Great job, I’m one of the old timers doing this by hand. However I’ve heard about this system and now seeing your video I feel it’s time for me to join the young troops. BTW. I’ve been doing it the hard way for about 50 years. Thanks.
Wow, that’s a long time. I wish I could find someone with that much experience to work for. UA-cam is the next best thing if you want to move up with your skills.
I hear you there Rob. I’ve been hand coping for a lil over 20years. I’ve seen this method a few times. The first few times they looked poorly done. This one however was clean and clear. Def makes me open to giving it a run. Take it easy woodchuck 🤙🏼
Been a carpenter for 30+ yrs and hand coped a lot of joints. I got my Collins Coping maybe 20 yrs ago for a Bosch jig saw. It was a game changer, especially for crown mldg. I really like the jig on the end of the table to hold crown in the installed orientation for coping. Your videos will pass some great tips to new and older carpenters who care to better their end product. Keep it up.
I am the old dog doing this old way for more years than you have been alive and tried the collins foot, but now with your fresh ideas and showing a better way I applaud you. Great to see such a young talented craftsman taking the torch. A+
Who would give this video a thumbs down?? I am an old school carpenter for over 20 years and I do things mostly like what he does.This guy is great!! Just jealous I guess.
You know who it is....it's either guys that are just so set in their ways that they don't want to hear it or just assholes that enjoy clicking the thumbs down. Gives em a charge of some sort.
@@Dani-ELmaninnoboxes Drywall inside corners are not always a perfect 90. Coping makes up for that, and it makes for much tighter corner joints. Get good at coping and you'll never go back to your old way of doing it. Personally, I can't wait to try the mechanical way of doing it. I've always used a hand coping saw.
As always, thanks for showing us how it’s done Spencer. I agree that coping w/ a hand saw can take a lot of time w/ hardwood. I’ve used the upside down method to take care of the straight section. The cordless jig saw does a fine job taking care of the rest. The Collins foot (& your relief cuts) looks like the way to go for speed & accuracy. Didn’t know about the Collins attachment. Now I do - thanks to you.
I don't swing the dropsaw/chopsaw back to 0 degrees. I always go minus 1 or 2 degrees to ensure the face of the timber touch if the frames are out of square.
Yeah the whole time he was talking about setting the saw back to zero I was kinda cringing! Any inside corner greater than 90• will have gaps if you don’t back cut a little
I’m an old school carpenter. Always worked residential single homes. The company I’m with now is currently working on a fairly large condo/ hotel project. I was up in one of the units the other week and they are using the same technique. Very interesting. I haven’t tied this but don’t ever think you can’t teach an old dog new tricks! I may just have to give it a go.
Over the years I've tried to remain open minded and learn techniques that produce quality service and provide the customer an excellent outcome. I see this in every video you have produced. This attitude, and perseverance, will have clients knocking down your door for the service(s) you offer. Your style of instruction is spot on and is an excellent style that will speak to pros, prosumers, and hobbyist. My only down fall with viewing your videos---My tool account is dwindling. You are a wealth of information, keep up the good work.
curious if anyone knows what a COPING saw is. I started working my father at age 9 in 1969. Running base I became very proficient with it. Progressing to chair rail, bedmold, crown molding etc. after 20 years active duty Army I started a handyman/home maintenance company and have found I can keep production WITH ACURACY as fast as anyone using a jigsaw or similar. I've seen their results and I'll repeat something my father would occasionally say about half steppers, "they wouldn't make a pimple on a carpenter's ass"... Have to admit if focused only on high production and painted trim these look to be useful. excellent video. Sad going into $500K + homes and finding base and chair rail cut at 45° and James into corner along with 1/4 tube of caulk. Another of my dad's favorites "we are carpenters not caulkers"... Did enjoy video and will check out the COPING foot.
I do mind on a 22 1/2 that's what I do every day baseboard, crown molding, kitchens, staircases but everybody has their preference. But with a zero degree usually if your wall is not 90° or more you'll have an open face
@Ryan Conway anybody who is putting non-dried wood in a house is an idiot. You're wood should not be shrinking no more than 1/16 at very most. And if you keep your trim big enough it will compensate for shrinkage. You must be fairly new to the game?
