Not a bad job, honestly the fan was the hardest part. Sorry about the shakey video during the fan, I want planning on filming this until I figured it out lol
I was quoted $2142.37 to replace my 2013 GC 5.7l oil pan gasket. Thanks for the video, I wish I was close to where you are and pay you to help me do it.
This is definitely the best way to do it, pull the lower rad hose, then lower the rad fan being careful not to damage your radiator, unbutton the two long bolts and lower the front diff slightly, this gives you room to access the bolts and wiggle out the rear brace. Unbutton the mounts and I recommend jacking it by the bellhousing, not the crank pulley. Make sure you get a gasket kit that includes the sump o-ring. Youll probably want to renew the drivers motor mount while you are doing this job, which is not too difficult with the right swivels and extensions.
Only thing I would add is is to make sure the oil pick up tube o-ring does not fall off when cleaning the pan. I made this mistake and had to do the job twice. 😡
by far the best procedure, I pulled the sway bar down also. mitchell estimater calls for 8.5hrs lol. easy peasy job! although driver side motor mount blew out ( liquid filled ) when I dropped the motor down,at least the bottom was apart so that was half the battle.
Thanks for the video! Got it done today. Without removing the lower rad hose I was unable to remove the fan. I was able to pull it up about 6” and get the pan out.
Great video, I was not able to take out the fan, but I could raise it a few inches, enough to take out the pan. Mine is a Summit export version, and maybe a litlle different. I just raised the suspension to the max height and did not need the jack stands. Save a lot of money. I waited more than 2 years because did not want my car to be have dissasembled!!
Yeah, for some reason the fans on every car I've ever worked on seem to be the hardest things to get out. I was doing the water pump at the same time, so I was able to pop off that passenger size hose. It would have come off without it but still just a pain. Glad you're able to get it fixed on your own!
I went into it expecting the worst, since everybody mentions dropping the subframe etc, but I was determined to see if there was an easier way, sure enough it was really easy.
@ExoticCarDIY Yea I'm just tired of the random leaks with this truck. I just put in a new A/C Condenser/Trans Cooler because it was leaking transmission fluid. For that they tell you to take the whole front bumper off which is also not needed. Just not sure who is writing these services procedures.
I just replaced my oil pan gasket in my 2011 5.7L JGC following your video. THANKS!! I did it on the ground so it took me a bit longer. I'm guessing around 4 hours as I took it slow. Accessing and loosening all those oil pan bolts while lying on my back was a bit tough but I worked it out. I ended up removing the fan shroud from the top by disconnecting the water pump hose and the AC line bracket. The only really hard part was disconnecting the transmission oil line bracket from the oil pan. I simply could not pull it out while on my back. Since it's plastic I cut it and was able to remove the pan. I'll get a replacement part from Mopar and in the meantime secure the transmission lines with a zip tie. While I was in there I replaced the engine mounts as well whether they needed it or not (they needed it). I jacked up the motor differently. I used a floor jack and a length of 2x4 at 22in long and pressed up on the mounting boss for the AC compressor nestled just next to the oil pan for the driver side. And I removed the oil filter and pressed upwards on the spot above where the oil filter sits for the passenger side. It worked just fine.
Yeah, a couple wobble extensions and my 18 volt power tools saved a ton of time and sore knuckles on those pan bolts. By far the hardest part was just getting that stupid fan out. But there's so much more room to work once it's out. Good time to do the water pump and engine mounts while you're in there
I am going to have to an oil pan on my 2011 Durango, I am hoping its close to this. as this looks way way easier than having to drop the front subframe. thanks for the Video
Hey, good video definitely appreciate it. I was reading through the other comments and I was kinda confused a bit. Can you do this with ramps or should I use jacks for the front of the vehicle?
Works with ramps, Jack's or lift. However, with ramps just note that as you jack the motor, the while car will rise a bit simply because your taking off about 200lbs from the springs.
