i’m not really sure why it’s called a performance clutch but I think it could be the stiffer springs, you see when the springs are stiffer the clutch allows the engine to rev higher before it’s engage, but as i said, not sure;) Btw GREAT channel! keep it up:D
Hmmm. You can see that the performance clutch has 2 bigger sides and stock 3 smaller sides, so probably more surface area contact on the performance one
If it’s screw on Teflon high temp gas tape is probably the best option, you can also use high temp caulking the kind that is used for wood stove chimneys
I found a very easy way to take out the clutch and flywheel.I heat it up and when its heat up i use some syringe with water and spray a bit into the shaft's thread to cool it down then a little pry with screwdriver and comes right off. Idk if this can damage the shaft in any way(prob can) but if you need to replace the shaft its pretty neat.
A quality clutch should come balanced.Also it looks like it has longer clutch material pads/shoes for less slippage unless material is a harder compound.Stiffer springs means higher stall.
Hello, you could use a 52cc brushcutter carburetor it can work in any position, it use gas under pressure and let you control the pass of gas. If you have questions about how to adapt this carburetor to your engine send me a inbox, greetings.
I can confirm this is definitely correct... this gear box is essentially a torq increasing device so that these little engines can still turn the wheels when used on dirt bike models that feature knobbly tyres. The offroad terrain and tyre tread increase wheel resistance requiring more turning force "torq" to move the wheels and propel the bike over the given terrain. This will drop top end speed but slightly bump acceleration. #BoonanaJ
I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust leak regarding power loss... that pipe is not scientifically accurate nor specifically tuned to that engine... it's just providing a rough "average" mid ranged performance retention over a standard straight pipe or horticultural equipment exhaust. The end stage that is leaking is purely there for sound reduction, and if you were to remove that shroud you'd simply find a smaller pipe with holes all over it like the tip on the bike you shoved the energy drink can on. If you want to seal it, then exhaust putty or stove sealant and a jubilee clip would be a quick and easy fix. You could however remove it all together, and weld on a 2-3 inch section of pipe similar in internal diameter to the internal pipe with holes in. When I say similar I mean same internal diameter or slightly less (not bigger, this would cost you back-pressure that may not be desirable, although if you are happy to tinker, could be worth testing). #BoonanaJ
what mix ratio are you using, i know they normally recommend 25/1 but i find mine (similar upgradres) runs sweeter on 32/1 and has been for the last year
25/1 is really for breaking the engine in and a safe mix to cap performance while increase engine longevity. A leaner mix like 32/1 will naturally yield more performance due to the viable fuel increase... using premium fuel with a race grade lubricant will also increase performance since the octane content will be higher and the lubricant will work more efficiently. 42-50/1 could be used providing: The engine is already run in The engine is in top maintenance The engine is of a good quality with a suitable level of chroming/liner to the cylinder chamber wall. You are using race grade 2-Stoke lubricant. For cheap mini bike engines I wouldn't go above 42/1, and as always when changing ratios, do it in steps, one tank at a time and check the colour of your spark plugs and emissions/exhaust fumes. If there are no obvious signs like engine stalling, these will indicate what is happening and always check the plug if the engine does stall before you restart. You're looking for a healthy golden brown colour... any signs of bright yellow or white and you're engine is unhappy running that lean... go back to a richer mixture. #BoonanaJ
What oil ratio do you use on this engine. I have a pocket dirt bike with the same engine but it says to do a 25:1 mix which uses lots of oil and smoke like crazy
