Atlas Ten Inch Lathe Headstock Gear & Pulley Replacement Belt Change
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2013
- Another video in the series of the upgrade and retrofit of my ten inch Atlas lathe. In this one I am replacing the gears and pulley in the headstock. It is the same procedure as changing a belt. Enjoy and look for more project videos to come.
Excellent video! I'm restoring a QC-42 and that's the assembly I need to remove, clean and replace (with a newold bull gear) everything. It's so caked up with grease I didn't know where to start. Thank you sir!
Mate! I purchased a secondhand Atlas 10L that was in pretty bad shape. It needed replacement headstock bearings and new belts. I didn’t know where to start until I found your extremely detailed and easy to follow video. It’s all done now and running like a dream thanks to you taking the time to make this video. Your a gem. Alex in Australia.
Very good reference video for disassembling the Atlas headstock. That whole business with the Woodruff key on the inboard side is completely non-intuitive, so you've likely saved some people some heartache by demonstrating it so well. I've become disenchanted with the link belts and may tackle this job on my Atlas 12. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for making this video. I just got a pick-o-matic with the same drive setup that needs belts and some cleaning up and I was honestly a little nervous about it. Your video was so detailed and well explained, I can't wait to get out to the shop and dig into it.
A hundred thousand thanks! I have a 12" Atlas and somehow the locking pin ,in the bull gear, had jumped the retaining pin . I had to take the spindle out to get to the retaining pin and lock pin. I don't think it had ever been out. I had the exploded view and the cross section drawing. After losing everything the spindle only moved about a 1/4'. I wasn't sure if driving on the spindle more would hurt anything. But after spray lubricant and tapping back and forth with a rubber mallet it came out.
I've taken table saws , routers, shapers, molders, joiners, and thickness planers apart but not till now the head stock of a metal lathe . Thank you for this video.
Thanks for the info, it made that belt change easy, found pitts on my bearings so replaced them and the races too.
Nice clear cut video, bookmarked & shared! Thanks for making the video....I recently got a 12 x 36 with QCGB and will reference this when the time comes to maintenance the headstock :)
Thanks. The belts on my 10-inch Atlas need changing and this video helps a lot. They sound like heck in back gears, but that just Atlas. I wish mine had the QC gearbox. Thanks again.
Thanks for the helpful video. That woodruff key is not obvious! I did find a spec on preloading the bearings in an old Atlas Owners manual. Run the spindle for about an hour, then tighten until the bull gear spins about 1/2 revolution when given a spin as you did.
This video is exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Good video, needed this info for a Craftsman 12 that I just bought over the weekend and need to tear it down all to inspect the spindle and bearings. Thanks for the tips.
I have the 12 in too. It is not branded Craftsman though, it is an Atlas.
I have a South Bend 9 in lathe now since the last time I watched your video, but that was fun to watch. I guess you have done that a time or two, considering the ease at which you performed all that. Looking forward to more videos...thanks...Ken
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking.
I just got one of these a day before it was destined for the scrapyard. It's dirty, grimy & ugly. The first thing I thought was, how am I getting that vee belt off??? Well, now I know part of the process!!!
(I'm not going with one of those link belts)
Thanks alot , you helped me greatly 😆
Life saver. Saved me a hard night
Thanks for the great video, and for thinking out loud. It sure helps when you are communicating your thoughts to the viewer. Keep the videos coming, I look forward to them. My only question is when changing the belt there must be another part that has to come off forward off all those gears at the other end. Maybe I missed that video.
Thanks...
Ken
God thank you sir!!! I'm restoring one I found in my local scrap yard and this helped me so so so much! One question I still have is the holes under those two oil cup reservoirs don't come through the bearing races, I can't figure out if its a factory mistake and I should drill them out because they don't seem to oil anything!
Excellent T/Y.!
muy bien me sirvió mucho, gracias :)
I know this has been on here a while but what I heard on tightening colar is to go til there is no end playvthen go to next tooth for proper tightening. Someone said it's in the manual . Nice job !!
Thanks so much for posting this. I'd have been stuck but for this and a couple of similar videos.