@insider Carpentry Spencer, your work is great. Also appreciate the explanation of your techniques, including the pros & cons. You should write an intro/outro for your videos. For example, "Welcome back to the channel. I'm Spencer and this is Insider Carpentry. Today we are going to cover...."
When I make that upside down square cut into my cut I like to set the saw to 1-3 degrees so it falls away from the edge. Makes the cope a little nicer I think.
I just use a Bosch sabre saw with a small blade scroll blade. Hand copes? Silly waste of time. Been using sabre saw for 30 years....very quick. And very quuck!!
Coping with a jigsaw is okay it's not really any different than a coping saw besides the fact that you're not physically sawing. You can still over cut with the jigsaw it's really no different I'm not sure where you're coming from with that. The only real difference is the physical part. the grinder is a total disaster it's just a dust storm.
I back cut about 5degrees on mine, rather than straight, that gives you a smidge more tight fit. Even with a cope, i put about a 5 degree angle. Then I use a dowel with 80 grit on it to get rid of any edge cuts. Haven't seen a molding shoe for jig saws yet. Should be great vs a flat shoe. Thanks for the look see. PS, lve been a carpenter for 45 year's, and never found a really strong coping saw. Must have 10 of them. Thanks again.
Only thing I use a hand coping saw is base cap. Milwaukee 12v cordlessJig saw with collins coping foot for everything else. Bought Mikwaukee grinder and some flap discs to try coping with those a year ago but have yet to try.
When I was your age I coped with a Coping Saw...always worked, always accurate...just never fast. Now I use the Festool Carvex PS 420 with a Collins foot
Bill Joel I’ve been using a coping saw for over 20 years and as far as production goes I am extremely faster than Festool or Dewalt. Some people can use them and some people can’t. Using those tools would slow me down, and way to damn expensive.
@@SuperDave44Mag I agree with you Dave, I have been building for some 37 years and my Dad showed me how to use a coping saw.. I started using a jig saw upside down probably 30 years ago which is what this Man is doing with the coping attachment. Its what one is happier with i suppose. Also on this side of the pond in Blighty its called a scribe for internal. Good video though and well explained by the young Man.
One factor that I didn’t talk about is the wear and tear on the body of using a coping saw daily for the longevity of a career. It’s a lot of movement, and the body does break down over time.
I'm very old school because I'm old. When I started there were no power tools. Imagine framing a house with a hand saw, Hand nailed everything. It took nearly a year to build one house. My grandson says I was born before dirt was invented , all in fun.
i learned to back cut a little 5 to 10 degrees where you were cutting the baseboard @ 5:33 the slight back cut allows the face of the baseboard to bite into the the other baseboard when you spring board it in. of course, only back-cut down to where the flat stops. also the baseboard that it’s biting souring installation “should not” be nailed into the wall at the end approximately 12” or so to let it float, so when the cooed end comes in to bite into it will push it into the wall, and sit flush along the coped edge if it’s not 90 degrees to the floor. allow me to explain it another way....obviously install the baseboard with the square end first, but don’t nail it in towards the end so it floats, the. when the coped end comes in, it pushes that square end into the wall and sort of teeters on the front coped edge so the line stays crisp and tight as it’s sprung fit, i did install base with this method and it did work nice. thought i’d pass. those two bits of info along. do you have a video on stair tread installation? i’m wondering what type of adjustable jig you use. i love your informi videos. keep posting!
Trim work is my specialty. I've always used a bosch barrel grip jig saw with a bosch 308 blade. It has the standard shoe on it which I hold onto as I make my cuts from the top side not allowing the shoe to contact the work. Its very fast and accurate. I never liked a coping handsaw, too slow and difficult. Not a fan of a grinder due to the excessive dust.
My method also.... just started with the coping foot, learning as I go. Mostly use a coping saw, (since 1974) .. my arms get tired quicker now though 😀, and the jigsaw has become a reality.
Great procedure. The only things I add is the use of a dremel with barrel sander in lieu of the files and I run my pencil sideways down the edge of the profile so I can see it better. Helps keep me from wandering into the piece.
Nice, I have used the coping saw and the grinder. But never a coping foot. I looks like it does a nice job and would be faster once you got the hang of it.
