Every time I think of buying a tool, I check your videos first. Now saved enough money not buying clamping squares or parallel guides to invest in a decent band saw that will severe me well and expand my abilities. Thanks Peter 🙏🏽
Peter Thank you so Much for taking the time with your Explanations about the Square , Legendary . after watching all these videos I don't throw any scrap away at all anymore , ha ha ha got a stock pile of scrap wood
I am using the same style "clamping squares" made almost the same way. I don't have a bandsaw so I cut them on the table saw. Before the cut, I drill a 6 mm hole where the pencil marks intersect. This way I don't have to come back with a handsaw to finish the cut, also it can align better to the workpiece because debris doesn't build up in the inside corner.
Ádám Elekes great idea from you and Peter. I have a couple of the aluminum Woodpecker clamping brackets, designed with the same small round cut out on the inside corner as you suggest. I found out real quick how valuable these braces are, during a glue up, and how I needed so many more. This video has saved me a ton from a future Woodpecker purchase! Thank you both for the great tips!
@@jamaxit Hey James... if you are addicted to lovely lumps of red metal I can highly recco the BangGood corner clamps... an awful lot cheaper than Woody.
Its nice to see your square with us Peter ,i like to put a small round hole on the inside corner to see the lines on the inside ,well watching this i thought of your cabinet doors and thought ,"why doesn't Peter make wooden machinist squares " so will be watching for them ,now if i could just follow the strait line i drawled with the strait edge ..LOL
Like Adam, I also drill 6mm at the intersection, but my reason is that the clamping square doesn't get near the glue in the joint. A trick I learned building card models for the H) railway.. I also bevel the outside corner for the same reason.
I enjoy your videos. Always informative and entertaining. With regard to the checking of squareness I would the same base point after turning the square over. I find a'v' easier to see than whether or not lines are parallel or not. Missed this video the first time around.
In 1972 my father-in-law, a carpenter, gave me/us as a wedding present a Stanley hammer, a Stanley 1 metre aluminium girder section level and a Stanley carpenter's square, hardened steel, brass and cherry-wood. The hammer has survived, and always works pretty well for hitting things. The level had three "bubbles" which would never all show level at the same time, and the liquid disappeared a long while ago. It makes a good straight edge though. I relied on the square for many years of amateurish shelf and cupboard making, wondering why all my cuts were slightly out and a lot of sanding had to be done before things fitted. One day, I tried your flip-over trick and guess what ? My fancy Stanley carpenter's square wasn't square ! I tended to rely on pencil straight edge and geometry after that. Pythagoras v Stanley, winner Pythagoras. Anyway, just to say I enjoy your videos, it's so nice to hear someone speaking proper English clearly apart from anything else. I arrived here when seeking out a cheap and cheerful method of making small repeatable pieces to make up CD drawers and a cabinet for same, via advertisements for band-saws, track-saws, table-saws, jig-saws... First I have to cut strips off sheets of ply or mdf. I'll get there in the end...
@@10MinuteWorkshop Made myself an angle yesterday, but I jointed two pieces of wood. Using the open window while gluing up to force the pieces into square is always the hardest part. But I did pretty well with the help of my speed square. Best regards..
+Steve_SBT Hmm. That one was picked up today for return - wouldn't plunge more than 20mm before jamming! Going to be a slow-burning video, this one... 😕
Is that the 2nd one you've had? I'll have a chat to them when I get together with Triton at the Screwfix live show. I'll mention your issues and the fact mine is out of alignment also. Not great!
+Steve_SBT Yes, second one. FFX have been great, but don't want to replace it, basically, just refund. Be interested to hear what Triton have to say, if you get to bend someone's ear! 👍
Great little clamps. Thanks for showing how to make them. Life can be so easy..... :-) Congratulations with your 10K subscribers. 20K till the end of this year?
H Peter. Great channel. I have learned a lot. I was particularly interested in a comment that you made about 'cheap & Cheerful' clamps off eBay. I have a few clamps (not enough) and the cost of the longer ones is prohibitive for me. Can you explain a bit more about the ones that you have which 'do the job'
Hi Steve, and thanks! The basic f-clamps and sash clamps are like these ones:- Cheap sash clamp - amzn.to/2sTl7eq (US:amzn.to/2sVGKtV) F clamps - amzn.to/2tNCU2K (US:amzn.to/2rQHAZj) The aluminium sash clamps are showing their age after a couple of years - they’ve been used hard, to be fair - but the f-clamps are going strong and are some of my favourite clamps - they do the job, they’re cheap and light. As opposed to my Axminster parallel clamps, which do the job but are expensive and heavy.🤷♂️👍
Hi Peter Found this video as well. I’ll have ago making some of these at the weekend if I get time Have you got a video of the new up-to date ones where you can slide a clamp through them please mate ?
