Thanks for this video my friend! I have just ordered all the parts necessary for the build! Will be a much easier project than building an actual pedal for once haha!
1. You can buy this unit off Reverb for $55 already wired and totally complete as the "Speaker Soak"...BUT it has no ventilation holes. That's where the guy making these saved labor, because drilling the holes is the most tedious and time-consuming part of the build. 2. I made mine with $35 worth of parts (inc. tax and shipping) bought off Amazon. But in either case I would have had to drill the frickin' holes. 3. Make sure the L-pad is at least twice the rating of the amp's wattage. Amazon sells a 50-watt one for 16 smackers. 4. From the "you'd think I'd learn" dept.: I (once again - after a similar project) got happy drilling one of the holes for the jacks with a long (and large) drill bit, and the bit got caught and violently spun the project box around, slamming it into my wrist, cutting it, and also forming a huge lump and bruise. The box was also fractured and deformed around the hole. When I saw the damage that was done to the box, I figured I came out of the deal with no worse a physical injury. 5. Best approach is to use a step drill bit (a very handy device for drilling in metal). I had one I had been using, but I just got stupid and lazy with that hole. But at any rate, BE VERY CAREFUL DRILLING THEM HOLES! 6. Great video - thanks for posting!
Universal Audio has the $1000 "Ox Box", Dave Barlow has the under $50 "Bullock's Box" Had no idea that they were this simple to make, thanks for the tutorial Dave.
I hope these comments don't seem like I'm taking away from this project, I've built some of the L-Pad attenuators before and they are great tools to have. I just wanted to add a couple things. 1. The L-Pad rating is a bit deceptive. I'd be very nervous using one to bring your 100 watt Marshall down to bedroom levels. A 100 watt tube amp will put out more than 100 watts when it's cranked. These work best for 15 - 30 watt amps. 50 watts would be pushing it. They will get warm, that's normal, but if they get really hot you're asking for trouble. 2. Comparing these to expensive attenuators isn't really fair (sometimes). A lot of those expensive attenuators use a reactive load instead of a purely resistive load. The reactive load will sound more natural, especially when using it to really dial the volume back. Some expensive attenuators really are the same as this though. In that case the comparisons are fair. Anyway, just wanted to make those things clear. These really are great tools. Go build one!
What is suitable as a reactive load for a 20w amp. I thought about just putting a ceramic resistor to attenuate just a bit. My problem is, I need bedroom levels and it's always a hassle to make dial it in at around 1, because it's either too loud or too silent and dull. But if a resistor will make the sound of the power amp sterile I don't want it either. So, then you need something like a speaker and you try to mute it? Or what is a good reactive load, cheap of course, LOL.
@@InTheSh8 Does your amp have a FX loop ? Try running a EQ or some other unit with a level control in the loop. Depending on your amp in terms of volume controls being pre or post loop you can use this method to reduce volume. As a example, I run a Peavey 6505+ combo FX loop into a rack FX. The channel output on the Amp is at 3 and the output of the FX rack is set to nearly 0. It is not quite the same as attenuation, or using a load box, but I think it is safer for your amp in the long run.
I have a Two Notes Torpedo Captor 8 that I just want to attenuate slightly. It has full or -20db. I need -10db approx. I use a 16ohm cab that I use for dry only. I assume a 16 ohm L-pad would be adequate?
@@DaveBarlowGuitar I figured it out, when any speaker is connected to the Two Notes, the load goes to the speaker instead of the reactive load. I can use an L-pad type attenuator no problem between the Two Notes Torpedo Captor 8 and a speaker. The L-pad attenuator impedance just has to match the speaker when in use.
Hope everything is all good dude, not seen any new videos of yours so just watching the back catalogue just now with the current situation. would love to see you make a stompbox of some sort like a kit version, or even a housing upgrade of pedal. been looking at maybe sticking a berhinger sf300 in a metal housing as its an awesome sounding pedal but its housed in plastic.
This is essentially what the bugera ps1 and the harley benton soak use correct(minus the bells and whistles for the line outs and impedance switching)?
