My Focus ST broke at the track...
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- If you haven't already, make sure to go watch the video covering the last track day at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway to get up to speed on the problems I encountered with the ST after a full day of track time. The car performed very well but not without problems unfortunately. In this video, I go into what happened to my car at the track and what caused it to happen. This was one of may lessons this car has taught me and I hope I can give insight to anyone trying to accomplish the same thing with their car. Thank you so much for watching and continuing to support what I do!
IG:
@valleycrewracing
@tbaiallday
You have the best attitude whenever anything breaks!
Yooooo I got a 2016 ST here in the Valley too lol but for your issue, there's a video by Tuned by Nishan on here that talks about driveability issues and stage 3 cams and how it effects the pcm. Check it out 👍🏽
Central Valley?
Damn man that idle sounds rough. I hope you get it figured out soon. I can't wait for another update.
Also got my Stock turbo E30 tune from Alan at edge a couple weeks ago and I'm happy with it. Nothing near your setup, but I gotta agree with some of the other guys here. He's got a really good understanding of the vehicle
Race cars race cars 🏎 buy em. Break em. Fix em. That pipe shredded the nar
Nice video man, glad your car held up at the track with the busted hose. Hopefully the new hose setup holds nice and tight. If that’s your lady in the car riding with you and holding the camera and recording you, that’s dope man mad respect to your lady.🤘🏼👊🏼🤝
Yup! She’s a keeper for sure. Love her to death.
Change your tuner edge autosports is the way man everyone loves his tune for BT and the ST sounds amazing man keep the videos coming
I need someone who’s very experienced with big cam tuning with these cars.
Speed performance out in linden, nj are really good at tuning stage 3 cams, they have 2.3 Stroker kit along with a 2.5 stroker for the ecoboost engines. Nishan tunes all their cars he’s well versed in the ecoboost platform along with the Mazda speed since they use the same engine
@@tbr.performance edge autosport is the way to go 💯
Allen from edge auto sport makes good tunes he makes them to keep he car safe unless you tell him not to lol and they have there in house focus at 600+ hp
@@tbr.performance trust me he is he even has a UA-cam channel or email them
i run a vented oil cap and it really helps prevent oil in the system.
You definitely need to have Alan from edge autosports tune this car! He’s the best for the focus platform. That tune your running is the issue.
Hang on, repairs/rebuilds are just normal things on modded cars 😌 Now just a thing: I see you are passionate about weight saving (awesome!) so cut all the screws that are too long. Exemple: there are four T-bolts left and right of the IC that have 1.5”protruding screws. Use a disk saw and cut them. Then rinse and repeat for every screw and bolts on the car. Anything that protrudes after being torqued, you shave. Save the bits and weight them 😏 This is just dead weight, and easy to remove. For anything that don’t need much strength (say the fasteners for the rear spoiler, or the front bumper etc,) consider aluminum or nylon screws. The rpm fluctuation is the ignition-based torque control. I don’t know why it goes crazy. Log the ignition timing “Ign Timing Cyl1”, the AFR, and “(SD) Total Fuel Trim(%)”. Repro the problem and see if your ignition oscillate, see if your AFR makes sense, and see if you see fuel corrections different from zero. If the fuel trims are at zero the engine is running in open loop, and that’s not normal. I don’t know why, but I’m seeing this on my RS right now. Cams, big throttle. I suspect the closed-loop fuel correction creep up and go beyond some bound, the PCM sees that as an error and disables closed-loop fueling. Cycling the ignition cures the issue until next time.
Nishan made a video on stage 3 cams that someone referenced in the comments and it all makes sense after hearing what he had to say. All of my parameters are solid and nothing looks out of place. That’s why I was so confused.
@@tbr.performance Sure. Log the ignition timing, still. The jagging thing is the spark timing going down some 15° and back up, about five times per second, only happens with a hair of throttle. In the meantime I think found out why mine was unexpectedly getting out of closed-loop fueling. That was unrelated so that did not cure the jaggies, just reduced them.
@@tbr.performance I’m still sorting this out on my car. I think the PCM believes the engine should be idling and tries to stabilize that idle through the ignition point. The timing really swings rapidly over 15-20° several times per second and that creates the same jaggies as I saw in your video. It only occurs when cruising around 2K-3K with a hair of throttle. Opening the throttle a hair more stops the phenomenon. I’ll let you know when I find a solution. At first I thought this was linked to the other problem I had (dropping off of closed loop fueling) but that was entirely unrelated.
