In all of your videos you always work with your available tools and materials. You are proof that a person doesn't need a shop full of tools to accomplish great work. (I hope my wife doesn't see this comment)
Hi Skully. I work on a budget like many of us and even though I love toys, er, I mean tools, I try where possible to work with a fairly basic kit. That way I hope most folks can do what I do (if they want to of course). Plus I've got a wife as well... enough said : ) Take care. Geoff
THANK YOU! Old Caterpillar mechanic turned whirlygig mechanic here. Ive struggled with hand cutting gears to the point of giving up (which isn't something I normaly do) but , I just couldn't get it right and it caused me to stop making some 'gigs because they NEEDED gears to slow certain things down. Im going to go make my first gear set now. I don't have a computer or printer but im pretty sure the first gear manufacturers didn't either. I'm pretty excited now, like I was the first time I set out to make a gear!
I experimented for hours and came to the same conclusions so it was fantastic to see someone thinking along the same lines. For once I had not wasted my time watching. The precision achieved was best described as precision woodworking. Thank you.
Hi thanks for posting. As an ‘old fashion pattern-maker’ you basically came up with the same way we do things. We have had to make real cast gears with the proper shape to get max strength and used very similar methods. Cheers Warren
Thanks Warren. It's always good to hear from a professional and I'm pleased I was able to guess at some reliable methods. Your feedback it much appreciated : )
While I haven't tried it for gear making yet, in other applications of cutting from paper templates, I have found that using spray adhesive (Super 77 in my case) works well. Additionally, it can easily be removed cleanly with some mineral spirits. This may work better than regular paper glues. Nice video.
That’s pretty inventive using a metal rod for spindle sanding. It also works great to use a wooden dowel. You can cut a thin kerf lengthwise down the dowel with a thin blade,such as a coping saw. Then insert one edge of your sandpaper into the slot and wind it around the dowel. There’s no need to glue the sandpaper on,and it’s easily replaced. If you use a piece of paper that’s 2 or 3 inches long then you’ll wind around the dowel several times,and as it wears, just tear off a half inch or so and you have fresh sandpaper. I’ve even used this with a cordless drill. You can use a 3/8 dowel with 80 grit sandpaper and de rust metal in tight places. The thicker the sandpaper you use, the bigger the kerf you will have to cut. If your belt sander belts break at the seam, but still have plenty of grit on them, that’s a good source of strips.
Yep, You are correct Sir on the Paper Templates, I have the same issue,s at Times with my precision clock gears..Mathias does have a scaling page inside the program for printer inaccuracies ..sometimes it works sometimes it does not for some printers..it is always best to set a compass jig up as You did for verification..however Mathias Gear Generator program is in my opinion the Best on the net,and all I use for my gearing projects...enjoyed the Vid ,have a great Day
Using a centre point and rotating the work piece around the centre point to drill the holes in the drill press is the smart way to ensure every hole is the same distance from the centre Great video, thanks for posting 👍
Thanks Philip. As you were the inspiration for my PVC pump, I appreciate your comments. Tricky things to calculate those gear sizes and ratios. Possible, yes, but Matthias has made it easy for us all : )
Great video; I like that you use as few and simple tools as possible, this makes it easier for those who do not have much, to also make gears. A compas jig is the correct way of doing this. If making a freehand center, it will be very difficult to get it "accurate". With the compas jig, you know it'll be accurate every time without much effort. Making a compas jig also allows you to extend it to a real 'gear-making-jig' later on, where you place a template on the bottom and 'click' each tooth into place. That will make accurate angles without having to print out a paper template. This allows for making different size gears, however you'll need to make sure the tooth-size match. =)
@@vogman Just out of curiosity: What type of printer did you use? I've heard that some laser printers can distort one dimension relative to the other (horizontal vs. vertical or vice versa) whereas inkjet printers do not.
Works for me fine. If they jam - check and adjust distances between centers of the two sprockets. I make them pretty crude like Matthias and they still work fine. Made a set from splintering reused plywood for my table saw lift mechanism back in....2012, works till now, for several years the saw was used daily.