Thank you for this video. Question for you. Could I just use a 100k pot? I’m wanting to build one myself. Just want to know why use an LPAD over a regular pot.
Excellent idea Dave, and great video!!! How would I make one for my old 100w 1959 Super Lead with two 16 ohm quad cabinets? Obviously the head is set to 8 ohm for the full stack. So, would I still use the 8ohm L Pad and wire two jacks for the output to speakers???
Excellent video and demo, was thinking about this for a long time. Could I use this with a PRS MT15 that has master volume for lead and separate volume for clean? Luckily it has the 8Ohm output.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar many MT15 owners complain about that, you can look it up on the PRS forum. Who knows, could be that they ran out of bat taper pots that day and had to use a good one for your amp hahah
Simply awesome! I am not a musician but I want to build something similar to attenuate the audio coming out from a video game console (it has monster gain and produces a lot of distortion / clipping). It's need around 3db attenuation, would this solution allow me to obtain such result? Thanks for sharing and for your kind help :)
Nice video. I built one. I like to test things with a meter before I try them. It doesn't do what I expect but from threads I've found it seems like I get similar reads than they did putting a meter accross it. What's your approach to this? Do you check it in any way before risking your output transformer on it?
Oh yeah, also I notice you connected the ground terminal to both Jack's independently. What's your rational for that? I figure they're connected via the chassis already so I fought the urge...
I just built this and it works pretty good on my 40w hot rod deluxe. I’m using a 8ohm 100w lpad. My only beef is that it’s super sensitive, a slightly large movement on the lpad and it gets loud real quick. Any fixes for that?
Thanks for the video and schematic Dave. I'll have it built in the next couple of days (the diecast box I bought was slightly small for the L-Pad so I need to make some modifications to it) but hopefully it'll work just fine thanks to you. The thing I'm curious about is the way you installed your L-Pad the lugs away from the input/output jacks. I'm no technician but isn't it a matter of just turning the shaft all the way anti-clockwise & then putting the indicator plate (if you're using it,) which ever way you'd like it and the knob so it points where-ever you want zero/off to be? No matter which way around you put the L-Pad, 0% will be all the way to the left & 100% will be all the way to the right won't it? Is there something I'm not seeing in my ignorance?
Nice build Dave. Just one suggestion however. Clarify the ground wires solder to the sleeve of the jacks. Hot wires go to the jack tips, just the tips.
It's easier to get the impedance you want by using a voltage divider (two resistors, e.g. two 25ohm resistors, one to ground, one to output), then a rheostat to fine tune the attenuation level.
Nice work Dave, I had no idea they were this simple. I've a Peavey Classic 50, do I have to put another input for the speakers? Sorry that I'm being thick, electrics aren't my thing, I just wonder how it would work on a combo.
If the speaker output is hard wired to the amp you will need to modify the speaker wire, if you are not sure might be best to get a qualified person on it.
Hi Dave, very good video of yours and not to mention the attenuator that you made yourself sorry for the inconvenience but could you tell me what it is and what do you call it Lap? I am from Buenos Aires Argentina and as you will know here everything comes out double or triple its value, so I would appreciate if you take the donkey out a little and tell me what the Lap is and where to buy or order it, thank you very much and big hug bro ...
@@DaveBarlowGuitar David very grateful for your time and very good vibes when answering my question !!! , really what I need is to build a reactive load box, not an attenuator there is my fault when asking so lightly, I was confused a thousand apologies, I think that the attenuator would not fulfill the same function as reactive load box, so well I do not get you more time, again more than grateful for your help, I send you a big hug Bro ... What I am trying to build would be something like this for my 100wtts tube amp ...ua-cam.com/video/y3yQPEm11QA/v-deo.html
Thanks it’s only for my Blues Jr. Even my Marshall is 40w. Have u seen the ‘other’ attenuator build video where he adds an on off switch and another resistor?
Just came across this, considering doing it. I noticed when you turn the attenuator knob, it’s a little noisy. Is it the quality of the pot, can it be lubricated, or do you just live with it?
