Thanks for the long term test Jake, that's really good info. The one tank test is not ideal by any means. It does give a snapshot of the lubrication properties of each oil. I went back and looked at one of the earlier tests I did, specifically XP+ and the piston crown had a complete coating of carbon on just one tank at 50:1 for what it's worth. The Belray looked great BTW.
Hey thanks for watching buddy! I wasn’t trying to beat you up at all. I just wanted to show the effects I’ve experienced with long term use of motul. The one tank test does show significant difference when comparing to manufacturer oils. Xp+ in my opinion is the worst manufacture oil out there. Motul is the worst for carbon build up out of all the dirt bike oils I’ve tried. We also need to keep in mind that this saw has over 1000 hrs on it. And other than carbon build up it actually looks pretty good. I’ve had guys tell me that at 40:1 it will be cleaner because more oil more detergents. Not sure how I feel about that. Anyway I enjoy your videos brother! And I’m just trying to help people out.
@@jakemesa3211 I read a paper done on fuel to oil ratios. The authors tested a bunch of fuel and oil ratios from 100:1 down to 10:1. If I remember right the least carbon buildup was somewhere around 25:1 but it raised other emissions. They were saying it was very similar to running a regular 4-stroke engine to lean. Their conclusion was because the oil displaces fuel a lean gasoline state could be run without damage to the engine and that’s why there was less carbon buildup. It was basically running lean and protected by the oil. It sounds kinda crazy to me for more than one reason but there’s so much going on with modern fuels and oils that maybe their tests and conclusions have some validity. In my mind more oil equals fouled plugs and heavy carbon, but that programming was done with 4-stroke and sloppy antique 2-strokes.
Jake, Thank you so much for taking the time to tear your machine down and show us. I was about to jump into the Motul 800 pool; But not now! My limited research has led me to believe Motul 710 may be a suitable alternative. The motorcycle people mostly agree that the 800 is for machines mostly run at WOT while the 710 is appropriate for say a trials bike that only gets wound up occasionally. Kinda like chainsaws for falling and bucking. The 710 also has a JASO FD rating with detergents to continuously clean carbon. Dunno about mix ratios yet. The 800 can reliably lubricate at 50:1 because of its high viscosity. However, the 710 is less viscous at all cylinder head temperatures. Think I’ll start at 40:1. Anyway, thanks for being there. …Joe
I’ve run Motul 800 in everything two stroke for 25 years, not a single issue from Cr250 race karts to a 661 doing heavy work in large old man pine. I think it’s the ducks nuts.
Dang I just mixed up two gallons of motul to try. I do not cut enough to do an accurate long term test so the bike oils so In the short term they look great. It’s awesome to see a long term test to know all of the story!! Thank you!!! That’s awesome!
Stay tuned for next weeks video on how to change the crank after dirt somehow dropped into the bottom end destroying the bearings because taking 5 minutes to use contact cleaner and a rag to clean the area around the cylinder was just too much effort……. Just another video reminding us to NOT let anybody else work on our motors. Thanks.
For the last year or more in my ported work saws I’ve been running the Amsoil Dominator and I love it. I burn 5-7 gallons of mix a week through my saws and they look mint inside. When I pull em apart they are covered in nice red oil inside. Just my 2 cents.. But anyways great vid and thanks for sharing.
@Houseworksaws Dominator is my go to oil now for the last 4-5 years. Works excellent in everything I've ran it in. Burns very clean. Tunes easy and crisp. Leaves a nice film behind even after a year of storage. I have no plans of changing after having used many oils over the years. Because I also used to race and still run large scale RC cars that turn 18,000-20,000 RPM, I run 25:1 in everything because thats what those high performance RC engines need. Dominator is one of only a few oils I've used that runs and tunes well in everything from 20cc on up at that ratio.
when I run motul 800 off road 40:1 on 27-30 cc stihl engine (stihl ms 170 and stihl hs 52), its run great, piston look very clean but when i put motul 800 on my stihl ms 361 (60 cc saw), piston look bit dark orange, maybe bcause overheating or carbon build up not so sure, now im trying castrol a747 on my stihl 361, sorry for my bad english
You are right. And it may not be the flash point that causes the carbon build up. But bel ray doesn’t come anywhere close to the amount of carbon that motul does.
@@jakemesa3211agreed. oils are way more than what their MSDS sheet tells you they are. There are low flash point oils that are dirty and high flash point oils that are clean. Doesnt make sense to me.
