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Amazing Exposure Blending Technique For Architecture Photography
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- Flambient and HDR serve a purpose. BUT, this is my PREFERRED method for the best results when combining exposures for architecture and real estate photography. Luminosity masking is the key to the ultimate control and quality. This tutorial shows you how.
Get the Lumenzia panel here: bit.ly/3dpGeub
Greg's course is really worth it too if you're serious about earning in architectural photography!
ColorEfex is fantastic for bringing back contrast in a impactful yet refined way. It's part of an amazing set of tools that are genuinely useful for improving your photo editing. Check it out here: bit.ly/nik-collection-dxo
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This technique for combining bright exteriors with darker interiors into a seamless and believable scene is by far my favourite as it offers maximum control, AND the best results. Let me know what you think!
𝗥𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗺𝗲𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗱 𝗦𝗼𝗳𝘁𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗲
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𝗣𝗹𝘂𝗴𝗶𝗻𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗽𝗵𝗼𝘁𝗼𝗴𝗿𝗮𝗽𝗵𝗲𝗿𝘀
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𝗨𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
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🎵 Music when featured is from bit.ly/ATHookSounds
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Into architecture photography and editing? Check out my dedicated channel bit.ly/ATArchitecture I'll go over editing techniques, pricing and licencing and other tips to help you on the road to becoming a successful architectural photographer! 😀👍
Anthony, I'm a new subscriber, long time photographer, but new to architectural. I'm really enjoying your tutorials. Your pursuit of excellence and perfection for your work speaks right to me. Thank you so much for sharing! This is so helpful and as a previously retired professional, who used to do portraiture, I am excited to use these techniques for all photos of any genre. I will be going back to old photos and reworking them for fun. Really awesome. Your speed and efficiently, while a bit fast for this Texan lady, is very much appreciated. I just have to rewind a lot. :) Thank you! Regards from Texas!
I subscribe to dozens of photography channels on YT and, without a doubt, I learn more from you than anyone else. We recently finished a major renovation on our house in Florida and I’ve been using it to refine my architectural photo skill.
Great to hear. Congrats on the reno 😀
I am half way through and I truly appreciate the work done to create a balance between all three images in Lightroom. Most of the photographers skip this and mostly rely on PS whereas LR itself is really powerful. Very useful and fresh perspective.
Glad it was helpful!
Best exposure blending video that’s out there. Hands down. I’ve seen them all lol. Great work 💪🏻
Thanks for the tutorial Anthony...Your approach to walking through an edit is spot on!
Thanks Perry!
You should compare this tecnique with luminar neo and aurora hdr!
Yes, that's a good idea 💡
Awesome explanation as always Anthony. I've tried all your methods to date and this is by far the most controllable. Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos. They have been ever so helpful in my workflow. Keep'em coming 👍🏻
You're very welcome!
Love this technique. Your instruction is always on point! Lumenzia changed the way I edit. Loads of scenes where I wasn't happy with my HDR processing Lumenzia came to my rescue. Like you said - GAME CHANGER!
Yeah, Lumenzia for the win! 😀
Excellent work. Thank you for sharing that.
Thanks Houston 😀
I'm slowly transitioning from real estate to architecture and thanks to your videos im having fun while learning at the same time, thks a lot !
You're so welcome!
Thanks for this Anthony. Clear and easy to follow as you always are.
I moved away from Adobe, except for Bridge, but can apply this technique in Affinity Photo using luminosity masks and blending ranges. I’m fully in agreement about using Color Efex Pro for the final refinement, those two filters are great in so many applications. I always use them as a preparatory step before making B&W conversions in Silver Efex Pro, for example.
Thanks Kirk! 👍
great tutorial, thank you Anthony. I would love to see a video where you compare in which situation you will just flash and in which you dont need it
Great suggestion!
Really nice
Anthony, thank you so much for your tutorials. Long time photographer but new to real estate as my son is an agent and I am trying to help him. I have Lumenzia and Lightroom and trying to streamline workflow. If you could show how you handle organizing all of the files from a shoot. When I watch tutorials most instructors are demonstrating on a single set of 3-5 files. I had 180 in last shoot! Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. This is well scripted and thought through. Thank you Anthony!
