Manufacturer of my valve, Hunter, said to use Teflon tape on the threaded connection. I would also recommend dry fitting the pvc and marking the full insertion position on the pipe with a marker. That way you can tell if you have pushed the pipe down fully.
Just a heads up, you should apply PVC primer, let it sit for a few minutes before applying the glue. The primer softens the PVC so you get a solid perfect joint. And you should apply glue to both sodes of the joint....ie, fitting and pipe Also, you should be using Teflon tape on the plastic threads. Maybe not required, but good practice. I am sure for the little water pressure that runs to our homes it should be fine the way you did it. But, regardless you should know the right way, especially if you are making a DIY video. As a 20yr Union Pipefitter, I have had lots of practice.
@@arrealhandymanservice4459 They do have a clear primer, your local big box store should carry it. If not a plumbing outfit would. www.amazon.com/Oatey-30751-House-Primers-Clear/dp/B004SMUJWA/ref=asc_df_B004SMUJWA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193128962117&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11799944504939371826&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061283&hvtargid=pla-340660674924&psc=1
WestCoastMods yes I checked I picked up the purple primer and the red hot I just don’t like how messy it looks after so I found clear cleaner and clear glue.. I’ll try an actual plumbing supply hope they have clear and also quick drying and good to use while wet.
Take it to the next level and use pipe dope, tape, then dope again for threaded fittings. Also use a fine sandpaper or emory cloth to take the finish off the pipe, then primer, then cement. No leaks...
@@LogicofChaos7871 Yep. I have done a thousand of them exactly described. I have also been told that pipe dope and tape are not needed with PVC and I know pros who swear by that claim. They say they have done hundreds/thousands of joints over decades and no leaks w/o dope or tape. I sleep better with the dope/tape/dope method. I have never known anyone who joined PVC w/o primer.
@@JohnnyC10071959 it’s always better to do the most especially if you’re in the landscaping business and fix a lot of these like myself I do all these extra steps so the clients are sure about what I’m doing and they won’t be saying anything like “oh you only cut the pipe and glue the other one on and you’re charging me this much” but if your doing it at your own home or a buddys all those steps aren’t required
Excellent video! Was quoted 500$ to replace valves. After watching this no way I’m paying that. 100$ for 4 valves and what an hour of my time and I’m set. Thank you!
Would have been nice to see the addition of the 3/4 to 3/4 female unions on the pipe coming from the ground. Also, always use primer before the glue, as it makes a better seal and teflon tape on the threads for a better seal. Really liked removing the cylinoid first before removing the old valve as I'm not too nifty with the wires.
Thanks so much for this video. A few of my valves just broke, and a gardener wanted to charge us $400 to replace them. After watching this video, I know I can do it myself for just the cost of parts, and a little time. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the video, first time finding the page as well! subscribed right away! I have to tackle this project this weekend for the first time, thanks for breaking it down! i was going to hire a guy and spend God knows what to have one solenoid replaced. I feel pretty confident I can tackle this project on my own now. Thank you!
Couple things I noticed. First, I can buy those at my local Home Depot, and they have pretty good ratings. I bought a couple to replace my brass ones instead of rebuilding them. Secondly, they recommend you somehow attach the pvc to the inlet side and try it first to check for leaks before assembling the outlet side. I haven't figured out how to do that part yet. Anybody have suggestions, that would be great. Other than that, thank you for the video. It helped me out, especially using the clamp.
without reading the instructions on the pvc glue, I recall quarter turns on fittings to make certain the glue contacts fully. I probably would have spun those unions, and sanded them a bit. maybe that's a bit more belt and suspenders... thanks for posting the video!
Great video. Noticed the step of gluing the fittings to the cut ends of the pipes were not shown in the video. Also didn’t see the tape to the threads before connecting! Still very helpful though, thank you
Your Video was excellent. I also took advice of "Just me " in adding a teflon tape to the groves before threading the valve. I also used primer. This is the first time I attempted to replace the valve and I just completed it. Here are some f the issues I face as a novice first time installer. You have to deep deep and a big circumference if you want to use the pipe cutter to cut the pipes coming out of the ground. I was not able to cut it properly. so I had to use my drummer tool, to make it even and sand the top. So that no debris go into the pipe I stuffed it with cloth which I removed after all the sanding, cutting, planing was done. So being new at this, I had to do extra work to make smooth and level. Also I might have used too much glue, i don't know what is too much but my glue application was dripping slightly. I also found the old pipe coming out of the ground had glue drippings, hence I had to sand it , with a sand paper as well as my dremel kit. It took me 2 hours more than it would have taken a professional. But I must say, this excellent video gave me the courage to complete the installation of the new valve. That valve was I believe defective , because any time I opened any zone , that defective zone always went on and the sprinklers came alive, I just turned on a few zones to check if the problem was solved and Eureka it was solved, Installation successful. I want to let the readers know, this is not an easy task.... not at least the very first time. I had all the tools and I am also an engineer by profession. I have 40 Valves in my property, thank you for saving me a ton of money.
