What a concept! You're creating an involute with the base circle glued to the gear and offsetting the amount to put the saw blade at the right place. As soon as the weather warms up to above freezing so the lights will go on in my garage (my propane heater can't even keep up with temperature in the teens) I'm going to try this. I have figured out the offset from Solidworks. You get idea credit for every gear that I make. Thanks.
Excellent! I don't have a band saw and I don't have a scroll saw, but I do have a table saw. - This is the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much!
I was in the throes of designing my own system, which, although using drill-bits, amounts to a similar system to yours, except yours is much more efficient than mine would be. Thanks for saving me loads of thinking, time and effort Steve.
This is great! You're cutting a true involute tooth profile rather than just approximating one like all the other wood gear UA-cam videos! Now all we need is a program or an app or a spreadsheet that calculates rolling circle diameters (I guess that would just be the pitch circle) and pencil mark locations for other gear sizes.
Great,I was hoping for a detailed video.I bought your plans,but didn't have time,or the wit to understand the idea,this makes it much more clear. I was going to make some cogs that didn't really do anything useful,then realized I've been looking for a microscope rack an pinion stand,so actually have a use for this technique.
Steve, I am building a rope making machine and I wanted gears to make it smooth. Your video is tops in making that happen. You are really good. Sounds like you had a cold. Hope you are better now. Thanks a mil Gene
Thanks Gene. I have had trouble with my sinuses most of my life and at the time I was completely stopped up. I have had thoughts of building a rope making machine before, but haven't gotten around to it. That would be a good use for wood gears.
This is the EASY button for developing gear teeth. Thanks. The disk could be finished round with the saw instead if the sander with the same mechanism mounted to your cross-wise saw fence.
The tooth profile generated is only down to the pitch circle. It must be cut deeper to give space for the profile of the other gear tooth. Otherwise the two pitch circles will not coincide. The speed ratio remains the same but the center to center will not be as predicted as the total of the index radii.
True. The tooth profile of an involute gear with a small number of teeth inside the pitch circle is a radial line segment. My method makes a slight undercut inside the pitch circle on gears with a small tooth count, but that's okay because they are wood after all, and shouldn't be used for things other than low power applications. Involute gears also allow a little bit of deviation in distance between centers.
I am making an attachment to my home made box joint jig to make these gears. I was watching the video and it hit me that perhaps....... perhaps mind you ........ that a dado blade might cut down on the number of cuts and still retain the shape of the tooth. the width of the dado would be the width of the bottom cut. I guess there is no way getting around needing a rolling measurement wheel for every different sized gear. subscribed and watching for new ideas.
Thanks. I found that it works best for the blade to cut the tooth profile as it enters the gear blank rather than as it exits. This way the portion of the saw teeth doing the cutting is on the edge of the blade instead of the side. Yes, the measurement wheel needs to be for a specific size gear, that's what makes it work. If you're making several different size gears, you can start with the biggest and then make the wheel smaller for the next smaller gear.
You can of course make a pin, so that you'll get an accurate distance between the teeth. (Hmm, we'll probably see the next reply to this post in a year from my posting). =)
Yes, dowel pins can be placed between teeth to check dimensions. I just draw the pitch circle on the gear and use calipers. The accuracy of my method relies on being able to line up a pair of marks, and is called, "vernier acuity". Older machinists used vernier calipers instead of dial or digital types. Those are better because they're not affected by chips on a tiny gear rack, or low or dead batteries.
Hi steve, I saw you idea on making beads on a sander and with a drill..... nice idea That didn't too impress me tho. What impressed me was the hymn, COME AND DINE..... Baptist??
Steve, this is brilliant. A like the shape of the teeth when the saw cuts it from both side. Two questions. Is the index wheel a specific size compared with the wheel that becomes the gear? It looks like it should be the size of the gear measured to the bottom of the gear wheels teeth? That diameter. Also, I have looked at the video a number of times and can't quite see how you get the two sets of index marks that are used to cut the teeth sides. Could you please elaborate? Thank you.
