Thanks a lot for taking the time and trouble for making the video. Our system mirrors yours, kitchen extension with UFH to existing boiler. Couldn't work out why we were getting water hammer from zone valves when the CH/UFH shut off! No bypass for the pump run on!! Doh.... Cheers 😊 👍
One of the reasons to pressure the underfloor pies to 6bar is to expand them slightly so when the screed goes down there will be a tiny gap between the screed and pipe to allow for expansion when the heating goes on.
very good information, I am installing a UFH system to my combi system currently. From the video I will add in a bypass. But I had a question on the 2port valves. Should there be 2 port valves on both the CH to radiators and the UFH manifold?
Seeing this manufacturers manifold has convinced me to use Nu-Heat again on the house I’m currently building. And yes I installed the underfloor heating on previous.
Great video. I'm looking to get Tado installed. Regarding the electrical wiring for the 2 port valve, I understand you need to install one for the radiator and one for the UFH after the flow pipes from the boiler are tee'd off. But I'm keen to understand how these motorised valves get their power? As in, where does the black cable coming out of the motorised valve connect into? Any idea how each of these motorised valves get their power to turn on/off? For example, for the UFH, do you install one 2 port valve in the manifold area which gets its power directly from the manifold / UFH wiring control centre and turns on once the thermostat calls for heat? And to control and turn on the radiators, do you install the second 2 port valve next to the boiler so it can collect its power directly from the boiler or from the Tado wireless receiver (and therefore switch on once the Tado TRV is calls for heat)?
Great video and knowledge is amazing like your other videos what boilers this the 4000 or the 8000 and can you use the plug in room stat still with the radiator side and use external controls for the underfloor or will you need to hardwire a new controller for the heating I’m so bad at electrics
I'm fairly sure you fill up the underfloor through a hose connected to the Manifold, not use the boilers filling loop? What did the manifolds' installation instructions say?
I always fill up with hosepipe and open drain off until all air is pushed out from the loops individually. Once done, open the isolation valves on F&R pipes and bleed from manual air vent on manifold
I’m looking to do this on my system, but I plan to stick another pump before the rads otherwise I think the CCT will just become a bypass when rads are calling for heat. Would you install an identical erp pump to the boiler and wire it to the boiler’s pump so it mirrors the pump modulation?
Hey Erik. Thank you for the comments. I knew the underside notches would ruffle some feathers 🤣. It's totally legall. Check the regs . Like I said in the video a close coupled Tee or hydraulic separation is also ok, but that is not how 99 percent of combi boilers are plumbed in , plus no underfloor heating manufacture I've worked with say that is mandatory. The manifold has a balancing valve to reduce flow temperature . Cheers
@@loving-plumbing just coz 99 percent of people do combis like that doesn’t mean it’s correct and manufacturers dont know what they are doing most of time. Just coz media says that how you should do it, again doesn’t mean its correct. Be a shepherd and not a sheep
@@loving-plumbing no bud do your research every job is different manufacturers just cover their own arses they don’t care about the rest of the system. Why dont you look into a hydronics coarse it will change your life
@@aerenewables In the video I referenced low loss headers and close coupled Tee's on several occasion. I'm well aware of system design. As I said. We are following manufacturers instructions in this video..... As do most plumbers , builders and homeowners.
Are you on the face book heating design forum ? This system will not be able to use a low flow temperature strategy as the manufacturer has mislead you into a high temperature lower efficiency system. You should do the system design not a lazy out of date supplier. Your workmanship is 1st class and to see you do this design 😞
Hi Andrew. I think you have to remember this is a quick underfloor heating job in a extension followed to plumbing schematics provided. I'm well aware of the benefits of adding a close coupled Tee underneath the boiler or even a low loss header. Although I appreciate this is not the best possible way it could be, I am not there to change controls or redesign the system. I mention several times in the video that you can indeed install additional components. I'm a great admirer of your videos and I'm sorry to have disappointed you on this one! 🤣. If I redesigned every system I worked on I would be out of the job. Thanks for the comment 👍👍.
Yes I do actually. It is certainly not a huge job, weird that you have the knowledge but you can't be asked to use it. That's british tradesman for ya lol
Your figures for where you can and can’t notch the joists are correct except for the fact that you can only notch the top of the joist. You aren’t allowed to cut anything out of the bottom of the joist
@@loving-plumbing I'm only an apprentice but I admire your work and how neat and tidy it is. I also dont know how you do some of the bends you do. I think it would be good if you did a video on how you do difficult bends and get the measurements ect.