Thank you. Very clear and easy to follow. One question: When connecting the wires, how do you know which of the wires on the new valve is the control wire and which is the ground? It looks like they both have the same white stripe.
Kind of makes you a little bit worried though. Especially if it doesn’t work the next day. I’m gonna let my glue cure and see how it works the next day after about 24 hours.
Awesome Video. Just noticed tho, that your link to the valve is different from the one you used in this video (solenoid has a handle which i prefer:) but could not find it anywhere. Thanks
I went with Orbit since my sprinkler system uses Orbit controller and these cost a lot less than Rainbird and have six year warranty. Good call about doing cleanup of the area before install. I had a bunch of bamboo bushes blocking easy access to mine and used a pruning blade on my sawzall to remove these as working in the area would be a nightmare with all the bushes in the way.
Just a note to wrap the male threads of the PVC adapters with teflon tape or a bit of clear silicone. Without it those threaded connections are going to leak.
Excellent video and advice. I hate the Teflon tape so I use the tube of Teflon. Easier for me. I also don’t like the PVC cutters so I use a sawsall with a metal blade And then clean the burs off with a piece of sandpaper.Easy Peezy
Cool video bro. Very well informed and easy to follow. Any suggestions anyone about dealing with galvanized risers? Since I can't cut them off, how do I get the valve off of them?
If the valves are threaded on (Im guessing they are) cut the valve in half with a hack saw and spin them off. A viewer had posted this video, his steps should help you: ua-cam.com/video/60GpCg6QvJ0/v-deo.html
2:39 Before you unscrew the solenoids, you may want to mark them with something like #1 , #2, and #3 and restore them later so afterward the signal from the valve timer still goes to the correct valve.
If you're tired of cutting and gluing and extending sprinkler riser pipe over and over again, look into sharkbite fittings. Google UIP134. Screw that part into the sprinkler valve threaded connections, and just press it down onto the PVC pipe and you're done. If the valve goes bad or needs a vinegar soak, slip two sharkbite disconnect tools under the fittings, and lift. Pop, off comes the valve so you can take it apart and vinegar soak it to remove hard water deposits. No glue. No waiting.
Just don't forget to turn the water off and bleed off the pressure before popping them off. I added stainless ball valves on the input side so I could shut off the water prior to removing the valve. They're about $10 on ebay. I have to service these sprinkler valves annually with a vinegar soak due to hard water deposits. The sharkbite fittings and shut-off valve cut hours off the project time. I've inserted and removed the same PVC stubs 4 times now; no appreciable wear and no leaks. They really work well.
I use an adapter from Home Depot, etc, that's all PVC, and much cheaper (www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-PVC-Compression-x-Male-Repair-Adapter-511-46-34-34H/206682798). Push on to PVC pipe end, screw other end into valve, and hand tighten to secure to pipe. Or, even easier and cheaper, although I've never used them yet, are Orbit's PVC Lock system that require no glue, can be rotated on the pipe, and even removed with a removal tool (www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-4-in-PVC-Lock-x-3-4-in-MPT-Adapter-37778/203266655).
I love the concept of that PVC compression adapter. How long have you had one in service outside in the sun? I find it challenging enough to keep PVC pipe alive here in Gilroy, CA in the intense heat and sun. If you don't paint your pipe, it will only last about 3 years before it becomes so brittle it'll snap off when you actuate a ball valve. I'll try this adapter on one of my sprinkler heads; very cheap!
Thanks, very informative and useful. I think you forgot to show the part where you glue the joint fittings that go over the cut ends of the pipes sticking off the ground, but it's clear you had them on. Also, do you use teflon tape on the plastic threads? I've read people arguing one way or the other.
Can the fittings be glued directly onto the existing PVC that was below the cut? That would save several steps and avoid the need to add new PVC, so there must be a good reason that's not being done...
In my case, one valve popped up, water was running all over the place but nothing was broken, it looked like the pressure made the valve pop up, I unscrewed the thread pipe that goes into the valve (where the solenoid is). Should I thread it back to the green valve, then put primer, pvc cement and push it into the pipe that is sticking out from the ground? I hope my explanation made sense.
I think I understand what you’re saying, sounds like when it was first installed it was not installed with enough glue. Yes you should be able to reinstall the valve, just make sure you properly prep the pipes so the adhesive works well.
You need to make sure which is the input and output for the sprinkler valve, meaning that you need to know which of the two pipes the water comes out of the ground from.