So, to make the helical ones you just angle the fence around the z axis when you cut them? What happens if you angle the x and y axes, a helical bevel gear?
This is very clever. I was wondering if you had considered morphing it with the box joint jig Matthias Wandel made / invented so you can cut the slots more quickly and easily? Thanks for your clever ideas and video. Cheers, David.
Thanks! No, the gear wouldn't be able to roll over the blade to cut the involute profile if it were clamped down. Cutting the middle of each gap before the profile cut does not require as much precision as the profile cuts, so this is adequate - and fast and easy enough. It's not my style to use someone else's jig as part of my invention. Cheers, Steve.
The wheel with the spacing marks is separate from the gear and can be used over and over. It is quick and easy to line those marks up with the mark on the fence.
@@Steve.Garrison Yes I know that but what I am saying is that wheel with the marks can only really be used with that size gear and teeth. You would have to make them for each gear size. I have seen your work and know you can make an adjustable gear maker. Kinda like the box finger joint sled Mathias made. I am just you can do it. How did you make the curtain gears 6:23. That was awesome. Do you have a video of that. Oh I forgot to mention that gear maker is very nice.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Thanks! Yes, each wheel is for one size gear only. Something like you are talking about could probably work, but I just haven't had the need for it, and it would probably take more time designing, building, and perfecting it than the time saved using it. I like to keep things simple if I can without introducing cumulative error. The gears for the window blind were made the same way as the straight-cut gears except the fence is turned at an angle to the blade instead of 90°. The resulting helical gears have a very nice twisting compound curve tooth profiles. I wish I had video of that when I was making it. Also, a helical gear with the same number of teeth and diametral pitch as a straight-cut gear will have a larger diameter. I use the same formulas that engineers do. I have seen his box-joint jig, and it is pretty cool. I have my own way of making box joints that is different though.
Steve Garrison I normally just use a band saw to cut out gears when I need them, but your method looks much easier. Especially if I needed to make multiple gears of the same size. The smallest gear for my project is a little over an inch in diameter, but has 10 teeth. Tedious work on the bandsaw.
You sir are a genius! I have been pondering how to make gears. I didn't want to use mathias wandels program because I like to understand stuff myself rather than using somebody else's pattern, and also am more of a paper and pencil designer than cad. I was thinking/wondering if you could use a dado blade and one continuous roll, rather than the two cuts on different marks.
(Although the message is 7 years old...) I don't think it would work, because the blade does not cut on its side so it won't cut the second part of the gear on its way up.
Great idea and great job. My question is about the 28 teeth, that is 12.8571 degrees? That would be very difficult to put the marks on the wood. How did you do that? Cad and template?
I made a circle dividing jig that divides the circumference. It is very accurate and does not have cumulative error. You could use cad to make a template, but if you drill the center hole a little off center in relation to the pattern there will be error - not a good method. My method uses the center hole (which is drilled before the index marks are drawn) as a reference point so the marks are perfectly spaced. The jig is described in my eBook.
Steve Garrison If you enjoy building jigs and what woodworker doesn't? Kick it up a notch. Using hardwood stock make up a similar concept powered by a router either locked and the stock moves or reverse. Nice maple sliding table would be cool. I have never seen a gear tooth profile router bit so this rocking motion cut is the solution
Thank you. It is a little bit slower initially than whipping one out band-sawwing around a paper pattern, but it's also a lot more accurate. The tooth profile is a true involute specific to the tooth count, AND the tooth spacing is based upon the actual location of the drilled center hole. Using a glued-on pattern, you only get one shot at centering the hole perfectly. If you're not concentric you will have a tight spot on each gear, and end up fiddling around making more backlash on all the teeth to get your gear train to finally run smooth.
I like that this can be done on the table saw as I don't have a band saw, this has given me the idea of a modified jig could be used to cut the printouts from the woodgears generator on a table saw.
