Unfortunately, or fortunately for me, I had the luxury of doing all the work on the rack with the engine out. What I would suggest is placing it on the side with the nut (passenger on my car), get one bolt in with just two or three turns then try getting the second in, you should get enough movement on the rack that way to get the second bolt to line up. Only after it's on put the column back on too. I don't envy you doing that job with the engine in though, not a lot of space there to work. Good luck 🤞 Hope you get there.
Holy cow, how many wires and small pipes are there... documenting that would take ages... It looks like EP3 doesn't use any unusual shape for engine block or gearbox, gives me a chance to recreate things in Automation game and take models from there, if i gonna buy someday EP3 from Fujimi :P
No it's all pretty standard stuff 4 pot with gearbox on the side. Simple transverse mount in the front. Would love to see an EP3 from automation, could be driven in BeamNG
That would have been an easier way to to do this wouldn't it. Must check out car mechanic simulator next time its on sale on steam. Thanks for watching Vovoliloid.
hi mate, is the inside of the cabins rack bolt just literally that bolt and it undoes from the column. ie very easy to replace the rack as my bolts that hold it onto the brackets look safe enough to remove but my brackets are crusty bolt wise, so I want to steer well clear. so I take it its just 4 bolts, 1 in the cabin and 3 on the rack itself that hold it to the bracket?
Hey there. Inside the cabin it is just that one bolt holding the steering column to the rack, a little awkward to get to but easy enough. Those brackets are a pain to remove and if you can possibly do it without touching them that's the way to go. There is just three bolts holding the steering rack to the brackets they came easily, but I had the engine out of the way, I'm not sure about clearance when the engine bay is full. Also don't forget the track rod arms need removing, there is a small washer bent over these to stop them coming off. Bend them back flat before you loose the bolts and you'll be good. Good luck, in theory the rack is easy to replace, I think the tricky bit is the space. Thanks for watching.
@@JamesTumilty cheers mate, it's an ep2 and I've already replaced the tie rods and have a crows foot that does it and I think I have more clearance with my engine vs a k so should be OK. just trying to chase down a nasty knock as I've replaced literally everything else.
Any tricks to line the steering rack bolts up with the engine in the car ? I can’t get one of the bolts back in
Unfortunately, or fortunately for me, I had the luxury of doing all the work on the rack with the engine out. What I would suggest is placing it on the side with the nut (passenger on my car), get one bolt in with just two or three turns then try getting the second in, you should get enough movement on the rack that way to get the second bolt to line up. Only after it's on put the column back on too. I don't envy you doing that job with the engine in though, not a lot of space there to work. Good luck 🤞 Hope you get there.
Holy cow, how many wires and small pipes are there... documenting that would take ages... It looks like EP3 doesn't use any unusual shape for engine block or gearbox, gives me a chance to recreate things in Automation game and take models from there, if i gonna buy someday EP3 from Fujimi :P
No it's all pretty standard stuff 4 pot with gearbox on the side. Simple transverse mount in the front. Would love to see an EP3 from automation, could be driven in BeamNG
not as easy as car mechanic simulator it seem.
good work
That would have been an easier way to to do this wouldn't it. Must check out car mechanic simulator next time its on sale on steam. Thanks for watching Vovoliloid.
Since you've left it sitting, at this point what isn't rusty?
It's sat quite well, it's just showing its age a bit.
hi mate, is the inside of the cabins rack bolt just literally that bolt and it undoes from the column. ie very easy to replace the rack as my bolts that hold it onto the brackets look safe enough to remove but my brackets are crusty bolt wise, so I want to steer well clear. so I take it its just 4 bolts, 1 in the cabin and 3 on the rack itself that hold it to the bracket?
Hey there. Inside the cabin it is just that one bolt holding the steering column to the rack, a little awkward to get to but easy enough. Those brackets are a pain to remove and if you can possibly do it without touching them that's the way to go. There is just three bolts holding the steering rack to the brackets they came easily, but I had the engine out of the way, I'm not sure about clearance when the engine bay is full. Also don't forget the track rod arms need removing, there is a small washer bent over these to stop them coming off. Bend them back flat before you loose the bolts and you'll be good. Good luck, in theory the rack is easy to replace, I think the tricky bit is the space. Thanks for watching.
@@JamesTumilty cheers mate, it's an ep2 and I've already replaced the tie rods and have a crows foot that does it and I think I have more clearance with my engine vs a k so should be OK. just trying to chase down a nasty knock as I've replaced literally everything else.
@@otacon4065 Oh man, I know how difficult tracing mystery knocks can be. Good luck with that, hope you find it.
@@JamesTumilty thanks bro