Not likely. To replace a rod you have to be able to pull the piston pin out of the piston that means the piston has to come all the way out. There's no way to get the piston out from the bottom. Now if it's just a bearing, you can replace rod bearings as long as the crankshaft's not damaged would just the pan removed
Good afternoon my friend, you sure showed all the shiester repair shops👍😉 Quick question, I’ll put the jeep up on jack stands on the frame as high as possible, now when you lift the motor, the floor jack with a piece of 2x6 goes under the front of the jeep and onto the crank pulley? Thanks W
Yes. Gently lift the motor with the crank pulley with a floor jack. Shouldn't take much effort since your only lifting 200# of so... My jack wasn't even hydraulic, and it to no effort
Is there supposed to be 20 bolts and 21 holes? Online it shows 20 bolts. Just need clarification on this. If so which spot doesn’t get a bolt. Thank you.
I just did this job. Oil immediately started pouring out of the area near the rear main seal after bolting it all back together. Any idea why this could've happened?
I wanted to ask you because you had a 355. I have a 1999 and my Ferrari dealer said the 1999 did not have the problem with the manifold cracking. Is that true?
Don't quote me in the specifics, but it is true that there are different versions of the header. Basically they revised it several times. The early ones cracked the most however even 99s failed. My 99 have failed headers at like 15,000 miles. They were replaced with the newest version, and have been perfect ever since. I've actually found very few examples of people that have had them replaced with OEM headers and fail again. I've now moved on to a 4:30, and guess what they are just as prone to cracking and melting as the 355 LOL. So it's still an ongoing issue with Ferrari
Hey quick question. I'm in the middle of this and have taken out the motor mount bolts and loosened the trans mount bolts. But jacking up the motor still moves the whole car. what could I be missing? Motor mounts seized to the frame or something? I'm in California, no rust on the car or anything
The next most recent comment on this the guy said the same thing. Turned out they just the weight coming off the tires since he was doing it with Wheels on the ground. You absolutely don't want to lift the entire car with your engine crank or you will hurt something. Maybe as a test, Jack from a strong part of the block just to make sure the mounts aren't seized or something
@@ExoticCarDIY hey I just saw that other comment after posting mine. Yeah I kept jacking it and then the motor started to move independently from the car. Really appreciate the reply and the whole video. Was quoted $1200-1800 for this.
It was seeping near the rear, and on the passenger side at the gasket. Enough to leave a couple drips on the floor every night. I only replaced the gasket, the pan was fine. When you do it, be sure to double check the oil pickup o-ring
Pretty smart way of doing I will say this, this job too me under 2 hours from start to finish and that’s dropping the subframe witch only too me 30 minutes. I will say it’s never smart to put the weight off the engine on the crank shaft. But other than that if this job truly took you 2 hours that’s no difference in just dropping the subframe. 🤙🏽
Read through the other comments. Other people have explained the situation. Try this, verify that there's no rust or bolts holding the engine in place. Find a solid place to jack, not the crank not the pan. A piece of the block. And Jack a little harder to verify the engine is loose. Once verified that you have movement, then Jack from the crank. Remember my car was on a lift for this procedure, so the body did not move at all when jackie, if your car is on the ramps or in some way the suspension is holding it, even the slightest bit of jacking will cause the car to raise just because you're reducing the weight on the suspension
@@ExoticCarDIY I appreciate the help, it was the same as the others, had it lifted on ramps resting on the wheels. Switched to jack stands and the engine lifted like butter. You are the man!
Mine also looked like it could have been a rear main. It wasn't until I removed the support that exposed the two converter/flex plate and saw it was dry that I was sure it was just the pan. Hopefully you're is also just the pan.
So helpful thank you! Does anyone find that the pan is warped or have most simply replaced the gasket? Also for anyone looking, here are all the P/Ns for this job: Fel Pro Oil pan gasket: S30841R Oil pickup O ring (blue in vid) Mopar: 53020861 Dipstick tube o ring (orange in vid): 53021144AA Oil Pan Mopar (TBD if required but optional and expensive): 53022343AL
As I'm watching this again as I'm doing the job. I notice that you edited out the part where you had to wrestle the tab around the lower hose. If only real life was that easy!
