Thank you for the video! I bought a ‘13 overland with 140k mikes a couple weeks ago and my biggest concern was over the Quadra Lift reliability and replacement cost. Well a week later my Jeep was squatting in the front and I got super nervous. I saw your video, and after checking the valve for a leak, I realized it was the same issue. I replaced both front valves and it fixed the issue. So thanks again for putting this video out there!!
Thank you so much for sharing this. I just bought a super clean 2013 Overland with only 65,000 miles on it. Was worried about this system failing after reading many comments on UA-cam. I'm going to check for leaks right now. 👍🏾
Some people bash the quadrilift, I live mine! Imo most of the bad rap comes from when people neglect to fix the little things, such as these little valves on top of the shocks. Overtime unaddressed little issues cause big issues like the pump failing etc. Check the valve, rear bags and lines periodically well a little bit of soap and water for bubbles and replace whatever leaks. If you do have to buy anything, avoid the dealer, companies like arnott and RMT make better quality products with much better with warranties for a fraction of the cost.
Another satisfied customer. Unless I come out tomorrow and find the front end of my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit sagging on the ground again, you’ve saved me some money!
so update my 177k overland is still up so simple of a fix for us mechanically inclined individuals. great job sir i always sift thru the best of the best you win in this repair. now after cylinder head replacement,water pump,suspension i need to replace my computer for cruise and traction lol another $700 i cant do that job.
Hello my name is Richard you have really saved me. I have dealing with my wife 2014 JGC. I actually had to replace the compressor and 40 amp fuse twice. I just so happened to come across your video. I really appreciate it peace and blessings!! Keep it going!!
Richard how were able to refill the system with nitrogen? Thinking ima have to do the same for jeep the compressor is making a ticking noise guessing it’s shot. Please help me with any tips to try and make this job go well
A big thank you. You helped me solve my problem. The only change .. i didnt feel confident in disconnecting the height sensors etc..so i bought alfaobd and obdlink to properly deflate the struts to the reservoir and viceversa. It was about 150$ extra but well worth considering I will be able to run a lot of other bidirectional tests on my 2014 gc overland in the future. Thanks!
I have both alfaobd and jscan, I agree this would be the proper way IMO as well, but most people don't have those. I love all the cool stuff you can do with alfaobd
Hey mate, What was the procedure after you deflated the strut to reservoir and then replaced the elbow, do you have to do a calibration or anything? or does the car just automatically pump it back up next time you start?
Great Video and thank you for the help. I did my 2012 JGC Overland with 5.7. I purchased the vehicle in 2013 with 15k and had all of the failed suspension errors/problems while under extended warranty. The JGC now has 187K . Recently, the front air struts started leaking so i followed your procedure. RMT shipped next day and was a great vendor to work with. FYI. I did go my local Jeep dealership just to see if they had the part trying to save nitrogen instead of waiting for the parts to ship not knowing how quick it would be with the current logistical challenges. The dealership parts department (and manager) advised they now only sell a complete air hose replacement kit, not the individual elbow. Yes, if you have a leak they will only sell kits to replace hoses to all 4 wheels. Not sure if this is dealer wide or just a local dealership strategy.
That's good to know. I've owned quite a few cars with air suspension, They are relatively a simple system, but you just have to understand that o-rings go bad over time, with our Jeeps now being over 10 years old, I wouldn't be surprised if more o-rings started to seep air. I'm okay as long as I can find it And fix it like this!
@@scottjet5308 I bought here from their eBay store www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-11-20-Quadra-Lift-Suspension-Front-Rear-Air-Strut-Repair-Kit-/222465427557?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@kenbyrne5978 it all depends. Mines on the original 11yr old bags, I've heard many newer Jeeps have to get new bags. I've found on my other cars with air suspension with leaks, it happens up inside the crease of the bag where contacts the metal. It seems dirt and rocks can get jammed in there and wear a hole in it . If mine go, I will replace mine with arrnott brand shocks.
