I was watching your Howard Hill style fiberglass longbow. Glue up. If you want to try this, drill a 1/4 hole in your form. Cut off a old 1/4 drill bit at the round end. This should be 1" long. You can place it on your form hole Not clued. Now drill each core wood in the center. When glueing . This stops your glas and core from sliding away. Now where you want set your riser. Drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep. This will stop your riser from slipping from wet glue. When done take it off the form and remove the pin. Fill that hole with epoxy. You will never see it with a leather grip. Hope you like it Jay I like your video
Thank you for watching, and for the advice! I’ve used this method on some other builds but not breaking through the backing. It’s a big help for sure… I think I just thought that the parts were too thin for it to work on this build, but I’m sure it would have worked just fine…
Ive been waiting for this !! woot woot! Im going to try to build one of these. I have a question? your belly lams are taperd ? if so , when you glue them up are you concerned about getting the tapered emds lined up so that they all match up ? do you match up at the tip or at the handle end ? or is the difference so minute it makes no disernable difference ?
@@doncampbell1961 you bring up a great observation… I think that best practice would be to run a parallel lam up the fades for the exact reason that you are questioning. In this build, I needed to achieve such a significant taper, that all the parts were going to have to play a role in that end, or go with another layer of laminations with all of them being thinner - I wanted to stick with 3. As for the alignment I went with trying to align the tips which would again favor a lower weight scenario. I actually don’t think it would make a significant enough difference with this bow though… I’m not concerned about the lower one pushing out of place like it did.
Thank you for watching! I have several bows available on my website at meadowlarkag.com. The link is also in the Bio of my channel page. I also offer natural materials for the bowyer and links to most of the tools you see in use on this channel. Come over and take a look!
@@jaygrow2750 it’s one I made myself. It’s my best recollection of a stringer I bought over 30 years ago. I made a build along video for it: Traditional bow stringer - a build along ua-cam.com/video/z-Z_A8f68wQ/v-deo.html
Hello sir, unrelated question sorry, i plan to make an english longbow out of "european beech" can you give me any advice, im aiming for 80+ pound draw at 32'' thanks
Thank you. Your expertise is very valuable and appreciated, I'm hoping to scratch build my own bow.
@@TheLittleworkshop glad to help!
Coming along nicely!
@@rushchaser so far, so good… I think it’s going to turn out nicely! The braced tiller is spot on right now.
I was watching your Howard Hill style fiberglass longbow. Glue up. If you want to try this, drill a 1/4 hole in your form. Cut off a old 1/4 drill bit at the round end. This should be 1" long. You can place it on your form hole Not clued. Now drill each core wood in the center. When glueing . This stops your glas and core from sliding away. Now where you want set your riser. Drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep. This will stop your riser from slipping from wet glue. When done take it off the form and remove the pin. Fill that hole with epoxy. You will never see it with a leather grip. Hope you like it Jay I like your video
Thank you for watching, and for the advice! I’ve used this method on some other builds but not breaking through the backing. It’s a big help for sure… I think I just thought that the parts were too thin for it to work on this build, but I’m sure it would have worked just fine…
Ive been waiting for this !! woot woot! Im going to try to build one of these. I have a question? your belly lams are taperd ? if so , when you glue them up are you concerned about getting the tapered emds lined up so that they all match up ? do you match up at the tip or at the handle end ? or is the difference so minute it makes no disernable difference ?
@@doncampbell1961 you bring up a great observation… I think that best practice would be to run a parallel lam up the fades for the exact reason that you are questioning. In this build, I needed to achieve such a significant taper, that all the parts were going to have to play a role in that end, or go with another layer of laminations with all of them being thinner - I wanted to stick with 3. As for the alignment I went with trying to align the tips which would again favor a lower weight scenario. I actually don’t think it would make a significant enough difference with this bow though… I’m not concerned about the lower one pushing out of place like it did.
Impressive! Any plans to sell these? Any info on any already on sale anyplace? Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching! I have several bows available on my website at meadowlarkag.com. The link is also in the Bio of my channel page. I also offer natural materials for the bowyer and links to most of the tools you see in use on this channel. Come over and take a look!
What make and brand is your bow stringer. It looks like it works well. Jay
@@jaygrow2750 it’s one I made myself. It’s my best recollection of a stringer I bought over 30 years ago. I made a build along video for it:
Traditional bow stringer - a build along
ua-cam.com/video/z-Z_A8f68wQ/v-deo.html
Hello sir, unrelated question sorry, i plan to make an english longbow out of "european beech" can you give me any advice, im aiming for 80+ pound draw at 32'' thanks
Remember that you can always shorten a bow, so my advice for a long-draw ELB would be to build it intentionally long at the start