A few things missing 1) I'd recommend a dust mask, especially if working with Forge World resin 2) Use a hand hobby drill, far more control 3) A centre punch tool will save you blades and less likely to cause injury 4) I use two different coloured fridge/notice board magnets and label one 'body' and the other 'attachment', now I always know the polarity of all my minis without having to find one to check 5) Don't overdo the magnet type if it's not needed - ie. N52s on a small part is not necessary and more effort is needed to separate 6) You can use drill bits that leave a flat bottom finish so the magnet is flush in the hole (forstner, spot weld or mill cutter bits for example) - apart from all that, not a bad guide.
I feel like I don't know what you mean about fridge/notice board magnet but the rest of your notes seem really helpful. What magnet do you use specifically?
@@darthdeboplaysi think he means he has two bigger magnets, opposite polarity. Writes on one “body” writesnon the other “ arms” and whatever side sticks to that magnet makes u put in that part.
Just my 2 cents. I think a manual Handdrill is way enough and even a bit more safe for Drilling minis. Anyway great Video! Just fixed one of my brutes of course was diffrent polarised than the rest...
Using a power drill on my minis would have me in a constant panic attack. One small “opps” could mean hours of potential repair work need, if it possible to repair. I have a small hand drill (jeweler’s drill) that I will be using to set my magnet points on my newly delivered AOS Dracothian Guard x6 models. Intend to have Storm Glaive as primary weapon (Fulminators) and have the lightning hammers (Concussors) and Thunderaxes (Desolators) as situational back ups depending on my opponent’s forces. No need to leave those awesome weapon options in my bits tin. @2+tough, this will be my first ever attempt at magnetizing any of my minis. 🙏🏼🤞🏼🖖🏼. Sigmar be with me and guide my drill hand. Lol. ⚡️
I hear you can reverse the polarity of a magnet by dipping a needle in boiling chicken broth, dancing counter-clockwise while balancing a pineapple on your head and dropping your pants and firing a rocket.
Yesterday I magnetized 2 different heads back to back the wrong way. I drilled the holes so perfectly it would be hard to pull them out if they WERENT glued. But they are. Saving them for another model I guess! lol
Sigh, quickly losing hope for the western educational system here since it is not even mentioned so like after all this, what do we do afterwards with the chicken broth? Do we just throw it away (isn't that wasteful)?
This greatly helped me magnetize my havocs and khorne berzerkers. Thanks for making this clear and concise.Two thumbs up! Small tip for people who do not have marked magnets: Mark them with red nail polish and wait until it is really dry before putting the magnets back together into a rod. Otherwise they will stick together like glue and take a lot of force to separate again.
Thanks man. I’m out here a new player trying to get my tyranids going. Got a leviathan set and have most of them painted looking nice but I need some boss monsters and I’m just realizing I need to learn this magnet skill to assemble the tyrant and others and I’m LOST. Thanks so much.
@2+Tough. Using a power drill on my minis would have me in a constant panic attack. One small “opps” could mean hours of potential repair work need, if it possible to repair. I have a small hand drill (jeweler’s drill) that I will be using to set my magnet points on my newly delivered AOS Dracothian Guard x6 models. Intend to have Storm Glaive as primary weapon (Fulminators) and have the lightning hammers (Concussors) and Thunderaxes (Desolators) as situational back ups depending on my opponent’s forces. No need to leave those awesome weapon options in my bits tin. this will be my first ever attempt at magnetizing any of my minis. 🙏🏼🤞🏼🖖🏼. Sigmar be with me and guide my drill hand. Lol. ⚡️. As with all your AOS content, thanks for all your hard work and care for the hobby. Your lore videos have really helped to fully immerse me in the game. Hammers of Sigmar forever⚡️⚡️
heck, magnetization is why i got into the hobby in the first place. few weeks ago actually, working on my first dread now, goddamn love magnets, sizes are def hard at first though
Thats fair. I find it comes down to where you need the magnet. On a very small model (like a Free People handgunner) if it's the shoulder, thats fine, if its the wrist... no way lol
I watched this video a while ago and spent the last month looking for it so I could get the name of the seller of the pre-marked magnets. I'm glad I found it, too: you do a much better job explaining what to do and why than other videos on magnetization that I've watched.