I have an underground valve, inline... the wire came off the top of the solenoid... can i just replae the solenoid? the valve still works? it seems like you just unscrewed the solenoid on yours... presuming they probably all just come off?
@@DoItYourselfDad again not sure if this model even comes off, but are they all the same or should i try and take this one off first to bring to match?
A key omission from this otherwise excellent DIY video was to insure the flow direction of the water from supply to sprinkler heads in the lawn/garden. Flow is marked by arrow typically on the underside of the valve. Installing the valve incorrectly that is in opposite flow of the water will result in water flushing constantly from the anti siphon valve cap.
When you put the preassembled valve into the pipe openings in the ground, you can't twist it, so wouldn't it be better to add glue on the outside of thje 6" pipe segments to ensure you have enough glue and a good enough seal as an insurance policy?
Never done this , that’s way I ask. It’s safe to touch those wires, is there anything that’s needs to be turned off before touching and connecting wires??? Thanks
Here's some tips: know the width of the connections before buying a new valve - some are up to an inch off. Use an in-line connector that will allow you to remove the old valve without having to cut the pipe - orbit has a product or you can use the PVC sharkbite like products. When you buy a valve purchase a diaphragm kit - 99% of the time the diaphragm is the problem and it usually goes out years after the company changed designs so you wont be able to find it (case in point watermaster was bought by orbit thus you can't easily find the diaphragms)
Nice video. The only thing I am not confident about you did not show: the installation of the slip coupling from the old pipe to the 6" piece of pipe going into the valve. My old pipe is messy with old blue cement and I am not sure if I can just sand it clean or dissolve it with the purple primer? I want to be sure I don't get t leak at that lower slip coupling.
I’d scuff it a bit, hit it with primer and then an ample amount of pvc cement. The cement is a solvent, it will soften up the cement that’s already there and as long as everything was cleaned it will make a good tight bond.
@@DoItYourselfDad, I did what you said and all went perfectly. So glad the guy at Lowe's talked me into the PVC cutter; after years of using a hack saw, that was a sweet treat, especially on the new pieces I cut. I had to take a few stabs at the old pipe though as it wanted to splinter and not give me a clean end to seat in the coupling. But all went great and I am back in business. Thanks again!
Cause home Depot or Lowe's don't carry the brand I need. And the one I need is triple the price and I was curious if I could just get one similar swap it and the system still be able to control it
Also, very important, apply teflon tape to threaded ends that attach to the bottoms of the sprinkler valves. Dont' use tape and you'll have a leak, guauranteed.
Great Video, I am trying to replace the old rainbird APAS-075 valves that parts no longer are available for. Is the valve you are using the Rainbird 075-ASVF? (It looks like a good replacement for my situation). Would this part be any different if bought at a contractor supply store? (There is also a similar DASASVF075 "Profession model" which is all black) Suggestions on which is better? v/r
Water continues to float out of pipe at a steady rate after the main irrigation line is off making it difficult to leave blue glue on. What would you suggest?
Question: how do I remove and connect the wires from my old anti-siphon valves sprinkler system to new ones that I install? This to me is the most difficult step. Also my old sprinkler wires are kind of janky and need replacing.
Im guessing these are 1/4 turn valves, pick up a new valve, a section of the same size pipe and some female to female fittings. You'll also need glue and something to cut with. You'll have to dig far enough around the pipe that you can get some play in it, cut the old valve out and replace it with the new one.
I was hoping for something better. I am going to install a coupling fitting in between the pipes and the valve. The next time I need to replace the valve, I can just unclamp the coupling the thread the upper pipes into the new valve.
I think my landscaper has put in the cheap valves. Need to get nicer ones after my sprinkler turned on by itself after I turned the water back on after replacing the valve stem in my bathroom.
a sudden burst of water to valves can cause the rubber diaphragm inside the valve to seat wrong. Probably not an issue of product more likely you kicked your house water back on to fast and the rush of pressure stuck the valve on.
Thanks for the video. I would have replaced all of the valves, excavated around the entire area, and brought the valves below the grade using a valve box. Well thought out video with helpful advise.
clutchfan 1 Someones drinking water can get contaminated from valves buried below the frost line; are you kidding me? What does the depth of the valves have to do with groundwater contamination?
Bessie Funk wrong. I have placed many irrigation valves in and everyone of them are below the valve height. Placing them below the grade satisfies several issues, esthetics, mowing and/or weed trimming and moreover, freezing valves.
@@dubs3400 Yes, but it depends on what type of valves you are using. The Anti-siphon valve must be at least 6" above the highest sprinkler head. This is common knowledge. It's also city code. The inline valve can be buried underground. And is more reliable than the anti-siphon valves against contamination due to the additional backflow prevention valve installed also with it.
great instructions except when gluing, most glues instruct that you apply glue to both ends that you're joining and purple primer is a good idea beforehand. teflon tape on the threaded fittings is never a bad idea.