A nitro-methane/methanol/caster oil/synthetic oil mix fuel such as that used in radio controlled cars or top fuel racers isn't particularly compatible with these engines... Yes they are both two stroke engines and nitro-methane based fuel is a two stroke intended fuel, however the engines are designed for completely different power and lubrication profiles... not to mention the fact that you would ideally have to swap the sparkplug for a glow system (not 100% required but works better). If you did custom jet the carb, rebuild the carb with nitro proof seals, replace literally every seal in the engine to be nitro compatible and not dissolve, then managed to dial in the carb settings perfectly... it's likley it would make a huge mess out the exhaust, guzzle fuel like crazy, and generally not give you much joy compared to just using a petrol oil mix. Plus you would jave to completely drain the bike and carb of any fuel after use to prevent corrosion, then treat the engine with after run oil. It's fine for r/c cars that are designed to run it as a fuel and resists the pitfalls of the fuel. The same goes for race cars that run on it... the engines are completely rebuilt after every race so that sidesteps the fact that nitro/methanol fuel fouls and corrodes aluminium alloys. By all means explore this in the name of curiosity, but be aware that this is a big and mighty rabbit hole with nothing particularly exciting at the bottom. #BoonanaJ
Great videos always dude with those little gearboxes the oil that come with isn't very good so I'd recommend changing it out for something a little better like some 75w 90 gear oil
Regarding getting the clutch off, and I'm not speaking from personal experience but just saying, it will come off easier if you use a torch on the clutch AROUND the axle (not heating the axle itself). Kind of like putting a peanut butter jar lid under hot water so that it expands away from the inner threading and comes off easier. In such a case, I would use vice grips or channel locks to try and wiggle the clutch free. I'm just trying to offer some helpful, practical advice for anyone attempting this without a clutch puller :)
As other people have commented, the stronger clutch springs mean that it engages later. That way, when it finally does engage, it REALLY engages! But if the engine itself isn't in the "performance" category, then it's not very important to have. Having a "non performance" clutch with a "performance" engine means that the clutch will engage too early (e.g. during normal idling even) and causes excess friction and heat, and also engages when you don't *really* need it to engage. I would say it's analogous to the use of high octane fuel with a performance engine.....the higher octane fuel prevents pre-ignition (i.e. backfiring), but isn't at all required in an engine with average compression.
those clutches are great more surface area and the clutch and the springs are stiffer witch will make the clutch engage 500-1000 rpm later
i’m not really sure why it’s called a performance clutch but I think it could be the stiffer springs, you see when the springs are stiffer the clutch allows the engine to rev higher before it’s engage, but as i said, not sure;)
Btw GREAT channel! keep it up:D
Hmmm. You can see that the performance clutch has 2 bigger sides and stock 3 smaller sides, so probably more surface area contact on the performance one
If it’s screw on Teflon high temp gas tape is probably the best option, you can also use high temp caulking the kind that is used for wood stove chimneys
You should make a pocket dirt bike or pocket bike with timber sled witch is a snowmobile kit for your motorcycle would be super awesome in the snow
I found a very easy way to take out the clutch and flywheel.I heat it up and when its heat up i use some syringe with water and spray a bit into the shaft's thread to cool it down then a little pry with screwdriver and comes right off. Idk if this can damage the shaft in any way(prob can) but if you need to replace the shaft its pretty neat.
Strings are stiffer on the clutch so the rpm is higher when it grips
A quality clutch should come balanced.Also it looks like it has longer clutch material pads/shoes for less slippage unless material is a harder compound.Stiffer springs means higher stall.
you have a clutch you can adjust the springs in it by turning bolts
Give this video a LIKE for me !!
I had some questions in this one
Will you be mounting this motor to pocket bike?
You should make a full how to build a pocket bike movie 🎥 🍿 🏍
this decrease speed and increase power
Hello, you could use a 52cc brushcutter carburetor it can work in any position, it use gas under pressure and let you control the pass of gas.
If you have questions about how to adapt this carburetor to your engine send me a inbox, greetings.
He recommended a CVT transmission. That is not a CVT. Lol. Its no different than running a big rear sprocket. More acceleration, WAY less top end.
I can confirm this is definitely correct... this gear box is essentially a torq increasing device so that these little engines can still turn the wheels when used on dirt bike models that feature knobbly tyres. The offroad terrain and tyre tread increase wheel resistance requiring more turning force "torq" to move the wheels and propel the bike over the given terrain.