Type of base oil stock blending companies use is what's going to effect how "clean" or "dirty" these oil's burn, do they use straight mineral oil/semi synthetic/full synthetic or nowadays blend's of all of the above along with whatever additives used. Dirt bike oil's are great oil for their intended use ie very short but very hard run's in motocross bikes that are expected to be tore down after only one or two hard wot race's at the pro level, so that's why they run their mixes at 32:1 for engine protection but they don't worry about carbon build up on such short rebuilds. Take these same oil's and use them in out of spec applications in extended run times and that's where thing's get interesting, some will do very well other's won't. Thing's like a change in the season ie temperature swings or something simple like elevation changes (thin air high elevation dense air see level) can mean what your using might work great up in the mountains won't work for guy's cutting down in the flat land's or vise a versa. No one oil is the magic bullet it seems we each have to find what work's in our own area and cutting style, at least that's what I've found out for whatever it's worth; take care.
Both these oils are intended for any air cooled 2t engine. Both made with synthetic ester base. Motul is recommended 50:1 for moto cross and grand pre. Bel ray is recommended at 40:1. But both state to follow manufacturer recommendations. I cut professionally in temps ranging from negative degrees to the upper 90’s depending on the season and elevation ranging from around 1000 feet to 7000 feet. And yes there is some carb tweaking goes on. But it’s been my experience that bel ray performs spectacular in all conditions and elevations.
There are some pretty good oil's on the market now compared to what used to be available not that long ago so it's very much a personal choice of what's your favorite flavor so to speak these day's. End result of sharing our own experience with these product's if good or bad benefits everyone, be it full time cutter or hobby guy's.@@jakemesa3211
I agree. Local pump fuel can range from excellent to 💩 depending on geographical location. For example here in NY and in Pennsylvania the winter blend pump gas is absolutely atrocious so many run canned fuel : motomix , Vp etc or they simply get aspen and use their favorite mix oil ! The only “magic bullet” I’ve found is the STIHL motomix - burns exceptionally clean with virtually no carbon after hundreds of hours of use! In fact in some parts of Europe they mandate the use of aspen / alkylate fuel and I’ve seen tear downs of saws with well over 1000hrs that look brand new. Folk balk at the expense vs pump gas but there’s a reason why it costs more …. It’s simply a superior fuel … Period !
Careful now Stihl Motomix is not the magic bullet many think it is in fact it's mix oil used is good old Stihl ultra yes the very "pond water" stuff Richard Flagg has a major beef with and many others, so do I. Ultra is well known to cause major carbon buildup and a lot of piston coking have seen it on a few saw's I bought, one only had 8 tanks of gas run through it (yes verified low hour MS261CM) and piston was completely brown/black all around from top to bottom; it's former owner assured me he only ran ultra with premium high octan race fuel cause it's the best he said with pride lol! In all fairness it seems different areas or markets seem to use different mix oil's in their pre canned fuels so even though it may have the same brand name it's mix oil varies from say part's of the USA/Canada/or other parts of the world. A lot of people here on UA-cam have proven that canned fuels are great for long term storage but these fuels are not so good when it comes to carbon buildup and run performance. Channels like Chickanick she has shown that a lot of power equipment won't even run on some of this stuff, and there's many other's as well that have tested and shown just how dirty some of these fuels burn. End takeaway is find what work's in your area "magic bullet" and stick to it cause it may not work for someone else somewhere else. @@fabzacres-blackcat
@@StuInTheSticks Nope 👎 … I disagree … I have several saws with hundreds of hours on them that are like new inside with little to no carbon and the machine marks are STIHL visible on the piston - and yes the motomix contains STIHL ultra. Don’t take my word for it though , look at STIHLS 500hr continuous test using ultra - obviously someone is mistaken. In fact over in some parts of Europe alkylate fuels are mandatory and I’ve seen plenty of saws run with Motomix with 1000,1500 even 2000 hours on them that look mint inside. These European loggers swear by it - go ask them ! There is no “different mix oil” being used in different locations/markets when it comes to STIHL motomix whether you purchase it in NY or Stuttgart Germany 🇩🇪 so that statement is incorrect - it uses STIHL ultra as a mix oil and is a patented fuel - CANNOT be copied- you can peruse the msds sheets but they WILL NOT tell you EXACTLY what is in the mix oil but will tell u the composition of the alkylate fuel , which is infinitely superior to ANY pump gas I can buy up here in NY both in long term stability and composition … VP is