Not a great comparison, with pegs on the fence and slots on the template this method is way easier once it's set up. You could do a dozen gears in an hour. Mattias' generator is perfect for a single gear, as long as you're a wizard with the bandsaw. So it depends on what you're doing, and who you are. Not to mention tablesaws are ubiquitous whereas bandsaws, not so much.
Steve Garrison That's phenomenal. As a mathematician, I find that very impressive. Is that 0 degree pressure angle (vertical line of contact)? I'm about to cut a 31 inch diameter flywheel with 61 teeth and a pinion with 14 teeth (notice that are coprime numbers, just like in the auto industry). Since it's a foot powered machine, vertical line of contact would be fine for me. Actually, the diameter of the template disc controls the pressure angle now that I think about it. This is very good!!!
Edward Solomon Thank you. Modern gears usually have a 20° pressure angle, but 14.5° was common in the past. The gears I made in this video have a 20° pressure angle.
Steve Garrison I'm making a machine now (with woodengears) with 1/4096 gear reduction that can turn a disc and move a router bit along the line of action simultaneously (it actually moves a plane over the router the opposite direction). I'll e-mail you when I finish it. I achieve the 1/4096 reduction with overlapping sets of 1:4 gear ratios. A custom gear will be cut to moderate to properly synchronize the movement of the plane (rack gear driven) and the rotation of the disc. Thanks for the inspiration! I found the video: "Fellows Gear shaper the art of Generating Gears (Part 2/4)" combined with your video to be extremely informative.
This is very ingenious! I think I can make the jig but am unsure of one thing. Do you actually work from the other side (normal side) of the saw table? I see the caption that says "operator works from behind the saw". Can you elaborate on why? Is it to prevent having chips thrown at you, maybe? Great work! Thanks!!
It works for any diameter that is big enough to handle safely, or larger. Smallest I have made was about 1.25" or 3.2cm diameter. Largest I have made was 16" (40.6cm). Blade thickness dictates minimum pitch.
HI MAN YOUR JOB IS BEAUTIFUL, BUT IS POSSIBLE TO EXPLAIN STEP Step how to glue the pieces, because i do not understand how to make the curve in the snail. Thank you and nice woodwork.
It is similar to that. A gear hobb cutter has teeth with sides that are shaped to match the involute profile. My setup cuts the involute profile utilizing the geometry of the gear blank rolling over the straight-sided blade rather than a specially shaped cutter.
@@Steve.Garrison I know exactly how gear hobbers work because I cut gears for a living. What you're doing is generating the involute with a single point tool instead of a more complicated tool geometry. But whether you are using a hob, or a saw blade, it's still a generational process as you are rolling the gear through the cutter to create the tooth form instead of say using a shaped cutter or tracing the line of a pattern with a scroll saw. The only difference being that where a hobber can only generate teeth on a cylindrical part your process can generate teeth in oddly shaped parts like ovals and ellipses. Have you ever tried your process on spiral curves?
The more videos like this I watch the more I realize there are a lot of people out there that are a lot smarter than I am. Good job!
What a concept! You're creating an involute with the base circle glued to the gear and offsetting the amount to put the saw blade at the right place. As soon as the weather warms up to above freezing so the lights will go on in my garage (my propane heater can't even keep up with temperature in the teens) I'm going to try this. I have figured out the offset from Solidworks. You get idea credit for every gear that I make. Thanks.
Very clever, and a time saver compared to filing what remains from a wobbly band saw cut gear. Looks very precise too. Excellent!
Excellent! I don't have a band saw and I don't have a scroll saw, but I do have a table saw. - This is the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much!
Quite ingenious sir. I am continually astounded at the creative skills and abilities some people are gifted with!
I was in the throes of designing my own system, which, although using drill-bits, amounts to a similar system to yours, except yours is much more efficient than mine would be. Thanks for saving me loads of thinking, time and effort Steve.