This will drop top end speed but slightly bump acceleration.
#BoonanaJ
The keyway is an extra safety measure, some engines use it, some does not. if you torque it to spec it will almost never fall off.
Robin Sundell yea I figured that so there’s no slippage but they should provide the key with it.
I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust leak regarding power loss... that pipe is not scientifically accurate nor specifically tuned to that engine... it's just providing a rough "average" mid ranged performance retention over a standard straight pipe or horticultural equipment exhaust.
The end stage that is leaking is purely there for sound reduction, and if you were to remove that shroud you'd simply find a smaller pipe with holes all over it like the tip on the bike you shoved the energy drink can on.
If you want to seal it, then exhaust putty or stove sealant and a jubilee clip would be a quick and easy fix.
You could however remove it all together, and weld on a 2-3 inch section of pipe similar in internal diameter to the internal pipe with holes in. When I say similar I mean same internal diameter or slightly less (not bigger, this would cost you back-pressure that may not be desirable, although if you are happy to tinker, could be worth testing).
#BoonanaJ
I'll stick with my dual chain one. Wich seems to be the upgraded norm.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that gets lost in my videos
The clutch may require an "advanced timing rocket key"
Are you serious or stupid ? 😅
I used to have a pocket 4wheeler and I bought a clutch and it had a key way but my crank didn't I just put it on and had no problems
what mix ratio are you using, i know they normally recommend 25/1 but i find mine (similar upgradres) runs sweeter on 32/1 and has been for the last year
25/1 is really for breaking the engine in and a safe mix to cap performance while increase engine longevity.
A leaner mix like 32/1 will naturally yield more performance due to the viable fuel increase... using premium fuel with a race grade lubricant will also increase performance since the octane content will be higher and the lubricant will work more efficiently.
42-50/1 could be used providing:
The engine is already run in
The engine is in top maintenance
The engine is of a good quality with a suitable level of chroming/liner to the cylinder chamber wall.
You are using race grade 2-Stoke lubricant.
For cheap mini bike engines I wouldn't go above 42/1, and as always when changing ratios, do it in steps, one tank at a time and check the colour of your spark plugs and emissions/exhaust fumes. If there are no obvious signs like engine stalling, these will indicate what is happening and always check the plug if the engine does stall before you restart. You're looking for a healthy golden brown colour... any signs of bright yellow or white and you're engine is unhappy running that lean... go back to a richer mixture.
#BoonanaJ
It will increase acceleration and torque but decrease top speed and output rpm
Where can I find parts for these engines? I have a few I want to pull out of the shed that have been in there for more than ten yrs
I ran both style "gearboxes" on the same pocketrocket
I never noticed a diffrence
Ford For Life ok I’ll have to test the differences, thanks
@@jaguars004 yet again i was running the olderstyle 49cc engine so that could be the difference who knows
Saw a vid of someone mod one of these gear boxes so it holds oil . Had a drain screw and he made a gasket didnt show if it helps though 😝
Did u get round 2 puttin ur engine in a bike. I clockex mine and managed 2 get 35 out of it. But i feel it could mebbies hit a little higher
You could try silicone for the exhaust leak
What oil ratio do you use on this engine. I have a pocket dirt bike with the same engine but it says to do a 25:1 mix which uses lots of oil and smoke like crazy
25 is the run in mix... bump it up to 32/1, reset the gap on your plug or replace it, and be prepared to potentially retune your carb
#BoonanaJ
They also make what’s called a rocket key
Can you change the sprocket to fit a 415 chain to build a motorized bicycle. Where can I find a replacement sprocket? Thanks.
Hi dylon did you find out about the electric starter
You can only replace them so if it didn't come on the engine previously it doesn't fit. Unless you make a custom fit.
Use some high temp liquid gasket
It runs better without airfilter.
Use a smaler jet when usingvthis filter or take a panty lol.