another excellent fuel that exhibits excellent characteristics also … I cannot speak to characteristics/properties of any other canned fuels as I do not use them … why would I ? The bottom line here is that the quality of pump gas fluctuates between seasons (winter / summer blends) between geographic locations and between individual brands as they all get the same “base stock” and then add there own “additive packages” to the fuel just like the makers of 2-stroke mix oil all have there own “additive packages” that they use in their oils. I do not get any carbon build up although if I switch to local non ethanol pump gas using the same ultra mix oil I WILL get carbon build up in a rather short period of runtime - simple deductive logic will tell you that it is the FUEL that is causing the carbon build up NOT necessarily the STIHL ultra and as the saws are mtronic / autotune the “tuning” aspect is removed from the equation … STIHL motomix is not some “conspiracy” to sell you overpriced “snake oil as the manufacturers (who have r/d budgets in the millions of $) are WELL AWARE of the fact the quality of fuel fluctuates wildly from region to region and have engineered a fuel that will incur the best engine life/performance … As far as Mr Flagg is concerned , anyone who is doing a test using a brand of mix oil for ONE tank of fuel and then tears down the saw and somehow believes this is a valid comparison is a fool twice damned! I’ll take my real world experience and the multi million dollar engineering department of STIHL inc over some charlatan(s) talking out of his basement when it comes to this subject. You can argue otherwise until you are blue in the face but unless and until you show me video evidence (which I provide on my channel) showing a saw with hundreds of hours of runtime I’m sticking to my guns 💪. Tata
I've had a similar experience with the motul 800 2t. It wasn't very good in hedge cutter it blocked the exhaust up. In my dollys, it's not so bad @ 50:1 though I run shell 99v power in my saws not the 95 high ethanol crap, i think strato saws it will carbon up if you baby them and don't keep them pinned. Small limbing isn't that good, either. My 73-79s/9010 seem to run better on it, not noticed as much carbon as that husky, I would say probably works better in ported saw thats run hard in bigger timber, though I've got some motul 710 and it's noticeably thinner oil as it's for injection too and it does indeed run cleaner. Probaby will switch to that, and it seems to leave good oil film when looking in crankcase, I run it slightly more oil at 48-45:1👍
I dont even think that nd30 that we used before they sold 2 stroke specific oils was that bad.😂 I just run whatever is the cheapest by the gallon of oil at the parts store is. My 1971 Stihl just don't care. On the carbon we used to just spray some antifreeze down the carb when the saw is hot and running wide-open. Something in it just makes the carbon let loose of metals.
Are you using Supreme 7000 or the newer 9000 series? I had looked into the 9000 but whew, it‘s twice as expensive as the 7000 and I have had good luck with it. Nice and clean.
@@steppoffaith8426horseshit ! Fuel quality has everything to do with it ! That’s why I’ve got saws with hundreds of hours on them running motomix and they are like new insides whereas 10 gallons of non corn 🌽 (which is bullshit too because they are legally allowed up to 5% 🌽 even in pumps marked non ethanol) cause carbon build up even though the MIX OIL is the same in both …STIHL ultra ! Now …. What a lotta folk don’t realize/ are ignorant of is that the individual gas brands get their gas and then put their OWN ADDITIVE PACKAGE in the fuel ! That’s why someone can get gas in Crossbills Tennessee vs Buffalo New York and use the same g-damn mix oil / ratio / tune and his saw will run clean as a whistle whereas the other guys fuel will carbon up after 10gallons … I’ve done the tests / put the time in (motomix vs pump with ultra oil ) and can prove to 100% accuracy what I say is a FACT in my area with my fuel available! I’d say just run the g-damn alkylate fuel and be done with it ! They recommend the alkylate fuel right in the manual for chrissakes 😂! It ain’t no g-damn “conspiracy” to sell ya snake oil , the big 2 saw manufacturers are VERY aware of the fuel quality fluctuations around the USA / World where the saws gotta run from -20 to 100 degrees and at sea level to 10000ft elevation and belief u me , they don’t want to spend 1 penny more than they have to on warranty repairs … 🤷 why these guys are running 1 tank of fuel of oil “X” and then tearing down the saws and showing them ? That’s like trying to get a suntan bathing in moonlight - meaningless 😂
@@PurpleNovember Its almost always the fuel with these synthetics, stale fuel and bad tune/lots of idle will create carbon deposits on the exhaust port. I have over 2000h on my 500i and close to that on 881 and there's no carbon buildup, the entire muffler is covered in light brown ash from complete burn of the oil and gas. I run 32:1 on 500i motul 800 offroad. 25:1 on 881 on the mill. Regular 5% ethanol gas, always fresh. No issues. When I store my saws for more than 2 weeks I always run alkylated gas through them before storage. That's it.