The link is an interesting read.However there are a lot of practical considerations in the application that aren't accounted for. Two step welding goes back to when primary applications were low pressure DWV systems. So pressure testing wouldn't matter. Longevity of the joint, resistance to intrusion (e.g., tree roots), etc. are of primary importance. If you are looking a CPVC for supply lines, now you have to rethink for pressure strength. Still, not many lines are running sustained 1500 + PSI. The pipe itself probably isn't rated that high (at least for sustained stress -- and what schedule pipe matters also). For a "relatively" pressurized sprinkler line, I think below grade I'd err on the side of two-stage. For above grade, I wouldn't be thinking about how it looks either! Also, 1/2 turn to distribute the glue, that's it. To get the strongest join, you should insert, then turn... not corkscrew in.
DoItYourselfDad yea but at $10 more then the "big box store" the cost can be prohibitive. Also you have to wait for shipping. Well thought out video though.
Manufacturer of my valve, Hunter, said to use Teflon tape on the threaded connection. I would also recommend dry fitting the pvc and marking the full insertion position on the pipe with a marker. That way you can tell if you have pushed the pipe down fully.
I cant seem to fully dry fit my pipes and couplers any suggestions? Thx
I put Teflon tape and it’s still leaking even though I torqued it. Maybe I torqued it too high?
Just a heads up, you should apply PVC primer, let it sit for a few minutes before applying the glue. The primer softens the PVC so you get a solid perfect joint. And you should apply glue to both sodes of the joint....ie, fitting and pipe
Also, you should be using Teflon tape on the plastic threads. Maybe not required, but good practice.
I am sure for the little water pressure that runs to our homes it should be fine the way you did it. But, regardless you should know the right way, especially if you are making a DIY video. As a 20yr Union Pipefitter, I have had lots of practice.
Thanks. I use primer as my pipe/fitting depth guide.
Is there a clear primmer all I have is purple primer and clear glue
@@arrealhandymanservice4459 They do have a clear primer, your local big box store should carry it. If not a plumbing outfit would.
www.amazon.com/Oatey-30751-House-Primers-Clear/dp/B004SMUJWA/ref=asc_df_B004SMUJWA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193128962117&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11799944504939371826&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061283&hvtargid=pla-340660674924&psc=1
WestCoastMods yes I checked I picked up the purple primer and the red hot I just don’t like how messy it looks after so I found clear cleaner and clear glue.. I’ll try an actual plumbing supply hope they have clear and also quick drying and good to use while wet.
I would also recommend the teflon tape, just to be on the safe side. If you have a leak in the threads, will need to cut the pipes and start over..
Use teflon tape on the threads. Also use PVC primer before applying glue.
Yes sir bought printer today in a package deal w cement for 5$
Take it to the next level and use pipe dope, tape, then dope again for threaded fittings. Also use a fine sandpaper or emory cloth to take the finish off the pipe, then primer, then cement. No leaks...
@@LogicofChaos7871 Yep. I have done a thousand of them exactly described. I have also been told that pipe dope and tape are not needed with PVC and I know pros who swear by that claim. They say they have done hundreds/thousands of joints over decades and no leaks w/o dope or tape. I sleep better with the dope/tape/dope method. I have never known anyone who joined PVC w/o primer.
@@JohnnyC10071959 I have had one leak in 14 years. It was on what should have been a mirror weld. No mirror....pinhole leak
@@JohnnyC10071959 it’s always better to do the most especially if you’re in the landscaping business and fix a lot of these like myself I do all these extra steps so the clients are sure about what I’m doing and they won’t be saying anything like “oh you only cut the pipe and glue the other one on and you’re charging me this much” but if your doing it at your own home or a buddys all those steps aren’t required
Excellent video! Was quoted 500$ to replace valves. After watching this no way I’m paying that. 100$ for 4 valves and what an hour of my time and I’m set. Thank you!
How many were they gona fix
4
Would have been nice to see the addition of the 3/4 to 3/4 female unions on the pipe coming from the ground. Also, always use primer before the glue, as it makes a better seal and teflon tape on the threads for a better seal. Really liked removing the cylinoid first before removing the old valve as I'm not too nifty with the wires.
Thanks so much for this video. A few of my valves just broke, and a gardener wanted to charge us $400 to replace them. After watching this video, I know I can do it myself for just the cost of parts, and a little time. Thanks!!!
Glad we could help and save you some money!
Thanks for the demo and info, I was about to hire a contractor, but after watching your video, I think I can do this! lol
Oh BTW, did you replace all 3 valves or just one? Do I need to replace all 3 for compatibility?