I'll have to try out the coping foot. I use a coping saw and an angle grinder to clean up the cope and hog outmaterial to sit flush on the existing piece
Nice tool but im going to stick to my angle grinder with a flap disk. Once you get used to it, it will make the job so much faster and it creates a nice tight joint
Loved the debate idea. Lots of good feed back. Inside miters make no sense unless you're doing it on cabinets or some custom build. Drywall is never true and angle finders don't give a true picture of what's happening beyond the corner. Cope insides, nested is faster so you're not constantly flipping the saw all around. Cut crown flat doesn't work on all crown types depending on the spring angle. Like the Collins foot . Been meaning to get one.
This was really cool! I’ve only ever done coping cuts by hand and that’s been awhile. I didn’t even know this was a possibility until now! Great tools & tips!
Great tip...I have been using a grinder for some time. There is always a time when you need the old cope saw and have to actually hand cut. Thanks for your great videos
Great work as always , I'm the same always used a jigsaw I do occasionally use my coping saw mostly for crown but I like the idea of this saw you use being able to turn it what ever direction I need it my corded standard jigsaw is a pain
I want the barrel grip so bad, currently using the regular jigsaw with the Collins coping foot, I will say I’m getting much better. But I have a different question, what mitre saw would you recommend, I current use the Rigid 12” sliding compound saw and it starting to give me problems. Any advise would be appreciated.
I like the DW780 XPS. It is what I use daily. I good blade is really important also. I use FS Tool LM or SM 6300. It is listed in my amazon storefront lists. See video notes. See the onsite tool setup list. If you purchase through those links amazon gives me a kickback. Thanks 👍👊
I did restoration and renovation on an old apartment building for about 15 years and I installed a lot of paint grade floor molding. I'm not proud of it. Painter's caulk was my friend. At the end I had gotten a little fancier and I was measuring the corner angle and cutting the molding using that measurement. That substantially improved the quality of my work but not to the point that my inside corners didn't need some painter's caulk occasionally. I'm sorry I never tried coping. It wouldn't have gotten me another nickel a month for the units but I would like to have tried it.
One end of the crown sits on a garbage can. The other end is coped with the table saw. Been doing it that way for the last 30 years.. When you work in Manhattan you bring your tools to work on the subway . You cant lug a boat load of tools from job to job..
For base, I've used the upside down cut, then finish with a Dremel with a Kutzall Burr. The cylinder-shape burr will give you flat and concave cuts. Very fast.
I’ve been using the coping foot for a few years now. For production, I find it more efficient. And with the advent of a dedicated cordless coping tool, It will further enhance my production. I still own my first coping saw though 🤣
One thing I noticed is that once you cut the bevel, you cut the line straight down towards the top where the profile is; I found you get a better fit if instead of setting the saw at 90°, set it for a back cut of 22°, it makes for a really tight fit
I've been coping with a D-Handle jigsaw for 10 years. I haven't any issues from the top side of the piece and just keep a good grip on the tool and let the blade do the work. I would like to try a coping foot on a barrel grip jigsaw some day since I've seen it so often on youtube. In my area, trimmers just use a d-handle or a coping saw. I don't mind using a coping saw, but maaaaaan is it slower.
@@edwh164 coping saw blades come in "tpi" = teeth per inch. Harder woods like maple/oak/hickory increase to 20 tpi. Also, quality blades like starrett are far superior and worth the money.
Where in the heck are you working where you need an entire rack just to hold the enormous amount of trim your using.........great videos, but still very curious if that's a house, apartments, or some kind of government or commercial building your working in in all these videos🤔
All I use is my husky coping saw. Never got around to trying the coping foot but hand coping is speedy with practice and the right blades. I use olson brand.
I agree, I can do it fast with a quality coping saw and don’t need the carry all these extra tools into the house. on paint grade wood I just make the coped peices a little long and when you pop them in it marries up the cope beautifully
Please tell us about your miter saw table set up, homemade, store-bought, brand-name, maybe a video showing from the trailer to your job site set up. TIA
Measuring up should be easy then add 10%-15% if you have to much you can bring it back better than wasting half a day going to get more if you are short. Work out how long you think it will take and add 2-3 days depending how big that covers unexpected things, your consultation and the time to price materials
Keith Byrne thanks Keith, I was wondering more about when he does his cut list for each room does he take all finished measurements from wall to wall for base or crown or does he have an adjustment to make it fit tight.Cheers.