Hi Alonzo. No I haven't spoken to Matthias about this. In fairness it's not a major issue. It's quite easy with a compass and pencil to add you own spokes, so I haven't troubled him. Actually if you look at me recent Loam Foam Casting video you can see the sprocket including spokes. Best wishes Geoff
Beautiful. I too found Mattias program didn't work as well as it said and it's way too difficult to cut by hand accurate gears. Making a proper gear jig is the best for exam a dividing head, etc
Thanks for sharing your ideas, but for me it's would require way too much tedious work which would strain my already diminishing sight. However, I really like the idea of using pins in disks in place of cutting gears as suggested by Michael Carter, thanks Michael for suggesting that!
The error is the accumulated slop in the printer mechanics. It is of no concern with back forth of printer head on standard note paper size it cancels it out but, lines and circles and such it adds up. They are not intended to be CNCs or plotter accuracy. If you have some leather punches or some thin pipe around (file an edge to an end) re-enforce the area with clear tape, you can punch cut the the paper drill hole locations template and wood at once. No tear-out of paper. For ones and twos or fours this is good as a way of coming at the geometry desired and as a proof of concept demo and good if a little clunkiness is part of the look and feel of the project. What this does do greatest is show that the several operations needed could easily be made with a few dedicated jigs. A few 1/4 inch router bits and Dremel bits and jigs. For me, really caused the scribble book jig sketching session on the couch. Hobby 'production run' level quantities. Concocting jig solutions is half the fun.
Having studied engineering design, and taken specific classes on drawing gears. What I can say is the modern standard for gears has been developed for optimum wear, the transmission of energy, and forces across teeth planes. But if there was any chance of me making gears for a home project, I would do this instead! (A LOT less math and drawing)
great tips... what about using a pully instead of gears... there's a bit of slippage, but using a belt and then the two round wheels are easier to cut out. Have you looked into using pins inserted to a wheel instead of cut out teeth? pins might do just as good a job of meshing without the trouble of cutting out the teeth... just a few ideas... =D could this be done on a lathe?
Pulley and belt can be a very good solution and in many cases better than gears - and this solution usually also produces less noise. -But there are of course also cases where you need to make sure there is no slipping/skipping, thus you need gears. I think the "pin-wheels" is an option one should consider, it only requires a round wooden board and a drill-jig + dowels. This is especially interesting for 90 degree gears. (you can also see this used throughout history all over the world). Hmm, thinking about it; you don't even need a drill and jig in order to make such "pin-gears"; you only need a disc, a bunch of matches and some PVA-glue. Scale to fit your needs. You can even make a working full-size sample using cardboard before making the final gear. (PVA glue is great for both wood and cardboard). Timing belts and pulleys (eg. with teeth and grooves) are great, but making wooden pulleys that match a timing belt would probably not be easy. ;) On the other hand, one could use a large V-belt and cut grooves in it and make matching grooved pulleys; especially if only one set is needed.
It's my Dad's fault... he once said to me, "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right," and it stuck : ) And yes, a CNC is on my wish list. Maybe if I get another million subscribers ; )
you are a genious,deep thanks for have gave ideas for my calculations prototype of speed multiplier for my homemade windmill generator.......i'll get you the blueprints for your DIY cnc,😀😀
Wow... home made generator. I've toyed with doing that for year. But I live in a town and there's very little wind or sunshine. So I'm a bit stuck for ecological home build options. Let me know how you get on : D
If you have trouble with templates tearing up from the cutting blades, eliminate the paper. Use a T-shirt transfer instead and print the template directly on the piece you are going to cut.
You refer to a compass jig at 2:55 minutes into your video. I think it would be an asset to have in the hit pocket of accessories. It may be somewhere in the boot of known appartati, but not being familiar with the phrase I have to consult you for specifics. Thank you.
Hi Eldon, Sorry for the confusion. By 'compass jig' I am simply coining a phrase referring to the whole process, ie centrally pivoting the work to enable 360 degree rotation, in the same way that a compass would. By so doing, each drill point is the same distance from the centre, allowing the operator to concentrate on one axis only, that being the measured points around the circumference of the work. Hope this helps. Any more question, please don't hesitate : ) Geoff
Really well done, I appreciate you problem solving from the perspective of someone who doesn't own all these expensive machinery.