Thanks for the video, first time finding the page as well! subscribed right away! I have to tackle this project this weekend for the first time, thanks for breaking it down! i was going to hire a guy and spend God knows what to have one solenoid replaced. I feel pretty confident I can tackle this project on my own now. Thank you!
Awesome! Let us know how it goes!
Nice job man I liked that idea with the clamps !
Couple things I noticed. First, I can buy those at my local Home Depot, and they have pretty good ratings. I bought a couple to replace my brass ones instead of rebuilding them. Secondly, they recommend you somehow attach the pvc to the inlet side and try it first to check for leaks before assembling the outlet side. I haven't figured out how to do that part yet. Anybody have suggestions, that would be great. Other than that, thank you for the video. It helped me out, especially using the clamp.
without reading the instructions on the pvc glue, I recall quarter turns on fittings to make certain the glue contacts fully. I probably would have spun those unions, and sanded them a bit. maybe that's a bit more belt and suspenders... thanks for posting the video!
Good job. Thanks for showing us the work to do our own work. Kudos really expz work for the laymen
Great video. Noticed the step of gluing the fittings to the cut ends of the pipes were not shown in the video. Also didn’t see the tape to the threads before connecting! Still very helpful though, thank you
Your Video was excellent. I also took advice of "Just me " in adding a teflon tape to the groves before threading the valve. I also used primer.
This is the first time I attempted to replace the valve and I just completed it. Here are some f the issues I face as a novice first time installer. You have to deep deep and a big circumference if you want to use the pipe cutter to cut the pipes coming out of the ground. I was not able to cut it properly. so I had to use my drummer tool, to make it even and sand the top. So that no debris go into the pipe I stuffed it with cloth which I removed after all the sanding, cutting, planing was done. So being new at this, I had to do extra work to make smooth and level. Also I might have used too much glue, i don't know what is too much but my glue application was dripping slightly. I also found the old pipe coming out of the ground had glue drippings, hence I had to sand it , with a sand paper as well as my dremel kit. It took me 2 hours more than it would have taken a professional. But I must say, this excellent video gave me the courage to complete the installation of the new valve. That valve was I believe defective , because any time I opened any zone , that defective zone always went on and the sprinklers came alive, I just turned on a few zones to check if the problem was solved and Eureka it was solved, Installation successful. I want to let the readers know, this is not an easy task.... not at least the very first time. I had all the tools and I am also an engineer by profession. I have 40 Valves in my property, thank you for saving me a ton of money.
piano wires are nice for the digging part. u don't have to dig as deep and no awkward positions while cutting
Thanks for this tutorial video. This helped out a lot!
Good video you saved me some money. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing your experience, other channels make it seem super complicated.
Thank you fo r the help, saved me $500 and only took an hour!
Awesome! Nice work!
Thank you. Very clear and easy to follow.
One question: When connecting the wires, how do you know which of the wires on the new valve is the control wire and which is the ground? It looks like they both have the same white stripe.
Doesn't matter on AC valves
Kind of makes you a little bit worried though. Especially if it doesn’t work the next day. I’m gonna let my glue cure and see how it works the next day after about 24 hours.
Awesome Video. Just noticed tho, that your link to the valve is different from the one you used in this video (solenoid has a handle which i prefer:) but could not find it anywhere. Thanks
Oooops, ok found them, thanks!
This is excellent! I have to do just one valve but this will save me a lot of money!
Awesome! Glad we could help out!
A lot easier to replace valves if you put a union in the "out" side when valves are originally installed
I went with Orbit since my sprinkler system uses Orbit controller and these cost a lot less than Rainbird and have six year warranty. Good call about doing cleanup of the area before install. I had a bunch of bamboo bushes blocking easy access to mine and used a pruning blade on my sawzall to remove these as working in the area would be a nightmare with all the bushes in the way.
Just a note to wrap the male threads of the PVC adapters with teflon tape or a bit of clear silicone. Without it those threaded connections are going to leak.
Excellent video and advice. I hate the Teflon tape so I use the tube of Teflon. Easier for me. I also don’t like the PVC cutters so I use a sawsall with a metal blade And then clean the burs off with a piece of sandpaper.Easy Peezy
Great video. Only wish you did all three valves to se how they're wired together instead of wiring to existing valve.
Thanks for the video very nicely done
Well done man! Thank you for putting this one together!
Great idea with clamps. I have 2 questions, 1) no primer for pipes before using glue? 2) is tape necessary for pipes that go in new valve?
Great video and clamp is genius
Most excellent video. Thank you!
Thank you!
What piece did you add to the pipe in the ground??
Cool video bro. Very well informed and easy to follow. Any suggestions anyone about dealing with galvanized risers? Since I can't cut them off, how do I get the valve off of them?
If the valves are threaded on (Im guessing they are) cut the valve in half with a hack saw and spin them off. A viewer had posted this video, his steps should help you: ua-cam.com/video/60GpCg6QvJ0/v-deo.html
Thanks so much for your video, and especially this link!