I'm glad it helped you, Ziggy.
I have been searching so long for good gear cutting. Now I'm home . Thanks !
You're welcome!
Very clever! Similar to the wire-wrap method for cutting gears on a metal shaper.
This is great! You're cutting a true involute tooth profile rather than just approximating one like all the other wood gear UA-cam videos!
Now all we need is a program or an app or a spreadsheet that calculates rolling circle diameters (I guess that would just be the pitch circle) and pencil mark locations for other gear sizes.
Thanks! Yes, it's a true involute profile. I sell the dimension calculator spreadsheet along with plans for necessary jig to layout the markings.
I really think this is a great idea. Thank you for taking the time to share. Thumbs up!
Intelligent, simple et concept très efficace. I love it. Bravo Steve. Thanks.
Great,I was hoping for a detailed video.I bought your plans,but didn't have time,or the wit to understand the idea,this makes it much more clear.
I was going to make some cogs that didn't really do anything useful,then realized I've been looking for a microscope rack an pinion stand,so actually have a use for this technique.
Quick and straight forward. Nicely done.
Kudos to you, this is absolutely magnificent.
Great info Steve. You have figured out how to produce a true involute.
nice work Steve, thanks for sharing...
Отличное решение по нарезки шестерней!
Спасибо за видео!
Fascinating. The cuts seem to progress quickly once you get started. Good idea. Thanks.
I have the same Makita cordless drill from a bout 10 years ago. It's a true work horse.
And great video too
Thanks! It was a good drill until the battery packs quit.
Couldn't press the LIKE button hard enough.
Steve, I am building a rope making machine and I wanted gears to make it smooth. Your video is tops in making that happen. You are really good. Sounds like you had a cold. Hope you are better now.
Thanks a mil
Gene
Thanks Gene. I have had trouble with my sinuses most of my life and at the time I was completely stopped up. I have had thoughts of building a rope making machine before, but haven't gotten around to it. That would be a good use for wood gears.
@@Steve.Garrison When I was a kid I made a rope using left over bailing twine by twisting by hand.
It was only 3 ft long but it was a rope.
WOW NICE WORK
This is the EASY button for developing gear teeth. Thanks. The disk could be finished round with the saw instead if the sander with the same mechanism mounted to your cross-wise saw fence.
amazing
Thank you!
Excellent! Well done
Thank you.
Excelente idea! Pero como lo haces... Se que solo son marcas pero en la madera como la ubicas, atajas, sujetas?
The tooth profile generated is only down to the pitch circle. It must be cut deeper to give space for the profile of the other gear tooth. Otherwise the two pitch circles will not coincide. The speed ratio remains the same but the center to center will not be as predicted as the total of the index radii.
True. The tooth profile of an involute gear with a small number of teeth inside the pitch circle is a radial line segment. My method makes a slight undercut inside the pitch circle on gears with a small tooth count, but that's okay because they are wood after all, and shouldn't be used for things other than low power applications. Involute gears also allow a little bit of deviation in distance between centers.
Thank you for this great movie!
I don't like it no
I love it. It makes life so easy. Thank you so much, it made me smile like a loon.
+John Davidson Thanks! How does a loon smile?
This is great. Thanks for sharing.
I am making an attachment to my home made box joint jig to make these gears.
I was watching the video and it hit me that perhaps....... perhaps mind you ........ that a dado blade might cut down on the number of cuts and still retain the shape of the tooth. the width of the dado would be the width of the bottom cut.
I guess there is no way getting around needing a rolling measurement wheel for every different sized gear.
subscribed and watching for new ideas.
Thanks. I found that it works best for the blade to cut the tooth profile as it enters the gear blank rather than as it exits. This way the portion of the saw teeth doing the cutting is on the edge of the blade instead of the side. Yes, the measurement wheel needs to be for a specific size gear, that's what makes it work. If you're making several different size gears, you can start with the biggest and then make the wheel smaller for the next smaller gear.