Thanks! First time I did those was on the ‘starting out in CNC’ series - towards the end, P9 or 10 I think. It’s just a 20mm hole drilled into the corner. 👍👍
Another great video. Glad I stumbled onto your channel. You don't seem to have any issues with blade drift on your bandsaw. My cheap ryobi is terrible at anything straight.
Very useful things to have, I should make some next time I have suitable offcuts. I notice you said they just fit in your bandsaw, if you put the fence on the other side of the blade you could have made them any size.
You are not alone, I have a bigger bandsaw and the number of times I have struggled to cut something when I could have just moved something around or flipped the workpiece would have made it so easy. Only realise after the fact though.
I am linking to this video in an upcomming build video of mine, where I make a timber rack, if that is ok for you? I put it in the video as a card, and the subject is that assembling the rack would have been a lot easier with some of these sqaures.
Great idea! It would have been good to check square on the inside cuts since those are where things are more likely to be off given they were band saw cuts.
+wstar72 As mentioned in reply to a previous comment, I needed to get the video shot and posted before the squares were fully finished, so yes, the insides were still a little lumpy from the bandsaw cut, so gave a slightly wobbly pencil line; square enough, but not as well finished as I'd like, is all. But they are now. Of course, you can use the outside of the square when clamping an internal corner just as easily 👍
I'm thinking of making an t slot table, but have found that t track seems to come in 3 or 4 different sizes, is there any difference. Love your work, any advice will be greatly appreciated
Hi & thanks! I’ve only ever come across 1/2” and 3/4” T-track; I bought some a little while back for a build, but have to confess I’ve never actually used it! Perhaps someone else add to the conversation??
Just subscribe, because I like your style. I'm looking for a small, and quiet bandsaw, what is the one you have and did you turn the sound down when you used it?
+Joseph Daley Welcome. Be sure to check out the back catalogue - I've done a couple of vids about that bandsaw, first one here:- ua-cam.com/video/GAmUi7qMDHg/v-deo.html That bandsaw was a cheapie from Aldi, might now be out of stock, something similar from Scheppah at screwfix - links to all these in the video description, or at 10minuteworkshop.com > stuff I use Yes, I typically drop the sound of all machinery used on video, but bandsaws aren't inherently noisy, usually most noise comes from making the cut. 👍
Simple but brilliant. Having spent $35 a piece on clamping squares from Woodpecker, my only question is why didn't I think of this? But that's what usually happens to me after watching your videos!
Hi Peter. Another "straight to the point" video. I Like your style. A question if you don't mind. Have you found a supplier of Baltic Birch that sells at a reasonable price?
+ian black Thanks! I get all my timber from a local yard - www.ajferguson.co.uk - who are excellent, and literally 5 minutes away from me. I pay around £60 inc. for a sheet of 18mm Birch; I could probably get it cheaper, but they're a great yard and extremely convenient 👍🍻
Thanks! Regular Staedtler Noris yellow & black HB school pencil, sharpened with an old-school (literally - they type the teacher was only allowed to use!) turn the handle type. I sharpen a *lot* of pencils and it works really well 👍
+Dave Geldart Sure, if I'm marking up stain/lacquer finished work, the harder the better. But the vast majority of my stuff is painted, so HB is fine 👍
Thanks! bandsaw is from Aldi, a rebadged scheppach. I’ve done a few videos about cheap bandsaws, as follows:- Bandsaw vids. #050, 057, (Aldi) 140, 141, 142 (Aldi vs Axminster)148, 149(Aldi, Axminster, Titan) Enjoy!
Hi Peter, thanks for your video. You used the inner square on the furniture, but did the parallel check on the outside square. What also would be interesting if it matters if the outside and inside squares are in parallel. And now to something completly different. Why are you using Festool Screwdriver/Drill? What is the advantage of that vs. a blue Bosch one? Thanks, and please continue to publish videos.