Video much appreaciated...have rebuilt screw machines at work but picked up a 12 inch.chraftsman for personal use and converting to a underdrive.. see this clears up dissambely...thanks..oh oddly...on end of bed there chraftsmann id/ serial num...and if you check or rear side...says Atlas
Great video, Im in the process of restoring a QC42 and this is a great video, one question what is the size and type of v-belt for the drive are you using?
Thanks
Bill
You can get brass tipped set screws for the lock nut and other areas that need some protection from getting marred. The screw that baffles you is an oil port not a set screw. Good job though!
The mystery set screw is actually a oil hole plug for lubing the pulley bushings.
there is also a plug in backgear shaft midway between the gears for oiling
Nice Lathe, i bough an about the same same and i want to change the bearings to a cone closed one type so i can skip the oiling thing, do you think it's ok to do that mod?
And another question if you might.
The gears that are behing the headstock what are those for?
The litle gears down is for the threading or just for the autofeed?
Does this maching has threading capabilities?
The set screw you see no use for is a oil port. You put oil in it just like any other oil port.
Very similar disassembly to the Atlas 618 lathe head stock.
You have to pull the back gears for the belt. Any reason you didn't go with a link belt?
The bearing shield has a v-groove that needs to be vertical to allow oil to lube the spindle bearings.
I use your videos as a master for working on my Craftsman 12". Would like to see more but I do not wish breakdowns on you.
Dan Bentler
Seattle
That looks a great deal like my Logan 200. If anyone would be so kind as to measure the diameter and count the teeth on the back gears that would be great.
The screw in the spindle pulley is for oiling when backgears are used atlas manual under oiling chart.
I've got an old craftsman 10in and am missing the top cover....it's blue. Would love to have it complete with the cover.
screw on pulley is for oiling spindle and bushes when back gears are engaged, not a grub/set screw just a plug
I have 4-lathes. 2-10" Atlas, 1-6" Atlas, i 13 x47 one from the East. I never took the Atlas 10" one apart so I thank you for these details because I never seen these parts separated before, except the 6" Atlas which I completely rebuilt.
In the same time I feel sorry for you working so much for a belt change, not even mentioning the work has to be done at the back-gear. I replaced all V-belts by Link-belts, no effort and no power needed, which I do not have anyway at the age of 88. Link-belt works perfect into both directions. At the 10" Atlas to change from the larger to the next pulley I had to grind out a tiny bit from the inside of the casting. A 5 min. job
What I would like to know: what are those two holes for, in the casting just under the opening. where you close the top of the head-casting?? Thanks anyway. Use the LINK-belt you will not regretting.
The Old Bob
Hi old bob! I've just gotten an atlas and was also wondering what those two holes are for, did you ever figure it out?
How difficult is it to change the bearings that the main spindle run in? My LH one makes an incredible racket and although the lathe, which is new to me just recently, seems to have very little wear and tear generally, I think that my LH main bearing needs to be changed. Thoughts or advice?
Thanks,
Brian H.
+Brian Hambleton It's not very hard at all. If you follow the instructions to remove the spindle, the only thing you have to do is knock out the outer race and pull off the roller bearing from the spindle.
good
Does anyone know what sizes the v-belts are? I just inherited the same model as in this video, and need to order belts for it.
Good evening, I have a lathe atlas with a model 2720 motor, it lacks the capacitor, could you tell me the capacity of the capacitor? Thank you
Do you ever put any grease on the roller bearings? I could hear some noise like metal to metal when you turned the spindle. Also I've never noticed anyone putting any oil on the gears. Is this correct....
Atlas lathes are notoriously noisy
To adjust the bearing pre load snug up the bearing not too much and run the spindle for a while. If the bearing stays cool tighten it a little at a time until the get just slightly slightly warm to the touch. If too warm back them off a little. Also mine has a small notch on the inner bearing cap just the size of the key so you can leave the key in for easy assembly.
Also also I marked the spot where the set screw on the big gear hits the shaft, took the whole thing back apart and drilled a small divot. This keeps the big gear from sliding.