The husky oil is completely terrible so I switched to belray like a few years ago I haven’t had any problems and I did tear down a 200 t and the carbon wasn’t to bad but most of the time on that saw was on husky oil
Thanks for the long term test Jake, that's really good info. The one tank test is not ideal by any means. It does give a snapshot of the lubrication properties of each oil. I went back and looked at one of the earlier tests I did, specifically XP+ and the piston crown had a complete coating of carbon on just one tank at 50:1 for what it's worth. The Belray looked great BTW.
Hey thanks for watching buddy! I wasn’t trying to beat you up at all. I just wanted to show the effects I’ve experienced with long term use of motul. The one tank test does show significant difference when comparing to manufacturer oils. Xp+ in my opinion is the worst manufacture oil out there. Motul is the worst for carbon build up out of all the dirt bike oils I’ve tried. We also need to keep in mind that this saw has over 1000 hrs on it. And other than carbon build up it actually looks pretty good. I’ve had guys tell me that at 40:1 it will be cleaner because more oil more detergents. Not sure how I feel about that. Anyway I enjoy your videos brother! And I’m just trying to help people out.
@@jakemesa3211 I read a paper done on fuel to oil ratios. The authors tested a bunch of fuel and oil ratios from 100:1 down to 10:1. If I remember right the least carbon buildup was somewhere around 25:1 but it raised other emissions. They were saying it was very similar to running a regular 4-stroke engine to lean. Their conclusion was because the oil displaces fuel a lean gasoline state could be run without damage to the engine and that’s why there was less carbon buildup. It was basically running lean and protected by the oil.
It sounds kinda crazy to me for more than one reason but there’s so much going on with modern fuels and oils that maybe their tests and conclusions have some validity.
In my mind more oil equals fouled plugs and heavy carbon, but that programming was done with 4-stroke and sloppy antique 2-strokes.
Jake, Thank you so much for taking the time to tear your machine down and show us. I was about to jump into the Motul 800 pool; But not now! My limited research has led me to believe Motul 710 may be a suitable alternative. The motorcycle people mostly agree that the 800 is for machines mostly run at WOT while the 710 is appropriate for say a trials bike that only gets wound up occasionally. Kinda like chainsaws for falling and bucking. The 710 also has a JASO FD rating with detergents to continuously clean carbon. Dunno about mix ratios yet. The 800 can reliably lubricate at 50:1 because of its high viscosity. However, the 710 is less viscous at all cylinder head temperatures. Think I’ll start at 40:1. Anyway, thanks for being there. …Joe
710 very good full easter 2T oil
I’ve run Motul 800 in everything two stroke for 25 years, not a single issue from Cr250 race karts to a 661 doing heavy work in large old man pine.
I think it’s the ducks nuts.
Dang I just mixed up two gallons of motul to try. I do not cut enough to do an accurate long term test so the bike oils so In the short term they look great. It’s awesome to see a long term test to know all of the story!! Thank you!!! That’s awesome!
You won’t have a problem buddy especially making back the back cookies. It seems to perform best in hot full load applications.
Good deal!!! Thank you sir for the great video!
@@jonbobskunkworks thanks for tuning in buddy!
Thanks Jake appreciate your insight always enjoy listening to you have a good weekend 👍🏴
Stay tuned for next weeks video on how to change the crank after dirt somehow dropped into the bottom end destroying the bearings because taking 5 minutes to use contact cleaner and a rag to clean the area around the cylinder was just too much effort……. Just another video reminding us to NOT let anybody else work on our motors. Thanks.
🤣 yep
If you have an m tronic it’s perfect as they run leaner/cleaner and constantly adjusting. You need the 800 in those.
I couldnt get motul 800 to burn clean in my dirt bike, I knew it wasnt good for saws.
Dominator or motul 710 is pretty goood tho.