By far the hardest part of this was wrestling that stupid fan out LOL. Luckily I was doing my water pump at the same time so I just popped the hose off.
@@ExoticCarDIY don't most jacks only go up 1.5 - 2 feet? I have some ramps I am going to use and most would not be high enough to get to the harmonic balancer. Or am I over thinking this?
@@ExoticCarDIY right on. That would be the quickest and cheapest way. I’d have to get it on my ramp and then measure the height of one including the 1-2” of lift. Thanks. I’ll let you know how it gors
Sorry for asking random questions, I have a 2014 e63 , hard to find correct exhaust, when I look up the 6.3 2010-2011 e63 vs 5.5 e63 they are similar, are they the same?
Hey there I'm at the jack the engine up stage and it seems to be lifting the vehicle as well. Any ideas what's going on? Motor mounts are disconnected Trans mounts loosened..
Are the mounts like rusted to the frame or something? Is there any gap between the bottom of the motor mounts and the subframe? Definitely don't lift the whole car with just the crank,. Something is still attached or contacting
Dude thanks for the quick reply. So I figured out that I wasn't lifting the car. I'm doing it on the floor not a lift so the vehicle was raising as the weight changed the springs were decompressing a bit.
@@trailsafari ahhh, good point. Yeah just take it slow, make sure nothing's getting squished against the firewall, the cats were the first thing to touch on mine, and I stopped them. That was plenty enough to get the oil pan. About an inch and a half height at the mounts (width of a 2x4)
@ericuglum6676 yeah it works. I just did it on a 4wd 2012 wk2 Laredo 5.7 6spd. His instructions were spot on. I struggled being on ramps. A lift would've been nice. Also I did wind up draining the coolant and disconnecting lower Rad hose to get fan out.
I do believe it's very similar to the durango, same chassis and engine. I think several people in the comments have reported success with during this but I can't be sure
TRUST ME PEOPLE ***THIS IS NOT*** AS EASY AS HE MAKES IT OUT TO BE. Unless you have your own car LIFT in your house you can NOT take the fan out from underneath even on jack stands -- you have to wrestle it out the top taking more stuff off making a masive leak under your can regardless of catch pans. ALSO, there ***IS NO ROOM*** to wrench out the motor mounts while its on jack stands maybe if you have a car lift and you have PRE LOOSENED the nuts before the video it the motor mounts will unscrew then but in reality NO **F**ing way. I have spend HOURS now and I have NOT even gotten to being able to lift he motor like he PARTIALLY shows here.
I just did this over the weekend. You saved me $1500. THANK YOU!!
Great job! I'm enjoying a clean parking spot:)
Dude I’m literally supposed to pay that to lmao naa
Finally a good UA-cam video that goes over changing oil pan gasket for V8 Jeep Cherokee. Thanks Man!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
I bought my pan gasket and had it sitting for months until I saw this video ,thanks great video
Not a bad job, honestly the fan was the hardest part. Sorry about the shakey video during the fan, I want planning on filming this until I figured it out lol
That was a very informative and well narrated video
Great job!
Huge timesaver
Amazing that the dealer wants to take the subframe out for no reason
Agreed, bunch of needless work, most dealers probably mess something else up while they're in there
It’s not the dealer, it’s the manufacturer lmao the dealer techs find shortcuts like this too
I was quoted $2142.37 to replace my 2013 GC 5.7l oil pan gasket. Thanks for the video, I wish I was close to where you are and pay you to help me do it.
That's insane. I hope you can find some better rates, sorry
I was just quoted 2500 which is why I’ve gone to UA-cam university😂 this is gonna be very helpful come the weekend
This is definitely the best way to do it, pull the lower rad hose, then lower the rad fan being careful not to damage your radiator, unbutton the two long bolts and lower the front diff slightly, this gives you room to access the bolts and wiggle out the rear brace. Unbutton the mounts and I recommend jacking it by the bellhousing, not the crank pulley. Make sure you get a gasket kit that includes the sump o-ring. Youll probably want to renew the drivers motor mount while you are doing this job, which is not too difficult with the right swivels and extensions.
