I'm in the u.s. been in cabinetmaking since I was 16 now almost 50. You are my favorite woodworkingvtip jig and fabrication guy ever. Thank you for always making my work safer, nicer and easier to do. Especially the cost effective wonderful jigs
Thank you, Peter, for sharing your knowledge! I am about to build a cupboard for my dining room/conservatory. It has to be a non-standard size, so rather than pay a fortune for something that will be a compromise, I have decided to make the whole thing myself. Your shaker door tutorial, along with this sled tutorial, answer all my questions on how best to go about it. All the best on your, er, early retirement 👍
Peter thanks for the tip on this simple sled, works great. Making shaker doors for my old kitchen cabinets. Bought cope and stick router bits but changed mind. Was going to use Dominos and cut my parts, then realized 2 dominos would work so good in 2 1/4" rails. Parts cut too short for cope and stick so decided to go with Peter Millard spline method. Hope I can get them together, you make it look easy. Love your videos.
I love your simplistic solutions. You’ve certainly inspired me to make lots of simple and cheap jigs. Thanks for all the videos you have made and uploaded. It’s appreciated.
I know this is an older vid but thank you as it helps me get over a problem having just used a homemade table, a bit of kick back, that blew corner off the small pine board even tho using a push block to try and stop that. Also liked those featherboards and the simple, but now going to be used, router guard. Lots of vids out there but no one else has mentioned or even shown one!
Hi Kris. It is very simple - I talk about it a little in my workshop tour, here - ua-cam.com/video/Ce_gMwIQQsk/v-deo.html - but yes, I have a video planned where I go into it in some more detail. Thanks! P
I could take or leave the router sled - don’t get me wrong, the video is well made and informative, but I’m not sure I’d use it much. The router guard on the cutting bit - that’s an elegant solution. And it’s so obvious (you know, once you figured it out and demonstrated). Nicely done!
Just stumbled onto your video. The word here is simplicity. Well done my friend. Video is well shot, instructions are clear. You earned a new subscriber.
Omg! The board clamped onto the router fence would've saved my last project! I was making a miter lock joint which worked perfectly with scrap but the actual material had a slight bow in it that I didn't know about until it was too late. Having that board clamped against the top as you have would've saved that piece. Anyway, im going to put something like that together for future faced down joints. Have you seen anything creative for routing items standing up?
I'm using your "willfully stupid" around our shop and job sites. It's brilliant. I feel surrounded by them because I'm pretty sure I'm their leader. Rest assured that all my digits are intact and safety is extremely important to us.😃
Glad to see you have not gone down the impact driver route for screwing [that sound bad, but you know what I mean], I dislike them intensely, far too fast, but then I am an old fart. You say that someone would have to be really stupid to put their hand on the router cutter with your guard in place, which is true, I am a Brit living in the US and I am almost certain you would find someone over here doing it!!
Thanks Robin! Yes, I had some time with a ‘rattler’ but I simply grew tired of the noise! They have their place, but for the vast majority of the work I do, a decent drill/driver does the same thing, relatively quietly. 👍👍
Great simple tool. I see all those fancy coping sleds. They take forever to set up and they don't truly work as well as your simple jig. Thanks for posting.
Hello Peter. I'm a real fan of your videos. I wonder if you might consider doing a video on your router table which you seem to have made yourself? It would be good to know how to go about something similar. Thanks.
Great videos, Peter! I notice in many you are often checking the position of your piece when wanting an overhead shot - you're looking up to check the image. Why not simply mark the "centre spot" on your worktop, so you can check without having to look away? Perhaps a large cross, or a small cross/dot with aligned marks a little further out (crosshair style)?
