Відео

@@VSci_ Thank you for watching!!! it is 64” NTN

@@meadowlarkadventuregear very nice! I'm building a 66" in the same style with an osage stave and bamboo backing. I have part of the shape heated in the osage (2-1/2" deflex, 2-1/2" reflex) and I'm starting on the recurves. When I go to glue it up, I'm hoping to pull it all into another 1/2" to 1" of perry but we'll see. The profile of your bow inspired mine, so thank you!

Remember that you can always shorten a bow, so my advice for a long-draw ELB would be to build it intentionally long at the start

@@rogermajsterski4728 Thank you for watching!!!

@@rushchaser so far, so good… I think it’s going to turn out nicely! The braced tiller is spot on right now.

Ok... first, you need to enter this process with the mindset that the bow is already in a condition that will relegate it to the rack - never to be shot or relied upon in the future. This understanding will grant you the freedom to do some pretty extreme things without fear of making it a bow that will be relegated to the rack - never to be shot or relied upon in the future. That having been said, I would start small and work my way up until it behaves. First, if the twist is mild, you can deepen the string nock on the offending side to try and bring the string back into alignment. If that works, then you can just taper the limb tip until the nock groove matches the others and you're done. If that doesn't do the trick, then I would, with the bow unstrung, take the twisted limb and put a clamp on the tip such that the weight of the clamp pulls against the twist. Then clamp the grip into a bench vice and hang some weight from the clamp at the tip forcing the limb into a significant twist opposite of the offending twist. Let it sit in this condition for several hours and then measure results. Use progressively more counter twist and length of time to get desired results... If that doesn't take care of the problem, follow the process above, but once it is under enough strain to pull the bow into a twist equal to about one and a half times the offending twist I would then apply mild heat to the limb where you suspect the twist is occurring. repeat this step with progressively greater counter twist, heat and duration until the twist is cured. You have to be very careful here as heat can compromise so many construction elements that you could be slowing ruining the bow - but it helps to remember that it was essentially already ruined before you started... Good luck!!!

@@doncampbell1961 you bring up a great observation… I think that best practice would be to run a parallel lam up the fades for the exact reason that you are questioning. In this build, I needed to achieve such a significant taper, that all the parts were going to have to play a role in that end, or go with another layer of laminations with all of them being thinner - I wanted to stick with 3. As for the alignment I went with trying to align the tips which would again favor a lower weight scenario. I actually don’t think it would make a significant enough difference with this bow though… I’m not concerned about the lower one pushing out of place like it did.

@@RedmanOutdoors366 Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the content!

@@VSci_ I can’t say for certain what the species is, but if I’m a betting man, I’d say Western Red Cedar. It’s dimensional lumber for fencing from a big-box home improvement store…

@@reddirtwoods thanks for watching! I’m glad it helped!

@@hartmutkleinjung9399 Thank you friend!!!

The nicest car in the driveway is the one that's paid off... but it ain't the BMW..! lol!

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 I like it too!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear I just got a block myself today in thr mail. Need pistol grips and a planer handle..nothing super sexy awesome like a bow

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 Paduk makes anything sexy! lol!

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 Paduk makes anything sexy! lol!

@@Helmbowman thanks man! It was born of necessity… lol!

That would be a wonderful idea!🤩😍🤩😍

I did procure enough Fiberglass to make 2 more bows...

@@georgehaydukeiii6396 hahaha!!! Clearly there is!!! But I still appreciate you watching to the end!!

@@mossback6026 should be a fun ride! Stay tuned!!!

@@samfulks4896Thank you for watching!

Thank you for your support!!!

@@RedmanOutdoors366 thanks for the support!

@@rushchaser Thank you!

@@knolltop314 you can say that again… lol!

@@musaadfelton3909 hope you enjoyed it!!!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear definitely, as always. 😁👍

Thank you! it did turn out pretty good!

I think it would be optimal at about a 29-30" draw.. but it does sling 'em!

I can totally appreciate the logic behind your assertion... At one time I believed the same thing, but I have learned from experience - where this bow de-laminated, a 2-piece bamboo back would have exploded outright... After suffering the same result several times, I suggest that your bamboo backing be one piece from end to end...

@@meadowlarkadventuregear I appreciate this response. Experience beats assumptions. So I guess I will have to take that advice for my next bow build lol because I have already started with the two piece instead of one long backing piece. But how can we ignore someone's advice who has experience. I mean your bows are awesome. So professional. Thank you for the advice from your experience.

@@musaadfelton3909 go for it! My experience is mine! lol! I have seen things work for other bowyers that I couldn’t do myself… and for a long time I pretty much broke everything I touched… could have been a bowyer problem and not a materials problem! lol!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear 🙂 a lesson greater than your Bowyer content, is your humility. It's admirable. Thank you 🙌

I completely agree with the construction method you describe, but even still, there will be irregularities when it comes to putting it all together. As far as PVA vs. Epoxy - Epoxy wins every time for several reasons, but primarily working time and gap-filling properties would tip the scales significantly in its direction for me.

