CAUTION: Two major issues with this video, both of these two issues were already pointed out before in the comments but if anyone only watches this video it can lead you to two very big mistakes. 1) Coat the new upper control arm bolts with ant-seize before installing. Coat the complete bolt. This will make a significant difference next time the bolt needs to be removed. 2) DO NOT torque your upper-inner bolts with the suspension hanging free, this WILL cause a premature failure of the bushings. Either replace the control arms one at a time (in the video when he says "don't torque", that is when you should torque) using the other one for locating the position, or if you leave them loose, you need to get the suspension back to ride height before you torque. These are pretty significant issues, enough that I'd recommend re making this video; FCP is doing the community a dis-service with the video as it is.
Yep. Agreed on both counts. If the original arms aren't in bad shape, you can line the new one up with the old one and then tq it down. It will be pretty much the same as measuring like the book says, or lowering to the ground under it's own weight (ride height) to tighten. He's in the land of salt (CT) so everything needs anti-seize. AND, if you raise the whole assembly a little bit, the control arms will line up better and slide into the holes on the steering knuckle. He didn't, which created a funky angle and needed to be hammered in. That can damage the plastic cup that the ball joint sits in. No Hammer!
Two things; First, use anti seize when reassembling. Next time you take it apart(there will be a next time) it'll be a breeze. Second, when you tighten the control arm bushings, the suspension must be at curb weight position. They are bonded rubber and prone to failure else wise. Great video! Thanks for posting!
After watching you guys doing this it makes me fell like I could do anything on the car because you make it look so easy and very detailed video and Mike is just the best.Keep up the good work.
I just did this today on my A6, thanks to this video. I skipped taking the shock/strut tower out, by cutting the bolt off of the forward upper control arm. I replaced the new bolt backwards (it doesn't matter, same length), and reassembled everything. I still have a "squeak"; I've replaced 3 of the 4 control arms, waiting on the lower front left one (forward) to arrive from Amazon. I might have forgotten to "curb weight" the lower rear one, but I will fix it when the other one arrives. All of my stuff was done with hand tools; I just did my CV boot a month ago (both outers), and then the squeak appeared (drivers side only). Glad this was so easy!
Easyer to cut the bolt, but if you have a well rusted and stuck one it's very hard to pull it out, limited access to hammer it down, so eventually you'll still have to take the strut out... As regarding the CV boots, was it hard to take them out?
When replacing the upper control arms the bolts should be put in from the opposite side, doing this means next time you won't need to remove the upper control arm mounting plate.. There are also two concealed 13 mm nuts for the struts that enable removal of the strut itself leaving the upper control arm mounting plate in position. There are two painted bungs covering them around the same area as the three mounting plate bolts.
If you soak that pinch bolt with penetrating oil, it will come out easier. Also, if you have air tools, use an open end wrench to pull on the bolt head while you use a impact swivel on your impact gun. It'll zip right out.
"Nicht iIn Unbelasteter Position Festziehen"...Do Not Tighten In Unloaded Position...these are labels on the set of control arms that I used to replace the tired arms in my '02 Passat...after over 380,000 km, it was time...!!! ...I used an air chisel, BFH, punches/drifts, & an oxy/acetylene torch to get the right side upper arms free from the spindle...about 90 minutes of serious coercing...I was using a hoist at work (Tooyota Dealership) after hours, and had access to a shop full of professional tools...the left side only took about fifteen minutes to remove the upper pinch bolt from the spindle; but on a Passat, one of the strut cap bolts is obscured by the cables going to the ECU, (so that has to be carefully removed and set aside)...in the event that you would like to see how much fun I had replacing front struts, all 8 control arms & the two sway bar end links; I posted my efforts on the Vortex in my thread...forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6975223-Like-It-Or-Not-I-Own-A-PASSAT-!!!&p=88250505#post88250505, posts 79-91...anti-seize compound was created for a reason...use it...!!!
i just tried to take on this job but for some reason i cant remove the strut mount its sitting firm on the front lower control arm how do i go about getting it off to complete this task??
question the pinch bolt on the upper joint once that nut is loose if you spread the fitting with a chisel before you drive the bolt out would that be easier since the torque of tightening it probably distorts it and make the bolt very hard to knock out
Don't the control arms have specified height they need to be tighten at? Forward and rearward both have their own set positions to not affect ride height. Also did anything get torque to proper spec or that's not important.. .
Should suspension not be loaded before tightening up the control arm inner bolts? otherwise your bushing would be constantly under torsion when sitting on wheels, thus premature wear.
After few weeks when i did this, one of the arm nearly half way out.... why? i'v putted new bolt.. thanks P.S. mine is a4 but it's same suspension as here
I would assume you need to preload the suspension before tightening the pinch bolt at the top of the spindle, it's a common problem. If you have done this and this still persists I would think you're not tightening the pinch bolt to the proper Torque, and would suggest replacing the bolt with a new one before trying again.