I’m always recommending my customers install new for preventative maintenance purposes and for ride comfort 💯 👨🏾🔧
Only thing I would add is is to make sure the oil pick up tube o-ring does not fall off when cleaning the pan. I made this mistake and had to do the job twice. 😡
Very good point, I thought I said that in a video, but I'll definitely add it to the description!
I forgot to add that the oil pick up o-ring is not included with the oil pan gasket.
by far the best procedure, I pulled the sway bar down also. mitchell estimater calls for 8.5hrs lol. easy peasy job! although driver side motor mount blew out ( liquid filled ) when I dropped the motor down,at least the bottom was apart so that was half the battle.
Ya, I was going to mention, might as well do the mounts while you're in there. Thanks for watching
Works exactly the same for same year Durango. Awesome video and everything worked exactly as you described!
Awesome, I'll let Durango to the description. Glad it went well
Thanks for the video! Got it done today. Without removing the lower rad hose I was unable to remove the fan. I was able to pull it up about 6” and get the pan out.
Thankyou for this video!! I had gasket sitting here for month figuring 2 day job for me but with your method 6 or 7 total hrs ...
Still a pain, but so much easier. The trickiest part was getting that stupid fan out lol
Great video, I was not able to take out the fan, but I could raise it a few inches, enough to take out the pan. Mine is a Summit export version, and maybe a litlle different. I just raised the suspension to the max height and did not need the jack stands. Save a lot of money. I waited more than 2 years because did not want my car to be have dissasembled!!
Yeah, for some reason the fans on every car I've ever worked on seem to be the hardest things to get out. I was doing the water pump at the same time, so I was able to pop off that passenger size hose. It would have come off without it but still just a pain. Glad you're able to get it fixed on your own!
I will be doing this to my jeep thanks for fully explaining all the steps.
Glad to help
This is great. I've been so tired of this leak will tackle this soon. Hadnt even got a qoute on it because I heard it's ridiculous
I went into it expecting the worst, since everybody mentions dropping the subframe etc, but I was determined to see if there was an easier way, sure enough it was really easy.
@ExoticCarDIY Yea I'm just tired of the random leaks with this truck. I just put in a new A/C Condenser/Trans Cooler because it was leaking transmission fluid. For that they tell you to take the whole front bumper off which is also not needed. Just not sure who is writing these services procedures.
Thanks at lots brother that’s really helpful , I will do my as soon as possible
That’s will save me a lot of money $$ thank you!!
Any time
Good information my brother you save me a ton of time God bless and thanks keep up the good work
Glad to help
Oh, man. UA-cam saves the day again! I'm curious about what you're using for the jack.
Like mentioned, you can do this on jack stands ramps or lift. I'm using a lift, and so the Jack I was using was just a ranger brand exhaust Jack
Great video. was able to complete in just a few hours while using jack stands.
Awesome, glad this video helped!
I just replaced my oil pan gasket in my 2011 5.7L JGC following your video. THANKS!! I did it on the ground so it took me a bit longer. I'm guessing around 4 hours as I took it slow. Accessing and loosening all those oil pan bolts while lying on my back was a bit tough but I worked it out. I ended up removing the fan shroud from the top by disconnecting the water pump hose and the AC line bracket. The only really hard part was disconnecting the transmission oil line bracket from the oil pan. I simply could not pull it out while on my back. Since it's plastic I cut it and was able to remove the pan. I'll get a replacement part from Mopar and in the meantime secure the transmission lines with a zip tie. While I was in there I replaced the engine mounts as well whether they needed it or not (they needed it). I jacked up the motor differently. I used a floor jack and a length of 2x4 at 22in long and pressed up on the mounting boss for the AC compressor nestled just next to the oil pan for the driver side. And I removed the oil filter and pressed upwards on the spot above where the oil filter sits for the passenger side. It worked just fine.
