How to use a Manual Tuner with your Ham Radio Rig
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- When I was a new ham, these things really intimidated me - so much so that I went out and bought an automatic tuner. Today I show you how I learned to ... like... these things. They really aren't all that scary.
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The balun inside is 4:1
it is usually possible to find more than one 'tuned' knob setting combination
you should always use a tune with the LEAST INDUCTANCE to prevent arcing and circulating current losses (!!!)
on all these MfJ tuners least inductance is on L position K is more J is more and A is the most.
The lower the frequency the more inductance you are going to need
on 10 or 11 meters you will usually need about L or K amount of inductance
on 160 meters you will usually need to use the A inductance setting (the most)
on 160 meters the power handling of this 300 watt tuner is usually no more than abt 100 watts
on 20 meters you will usually be somewhere close to J amount of inductance
on 40 meters you will usually be somewhere close to G amount of inductance
if your tuned settings are wildly different - some ting wong
the way to tune is to first set the inductance (start from less) and listen for most noise ( both caps about 50%)
make radio transmit a steady carrier at less than 50% max power
(if you don't want to make old timers cringe use the cw mode - never FM unless on 10m FM)
and use both hands to turn both capacitors to cover all combinations meaning
left hand at min - try entire right hand range
increase left hand a bit -try entire right hand range
increase left hand a bit -try entire right hand range and so on.
if no tune increase inductance and repeat
ground usually helps especially if you hear electrical arcs inside (reduce power)
if you get rf burns - enjoy!
it is extremely rare to not be able to find a tune with near 1:1 swr (except on 160)
all an antenna tuner does is it adds inductance or capacitance or both to the antenna system
in turn doing that will also change the resistive element.
antenna system is antenna+coax (or ladderline)
the higher the swr before tuning the more power you will waste in the coax
ladder line will waste less power with same mismatch
Excellent points, thanks for sharing!
Terrific info, thanks!
I got the inductance wrong. I thought A was the least inductance. It seems I have to do the calibrations again. Thanks!
Many dont realize , matching works both ways. Receive and transmit. You can get close by listening to your receiver noise on the band your tuming. Start with lowest inductance first then rapid tune load and tune capacitors. If no change go up one inductance tap ( on the inductor switch ) and do the capacitors again. You will hit a indictance letter that raises the background receiver noise alot! Then tune a signal going back and forth between tune and load capacitors. Now you are very close. Fine tune with a small transmit power.
Good tips!
You're the only Ham enthusiast I have seen on UA-cam who knows or cares enough to keep, indicate, and refer to notes and credible knowledge sources. You employ many accessory parts. You "do stuff".
Instead, I waste countless time seeing superfluous reviews made by wild-eyed Tubers using no instrumentation (or often even turning the equipment "on"). Apparently, only to collect free stuff from the sellers.
Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. I know what you're talking about... I love to experiment and share.
Hi TO - I have the same model tuner which I bought second hand. I use my cheap Nano-VNA to quickly tune it. I've found this to give me better results when I'm not in a hurry.
This is a great idea. Now I want to try it. Thanks!
Great explanation!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks! Send me a private message if you have an FT-891 please
Thank you! Only vid I've seen that talks about rtty to be able to see the needle move.
Gotta put some fire in that wire!
Hi. A couple of notes. Start with the Transmitter and Antenna controls set at 5. Set the Inductor control at the lowest inductance setting. On the 949E, this will be L. However, on most older MFJ tuners the lowest inductance setting is A. Turn the inductor knob 1 letter at a time, until the noise is loudest. When transmitting, use low power in AM or CW mode. Then adjust the Transmitter and Antenna controls to get a 1:1 SWR. The built in tuners in many radios will only work if SWR is 3:1 or less. Manual tuners will work with higher SWR. Resonant antennas are best, but not always possible.
Thanks, that's perfect.
Well done 👏
Thanks Rob!
Good video TO, I stared at a few of these this weekend at Huntsville.
They are nice to play with and can probably match just about anything.