Thats Beautiful, right there. Good Job.
Buena voz maestro, de quitarse el sombrero
Damn! Look at that! That's amazing. Thank you.
That is a pretty awesome invention dude! Can you or do you have a vid of how to make the jig?
Is it perfect involute? Congrats! Such a brilliant idea.
Yes, it is. Thank you.
Outrageous! Love it! Thank God for you sir! Woohoo!!!!
Congratulations, for the concept, but the accuracy still depends on the operator. Very good result and it shows your skill.
A sn
Almost all accuracy is operator-dependent, surely?
You can of course make a pin, so that you'll get an accurate distance between the teeth.
(Hmm, we'll probably see the next reply to this post in a year from my posting). =)
Yes, dowel pins can be placed between teeth to check dimensions. I just draw the pitch circle on the gear and use calipers. The accuracy of my method relies on being able to line up a pair of marks, and is called, "vernier acuity". Older machinists used vernier calipers instead of dial or digital types. Those are better because they're not affected by chips on a tiny gear rack, or low or dead batteries.
Hi steve,
I saw you idea on making beads on a sander and with a drill..... nice idea
That didn't too impress me tho. What impressed me was the hymn, COME AND DINE..... Baptist??
Steve, this is brilliant. A like the shape of the teeth when the saw cuts it from both side.
Two questions.
Is the index wheel a specific size compared with the wheel that becomes the gear? It looks like it should be the size of the gear measured to the bottom of the gear wheels teeth? That diameter.
Also, I have looked at the video a number of times and can't quite see how you get the two sets of index marks that are used to cut the teeth sides. Could you please elaborate?
Thank you.
Dennis yoj i was wondering the same things, he wants you to buy from his website.
Looks pretty neat
So, to make the helical ones you just angle the fence around the z axis when you cut them? What happens if you angle the x and y axes, a helical bevel gear?
Straight tooth gears are made with the fence perpendicular to the blade. Changing that angle will result in a helical gear.
This is very clever. I was wondering if you had considered morphing it with the box joint jig Matthias Wandel made / invented so you can cut the slots more quickly and easily? Thanks for your clever ideas and video. Cheers, David.
Thanks! No, the gear wouldn't be able to roll over the blade to cut the involute profile if it were clamped down. Cutting the middle of each gap before the profile cut does not require as much precision as the profile cuts, so this is adequate - and fast and easy enough. It's not my style to use someone else's jig as part of my invention. Cheers, Steve.
impressive because it's so simple
that is damn impressive. nice job.
I thought I'd "seen it all." Fantastic idea! Thanks for posting.
I have a question/comment. Why don't take those gears and make a rocker and advance to speed up the process and to not need to mark out each tooth?
The wheel with the spacing marks is separate from the gear and can be used over and over. It is quick and easy to line those marks up with the mark on the fence.
@@Steve.Garrison Yes I know that but what I am saying is that wheel with the marks can only really be used with that size gear and teeth. You would have to make them for each gear size. I have seen your work and know you can make an adjustable gear maker. Kinda like the box finger joint sled Mathias made. I am just you can do it.
How did you make the curtain gears 6:23. That was awesome. Do you have a video of that. Oh I forgot to mention that gear maker is very nice.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Thanks! Yes, each wheel is for one size gear only. Something like you are talking about could probably work, but I just haven't had the need for it, and it would probably take more time designing, building, and perfecting it than the time saved using it. I like to keep things simple if I can without introducing cumulative error.
The gears for the window blind were made the same way as the straight-cut gears except the fence is turned at an angle to the blade instead of 90°. The resulting helical gears have a very nice twisting compound curve tooth profiles. I wish I had video of that when I was making it. Also, a helical gear with the same number of teeth and diametral pitch as a straight-cut gear will have a larger diameter. I use the same formulas that engineers do.
I have seen his box-joint jig, and it is pretty cool. I have my own way of making box joints that is different though.