You must run a speaker cable from the amp to the attenuator, then another speaker cable from the attenuator to your speaker/s DO NOT USE PATCH CABLES :)
Hi Dave, thanks for showing us your build! :) I'm building one just like this now! But I have seen some people on forums saying that it won't actually handle 100W amplifiers. Have you tried it? I have two use cases for my l-pad attenuator: #1 in my apartment with my 50W Fender Prosonic (should work fine for this??) #2 When I'm doing FOH-sound for a rockband I'm working with. They use 100W heads (Marshall jcm800 2210) - in this case only some slight attenuation is needed. Just want to lower the volume on stage a smidge, not bring it down to bedroom level if you know what I mean. Will the L-pad melt??
It will work fine, the concept for this build is for people who are running amps at gig level but need to push it a little more rather than using it to crank your amp wide open at bedroom levels.
Not really but as I said in the video, your hearing perception is different at lower or higher volumes. Also at low volumes you are not pushing the speakers to working load :)
I tried this with a 50W marshall head, going into a 16 ohm cabinet. Obviously, I bought a 16 ohm 100W Lpad for the project, but it was a fail. I left the box open for better ventilation, but even at half volume on the lpad, and 5/8 volume coming out of the head, it was smoking the lpad. Great concept though!!!!!!!!!
1ST GOOD VIDEO THAT DOES WHAT THE TITTLE SAID... I JUST ORDERED ME L-PAD 16 OHM FROM EBAY. IT IS EITHER BUILD ONE OR BEAT THE SHIT OUT OF MY NEIGHBOR. COS THESE MARSHAL AMPS NEED TO CRANK IT UP LIKE A NASCAR .. THAT YOU FOR THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTION AND TEST .. KEEP ROCKING MAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Does anyone make a 200 Watt L Pad ? Would like to build a Guitar Attenuator - The Guitar Amp is 100 Watts - Rule of Thumb is double the wattage of the L Pad.
I have heard rumors you can pull 2 power tubes to back a 100 watt tube head down to 50 watt. Can anyone confirm this? I know the 100 watt tube heads can output 115-125 watts and would hate to melt down the head or the attenuator.
There is no need on a tranny amp, just turn it down. A tube amp needs to be cranked up to get the best tone, which is impossible at home without annoying the neighbours.
I think it would be good to use less wire and better quality jacks, insulating the terminals on the L-pad would be good too. A short or even open circuit on a valve amp output transformer is not good and could damage the amp. I don't understand why you faced the terminals away from the sockets either, surely the rotational direction of the knob would be the same regardless, the important part is wiring to the correct terminal. Attenuators are relatively cheap from Thomann, I'd suggest that would be a better buy and if it does trash your amp you have someone to complain to.
I'd mount the L-Pad 180° around in the opposite direction, So you will keep the leads shorter and cut down on noise. --- You strip to much wire- leaving a chance for shorts!! Sloppy, Sloppy!!!
Thanks for this video my friend! I have just ordered all the parts necessary for the build! Will be a much easier project than building an actual pedal for once haha!
1. You can buy this unit off Reverb for $55 already wired and totally complete as the "Speaker Soak"...BUT it has no ventilation holes. That's where the guy making these saved labor, because drilling the holes is the most tedious and time-consuming part of the build.
2. I made mine with $35 worth of parts (inc. tax and shipping) bought off Amazon. But in either case I would have had to drill the frickin' holes.
3. Make sure the L-pad is at least twice the rating of the amp's wattage. Amazon sells a 50-watt one for 16 smackers.
4. From the "you'd think I'd learn" dept.: I (once again - after a similar project) got happy drilling one of the holes for the jacks with a long (and large) drill bit, and the bit got caught and violently spun the project box around, slamming it into my wrist, cutting it, and also forming a huge lump and bruise. The box was also fractured and deformed around the hole. When I saw the damage that was done to the box, I figured I came out of the deal with no worse a physical injury.
5. Best approach is to use a step drill bit (a very handy device for drilling in metal). I had one I had been using, but I just got stupid and lazy with that hole. But at any rate, BE VERY CAREFUL DRILLING THEM HOLES!