@@temporarilyoffline ugh I should had bought one.
@@K5YVY Next Time!
Nice little tuner. I got one when I first got my general license. I still have it. You gave a good demo. That is pretty much how I do it. I currently use the 1500 watt version with the roller inductor. Like you I do inductance first then the radio cap. Then the antenna cap second. Then back and forth between radio and antenna. Great tuner I still have it. Wanted to do the same thing and have the antenna built for it.
Thanks!
I own that tuner but I don't use it very well. Thank you for the explanation. I'll try it again.
They are great once you figure out the tricks!
Me too. Didn't realise it has a dummy load until it was mentioned in the video. Gotta get more light in the shack.
I've just purchased a s/h Emtron tuner, hopefully I'll be brave enough to give it a go soon.
You Got This!
How about a manual tuner for QRO operation. Saw a tube HF linear, is it worth using a manual tuner or can it all be matched with the tube “matching”.
They do make QRO tuners, the one in this video is good for 300w, but I have a video coming out with a 600w tuner.
If you have a radio with a build in ATU turn it off if you want to use an external tuner. Two tuners will not work. Also don't transmit when turning the middle knob. Did that once and that was not a good idea. :-) .
Pro Tips!
BOTH TUNERS OR ANY AMOUNT OF DAISY CHAINED TUNERS WILL WORK but (!!!!!) a special procedure will be necessary to deal with it so DO NOT DO IT unless you specifically know what you're doing. and there is no need for that until you want to extend the tuning range even further....
I have a MFJ 969 Versa Tuner II roller inductor 300 watt tuner which I hardly ever use now that I no longer have my old Kenwood TS-430S. I now have a Yaesu 991a which has an internal tuner which will handle all my antennae. All my antennae are pretty close to resonate so the 991a handles it quite well. You know, tuners are not really tuners; they're simply an adjustable box that fools your radio into seeing a perfect 50 ohm load. I was wanting to learn how to tune a random wire but I cannot find any videos on this. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Thanks for watching! I would tune a random wire using the dame method I showed in this video - the radio and tuner don't know what they are connected to, they just do the job. In the case of the versatuners, just disconnect the jumper on the back and go for it.
Thanks for sharing. However, it is important to pick the least inductance possible for a good match.
Agreed
Thank you for the video. Once matched/tune do you have to match each time your change frequencies within the same band? If so tune for lower and upper portion of the band?
Hey Rod! It depends on the size of the band in question. 80m for example is physically large - like 5m from the bottom of the band to the top of the band - where other bands have a large amount of kHz available but aren't much longer physically... So the short answer is "yes", but it depends on a lot of factors.
What I suggest, if you're using one antenna is to make a guide-book - this freq needs X,Y,Z parameters on the dial - 3,A,7 at 14.074 for example - and then if you head up the band from there and find SWR not to your liking, adjust and make note. After a while, you'll have the whole band mapped.
You can turn the outer knobs while you're in a QSO and dial in the SWR better, but you shouldn't move the center knob while TXing.
Hope that helps!
It does thank you much!!!
Interesting video. Thank you for your work on this topic.
Do you have video(s) that address the use of remote tuners placed at or near the base of the antenna?
Thanks!
73,
John KK7JBZ
I don't have any personal experience with those, sorry.
Did you say that if we have a tween lead cable and a coax cable tip Can we Connect it to any of the coax 1 or coax 2 ?
Yes, with a 1:1 (or better) balun. But you can also connect it to the Terminals on the back directly and use the internal balun.
Great video. I have been struggling with the nuances as I learn this process with a small MFJ Tuner. And have had some success using the manual. Your video filled in a lot of helpful details that I missed (and probably don't belong) in the manual. Thanks
Glad it helped!
I've had an MFJ-945E for 4+ years, and never really knew how to effectively use it. You've given such useful instructions, I'm going to pull it back out and become familiar with it. Who knows, it may go into my go-kit. Keeps up the great videos.
Thanks Aaron, let me know how it works out for you.