My friend, you have balls of steel for using a full power drill at full speed before you line it up against the model. I tend to use small hand pin vices or more recently I started using the wow stick (mostly for pinning due to bit sizes) which is lovely because it is high power but low speed so I feel like it has tremendous controllability.
Interesting this, I'm a WH40K (and AoS) player and I bought a bunch of magnets because with all the possible weapons config options in WH40K (which changes in usefulness once every 3-4 years or so) it's a good thing to keep your weapons configs changeable and modular. This I'm now doing for the smaller single units not just the large Imperial Knights which cost around £80 each. One thing is I bought a tonne of N42 strength magnets (I bought 1000s) and they turned out to be very expensive but strangely the N52 magnets which are much stronger were cheaper. I have enough for now. Make sure you get the polarity right before you glue them in.. The tiny magnets in the palm of the hands are the hardest to do I reckon. And yes I do have Tzangors which are to be used in both AoS and WH40K.
This was really helpful! I started magnetizing my Rubric Marines (probably not a good idea to start with due to some joints being in the wrists and the little hands holding the guns), followed with some Ork Loota/Burnas, and now I magnetized my Tyranid Warriors. Gonna move on to my Deathwatch, but I need more magnets, ahaha. Thanks!
Awesome video thank you. Really helpful since I'm just starting to work with orcs. I am a bit nervous drilling considering how thin some of their arms are.
Pro tip I learned drilling concrete that would apply here measure a magnet on your drill bit and mark the drill bit and that will be your depth marker and makes it easier to know when to stop
Great Video and I love the marked magnets ideal but I am too wimpy to use a power drill. I think the hand jeweller drill is safer, IMHO. Was there a reason you took the guide down? Keep up the fine work and spread the word. Thank you.
I have a growing army of Warhammer 40k units, and I'm reaching the point where I'm confident in starting to magnetize. Where can I find more information re: ordering some of the mag savvy magnets you show in your video? As well, what diameter drill bit and magnet are you using in this video?
You should be using a smaller drill bit, what is that quarter or eighth inch? Human sized models like Empire and Imperial Guard need like a 1/16 bit man.
yup. That's why I avoided talking about specific drill bit sizes. This one worked great for these nobs, magnetized the whole set. But magnets arent one size fits all, of course you'd need a smaller on for smaller models. for a guardsmen, I reckon you are right, I'd start with a 1/16
have you every looked at using metal paint or metal tape? I think its krylon, that makes a spray can with metal based paint and i found a couple tapes that have metal flake in it to use with magnets.
In machining parlance what you are referring to as a priming hole is actually called a pilot hole. Just thought you might want to be as accurate as possible.
Well it's not as easy with every modell. sometimes the magnets need to be placed perfectly on the arm, take crypt horrors/flayers for example. Would like to know if someone has advices how to magnetize them.
You're right, Sascha. But when learning any new technique you tend to start with common examples rather then corner-case ones. I have a local FEC player, let me see if he needs something magnetized and I'll do another tutorial!
I am very much interested in Skaven due to how fun they seem narratively, but their model base is very split at the moment due to the keywords. Some of the models are also not all that available, those which are seem to all have square bases and if I look at the Acolytes I would want for clan Skyre, they cost a fortune (9,10€ per model!). I am thinking either Skyre on its own or Verminus with some Eshin flanking and character hunting sprinkled in are attractive to me aesthetically. The later also might just take Masterclan too since they are already reduced to 'Skaven' or 'Chaos' anyways. Not really into Pestilens unfortunately. Do you think there is a way to make it work? Is it worth it despite how outdated they seem? Any advice on how to go about it?
I so wish I had even thought about this before I glued my Frigate and 2 Gunhaulers. Oh well, when I make my Arachnaroks I'll see if I can magnetize the platforms so I can switch them out
Thanks for a great video. Just ordered a stack of magnets, to start magnetizing new minis. One question about painting the minis afterwards. Do you paint each part separately or on the mini and remove them afterwards?
I very much appreciate you making this tutorial. It is useful and clear. I do however have 1 gripe. I hear you say in for example; your Start Collecting reviews, that you recommend we build X option of Y units. I fully get that the models are useful however I personally don't believe in the "what you see is what you get" mentality. If a person wishes to build mini's with spears but has the option for swords, I think some leeway is appropriate when making an army list and not be confined by your modelling choices. (Not talking about proxies, just selected weapon option for example) just hope you can support that point aswell as believing to be rigid in your choices scares off a lot of new players and leads to unwanted double purchases for example.