Yeah, a couple wobble extensions and my 18 volt power tools saved a ton of time and sore knuckles on those pan bolts. By far the hardest part was just getting that stupid fan out. But there's so much more room to work once it's out. Good time to do the water pump and engine mounts while you're in there
I am going to have to an oil pan on my 2011 Durango, I am hoping its close to this. as this looks way way easier than having to drop the front subframe. thanks for the Video
I would imagine it's the same.,. Fingers crossed. Let me know how it goes
Good job, your video is very helpful
Glad it helped!
Hey, good video definitely appreciate it. I was reading through the other comments and I was kinda confused a bit. Can you do this with ramps or should I use jacks for the front of the vehicle?
Works with ramps, Jack's or lift. However, with ramps just note that as you jack the motor, the while car will rise a bit simply because your taking off about 200lbs from the springs.
@@ExoticCarDIYok thanks. Really appreciate it 🙂.
Thanks for sharing your video is amazing I have to this on my car
No problem! Good luck with that fan shroud LOL that was the hardest part
Best explanation video thank u.
Thanks a lot for this perfect instruction to do this job very easy 🙂👏
You are welcome!
May I ask, is it possible to change a damaged connecting rod on an SRT from down there without lowering the engine?
Not likely. To replace a rod you have to be able to pull the piston pin out of the piston that means the piston has to come all the way out. There's no way to get the piston out from the bottom.
Now if it's just a bearing, you can replace rod bearings as long as the crankshaft's not damaged would just the pan removed
If that's really what I need, I think I'll replace a bearing. Thanks
Hello, excellent video!! congratulations!! How many tons is the jack you lift with from the crank?
Even the smallest jack will work. You're really only lifting like 200 pounds of so
@@ExoticCarDIY Thank you very much for answering!!! Keep making such good videos, it helps a lot!!
Good afternoon my friend, you sure showed all the shiester repair shops👍😉 Quick question, I’ll put the jeep up on jack stands on the frame as high as possible, now when you lift the motor, the floor jack with a piece of 2x6 goes under the front of the jeep and onto the crank pulley? Thanks W
Yes. Gently lift the motor with the crank pulley with a floor jack. Shouldn't take much effort since your only lifting 200# of so... My jack wasn't even hydraulic, and it to no effort
@@ExoticCarDIY Terrific, thank you again, will do and you brought me piece of mind. I’ll get started😉👍W
My 2017 WK2 at mechanic now. Don’t know details yet except oil pan leaking
where is the cardboard piece you put against the radiator at 5:28?
Wow, I may tackle this damn vehicle getting oil all over my driveway the last 2 years after all. Mine is a Dodge 5.7 AWD, but looks nearly identical.
I believe several people have reported in the comments success with Durango's.
At time stamp 7:46 uuuhhhmmm …. The cardboard in front of the radiator is missing?
Very informative video!❤
Thanks man!
Nice shop man
Did you have to drain the coolant and disconnect the hose?
No, but it's a lot easier. Mine was already disconnected to do the water pump.
But yes, it's possible without disconnecting
Is there supposed to be 20 bolts and 21 holes? Online it shows 20 bolts. Just need clarification on this. If so which spot doesn’t get a bolt. Thank you.
very good video oil pan easy remove .thanks sssssssss🎉
Welcome 😊
Great video! Is this a 4x4 you are working on? Thanks!
Yes it is!
Do I need to loosen both motor mount
Yes, loose them both of them that way you can gently lift the engine the two inches or so you need
This was demonstrated really well but there's no way in hell I can do this lol
Is there any trick to making sure the oil pickup connects back correctly?
Just verify the oring is both correct, good condition and most importantly, INSTALLED. I triple check it was there.
Hi is this the same set up with the hemi 6.4litre
I just did this job. Oil immediately started pouring out of the area near the rear main seal after bolting it all back together. Any idea why this could've happened?
Is it possible that rate as you were putting the pan in place you bumped the gasket off the rear portion?
@@ExoticCarDIY those were my initial thoughts. turned out to be a faulty pan. lesson learned, don't buy cheap aftermarket.