I have lumenzia, and it’s a great plugin. I do find that TK Panels is more involved but once mastered, it offers a more comprehensive approach to image blending for me. There is no right or wrong choice- they are both excellent based in user needs.
A couple of things I like to always do, is open images into LR as smart objects, giving me access to RAW level data, if needed. I will eventually have to merge all layers (cmnd/shft/alt/E), to deconvolution sharpen selected areas of the image, but that is a last step after I have done all other edits. I end up with +4 GB file so need to save as a large image document- so I’m selective on this process for my absolute best files for my customers.
I also like to use the brush in highlight blend mode. I sometimes find this relieves the need to mask the mask, and is especially effective when I’ve taken the time to carefully prepare my images in LR. being able to go back into a smart object is quite helpful, as I start to uncover nuances in my image later in the edit stage that are better addressed at the RAW level.
I love Color Efex, and Luminar as plugins- they can be great for the right photo. But when I am lucky to capture amazing light, I find that less is more… I prefer to stay manual in my edits and avoid turn key plugins.
Everyone has their approach after proper fundamentals are intact, so I love to see others approaches. There is something so deeply satisfying to me when dodging/burning/painting light, contrast, and depth into an image using my Wacom/ Xencelabs tablet.
Great comment there Christopher. Yes, I'm a fan of smart objects for the same purpose. Having the raw data accessible later can be really useful. I might do a follow up vid. I'm just always aware when I put every bit of info I to a video and explain it they get very long, which can put a lot of people off.
Really appreciate your thoughts and insights. Cheers! 😀
That makes sense! I’d love to see a smart object example in your next video, and learn how you sharpen your images, as well as saving options, a master file, and a file for the customer.
Get the Lumenzia panel here: bit.ly/3dpGeub
Greg's course is really worth it too if you're serious about earning in architectural photography!
ColorEfex is fantastic for bringing back contrast in a impactful yet refined way. It's part of an amazing set of tools that are genuinely useful for improving your photo editing. Check it out here: bit.ly/nik-collection-dxo
Such a great video! You are very generous sharing your knowledge and you present it all in a pleasant way on a realistic example. I will certainly remember this video when the situation occurs.
Myself I prefer editing in DxO Photolab so blending is a bit of a problem for me. I did try the Adobe stuff a couple of times but eveytime after some editing attempts I decide that again it's not for me. If necessary I ask my cousin who does have the Adobe software to help me out. And I help him out with the DxO raw conversion of difficult and high-ISO captures.
I also own the Skylum software but don't use it that much, DxO is so easy for me having been using it for years now -just bought the version 6 upgrade, and gives beautiful results, especially if the capture is right in the first place. I do see its limitations but that's mostly on blending and stacking. Your use of Lumenzia and Nik was a pleasant surprise as I bought the first for my cousin and we use it for architecture and I do own the and use the latter myself. It's nice to see a professional use them in an everyday situation.
Jan
Thanks for the comment 👍😀 Much appreciated.
My eye is not sharp enough to tell any difference, let alone which one is better. But I loved your demo. I've been wondering how to handle lens distortion and HDR at the same time, and you've answered that question for me. Maybe Skylum will help out in the future.
Hi again Anthony. Just as I thought, Ps and Lr are far more complex and difficult to use than Luminar Neo, you even had to purchase and add a Lumenzia plug-in to help mask your variations in luminosity, whereas Skylum needs no extras. The fact you took 30 minutes to create this video, compared to less than 20 when using Luminar Neo says it all! I believe that Neo+Affinity seems to be the best combination! Cheers! Felix the Cat. 😼
in previous tutorials You (and also myself) could reach the same or even a bit higher quality image using the HDR merging method in Neo or just PS with ACR, and so much faster !
Good oldie method tho :)) Nice work !
Hi Anthony, this is a follow on comment from your later video; comparing Ps and Luminar Neo. Just a thought but if you combine Luminar Neo (the Lightroom alternative) with Affinity Photo (the Photoshop alternative). I'm sure you could the same results, if not better, at a far cheaper price and without subscription! Regards from Felix the Cat. 🐱
Great video!! Really love LUMENZIA panel!! This so should be native to LR!! How does Lumenzia work given the constant LR updates? Have you ever had an issue where a LR update "broke" your Lumenzia panel/features?