How many times have you had this apart? I asked because my lathe is not as cooperative as yours is. I am glad that I had your video to go by, it was very helpful. I took mine apart just enough to put the pin back in the bull gear last night. I did notice that the key under that same gear is not showing itself on either side and will be a challenge in the future. Thanks again, Lee
A few, why do you ask?
lee underwood and
Where can I get parts for this lathe ? I have a 10-27440
Why so noisy? I am no expert-I hardly make even bungling amateur status but it sounded to me as if the bearings needed replacing or refitting.
Thanks for doing these videos, they are a great help to me and I could watch them all day and all night as I love machines and learning how they work.
Best Wishes to you ciladog!
All Atlas 10's sound like combines lol. Perfectly normal :)
@@Tater79bj Straight cut gears are always noisey...
i cant believe how easily that came apart, i practically needed a press tp remove my gears.
that screw that always baffles you: It is an oil hole, I had a Macson flat belt 1 tonner, it clearly had "OIL" stamped on it, to oil the bushings in back gear.
oil every month or so
Do you just take the screw out to oil it or is it supposed to have an oil fitting? Mine as the screw also, thanks
the screw is a plug take it out to oil, put it back in to stop the belt slipping!
Tell Bob Mullins he also needs the drawbar with his collets, and try changing the belt or back gears on a Atlas MFC mill
Great video but for one thing. Tomorrow I'm going to take apart my headstock but it hasn't been apart for 70 years....Not at all like yours that is all fresh and oiled up. I'm gonna need a bigger hammer and more heat!!
Aren’t you supposed to run grease on those bearings??
Hello Friend; I have an atlas around 10 inches and I'm not getting the table gears grid. I wonder if the friend could provide me. other doubt I have is; this opens around millimeter threads? Friendly hug and Congratulations for your video. Paulo Furtado.
Paulo Furtado qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
When you had the two spindle taper-roller bearings out, would it have been a good idea to degrease and repack those bearings?
+Ed Price No grease, they are lubricated with oil in the oil cups as he did.
+Ed Price BEARINGS ARE MEANT TO RUN IN OIL : NOTE GITS OIL CUPS ON TOP OF THE BEARING RACE AREA.
***** Please scream another answer; what is lubricating the bearing at the left end of the second shaft; I see no oil cup there.
+Ed Price Sorry about the capital letters, did not notice as I typed. The little flap type covers are leading to holes which allow oil too reach these bearings. There is a "Gits " oil cap on top of each bearing housing (spindle ) both front and rear... Oil viscosity used = as per Manufacturer recomendation. The second shaft, I assume you refer to, being the back gear shaft ( ? ) does not spin, but simply rotates in its mounts needing no lube.
+Darryl Dodge Caps forgiven. Yes, I was referring to the second shaft, which you are identifying as the "backshaft." (The author mentions a "back gear" on the front shaft at 13:59, so there's a back gear that isn't on the back shaft?) Not being a lathe expert, I hesitated to use that term, lest the supporters of "countershaft" become infuriated. These were terms defined by long-dead machinists, so I won't argue their accuracy or merits. Are you saying that the backshaft does not rotate in the cast housing, only the gears rotate on the back shaft? Obviously I was wrong about grease in the bearings, but I was more curious about why, regardless of how it is lubricated, when he had that spindle shaft completely out, he did not check the far left shaft bearing at all, and all he did in checking the right spindle bearing was give it a cursory spin at 5:44. I would have thought that this would have been a good time to solvent wash that bearing and examine it closely for tiny chips or irregularities that could later cause spindle vibration. After all, isn't this the bearing that takes most all of the cutting loads and is most exposed to accidental shock loading and abuse? Also, when he said he had never found any specs on torqueing that spindle bearing pre-load collar, couldn't he have put a gauge against the spindle shaft to find what minimum torque was needed to minimize (is it) shaft axial runout?
The preload on the bearing is 1/16 turn after you get no play in the spindle.
Description on the Atlas service bullitens page:
scottandersonpipes.com/atlas_press/servicebulletins.htm
Nice job, my 12" the spindle needed a puller to get out.
That ringing in the pulley is it touching the bull gear. As it was probably never oiled using the mystery set screw, the bearings are probably worn a bit. It has a side load from the bull gear pin that causes the bearings to wear oblong allowing it to wobble.