Glad you enjoyed it!
In all of your videos you always work with your available tools and materials. You are proof that a person doesn't need a shop full of tools to accomplish great work. (I hope my wife doesn't see this comment)
Hi Skully. I work on a budget like many of us and even though I love toys, er, I mean tools, I try where possible to work with a fairly basic kit. That way I hope most folks can do what I do (if they want to of course). Plus I've got a wife as well... enough said : )
Take care. Geoff
THANK YOU!
Old Caterpillar mechanic turned whirlygig mechanic here. Ive struggled with hand cutting gears to the point of giving up (which isn't something I normaly do) but , I just couldn't get it right and it caused me to stop making some 'gigs because they NEEDED gears to slow certain things down. Im going to go make my first gear set now. I don't have a computer or printer but im pretty sure the first gear manufacturers didn't either.
I'm pretty excited now, like I was the first time I set out to make a gear!
Getting great results with minimal/improvised tools is always commendable.
Many thanks : )
I experimented for hours and came to the same conclusions so it was fantastic to see someone thinking along the same lines. For once I had not wasted my time watching. The precision achieved was best described as precision woodworking. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent description and tips for people without the proper equipment !!!! THANKS!!!!
Thanks Joe : )
Hi thanks for posting. As an ‘old fashion pattern-maker’ you basically came up with the same way we do things. We have had to make real cast gears with the proper shape to get max strength and used very similar methods.
Cheers Warren
Thanks Warren. It's always good to hear from a professional and I'm pleased I was able to guess at some reliable methods. Your feedback it much appreciated : )
I love your problem solving! I like not just buying your way out of problems!
I love the attention to detail and the resulting precision of your gears. Well done!
Thanks Brian. It's easy to do with this simple jig approach : )
Beautifully simple and easy to follow! Thank you for taking the time to make , share, and teach!
While I haven't tried it for gear making yet, in other applications of cutting from paper templates, I have found that using spray adhesive (Super 77 in my case) works well. Additionally, it can easily be removed cleanly with some mineral spirits. This may work better than regular paper glues. Nice video.
Thanks for the tip.
That’s pretty inventive using a metal rod for spindle sanding. It also works great to use a wooden dowel. You can cut a thin kerf lengthwise down the dowel with a thin blade,such as a coping saw. Then insert one edge of your sandpaper into the slot and wind it around the dowel. There’s no need to glue the sandpaper on,and it’s easily replaced. If you use a piece of paper that’s 2 or 3 inches long then you’ll wind around the dowel several times,and as it wears, just tear off a half inch or so and you have fresh sandpaper. I’ve even used this with a cordless drill. You can use a 3/8 dowel with 80 grit sandpaper and de rust metal in tight places. The thicker the sandpaper you use, the bigger the kerf you will have to cut. If your belt sander belts break at the seam, but still have plenty of grit on them, that’s a good source of strips.
great video. I specially like the fact that you also show the mishapps.
Jos from Amsterdam, Holland
Making mistakes is part of the learning process. But it's even better if you can learn from someone else's mistakes : )
I love Matthias' videos, but I have to admit that your workflow was easier and faster for me to do! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Paul : )
great video for someone with limited tools!
Yep, You are correct Sir on the Paper Templates, I have the same issue,s at Times with my precision clock gears..Mathias does have a scaling page inside the program for printer inaccuracies ..sometimes it works sometimes it does not for some printers..it is always best to set a compass jig up as You did for verification..however Mathias Gear Generator program is in my opinion the Best on the net,and all I use for my gearing projects...enjoyed the Vid ,have a great Day
Hi Tim. Thanks for your comments.
And as regards Mathias, you'll get no argument from me : )
Using a centre point and rotating the work piece around the centre point to drill the holes in the drill press is the smart way to ensure every hole is the same distance from the centre
Great video, thanks for posting 👍
Many thanks 😁😁😁
These suggestions are helping my gears immensely
Thanks Craig. That's great to hear : )
Super helpful. Mathias is awesome but this was also helpful
Hi Corinne. Thanks for your comment.