I wanted to ask you because you had a 355. I have a 1999 and my Ferrari dealer said the 1999 did not have the problem with the manifold cracking. Is that true?
Don't quote me in the specifics, but it is true that there are different versions of the header. Basically they revised it several times. The early ones cracked the most however even 99s failed. My 99 have failed headers at like 15,000 miles. They were replaced with the newest version, and have been perfect ever since. I've actually found very few examples of people that have had them replaced with OEM headers and fail again.
I've now moved on to a 4:30, and guess what they are just as prone to cracking and melting as the 355 LOL. So it's still an ongoing issue with Ferrari
Hey quick question. I'm in the middle of this and have taken out the motor mount bolts and loosened the trans mount bolts. But jacking up the motor still moves the whole car. what could I be missing? Motor mounts seized to the frame or something? I'm in California, no rust on the car or anything
The next most recent comment on this the guy said the same thing. Turned out they just the weight coming off the tires since he was doing it with Wheels on the ground.
You absolutely don't want to lift the entire car with your engine crank or you will hurt something.
Maybe as a test, Jack from a strong part of the block just to make sure the mounts aren't seized or something
@@ExoticCarDIY hey I just saw that other comment after posting mine. Yeah I kept jacking it and then the motor started to move independently from the car. Really appreciate the reply and the whole video. Was quoted $1200-1800 for this.
@@derek7063 yup, glad it helped!
Just thanked me with a thumbs up on the video
Where was the pan leaking oil from and did you just replace the gasket or the pan also?
It was seeping near the rear, and on the passenger side at the gasket.
Enough to leave a couple drips on the floor every night.
I only replaced the gasket, the pan was fine. When you do it, be sure to double check the oil pickup o-ring
Pretty smart way of doing I will say this, this job too me under 2 hours from start to finish and that’s dropping the subframe witch only too me 30 minutes. I will say it’s never smart to put the weight off the engine on the crank shaft. But other than that if this job truly took you 2 hours that’s no difference in just dropping the subframe. 🤙🏽
Thank you, sir.
You bet!
Thanks great job
Glad it helped! How's was getting the fan out?
My engine isn't lifting after removing all four mount bolts. When jacking, whole car want to raise.
Read through the other comments. Other people have explained the situation.
Try this, verify that there's no rust or bolts holding the engine in place.
Find a solid place to jack, not the crank not the pan. A piece of the block. And Jack a little harder to verify the engine is loose.
Once verified that you have movement, then Jack from the crank.
Remember my car was on a lift for this procedure, so the body did not move at all when jackie, if your car is on the ramps or in some way the suspension is holding it, even the slightest bit of jacking will cause the car to raise just because you're reducing the weight on the suspension
@@ExoticCarDIY I appreciate the help, it was the same as the others, had it lifted on ramps resting on the wheels. Switched to jack stands and the engine lifted like butter. You are the man!
I have same year jeep, leaking pretty good from around the rear main area, is it likely just the pan gasket?
Mine also looked like it could have been a rear main. It wasn't until I removed the support that exposed the two converter/flex plate and saw it was dry that I was sure it was just the pan.
Hopefully you're is also just the pan.
Will this work on The SRT8 grand cherokee with 6.4L Hemi?
That I don't know. I believe it's the same block as the 5.7 just bored and stroked to 6.4, which would be the same procedure, but I'm not positive
Have you tried it yet mate
On the hemi 6.4
So helpful thank you! Does anyone find that the pan is warped or have most simply replaced the gasket? Also for anyone looking, here are all the P/Ns for this job:
Fel Pro Oil pan gasket: S30841R
Oil pickup O ring (blue in vid) Mopar: 53020861
Dipstick tube o ring (orange in vid): 53021144AA
Oil Pan Mopar (TBD if required but optional and expensive): 53022343AL
As I'm watching this again as I'm doing the job. I notice that you edited out the part where you had to wrestle the tab around the lower hose. If only real life was that easy!