Hey shout out from Denver! I followed your video step by step and very minimal nitrogen was released upon valve replacement. This video was really helpful, Thanks again!
i watched another video and saw yours yours had more detail on the nitro and was straight to the point parts came today put them in but did not do the twist tie trick will check in the morning to see if its back down but it went up quick had to start jeep twice and lower it to the exit setting then back up to normal setting worked like a charm. thx $58 is better than the 5k to 20k estimate dealer gave me i think i see where they get their money from. also just replaced my door man for $30 not $800 great job sir
Thanks man, I try to make them as simple and straight to the point as I can. It's insane though what dealers will charge. Those connectors are probably the first thing to go in the system, mine now has 80k and is 12 years old, if it develops another leak, I'll find it, soap and water. The key is trying to address it before your pump wears out because of all the extra work
Thank you for sharing this video. I've owned my 2012 Overland, just like yours, for about six years now. The leaking issue you demonstrated has been my biggest concern with my Jeep. It's been leaking for some time now, and it's gotten significantly worse over the past two months. In fact, the exact part you showed in the video is the one that's been causing the leak. By the way, would you consider making a video on how to recharge the Nitrogen?
I did look into making a video on how to refill the nitrogen. Obviously the easiest way is just to go buy a large tank of nitrogen from a welding / gas supply company. But that would cost more than the dealership would charge. The fill port on the tank is a simple r134 connector. And you can buy small cheap nitrogen tanks from beer brewing suppliers. Using an app like j scan, you can monitor the pressure. That was my plan, but I never did it. Even though Jeep says it's a closed nitrogen system there's actually an intake above the front passenger tire for outside air. It even has a filter. I do think these things self-fill
Great video! i had one of those since 2010 and LOVED it, was tboned back in 2020 at 50mph in my passenger side, i caught it mid near-roll, slid left on my left tires at about a 60 degree angle almost laying on my drivers mirror, for about 5 feet directly left, and landed back on 4 wheels. all it needed was right doors, front right quarter panel, front right suspension, A and B pillars pulled out about .5-1 inch. was in like new condition with a full mopar warranty at 10 years old and 180kmi. insurance stole it from me. anyway, i have the 2018 summit, same thing just the 2018 version. i'm putting a front strut tower brace on and wanted to know how to disconnect the air hose to the strut without losing nitrogen!! So thank you!! Also, i added autopilot to my grand Cherokee using a comma 3. you have to have a 2016+ with electric steering. also, enjoy that rear popping glass, they killed it in 2014+. that royally pisses me off.
This is a great vid and tip for reducing nitrogen loss. I need to replace my front grand Cherokee air shocks and thought it would have to be a dealer job. This looks like it will do the job. Thanks ! 👍👍
I'm trying to figure out an easy way to fill the system at home. Looks like the computer side can be done with alfaOBD. For the tank, it can hook up to an r134 hose, and N2 cartridges can be purchased on an Amazon. I just need to find a cheap way to connect the common N2 cartridges to the hose.
Great video. I have the same exact vehicle year and color. I paid the dealer over 2k to fix this issue and they have yet to get it done. Car constantly sits low
To my knowledge, the dealer can only use OEM parts, which means they probably have to replace the entire shock just for that tiny valve. I've owned quite a few cars from GM, Jeep, Mercedes etc with air suspensions. People like to rag on them, but they do have their perks. Once you understand some of the components, it makes diagnosing them easier. I'm actually very happy my Jeep is an air suspension car
I have a 2012 grand Cherokee overland. I replaced the front valve the same as you but I'm hearing the right rear air leak when I park. I just changed both rear shocks and inspected the bladders which both were fine. The held air pressure well no I vious leaks. I understand the car automatically lowers in park mode. I just want to verify the hissing as "normal" behavior.