And Mathias? What can I say... you're spot on. I'm a subscriber : )
Very good. I also had the same issues as you. Well thought out. The next challenge is to calculate without the gear calculating program.
Thanks Philip. As you were the inspiration for my PVC pump, I appreciate your comments.
Tricky things to calculate those gear sizes and ratios. Possible, yes, but Matthias has made it easy for us all : )
Great video; I like that you use as few and simple tools as possible, this makes it easier for those who do not have much, to also make gears.
A compas jig is the correct way of doing this. If making a freehand center, it will be very difficult to get it "accurate". With the compas jig, you know it'll be accurate every time without much effort.
Making a compas jig also allows you to extend it to a real 'gear-making-jig' later on, where you place a template on the bottom and 'click' each tooth into place. That will make accurate angles without having to print out a paper template. This allows for making different size gears, however you'll need to make sure the tooth-size match. =)
Thanks for your input : )
@@vogman Just out of curiosity: What type of printer did you use? I've heard that some laser printers can distort one dimension relative to the other (horizontal vs. vertical or vice versa) whereas inkjet printers do not.
Nice one Veg.OG. I will have more time next year, and I intend to try your method (plus a few more ideas I have).
This is really clever...well done man. Great video
Many thanks : )
Works for me fine. If they jam - check and adjust distances between centers of the two sprockets. I make them pretty crude like Matthias and they still work fine. Made a set from splintering reused plywood for my table saw lift mechanism back in....2012, works till now, for several years the saw was used daily.
Thank you for the upload! Have you spoken with Mr. Wandel regarding your sprocket issues?
Hi Alonzo. No I haven't spoken to Matthias about this. In fairness it's not a major issue. It's quite easy with a compass and pencil to add you own spokes, so I haven't troubled him.
Actually if you look at me recent Loam Foam Casting video you can see the sprocket including spokes.
Best wishes
Geoff
What if you don’t have a printer. Am struggling to get them to mesh perfectly. Sort of gave up the now but gonna give it another go.
excellent and enjoyable vid. thanks for sharing.
That's very kind Mark, thanks.
Beautiful. I too found Mattias program didn't work as well as it said and it's way too difficult to cut by hand accurate gears. Making a proper gear jig is the best for exam a dividing head, etc
Thanks for sharing your ideas, but for me it's would require way too much tedious work which would strain my already diminishing sight. However, I really like the idea of using pins in disks in place of cutting gears as suggested by Michael Carter, thanks Michael for suggesting that!
Great commentary that, and some brilliant fixes...
Thanks Martoon : )
The error is the accumulated slop in the printer mechanics. It is of no concern with back forth of printer head on standard note paper size it cancels it out but, lines and circles and such it adds up. They are not intended to be CNCs or plotter accuracy.
If you have some leather punches or some thin pipe around (file an edge to an end) re-enforce the area with clear tape, you can punch cut the the paper drill hole locations template and wood at once. No tear-out of paper.
For ones and twos or fours this is good as a way of coming at the geometry desired and as a proof of concept demo and good if a little clunkiness is part of the look and feel of the project.
What this does do greatest is show that the several operations needed could easily be made with a few dedicated jigs. A few 1/4 inch router bits and Dremel bits and jigs. For me, really caused the scribble book jig sketching session on the couch. Hobby 'production run' level quantities. Concocting jig solutions is half the fun.
Thank you!
Having studied engineering design, and taken specific classes on drawing gears. What I can say is the modern standard for gears has been developed for optimum wear, the transmission of energy, and forces across teeth planes. But if there was any chance of me making gears for a home project, I would do this instead! (A LOT less math and drawing)
It is quite literally garden shed engineering, but it doesn't do a bad job 😉😊👍
Great job 👏👏👏❤️
Good advice if you don't have the fancy stuff..thanks..
