Are you having problems with installing the Ikea end panels? If there's anything specific you find difficult and would like to have a quick tip, comment below, and I will do my best to help.
Oh, thank goodness for the offer! Please, please help. I have watched almost all of your videos. Thank you, I have learned a lot. I’m struggling to finish my kitchen because of the end panels. I don’t understand the 5/8 inch overhang. The doors/drawers are 3/4 inch, plus 1/8 inch with the little plastic bumpers (7/8 inch total). It just doesn’t seem right to me that the panel would be recessed and not flush with either the cabinet or the door. Is it designed that way?
Hey Ronny. I'm happy that you find my videos helpful. I'm not sure what Ikea's designer are thinking 🤔 but my best bet for the "non-flush" option is this. If you strive for the panel edge and the door being flush, you'll fail in most cases unless you decide to live with certain other issues. Quite often you need to adjust the door hinges a bit out from the cabinet box in order to bring the opposite corner of the door towards the cabinet and that will be visible instantly if the door was flush with the panel. Any discrepancy from flush is much more obvious to the eye than a discretionary from 5/8". I hope that helped.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you, for the reply - the explanation helps. I know I’m making this harder than it needs to be, but like you, I like things uniform and done right. I have a couple more questions, if don’t mind - it would really help me out. If I have a tall cabinet next to a wall with base and wall cabinets on the other side, I install the end panel next to the cabinets with the 5/8 inch overhang, but the filler piece on the wall side is installed flush with the cabinet frame?? Also, what saw blade are you using to cut the panels?
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Panels+filler. Some folks double up the filler so the outer on protrudes from the cabinet box. It requires an uncut edge naturally. Blade. I cut on my 10" table saw with a 60 teeth blade.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you again. You’ve been quite helpful. So as an expert who’s installed hundreds of IKEA kitchens- I guess the real question is - is anyone, but me, going to notice the discrepancy?
Most of my panels I am only bringing down to the toe kick, but I have two that I am putting all the way to the floor. Do I want to put the panel down to the subfloor, or just sitting on top of the floating LVP?
Hello Lars, question, when installing a tall panel between the refrigerator all the way to the cabinet close to the ceiling, the are different depth of cabinets, the lower cabinet is 24” deep, the upper one is around 16”. Do I put a single rectangular panel 24” deep all the way to the top? Or should I go 24” and the transition to 16” to the top? Thanks again for your advices.
@@kitchensbyrannesWhat if a fridge cabinet is a bit too high ... i have it 4 cm higher than a full panel length, is it ok to put start a panel from a leg or screw it to the cabinet so it hangs 8cm from the floor? Or some similar solution?
Hey @kitchensbyrannes do you always let the side panels extend a few centimeters below the base of the upper cabinets when installing under-cabinet lights? I've seen a video where they recommend doing this in order to hide the under-cabinet lights from the side, but the IKEA instructions say nothing about it. Wondering if it's a matter of preference or not. Thanks!
No, I don't. The length (height) of the wall cabinet panels depends on whether there's a valence (deco strip) under the cabinet or not. I let it go below either the cabinet or valence with just a bit.
@@kitchensbyrannes OK so I am definitely installing the mittled under-cabinet lights (thanks to your good advice!) but wasn't planning on covering them with a deco strip and was going to have the height of the side panel match the height of the metod cabinet. This means the light strips will be more visible if one looks under the cabinets (who does that anyway?). Is that weird or is it a common choice from your experience? Thanks for your feedback!
You're welcome. How you describe it, is how I do it. In your case, I would cut the panel 1-2 mm longer the the height of the wall cabinet and mount it flush at the top and let it protrude the 1-2mm at the bottom. Sometimes the cabinets vary a bit in height (true story) and I'm not measuring all of them, so cutting the panel a tiny bit longer is wise.
No, I don't do that. I let the panel protrude the cabinet box with 9/16 to 5/8" (14-16 mm). Trying to make it flush with the door is difficult as you may have to adjust the door hinge in or out, and consequently ruining the flush look.
Hello Lars, thanks again for you help. Question, when you have a row of top cabinets and the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling varies for one end of the wall to the other end in about 0.5” and 1.0”, how do you cover that gap? Is there a need to cover the gap? Thanks in advance
Easy answer. No. Never have. Never will. If you have an uneven gap, starting to fill it up will only enhance the difference. I think the shadow is doing a marvelous job even out the gap.
IKEA would like you to believe that putting together a kitchen is like playing with Lego blocks,.... here's a tip: It's Not. But with patience, and good advice from Mr. Rannes, my wife and I have achieved beautiful results, and we have all the features we want and need from our kitchen, pantry and laundry room. Thank you.
All these videos are so helpful Thank you so much
My pleasure. I'm happy that you find the videos useful.
Are you having problems with installing the Ikea end panels?
If there's anything specific you find difficult and would like to have a quick tip, comment below, and I will do my best to help.