Likely the sound you are hearing is just the pressure relief from the tank after the pump shuts off. If you were actually able to hear a leak from the shop, the car will be on the ground within a few minutes. I think what you're describing is normal, but then again it's hard to diagnose remotely like this
My was on all 4 tires like lowrider changed two valves under hood on front struts reset system now after about a couple hours now squatting on back tires
I make videos as I need them .. so far haven't had issues with the rear. Both arnott and RMT make rear bags, but before is replace those, I'd make sure it's not leaking from a line or valve.
Y'ALL, I'VE OWNED ONE OF THESE GRAND CHEROKEES FOR 12 YEARS NOW. I've dealt with every problem, all under warranty. If you have a high end version of these jeeps, GET A MOPAR maxcare EXTENDED WARRANTY. I had over $50k in warrantied repairs to keep my jeep like new to 180kmi. THESE 90 DEGREE VALVES ARE 1 TIME USE!!!! I've had numerous dealerships tell me this, but half of them DON'T KONW IT. If they're ever disconnected, you HAVE to replace them to unsure reliability. They WILL fail in time if reused. If you have a higher mileage one of these jeeps and are leaking, don't bother testing, just replace all 4.
Just so ya know. I replaced mine about 3 years ago after having this problem and a couple months ago I noticed it is leaking again if it moves. Only seems to leak if touched and I haven't noticed the compressor constantly turning on to refill it. Leaving it that way til it starts doing that again. Pretty sure all the nitrogen leaked out the first time it happened and now is full of air. Haven't had any problems...... yet.
I've had air suspension failures on mercedes, jeep, Chevy etc, I found the aftermarket ones (specifically arnott and rmt) are better and usually have a lifetime warranty
My son has a 2011 Overland and the nitrogen has depleted so the car looks like a low ridder and rides extremely rough. The fuse was blown in the pump and not sure if we have a leak. Do you have any suggestions on a cheap way to replace the nitrogen? He cannot afford to pay the dealership price.
Likely the car had a leak, causing the pump to overwork which in turn may have damaged the pump which blew the fuse. The reason that use nitrogen is because they can guarantee that there is no moisture in the system which would over time cause suspension components and the pump to fail.. The tank is actually just behind the seat and the filler adapter is a standard HVAC r134. If you were trying to do it on the cheap, I would splice an air hose on that from a compressor and fill it with air. But like I said you're going to have to find the leaks to find out what was overworking the pump
Great! I daily this one, so far it's been really good. Except for mine has engine cut out which people normally attribute to the fuel pump relay which has been recalled several times.... But I don't think that's it and I'm currently working on a fix. Have you had any issues with that at all? Basically the car just shuts off at certain times?
Nice video--your car look super sanitary. I only have one floor jack. Can I jack up one side and replace the fitting one side at a time. (2012 GC Overland) Thank you!
Yes you should. IMO now, you likely can accomplish this just by putting the car in park mode, disconnect the battery, and then Jack up each side individual to replace the fittings
Thanks for your reply. A well done video but would like to see better how you got the air line off the L fitting. Local Jeep dealer wants $250 to evacuate and nitrogen fill the system. I am approaching a "young" 80 but still think I can do this repair.
@@skydriver101 have you ever used a "shark bite" or similar plumbing fitting? Basically there is a round plastic ring around the hose.. pressing that ring into the fitting while pulling in the hose will release it
Thanks--Yes, I have used a shark bite. I'll give that a try when the parts come tomorrow. Next project is cleaning the throttle body to try and get rid of the mysterious engine stalling issues you read so much about in this model. A well done throttle body video would be way cool.
@@skydriver101@skydriver101 the stalling issue is extremely frustrating. Not sure how much yours is like mine, mine only happens during a long moderate break while turning left. The hard part is, it happens so infrequently that diagnosing it takes a lot of time Since stalls may happen weeks or months apart. There is a lot of debate on what actually is causing it I've heard transmission fluid levels, Cruise control, the throttle body, Jeep blamed the fuse, but I personally don't think that's the issue. I think that was just to satisfy the nhtsa.