THANKS FOR SUPPORTING THIS CHANNEL BY VISITING THESE AFFILIATE LINKS:
DEWALT DCS335B 20V Max Cordless Brushless Barrel Grip Jig Saw - geni.us/Uv00Y (Amazon)
Collings Coping Foot - geni.us/hPL9Hgx (Amazon)
Best Blades for Coping Foot - Bosch T244D - geni.us/vvQY (Amazon)
Can you please do a video on coping PVC baseboard with the collins coping tool!
Best recommendation I have ever gotten on any tool. I absolutely love it. Its handy for everything.
HEY MAN, FANTASTIC JOB ALL AROUND. PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON CUTTING ACUTE ANGLES LIKE FOR WALL BOES ON STAIRS
???
Spencer is there any difference between Collins and others that are hlf price but look identical?
thos saw wings are nice, did you custome make those or are they purchasable ?
Great job, I’m one of the old timers doing this by hand. However I’ve heard about this system and now seeing your video I feel it’s time for me to join the young troops. BTW. I’ve been doing it the hard way for about 50 years. Thanks.
I'm 33 bud and was thought using the coping saw and will I used a sanding disc on a grinder to tidy if needed
Wow, that’s a long time. I wish I could find someone with that much experience to work for. UA-cam is the next best thing if you want to move up with your skills.
I hear you there Rob. I’ve been hand coping for a lil over 20years. I’ve seen this method a few times. The first few times they looked poorly done. This one however was clean and clear. Def makes me open to giving it a run. Take it easy woodchuck 🤙🏼
I concur! Many years of doing it the hard way. I like his coping jig too! Actually his whole setup is golden.
So refreshing to a carpenter with great skills and who is able to intelligently articulate his thoughts. Great video, keep them coming.
And I thought alcohol was the best coping tool...lol. Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Dang funny
Nice!
No it's alcohol and weed
Heroin and bath salts
good one
This should be required watching for ALL trim carpenters.
Even us old guys can still learn from these younger craftsman.
Wear knee pads .!!
I used to make fun of the geezers wearing knee pads. 20 years later I wish I would have listened to them.
Probably even more important....wear hearing protection...
@@ottokriete1153 WHAT?!
@@caseydurrans521 never had that problem myself but I didn't play football either. lol
@@ottokriete1153 Yeah, I learned too late.
been asking for years "who is gonna do this work when we are gone"? glad to see the next generation. inovate and still love this work.very cool setup
Been a carpenter for 30+ yrs and hand coped a lot of joints. I got my Collins Coping maybe 20 yrs ago for a Bosch jig saw. It was a game changer, especially for crown mldg. I really like the jig on the end of the table to hold crown in the installed orientation for coping. Your videos will pass some great tips to new and older carpenters who care to better their end product. Keep it up.
Same
I am the old dog doing this old way for more years than you have been alive and tried the collins foot, but now with your fresh ideas and showing a better way I applaud you. Great to see such a young talented craftsman taking the torch. A+
Great to hear!
Who would give this video a thumbs down?? I am an old school carpenter for over 20 years and I do things mostly like what he does.This guy is great!! Just jealous I guess.
UA-cam is brutal man. Thanks for the kind words!
You know who it is....it's either guys that are just so set in their ways that they don't want to hear it or just assholes that enjoy clicking the thumbs down. Gives em a charge of some sort.
Why do you cope a baseboard ?I cut 45s and put it together what am I missing g
@@Dani-ELmaninnoboxes Drywall inside corners are not always a perfect 90. Coping makes up for that, and it makes for much tighter corner joints. Get good at coping and you'll never go back to your old way of doing it. Personally, I can't wait to try the mechanical way of doing it. I've always used a hand coping saw.
Over 20 years isn’t old school. Try 40 then get back to us. I’m at over 50.
You should make a video about your miter saw setup. That thing looks well thought out.
As always, thanks for showing us how it’s done Spencer. I agree that coping w/ a hand saw can take a lot of time w/ hardwood. I’ve used the upside down method to take care of the straight section. The cordless jig saw does a fine job taking care of the rest. The Collins foot (& your relief cuts) looks like the way to go for speed & accuracy. Didn’t know about the Collins attachment. Now I do - thanks to you.
Nice. I learned the old way from my dad. If he saw this, he'd say that this was really nice!
Excellent! Thank you for this very informative video.