Yes, Lumenzia is a game changer! You're right that LR with its ability to mask based on luminosity is now another way to tackle this type of blending problem. But, I still prefer the precision of Lumenzia.
Anthony in the past i have seen you utilizing aurora hdr and also the new plug in for neo. Is this a technique that you have recently learned ? With out rewatching the other videos my initial impression is luminosity masking is providing you more precise control. As someone else mentioned it would be interesting to see a comparison video sharing the advantages/disadvantages of each technique and the final images. I always appreciate you sharing your thought process with the videos.
Hi. Yes, as mentioned in the vid I use all those approaches. Each has its benefits. Aurora is lovely and quick, but as an app it's discontinued. Luminar's merge to HDR also is an excellent choice but as you noticed, doesn't give the same level of control. That's why I use this for my high end archi work. I've been doing it for years. 😀
@@AnthonyTurnham i appreciate the thoughtful response. I have only followed you about a year now and this was the first time seeing you utilize this technique. I have considered lumenzia several times and will just have to get. I keep cultivating my attention to fine details especially since my winter project is to advance in compositing. Again I really appreciate your videos.
Fantastic as usual; always look forward to your videos. Looking at the beautiful photos under the architectural section of your website, how many were edited this way as opposed to alternative methods like HDR etc? Also, are you offering other services such as video or drone? Thank you for this, brilliant.
Hi Alan. Thanks 😊. How many were done like this is hard for me to recall now. Maybe 50%? It's my fav technique but not always necessary.
Yes I do drone photography where needed, but no video work for clients. 🙂
@@AnthonyTurnham Thanks for getting back to. Best to you.
My pleasure@@alanabley525 Without you watching and commenting, I'm just a guy sat talking to my camera 🤣
whitout color efex can i done this with the curve? the questione and the doubt was, if with the reintroduction of the contrast i lost all my work (or a piece of my work)because i close the shadow for example.
Would using a grey card in your scene for white balance be more beneficial or not worth the extra frame and effort when doing HDR? I have found it useful for flambient when I have dark or orange / blond toned wood floors and white walls to help narrow down color cast a bit easier - but never really thought about it for HDR layers.....love your tutorials. I primarily shoot residential RE with flambient, but you make me want to try HDR!
Tbh I ditched grey cards years back. My preference was for the expo disk over the lens for greater accuracy, however I found the time on site greater than the micro seconds to fix in post. For MOST situations I've trained my eye to be able to get it right very easily, but for scenes with crazy colours then sure an onsite reading would be beneficial.
@@AnthonyTurnham I did grey cards for a while too, then Expodisk, both of which were a bit of a pain for different reasons... then I discovered that "pure white" fixtures were more reliable, and there is almost always one in an area where I need to sample, like a light switch or plug outlet cover, sink, etc.
Hi Anthony, thanks for your videos I did pick up many things watching your videos .
I used Luminar Ai , it did make the image pop quite a lot but at the same time introduced a lot of noise and softened the image , have you come across this problem and what’s the solution if any
Cheers
Not softening no. Sometimes if you push the process too aggressively with detail enhancements then noise can get caught up in that and get accentuated. Thankfully now Luminar has Noiseless AI as an extension that can be added in to the workflow to mitigate this.
Anthony, i find myself constantly losing a lot of contrast. I want all the details from the window. Is it possible?
Anthony, I curious about the reflections on the TV and some faint ones on the windows. Do you try to remove those or are they just a natural part of the scene?
I don't worry too much unless it's really distracting. I might desaturate the tv reflection a bit and darken it down, but not fully remove.
I see this as an issue also with a lot of portrait work, especially family / group photos. The back ground highlights are blown out and usually skin tones under or over exposed.
It's possible to use it, but you can't guarantee they won't move between shots.
@@AnthonyTurnham agree. Thanks for all of your NEO videos. Learn a lot from them.
No worries@@allenoakley1799. Re the portraits, if they're pretty static, you're on a tripod and using high speed burst mode, movement between shots might not be an issue.
Quick question - at 16:54, could you just merge the three optimised images you made in LRC as HDR and not PS? How would that work out? Also, I have shots with blinds, Venetian, plantation shutters - these seem to get affected with ay method I've tried. Your open pane windows I find are easy to do with basic masking. So what do you do with blinds? Cheers - and Subbed!