Thanks for the video and for instilling confidence in the DIYers! I have a 2014 Overland and my 40 amp fuse (F5 location) blew for the air compressor so I started researching on this topic (C1562-98 system over temperature). I feel the compressor might be on its way out, and I am trying to wrap my head around how to change the compressor without loosing nitrogen. So, 1. do you know where the various check valves are located for the entire system? 2. can the compressor be isolated from the closed circuit to easily replace it? Every thing I am reading is talking about draining all the nitrogen and then refilling it. And I hear only dealerships do it, local shops don't keep these elaborate set ups.. Would love some insights.. thx!!
I've not looked into the specific check valves. As far as feeling, I've been trying to figure out how to do this on my own, I just haven't had time yet. The tank connector is a standard AC r134 connector. You will obviously just need to find some kind of canister of nitrogen and splice it into the connector to fill it. You should be able to use one of the apps like jscan or alpha OBD to fill it to the correct pressure. The main thing I haven't figured out, is where to get the nitrogen, you can buy smaller tanks for home brewing (beer and coffee) or you can get very large tanks from airgas companies (welding)
If you have to change out the compressor, the system will need to be refilled with nitrogen. There's no way around it. And quite honestly, you would want to evacuate the entire system and refill it with high purity nitrogen anyway. The reason is simple----although these are closed systems, they do have the ability to pull in atmospheric air if the nitrogen charge gets low due to a leak. And if the system does pull in atmospheric air, moisture also get in as well. Once moisture gets in there, there's a good chance that the compressor can freeze up in cold weather, rendering the system inoperable. That's why you should always evacuate the system and refill itvwith nitogen (which is moisture free) whenever the system is opened or if youve had leaks. Don't let this scare you. Its not difficult or expensive to evacuate or refill your air suspension by yourself. You just need a tool like AlfaOBD, a refill tool (Dorman sells one for a few hundred bucks), and of course a nitrogen cylinder. The manual will say that you should use high purity (99.998%) nitrogen and that's correct, but standard nitrogen is still 99.95% pure, so I really wouldn't worry too much. The important thing is to get moisture out and make sure the system has no leaks. Do that and your air suspension should work just fine for many, many years, even in subzero temperatures.
@@maarzz Sure, no problem. Also keep in mind that the compressor has a temperature sensor located on top of it. Your fault could be a problem with that sensor. I've seen it happen before. It's a simple fix if it turns out that your compressor really isn't overheating.
Would you recommend doing this job if you do not have two jacks to support the vehicle? Can it be done without any jacks and if so, what are some concerns for not using them?
There is some debate about this. Jeep claims this is a sealed system, meaning there's only so much nitrogen it once it's gone you have to get it refilled. However, most people believe that it can add outside air if needed on its own. In fact there is an intake with a tiny filter on the system. It should easily be possible to do with one jack, if you do one side at a time. But I don't think I would recommend doing it without any jacks. As soon as you release the air, it's going to go straight to being bottomed out. You should be able to use the factory spare tire jack to accomplish this although it's slow
Great video! I had a hiss noise whenever I’d touch the hose and thought nothing of it. Now I’m going to try to fix it with your video advise. How do I know if enough air leaked and need to take it in for a nitrogen refill? Should I do it even if no warnings appear on the dash? And what exactly would I be asking the dealer to do. I don’t know what a reasonable cost is for this either. I’d appreciate your feedback :) Thanks!
I'm not sure, but I would imagine if it functions fine. It has enough nitrogen. I have an app called alfa OBD that connects to my car and can give me the PSI in the tank. There's a lot of controversy over if the tank can fill itself or not. All the documents say it is a closed system meaning it does not take an ambient air. However, in the wheel well there is a intake with a filter for the system. So who knows, maybe it can fill itself
@@ExoticCarDIY i had a leak in the front for 5+ years. And thats how I bought it from the dealership. And it always goes back to normal once the engine starts with no warnings. Has to be refilling!
