope you keep watching and enjoying. Phil
@@revivingjabiru7588 I sure will Sir.
Believe me , I understand that very few people are experts at creating a perfect video.
Thank you for replying.
Good luck, it’s still great content.
Great music and episode, but what is that bird in so many Aussie videos that interrupts your narration and sounds like it's in its death throes ? Cheers
That's a crow. Black all over and very similar to a Raven. Always sounds unhappy.
@@revivingjabiru7588 Sounded more like a whingeing pom to me … cheers from the UK!
The Australian Crow, like the stereotypical Aussie, often sounds like it is swearing at some calamity/misfortune -- "faaark ... faaark ..." Maybe that's where Aussies got their frequent of the word!
Would you have electrolysis if the metal pipe is insulated from the engine by the rubber hosing? My comment is a bit late!
I think the electolysis is through the salt water to link the different metals and that is why I'm unsure.