Thanks Stephen. The overhead camera isn’t fixed in position - it can cover the whole of the bench, so a mark of some kind on the bench centre wouldn’t be much help tbh. Also this is video #045 - I’ve done another 300-odd since this one, and I’m fairly sure I do it less these days! 😆👍👍
Just getting a DIY project started and I find I really enjoy working with wood. This vid is just what I need. BUT, one question I could do with your thoughts on. I am making shaker doors with a plywood panel. How would you suggest I cut the groove for the plywood. Problem is that it seems hard to find a router cut that matches the thickness of the plywood in the UK. 5mm feels too flimsy so I think I will try 9mm ply. I dont fancy MDF due to all the dust. Can you help me out?
Hi Peter, great video, as always 😊 and very useful and simple jig 👍👍 By the way, I’ve been searching on your site and UA-cam, and don’t find any video on building a router table. It would be great to take a look on how you’ve made the one we can see in This video. Do you have any video on that? BTW, I like it that it seems simple, self made (fences, featherboard, guard…)
Thanks Ernesto! I haven’t done anything on the router table/bench, but I’ll be re-building that side of the workshop before toro long, and re-making that router bench. 👍👍
Hi Peter, really enjoy the videos, you seem to have the format just right. The router table you have, is the router simply screwed direct to the underside of the work bench, with no mounting plate? Do you get any debris /dust falling beneath the table? And what make router do you use please, it seems quite easy to adjust the depth when in situ? Many thanks!
Hi Kelly. Yes, the router’s screwed through the bench top, though the top has been thickened up with layers of MDF to keep it as flat as possible. There’s a bit of dust and debris that gets through, but not too much, as long as I’m using dust collection on the fence. The router’s an older Triton, the big one - TRA001?? - the newer versions have a little dingus that lets you adjust it from the top, which would be even handier, but access is good below my bench so not an issue for me. I need to remake that bench, so keep your eyes peeled for a ‘router bench remake’ video before too long. 👍
Hi, Peter. Compared to a push block with a hook or board attached to the trailing edge to minimize splintering, it appears that this sled design requires the thickness of the base matches the thickness of the material being routed. Is that correct? By the way, thanks for posting your videos. I appreciate your style of presentation.
hi Peter. would you mind giving me the heads-up on a couple of things.. Do you find the ear buds you use as good as ear defenders? What brand do you use? Any recommendations for clamps? (Finally buying some) Router cutter you use for tenons. thanks for your time.
+Anthony James Brown There's a full list of 'stuff I use' (with links) on my website - www.10minuteworkshop.com I use Moldex in-ear earplugs on a band as they're very good, but if you're going to be up close to something very loud then I pull on my 3M Peltor 111s over-ear as they're the best I've found. I'll use just about any clamp, but I do like the Bessey Duoclamps as they're really easy to change from clamping to spreading. Pretty much all my router cutters come from Wealden tool - great to deal with and top quality. 👍
Hi peter, start off with saying great videos all of them, and any advice please I got myself a little work shop with post tools and power tools also (never have to many lol) some body asked me to make a bench? From any type of wood or reclaimed wood, how do i price it up? I know it depends what talent I have n how long it takes is that true? Thank you
+dan barrow Hi Dan. Pricing' always hard, especially at the beginning. Typically, you need to cost out the time it's likely to take, plus materials; don't forget the time involved in prepping reclaimed wood, and don't forget the time taken to finish the piece as well (stain, varnish, whatever). Have a look around on 'Not on the high street' or Etsy and see if there's anything similar on sale there - if only as a guide to what other makers think their work is worth. HTH, and good luck! Peter
Thanks. There's a school of thought that you shouldn't wear gloves at all, that they could get caught and pull your hand into the machinery. I wear mine simply because MDF is quite a slippery material, and they give me a better grip.That's all. 👍
Thanks! Links are in the video description 👍 I use a 1/4" heavy duty grooving bit from Wealden tool, with the appropriate arbor - Heavy duty groover - @t Arbor for above - @t
Me too, and if I went out today I’d be sledging, not sledding. But the thing that runs against a fence to keep the workpiece in line? That’s a sled, not a sledge. 👍
Very useful, Peter. Although I must admit, I couldn't enjoy this video to it's full potential as I kept getting the feeling your Bosch(?) router on that shelf in the top right there was going to fall off!?