@@deano6017 thanks Deano appreciate it. When we get some time I will try and do that. In reality we just work in a way where we try to use as little fittings as possible. It really just comes down to practice.
It's all wrong anyway, the other holes make the joist good for nothing, clipping pipes to joist, great for noise click click. You can get plastic over-clips (twin u shape) that sit on top or (bottom in this case), of the pipes that have a metal top (stops nails and screws) and a central fixing, these allow the pipes to move as there not tight like clips plus use can use hair felt across the wood. Don't clip within 600mm of a right angle as the pipe won't be able to expand, more click click. Spent more years first fixing in copper than plastic, just some of the tricks old gits do.
Thanks a lot for taking the time and trouble for making the video. Our system mirrors yours, kitchen extension with UFH to existing boiler. Couldn't work out why we were getting water hammer from zone valves when the CH/UFH shut off!
No bypass for the pump run on!! Doh....
Cheers 😊 👍
One of the reasons to pressure the underfloor pies to 6bar is to expand them slightly so when the screed goes down there will be a tiny gap between the screed and pipe to allow for expansion when the heating goes on.
Great video buddy, explained why you did it the way you did perfectly…👌🏼.......
Must be the season for some UFH install's eh mate.......
Nice one Mark. Ha ,yeah your decoiler definitely works better then mine!
Excellent love it, ALL new systems should be UFH. Rads are the worst way to heat a home etc. regards George Staszak Mr Combi 🤩👍
Thanks for your comment, all the best, George 👍
Baileys work at the end was terrific! Truly remarkable! You should be proud
What about me Sam! What about me 🤣🤣
:-)))))
very good information, I am installing a UFH system to my combi system currently. From the video I will add in a bypass. But I had a question on the 2port valves. Should there be 2 port valves on both the CH to radiators and the UFH manifold?
Seeing this manufacturers manifold has convinced me to use Nu-Heat again on the house I’m currently building. And yes I installed the underfloor heating on previous.
Thanks for the comment. What's the difference may I ask?
@@loving-plumbing their’s was much more concise. not cheap though.
Great video. I'm looking to get Tado installed. Regarding the electrical wiring for the 2 port valve, I understand you need to install one for the radiator and one for the UFH after the flow pipes from the boiler are tee'd off. But I'm keen to understand how these motorised valves get their power? As in, where does the black cable coming out of the motorised valve connect into? Any idea how each of these motorised valves get their power to turn on/off? For example, for the UFH, do you install one 2 port valve in the manifold area which gets its power directly from the manifold / UFH wiring control centre and turns on once the thermostat calls for heat? And to control and turn on the radiators, do you install the second 2 port valve next to the boiler so it can collect its power directly from the boiler or from the Tado wireless receiver (and therefore switch on once the Tado TRV is calls for heat)?
Am sure they all connect to a wiring centre to run all system
Great video and knowledge is amazing like your other videos what boilers this the 4000 or the 8000 and can you use the plug in room stat still with the radiator side and use external controls for the underfloor or will you need to hardwire a new controller for the heating I’m so bad at electrics
Great video mate just wondering why it has a pump on the manifold when the boiler has its own pump ? How would that work
What was the insulation under the screed and how thick a screed is being poured, thanks.
Should the bypass not tee in before the tee for the underfloor heating flow tee? 🤔
I'm fairly sure you fill up the underfloor through a hose connected to the Manifold, not use the boilers filling loop? What did the manifolds' installation instructions say?
Yeah you can do that also. 👍
I always fill up with hosepipe and open drain off until all air is pushed out from the loops individually. Once done, open the isolation valves on F&R pipes and bleed from manual air vent on manifold
Best thing is make up your own filling kit by way of a 1/2 hp pump and purge the whole system at once particularly a large house.
Hi. Have you used an additional expansion vessel to cater for the water volume?
Good point 👍🏻
Hey, did you actually use the pump that was on the manifold? Can't imagine you did but??
Hi. Is it posible to heat shower floor? And all bathroom?
Are you not ending up with uneven floor temperatures with the ufh ?
Worcester have put a technical bulletin out for connecting ufh manifolds to their boilers TB 0137 B. It needs hydraulic separation
I’m looking to do this on my system, but I plan to stick another pump before the rads otherwise I think the CCT will just become a bypass when rads are calling for heat. Would you install an identical erp pump to the boiler and wire it to the boiler’s pump so it mirrors the pump modulation?