6. Great video - thanks for posting!
Universal Audio has the $1000 "Ox Box", Dave Barlow has the under $50 "Bullock's Box" Had no idea that they were this simple to make, thanks for the tutorial Dave.
OK its official, its now called the 'Bullocks Box' LOL
Just want to let you know, an Ox box is 20 times the product that an L pad attenuator is...you really can't compare an ox box to this thing lolol
@@tw8245 Yeah, but Dave's Cab Simulations are so much nicer. He was really able to capture the room your in, Lol.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar Or would that be the "Bollocks Box"? ;-)
very informative video, exactly what I was looking for clear, concise instructions straight to the point. thanks a million mate
I hope these comments don't seem like I'm taking away from this project, I've built some of the L-Pad attenuators before and they are great tools to have. I just wanted to add a couple things.
1. The L-Pad rating is a bit deceptive. I'd be very nervous using one to bring your 100 watt Marshall down to bedroom levels. A 100 watt tube amp will put out more than 100 watts when it's cranked. These work best for 15 - 30 watt amps. 50 watts would be pushing it. They will get warm, that's normal, but if they get really hot you're asking for trouble.
2. Comparing these to expensive attenuators isn't really fair (sometimes). A lot of those expensive attenuators use a reactive load instead of a purely resistive load. The reactive load will sound more natural, especially when using it to really dial the volume back. Some expensive attenuators really are the same as this though. In that case the comparisons are fair.
Anyway, just wanted to make those things clear. These really are great tools. Go build one!
What is suitable as a reactive load for a 20w amp. I thought about just putting a ceramic resistor to attenuate just a bit. My problem is, I need bedroom levels and it's always a hassle to make dial it in at around 1, because it's either too loud or too silent and dull. But if a resistor will make the sound of the power amp sterile I don't want it either. So, then you need something like a speaker and you try to mute it? Or what is a good reactive load, cheap of course, LOL.
@@InTheSh8 Does your amp have a FX loop ? Try running a EQ or some other unit with a level control in the loop. Depending on your amp in terms of volume controls being pre or post loop you can use this method to reduce volume. As a example, I run a Peavey 6505+ combo FX loop into a rack FX. The channel output on the Amp is at 3 and the output of the FX rack is set to nearly 0. It is not quite the same as attenuation, or using a load box, but I think it is safer for your amp in the long run.
Thanks Dave , I will build one soon !!!
Excellent video! I just ordered one for my 5W single-ended heat. Can't wait to build it and try it.
Good luck!
There’s another version that goes in the Effects loop it’s wired the same but uses the effects loop instead of between the amp output and speaker .
Great video!!!Thanks for sharing knowledge 🤘🏻😎🎸
thanks a lot have a old jcm800 i needed this for
Thanks Dave for all your tips of the trade. You Da man
First !!! Haha, so nice to see a new video Dave... Hope you and the family are all well.. cheers
Damn dude. Thats awesome. I’ll see if I can find some 16 ohm here in the USA . I could use a 4 ohm myself.
Great video
I have a Two Notes Torpedo Captor 8 that I just want to attenuate slightly. It has full or -20db. I need -10db approx. I use a 16ohm cab that I use for dry only. I assume a 16 ohm L-pad would be adequate?
I have no idea what you are trying to do.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar I figured it out, when any speaker is connected to the Two Notes, the load goes to the speaker instead of the reactive load. I can use an L-pad type attenuator no problem between the Two Notes Torpedo Captor 8 and a speaker. The L-pad attenuator impedance just has to match the speaker when in use.
Would love to make one for my orange crush 120 going into my lane LX 4x12 cab
Hope everything is all good dude, not seen any new videos of yours so just watching the back catalogue just now with the current situation. would love to see you make a stompbox of some sort like a kit version, or even a housing upgrade of pedal. been looking at maybe sticking a berhinger sf300 in a metal housing as its an awesome sounding pedal but its housed in plastic.