Oh, thank goodness for the offer! Please, please help. I have watched almost all of your videos. Thank you, I have learned a lot. I’m struggling to finish my kitchen because of the end panels. I don’t understand the 5/8 inch overhang. The doors/drawers are 3/4 inch, plus 1/8 inch with the little plastic bumpers (7/8 inch total). It just doesn’t seem right to me that the panel would be recessed and not flush with either the cabinet or the door. Is it designed that way?
Hey Ronny.
I'm happy that you find my videos helpful.
I'm not sure what Ikea's designer are thinking 🤔 but my best bet for the "non-flush" option is this.
If you strive for the panel edge and the door being flush, you'll fail in most cases unless you decide to live with certain other issues.
Quite often you need to adjust the door hinges a bit out from the cabinet box in order to bring the opposite corner of the door towards the cabinet and that will be visible instantly if the door was flush with the panel.
Any discrepancy from flush is much more obvious to the eye than a discretionary from 5/8".
I hope that helped.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you, for the reply - the explanation helps. I know I’m making this harder than it needs to be, but like you, I like things uniform and done right. I have a couple more questions, if don’t mind - it would really help me out. If I have a tall cabinet next to a wall with base and wall cabinets on the other side, I install the end panel next to the cabinets with the 5/8 inch overhang, but the filler piece on the wall side is installed flush with the cabinet frame?? Also, what saw blade are you using to cut the panels?
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
Panels+filler. Some folks double up the filler so the outer on protrudes from the cabinet box. It requires an uncut edge naturally.
Blade. I cut on my 10" table saw with a 60 teeth blade.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you again. You’ve been quite helpful. So as an expert who’s installed hundreds of IKEA kitchens- I guess the real question is - is anyone, but me, going to notice the discrepancy?
If you go with 5/8 (+ -) nobody will see the discrepancy.
If you aim at flush, everyone will notice 🤣
Most of my panels I am only bringing down to the toe kick, but I have two that I am putting all the way to the floor.
Do I want to put the panel down to the subfloor, or just sitting on top of the floating LVP?
On top of the LVP. And cut at the top to avoid penetration of moisture.
I knew the part about cut side up…. I watched a good video about that! 👍
Hello Lars, question, when installing a tall panel between the refrigerator all the way to the cabinet close to the ceiling, the are different depth of cabinets, the lower cabinet is 24” deep, the upper one is around 16”. Do I put a single rectangular panel 24” deep all the way to the top? Or should I go 24” and the transition to 16” to the top?
Thanks again for your advices.
You're welcome.
You want to have the full depth, i.e. 24 5/8" all the way to the top of the fridge cabinet, and starting at the floor.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks!
@@kitchensbyrannesWhat if a fridge cabinet is a bit too high ... i have it 4 cm higher than a full panel length, is it ok to put start a panel from a leg or screw it to the cabinet so it hangs 8cm from the floor? Or some similar solution?
@@illustratedquotes Yes, you can have it flush with the bottom of the adjacent base cabinet.
Hey @kitchensbyrannes do you always let the side panels extend a few centimeters below the base of the upper cabinets when installing under-cabinet lights? I've seen a video where they recommend doing this in order to hide the under-cabinet lights from the side, but the IKEA instructions say nothing about it. Wondering if it's a matter of preference or not. Thanks!
No, I don't.
The length (height) of the wall cabinet panels depends on whether there's a valence (deco strip) under the cabinet or not.
I let it go below either the cabinet or valence with just a bit.
@@kitchensbyrannes OK so I am definitely installing the mittled under-cabinet lights (thanks to your good advice!) but wasn't planning on covering them with a deco strip and was going to have the height of the side panel match the height of the metod cabinet. This means the light strips will be more visible if one looks under the cabinets (who does that anyway?). Is that weird or is it a common choice from your experience? Thanks for your feedback!
You're welcome.
How you describe it, is how I do it.
In your case, I would cut the panel 1-2 mm longer the the height of the wall cabinet and mount it flush at the top and let it protrude the 1-2mm at the bottom.
Sometimes the cabinets vary a bit in height (true story) and I'm not measuring all of them, so cutting the panel a tiny bit longer is wise.
So when you install end panels you need to account for the door thickness as well?
No, I don't do that. I let the panel protrude the cabinet box with 9/16 to 5/8" (14-16 mm).
Trying to make it flush with the door is difficult as you may have to adjust the door hinge in or out, and consequently ruining the flush look.
Hello Lars, thanks again for you help. Question, when you have a row of top cabinets and the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling varies for one end of the wall to the other end in about 0.5” and 1.0”, how do you cover that gap? Is there a need to cover the gap?
Thanks in advance
Easy answer.
No. Never have. Never will.
If you have an uneven gap, starting to fill it up will only enhance the difference.
I think the shadow is doing a marvelous job even out the gap.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for helping out with your response.
You're very welcome.
Nooice!
Thanks.
IKEA would like you to believe that putting together a kitchen is like playing with Lego blocks,.... here's a tip: It's Not. But with patience, and good advice from Mr. Rannes, my wife and I have achieved beautiful results, and we have all the features we want and need from our kitchen, pantry and laundry room. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words, Paul. I am happy to hear that your installation went well.