I do get your point, personally I don’t agree. If you have unit with spears I don’t think you should say it actually has swords. This has always been an aesthetic hobby, having the correct look for the weapons is a big part of that. But hey, if your opponent is fine with it then no worries!
Hey Mitchelltron, When I make suggestions to new players in my Start Collecting reviews, it's not a modelling suggestion: New folks can easily be overwhelmed by weapon options and modelling. I make suggestions based on what I think will be the most fun in the long run. But truthfully, if someone is truly split on how to model something, I suggest doing half and half (half spears, half swords for example) then make it clear to your opponent what they are this game. However, as a personal standard I like "what you see is what you get". I find that it makes games easier (your opponent knows exactly what every unit is/does). In addition it allows for a more fluid and immersive experience when modeled with a theme. These are all personal opinions, and I'd never refuse to play a game or poke fun at an opponent for them. If your opponent agrees to modelling whatever, who cares what I say? ;)
I agree. All my armies look pretty amazing if I say so myself. I take time to build them, and take pride in their appearance. When I play you know these models have ion guns, and these have flamers, etc... It’s annoying to me when I play somebody with an unpainted, partially constructed army and get the standard “these guys all have rocket launchers. Here guys have bolters, but I’m running them as meltas. This is a Rhino, but it’s actually a Predator. Also, remember it has 5 Storm Bolters and 2 Las Cannons. This is a regular guy, but he’s a Chaplain. This is a rock, but I’m running it as a Venerable Dreadnought with twin power claws. This is a...etc, etc. Okay, got it? Let’s play!”
i am about to get an Archaon the Everchosen, i wanna magnetize his wings, on the size guide, would the 1/8" x 1/16" work best for that? Edit: does the magnetization master set on the store come with 1/8" x 1/16" magnets?
You can often find it called a rotary tool, and be sure to check which sizes of bits it works for. Cheaper ones cannot take smaller drill bits. You can always go for a hand drill for tiny ones :)
Still getting a "ERR_INVALID_RESPONSE" from the link in the mailchimp campaign. Direct url links from inside wp-content uploads should work, so I dunno what's up.
Like the video. But boy does this just keep one from getting into it. Buying a set, then buying some paint, brushes, glue ect. oh wait not enough you need magnets as well....
Can we get a Part 2 advanced class? What about when those two magnets have to touch 100 percent perfectly or else it just wont jibe at all. For example: Arbites. most dont have flat areas on the bottom of the arm with a flat area on the body. The area of connection for the two pieces are staggered or inclined in such a way. Sometimes its as if the bits were molded intentionally to discourage magnetization. I know its not the case, but when these models come out hard as hell to magnitize, you know GW just considers it an extra perk and laugh their way to the bank. I need as much advice with advanced magnetization as possible and doesnt seem like much advice on advanced is to be found in any ones videos. Who will be the first? How about magnetizing the new Cadian field ordinance batteries? Ive seen a few solutions to that one but if you go in thinking its as easy as two holes, connect point a and b then prepare to be gravely discouraged. Id like to see you handle some of the harder stuff like that. Reason being, I like your technique and would like to know how youd handle some of the harder problems beyond the simple. Some things involve jerry rigging I may not have even though of! May not even think of unless I see how someone else handles these kinds of problems. Thats the kind of magnet videos we need next.
A few things missing 1) I'd recommend a dust mask, especially if working with Forge World resin 2) Use a hand hobby drill, far more control 3) A centre punch tool will save you blades and less likely to cause injury 4) I use two different coloured fridge/notice board magnets and label one 'body' and the other 'attachment', now I always know the polarity of all my minis without having to find one to check 5) Don't overdo the magnet type if it's not needed - ie. N52s on a small part is not necessary and more effort is needed to separate 6) You can use drill bits that leave a flat bottom finish so the magnet is flush in the hole (forstner, spot weld or mill cutter bits for example) - apart from all that, not a bad guide.
7) You can use a strip of tape on your drill bit to mark the desired depth and prevent over-drilling.