What brand of manifold did you use for UFH please?
I use Wunda mainly , but also Robbens.
I would not allow that as it’s to close to ceiling plasterboard a screw anything could go in it
I agree with both those comments. Should not be chopping joists ! Well illegal and takes strength out of would and needs separation
Hey Erik. Thank you for the comments. I knew the underside notches would ruffle some feathers 🤣. It's totally legall. Check the regs . Like I said in the video a close coupled Tee or hydraulic separation is also ok, but that is not how 99 percent of combi boilers are plumbed in , plus no underfloor heating manufacture I've worked with say that is mandatory. The manifold has a balancing valve to reduce flow temperature . Cheers
@@loving-plumbing just coz 99 percent of people do combis like that doesn’t mean it’s correct and manufacturers dont know what they are doing most of time. Just coz media says that how you should do it, again doesn’t mean its correct. Be a shepherd and not a sheep
@@aerenewables So your advice is to ignore manufacturers instructions. Cheers Erik....
@@loving-plumbing no bud do your research every job is different manufacturers just cover their own arses they don’t care about the rest of the system. Why dont you look into a hydronics coarse it will change your life
@@aerenewables In the video I referenced low loss headers and close coupled Tee's on several occasion. I'm well aware of system design. As I said. We are following manufacturers instructions in this video..... As do most plumbers , builders and homeowners.
Job is not complete?
Are you on the face book heating design forum ? This system will not be able to use a low flow temperature strategy as the manufacturer has mislead you into a high temperature lower efficiency system. You should do the system design not a lazy out of date supplier. Your workmanship is 1st class and to see you do this design 😞
Hi Andrew. I think you have to remember this is a quick underfloor heating job in a extension followed to plumbing schematics provided.
I'm well aware of the benefits of adding a close coupled Tee underneath the boiler or even a low loss header.
Although I appreciate this is not the best possible way it could be, I am not there to change controls or redesign the system. I mention several times in the video that you can indeed install additional components.
I'm a great admirer of your videos and I'm sorry to have disappointed you on this one! 🤣. If I redesigned every system I worked on I would be out of the job.
Thanks for the comment 👍👍.
@@loving-plumbing Is it really that difficult to add in some closed couple tees? hardly a system redesign. Just laziness more than anything
@@victoria-ud3xh lol. Clearly you have no idea what's involved.
Yes I do actually. It is certainly not a huge job, weird that you have the knowledge but you can't be asked to use it. That's british tradesman for ya lol
@@victoria-ud3xh 🤣🤣 cheers for the comments.
Your figures for where you can and can’t notch the joists are correct except for the fact that you can only notch the top of the joist. You aren’t allowed to cut anything out of the bottom of the joist
This is not true
From building control:
Depth and position of notches must be within the zones shown in the diagram below and only in the top of the joists
@@jeffglaister9620 bottom of the joist can be notched if there is not, or will never be notches in the top
@@deanchapple1 that a uninsulated air gap
@@deanchapple1 even the electrician didn't use it..... 🤣🤣.
Should of put laff on the bottom of the joists, then your not notching the joists
Can only notch top of the joists... not the bottom... please re-read the regs...
nice video but Jesus Christ just let him do what he does and enjoy the video. I think he knows his stuff.
Cheers Deano!!!!!
@@loving-plumbing I'm only an apprentice but I admire your work and how neat and tidy it is. I also dont know how you do some of the bends you do. I think it would be good if you did a video on how you do difficult bends and get the measurements ect.
@@deano6017 thanks Deano appreciate it. When we get some time I will try and do that. In reality we just work in a way where we try to use as little fittings as possible. It really just comes down to practice.
@@deanchapple1 🤣
It's all wrong anyway, the other holes make the joist good for nothing, clipping pipes to joist, great for noise click click. You can get plastic over-clips (twin u shape) that sit on top or (bottom in this case), of the pipes that have a metal top (stops nails and screws) and a central fixing, these allow the pipes to move as there not tight like clips plus use can use hair felt across the wood. Don't clip within 600mm of a right angle as the pipe won't be able to expand, more click click.
Spent more years first fixing in copper than plastic, just some of the tricks old gits do.
Ccts all day
Thats not regs 😂😂 well it is but top of joists not bottom