2:39 Before you unscrew the solenoids, you may want to mark them with something like #1 , #2, and #3 and restore them later so afterward the signal from the valve timer still goes to the correct valve.
Very good point!
Thanks, excellent tutorial
If you're tired of cutting and gluing and extending sprinkler riser pipe over and over again, look into sharkbite fittings. Google UIP134. Screw that part into the sprinkler valve threaded connections, and just press it down onto the PVC pipe and you're done. If the valve goes bad or needs a vinegar soak, slip two sharkbite disconnect tools under the fittings, and lift. Pop, off comes the valve so you can take it apart and vinegar soak it to remove hard water deposits. No glue. No waiting.
Those are awesome! I'll definitely look into those next time!
Just don't forget to turn the water off and bleed off the pressure before popping them off. I added stainless ball valves on the input side so I could shut off the water prior to removing the valve. They're about $10 on ebay. I have to service these sprinkler valves annually with a vinegar soak due to hard water deposits. The sharkbite fittings and shut-off valve cut hours off the project time. I've inserted and removed the same PVC stubs 4 times now; no appreciable wear and no leaks. They really work well.
I use an adapter from Home Depot, etc, that's all PVC, and much cheaper (www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-PVC-Compression-x-Male-Repair-Adapter-511-46-34-34H/206682798). Push on to PVC pipe end, screw other end into valve, and hand tighten to secure to pipe. Or, even easier and cheaper, although I've never used them yet, are Orbit's PVC Lock system that require no glue, can be rotated on the pipe, and even removed with a removal tool (www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-4-in-PVC-Lock-x-3-4-in-MPT-Adapter-37778/203266655).
I love the concept of that PVC compression adapter. How long have you had one in service outside in the sun? I find it challenging enough to keep PVC pipe alive here in Gilroy, CA in the intense heat and sun. If you don't paint your pipe, it will only last about 3 years before it becomes so brittle it'll snap off when you actuate a ball valve. I'll try this adapter on one of my sprinkler heads; very cheap!
I've had mine for more than 3 years - maybe 5 or more, in Pleasant Hill, which is probably hotter. But it's in the shade.
Thanks, very informative and useful.
I think you forgot to show the part where you glue the joint fittings that go over the cut ends of the pipes sticking off the ground, but it's clear you had them on.
Also, do you use teflon tape on the plastic threads? I've read people arguing one way or the other.
Awesome video. I was gonna call a guy to do it and it’s very easy
Im going to do the same!
Don't call a broad to do it.
Can you recommend a good PVC cutter? The blade on my MCC brand PVC cutter just broke.
What about primer before you glue, and teflon tape for the threaded parts?
Can the fittings be glued directly onto the existing PVC that was below the cut? That would save several steps and avoid the need to add new PVC, so there must be a good reason that's not being done...
Clear and thorough instructions!
Do you have an exact list? For instance: 2 3/4” slip to male threaded fittings
2 slip fittings to extend the pipe?
Every setup is different, it would all depend on what size your existing plumbing is.
In my case, one valve popped up, water was running all over the place but nothing was broken, it looked like the pressure made the valve pop up, I unscrewed the thread pipe that goes into the valve (where the solenoid is). Should I thread it back to the green valve, then put primer, pvc cement and push it into the pipe that is sticking out from the ground? I hope my explanation made sense.
I think I understand what you’re saying, sounds like when it was first installed it was not installed with enough glue. Yes you should be able to reinstall the valve, just make sure you properly prep the pipes so the adhesive works well.
NICE!!!!!
Thank You for Video.
What state are you in? We've never used these valves just in-lines...
CA, it doesn’t freeze here so we can run them above ground .
Any idea of the height and psi your supposed to go by?
Which wire is the signal and which one is the ground or does it not matter ? Sorry I’m new at this
Very clean work, good job!
TEFLON TAPE the threads is essential or it will leak. Why glue the threads anyway, think disassembly later. HTH.
If you keep cutting the pipe, would that make the mainline pipe shorter and shorter as you replace each valve ?
Yes, that's why we used the extensions. A better way would be to use couplers.
What brand and model number were the valves?
You need to make sure which is the input and output for the sprinkler valve, meaning that you need to know which of the two pipes the water comes out of the ground from.
I have an underground valve, inline... the wire came off the top of the solenoid... can i just replae the solenoid? the valve still works? it seems like you just unscrewed the solenoid on yours... presuming they probably all just come off?
Yes you should be able to just replace the solenoid. They’re pretty inexpensive.
@@DoItYourselfDad again not sure if this model even comes off, but are they all the same or should i try and take this one off first to bring to match?