I forgot to add, what do you think of one where the wood piece can be changed out? That way it could be used again and again. Perhaps using screws in a location where they're not close to the cutter.
I'm in the u.s. been in cabinetmaking since I was 16 now almost 50. You are my favorite woodworkingvtip jig and fabrication guy ever. Thank you for always making my work safer, nicer and easier to do. Especially the cost effective wonderful jigs
So simple and so useful. Thanks. Love your accent and phraseology!
Thank you! 👍
Thank you, Peter, for sharing your knowledge! I am about to build a cupboard for my dining room/conservatory. It has to be a non-standard size, so rather than pay a fortune for something that will be a compromise, I have decided to make the whole thing myself. Your shaker door tutorial, along with this sled tutorial, answer all my questions on how best to go about it.
All the best on your, er, early retirement 👍
Thanks! 👍👍
Peter thanks for the tip on this simple sled, works great. Making shaker doors for my old kitchen cabinets. Bought cope and stick router bits but changed mind. Was going to use Dominos and cut my parts, then realized 2 dominos would work so good in 2 1/4" rails. Parts cut too short for cope and stick so decided to go with Peter Millard spline method. Hope I can get them together, you make it look easy. Love your videos.
I love your simplistic solutions. You’ve certainly inspired me to make lots of simple and cheap jigs.
Thanks for all the videos you have made and uploaded. It’s appreciated.
+Steve Kent Thanks! Glad you find them useful 👍
I know this is an older vid but thank you as it helps me get over a problem having just used a homemade table, a bit of kick back, that blew corner off the small pine board even tho using a push block to try and stop that. Also liked those featherboards and the simple, but now going to be used, router guard. Lots of vids out there but no one else has mentioned or even shown one!
Thanks! Always good to hear when one of the older vids has helped out! 👍👍
I think I am gonna try this. Looks great at keeping the digits out of the works.
+Gareth Dirlam Sure does. 👍
Hi Peter,
Would love a video on your router bench, love the simplicity of it but looks really robust and easy to use.
Thanks
Kris
Hi Kris. It is very simple - I talk about it a little in my workshop tour, here - ua-cam.com/video/Ce_gMwIQQsk/v-deo.html - but yes, I have a video planned where I go into it in some more detail. Thanks! P
Thank, I'll look forward to it! Keep up the good work!
Simple sled works really well.
Yep, simple and effective😂
Will be making one this weekend, cheers Peter.
👍
I could take or leave the router sled - don’t get me wrong, the video is well made and informative, but I’m not sure I’d use it much.
The router guard on the cutting bit - that’s an elegant solution. And it’s so obvious (you know, once you figured it out and demonstrated). Nicely done!
👍👍
Just stumbled onto your video. The word here is simplicity. Well done my friend. Video is well shot, instructions are clear.
You earned a new subscriber.
Thanks, and welcome! I normally ask new subs to check out the back catalogue, but it looks like you’re already there 👍😀
Because it's so simple to make, a person is more likely to make it and use it. I plan on making one next time I do some doors.
Omg! The board clamped onto the router fence would've saved my last project! I was making a miter lock joint which worked perfectly with scrap but the actual material had a slight bow in it that I didn't know about until it was too late. Having that board clamped against the top as you have would've saved that piece. Anyway, im going to put something like that together for future faced down joints. Have you seen anything creative for routing items standing up?
Great simple design!
+Vince Arcuri Thanks!
Another great idea.
Thanks! And sorry, forgot to say ‘welcome’ earlier 👍👍
I'm using your "willfully stupid" around our shop and job sites. It's brilliant. I feel surrounded by them because I'm pretty sure I'm their leader. Rest assured that all my digits are intact and safety is extremely important to us.😃
😂👍👍
SLAP DASH! That's a new one for me. Might I use it?
Nice video!
Feel free! And thanks!