Hi Mark. Yep, that's true, I could have also used the outside of the square inside the cabinet, and often do, I just happened to have that clip handy! I didn't show /test the inside of the square as they were still less 'finished' than I would like when I shot the video, and the pencil lines were a bit 'wobbly' when I tried the 'flip test'. Checked against my engineering sqare it's well within my tolerances so I have no qualms about using them. Re the parallel inner/outer edges, I don't think it would make a difference, other than visually - which could be unsettling. I like the Festool drill/drivers as they're lightweight, have decent belt clips (the 10.8v) and battery inter-operability (all the others) and I do like the Festool Centrotec quick-change system - the smaller drills can feel a bit 'front-heavy' with a regular Jacobs-style chuck. I do have Blue Bosch for most of the 10.8v stuff (wide range) and have no issues with it, other than sounding like a sack of spanners, lol! Cheers, Peter 👍
"Square enough" lol! Seriously, I'd be fine with any slight convergence or splaying of the two lines for the general cabinet and wardrobe stuff I do - even for checking doors, they're usually trimmed and 'squared-up' afterwards, so no real issue with any small deviation from square. Funnily enough, I did check one of my original squares using the 'parallel lines' method, and it was quite a long way out from what I'd now consider acceptable, so I guess #squareenough is 'square enough' 😯😀
Peter Millard That's interesting Peter. Are you saying that you occasionally have to trim the doors to fit the carcass opening if it's not perfectly square?
+millieri No, other way round; it's not the end of the world if the doors don't glue up perfectly square as you can square them afterwards with a quick trim. Most guys I know who make doors in reasonable volume do this as a matter of routine - make the doors a couple of mm oversize and trim back 👍
Peter Millard Damn; wish I'd thought of that before! Just made my first batch of frame and panel doors using your video which is great. Unfortunately, they ended up a couple of mm out of square (despite what I thought to be thorough checks!). I ended up making a new batch 😩 So I guess any trims wouldn't show up on the rails and stiles too badly?
Well, we live & learn, eh? Yes, that's basically it - a couple of mm trimmed off an ~80mm rail or stile typically won't notice. I usually make doors the same size as the carcass they're going onto, then trim back to give the usual 1-2mm clearance 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter... Sadly they are not available here in California or on Amazon.com...:(... That said, I have some pals in the UK whose arms I can twist and get them to send me a pair. Keep up the good work Sir... Very informative and just the right length.. Refreshing ... :)
My guess is that your suspicion that shelves of the alcove unit were too close together, despite what the client wanted, means they need to be changed.
Well that's spooky. Am I being watched? I made a couple of sets of three from an offcut of 18mm ply, on my bandsaw, using the same technique, on Thursday night.
I noticed you checked the outside edge for true and all were square, brill. What about the inside edge that will ultimately butt up against the work piece??
Why do you have the fence on the right but set the depth of cut to the left of the blade? And why cut "inside" the saw at all, could you not cut almost arbitrarily large squares with the workpiece on the right (only limiting the "L" width to the 250 mm you mention)?
Thank you for a great video. I will make myself some of these clamping squares. Subbed! I found your channel through Keith Brown at Rag 'n' Bone Brown, by the way. I am learnng woodworking through youtube, and if you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and show some support.
I've just taken a look at the downdraft table #1- great project, look forwards to the rest! What's your name? I'll give you a shout-out on the Measuring Up Podcast I do 👍And, just FYI, there's no such thing as a 'tiny' channel - just one with lots of potential for growth! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wow! Thank you for the encouragement. My name is Goran Eliassen (a mouthfull in English, i know but the Scandinavian version of George). And the channel is ANomadsProjects. Looks like I found a woodworking podcast in the process ;-)
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you. I have some, but I try not to accumulate more than fits in my winder box. I bought the SARB033 and the Alpinist when they stopped producing them, but in the workshop I mainly wear the SKX009. Hehe. I feel like doing a wrist watch shot now :D
@@NomadMakes Nice! I have a few; back when I started getting interested in them the nice 1960s and early 70s ones were relatively affordable, but still more than I was prepared to pay. Missed opportunity! I've been trying to get a watch or two from each decade I've been breathing, but have given up on getting anything decent from the 60s (6105) so bought a 'tribute' watch last year, which is surprisingly nice. I have a couple from the 70s, 80s, 90, and 00s, in varying states of originality/condition. Have to confess my interest has dropped off a little after the SKX007, so maybe it's time to start looking for something from the 60s again... 😂👍
Nice work, but, as Birch Ply is the "Festool" of sheet materials, I cannot, in all honesty, give you a thumbs up this time. I will now get back to my MDF clamping squares...