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A key omission from this otherwise excellent DIY video was to insure the flow direction of the water from supply to sprinkler heads in the lawn/garden. Flow is marked by arrow typically on the underside of the valve. Installing the valve incorrectly that is in opposite flow of the water will result in water flushing constantly from the anti siphon valve cap.
When you put the preassembled valve into the pipe openings in the ground, you can't twist it, so wouldn't it be better to add glue on the outside of thje 6" pipe segments to ensure you have enough glue and a good enough seal as an insurance policy?
Does it matter how high the valve is? Do all the valves need to be a same height?
The valves need ( should) be higher than the highest sprinkler you have on the wine
@@DoItYourselfDad oh okay, thanks!
Never done this , that’s way I ask. It’s safe to touch those wires, is there anything that’s needs to be turned off before touching and connecting wires??? Thanks
They are low voltage, so safe to touch. I would still recommend turning off your sprinkler timer though.
Here's some tips: know the width of the connections before buying a new valve - some are up to an inch off. Use an in-line connector that will allow you to remove the old valve without having to cut the pipe - orbit has a product or you can use the PVC sharkbite like products. When you buy a valve purchase a diaphragm kit - 99% of the time the diaphragm is the problem and it usually goes out years after the company changed designs so you wont be able to find it (case in point watermaster was bought by orbit thus you can't easily find the diaphragms)
What is an in-line connector?
Great video,so informative,answered so many questions!
thank u this video is extremely helpful for me,god bless u
Nice video. The only thing I am not confident about you did not show: the installation of the slip coupling from the old pipe to the 6" piece of pipe going into the valve. My old pipe is messy with old blue cement and I am not sure if I can just sand it clean or dissolve it with the purple primer? I want to be sure I don't get t leak at that lower slip coupling.
I’d scuff it a bit, hit it with primer and then an ample amount of pvc cement. The cement is a solvent, it will soften up the cement that’s already there and as long as everything was cleaned it will make a good tight bond.
@@DoItYourselfDad, I did what you said and all went perfectly. So glad the guy at Lowe's talked me into the PVC cutter; after years of using a hack saw, that was a sweet treat, especially on the new pieces I cut. I had to take a few stabs at the old pipe though as it wanted to splinter and not give me a clean end to seat in the coupling. But all went great and I am back in business. Thanks again!
Glad to hear!
So its ok to mix in a different brand valve ?
Yup, won’t make a difference.
Cause home Depot or Lowe's don't carry the brand I need. And the one I need is triple the price and I was curious if I could just get one similar swap it and the system still be able to control it
@@eleazarfernandez9369 You'll be fine, they all work the same way. Just make sure the pipe diameter and spacing is the same.
@@DoItYourselfDad sweet, I really appreciate the reply. Now I have no excuse to continue to avoid fixing my sprinklers. Thanks
The electricity was not brought up.
I assume the electricity was turned off to attach the wires???
Also, very important, apply teflon tape to threaded ends that attach to the bottoms of the sprinkler valves. Dont' use tape and you'll have a leak, guauranteed.
When I bleed off the pressure; first step, should it continue to spray water?
It may, if it is, shut off the water supply.
Thanks, this is just what I needed.
Thanks for the video
Very informative. Thank you
You should always prime and cement both ends. Prevents water droplets from coming out.
What does that mean (I'm startinng out/complete novice) but am great at following writeen and verbal instructions
@@soniag4516 what ever part of the PVC pipe touches another needs both primer and cement
Great Video,
I am trying to replace the old rainbird APAS-075 valves that parts no longer are available for. Is the valve you are using the Rainbird 075-ASVF? (It looks like a good replacement for my situation). Would this part be any different if bought at a contractor supply store? (There is also a similar DASASVF075 "Profession model" which is all black) Suggestions on which is better?
v/r
thanks was going to call a landscaper , but now I am going to do it .!
👍 awesome!
Great video Sir! Appreciate you 😊👍
I have received 2 quotes a job like this. My regular gardener said he'd do it for $150. Some local contractor I found online said he'd do it for $650!
How difficult could it have been to test IT ?
Testing these is not difficult, but these were shot and needed replacing.
Some motors have two black wires coming out of solenoid. Does it matter which goes to which?
Nope, doesn’t matter.
Why are your valves above ground and mine below ground? Installer's choice? Or some design reason?
Valves need to be a minimum elevation above the highest head, and I don’t live in freeze zone.
Our sprinkler valve hammers while sprinkler is on and the flow of water is so slow on that station. Can you help me with that? Any idea?
Hammering sometimes means you have air in the line, you can also get expansion tubes that help buffer the hammering effect.
Thank you very much, you made it simple, I was over thinking it
Water continues to float out of pipe at a steady rate after the main irrigation line is off making it difficult to leave blue glue on. What would you suggest?