For the last year or more in my ported work saws I’ve been running the Amsoil Dominator and I love it. I burn 5-7 gallons of mix a week through my saws and they look mint inside. When I pull em apart they are covered in nice red oil inside. Just my 2 cents.. But anyways great vid and thanks for sharing.
I have not tried dominator yet. I’ve heard good things. I burn the same amount of fuel every week. Bel ray has performed exceptionally well for me.
@Houseworksaws
Dominator is my go to oil now for the last 4-5 years. Works excellent in everything I've ran it in. Burns very clean. Tunes easy and crisp. Leaves a nice film behind even after a year of storage. I have no plans of changing after having used many oils over the years. Because I also used to race and still run large scale RC cars that turn 18,000-20,000 RPM, I run 25:1 in everything because thats what those high performance RC engines need. Dominator is one of only a few oils I've used that runs and tunes well in everything from 20cc on up at that ratio.
@@jakemesa3211 Motul 710 best oil no big flash point 👍
Motul 710 in my saws and bikes.
when I run motul 800 off road 40:1 on 27-30 cc stihl engine (stihl ms 170 and stihl hs 52), its run great, piston look very clean
but when i put motul 800 on my stihl ms 361 (60 cc saw), piston look bit dark orange, maybe bcause overheating or carbon build up not so sure,
now im trying castrol a747 on my stihl 361,
sorry for my bad english
ive been using the stihl synthetic in the gray bottles no issues thanks jake
I swear by amsoil saber.. never a issue.. burns clean. Even on tear down inspection.
I’ve got a few buddy’s that swear by it too. I’m pretty partial to bel ray h1-r.
Saber and h1r are fantastic, they are my two go to oils
The difference in flash point of bel-ray H1R and motul 800 off road is only about 20F.
You are right. And it may not be the flash point that causes the carbon build up. But bel ray doesn’t come anywhere close to the amount of carbon that motul does.
@@jakemesa3211agreed.
oils are way more than what their MSDS sheet tells you they are. There are low flash point oils that are dirty and high flash point oils that are clean. Doesnt make sense to me.
At 40:1 it won’t look anything like that.
@@mrxlh please explain..
More oil, more detergent…
Have you tried the Honda HP 2 oil in your saws?
I use motul 800 offroad 40:1every day for my huskys
It’s perfect
@@giuseppemelis6065 👌
Type of base oil stock blending companies use is what's going to effect how "clean" or "dirty" these oil's burn, do they use straight mineral oil/semi synthetic/full synthetic or nowadays blend's of all of the above along with whatever additives used. Dirt bike oil's are great oil for their intended use ie very short but very hard run's in motocross bikes that are expected to be tore down after only one or two hard wot race's at the pro level, so that's why they run their mixes at 32:1 for engine protection but they don't worry about carbon build up on such short rebuilds. Take these same oil's and use them in out of spec applications in extended run times and that's where thing's get interesting, some will do very well other's won't. Thing's like a change in the season ie temperature swings or something simple like elevation changes (thin air high elevation dense air see level) can mean what your using might work great up in the mountains won't work for guy's cutting down in the flat land's or vise a versa. No one oil is the magic bullet it seems we each have to find what work's in our own area and cutting style, at least that's what I've found out for whatever it's worth; take care.
Both these oils are intended for any air cooled 2t engine. Both made with synthetic ester base. Motul is recommended 50:1 for moto cross and grand pre. Bel ray is recommended at 40:1. But both state to follow manufacturer recommendations. I cut professionally in temps ranging from negative degrees to the upper 90’s depending on the season and elevation ranging from around 1000 feet to 7000 feet. And yes there is some carb tweaking goes on. But it’s been my experience that bel ray performs spectacular in all conditions and elevations.
There are some pretty good oil's on the market now compared to what used to be available not that long ago so it's very much a personal choice of what's your favorite flavor so to speak these day's. End result of sharing our own experience with these product's if good or bad benefits everyone, be it full time cutter or hobby guy's.@@jakemesa3211
I agree. Local pump fuel can range from excellent to 💩 depending on geographical location. For example here in NY and in Pennsylvania the winter blend pump gas is absolutely atrocious so many run canned fuel : motomix , Vp etc or they simply get aspen and use their favorite mix oil ! The only “magic bullet” I’ve found is the STIHL motomix - burns exceptionally clean with virtually no carbon after hundreds of hours of use! In fact in some parts of Europe they mandate the use of aspen / alkylate fuel and I’ve seen tear downs of saws with well over 1000hrs that look brand new. Folk balk at the expense vs pump gas but there’s a reason why it costs more …. It’s simply a superior fuel … Period !