Glad to see you have not gone down the impact driver route for screwing [that sound bad, but you know what I mean], I dislike them intensely, far too fast, but then I am an old fart. You say that someone would have to be really stupid to put their hand on the router cutter with your guard in place, which is true, I am a Brit living in the US and I am almost certain you would find someone over here doing it!!
Thanks Robin! Yes, I had some time with a ‘rattler’ but I simply grew tired of the noise! They have their place, but for the vast majority of the work I do, a decent drill/driver does the same thing, relatively quietly. 👍👍
Great simple tool. I see all those fancy coping sleds. They take forever to set up and they don't truly work as well as your simple jig. Thanks for posting.
Jan Jensen Thanks! Simple and cheap - that's me 😀
Thats a very Nice sled. Thanks for the tip
Pleasure.👍
Harry
Wever
Yes. ?
Hello Peter. I'm a real fan of your videos. I wonder if you might consider doing a video on your router table which you seem to have made yourself? It would be good to know how to go about something similar. Thanks.
Hi Paul, and thanks! It's on my list as I'm planning on a rebuild before too long! 👍
nice simple jig 🙌 Peter
+nippychippy Thanks! Cheap, too 😂👍
Great videos, Peter! I notice in many you are often checking the position of your piece when wanting an overhead shot - you're looking up to check the image. Why not simply mark the "centre spot" on your worktop, so you can check without having to look away? Perhaps a large cross, or a small cross/dot with aligned marks a little further out (crosshair style)?
Thanks Stephen. The overhead camera isn’t fixed in position - it can cover the whole of the bench, so a mark of some kind on the bench centre wouldn’t be much help tbh. Also this is video #045 - I’ve done another 300-odd since this one, and I’m fairly sure I do it less these days! 😆👍👍
Just getting a DIY project started and I find I really enjoy working with wood. This vid is just what I need. BUT, one question I could do with your thoughts on. I am making shaker doors with a plywood panel. How would you suggest I cut the groove for the plywood. Problem is that it seems hard to find a router cut that matches the thickness of the plywood in the UK. 5mm feels too flimsy so I think I will try 9mm ply. I dont fancy MDF due to all the dust. Can you help me out?
I use a 1/4” grooving bit for a 6mm panel, 3/8” for a 9mm panel. Details on this video👍 Two Easy Doors - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html
Hi Peter, great video, as always 😊 and very useful and simple jig 👍👍
By the way, I’ve been searching on your site and UA-cam, and don’t find any video on building a router table. It would be great to take a look on how you’ve made the one we can see in This video. Do you have any video on that?
BTW, I like it that it seems simple, self made (fences, featherboard, guard…)
Thanks Ernesto! I haven’t done anything on the router table/bench, but I’ll be re-building that side of the workshop before toro long, and re-making that router bench. 👍👍
Real carpenter no waste money ,make it his tools with tools
👍
Hi Peter, really enjoy the videos, you seem to have the format just right. The router table you have, is the router simply screwed direct to the underside of the work bench, with no mounting plate?
Do you get any debris /dust falling beneath the table?
And what make router do you use please, it seems quite easy to adjust the depth when in situ?
Many thanks!
Hi Kelly. Yes, the router’s screwed through the bench top, though the top has been thickened up with layers of MDF to keep it as flat as possible. There’s a bit of dust and debris that gets through, but not too much, as long as I’m using dust collection on the fence. The router’s an older Triton, the big one - TRA001?? - the newer versions have a little dingus that lets you adjust it from the top, which would be even handier, but access is good below my bench so not an issue for me. I need to remake that bench, so keep your eyes peeled for a ‘router bench remake’ video before too long. 👍
Hi Peter, A very useful sled. I was wondering what is the point of sticking card in the area below the round knob? Cheers.
Thanks Will. It’s sandpaper, for grip. 👍
Hi, Peter.