The bushings are 1.5" ID and 1.75"OD and if I remember right 0.866 long. The length is not critical and I think 1" will fit fine.
Hi Scott, I just got one of these an have it apart, it seems like you know about these lathes, the two oil cup reservoirs don't have a hole that comes through the bearing race, do you know where the oil goes?
There should be a notch in the bearing shield. It is on the edge of the hole; hard to see. It drips into the bearing.
More info here and contact info:
shdesigns.org/Craftsman-12x36/
Thanks a bunch Scott! I did notice the notches but one one if was at about 4:00. Does it go back at 12:00 or 6:00? Thank you sir.
The notches on the back edge of the shield go at 12:00
My problem is that the woodruff key in the bull gear is not exposed enough to extract before it starts to hit the inner bearing shield...help! atlas-craftsman 12
If you can get a pair of needle nosed pliers on the exposed end you pull up and out of the key way. A woodruff key will rotate out of the key way without being fully exposed.
Regarding the grub screw on the spindle pulley... It is both an oil hole and a set screw, let me explain. When your lathe was originally purchased, it was bought on the 'Unit Plan' and did NOT originally come with back gears. Machines that were sold on the "Unit Plan" without back gears are easily identified by the 60 indexing holes on the spindle pulley; machines that were purchased in full WITH back gears do not have the 60 indexing holes on the pulley, instead they are located on the Bull gear and are not needed on the pulley.
This information comes from the 1937 Manual of Lathe Operation from Atlas. The logic is simple, if you have the indexing holes on the Bull gear when you buy the machine and can't ever use the indexing holes on the pulley - then why pay the extra expense of having a machinist with a dividing head drill holes that are useless?
So what does all this mean.... When your machine was brand new, it was a set screw and your headstock's indexing pin was 2-3/4" in length. At some point the back gear assembly was purchased and it became an oil hole at that point (and the indexing pin was turned down).
To clarify, all these pulleys have that grub screw, just not the indexing holes. All Bull gears have the indexing holes.
I'm having a problem right after I remove the outer gear on the far left of the shaft. there is a woodruff key and it will NOT come off the shaft. any pointers on how to remove it?
Mine was stuck also but it finally came out, did you ever get yours out?
+Shane K Haha yeah my father in law came over and used wire cutter to get a good grip on one side and then pried it up.
Just need good leverage and a good grip. Or you can heat it up and then use a price of ice to shrink the metal and it should pop out after that.
+joseph walker (that was my grandfathers name), thanks when I got my key out I hit the sides with a file a couple times, I've still got it apart, I've painted it John deer green and am going to buy a new barring for it tomorrow, I hope I can get it back together right. Thanks again sir
I would recognize that clanky noise the bull gear makes with my eyes closed.😂
You've a Very quiet machine now.
let machin kaisy chalaye
That pulley screw is for oiling only
It is the same as changing a belt but you omitted to mention that you have to remove the back gearing to do that. Your belt stayed in place [!! ] and it would have been more informative to have included that information. The removing of the gears and pulleys is almost self-explanatory by comparison. The removal of the back gear is not. Ed Price is also right futher down in the comentary. Ken Bartlett is also right.
That screw is only for oiling hole. Pull it out to add oil.........
Not offence intended but I rather use the kind of belt that have links! I really don't see my self going through all that work just for a velt!
Poor design for a lathe. The belt should be to where you can get to it from outside of the gear box. I would change it. And yes you can always change anything to work for you if you had the know how. And you should never use your hand as a hammer! I knew a guy who had to have all of the meat removed from his hand when he got older from him being a mechanic and using his hand to pound on hubcaps. He could never use his right hand anymore after that. Oh and never wear a ring while doing anything! I had a aunt lose her finger and was working on a friends furnace and told her husband about this since he told me he ran a forklift and about a month later she told me he jumped down off the forklift and yep he lost his too! Your finger can never hold up your body weight and when your finger is ripped out they can't fix it EVER!
Davie Jones boy your really fearless....stay away from.hard work..been a machinist 40 plus years...usually the guys who get hurt most or cause others to get hurt are guys like you...checked your web page so i see you know nothing about machines or designs thoughout the decades
He never changed the belt. WTF