With venetian blinds etc I'd either be using a flash fill layer and combining that in post, or using precision luminosity masking with Lumenzia bit.ly/3dpGeub in PS to bring back the highlights. I cover more on that on my other channel: bit.ly/ATArchitecture
Thanks @@AnthonyTurnham much appreciate. I've had Easy Panel for a while which is similar to Lumenzia in the basics, but I've tried all the masks it creates, as well as a tailored one - and it just won't work. I trialled Lumenzia Lite after watching lots of your videos and it too cannot create a luminosity mask that is effective for windows. Looking out of my bright window for example, (looking upwards from down) I first see light concrete, then a dark grey fence leading to a house, leading to the sky. Light, dark, light and dark, lighter. The light mask does the sky and a bit of the concrete, then another darks mask will bring back the fence, but affects the concrete and the house. Nightmare! ha ha. I'm on a mission to get this to work. None of the HDR methods work (I have lots of editors), cutting out with PS is too time consuming. So I might have to buckle and go the flash/darken method. I really don't want to though... Cheers so much for the feedback :)
Did you do fake tilt shift on purpose to get better outside view and more furniture in the shot?
I usually set the camera to what I consider to be the appropriate height and then tilt up or down to frame the amount of floor vs ceiling. Then in post I'll correct the verticals to parallel. This is the process I go through and it results in the tilt-shift corrected look but done with a standard 16mm lens.
Do you still use flash on your shoots or do you skip the flash altogether now? I typically shoot residential with smaller spaces and I use flash to fix color and tame highlights (a pseudo-flambient leaning more towards ambient. I prefer the ambient look). The issue is I’m starting to get shoots with bigger spaces, and I’m realizing the limitations of my current method. I’m curious because I have been thinking about going full ambient, but don’t have the confidence to do it. Seeing this, now I just might.
Nice one. I use exposure blending predominantly. I like the nice realistic feel it gives. But yes, I still use flash in my work for problem solving certain situations. Colour casts, reflections, some window pulls (but rare). Just keep practicing as you go and you'll end up with a tool kit of skills you can call on for any situation! 😀
So you shoot with the lights off, so you can reduce color cast?? Does this technique work with lights on during the shoot??
Sure. I just don't like having the lights on. Aside from giving a different colour temperature to the natural daylight, it's also like it's saying to the viewer, "hey this is a dark home and needs to have it's lights on during the day". Just a personal preference with that.
I gave Lumeniza a try but I can’t seem to get the dark layer right. The outside always comes out overly muted or looks like deghosting in HDR. I watched your tutorial to the tee but can’t seem to get the outside layer to look like the original.
If you load the layers as Smart Objects that'll allow you to go back into the develop settings of each layer and play around after the masks have been created. That'll help you identify which sliders aren't set right and help you get a handle on how to prep the files better.
@@archiphoto Hey Anthony, having the same issue. Soon as the L is applied to the highlights layer it kinda loos like a weird gamma or something. If tried smart objects, adjusting, been at it for hours now. and always the same issues. looks awesome. Any ideas?
Can we replicate this inside of Luminar Neo?
Funny you should ask, Greg. I'm putting a video together at the moment looking at just that!!!
@@AnthonyTurnham Excellent! Look forward to that one Anthony.
Able to do with Luminar Neo?
Using HDR Merge would solve the problem, but it automates ghe blend whereas this way gives you manual control. There's pros and cons to each approach.
@@AnthonyTurnham Was wondering if there's a workaround to do windows pulls on Luminar neo as it has the layer options. Would really love to see a video of you editing high end real estate using luminar neo.
F$ck me this is amazing. Thank you for putting this together.
Thanks Dylan. Glad it's been useful! I've built a whole architecture photography business off the back of this technique 👌😎
I just use AI masking in Capture One. Highlight all the windows with one click and drop the exposure and fine tune.
Nice. How do you find the accuracy of the AI masking? Any fringing or halos or is it reliable?
@@AnthonyTurnham the masking is pretty reliable. Depends on the shape of the window, but if the mask misses sections you just click again on the missing areas to add them. I'll post an example which I did last week using just C1 and Magic AI masking
let me get this straight, you have a light worth 1500$ from Godox and this is the technique you end up using instead of flashing the windows?
Absolutely 😀
Cheers for watching