I don't swing the dropsaw/chopsaw back to 0 degrees.
I always go minus 1 or 2 degrees to ensure the face of the timber touch if the frames are out of square.
That’s a good tip. 👍
Yeah the whole time he was talking about setting the saw back to zero I was kinda cringing! Any inside corner greater than 90• will have gaps if you don’t back cut a little
This is why I read comments.., better advice than the video 😂
Good video 👍👍👍
I’m an old school carpenter. Always worked residential single homes. The company I’m with now is currently working on a fairly large condo/ hotel project. I was up in one of the units the other week and they are using the same technique. Very interesting. I haven’t tied this but don’t ever think you can’t teach an old dog new tricks! I may just have to give it a go.
Over the years I've tried to remain open minded and learn techniques that produce quality service and provide the customer an excellent outcome. I see this in every video you have produced. This attitude, and perseverance, will have clients knocking down your door for the service(s) you offer. Your style of instruction is spot on and is an excellent style that will speak to pros, prosumers, and hobbyist. My only down fall with viewing your videos---My tool account is dwindling. You are a wealth of information, keep up the good work.
Thanks for the motivating encouragement 👍👊
@@InsiderCarpentry m noI7
curious if anyone knows what a COPING saw is. I started working my father at age 9 in 1969. Running base I became very proficient with it. Progressing to chair rail, bedmold, crown molding etc. after 20 years active duty Army I started a handyman/home maintenance company and have found I can keep production WITH ACURACY as fast as anyone using a jigsaw or similar. I've seen their results and I'll repeat something my father would occasionally say about half steppers, "they wouldn't make a pimple on a carpenter's ass"...
Have to admit if focused only on high production and painted trim these look to be useful. excellent video.
Sad going into $500K + homes and finding base and chair rail cut at 45° and James into corner along with 1/4 tube of caulk. Another of my dad's favorites "we are carpenters not caulkers"...
Did enjoy video and will check out the COPING foot.
you will find your joints get a lot tighter if you back cut the straight cut on your skirting 5 degrees nice and snug every time oh yeah
@@kenlame1197 good call
@@kenlame1197 Thats great trekkers. Keep up the good work/ videos.
@@kenlame1197Technique, must be a uk thing
I do mind on a 22 1/2 that's what I do every day baseboard, crown molding, kitchens, staircases but everybody has their preference. But with a zero degree usually if your wall is not 90° or more you'll have an open face
@Ryan Conway anybody who is putting non-dried wood in a house is an idiot. You're wood should not be shrinking no more than 1/16 at very most. And if you keep your trim big enough it will compensate for shrinkage. You must be fairly new to the game?
@insider Carpentry Spencer, your work is great. Also appreciate the explanation of your techniques, including the pros & cons. You should write an intro/outro for your videos. For example, "Welcome back to the channel. I'm Spencer and this is Insider Carpentry. Today we are going to cover...."
When I make that upside down square cut into my cut I like to set the saw to 1-3 degrees so it falls away from the edge. Makes the cope a little nicer I think.
I just use a Bosch sabre saw with a small blade scroll blade. Hand copes? Silly waste of time. Been using sabre saw for 30 years....very quick. And very quuck!!
The 541 dislikes are people who hate themselves and life. You couldn’t give them a brinks truck of gold to make them happy.
I didn't dislike but do not agree with him...30 years doing production trimmer.
Coping with a jigsaw is okay it's not really any different than a coping saw besides the fact that you're not physically sawing. You can still over cut with the jigsaw it's really no different I'm not sure where you're coming from with that. The only real difference is the physical part. the grinder is a total disaster it's just a dust storm.
been asking for years "who is gonna do this work when we are gone"? glad to see the next generation. inovate and still love this work.very cool setup
MANUFACTURER AND EXPORTER
[ PRODUCT INTRODUCTION]
BASEBOARD/MDF WHITE MOULDING /CROWN/CASING/WAINSTCOT/QTARTERROUND
ANY INTERESTING , PLEASE CONTACT US.
For the love of god keep these videos coming, extremely helpful.
Lots of butchers out there flapping their gums but as a pro myself I can confirm that this guy is a legit pro.