Every time I think of buying a tool, I check your videos first. Now saved enough money not buying clamping squares or parallel guides to invest in a decent band saw that will severe me well and expand my abilities. Thanks Peter 🙏🏽
I gave this vid a thumbs up and it changed from 1.2k to 1.3k! I've waited for years for that to happen. There is a God after all.
Thank you! 👍👍
I clicked like at 1.5k and nothing changed :(
Being a bit new to UA-cam as I've said before Peter , your videos are so helpful, thank you so much.
Thanks David! 👍
Thank you, Peter. This is going to be something I do for the first time this weekend!
Cheers Chris! They’re handy little things, and quite fun to make them as accurately as you can👍👍
Peter Thank you so Much for taking the time with your Explanations about the Square , Legendary . after watching all these videos I don't throw any scrap away at all anymore , ha ha ha got a stock pile of scrap wood
Thanks! And good for you - wood’s too useful to throw away, not like it grows on trees or anything... 😂👍
Many thanks for such a good idea!
Always look forward to your videos. Thanks Peter.
+Bulwul 👍
Super handy tip!!!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Cheers
Just what the doctor ordered. Thanks Peter.
Thanks! 👍
Great stuff, I'm making a cabinet today so I'll be making some squares. Thanks for the great videos and tips much appreciated. Scott
+Scott Firth Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter another brilliant video
Steve
these are a must have.i've used them in just about every project.
+WV591 👍
Unbelievable,If only I had thought about making these when I built my Kitchen cabinet shaker style doors.Great Vid as usual Peter. “ liveand learn”
+Don Lunn Thanks! 👍
On my way to ali or bangood later today, I thought. And then I found this video..... Not spending cash today after all. :D Subscribed.
Thanks, and welcome!
Good video as always Peter. keep them coming!
Kind regards
Mike B
+Mike Bernard Thanka Mike 😄
Enjoyed this simple and effective tip.
+steve walker Thanks! 👍
great little idea. thank you for posting
+garry smythe Pleasure 👍
Great idea. Congratulations on reaching 10,000 subscribers.
+Paul Goess Thank you! Here's to the next 10,000... 😆👍
I am using the same style "clamping squares" made almost the same way. I don't have a bandsaw so I cut them on the table saw. Before the cut, I drill a 6 mm hole where the pencil marks intersect. This way I don't have to come back with a handsaw to finish the cut, also it can align better to the workpiece because debris doesn't build up in the inside corner.
+Ádám Elekes 👍
Ádám Elekes great idea from you and Peter. I have a couple of the aluminum Woodpecker clamping brackets, designed with the same small round cut out on the inside corner as you suggest. I found out real quick how valuable these braces are, during a glue up, and how I needed so many more. This video has saved me a ton from a future Woodpecker purchase! Thank you both for the great tips!
+James Landis Yep, great idea to drill the hole if you're making the inside cut on a table-saw - lets you clear the curve of the blade 👍
Aha....Always wondered why they have that little cut out. Obvious now that you've said it!
@@jamaxit Hey James... if you are addicted to lovely lumps of red metal I can highly recco the BangGood corner clamps... an awful lot cheaper than Woody.
Apply some paste wax to your squares makes it harder for glue and paint to stick to them .
Neat idea, these little tips are very useful, I never seem to think of them 😥
+DIYJase Thanks Jase. Takes practice 😂🍻
Very good.
Thank you very much for the great ideas.
+Cláudio Alvarez Botelho Pleasure 👍
Just to wish you congratulations on reaching 10,000 subscribers my friend ! Here's to the next ! Excellent work 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you! Was glued to the UA-cam app all day yesterday watching the numbers tick round... 😀👍
You are proof that hard work rarely goes unrewarded. A great example. 👍🏼
Its nice to see your square with us Peter ,i like to put a small round hole on the inside corner to see the lines on the inside ,well watching this i thought of your cabinet doors and thought ,"why doesn't Peter make wooden machinist squares " so will be watching for them ,now if i could just follow the strait line i drawled with the strait edge ..LOL
+syd ascott Thanks Syd! 👍
Clamping corners lol!But seriously one of the best woodworking channels here!All the best mate!
Thank you! 🙌
Like Adam, I also drill 6mm at the intersection, but my reason is that the clamping square doesn't get near the glue in the joint. A trick I learned building card models for the H) railway.. I also bevel the outside corner for the same reason.