Wow, I am very impressed.
Thank you!
I wonder what kind of patterns you would get if you put in pencil holes a la Spirograph in those oval gears?
It would be a two-lobed dumbbell shape. Single loop since the gear ratio is one-to-one.
Using this method, how small of a gear do you think could be made?
I've made 6 tooth gears that were a little larger than a quarter.
Steve Garrison I normally just use a band saw to cut out gears when I need them, but your method looks much easier. Especially if I needed to make multiple gears of the same size. The smallest gear for my project is a little over an inch in diameter, but has 10 teeth. Tedious work on the bandsaw.
do you have a video specifically on how to make the weird gears at the end??
Thanks!
Sorry, no.
Wow, awesome.
You sir are a genius! I have been pondering how to make gears. I didn't want to use mathias wandels program because I like to understand stuff myself rather than using somebody else's pattern, and also am more of a paper and pencil designer than cad.
I was thinking/wondering if you could use a dado blade and one continuous roll, rather than the two cuts on different marks.
(Although the message is 7 years old...) I don't think it would work, because the blade does not cut on its side so it won't cut the second part of the gear on its way up.
I concur with the 2 year old assessment.
Gracias por compartir es increíble lo que usted ace
Great idea and great job. My question is about the 28 teeth, that is 12.8571 degrees? That would be very difficult to put the marks on the wood. How did you do that? Cad and template?
I made a circle dividing jig that divides the circumference. It is very accurate and does not have cumulative error. You could use cad to make a template, but if you drill the center hole a little off center in relation to the pattern there will be error - not a good method. My method uses the center hole (which is drilled before the index marks are drawn) as a reference point so the marks are perfectly spaced. The jig is described in my eBook.
Steve Garrison If you enjoy building jigs and what woodworker doesn't? Kick it up a notch. Using hardwood stock make up a similar concept powered by a router either locked and the stock moves or reverse. Nice maple sliding table would be cool. I have never seen a gear tooth profile router bit so this rocking motion cut is the solution
This is a great method!
Thank you.
Nicely done.
This is the involute method, its similar to cut a metal gear on shaper
Thanks.
Cool. The final result is perfect, however the method is a bit complex.
Thank you. It is a little bit slower initially than whipping one out band-sawwing around a paper pattern, but it's also a lot more accurate. The tooth profile is a true involute specific to the tooth count, AND the tooth spacing is based upon the actual location of the drilled center hole. Using a glued-on pattern, you only get one shot at centering the hole perfectly. If you're not concentric you will have a tight spot on each gear, and end up fiddling around making more backlash on all the teeth to get your gear train to finally run smooth.
Genius man - this is great!
Thank you!
That is fricking amazing. Great work.
Woodgears gear generator and band saw does it quicker and just as accurate with practice. This is also a cool idea though.
I like that this can be done on the table saw as I don't have a band saw, this has given me the idea of a modified jig could be used to cut the printouts from the woodgears generator on a table saw.
Not a great comparison, with pegs on the fence and slots on the template this method is way easier once it's set up. You could do a dozen gears in an hour. Mattias' generator is perfect for a single gear, as long as you're a wizard with the bandsaw. So it depends on what you're doing, and who you are. Not to mention tablesaws are ubiquitous whereas bandsaws, not so much.
Very cool ideas
Thank you!
Thank you for this Vid!
Wow! That's totally awesome!
Truly Brilliant!! ❤
Fantastic! Congratulations!
I could use this in my projects
Beautiful work man. Instant sub.
Does this method approximate an involute profile, or produce an exact involute profile?
It produces an exact involute profile.
Steve Garrison
That's phenomenal. As a mathematician, I find that very impressive. Is that 0 degree pressure angle (vertical line of contact)? I'm about to cut a 31 inch diameter flywheel with 61 teeth and a pinion with 14 teeth (notice that are coprime numbers, just like in the auto industry). Since it's a foot powered machine, vertical line of contact would be fine for me.