Like your vids keep it up
I have a 49cc stand on scooter and it has twice the power after I removed the gearbox
What clutch did you use?
@@rhettdugas735 pocket bike clutch is the same and also the goped clutch
You should make a custom gt snow racer with a mini trac on it
What bolts does the engine use? Last owner of my bike opened the engine and apparently lost all the screw so every screw is different
IdlyCaustic the mounting bolts? Or what ones are you talking about?
@@jaguars004 like the Alan wrench bolts the engines use
The screws are all metric, you can measure the holes to find what you need.
is there any 2 gear transmission for these type of engines?
Ikr I was looking for one too
Why can't i find the pokemon pocket bike video?
Love the motor just don't think that bannnana looking thing if a exhuast benefits power much lol that transmission is pretty cool
Yea I'm working on a plan to test multiple exhausts.
@@jaguars004 cool
Can you try rc fuel. You may need to put way bigger jets if you will try it.
Sajed Eid whats rc fuel?
@@jaguars004 its nitro methanol. Or fuel for small rc engines. Its expensive but will definitely give you power.
A nitro-methane/methanol/caster oil/synthetic oil mix fuel such as that used in radio controlled cars or top fuel racers isn't particularly compatible with these engines...
Yes they are both two stroke engines and nitro-methane based fuel is a two stroke intended fuel, however the engines are designed for completely different power and lubrication profiles... not to mention the fact that you would ideally have to swap the sparkplug for a glow system (not 100% required but works better).
If you did custom jet the carb, rebuild the carb with nitro proof seals, replace literally every seal in the engine to be nitro compatible and not dissolve, then managed to dial in the carb settings perfectly... it's likley it would make a huge mess out the exhaust, guzzle fuel like crazy, and generally not give you much joy compared to just using a petrol oil mix. Plus you would jave to completely drain the bike and carb of any fuel after use to prevent corrosion, then treat the engine with after run oil.
It's fine for r/c cars that are designed to run it as a fuel and resists the pitfalls of the fuel. The same goes for race cars that run on it... the engines are completely rebuilt after every race so that sidesteps the fact that nitro/methanol fuel fouls and corrodes aluminium alloys.
By all means explore this in the name of curiosity, but be aware that this is a big and mighty rabbit hole with nothing particularly exciting at the bottom.
#BoonanaJ
Where do I buy the escape?
How to I fix a gear on that engine
Isn’t that a single speed gearbox ?
Yea it changes the ratio though
That "channel" I think you're talking about is Bikeberry
Jb weld for the exhaust leak
You should put this engine on a bicycle
Great videos always dude with those little gearboxes the oil that come with isn't very good so I'd recommend changing it out for something a little better like some 75w 90 gear oil
Nice
Increasing top speed and torque or pickup with a gearbox is impossible. It's one or the other...
2:50 I would recommend JB Weld, off the top of my head. Don't take this as professional advice LOL
Regarding getting the clutch off, and I'm not speaking from personal experience but just saying, it will come off easier if you use a torch on the clutch AROUND the axle (not heating the axle itself). Kind of like putting a peanut butter jar lid under hot water so that it expands away from the inner threading and comes off easier. In such a case, I would use vice grips or channel locks to try and wiggle the clutch free. I'm just trying to offer some helpful, practical advice for anyone attempting this without a clutch puller :)
As other people have commented, the stronger clutch springs mean that it engages later. That way, when it finally does engage, it REALLY engages! But if the engine itself isn't in the "performance" category, then it's not very important to have. Having a "non performance" clutch with a "performance" engine means that the clutch will engage too early (e.g. during normal idling even) and causes excess friction and heat, and also engages when you don't *really* need it to engage. I would say it's analogous to the use of high octane fuel with a performance engine.....the higher octane fuel prevents pre-ignition (i.e. backfiring), but isn't at all required in an engine with average compression.
I love how you mount it to a pallet!!!
That’s a gear reducer
Try silicone
j b weld
Racing go kart😂