I enjoy your videos. Always informative and entertaining. With regard to the checking of squareness I would the same base point after turning the square over. I find a'v' easier to see than whether or not lines are parallel or not. Missed this video the first time around.
loved the video, Thank you :)
Great idea
+JoshL 👍
Love your vid Peter - subbed your channel now.Regards from Bournemouth :)
Thanks! And welcome!👍👍
I making myself also.Good job.
+American woodworking tricks / Stolarskie Triki 👍thanks!
In 1972 my father-in-law, a carpenter, gave me/us as a wedding present a Stanley hammer, a Stanley 1 metre aluminium girder section level and a Stanley carpenter's square, hardened steel, brass and cherry-wood. The hammer has survived, and always works pretty well for hitting things. The level had three "bubbles" which would never all show level at the same time, and the liquid disappeared a long while ago. It makes a good straight edge though. I relied on the square for many years of amateurish shelf and cupboard making, wondering why all my cuts were slightly out and a lot of sanding had to be done before things fitted. One day, I tried your flip-over trick and guess what ? My fancy Stanley carpenter's square wasn't square ! I tended to rely on pencil straight edge and geometry after that. Pythagoras v Stanley, winner Pythagoras.
Anyway, just to say I enjoy your videos, it's so nice to hear someone speaking proper English clearly apart from anything else. I arrived here when seeking out a cheap and cheerful method of making small repeatable pieces to make up CD drawers and a cabinet for same, via advertisements for band-saws, track-saws, table-saws, jig-saws... First I have to cut strips off sheets of ply or mdf. I'll get there in the end...
Michael Hooker Great story Michael, thanks! I think I had that level and square at some point, too! Cheers, Peter 👍
Nice! I do the same! I have small like your and some of very big size
+Mirock's Woodshop 👍
+Mirock's Woodshop 👍
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙌👍
Nice one Peter.
Presuming the blade is in the centre of the table you could have the fence inboard which would allow you to make bigger squares.
+Rob Berry Yeah, thanks - figured that one out just after I'd shot the sequence, lol! 😂
great -- cool -- awesome -- well done
Thank you! Cheers!👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Made myself an angle yesterday, but I jointed two pieces of wood. Using the open window while gluing up to force the pieces into square is always the hardest part. But I did pretty well with the help of my speed square. Best regards..
Just discovered your channel(and subscribed) great idea...thank you...cheers rr
+Richard Rider Thanks - and welcome! Be sure to check out the back catalogue 👍
Will do, and thanks again...rr
OK Peter , gracias por sus videos
My pleasure - gracias por mirarlos (google translate, apologies if wrong!) 👍
OK subscribed now , greetings
Welcome 👍
Thanks, Peter, simple and very useful. I see Subscroptions 9.9k - fingers crossed.
+Stephen Shipley Pleasure! And yes - 9945 right now, if I make 10k by Monday midday, it'll be 10k in 10 months. Woot! 😆😄😀
I've gotta knock some of these up soon! Noticed you have your doweling machine back again!
+Steve_SBT Hmm. That one was picked up today for return - wouldn't plunge more than 20mm before jamming! Going to be a slow-burning video, this one... 😕
Is that the 2nd one you've had? I'll have a chat to them when I get together with Triton at the Screwfix live show. I'll mention your issues and the fact mine is out of alignment also. Not great!
+Steve_SBT Yes, second one. FFX have been great, but don't want to replace it, basically, just refund. Be interested to hear what Triton have to say, if you get to bend someone's ear! 👍
Great little clamps. Thanks for showing how to make them. Life can be so easy..... :-)
Congratulations with your 10K subscribers. 20K till the end of this year?
+Hans de Groot Thanks! 20k by the end of the year may be pushing it though! 😂🍻
H Peter. Great channel. I have learned a lot.
I was particularly interested in a comment that you made about 'cheap & Cheerful' clamps off eBay. I have a few clamps (not enough) and the cost of the longer ones is prohibitive for me. Can you explain a bit more about the ones that you have which 'do the job'
Hi Steve, and thanks! The basic f-clamps and sash clamps are like these ones:-
Cheap sash clamp - amzn.to/2sTl7eq (US:amzn.to/2sVGKtV)
F clamps - amzn.to/2tNCU2K (US:amzn.to/2rQHAZj)
The aluminium sash clamps are showing their age after a couple of years - they’ve been used hard, to be fair - but the f-clamps are going strong and are some of my favourite clamps - they do the job, they’re cheap and light. As opposed to my Axminster parallel clamps, which do the job but are expensive and heavy.🤷♂️👍
Hi Peter
Found this video as well. I’ll have ago making some of these at the weekend if I get time
Have you got a video of the new up-to date ones where you can slide a clamp through them please mate ?