I like the cross needles. But even at low power I get nervous keying the mike - on am - for too long. What I need is a linear that uses vacuum tubes as the power output rf amplifiers.
I love vacuum tubes!
The fact that they are electrically durable makes vacuum tubes very useful devices. But it is also fun thinking about the electrons that are flying through empty space between the various grids and the plate of a tube during operation!
So, when you turn the inductor knob, you look for the minimun noise? IW7EEQ
Maximum noise -- that means the antenna is getting happier. The inductor is the "big change" knob, then you have to play with the capacitors which are much finer adjustments.
Thank you for posting another video right before I even knew I might need it. I think I can extrapolate to my 7300 and hopefully another antenna than the mag loop.
This will work with any antenna, but the built in cap on a mag loop is a much better tool. This tuner will also work with any radio, I just happened to have the 705 handy. I first used it with my Yaesu FT-891, then with the 7300, then with some older Kenwoods. Very useful tool to have in your toolbox.
Love my old dentron super tuner best 100$ I ever spent
Dentron makes some really nice gear.
We always say "tuna" when referencing these devices.😊
Nice!
Great job TO. Love hearing those band selector switches click
Chonky! I love the old hardware!
I just bout a MFJ-949D at a ham fest. I am new to all this but. I can not get mine to tune a thing. It has bad SWR in byepass.
Hello William, on the antenna selector dial, there should be a bypass side as well as a tuner side. Are you on the right side there? Are you seeing any power on the meter?
in bypass the swr reading is the swr of your antenna system. if you removed the tuner completely the swr should be almost the same.
if it is not than the coaxial cable between radio and the tuner is bad or way too long, it should be as short as possible.
also you can open the tuner and troubleshoot the connections if necessary, it should be self explanatory when you see it.
sometimes the mfj minions create bad solder joints inside...
You will need to use the coax 1, coax 2 or the Bal. Line/Wire positions, depending on which feed-line type you are using, to use the tuner to get a match, not the direct settings on the Antenna Selector switch.
The manual for the "D" model is available from several sources on line.
The only difference between the "D" and the "E" models is the Antenna Selector Switch. The "D" model only has one dummy load position and the "E" has one on both the tuned and bypass sides of the antenna selector switch.
Also the "D" model is labeled Coax Direct 1 and 2 and Coax 1 and 2 with the Coax 1 and 2 positions being the the tuned positions. The manual for the "E" model (available from MFJ as a free PDF download) can be used with the "D" model if you keep these differences in mind..
I hope this helps.
73,
John, N1WOM
Good job To
Thanks Hobo!
That average meter reading is not really accurate because it just uses a capacitive hold. Some of the newer ones like the 962 echo or the 989 Delta have an active true peak reading capability but requires the 12 volts for those active circuits. They also light the meter as well. On the 949e which I also have, the forward and reverse power readings are only accurate for the average as the peak as I said is not a true Peak reading. The 962E and the 989D however are good to go for true Peak readings although remember these are still mfj products and even products from other companies will never be as good as a good Berd power meter.
Thanks for the info!
@@temporarilyoffline no problem. I've had my 949e for sometime but recently I acquired both an AL-82 amplifier and an AL-811h. I needed something with a little bit more power handling capabilities so I got myself mfj 989 d. That's a full legal limit. By the way I agree with you and while looking at the cross needles is nice, I rely on the SWR meter on my radio when I'm actually turning the manual tuner. I get a better graphic indicator of what's going on with my SWR and then I just use my cross indicator to confirm it's in the same vicinity. I'm not sure I remember you mentioning this but apparently is very important that when possible you should have the largest possible capacitive value and the lowest possible inductor value. Anyway I thought it was a pretty good video. Take care
Not just a tuner right, it works as a SWR power meter??
It sure does!
@@temporarilyoffline Ok Im new'ish to this and learning, so good to know.
Manual tuners are a "concept to grasp", but I feel like its one of those skills that will hold you very well in your ham journey.