This is essentially what the bugera ps1 and the harley benton soak use correct(minus the bells and whistles for the line outs and impedance switching)?
that is correct :)
Is the ohms going off of the cab or the actual amp, think my amp does 8ohm to 16 ohm and my cab is 8ohms
Thank you for this video. Question for you. Could I just use a 100k pot? I’m wanting to build one myself. Just want to know why use an LPAD over a regular pot.
NO, do not use a 100k pot, you need an LPad, here is the reason why: www.electronics-tutorials.ws/attenuators/l-pad-attenuator.html
Great!!!
I need one. Can you tell me the ohm of that Lpad?
Thanks
8ohm
Great vídeo! Congrats.
Excellent idea Dave, and great video!!! How would I make one for my old 100w 1959 Super Lead with two 16 ohm quad cabinets? Obviously the head is set to 8 ohm for the full stack. So, would I still use the 8ohm L Pad and wire two jacks for the output to speakers???
I wouldnt, prob best to get an ox or something like that.
Great video Dave, can you please explain the signal path from guitar to amp (or speaker) through Attenuator? How did you plug everything together?
From guitar amp speaker output 8ohms to attenuator input, attenuator output to speaker.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar thank you!
Might have to try this.
Would there be an easy way to add a second output on this? So that it also has an output to go to a mixing desk.
Forget it this is a steal at £48 www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_pa_100_power_attenuator.htm
Excellent video and demo, was thinking about this for a long time. Could I use this with a PRS MT15 that has master volume for lead and separate volume for clean? Luckily it has the 8Ohm output.
Go for it! but why if it already has a master volume?
@@DaveBarlowGuitar the taper is horrible, goes from 0 to 95% in quarter of a turn.
@@lorencing I think something is not right, that does not happen with mine.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar many MT15 owners complain about that, you can look it up on the PRS forum. Who knows, could be that they ran out of bat taper pots that day and had to use a good one for your amp hahah
Would a 16 ohm Lpad be better for heat than an 8ohm. And can you use a 16 ohm Lpad with an 8 ohm amp?
I cant get 16ohm versions
Thanks Dave! My amp is breaking up without it being cranked, hopefully we get less complaints now....
You and me both!
It does seem to get a bit hotter but I suppose that’s due to it being pushed more. Have yet to really test it, haven’t jammed since I built it....
Simply awesome!
I am not a musician but I want to build something similar to attenuate the audio coming out from a video game console (it has monster gain and produces a lot of distortion / clipping).
It's need around 3db attenuation, would this solution allow me to obtain such result?
Thanks for sharing and for your kind help :)
Hi a bit late to comment but all you might need is to build a pot with an input and output and just control the volume from there!
Awesome tutorial! Could you do the same thing with a PCB, or would it get too hot?
Yes you can but the Lpad will need to be mounted on some kind of heat sink.
Nice video. I built one. I like to test things with a meter before I try them. It doesn't do what I expect but from threads I've found it seems like I get similar reads than they did putting a meter accross it.
What's your approach to this? Do you check it in any way before risking your output transformer on it?
Oh yeah, also I notice you connected the ground terminal to both Jack's independently. What's your rational for that? I figure they're connected via the chassis already so I fought the urge...
I just built this and it works pretty good on my 40w hot rod deluxe. I’m using a 8ohm 100w lpad. My only beef is that it’s super sensitive, a slightly large movement on the lpad and it gets loud real quick. Any fixes for that?
not for this simple design, you could add a resistor or do this diy-fever.com/misc/air-brake-attenuator/
PUT A ANOTHER POT BETWEEN THE CENTER POLE OF THE LPAD AND THE GUITAR JACK THAT SHOULD DO IT FOR YOU
Thanks Dave great video. Quick question. Does the out from the attenuator have to go to same ohm speaker, or does that part not matter?
needs to match
Thanks for the video and schematic Dave. I'll have it built in the next couple of days (the diecast box I bought was slightly small for the L-Pad so I need to make some modifications to it) but hopefully it'll work just fine thanks to you. The thing I'm curious about is the way you installed your L-Pad the lugs away from the input/output jacks. I'm no technician but isn't it a matter of just turning the shaft all the way anti-clockwise & then putting the indicator plate (if you're using it,) which ever way you'd like it and the knob so it points where-ever you want zero/off to be? No matter which way around you put the L-Pad, 0% will be all the way to the left & 100% will be all the way to the right won't it? Is there something I'm not seeing in my ignorance?
check the schematic, if you wire it back to front it will break.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar I get what you're saying. Thanks again for making it so easy to tame a loud amp for bedroom use at an affordable price.