Thanks! First time I did those was on the ‘starting out in CNC’ series - towards the end, P9 or 10 I think. It’s just a 20mm hole drilled into the corner. 👍👍
Another great video. Glad I stumbled onto your channel. You don't seem to have any issues with blade drift on your bandsaw. My cheap ryobi is terrible at anything straight.
Thanks! No, the cheap little Aldi/Scheppach bandsaw cuts really well, no issues with drift at all. 👍
Very useful things to have, I should make some next time I have suitable offcuts. I notice you said they just fit in your bandsaw, if you put the fence on the other side of the blade you could have made them any size.
Thanks - yes, I did realise after I'd shot this that I could have done that, lol! Too much going on - always! 😂👍
You are not alone, I have a bigger bandsaw and the number of times I have struggled to cut something when I could have just moved something around or flipped the workpiece would have made it so easy. Only realise after the fact though.
I am linking to this video in an upcomming build video of mine, where I make a timber rack, if that is ok for you? I put it in the video as a card, and the subject is that assembling the rack would have been a lot easier with some of these sqaures.
Hi Goran! Yes, of course, whatever you like! 👍👍
Soon 10k subscribers!
+Not my name on youtube Getting there - don't think I'll make it by Monday (10 month anniversary) though! 🤔
+Daniel Methot Never! Who were you again.. LOL! 😂😆👍
Great idea! It would have been good to check square on the inside cuts since those are where things are more likely to be off given they were band saw cuts.
+wstar72 As mentioned in reply to a previous comment, I needed to get the video shot and posted before the squares were fully finished, so yes, the insides were still a little lumpy from the bandsaw cut, so gave a slightly wobbly pencil line; square enough, but not as well finished as I'd like, is all. But they are now. Of course, you can use the outside of the square when clamping an internal corner just as easily 👍
Hi Peter - thank you for this and yes that end pencil test was impressive! I am after a little bansaw - would you recco that one? What is it? Cheers.
I don’t have that bandsaw any more, but it was OK for the money. There’s a playlist with all my bandsaw videos in it. 👍👍
I'm thinking of making an t slot table, but have found that t track seems to come in 3 or 4 different sizes, is there any difference. Love your work, any advice will be greatly appreciated
Hi & thanks! I’ve only ever come across 1/2” and 3/4” T-track; I bought some a little while back for a build, but have to confess I’ve never actually used it! Perhaps someone else add to the conversation??
Peter when are your next batch of “square enough” squares back on Etsy. Thanks.
Very soon - I'll be branding the next batch of larger squares tomorrow, all things being equal. 👍
Just subscribe, because I like your style. I'm looking for a small, and quiet bandsaw, what is the one you have and did you turn the sound down when you used it?
+Joseph Daley Welcome. Be sure to check out the back catalogue - I've done a couple of vids about that bandsaw, first one here:- ua-cam.com/video/GAmUi7qMDHg/v-deo.html That bandsaw was a cheapie from Aldi, might now be out of stock, something similar from Scheppah at screwfix - links to all these in the video description, or at 10minuteworkshop.com > stuff I use
Yes, I typically drop the sound of all machinery used on video, but bandsaws aren't inherently noisy, usually most noise comes from making the cut. 👍
Simple but brilliant. Having spent $35 a piece on clamping squares from Woodpecker, my only question is why didn't I think of this? But that's what usually happens to me after watching your videos!
+Preston Grace Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter. Another "straight to the point" video. I Like your style. A question if you don't mind. Have you found a supplier of Baltic Birch that sells at a reasonable price?
+ian black Thanks! I get all my timber from a local yard - www.ajferguson.co.uk - who are excellent, and literally 5 minutes away from me. I pay around £60 inc. for a sheet of 18mm Birch; I could probably get it cheaper, but they're a great yard and extremely convenient 👍🍻
Great Idea, like it!
Is the Triton Dowel jointer sat in the background the next Festool vs cheap tool? ;)
+AJIBBO Thanks! Hmmm - it will be if I can get one that works; just returned the second one... 😕
I just watched a series comparing a Mafell dowler to the Triton dowler. The Triton didn't come off very well. Thanks for your videos. Very enjoyable.