Compared to a push block with a hook or board attached to the trailing edge to minimize splintering, it appears that this sled design requires the thickness of the base matches the thickness of the material being routed. Is that correct?
By the way, thanks for posting your videos. I appreciate your style of presentation.
+Kam Leo Thanks! And yes, this kind of sled needs to be matched to the material 👍
hi Peter. would you mind giving me the heads-up on a couple of things..
Do you find the ear buds you use as good as ear defenders? What brand do you use?
Any recommendations for clamps? (Finally buying some)
Router cutter you use for tenons.
thanks for your time.
+Anthony James Brown There's a full list of 'stuff I use' (with links) on my website - www.10minuteworkshop.com
I use Moldex in-ear earplugs on a band as they're very good, but if you're going to be up close to something very loud then I pull on my 3M Peltor 111s over-ear as they're the best I've found. I'll use just about any clamp, but I do like the Bessey Duoclamps as they're really easy to change from clamping to spreading. Pretty much all my router cutters come from Wealden tool - great to deal with and top quality. 👍
Great jig
+mriganka sinha Thanks! 👍
Hi peter, start off with saying great videos all of them, and any advice please I got myself a little work shop with post tools and power tools also (never have to many lol) some body asked me to make a bench? From any type of wood or reclaimed wood, how do i price it up? I know it depends what talent I have n how long it takes is that true? Thank you
+dan barrow Hi Dan. Pricing' always hard, especially at the beginning. Typically, you need to cost out the time it's likely to take,
plus materials; don't forget the time involved in prepping reclaimed wood, and don't forget the time taken to finish the piece as well (stain, varnish, whatever). Have a look around on 'Not on the high street' or Etsy and see if there's anything similar on sale there - if only as a guide to what other makers think their work is worth. HTH, and good luck! Peter
Great thanks, I'll be making one of those. Do the gloves you are wearing protect your hands from the machinery at all?
Thanks. There's a school of thought that you shouldn't wear gloves at all, that they could get caught and pull your hand into the machinery. I wear mine simply because MDF is quite a slippery material, and they give me a better grip.That's all. 👍
A quality piece of content, as always. What make of groove cutter are you using and what size is it?
Thanks! Links are in the video description 👍 I use a 1/4" heavy duty grooving bit from Wealden tool, with the appropriate arbor - Heavy duty groover - @t
Arbor for above - @t
Thanks Peter. Really appreciate that, and the videos.
Hi Peter, is there any chance you remember where you got the dust hose splitter from? Tia
Are, here you go:- Hose Y connector - amzn.to/2zFyu0K
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks!
"willfully stupid". I'll have tp remember that. That describes a lot of people now days unfortunately. 😂
Do you use a special double sided tape ? Might make one for the bandsaw
martkt10 I just use any strong double-sided; this one works well - Tesa double-sided tape - amzn.to/2qD7bEj 👍
Great , Thank you
Hi, is there any chance that you could make a video on the router and set up you use for the router table... thanks.
Hi! It's going to be changed in the New Year, so I'll be covering the re-build in a video - or two! 👍
when i was a kid we used to get the "sledge" out if it snowed not a "sled".
Me too, and if I went out today I’d be sledging, not sledding. But the thing that runs against a fence to keep the workpiece in line? That’s a sled, not a sledge. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop no,that guide thing is a bobjobbins.
Nice one Peter, thanks!
By request 😄👍
Very useful, Peter. Although I must admit, I couldn't enjoy this video to it's full potential as I kept getting the feeling your Bosch(?) router on that shelf in the top right there was going to fall off!?
Ah, the 'Weeblel' router shelf - they all wobble, but they never fall down 😂
nice
👍
At 2:45, when he countersinks the hole...I blew on my phone screw in a subconscious attempt to clear away the saw dust. 😆
😂👍
You are a handsome guy !!!
I forgot to add, what do you think of one where the wood piece can be changed out? That way it could be used again and again. Perhaps using screws in a location where they're not close to the cutter.
Yeah, could do. 👍