I feel like I don't know what you mean about fridge/notice board magnet but the rest of your notes seem really helpful. What magnet do you use specifically?
lol, i'm glad i looked in comments i was gonna ask if i could use a hand drill :P
If you are magnetizing 10-20 minis, hand drills take way too long in ny experience.
@@darthdeboplaysi think he means he has two bigger magnets, opposite polarity. Writes on one “body” writesnon the other “ arms” and whatever side sticks to that magnet makes u put in that part.
So wait. Where's the pdf and the link for these magnets?
Just my 2 cents. I think a manual Handdrill is way enough and even a bit more safe for Drilling minis.
Anyway great Video! Just fixed one of my brutes of course was diffrent polarised than the rest...
I was freaking out watching him hold the arm and bringing the drill to it...
yeah definitely, the plastic is soft enough, no need to go full power on it
Using a power drill on my minis would have me in a constant panic attack. One small “opps” could mean hours of potential repair work need, if it possible to repair. I have a small hand drill (jeweler’s drill) that I will be using to set my magnet points on my newly delivered AOS Dracothian Guard x6 models. Intend to have Storm Glaive as primary weapon (Fulminators) and have the lightning hammers (Concussors) and Thunderaxes (Desolators) as situational back ups depending on my opponent’s forces. No need to leave those awesome weapon options in my bits tin. @2+tough, this will be my first ever attempt at magnetizing any of my minis. 🙏🏼🤞🏼🖖🏼. Sigmar be with me and guide my drill hand. Lol. ⚡️
Man, you just helped me build my models to make them poseable for stop motion movies i am working on. Thx alot Doug :-). This was very helpful.
I hear you can reverse the polarity of a magnet by dipping a needle in boiling chicken broth, dancing counter-clockwise while balancing a pineapple on your head and dropping your pants and firing a rocket.
Yesterday I magnetized 2 different heads back to back the wrong way. I drilled the holes so perfectly it would be hard to pull them out if they WERENT glued. But they are. Saving them for another model I guess! lol
100% true 👍
@@Illiadofmalorne pry that sucker out!
Great tip, but it should be clarified that if you're in the southern hemisphere you need to dance clockwise for this to work.
Sigh, quickly losing hope for the western educational system here since it is not even mentioned so like after all this, what do we do afterwards with the chicken broth? Do we just throw it away (isn't that wasteful)?
This greatly helped me magnetize my havocs and khorne berzerkers. Thanks for making this clear and concise.Two thumbs up!
Small tip for people who do not have marked magnets: Mark them with red nail polish and wait until it is really dry before putting the magnets back together into a rod. Otherwise they will stick together like glue and take a lot of force to separate again.
You can use a push pin to start that pilot hole if you don't want to risk the hobby knife, or just don't have a spare old one you want to wreck.
Thanks man. I’m out here a new player trying to get my tyranids going. Got a leviathan set and have most of them painted looking nice but I need some boss monsters and I’m just realizing I need to learn this magnet skill to assemble the tyrant and others and I’m LOST. Thanks so much.
@2+Tough. Using a power drill on my minis would have me in a constant panic attack. One small “opps” could mean hours of potential repair work need, if it possible to repair. I have a small hand drill (jeweler’s drill) that I will be using to set my magnet points on my newly delivered AOS Dracothian Guard x6 models. Intend to have Storm Glaive as primary weapon (Fulminators) and have the lightning hammers (Concussors) and Thunderaxes (Desolators) as situational back ups depending on my opponent’s forces. No need to leave those awesome weapon options in my bits tin. this will be my first ever attempt at magnetizing any of my minis. 🙏🏼🤞🏼🖖🏼. Sigmar be with me and guide my drill hand. Lol. ⚡️. As with all your AOS content, thanks for all your hard work and care for the hobby. Your lore videos have really helped to fully immerse me in the game. Hammers of Sigmar forever⚡️⚡️
heck, magnetization is why i got into the hobby in the first place. few weeks ago actually, working on my first dread now, goddamn love magnets, sizes are def hard at first though
Yep this is very important.
Definitely a really helpful video although I tend to avoid magnetizing small infantry models because of how tricky mounting the magnet gets
Thats fair. I find it comes down to where you need the magnet. On a very small model (like a Free People handgunner) if it's the shoulder, thats fine, if its the wrist... no way lol
What happened to the size guide!