Actually, the diameter of the template disc controls the pressure angle now that I think about it. This is very good!!!
Edward Solomon Thank you. Modern gears usually have a 20° pressure angle, but 14.5° was common in the past. The gears I made in this video have a 20° pressure angle.
Steve Garrison I'm making a machine now (with woodengears) with 1/4096 gear reduction that can turn a disc and move a router bit along the line of action simultaneously (it actually moves a plane over the router the opposite direction). I'll e-mail you when I finish it. I achieve the 1/4096 reduction with overlapping sets of 1:4 gear ratios. A custom gear will be cut to moderate to properly synchronize the movement of the plane (rack gear driven) and the rotation of the disc.
Thanks for the inspiration!
I found the video: "Fellows Gear shaper the art of Generating Gears (Part 2/4)" combined with your video to be extremely informative.
This is very ingenious! I think I can make the jig but am unsure of one thing. Do you actually work from the other side (normal side) of the saw table? I see the caption that says "operator works from behind the saw". Can you elaborate on why? Is it to prevent having chips thrown at you, maybe? Great work! Thanks!!
Yes, working from the wrong side of the saw keeps the dust out of your face and the gear blank pulled against the backboard of the jig.
si tienes, vendeme ocupo de varias medidas para un proyecto.. por favor!!!
Thanks for the good work done
Excellent.
Thank you.
This is very interesting. I wish we could see an up-close and slow video of the teeth engagement.
That would be kinda neat, but I don't have that kind of camera except for the one in my head. It's not PC compatible though. :)
I just meant a closeup video of you slowly operating the gears, so we could see how the engagement.
Excellent
Thank you!
Cool stuff man!
Where do you get the calculator at
I made it myself in excel using standard AGMA formulas.
Is it useable for any diameter gear?
It works for any diameter that is big enough to handle safely, or larger. Smallest I have made was about 1.25" or 3.2cm diameter. Largest I have made was 16" (40.6cm). Blade thickness dictates minimum pitch.
Thank you for the information, I shall try it.
Thanks Mate, you great.
Very nice!
初めまして。
とってもいいですね、ナイス！
Great tip thanks!
Certainly genius.
Thank you.
Thanks
HI MAN YOUR JOB IS BEAUTIFUL, BUT IS POSSIBLE TO EXPLAIN STEP Step how to glue the pieces, because i do not understand how to make the curve in the snail. Thank you and nice woodwork.
Thank you. I would be glad to try to explain it better. Before I do that though, could you move your comment to the correct video? :)
Just goes to show you , there's more than one way to skin a cat ! Great idea.
Excelente....!
Genius!
Woah!
mükemmel
Thank you.
Fucking Great Method! Love it!
So you're making a gear hobber out of a table saw.
It is similar to that. A gear hobb cutter has teeth with sides that are shaped to match the involute profile. My setup cuts the involute profile utilizing the geometry of the gear blank rolling over the straight-sided blade rather than a specially shaped cutter.
@@Steve.Garrison I know exactly how gear hobbers work because I cut gears for a living. What you're doing is generating the involute with a single point tool instead of a more complicated tool geometry. But whether you are using a hob, or a saw blade, it's still a generational process as you are rolling the gear through the cutter to create the tooth form instead of say using a shaped cutter or tracing the line of a pattern with a scroll saw. The only difference being that where a hobber can only generate teeth on a cylindrical part your process can generate teeth in oddly shaped parts like ovals and ellipses. Have you ever tried your process on spiral curves?
@@quixoticjedi942 I have used it to make elliptical gears, and also helical.
The title of this video should be "How to cut wooden gears if you don't own a drill press, bandsaw, or jigsaw."
Cool vids!!! Keep up the fantastic content! Check out our most recent episode on our page when ya have a min and let me know what ya think.
You sound stuffed up
Thanks for the good work done
Genius!
Thank you.