Yes, the Triton Doweller does seem to have a few issues, sadly. And thanks!
Is there any plan, in among all the useful stuff, to tell us the story of the number plate on the wall?
+David Clarke Not much of a story! It's the number plate from my first car, an Austin A40. Paid £125 for it in 1981 - I was robbed 😂😆👍
Great vid as usual. This might seem a trivial question, what type of pencil do you use, and how do you sharpen it
Thanks! Regular Staedtler Noris yellow & black HB school pencil, sharpened with an old-school (literally - they type the teacher was only allowed to use!) turn the handle type. I sharpen a *lot* of pencils and it works really well 👍
+Dave Geldart Sure, if I'm marking up stain/lacquer finished work, the harder the better. But the vast majority of my stuff is painted, so HB is fine 👍
Peter, great ideas, great presentation...what brand is your bench top band saw? any other recommendations? thanks in advance
Thanks! bandsaw is from Aldi, a rebadged scheppach. I’ve done a few videos about cheap bandsaws, as follows:- Bandsaw vids.
#050, 057, (Aldi) 140, 141, 142 (Aldi vs Axminster)148, 149(Aldi, Axminster, Titan) Enjoy!
Just to add - I've also put all these bandsaw videos together in a playlist 👍
Thanks again Peter, I appreciate the follow up
Hi Peter, thanks for your video.
You used the inner square on the furniture, but did the parallel check on the outside square.
What also would be interesting if it matters if the outside and inside squares are in parallel.
And now to something completly different. Why are you using Festool Screwdriver/Drill? What is the advantage of that vs. a blue Bosch one?
Thanks, and please continue to publish videos.
Hi Mark. Yep, that's true, I could have also used the outside of the square inside the cabinet, and often do, I just happened to have that clip handy! I didn't show /test the inside of the square as they were still less 'finished' than I would like when I shot the video, and the pencil lines were a bit 'wobbly' when I tried the 'flip test'. Checked against my engineering sqare it's well within my tolerances so I have no qualms about using them. Re the parallel inner/outer edges, I don't think it would make a difference, other than visually - which could be unsettling.
I like the Festool drill/drivers as they're lightweight, have decent belt clips (the 10.8v) and battery inter-operability (all the others) and I do like the Festool Centrotec quick-change system - the smaller drills can feel a bit 'front-heavy' with a regular Jacobs-style chuck. I do have Blue Bosch for most of the 10.8v stuff (wide range) and have no issues with it, other than sounding like a sack of spanners, lol! Cheers, Peter 👍
Good catch :)
That's excellent very helpful I'm just going to take my wheels off and check there round lol
"Nobody is more surprised than me..." You made my day ;-)) What type of tolerance is acceptable for you in the context of your daily job ?
"Square enough" lol! Seriously, I'd be fine with any slight convergence or splaying of the two lines for the general cabinet and wardrobe stuff I do - even for checking doors, they're usually trimmed and 'squared-up' afterwards, so no real issue with any small deviation from square. Funnily enough, I did check one of my original squares using the 'parallel lines' method, and it was quite a long way out from what I'd now consider acceptable, so I guess #squareenough is 'square enough' 😯😀
Peter Millard That's interesting Peter. Are you saying that you occasionally have to trim the doors to fit the carcass opening if it's not perfectly square?
+millieri No, other way round; it's not the end of the world if the doors don't glue up perfectly square as you can square them afterwards with a quick trim. Most guys I know who make doors in reasonable volume do this as a matter of routine - make the doors a couple of mm oversize and trim back 👍
Peter Millard Damn; wish I'd thought of that before!
Just made my first batch of frame and panel doors using your video which is great. Unfortunately, they ended up a couple of mm out of square (despite what I thought to be thorough checks!). I ended up making a new batch 😩 So I guess any trims wouldn't show up on the rails and stiles too badly?
Well, we live & learn, eh? Yes, that's basically it - a couple of mm trimmed off an ~80mm rail or stile typically won't notice. I usually make doors the same size as the carcass they're going onto, then trim back to give the usual 1-2mm clearance 👍
Hi Peter...
A quick non woodworking question... Where can I buy some trousers like the pair you are wearing in this video...😊
It comes up surprisingly often! You can get the from Amazon; TuffStuff Extreme 700 trousers - amzn.to/2oqeBpq 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter...