Actually really liked the music. Very chill
I watched this video a while ago and spent the last month looking for it so I could get the name of the seller of the pre-marked magnets. I'm glad I found it, too: you do a much better job explaining what to do and why than other videos on magnetization that I've watched.
Never mind, looks like magsavvy is no longer around.
My friend, you have balls of steel for using a full power drill at full speed before you line it up against the model. I tend to use small hand pin vices or more recently I started using the wow stick (mostly for pinning due to bit sizes) which is lovely because it is high power but low speed so I feel like it has tremendous controllability.
What sizes of magnets do you recommend for small footsoldier units, and bigger ones like Riptides and the like
This is the music from the faust's painting clinic channel . Love it :)
Never saw that channel, sub'd right away!
2+Tough ah man you'll love it.check out his dark elves. Good job on everything you do ;)
Interesting this, I'm a WH40K (and AoS) player and I bought a bunch of magnets because with all the possible weapons config options in WH40K (which changes in usefulness once every 3-4 years or so) it's a good thing to keep your weapons configs changeable and modular. This I'm now doing for the smaller single units not just the large Imperial Knights which cost around £80 each. One thing is I bought a tonne of N42 strength magnets (I bought 1000s) and they turned out to be very expensive but strangely the N52 magnets which are much stronger were cheaper. I have enough for now. Make sure you get the polarity right before you glue them in.. The tiny magnets in the palm of the hands are the hardest to do I reckon. And yes I do have Tzangors which are to be used in both AoS and WH40K.
Lol more like every 3-4 months now in current meta
Hello, Thanks for the tutorial. im about to do this myself, what size magnet where you using on the nobz? i didnt find the pdf.
an iron or steel bb in weapon + magnet in figure helps you not mess up half your deff dredd attachments first
save on magnets too! heat also decent way to installing magnets and bbs
I want labeled magnets. I tried searching up those magnets but they don't exist anymore. Any other alternatives?
This was really helpful! I started magnetizing my Rubric Marines (probably not a good idea to start with due to some joints being in the wrists and the little hands holding the guns), followed with some Ork Loota/Burnas, and now I magnetized my Tyranid Warriors. Gonna move on to my Deathwatch, but I need more magnets, ahaha. Thanks!
Is there a new link to where to buy those marked magnets? The link provided no longer works :(
Awesome video thank you. Really helpful since I'm just starting to work with orcs. I am a bit nervous drilling considering how thin some of their arms are.
Pro tip I learned drilling concrete that would apply here measure a magnet on your drill bit and mark the drill bit and that will be your depth marker and makes it easier to know when to stop
Great Video and I love the marked magnets ideal but I am too wimpy to use a power drill. I think the hand jeweller drill is safer, IMHO. Was there a reason you took the guide down? Keep up the fine work and spread the word. Thank you.
I have a growing army of Warhammer 40k units, and I'm reaching the point where I'm confident in starting to magnetize. Where can I find more information re: ordering some of the mag savvy magnets you show in your video? As well, what diameter drill bit and magnet are you using in this video?
it cant be bigger than 3mm. prolly less than that . could be 1.5mm or so
You should be using a smaller drill bit, what is that quarter or eighth inch? Human sized models like Empire and Imperial Guard need like a 1/16 bit man.
yup. That's why I avoided talking about specific drill bit sizes. This one worked great for these nobs, magnetized the whole set. But magnets arent one size fits all, of course you'd need a smaller on for smaller models. for a guardsmen, I reckon you are right, I'd start with a 1/16
have you every looked at using metal paint or metal tape? I think its krylon, that makes a spray can with metal based paint and i found a couple tapes that have metal flake in it to use with magnets.
What perfect timing! I was just thinking of doing magnetization on future Sequitors and Stormcast models to make full use of the sprue.
great use! :)
where dit you buy the magnets with dot's on, i looked on google on the name of "mag savi" and "savi magnet" but to no avail
What size magnets roughly do you recommend please
I'll be using these methods to magnetize my gunplas, I always have trouble with falling arms or legs
I just got a pin vise and 300 teeny magnets. thank you for this video!
In machining parlance what you are referring to as a priming hole is actually called a pilot hole. Just thought you might want to be as accurate as possible.
Where did you say you were going to have the link for the guide on Magnetize?
Is that the oculus home music?
You have a rockin awesome beard dude!
Could you do a tutorial for magnetising ball joints?
