This is a great video. I have the same issue with the door on a 70s Holiday Rambler, and I've assumed there is a break about where the lock goes through. I've been wondering what I would find inside and this pretty much confirms how I thought the door is constructed. Fortunately, my door window is easily removable so I'll be able to completely disassemble the door. I may replace the wood with LVL for its additional rigidity. I'll also replace any cardboard filler with rigid foam. Thanks for the help, and I'm looking forward to your work on the HR.
Jim, Thanks for the comment! I think the LVL is a great idea. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. I'm looking forward to making progress on the HR and posting lots more videos. Anything specifically that you would like to see? Thanks for watching!
These doors wood seem to measure 1 1/2 x2 inches.the width doesn't matter as much as the height because you can trim the insulation back to fit.but you cannot go with a thicker board because of the metal trim and other reasons
Looks great. i have a tt and i am dying to change the lock for a lock like the one you have. how difficult do you think that could be. is it possible.? do you know of any how to do videos? thanks.
+mimi taylor Hi Mimi. I would say it's doable, depending on what kind of lock you're going from and to. I haven't seen a video specific to that but there are more and more all the time. Thanks for watching.
I've really enjoyed your Frolic rebuild series. I'm currently remodeling a 1967 Bell Coach camper similar to yours. Some things I wish you would have touched on more are electricity and the plumbing. Did you install a new toilet? Did you add on Black and Gray water tanks? How did you go about hooking up the 120 and 12 volt lights? Etc. Future videos??
Andy, thanks for the comments and suggestions! I may try to add some videos like these in the future. A little more 411... I did install a new toilet. There was an existing black tank below it. There is no gray tank. The sink water just runs out so we have to have a sewer connection or use the external gray water tank on wheels. The 120 was easy as I just connected things back to the original wiring which looked good. Haven't connected 12V lights yet. The wiring is there I just have to connect it. Thanks for watching!
Hello Randy. Sorry but I don't remember the thickness. I don't think it was a standard size like 1.5". I believe I just ripped the correct thickness on the table saw. Thanks for watching!
I used a 2x4 and ripped it down to match the size of the original piece. I don’t know the exact dimensions however. Looks like about 1 1/2” x 1”. Thanks for watching!
Why did you not install a flat bar on top of the inside edge of the wood piece instead of cutting a slot for the rod ? The door system has failed once before. Improvement is needed.
Mary, thanks for your comment! That would have been a good alternative. I figured that since the trailer is 49 years old, if it lasts another 49 years, I'll be happy 😊
Great video, thanks. I think you could be the Bob Ross of vintage trailer repair...
+Joshua Shepherd LOL - I guess I'll take that as a complement! :-)
My yellowstone has the same trouble! Thankyou for walking us through this.
I have a 1968 Frolic that is nearly identical in its shape and contours. Same door problem, too!
It’s probably broken in the same place. Not the best design. But these are 50 year old trailers 😊.
that's how my dolphin door right now this video gave me an idea to fix mine. Thanks for your sharing.
That was good work Richard. This video helped me with mine... Thank you...
Great video.i had the same problem you did.i mean exactly.the rot etc.i did everything you did and it came out great .ty for making this.happy camper.
Nice job
This is a great video. I have the same issue with the door on a 70s Holiday Rambler, and I've assumed there is a break about where the lock goes through. I've been wondering what I would find inside and this pretty much confirms how I thought the door is constructed. Fortunately, my door window is easily removable so I'll be able to completely disassemble the door. I may replace the wood with LVL for its additional rigidity. I'll also replace any cardboard filler with rigid foam. Thanks for the help, and I'm looking forward to your work on the HR.
Jim, Thanks for the comment! I think the LVL is a great idea. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. I'm looking forward to making progress on the HR and posting lots more videos. Anything specifically that you would like to see? Thanks for watching!
That saw you used on the door sounded like a Dentist drill. Gave me the shudders.
These doors wood seem to measure 1 1/2 x2 inches.the width doesn't matter as much as the height because you can trim the insulation back to fit.but you cannot go with a thicker board because of the metal trim and other reasons
Looks great. i have a tt and i am dying to change the lock for a lock like the one you have. how difficult do you think that could be. is it possible.? do you know of any how to do videos? thanks.
+mimi taylor Hi Mimi. I would say it's doable, depending on what kind of lock you're going from and to. I haven't seen a video specific to that but there are more and more all the time. Thanks for watching.
I've really enjoyed your Frolic rebuild series. I'm currently remodeling a 1967 Bell Coach camper similar to yours. Some things I wish you would have touched on more are electricity and the plumbing. Did you install a new toilet? Did you add on Black and Gray water tanks? How did you go about hooking up the 120 and 12 volt lights? Etc. Future videos??
Andy, thanks for the comments and suggestions! I may try to add some videos like these in the future. A little more 411... I did install a new toilet. There was an existing black tank below it. There is no gray tank. The sink water just runs out so we have to have a sewer connection or use the external gray water tank on wheels. The 120 was easy as I just connected things back to the original wiring which looked good. Haven't connected 12V lights yet. The wiring is there I just have to connect it. Thanks for watching!
andyhbeyer y
what was the thickness of the internal wood you used as replacements?
Hello Randy. Sorry but I don't remember the thickness. I don't think it was a standard size like 1.5". I believe I just ripped the correct thickness on the table saw. Thanks for watching!
Hi, have a very similar yellow stone. The glass got broken out by the previous owner and he just put a board over it. thoughts on how to replace?
Timothy I wish I had some ideas on how to do that. I have not had to replace glass in a door before. Sorry I could not help! Good luck!
Is the door stuffing just cardboard?
Yep, I took my door off to make repairs and had the same problem on my 74 Shasta 1400.
Why would they mount these doors to open like that in the first place? Glad I won't have to do that to my 88 holiday rambler
what size wood are you using?
I used a 2x4 and ripped it down to match the size of the original piece. I don’t know the exact dimensions however. Looks like about 1 1/2” x 1”. Thanks for watching!
Why did you not install a flat bar on top of the inside edge of the wood piece instead of cutting a slot for the rod ? The door system has failed once before. Improvement is needed.
Mary, thanks for your comment! That would have been a good alternative. I figured that since the trailer is 49 years old, if it lasts another 49 years, I'll be happy 😊
I have a Frolic! The doors aren't secured either.