Basic tools can do the job 😁
great tips... what about using a pully instead of gears... there's a bit of slippage, but using a belt and then the two round wheels are easier to cut out. Have you looked into using pins inserted to a wheel instead of cut out teeth? pins might do just as good a job of meshing without the trouble of cutting out the teeth... just a few ideas... =D could this be done on a lathe?
Pulley and belt can be a very good solution and in many cases better than gears - and this solution usually also produces less noise.
-But there are of course also cases where you need to make sure there is no slipping/skipping, thus you need gears.
I think the "pin-wheels" is an option one should consider, it only requires a round wooden board and a drill-jig + dowels. This is especially interesting for 90 degree gears.
(you can also see this used throughout history all over the world).
Hmm, thinking about it; you don't even need a drill and jig in order to make such "pin-gears"; you only need a disc, a bunch of matches and some PVA-glue. Scale to fit your needs. You can even make a working full-size sample using cardboard before making the final gear. (PVA glue is great for both wood and cardboard).
Timing belts and pulleys (eg. with teeth and grooves) are great, but making wooden pulleys that match a timing belt would probably not be easy. ;)
On the other hand, one could use a large V-belt and cut grooves in it and make matching grooved pulleys; especially if only one set is needed.
The free version makes the image slightly wavy.
Good job! You’re definitely a purist. Have you ever thought about investing in a CNC machine?
It's my Dad's fault... he once said to me, "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right," and it stuck : )
And yes, a CNC is on my wish list. Maybe if I get another million subscribers ; )
If there is a zombie apocalypse, I will definitely hangout with you.
3d printers are cheep now as well - similar technology, with much less cost.
hahaha the background music hits the spot.
Beautiful Video. Well done Sir!!!
Thanks Rhombus : )
Did you just assume their gender
you are a genious,deep thanks for have gave ideas for my calculations prototype of speed multiplier for my homemade windmill generator.......i'll get you the blueprints for your DIY cnc,😀😀
Wow... home made generator. I've toyed with doing that for year. But I live in a town and there's very little wind or sunshine. So I'm a bit stuck for ecological home build options. Let me know how you get on : D
how's it going?
Quite Clever!
Thanks Bob : )
Pretty Gears
You have to adjust the aspect ratio of the printer to have the print to come out right.
Thanks for the input Gary.
I was watching the drill chuck whose head turns smoothly and not wobbling visibly, like my Sieg Mill chuck that noticeably wobbles. (4:55)
Mine is so old I'm amazed it turns at all 😁
@@vogman
It's still a nice chuck. Probably a Bosch.
Intelligent, Thanks mate
If you have trouble with templates tearing up from the cutting blades, eliminate the paper. Use a T-shirt transfer instead and print the template directly on the piece you are going to cut.
👍tanks
You refer to a compass jig at 2:55 minutes into your video. I think it would be an asset to have in the hit pocket of accessories. It may be somewhere in the boot of known appartati, but not being familiar with the phrase I have to consult you for specifics. Thank you.
Hi Eldon,
Sorry for the confusion. By 'compass jig' I am simply coining a phrase referring to the whole process, ie centrally pivoting the work to enable 360 degree rotation, in the same way that a compass would. By so doing, each drill point is the same distance from the centre, allowing the operator to concentrate on one axis only, that being the measured points around the circumference of the work.
Hope this helps. Any more question, please don't hesitate : )
Geoff
Thank you
You're welcome
How to do this with table saw
I'm sure I once saw someone going that... have you searched for it?
HOW HIGH OF AN RPM CAN THESE GUYS HANDLE?????
Love it
Very kind : )
help! where can i download the template?
www.vegoilguy.co.uk/continuous_track.php
@@vogman THANK YOUUU
No worries
Nivel work
Many thanks
Can i make small and thin gears??
For small and thin, I'm recommend a 3D printer. You can get amazingly small and highly accurate pieces.
2:54 How come you're marking to drill on the tooth and between it?
try watching the whole video, 3:40
There's another way to make gears, one if them is using 3D printer with either PLA or PETG.
At the time I made this video I didn't have a 3D printer or CAD experience. These days I'd probably do things differently 😁
Цікаво 😊❤
9u