Careful now Stihl Motomix is not the magic bullet many think it is in fact it's mix oil used is good old Stihl ultra yes the very "pond water" stuff Richard Flagg has a major beef with and many others, so do I. Ultra is well known to cause major carbon buildup and a lot of piston coking have seen it on a few saw's I bought, one only had 8 tanks of gas run through it (yes verified low hour MS261CM) and piston was completely brown/black all around from top to bottom; it's former owner assured me he only ran ultra with premium high octan race fuel cause it's the best he said with pride lol! In all fairness it seems different areas or markets seem to use different mix oil's in their pre canned fuels so even though it may have the same brand name it's mix oil varies from say part's of the USA/Canada/or other parts of the world. A lot of people here on UA-cam have proven that canned fuels are great for long term storage but these fuels are not so good when it comes to carbon buildup and run performance. Channels like Chickanick she has shown that a lot of power equipment won't even run on some of this stuff, and there's many other's as well that have tested and shown just how dirty some of these fuels burn. End takeaway is find what work's in your area "magic bullet" and stick to it cause it may not work for someone else somewhere else. @@fabzacres-blackcat
@@StuInTheSticks Nope 👎 … I disagree … I have several saws with hundreds of hours on them that are like new inside with little to no carbon and the machine marks are STIHL visible on the piston - and yes the motomix contains STIHL ultra. Don’t take my word for it though , look at STIHLS 500hr continuous test using ultra - obviously someone is mistaken. In fact over in some parts of Europe alkylate fuels are mandatory and I’ve seen plenty of saws run with Motomix with 1000,1500 even 2000 hours on them that look mint inside. These European loggers swear by it - go ask them ! There is no “different mix oil” being used in different locations/markets when it comes to STIHL motomix whether you purchase it in NY or Stuttgart Germany 🇩🇪 so that statement is incorrect - it uses STIHL ultra as a mix oil and is a patented fuel - CANNOT be copied- you can peruse the msds sheets but they WILL NOT tell you EXACTLY what is in the mix oil but will tell u the composition of the alkylate fuel , which is infinitely superior to ANY pump gas I can buy up here in NY both in long term stability and composition … VP is another excellent fuel that exhibits excellent characteristics also … I cannot speak to characteristics/properties of any other canned fuels as I do not use them … why would I ? The bottom line here is that the quality of pump gas fluctuates between seasons (winter / summer blends) between geographic locations and between individual brands as they all get the same “base stock” and then add there own “additive packages” to the fuel just like the makers of 2-stroke mix oil all have there own “additive packages” that they use in their oils. I do not get any carbon build up although if I switch to local non ethanol pump gas using the same ultra mix oil I WILL get carbon build up in a rather short period of runtime - simple deductive logic will tell you that it is the FUEL that is causing the carbon build up NOT necessarily the STIHL ultra and as the saws are mtronic / autotune the “tuning” aspect is removed from the equation … STIHL motomix is not some “conspiracy” to sell you overpriced “snake oil as the manufacturers (who have r/d budgets in the millions of $) are WELL AWARE of the fact the quality of fuel fluctuates wildly from region to region and have engineered a fuel that will incur the best engine life/performance … As far as Mr Flagg is concerned , anyone who is doing a test using a brand of mix oil for ONE tank of fuel and then tears down the saw and somehow believes this is a valid comparison is a fool twice damned! I’ll take my real world experience and the multi million dollar engineering department of STIHL inc over some charlatan(s) talking out of his basement when it comes to this subject. You can argue otherwise until you are blue in the face but unless and until you show me video evidence (which I provide on my channel) showing a saw with hundreds of hours of runtime I’m sticking to my guns 💪. Tata
I've had a similar experience with the motul 800 2t. It wasn't very good in hedge cutter it blocked the exhaust up. In my dollys, it's not so bad @ 50:1 though I run shell 99v power in my saws not the 95 high ethanol crap, i think strato saws it will carbon up if you baby them and don't keep them pinned. Small limbing isn't that good, either. My 73-79s/9010 seem to run better on it, not noticed as much carbon as that husky, I would say probably works better in ported saw thats run hard in bigger timber, though I've got some motul 710 and it's noticeably thinner oil as it's for injection too and it does indeed run cleaner. Probaby will switch to that, and it seems to leave good oil film when looking in crankcase, I run it slightly more oil at 48-45:1👍
I dont even think that nd30 that we used before they sold 2 stroke specific oils was that bad.😂 I just run whatever is the cheapest by the gallon of oil at the parts store is. My 1971 Stihl just don't care. On the carbon we used to just spray some antifreeze down the carb when the saw is hot and running wide-open. Something in it just makes the carbon let loose of metals.