It could be worn bushings in the control arms or it may be coming from the front upper strut mounts. You'll want to check the bushings and mounts for signs of deterioration.
That's because in the video it's wrong! You've always have to bring up the whole suspension assembly as would be like the car sits on the ground! Not with the suspension hanging down, you tighten the bolts... Then when you put the car down, for a while car stays higher until new bushings are going bad... I would say a couple of days, but bushings are gone, you need to replace them again.
Thanks for another great Video... my son is going to save about $600. :-) I am assuming that this is very similar or not the same for an Audi A4 B7.... Thanks
I admittedly did not watch with volume (class), but don't you have to have the vehicle at ride height (wheels on the ground or an alternative measure) when torquing the lower or upper control arms? In the video, it appears you torque both sets at "hanging" or extended height, causing constant stress on the bushings. Did I miss something? And what's your opinion of not torquing uppers and lowers on both sides, putting the tires on, then lowering the car to the ground and let it settle at ride height and then torque it? I've realized I can reach all necessary bolts even with tires on. Thanks! (I have a 2006 A4 2WD Base, which looks identical to this).
You're actually right, we didn't show it in the video but torquing at ride height is always smart. You may be able to do it with the tires on, but normally people will jack the wheel hub up until the car lifts off some jack stands, that puts the control arms in the same position, but leaves the entire well open. Hope that helps!
CAUTION:
Two major issues with this video, both of these two issues were already pointed out before in the comments but if anyone only watches this video it can lead you to two very big mistakes.
1) Coat the new upper control arm bolts with ant-seize before installing. Coat the complete bolt. This will make a significant difference next time the bolt needs to be removed.
2) DO NOT torque your upper-inner bolts with the suspension hanging free, this WILL cause a premature failure of the bushings. Either replace the control arms one at a time (in the video when he says "don't torque", that is when you should torque) using the other one for locating the position, or if you leave them loose, you need to get the suspension back to ride height before you torque.
These are pretty significant issues, enough that I'd recommend re making this video; FCP is doing the community a dis-service with the video as it is.
Yep, that's what I've thought... Just another mechanic who doesn't understand the basic rules of the physics.
Also, from the official Audi maintenance guide:
"Do not attempt to enlarge slots in wheel bearing housing using a chisel or similar."
Yep. Agreed on both counts. If the original arms aren't in bad shape, you can line the new one up with the old one and then tq it down. It will be pretty much the same as measuring like the book says, or lowering to the ground under it's own weight (ride height) to tighten. He's in the land of salt (CT) so everything needs anti-seize.
AND, if you raise the whole assembly a little bit, the control arms will line up better and slide into the holes on the steering knuckle. He didn't, which created a funky angle and needed to be hammered in. That can damage the plastic cup that the ball joint sits in. No Hammer!
I'm late to the party, but yes exactly that, for air ride suspension you set up at the lowest ride position, as that would be for daily drive.
Two things; First, use anti seize when reassembling. Next time you take it apart(there will be a next time) it'll be a breeze. Second, when you tighten the control arm bushings, the suspension must be at curb weight position. They are bonded rubber and prone to failure else wise. Great video! Thanks for posting!
After watching you guys doing this it makes me fell like I could do anything on the car because you make it look so easy and very detailed video and Mike is just the best.Keep up the good work.
I just did this today on my A6, thanks to this video. I skipped taking the shock/strut tower out, by cutting the bolt off of the forward upper control arm. I replaced the new bolt backwards (it doesn't matter, same length), and reassembled everything. I still have a "squeak"; I've replaced 3 of the 4 control arms, waiting on the lower front left one (forward) to arrive from Amazon. I might have forgotten to "curb weight" the lower rear one, but I will fix it when the other one arrives. All of my stuff was done with hand tools; I just did my CV boot a month ago (both outers), and then the squeak appeared (drivers side only). Glad this was so easy!
Easyer to cut the bolt, but if you have a well rusted and stuck one it's very hard to pull it out, limited access to hammer it down, so eventually you'll still have to take the strut out... As regarding the CV boots, was it hard to take them out?
When replacing the upper control arms the bolts should be put in from the opposite side, doing this means next time you won't need to remove the upper control arm mounting plate..
There are also two concealed 13 mm nuts for the struts that enable removal of the strut itself leaving the upper control arm mounting plate in position. There are two painted bungs covering them around the same area as the three mounting plate bolts.
If you soak that pinch bolt with penetrating oil, it will come out easier. Also, if you have air tools, use an open end wrench to pull on the bolt head while you use a impact swivel on your impact gun. It'll zip right out.