Use a 4inch angle with 36 grit sandpaper on fast and accurate
I back cut about 5degrees on mine, rather than straight, that gives you a smidge more tight fit. Even with a cope, i put about a 5 degree angle. Then I use a dowel with 80 grit on it to get rid of any edge cuts. Haven't seen a molding shoe for jig saws yet. Should be great vs a flat shoe. Thanks for the look see.
PS, lve been a carpenter for 45 year's, and never found a really strong coping saw. Must have 10 of them. Thanks again.
I coped with a hand saw for many years, I got good at it, but I'm going this route from now on. Nice work!
Only thing I use a hand coping saw is base cap. Milwaukee 12v cordlessJig saw with collins coping foot for everything else. Bought Mikwaukee grinder and some flap discs to try coping with those a year ago but have yet to try.
When I was your age I coped with a Coping Saw...always worked, always accurate...just never fast. Now I use the Festool Carvex PS 420 with a Collins foot
Bill Joel I’ve been using a coping saw for over 20 years and as far as production goes I am extremely faster than Festool or Dewalt. Some people can use them and some people can’t. Using those tools would slow me down, and way to damn expensive.
@@SuperDave44Mag I agree with you Dave, I have been building for some 37 years and my Dad showed me how to use a coping saw.. I started using a jig saw upside down probably 30 years ago which is what this Man is doing with the coping attachment. Its what one is happier with i suppose. Also on this side of the pond in Blighty its called a scribe for internal. Good video though and well explained by the young Man.
One factor that I didn’t talk about is the wear and tear on the body of using a coping saw daily for the longevity of a career. It’s a lot of movement, and the body does break down over time.
@@InsiderCarpentry Try framing for 30 years and then we'll talk body breaking down. Haha! I love it when I get a trim job.
I'm very old school because I'm old. When I started there were no power tools. Imagine framing a house with a hand saw, Hand nailed everything. It took nearly a year to build one house. My grandson says I was born before dirt was invented , all in fun.
Weed is the best Coping tool
i learned to back cut a little 5 to 10 degrees where you were cutting the baseboard @ 5:33 the slight back cut allows the face of the baseboard to bite into the the other baseboard when you spring board it in.
of course, only back-cut down to where the flat stops.
also the baseboard that it’s biting souring installation “should not” be nailed into the wall at the end approximately 12” or so to let it float, so when the cooed end comes in to bite into it will push it into the wall, and sit flush along the coped edge if it’s not 90 degrees to the floor.
allow me to explain it another way....obviously install the baseboard with the square end first, but don’t nail it in towards the end so it floats, the. when the coped end comes in, it pushes that square end into the wall and sort of teeters on the front coped edge so the line stays crisp and tight as it’s sprung fit,
i did install base with this method and it did work nice.
thought i’d pass. those two bits of info along.
do you have a video on stair tread installation?
i’m wondering what type of adjustable jig you use.
i love your informi videos. keep posting!
Trim work is my specialty. I've always used a bosch barrel grip jig saw with a bosch 308 blade. It has the standard shoe on it which I hold onto as I make my cuts from the top side not allowing the shoe to contact the work. Its very fast and accurate. I never liked a coping handsaw, too slow and difficult. Not a fan of a grinder due to the excessive dust.
Consider giving the Collins coping foot a try. I think you’ll like it. 👍
My method also.... just started with the coping foot, learning as I go.
Mostly use a coping saw, (since 1974) .. my arms get tired quicker now though 😀, and the jigsaw has become a reality.
Can you do a video of your process of cutting crown and hanging?
Great procedure. The only things I add is the use of a dremel with barrel sander in lieu of the files and I run my pencil sideways down the edge of the profile so I can see it better. Helps keep me from wandering into the piece.
I didn't even know that dewalt made that coping jig saw!!! I'm buying one tomorrow!!! Thank you and excellent video!!!
beautifully done. well explained, good camera job. I learned a lot from this video and thank you so much!
Man that was by far the best explanation and video I've seen in a while. That set up you have there is pretty sweet too. Nice work.
Nice, I have used the coping saw and the grinder. But never a coping foot. I looks like it does a nice job and would be faster once you got the hang of it.
I use a hand coping saw. Only thing I’ve ever used.
One advantage to using a hand coping Saw , is great looking Popeye arms. You get a good "burn" on. 👍
Just sold me on getting the Dewalt. I still do most of my copes with a hand saw but I want to start using that jigsaw now. Way better
I used a hand saw for a few years. Recently started using a Milwaukee jigsaw and it's much cleaner and quicker
Nice video. I would have liked to have a closer view of the cutting you did with the miter saw prior to coping.