By far the hardest part of this was wrestling that stupid fan out LOL. Luckily I was doing my water pump at the same time so I just popped the hose off.
@@ExoticCarDIY Cheater! haha (jk)
Have a video on motor mounts?
No, but technically, this video shows 90% of the process
@@ExoticCarDIY motor mount have a screw on top?
What type of floor jack is this you have to support the motor?
I used a manual exhaust Jack since mine was in a lift. Any jack should work... It's only like 250lbs of lift needed. Hardest part was the stupid fan
@@ExoticCarDIY don't most jacks only go up 1.5 - 2 feet? I have some ramps I am going to use and most would not be high enough to get to the harmonic balancer. Or am I over thinking this?
@@Eweezy685 i supposed for liability reasons I can't tell you what to do, but if I was in this situation I would just use a sturdy piece of 4 x 4 wood
@@ExoticCarDIY right on. That would be the quickest and cheapest way. I’d have to get it on my ramp and then measure the height of one including the 1-2” of lift. Thanks. I’ll let you know how it gors
Sorry for asking random questions, I have a 2014 e63 , hard to find correct exhaust, when I look up the 6.3 2010-2011 e63 vs 5.5 e63 they are similar, are they the same?
They are definitely different, although I can't say for sure if one will bolt up to the other or not..
Hey there I'm at the jack the engine up stage and it seems to be lifting the vehicle as well. Any ideas what's going on? Motor mounts are disconnected Trans mounts loosened..
Are the mounts like rusted to the frame or something? Is there any gap between the bottom of the motor mounts and the subframe?
Definitely don't lift the whole car with just the crank,. Something is still attached or contacting
Dude thanks for the quick reply. So I figured out that I wasn't lifting the car. I'm doing it on the floor not a lift so the vehicle was raising as the weight changed the springs were decompressing a bit.
@@trailsafari ahhh, good point. Yeah just take it slow, make sure nothing's getting squished against the firewall, the cats were the first thing to touch on mine, and I stopped them. That was plenty enough to get the oil pan. About an inch and a half height at the mounts (width of a 2x4)
Does this method work with a 4wd Cherokee? Or is the diff In the way?
@ericuglum6676 yeah it works. I just did it on a 4wd 2012 wk2 Laredo 5.7 6spd. His instructions were spot on. I struggled being on ramps. A lift would've been nice. Also I did wind up draining the coolant and disconnecting lower Rad hose to get fan out.
10:02 what torque to tighten the screws
Specs in the description
will it be the same for a 2015 durango 5.7 2 wheel drive
Because they are basically the exact same platform, I would assume they are the same. Being a two-wheel drive it should be easier as well
Is this the same process for Durango?
I do believe it's very similar to the durango, same chassis and engine. I think several people in the comments have reported success with during this but I can't be sure
Are you in CA? . Need that done on my jeep
Florida
Will this method work on a Durango 5.7?
Yes, but you'll need an exhaust from a Durango SRT or hellcat... The exhaust on a Durango is a bit longer than the Jeep
Hey man did you ask my permission to use a clip of my video in this video?
TRUST ME PEOPLE ***THIS IS NOT*** AS EASY AS HE MAKES IT OUT TO BE. Unless you have your own car LIFT in your house you can NOT take the fan out from underneath even on jack stands -- you have to wrestle it out the top taking more stuff off making a masive leak under your can regardless of catch pans.
ALSO, there ***IS NO ROOM*** to wrench out the motor mounts while its on jack stands maybe if you have a car lift and you have PRE LOOSENED the nuts before the video it the motor mounts will unscrew then but in reality NO **F**ing way. I have spend HOURS now and I have NOT even gotten to being able to lift he motor like he PARTIALLY shows here.
That’s great if you don’t have a front diff lol
Check again bro, that is a 4x4
Gonna give it a go shortly. Think this is the ticket though. All the other videos suck.
Good luck! The fan the worst part lol, just tricky
Thank you so much
Glad it helped!
Ill just lift the engine with a crane.
Excellent ❤
Thanks 😊