Can you use two coax and not 450 ladder line🙃
Interesting question - I'm sure the answer is yes... followed by Why? -- and the answer to that is Why Not?
I would suspect that if you're going to use two coax, you would be using the braids of each as you left and right side trying to mimic ladder line properties.
Just a guess, would be a fun experiment.
@@temporarilyoffline I was thinking of using the center connector and zip try the coax together. The spacing would be greater. You would have a bigger connector. I have used rg213 and it worked fine. Even with mighty fine junk lol
when you use two coaxes as balanced line the impedance of such transmission line will be twice that of the single coax used.
connect both braids together and DO NOT connect them to anything else on either end
(could experiment connecting braids at tuner end to ground lug optionally)
Do u have to turn your internal tuner off or put on external or leave on
Some people will tell you to not use 2 tuners at the same time, but there are times when it's useful. This external tuner is more capable than almost every internal tuner. So operate in the way that gets you on the air the easiest and have fun!
@@temporarilyofflineI'm using 991a yaesu can't seem to get swr down with the manual tuner wonder if my settings need changing in menu to turn internal tuner off or change to external or lamp what ever that is
For the 991a, first start with the tuner off, then use the manual tuner to bring the antenna into close match, then if you still feel like it, use the internal tuner to get you that final touch up @@steveacab77
@@temporarilyofflineso turn off or put on to external whats is lamp for
Just turn it off. "LAMP" stands for "linear amplifier" and is a way that Yaesu operates on a port on the back of the radio to control some amps or tuners. @@steveacab77
Outstanding, manual not much help to me either, I’m new. Get the same ant tuner soon. Thanks 73 KO4ZCJ
Glad it helped
Hey Steve those 300W Waffle Makers are good enough for qrp radios. I fried every single one of them (3) fried up in just a short time with a lousy 100W TRX. The only model that survived is the Comet CAT-300. The Vectronics and MFJ' models became party poopers sooner or later. Great video buddy, hope we can make contact on the Bands real soon. 73's de Your Friend Uncle Guenter from the German Frontier.
I spend more time on FT8 than anything else... That would be the best place to find me! Looking forward to a QSO
@@temporarilyoffline As long as my tongue still works fine and able to say the Words I will always prefer the V2V Mode (Voice to Voice) FT4 and FT8 is made to those HAM's who shut the Lights down before getting naked and humping the (X)YL. Many of them even leaving their clothes on to make sure they won't freeze their wieners off. Just saying...😎. Ok buddy, hope we can make it happen soner or later hopefully before the Reaper comes knocking at my door. Happy wednesday
@@DK5ONV I haven't froze anything off yet, so it must be working!
@@temporarilyoffline 😂😂😂👍
It depends on how to operate them. It depends on the frequency, the SWR on the antenna the power level, and the MODE. FT8 is horrendous on tuners and amps. You can't run FT8 at 300W with a 300watt tuner. Same thing with AM mode. One quarter of the PEP rating is suggested by MFJ.
Hey, no yeah, Kinda figured something along those lines of how it worked. No I know for sure. Thanks.
HLTW TeamReplay for the win!
And Knowing is Half the Battle!
You should have asked if the frequency was in use before tuning up. Very poor form here.
Good idea!
@@temporarilyoffline AA5XO here. I was told by another ham that if you tune on FM you won't interfere with anyone, even if the frequency is occupied. I haven't tested that theory, though.
👍
🙏
megabucks for those on a pension!
These things are cheap at hamfests or SK sales.
@@temporarilyoffline will hunt about cheers!
Your local club probably has a spare or two laying around.
NEVER apply power when tuning INDUCTOR! READ THE MANUAL! This is a tutorial of what NOT to do when tuning a manual tuner. One of the greatest advantages of Manual Transmatch is that you can tune without transmitting even using it with receive only radio. Again READ the MANUAL its a very Simple process.
Thanks for sharing, I demonstrated that in the video, but probably didn't say it out loud.
@@temporarilyoffline Actually, you did say it.
Thanks Stan!
You do hear better.
Yeah you do!