@@christophertracey7201 Thank you for the feedback! I can’t even tell you how many bows I’ve abandoned in the past that could have been salvaged and turned into great bows! Running this channel has really challenged me in that I have to see my projects through to completion once I start filming the series. You’d think that I’d just make the bow to completion before making the videos, but I just haven’t been on that cadence from the very start… no real need to change now! lol!

@@Mwwright79 Thank you so much for watching, and the kind feedback!

@@RedmanOutdoors366 thank you!!!

based on what you are describing, you have a pretty severe hinge in that limb. I wouldn't be very optimistic about salvaging a bow damaged to such a degree... for starters, I'm not sure what you would be trying to accomplish with a heat treatment unless it's to try and straighten the fiberglass (which I haven't tried and don't believe that I have seen any information out there that would suggest that the method would work.) And secondly, you can't just salvage a severe hinge with heat. Lastly, if this damage occurred as a mode of regular use, then there is clearly a design or construction flaw in the bow... Heat and epoxy cannot fix those things. All that having been said... what are you going to do with it now? Doesn't even sound like it would look impressive hanging on the wall as decoration or in any part of a collection, so what do you have to lose in trying? If the damage isn't as bad as I'm envisioning, you may be pleasantly surprised with your repair. If it does't work - well, then you went down trying to fight the good fight. Either way the bow will eventually end up in the trash... I still would resist the use of heat, unless there is a very compelling reason coupled to success... Good luck!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear thanks!! I'll give it a try and at least it could be "hanging in the wall" worthy

Thank you so much for subscribing! As for your question, the answer depends entirely upon the quality of the grain in your bow stave. Typically, wood is stronger in tension than compression - which is the case with those that you mentioned, but the grain has to be in tact from tip to tip on the back of the bow. If there is any violation of wood fibers, then you will want to contemplate a backing to help ensure the tension safety of your bow. the degree of violation will dictate the type of backing necessary. A solid (wood or bamboo) backing will be required if the grain is severely violated, and even then, may not be enough. Minor violation accompanied by fear of any kind of failure would require a "Safety" backing like rawhide, or fiber backings. It never hurts to have a backing on a bow, but the absence of a backing, if possible, is your best bet.

@@rushchaser thanks for giving it a watch!

@@ianbruce6515 cutting the original tips off was a bit disarming, but they did turn out pretty nice!

First, thank you for watching! On about 95% of my builds, no matter what wood I’m using, I add an 8” riser block right in the middle. I make the fades very short to begin with so I can choose top/bottom limb orientation later - check out my video on grip layout for more info on this. The thickness of the riser block is usually about an inch. So that would be in addition to the thickness of the bow at the grip area. After that, I generally add a little more thickness 1/4” or so the fill out the palm area when I decide which side will be the grip.

Thank you for the kind words!!!

I’ve been in the habit of heat treating the belly lam ahead of construction. I’ve heat treated bamboo bellies during the tillering stage and found some lamination problems - mainly the edges of the bamboo thinning and curling up at the glue line where the heat treat was performed.

String follow in and of itself is not necessarily a bad thing - there are a host of bows that have deflex purposely put in them as part of the design. It’s compression that robs the bow of cast - that having been said, bamboo and wood do not behave the same. I’m still learning how to deal with bamboo in belly applications because the compression properties are very different from that of any wood I have encountered. Getting there though!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear oh I see. Makes sense yes. I'm here for all of it 🙂 I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and findings as you go along with your builds. So in this case. With regards to the poundage. How do you think the bamboo is holding up in compression strength after all of your builds so far? Why does those Japanese bows hold up so well and for years and they use the same method to make bows. Back and belly with a core laminate? I wonder if it's because they build longer bows so the strain on the bamboo is not that much 🤔

Thank you for following along!

Thank you!!!

Thank you for following along! And she does feel good in the hand! lol!

Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@@benspeedschannel888 Thank you for watching!

@@bienyamientoefy1923 Thank you my friend!

@@samfulks4896 Thanks for following along!

@@Mwwright79 let me start by saying, thank you for watching and for your feedback! Then I’d say that anything is possible, but my experience tells me that the working limb is way too short, and for that matter, too narrow for even the most compression resistant wood to survive let alone provide enough spring to match this bow’s current performance… if looking for something better in compression, then I’d say horn is the next logical natural material…

@@meadowlarkadventuregear That makes sense. Thank you!

@@Mwwright79 I’m running Olsen 3/8” 6 tpi typically. I’ve also run a Timberwolf 1/2” 4 tpi , but as you suspect it did rip up some bamboo on the long, flat surface cuts. I still used that blade for several bows and backings just cut well outside my pencil lines lol!

@@Mwwright79 Thank you for watching! And for the kind words…

@@rushchaser Thank you!