"Nicht iIn Unbelasteter Position Festziehen"...Do Not Tighten In Unloaded Position...these are labels on the set of control arms that I used to replace the tired arms in my '02 Passat...after over 380,000 km, it was time...!!! ...I used an air chisel, BFH, punches/drifts, & an oxy/acetylene torch to get the right side upper arms free from the spindle...about 90 minutes of serious coercing...I was using a hoist at work (Tooyota Dealership) after hours, and had access to a shop full of professional tools...the left side only took about fifteen minutes to remove the upper pinch bolt from the spindle; but on a Passat, one of the strut cap bolts is obscured by the cables going to the ECU, (so that has to be carefully removed and set aside)...in the event that you would like to see how much fun I had replacing front struts, all 8 control arms & the two sway bar end links; I posted my efforts on the Vortex in my thread...forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6975223-Like-It-Or-Not-I-Own-A-PASSAT-!!!&p=88250505#post88250505, posts 79-91...anti-seize compound was created for a reason...use it...!!!
I just changed the upper and lower control arms. It was very easy. This video was perfect for getting it done.
@mamaboy9580 We were able to slide the shock assembly out without lowering the lower control arm, but it is a tight squeeze.
Yes, you should always get an alignment after replacing your control arms.
I'll be doing this on my Audi A8 now.. Thanks for the education
Agreed. The control arms should have been tightened at ride height.
Great video. Lots of detail and explanation of the how and why. Just wish I had air gun and car lift!!
txnks for saying bolt/nuts sizes. rly helps then writing paper
Hey guys it would be nice to see some videos on audi d4 a8 models... PLEASE!!!
i just tried to take on this job but for some reason i cant remove the strut mount its sitting firm on the front lower control arm how do i go about getting it off to complete this task??
question the pinch bolt on the upper joint once that nut is loose if you spread the fitting with a chisel before you drive the bolt out would that be easier since the torque of tightening it probably distorts it and make the bolt very hard to knock out
Yes, that could work. You can also try pre-loading the suspension to remove some of the tension on the bolt.
Thank you a million times for doing this vide, do you know what, if any are the torque specs for the bolts and all???? GOD BLESS all....
Have you ever done pcv on a 3.0 before do you think you could make a video on that?
Great job.
Very helpful thanks , keep it up.
Impact driver highly recommended.
Don't the control arms have specified height they need to be tighten at? Forward and rearward both have their own set positions to not affect ride height. Also did anything get torque to proper spec or that's not important.. .
Tony Atin
your right he missed that part. Jack up the suspension underload and tighten.
Should have put some anti seize on that bolt. It will help down the road if this job needs to be done again
Thank you man
2005 audi A6 I bought the car and navigation say not activate and my radio don't work .any idea what it can be
Should suspension not be loaded before tightening up the control arm inner bolts? otherwise your bushing would be constantly under torsion when sitting on wheels, thus premature wear.
indeed. I deleted that part and put in an addendum video. rookie mistake
do you have to lower the lower control arm?
After few weeks when i did this, one of the arm nearly half way out.... why? i'v putted new bolt.. thanks
P.S. mine is a4 but it's same suspension as here
I would assume you need to preload the suspension before tightening the pinch bolt at the top of the spindle, it's a common problem. If you have done this and this still persists I would think you're not tightening the pinch bolt to the proper Torque, and would suggest replacing the bolt with a new one before trying again.
FCP Euro thanks will try.
very good vid!
Great job mike.
Loving it, sub'ed.
I have a 2005 audi a6 it make a clang clang noise when I hit a bump on the driver side what can it be thanks
It could be worn bushings in the control arms or it may be coming from the front upper strut mounts. You'll want to check the bushings and mounts for signs of deterioration.
+FCP Euro thanks ill have it checked out
i replaced both sides, upper and lower and after I did this, my car sits about an inch and a half higher, why is that?
Its possible that it could take sometime for the suspension to settle. Your suspension should also be preloaded while installing the new control arms.
That's because in the video it's wrong! You've always have to bring up the whole suspension assembly as would be like the car sits on the ground! Not with the suspension hanging down, you tighten the bolts... Then when you put the car down, for a while car stays higher until new bushings are going bad... I would say a couple of days, but bushings are gone, you need to replace them again.
you rock!!!
Why does an outback have no upper control arms??
Thanks for another great Video... my son is going to save about $600. :-) I am assuming that this is very similar or not the same for an Audi A4 B7.... Thanks
I admittedly did not watch with volume (class), but don't you have to have the vehicle at ride height (wheels on the ground or an alternative measure) when torquing the lower or upper control arms? In the video, it appears you torque both sets at "hanging" or extended height, causing constant stress on the bushings. Did I miss something? And what's your opinion of not torquing uppers and lowers on both sides, putting the tires on, then lowering the car to the ground and let it settle at ride height and then torque it? I've realized I can reach all necessary bolts even with tires on. Thanks! (I have a 2006 A4 2WD Base, which looks identical to this).
You're actually right, we didn't show it in the video but torquing at ride height is always smart. You may be able to do it with the tires on, but normally people will jack the wheel hub up until the car lifts off some jack stands, that puts the control arms in the same position, but leaves the entire well open. Hope that helps!
FCP Euro Really appreciate the quick reply and helpful information! I'm using the video right now to put mine on. Thanks!
Have you ever done pcv on a 3.0 before do you think you could make a video on that?