Nice build Dave. Just one suggestion however. Clarify the ground wires solder to the sleeve of the jacks. Hot wires go to the jack tips, just the tips.
there is a link to the schematic :)
It's easier to get the impedance you want by using a voltage divider (two resistors, e.g. two 25ohm resistors, one to ground, one to output), then a rheostat to fine tune the attenuation level.
I'm looking for just this - searching for schematics
What would be an acceptable gauge wire to use?
Bit late to this party. Where do you get Lpads from Dave? Link? (UK).
ebay mostly
Nice work Dave, I had no idea they were this simple. I've a Peavey Classic 50, do I have to put another input for the speakers? Sorry that I'm being thick, electrics aren't my thing, I just wonder how it would work on a combo.
If the speaker output is hard wired to the amp you will need to modify the speaker wire, if you are not sure might be best to get a qualified person on it.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar Thanks Dave, appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Hi Dave, very good video of yours and not to mention the attenuator that you made yourself sorry for the inconvenience but could you tell me what it is and what do you call it Lap? I am from Buenos Aires Argentina and as you will know here everything comes out double or triple its value, so I would appreciate if you take the donkey out a little and tell me what the Lap is and where to buy or order it, thank you very much and big hug bro ...
L-pad Attenuator made by Monacor www.monacor.com
@@DaveBarlowGuitar David very grateful for your time and very good vibes when answering my question !!! , really what I need is to build a reactive load box, not an attenuator there is my fault when asking so lightly, I was confused a thousand apologies, I think that the attenuator would not fulfill the same function as reactive load box, so well I do not get you more time, again more than grateful for your help, I send you a big hug Bro ...
What I am trying to build would be something like this for my 100wtts tube amp ...ua-cam.com/video/y3yQPEm11QA/v-deo.html
Is this really all a speaker attenuator consists of? 3 parts and an enclosure?? I salute you sir
Yep, but if you have a 100 watt amp cranked it could get a bit hot :)
Thanks it’s only for my Blues Jr. Even my Marshall is 40w. Have u seen the ‘other’ attenuator build video where he adds an on off switch and another resistor?
Yes but kept mine simple for others to copy. :)
couldn't see the parts list where do i get the lpad thanks
dont need one, just watch the vid :)
Hi I’m going to by a evh wolf gang standard do you think it’s worth it??
yes, In hindsight I would have gone for a standard rather than a special.
Just about to purchase it now see you the next time you come to the Henry 6 pub!!!
Hi there! Can I use it with transistors amps?
Yes
Cool
Just came across this, considering doing it. I noticed when you turn the attenuator knob, it’s a little noisy. Is it the quality of the pot, can it be lubricated, or do you just live with it?
I live with it as it does not affect the sound, its just one of those things.
Perfect dave, thanks, twang
What gauge wire should I use? Thanks
18 or 16
Thanks for the video, I've got the parts on order for
You must run a speaker cable from the amp to the attenuator, then another speaker cable from the attenuator to your speaker/s DO NOT USE PATCH CABLES :)
How long is that going to last?
Hi Dave, thanks for showing us your build! :)
I'm building one just like this now! But I have seen some people on forums saying that it won't actually handle 100W amplifiers. Have you tried it?
I have two use cases for my l-pad attenuator:
#1 in my apartment with my 50W Fender Prosonic (should work fine for this??)
#2 When I'm doing FOH-sound for a rockband I'm working with. They use 100W heads (Marshall jcm800 2210) - in this case only some slight attenuation is needed. Just want to lower the volume on stage a smidge, not bring it down to bedroom level if you know what I mean. Will the L-pad melt??