Hm... i dont think I own a single model that would need a ball joint. What are you trying to magnetize?
@@2Tough Tyranid Warriors and a Hive Tyrant. Primarily the warriors cause the joints are tiny.
I'd like a guide for ball joints for deathlords mortarch so I can swap out the hero and armor
What brand of magnets has that red dot? Thats brilliant! You plugged them but there is no link and googling it shows nothing...
sadly they are no longer in business :/
@@2Tough is there anyone else that does that? marking my magnets is a pain...
Well it's not as easy with every modell. sometimes the magnets need to be placed perfectly on the arm, take crypt horrors/flayers for example. Would like to know if someone has advices how to magnetize them.
You're right, Sascha. But when learning any new technique you tend to start with common examples rather then corner-case ones. I have a local FEC player, let me see if he needs something magnetized and I'll do another tutorial!
Great step-by-step approach. Thanks a lot. I can't wait to get started :)
I am very much interested in Skaven due to how fun they seem narratively, but their model base is very split at the moment due to the keywords. Some of the models are also not all that available, those which are seem to all have square bases and if I look at the Acolytes I would want for clan Skyre, they cost a fortune (9,10€ per model!). I am thinking either Skyre on its own or Verminus with some Eshin flanking and character hunting sprinkled in are attractive to me aesthetically. The later also might just take Masterclan too since they are already reduced to 'Skaven' or 'Chaos' anyways. Not really into Pestilens unfortunately.
Do you think there is a way to make it work? Is it worth it despite how outdated they seem? Any advice on how to go about it?
I so wish I had even thought about this before I glued my Frigate and 2 Gunhaulers. Oh well, when I make my Arachnaroks I'll see if I can magnetize the platforms so I can switch them out
Awesome tutorial. Thankyou for sharing bud.
Thank you so much Gary Westmorland! So Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome, just what I needed. Thanks
This vid comes at a perfect time i just got my carnosaur and plan to magnatize him
Thanks for a great video. Just ordered a stack of magnets, to start magnetizing new minis.
One question about painting the minis afterwards. Do you paint each part separately or on the mini and remove them afterwards?
Thank you for this... I had trouble with magnetise my verminlord tho...
Guide no longer available?!?
Love the video! I play Tau and the arms are much skinner, is it possible for me to do this?
I’ve been looking for the magnets you use, they come pre marked? Where can I get these?
@2+tough do you recommend doing this before priming the minis?
Hey can I get a list of all the items you use to magnetize you minis
What is the drill bit your using and the magnet size
What sizes of magnets did you use to sell? I ordered the complete set and I’m almost out!
I started with the ravager gun barrel magnet, if your statement is true i am now magnetically unstoppable
I very much appreciate you making this tutorial. It is useful and clear. I do however have 1 gripe. I hear you say in for example; your Start Collecting reviews, that you recommend we build X option of Y units. I fully get that the models are useful however I personally don't believe in the "what you see is what you get" mentality. If a person wishes to build mini's with spears but has the option for swords, I think some leeway is appropriate when making an army list and not be confined by your modelling choices. (Not talking about proxies, just selected weapon option for example) just hope you can support that point aswell as believing to be rigid in your choices scares off a lot of new players and leads to unwanted double purchases for example.
I do get your point, personally I don’t agree. If you have unit with spears I don’t think you should say it actually has swords. This has always been an aesthetic hobby, having the correct look for the weapons is a big part of that. But hey, if your opponent is fine with it then no worries!
Hey Mitchelltron,
When I make suggestions to new players in my Start Collecting reviews, it's not a modelling suggestion: New folks can easily be overwhelmed by weapon options and modelling. I make suggestions based on what I think will be the most fun in the long run. But truthfully, if someone is truly split on how to model something, I suggest doing half and half (half spears, half swords for example) then make it clear to your opponent what they are this game.