Let it drain, sounds like you’ve got a lot of residual water in the line.
Nice video
Question: how do I remove and connect the wires from my old anti-siphon valves sprinkler system to new ones that I install? This to me is the most difficult step. Also my old sprinkler wires are kind of janky and need replacing.
Are they attached with wire nuts?
Does it matter which wire from the new valve goes into the ground and control?
No, it doesn't.
The solenoids are AC powered, so polarity doesn't matter.
On the new valve how can you tell which wire is ground?
Polarity doesn't matter on the solenoids.
Thank you for this video!
+Theo Campbell thanks for watching!
What causes the anti siphon to leak out water? Everytime the sprinklers shut of the anti siphon leaks out water.
when you put the new valve in the coupler does it have to go all the way down
how do I change out an old isolation irrigation valve, plastic, near the old sprinkler valves (one that controls water flow to sprinkler valves)?
Is the valve your replacing in copper or pvc pipe?
pvc
Im guessing these are 1/4 turn valves, pick up a new valve, a section of the same size pipe and some female to female fittings. You'll also need glue and something to cut with. You'll have to dig far enough around the pipe that you can get some play in it, cut the old valve out and replace it with the new one.
I was hoping for something better. I am going to install a coupling fitting in between the pipes and the valve. The next time I need to replace the valve, I can just unclamp the coupling the thread the upper pipes into the new valve.
Union fittings would be a great idea.
I hear air coming out of the backflow when valve is off. Is that normal?
I think my landscaper has put in the cheap valves. Need to get nicer ones after my sprinkler turned on by itself after I turned the water back on after replacing the valve stem in my bathroom.
a sudden burst of water to valves can cause the rubber diaphragm inside the valve to seat wrong. Probably not an issue of product more likely you kicked your house water back on to fast and the rush of pressure stuck the valve on.
Thanks for the video. I would have replaced all of the valves, excavated around the entire area, and brought the valves below the grade using a valve box.
Well thought out video with helpful advise.
The valves need to be higher than the highest
sprinkler head
that's just asking for you drinking water to be contaminated
clutchfan 1 Someones drinking water can get contaminated from valves buried below the frost line; are you kidding me? What does the depth of the valves have to do with groundwater contamination?
Bessie Funk wrong. I have placed many irrigation valves in and everyone of them are below the valve height. Placing them below the grade satisfies several issues, esthetics, mowing and/or weed trimming and moreover, freezing valves.
@@dubs3400 Yes, but it depends on what type of valves you are using.
The Anti-siphon valve must be at least 6" above the highest sprinkler head.
This is common knowledge. It's also city code.
The inline valve can be buried underground. And is more reliable than the anti-siphon valves against contamination due to the additional backflow prevention valve installed also with it.
good tips!!
Hey, does this wire have electricity?
Sprinklers are low voltage wiring.
What about water still in the pipe ?
No Teflon tape or PVC primer?
Primer is not needed with all cements.
great instructions except when gluing, most glues instruct that you apply glue to both ends that you're joining and purple primer is a good idea beforehand. teflon tape on the threaded fittings is never a bad idea.
www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
I was going to tell him the same thing. Also, the blue glue is not as good as the clear or yellow, but always use primer...
That highschool sophmore recommended cement inside and out as well.. Teflon tape is also needed in this situation, imo.
The link is an interesting read.However there are a lot of practical considerations in the application that aren't accounted for. Two step welding goes back to when primary applications were low pressure DWV systems. So pressure testing wouldn't matter. Longevity of the joint, resistance to intrusion (e.g., tree roots), etc. are of primary importance. If you are looking a CPVC for supply lines, now you have to rethink for pressure strength. Still, not many lines are running sustained 1500 + PSI. The pipe itself probably isn't rated that high (at least for sustained stress -- and what schedule pipe matters also). For a "relatively" pressurized sprinkler line, I think below grade I'd err on the side of two-stage. For above grade, I wouldn't be thinking about how it looks either!
Also, 1/2 turn to distribute the glue, that's it. To get the strongest join, you should insert, then turn... not corkscrew in.
Exactly. Teflon and purple primer are a must.
Should I use tape on the threaded fittings?
The I had are tapered so tape wasn't needed, but it wouldn't hurt.
Thanks for the video very nicely done. can you give a link for where you got your valves-was it contractor outfit?
I've found most big box store only sell mid grade stuff. These are the valves I used: amzn.to/2quzmC9
DoItYourselfDad yea but at $10 more then the "big box store" the cost can be prohibitive. Also you have to wait for shipping. Well thought out video though.
DoItYourselfDad 9
He’s going to have leaks he didn’t even put Teflon tape
@@adriannavarrete7679
I put Teflon tape and it’s still leaked.
I replaced mine last weekend and idk who installed them but they did not make it easy to replace