I had no idea that the low jet has all that effect. Awesome info. And btw... your products are very very very high quality AND they make the saws look meaner than factory. I've outfitted all my saws with your stuff, to the point I avoid looking on your website because I've spent too much money ha!!! I've also learned a lot of technique watching you and your guys falling trees and using wedges. I'm going to have much less trouble this year. Thanks much!!!
Gordy, thanks so much for your excellent content. I have learned so much valuable information from your videos from the bench, and even the ones when you are in the woods. You and Guilty of Treeson are rocking the 'net. Cheers... 8^)
Hi Gordy I've seen a few of your vids on rebuild and you always have OEM rebuild parts. What source do you use to acquire OEM Stihl replacement parts. Thanks for the tutorials!
@@mrtennessee6862 just starting to “burble”. Or if it’s really fat then your saw will die OR it’s not going to have as much power as it can. I’ve even had mine (when I started my self education) run “ok” and a had to use the dogs excessively hard to get it to “clean up” the engine running while cutting but doing so is VER hard on the bar and rails. I hope that cleared up some of your question.
@@ToddAdams1234 fat means a bit more fuel, is that correct? Also to get it fat turn out on what screw? I have a 066 it has a idle screw also. Thanks for your help
@@mrtennessee6862 to get it more “fat” on the high end you need to turn the jet that is furthest from the cylinder, no matter who’s saw it is. Same procedure with the low side. Do the low side 1st, get the low to its highest speed, then turn it out about 1/16th, then free rev the saw till it’s at highest RPM without burble, THEN turn out high screw until it “just” starts to burble. BUT when you do that you CAN’T stay in your cut long. If you stay in the cut long you’ll need to turn it out about 1/16 more. You’ll just need to tune it from there for YOU and your style of cutting. THAT is the #1 reason why you don’t loan a saw out to people, EVERYBODY cuts differently and you don’t want someone to trash your saw, because we feel bad enough when we do it to ourselves. Is that enough info?
Best Carb Adjustment Tutorial I have ever viewed on UA-cam.
I had no idea that the low jet has all that effect. Awesome info. And btw... your products are very very very high quality AND they make the saws look meaner than factory.
I've outfitted all my saws with your stuff, to the point I avoid looking on your website because I've spent too much money ha!!!
I've also learned a lot of technique watching you and your guys falling trees and using wedges. I'm going to have much less trouble this year. Thanks much!!!
Hell yeah Gordy! Been waiting for a you tube channel from west coast saw!
Gordy, thanks so much for your excellent content. I have learned so much valuable information from your videos from the bench, and even the ones when you are in the woods. You and Guilty of Treeson are rocking the 'net. Cheers... 8^)
Many thanks for sharing. Best video I’ve seen on carb adjustment.
The best 4 minutes on the UA-cam! 🥳
Thanks Gordy , that was a quick video stuffed with info.
This was great information. Thank you!
Good info!
Thank you:)
Good video an tips sir
Thank you.
Hi Gordy I've seen a few of your vids on rebuild and you always have OEM rebuild parts. What source do you use to acquire OEM Stihl replacement parts. Thanks for the tutorials!
Thanks
The newer Stihl saws don't have access to the high or low adjustments when everything is put together. How can you adjust these while they're running?
what do you mean with fire screen?
Spark arrestor
Great video, what do you mean by fat?
@@mrtennessee6862 just starting to “burble”. Or if it’s really fat then your saw will die OR it’s not going to have as much power as it can. I’ve even had mine (when I started my self education) run “ok” and a had to use the dogs excessively hard to get it to “clean up” the engine running while cutting but doing so is VER hard on the bar and rails. I hope that cleared up some of your question.
@@ToddAdams1234 fat means a bit more fuel, is that correct? Also to get it fat turn out on what screw? I have a 066 it has a idle screw also. Thanks for your help
@@mrtennessee6862 to get it more “fat” on the high end you need to turn the jet that is furthest from the cylinder, no matter who’s saw it is. Same procedure with the low side. Do the low side 1st, get the low to its highest speed, then turn it out about 1/16th, then free rev the saw till it’s at highest RPM without burble, THEN turn out high screw until it “just” starts to burble. BUT when you do that you CAN’T stay in your cut long. If you stay in the cut long you’ll need to turn it out about 1/16 more. You’ll just need to tune it from there for YOU and your style of cutting. THAT is the #1 reason why you don’t loan a saw out to people, EVERYBODY cuts differently and you don’t want someone to trash your saw, because we feel bad enough when we do it to ourselves.
Is that enough info?
what do you suggest for the idle screw?
Whatever makes the chain not spin on the bar with handbrake off