It will work fine, the concept for this build is for people who are running amps at gig level but need to push it a little more rather than using it to crank your amp wide open at bedroom levels.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar Cheers mate. Yes this is my thoughts exactly! It’s gonna make my FoH gigs much easier 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I feel something was missing at 21:48 sir. You failed to label the knob as "Shake it all about". Just saying.
Does it change the sound of the amp?
Not really but as I said in the video, your hearing perception is different at lower or higher volumes. Also at low volumes you are not pushing the speakers to working load :)
Dumb question, will this work in on fender reverb deluxe?
Dumb answer, probably but designed to be used on non master volume amps 50w or smaller.
@@DaveBarlowGuitar which is what a d.r. Is mate.
I tried this with a 50W marshall head, going into a 16 ohm cabinet. Obviously, I bought a 16 ohm 100W Lpad for the project, but it was a fail. I left the box open for better ventilation, but even at half volume on the lpad, and 5/8 volume coming out of the head, it was smoking the lpad. Great concept though!!!!!!!!!
100 watt Lpad will get hot but not that hot check you wired it up correctly :)
I thought I had it wired correctly, It does work for a short period before starting to smoke. possibly a weak solder connection????
@@n9723x what rating is the Lpad, needs to be 100w
yes, it is a 100W Lpad, 16 ohms, the impedance of my Marshall cabinet
Is that a 3/8 inch attenuator or 1 in
1ST GOOD VIDEO THAT DOES WHAT THE TITTLE SAID... I JUST ORDERED ME L-PAD 16 OHM FROM EBAY. IT IS EITHER BUILD ONE OR BEAT THE SHIT OUT OF MY NEIGHBOR. COS THESE MARSHAL AMPS NEED TO CRANK IT UP LIKE A NASCAR .. THAT YOU FOR THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTION AND TEST ..
KEEP ROCKING MAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Does anyone make a 200 Watt L Pad ? Would like to build a Guitar Attenuator - The Guitar Amp is 100 Watts - Rule of Thumb is double the wattage of the L Pad.
I have heard rumors you can pull 2 power tubes to back a 100 watt tube head down to 50 watt. Can anyone confirm this? I know the 100 watt tube heads can output 115-125 watts and would hate to melt down the head or the attenuator.
yes you can (with many amps)but I would buy an attenuator if you need to lower the output, its the best way.
How could I add a padded down Line Output to run into an interface for recording with IR's?
Some additional work would be required for this, but I know that some ettenuators come with a line output which would suit your purpose.
Just need a 600 ohms pick up resistor in the way.
No schematic, Dave?
no, you dont need one :)
does it work in any ohm level?
no this one is 8 ohm, you have to purchase the right Lpad
Be very careful, these L-pads work their best on 50 watt amps and lower. This would be perfect for a 30 watt amplifier.
You are right! they can get a bit hot.
Does this work for transistor amps? if yes, where can I find a 100w 8 Ohms Attenuator?
yes they are used for all sorts of applications
There is no need on a tranny amp, just turn it down. A tube amp needs to be cranked up to get the best tone, which is impossible at home without annoying the neighbours.
I think it would be good to use less wire and better quality jacks, insulating the terminals on the L-pad would be good too. A short or even open circuit on a valve amp output transformer is not good and could damage the amp. I don't understand why you faced the terminals away from the sockets either, surely the rotational direction of the knob would be the same regardless, the important part is wiring to the correct terminal. Attenuators are relatively cheap from Thomann, I'd suggest that would be a better buy and if it does trash your amp you have someone to complain to.
common ground?
?
@@DaveBarlowGuitar these jacks are not isolated?
Here's one that is 16 Ohms: www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-l-pad-attenuator-100w-mono-3-8-shaft-16-ohm--260-261
Thanks Greg :)
I'd mount the L-Pad 180° around in the opposite direction, So you will keep the leads shorter and cut down on noise.
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You strip to much wire- leaving a chance for shorts!! Sloppy, Sloppy!!!