Sadly they are not available here in California or on Amazon.com...:(...
That said, I have some pals in the UK whose arms I can twist and get them to send me a pair.
Keep up the good work Sir... Very informative and just the right length.. Refreshing ... :)
Todo excelente, muy didáctico. Pero al trabajar con herramienta y equipo eléctrico, no debería usar el reloj de pulsera, como medida de seguridad.
how to seal MDF ?
My guess is that your suspicion that shelves of the alcove unit were too close together, despite what the client wanted, means they need to be changed.
No spoilers! But no, not that...
Well that's spooky. Am I being watched? I made a couple of sets of three from an offcut of 18mm ply, on my bandsaw, using the same technique, on Thursday night.
+David Foulds Even spookier - I shot this video on Thursday... 🤔👍
Peter Millard Odd. I also made some for the first time (out of mdf) on Thursday 👽👁👽
I have a perfect offcut to make a few of these, unfortunately it's also my square-testing board
😂
Matthew Buntyn bazinga
I noticed you checked the outside edge for true and all were square, brill. What about the inside edge that will ultimately butt up against the work piece??
Video 103 Square enough? ua-cam.com/video/Z8UhjDyBFks/v-deo.html
Why do you have the fence on the right but set the depth of cut to the left of the blade? And why cut "inside" the saw at all, could you not cut almost arbitrarily large squares with the workpiece on the right (only limiting the "L" width to the 250 mm you mention)?
Never mind: ua-cam.com/video/kf-jOFrWTXo/v-deo.html&lc=UgxZN9BLWoTPBqW6ONh4AaABAg
(there's an earlier comment about this and a reply from Peter, but it seems I can't link to that)
The question is.
How do you make them without a bandsaw?
It’s certainly harder - jigsaw maybe, if you can mount it on a rail? 🤷♂️👍
What about the insides? At the beginning of the video you had them on the outside of a cabinet, presumable to make sure it was all square.
+Andy P Check our the follow-up video:- ua-cam.com/video/Z8UhjDyBFks/v-deo.html 👍
Just to be clear, I wasn't finger wagging or suggesting you were trying it on, I was simply asking.
Andy P Sure, totally fine to ask a question 👍 The finger-wagging was from elsewhere, no worries 😉
i don't think my band-saw could cut anything nearly are square as you did!
👍👍
Have 7 "squares" of various types and only 1 is close to square. Moral of the tale is to avoid cheap squares.
+Alan Morris 👍
Surprised you used a mini bandsaw....notoriously inaccurate are they not?
It was the only bandsaw I had at the time, and no, it's actually very good.
Thank you for a great video. I will make myself some of these clamping squares. Subbed! I found your channel through Keith Brown at Rag 'n' Bone Brown, by the way.
I am learnng woodworking through youtube, and if you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and show some support.
I've just taken a look at the downdraft table #1- great project, look forwards to the rest! What's your name? I'll give you a shout-out on the Measuring Up Podcast I do 👍And, just FYI, there's no such thing as a 'tiny' channel - just one with lots of potential for growth! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wow! Thank you for the encouragement. My name is Goran Eliassen (a mouthfull in English, i know but the Scandinavian version of George). And the channel is ANomadsProjects. Looks like I found a woodworking podcast in the process ;-)
Also meant to say, nice watch, Goran; do you collect Seiko? 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you. I have some, but I try not to accumulate more than fits in my winder box. I bought the SARB033 and the Alpinist when they stopped producing them, but in the workshop I mainly wear the SKX009. Hehe. I feel like doing a wrist watch shot now :D
@@NomadMakes Nice! I have a few; back when I started getting interested in them the nice 1960s and early 70s ones were relatively affordable, but still more than I was prepared to pay. Missed opportunity! I've been trying to get a watch or two from each decade I've been breathing, but have given up on getting anything decent from the 60s (6105) so bought a 'tribute' watch last year, which is surprisingly nice. I have a couple from the 70s, 80s, 90, and 00s, in varying states of originality/condition. Have to confess my interest has dropped off a little after the SKX007, so maybe it's time to start looking for something from the 60s again... 😂👍
Nice work, but, as Birch Ply is the "Festool" of sheet materials, I cannot, in all honesty, give you a thumbs up this time.
I will now get back to my MDF clamping squares...
+Rudyard Kipling Oh, I have a few MDF ones as well, the Birch Ply ones just look better 😂