@@axelriet
Yeah, when you open the throttle more it usually goes away but it’s very loud😅
you should add on your story if you figure anything out and have any updates
Check your manifold gaskets and anything to do with the PCV system
Very well could just be the tune and your cams. If he put a safer conservative tune for the track it’s running rich at idle and lower throttle and leaner on the top end
pretty sure it's just your track tune. if its tuned for track use it doesn't want to be at low rpm's and low speed, you usually want to be high rpm's making power. if you are running cobb can you just get a map made for street use, that isn't as aggressive and pouring fuel like its dehydrated lol
We have completely different applications but in my Fost I have 2 catch-cans and with them mounted lower they collect more oil. I don’t know what your setup is like but that is something I’ve noticed. I have one by my battery that never sees anything and one mounted down low that gets pretty full
Man those OEM hoses are so flimsy, I see this issue quite often. You could just drill a tap on the turbo compressor housing.
You might have to run a bigger throttle body, I know the stock is a 57mm and the next one up is a 63mm off the ecoboost mustang, panda Motorsports has it for 275,
Upgraded throttle body is not required, stock throttle body can handle up to 600whp, even with an upgraded throttle body the car shows no gains, throttle response Is a little more on point but not really worth the money for what you get.
no power difference, smaller diameter so the turbo response is slightly delayed but more possible flow
Check you TPS sensor or CAM sensors, but listening to the engine it defenetly sounds like your TPS, good luck bro.
Nishan from sp63 explains what I’m experiencing the best. His video about stage 3 cams really cleared things up for me.
Hey I need help with an issue I’m having with my ST it won’t go into gear when the car is on off it does but once I turn it on and it’s in gear it makes a weird noise when it’s on I have a stage 4 clutch installed from masters clutch competition clutch the 6 pluck one with a light flywheel and also I have the carbon synchronizers installed on them too
Was your idle issue ever resolved? I know mine is the vacuum purge valve
did you ever get that RPM fluttering issue fixed? I'm having identical problems.
When are you hitting the track again?
Sounds like the tps
Dude my pipe did the same thing! I just jb welded it lmao
Have you change the throttle to bigger size and also change the idle sensor or put air intake
the flutter sounds great, how does that work with the hks? Car is definitely goals, I'm hoping to have mine built with cams within the next few years
The guardian angel lets me adjust the bov responsiveness allowing the car to flutter a lot more.
Did you check your Evap line? Mine was shot and needed replacing. Mine would studier and die at a stop. It wasn’t all the time thou. Just tossing out ideas. Mine’s “stage 2” with a pro-tune idk of that matters at all.
Yeah I already replaced that a long time ago. I’m not having any issues with a check engine light either.
Troy have you been at it against a Honda Type R, would love to know the outcome. Thx!
It’s Trey lol and I don’t street race so you’re asking the wrong guy.
New charge pipes....... for Ryan's mom???
😂
You mentioned in this video that you had a head crack...do you have a video describing what happened?
Reason I ask is because I think my head cracked on my focus. The head is at the machine shop right now getting pressure tested to confirm.
@@slohachi6433
ua-cam.com/video/keeJAMWEDTg/v-deo.html
That’s the link to part 1 of the 2 part series of building the head after it cracked.
@@tbr.performance Thanks i'll check it out! I got bad news from the machine shop today. My cylinder head had a crack in the exhaust port....ugh....I had to order a new head from Galpin Ford.
Also, MAJOR thanks for going over how to time the engine. It was in one of your videos. LOL I messed up the timing cover trying to remove the crank bolt. But thanks to the video, I feel a lot more confident timing the engine.
@@slohachi6433
No problem!!
was about to install wmi on my oem cold side charge pipe, until i saw this hmmm
Perhaps what power range are you at?
Roughly 420-430 whp
What brand charge pipes are those? Just curious.
Mishimoto charge pipe kit
I just caught that in the video lol kinda jumped the gun on that one. Lmao 🙃
oh come on! you replaced all that other stuff and had rubber charge pipe elbows?! expected more considering how picky you were about head studs.
😅
Kinda sounded like my 2.0 NA mk3 focus with the maf sensor unplugged lol
Did u really screw metal into a rubber hose? 🙄
It’s designed to do that. I had it like that for years soooooo🤷🏽♂️
atp supplies it to be put through a silicone hose which is very reinforced. you put a hole through with a drill, then pop the nipple through. it gives the computer a boost reference. had mine in silicone for four years so far
@@tbr.performance i mean I see its designed that way but it's still a little weird
Maybe it’s corroded or something
It sounds horrible ? Is it suppose to sound so ricey?
How does it sound ricey
have you traced all of your vaccine lines?
Yes, I did multiple leak tests and it’s all good!