Great video Jake .
Thank you.
That saw has had the hound ran out of it ❤
Yes it has.
How full of debris are the cylinder fins in that filthy saw?
I’ve been running Schaeffers in my saws for the last few years and I’m sold give it a try and see what you think
Are you using Supreme 7000 or the newer 9000 series? I had looked into the 9000 but whew, it‘s twice as expensive as the 7000 and I have had good luck with it. Nice and clean.
@@kbittorf335 110 race gas I buy a 5 gal pale and mix 5gal at a time
Thanks for sharing Jake
Thanks for tuning in!
Dumonde Tech DTP Synthetic Racing Oil is the best 2 stroke oil on the planet!
Greatly appreciated!
Do you think fuel quality has very much to do with that much carbon buildup?
No
I’m sure it’s not a factor. Like I said I used to work for this guy and he has always ran clean premium non ethanol fuel.
@@jakemesa3211 Thanks. That was one of the oils I was looking at. I’m going to go with Bel Ray H1-R.
@@steppoffaith8426horseshit ! Fuel quality has everything to do with it ! That’s why I’ve got saws with hundreds of hours on them running motomix and they are like new insides whereas 10 gallons of non corn 🌽 (which is bullshit too because they are legally allowed up to 5% 🌽 even in pumps marked non ethanol) cause carbon build up even though the MIX OIL is the same in both …STIHL ultra ! Now …. What a lotta folk don’t realize/ are ignorant of is that the individual gas brands get their gas and then put their OWN ADDITIVE PACKAGE in the fuel ! That’s why someone can get gas in Crossbills Tennessee vs Buffalo New York and use the same g-damn mix oil / ratio / tune and his saw will run clean as a whistle whereas the other guys fuel will carbon up after 10gallons … I’ve done the tests / put the time in (motomix vs pump with ultra oil ) and can prove to 100% accuracy what I say is a FACT in my area with my fuel available! I’d say just run the g-damn alkylate fuel and be done with it ! They recommend the alkylate fuel right in the manual for chrissakes 😂! It ain’t no g-damn “conspiracy” to sell ya snake oil , the big 2 saw manufacturers are VERY aware of the fuel quality fluctuations around the USA / World where the saws gotta run from -20 to 100 degrees and at sea level to 10000ft elevation and belief u me , they don’t want to spend 1 penny more than they have to on warranty repairs … 🤷 why these guys are running 1 tank of fuel of oil “X” and then tearing down the saws and showing them ? That’s like trying to get a suntan bathing in moonlight - meaningless 😂
@@PurpleNovember Its almost always the fuel with these synthetics, stale fuel and bad tune/lots of idle will create carbon deposits on the exhaust port. I have over 2000h on my 500i and close to that on 881 and there's no carbon buildup, the entire muffler is covered in light brown ash from complete burn of the oil and gas. I run 32:1 on 500i motul 800 offroad. 25:1 on 881 on the mill. Regular 5% ethanol gas, always fresh. No issues. When I store my saws for more than 2 weeks I always run alkylated gas through them before storage. That's it.
There’s two different Motul 800 oils,one for off road and one for road racing,which one were you using?
Off-road
I have had really good luck with opti 2
That's what I've been running for the past few years. No trouble yet! Run it at 45-50:1 non ethanol
Thanks for the educational movie
What up Jake 😎
Just finished dinner. What about you brother?
@@jakemesa3211 chilln..been cold and snow
Interesting
I used klotz for a while and it looks exactly like motul when torn down
What Klotz did you use? I was going to try the R50
@@sprint2648I personally run both benol and R-50. R-50 is a bit cleaner
Honda HP2 is awesome
The husky oil is completely terrible so I switched to belray like a few years ago I haven’t had any problems and I did tear down a 200 t and the carbon wasn’t to bad but most of the time on that saw was on husky oil
Probably motul 710 is better for a chainsaw