I'll have to try out the coping foot. I use a coping saw and an angle grinder to clean up the cope and hog outmaterial to sit flush on the existing piece
Nice tool but im going to stick to my angle grinder with a flap disk. Once you get used to it, it will make the job so much faster and it creates a nice tight joint
I also use a bic roundstic pen with Norton sticky paper . I wrap the sandpaper around the pen and it’s rigid . You can do a lot of detail with it
Awsome video!! Love the miter stand/fence. I'm sure you built it yourself? You sell the plans? Keep up the videos, very thorough.
Glad I found you. Just subscribed. Thanks for the tips
Loved the debate idea. Lots of good feed back. Inside miters make no sense unless you're doing it on cabinets or some custom build. Drywall is never true and angle finders don't give a true picture of what's happening beyond the corner. Cope insides, nested is faster so you're not constantly flipping the saw all around. Cut crown flat doesn't work on all crown types depending on the spring angle. Like the Collins foot . Been meaning to get one.
Why does this video have 624 dislikes? It is a very good video and Spencer Lewis is a very good presenter.
I'm very impressed with your setup! Great video, everything is going cordless these days and I love it!!!
Wow you are good. I do a lot of woodwork and mill work. I’m going to check out this tool. I like the brand tools you use.
This was really cool! I’ve only ever done coping cuts by hand and that’s been awhile. I didn’t even know this was a possibility until now! Great tools & tips!
Any tool I can buy to accommodate my basic lack of skill is definitely worth the investment
Whenever I cut the straight part of the base I cut it with a back bevel of about 2 degrees so the front always closes and an open is in the back.
Me too
Always
Spencer Lewis Could you do a video on your miter saw stand and your jigs please...
Great tip...I have been using a grinder for some time. There is always a time when you need the old cope saw and have to actually hand cut. Thanks for your great videos
Ever try using a Dremel with a sanding barrel to tweet the rads. Works great and fast.
Love your setup, pretty cool & functional👍🏻
My go to coping to is jigsaw with coping foot, Milwaukee barrel grip😁
For me, the coping saw is the last bastion of actually hand sawing so I cling to it.
i am 58 and this video just proves that you are never to old learn a new trick or application
Love your set up. I will be adding the dewalt jig saw to my tool box
Hand saw till the day I die. Maybe a little file
Yep. Always a rasp in the bag.
When you finish that first cope by hand I’ll be done doing 5
@@jujitsu3254 👍
Ive been hand copping for 20 yrs. 62 yrs old just don,t get it
That was a beautiful cope. Nice work
Good vid. Liked it. Anything to speed up coping and make it a touch easier makes sense to me.
Great work as always , I'm the same always used a jigsaw I do occasionally use my coping saw mostly for crown but I like the idea of this saw you use being able to turn it what ever direction I need it my corded standard jigsaw is a pain
Great video. I enjoy seeing your techniques and different tools for doing trim work. Keep the videos coming. ☠️
I want the barrel grip so bad, currently using the regular jigsaw with the Collins coping foot, I will say I’m getting much better. But I have a different question, what mitre saw would you recommend, I current use the Rigid 12” sliding compound saw and it starting to give me problems. Any advise would be appreciated.
I like the DW780 XPS. It is what I use daily. I good blade is really important also. I use FS Tool LM or SM 6300. It is listed in my amazon storefront lists. See video notes. See the onsite tool setup list. If you purchase through those links amazon gives me a kickback. Thanks 👍👊
nice video, I like using the 12v Makita with a coping foot. It is nice a light for an old guy like me.
Fantastic job. Your 50 levels above me lol. I learned a lot TBH
I did restoration and renovation on an old apartment building for about 15 years and I installed a lot of paint grade floor molding. I'm not proud of it. Painter's caulk was my friend. At the end I had gotten a little fancier and I was measuring the corner angle and cutting the molding using that measurement. That substantially improved the quality of my work but not to the point that my inside corners didn't need some painter's caulk occasionally. I'm sorry I never tried coping. It wouldn't have gotten me another nickel a month for the units but I would like to have tried it.