However, as a personal standard I like "what you see is what you get". I find that it makes games easier (your opponent knows exactly what every unit is/does). In addition it allows for a more fluid and immersive experience when modeled with a theme. These are all personal opinions, and I'd never refuse to play a game or poke fun at an opponent for them. If your opponent agrees to modelling whatever, who cares what I say? ;)
I agree. All my armies look pretty amazing if I say so myself. I take time to build them, and take pride in their appearance. When I play you know these models have ion guns, and these have flamers, etc... It’s annoying to me when I play somebody with an unpainted, partially constructed army and get the standard “these guys all have rocket launchers. Here guys have bolters, but I’m running them as meltas. This is a Rhino, but it’s actually a Predator. Also, remember it has 5 Storm Bolters and 2 Las Cannons. This is a regular guy, but he’s a Chaplain. This is a rock, but I’m running it as a Venerable Dreadnought with twin power claws. This is a...etc, etc. Okay, got it? Let’s play!”
The guide is in inch. Some1 know the dimensions in mm?
Will the drill bits offered fit in a manual vise drill? I use one for pinning currently don’t have a dremel
i am about to get an Archaon the Everchosen, i wanna magnetize his wings, on the size guide, would the 1/8" x 1/16" work best for that?
Edit: does the magnetization master set on the store come with 1/8" x 1/16" magnets?
Hey there, the sizes in that set are listed on the website, but let me see if I can get something bigger. Those wings are MASSIVE!
@@2Tough my buddies told me to use a couple of the 1/8" magnets, so that was the plan. Better to rely on multiple than just one, right?
Thank you.
Found out the hard way! If you paint pieces separately like I do, drill your holes before you paint!
Great vid
Hey Doug what's the motorised drill called again? And does it work for smaller magnets?
You can often find it called a rotary tool, and be sure to check which sizes of bits it works for. Cheaper ones cannot take smaller drill bits. You can always go for a hand drill for tiny ones :)
@@2Tough Thank you for your quick reply. Also I'd like to support you by buying some magnets but you guys don't ship to Australia.
@@2Tough Keep up the great work.
Thank you so much :) Im working on going international. Gonna start with the U.K then Australia!
@@2Tough If you remember this thread be sure to post a reply and I'll buy some magnets off you.
Magnet guide doesn't seem to be reachable at the moment?
Oh no! Let me work on that and I'll get right back to you!
Link should be working now :)
Still getting a "ERR_INVALID_RESPONSE" from the link in the mailchimp campaign. Direct url links from inside wp-content uploads should work, so I dunno what's up.
very strange, I'll keep at it. here's a direct link to the PDF cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1682/8487/files/Magnet_Size_Guide.pdf?6490955479461622046
Thanks Doug.
eXCELLENT VIDEO
This video helps alot! Many thanks :D
you can mark the depth you want with a piece of tape
Malus Darkblade lore please !!!!
I swear I quadruple checked polarity. Still screwed it up 😂
Yeah ! Magnet bitch !
Safety second? 🤷♂️
Hi. Thank you very much for this video. It was very informative. Is it possible you DM me your guide? Thanks a lot.
Have to give you my email for the magnet size guide? Thanks but no thanks
Like the video. But boy does this just keep one from getting into it. Buying a set, then buying some paint, brushes, glue ect. oh wait not enough you need magnets as well....
Baby steps friend, no need to rush it all, i t not mandatory to magnetize your new plastic friends!
@@lyrabrown7497 Well, I would have to be careful what I paint/assemble first.
오 내가 찾던거다
Why's this dude sound like the piggybank from toy story
I still hate magnetizing
"Repel" not "repulse". ;)
Advice: You dont ever EVER use any tool again your hands. :-/
Can we get a Part 2 advanced class? What about when those two magnets have to touch 100 percent perfectly or else it just wont jibe at all.
For example: Arbites. most dont have flat areas on the bottom of the arm with a flat area on the body. The area of connection for the two pieces are staggered or inclined in such a way. Sometimes its as if the bits were molded intentionally to discourage magnetization. I know its not the case, but when these models come out hard as hell to magnitize, you know GW just considers it an extra perk and laugh their way to the bank. I need as much advice with advanced magnetization as possible and doesnt seem like much advice on advanced is to be found in any ones videos. Who will be the first?
How about magnetizing the new Cadian field ordinance batteries? Ive seen a few solutions to that one but if you go in thinking its as easy as two holes, connect point a and b then prepare to be gravely discouraged. Id like to see you handle some of the harder stuff like that.
Reason being, I like your technique and would like to know how youd handle some of the harder problems beyond the simple. Some things involve jerry rigging I may not have even though of! May not even think of unless I see how someone else handles these kinds of problems. Thats the kind of magnet videos we need next.