I do admit - a pre-formed aftermarket line is a great option for most here. If you need to do this on your WJ, don't have any of the brake line bending/flaring tools, don't plan to bend lines in the future, and can wait for an order, then a pre-formed line will be faster and cheaper for you. And you can check video description for links to pre-formed options. But if you already have the tools, or want the learn or grow the ability to form your own lines, then you may choose to do as we did. (For me, I have amassed the tools, fittings, and stock of line from other jobs, so I can bend up a line immediately often without having to place orders or visit a parts store - a by-product of making several lines in the past for custom applications or cars where there are no aftermarket pre-made lines, and not throwing anything away!) But again - there are at least options for the WJ for pre-formed lines.
You should do one with a Ni-Copp brake line kit thats pre-cut. The Nickel copper is super easy to put through without pre-bending i hear and bend to brackets after. I have an '02 Jeep WJ 4.7 Laredo with Selec-Trac (VIN-N) I basically need to replace all my braje lines from master cylinder and caliper brake hoses. They are pretty rusty
My rear line blew out in the exact spot you showed in the video, got in one day ready to go to work and pressed the brake pedal to shift into drive and boom went straight to the floor, ordered Dorman 919238 pre made stainless line kit and popped it in on my gravel driveway way and they worked as advertised
Nice - I used a Dorman stainless kit on a 2001 F250 - the front lines fit great but the rear one was not even close. I ended up forming my own. To be fair the F250s come in several wheelbase, driveline, and cab styles so even though it was listed to fit for mine I can understand why they may have issues. Good to know the WJ kit worked for you. For most the preformed kits are the way to go. Over the years I've amassed the kit of tools and fittings so usually I can pop out and buy a $25 spool of line and form it up quickly, but if you had to buy tools just to fix your car the preformed kits are cheaper and faster at that rate. 👍
I did the rear brake lines on my 2001 WJ last year. Tracking down the right size compression fittings was the main PITA- its the old 'classic' style, I think you mentioned SAE?- modern metric ones don't fit. Once that was sorted, I brought copper/zinc line and a pipe cutter/flare kit off Ebay, then practised the double-flaring technique and swapped the whole lot out. On the 2001, there's a compression joint mid-way down the pipe under where the driver (left hand drive) or passenger (right hand drive) sits, which I used rather than having to go all the way to the ABS box- I count myself lucky in this regard as bubble flares are evil to master. Swapping out the flexi-hoses to the calipers and the rear lines where they join on the rear axle at the breather pipe was a doddle- the easiest parts of the whole swap out tbh. The hardest part was getting all of the old rusty hardware off- yet, you make it look so easy! Nice work!
I've got jeep grand Cherokee ltd crd ltd wj in U.K. has merc1.7ltr turbocharged diesel worse problem I've got is alarm keeps goin off usual when gets sun on vehicle, not been able to find cause of it ,cleaned door hood switchs not sure where else to look,no sun never a problem only activate in sun most peculiar!
That is an odd one - is it a factory alarm? I've not heard of that before, perhaps heat is causing a wire connection to expand and break, or touch causing a circuit to be made turning on the alarm. That may take some digging for sure...
I do admit - a pre-formed aftermarket line is a great option for most here. If you need to do this on your WJ, don't have any of the brake line bending/flaring tools, don't plan to bend lines in the future, and can wait for an order, then a pre-formed line will be faster and cheaper for you. And you can check video description for links to pre-formed options.
But if you already have the tools, or want the learn or grow the ability to form your own lines, then you may choose to do as we did. (For me, I have amassed the tools, fittings, and stock of line from other jobs, so I can bend up a line immediately often without having to place orders or visit a parts store - a by-product of making several lines in the past for custom applications or cars where there are no aftermarket pre-made lines, and not throwing anything away!)
But again - there are at least options for the WJ for pre-formed lines.
Great video with great info, really like the on screen tips that are provided! Really helpful! Ty!
You should do one with a Ni-Copp brake line kit thats pre-cut. The Nickel copper is super easy to put through without pre-bending i hear and bend to brackets after.
I have an '02 Jeep WJ 4.7 Laredo with Selec-Trac (VIN-N)
I basically need to replace all my braje lines from master cylinder and caliper brake hoses. They are pretty rusty
My rear line blew out in the exact spot you showed in the video, got in one day ready to go to work and pressed the brake pedal to shift into drive and boom went straight to the floor, ordered Dorman 919238 pre made stainless line kit and popped it in on my gravel driveway way and they worked as advertised
Nice - I used a Dorman stainless kit on a 2001 F250 - the front lines fit great but the rear one was not even close. I ended up forming my own. To be fair the F250s come in several wheelbase, driveline, and cab styles so even though it was listed to fit for mine I can understand why they may have issues. Good to know the WJ kit worked for you.
For most the preformed kits are the way to go. Over the years I've amassed the kit of tools and fittings so usually I can pop out and buy a $25 spool of line and form it up quickly, but if you had to buy tools just to fix your car the preformed kits are cheaper and faster at that rate. 👍
I did the rear brake lines on my 2001 WJ last year. Tracking down the right size compression fittings was the main PITA- its the old 'classic' style, I think you mentioned SAE?- modern metric ones don't fit. Once that was sorted, I brought copper/zinc line and a pipe cutter/flare kit off Ebay, then practised the double-flaring technique and swapped the whole lot out. On the 2001, there's a compression joint mid-way down the pipe under where the driver (left hand drive) or passenger (right hand drive) sits, which I used rather than having to go all the way to the ABS box- I count myself lucky in this regard as bubble flares are evil to master. Swapping out the flexi-hoses to the calipers and the rear lines where they join on the rear axle at the breather pipe was a doddle- the easiest parts of the whole swap out tbh. The hardest part was getting all of the old rusty hardware off- yet, you make it look so easy! Nice work!
Great video as always! I see we have similar work light operation procedures 😁
If only I really filmed how many times I knock the magnetic ones off!! 😂
👍
I've got jeep grand Cherokee ltd crd ltd wj in U.K. has merc1.7ltr turbocharged diesel worse problem I've got is alarm keeps goin off usual when gets sun on vehicle, not been able to find cause of it ,cleaned door hood switchs not sure where else to look,no sun never a problem only activate in sun most peculiar!
That is an odd one - is it a factory alarm? I've not heard of that before, perhaps heat is causing a wire connection to expand and break, or touch causing a circuit to be made turning on the alarm. That may take some digging for sure...