So grab a piece of trim and try it.Coping practice like whittling a stick to a old timer keeps ya busy and builds your skill set
One end of the crown sits on a garbage can. The other end is coped with the table saw. Been doing it that way for the last 30 years.. When you work in Manhattan you bring your tools to work on the subway . You cant lug a boat load of tools from job to job..
That would suck. I Iove my truck and its bed full of tools. Working in a big city sucks donkey genitalia.
For base, I've used the upside down cut, then finish with a Dremel with a Kutzall Burr. The cylinder-shape burr will give you flat and concave cuts. Very fast.
Which Kutzall Burr do you use for coping?
Great video
Lot of good information to learn on how to do the job properly. Thanks
I’ve been using the coping foot for a few years now. For production, I find it more efficient. And with the advent of a dedicated cordless coping tool, It will further enhance my production. I still own my first coping saw though 🤣
Wow, A true Master. Thanks for the schooling.
One thing I noticed is that once you cut the bevel, you cut the line straight down towards the top where the profile is; I found you get a better fit if instead of setting the saw at 90°, set it for a back cut of 22°, it makes for a really tight fit
Man, you're on absolutely another level! Great video, thank you.
A coping saw.
I've been coping with a D-Handle jigsaw for 10 years. I haven't any issues from the top side of the piece and just keep a good grip on the tool and let the blade do the work.
I would like to try a coping foot on a barrel grip jigsaw some day since I've seen it so often on youtube. In my area, trimmers just use a d-handle or a coping saw. I don't mind using a coping saw, but maaaaaan is it slower.
You’d love a coping foot on a barrel grip jigsaw after you’d get used to it. 👍
A coping saw.
15tpi
J Hart , what is 15tpi ? Thanks
@@edwh164 coping saw blades come in "tpi" = teeth per inch.
Harder woods like maple/oak/hickory increase to 20 tpi.
Also, quality blades like starrett are far superior and worth the money.
Thank you sir, appreciate the information
@@jhart7304 totally agree that's what I use cut my bass upside down and then put a 22 1/2 back cut and use a hand saw
@@jhart7304 you have that bas-acwards. Fewer tpi for oak. (Trim carpenter for 35 yrs.)
Nice job bud...love that jig ,but try the Bosch 12v jigsaw it works great to .
It looks really nice. I stick with dewalt to try and stay all on one batter platform.
I like that system turned out real nice clean a tool I’ll probably go buy
Wow. Your results speak pretty loudly, man.
Where in the heck are you working where you need an entire rack just to hold the enormous amount of trim your using.........great videos, but still very curious if that's a house, apartments, or some kind of government or commercial building your working in in all these videos🤔
Custom residential homes.
That jigsaw with the coping foot is not in the budget but I still learned so much watching this. Thank you!
Nicely done. Very insightful. Earned a sub
I can spot a craftsman when I see one. Nice job quick and clean that's how you make money in construction.
he is a very good tradie.lol from australia.i have done it about 36 years
Awesome! It's so funny to me that this is a "Heated" topic. Anytime I learn something new or a new way to look at a problem I'm happy.
What material do you like to use for the most part? I'm pricing MDF, PVC and finger joint wood
Finger jointed poplar.
All I use is my husky coping saw. Never got around to trying the coping foot but hand coping is speedy with practice and the right blades. I use olson brand.
I agree, I can do it fast with a quality coping saw and don’t need the carry all these extra tools into the house.
on paint grade wood I just make the coped peices a little long and when you pop them in it marries up the cope beautifully
Need a video on your mitersaw / stand setup ... interested in that !!
Please tell us about your miter saw table set up, homemade, store-bought, brand-name, maybe a video showing from the trailer to your job site set up. TIA
If you look in his other videos he has a video showing it off, it's home made.
Just got me subscribing to your channel,, excellent stuff👍
Great advise.do you have any pointers on measuring up materials for a job and how you go about pricing /bidding a job.
Measuring up should be easy then add 10%-15% if you have to much you can bring it back better than wasting half a day going to get more if you are short. Work out how long you think it will take and add 2-3 days depending how big that covers unexpected things, your consultation and the time to price materials
Keith Byrne thanks Keith, I was wondering more about when he does his cut list for each room does he take all finished measurements from wall to wall for base or crown or does he have an adjustment to make it fit tight.Cheers.
🔨. Don't forget the tiny belt sander. DUST 👍