Mine jeep gc summit diesel, everything it gets cold it stops working but if I park it indoor it's fine I guess the cold is freezing something just don't know where. Also, is it supposed to hiss after driving and parking the car? After dew minutes it hiss and suspension drops.
Do you know what the problem could be if the car doesn't even raise in the front when the engine is running? The rear raises as usual. It's a 2010 Grand Cherokee.
Do you think it would be possible to just add a regular valve on top and just top them up with compressed air or nitrogen. Essentially bypassing the pump and Loosing the adjustability though
Spray soapy water in the air lines from the pump to the air bag. Most likely it will leak at a fitting. If no leak it found, chances are it's the rear bags them self. Replace with Rmt or arrnott
@@ExoticCarDIY you said that you disconnect the sensor from the rod and tie it, this is done when the engine is on\off i don’t understand from the video then after the disconnecting the sensor you just turn the car off and its goes down - i gonna do this process this week if you can add some steps it will be great
@@tzachweissler Oh ok. so after i filmed this, I actually think you can accomplish the same thing with just the jack stands. Remember, the goal is to have close to zero pressure inside the shocks so no air escapes. So I used BOTH methods to do this..... "1". forcing the car to pump out more air AND "2" .using jacks to release all the pressure from the shocks. If you still want to try "1". step 1 When the car is OFF disconnect the rod. step 2. use a twist tie or something to have the sensor LOWER than the rods exactly like you see at 03:42, step 3, turn the car on and put it into "park mode">> the car will lower way down. Step 4 turn the car off, disconnect the batter and the support the car with jacks as you swap out the valves. then hook the rods back up, the battery back up and your good to go. That help?
Nice My 2015' overland says off road 2 all 3 lights on stuck front suspension low rear high all stuck. I will look for leak there. Not sure os my exact same just explai5 best i can
I think the lights are basically indicating there is an error. The rear level looks fine, it's likely not your pump, but in fact a front air shock or sensor problem. I would get it resolved quickly, and make sure during your testing you don't let the pump get too hot. I definitely suspect regardless those top valves are going to leak, if you still have a problem after replacing the valves, then look onto the shocks It's also very possible that hey sensor went faulty.
There are similar fittings and lines leading to the rear bags. But unfortunately they take a bit of troubleshooting to find any leaks. If you have a leak, just spend some time with some soapy water spring every fitting in junction you can find
Hey brother i have 2017 grabd cherokee summit and its both rear tyres air suspension is not working since last night what to check for rear wheels ftont wheels are all good
If the front still is working but the rear is not, then yes it's either a leak in the lines that run to the rear air racks, or it could be a sensor failure in one of the rear sensors. If you don't have one already, I recommend downloading j scan, that will let you read suspension code
No, if you have a leak the best way usually to find it is the soapy water method. All the lines start at the the pump which is located in the front right bumper. You can trace them back and use the soapy water to try to find any leaks. The rear shocks are another common failure, many times it's not the airlines, it is actually the rear shock airbags. If you jack up the rear, more of the airbag will be exposed and you can probably find the leak on the rear airbags with soapy water. Arrnott so's the best replacements for the rear shocks and I believe they're about $200 each which is a lot cheaper than the dealership
Oooofff, that's frustrating. I'd start kind of piece by piece. Do you have alfaOBD? You can use it to scan for suspension codes and check the tank pressure etc. It will also allow you to manually turn on the pump and raise different parts for testing. It's unlikely you had all four bags pop at the same time. More likely a leak that eventually killed the pump if I had to guess
I did it myself. There are several good bands, and quite a few bad ones out there. Typically use gtechniq CSL. The paint was decent on the Jeep but still required a good paint correction. I didn't make a video for this since it already have one On my channel when I coated the Mercedes. ua-cam.com/video/of3cwj_oF4g/v-deo.html
I think I understand what you're talking about, I believe there is an o-ring in there as well. As these cars age those o-rings dry out and shrink a tiny bit. That tends to cause most of the leaks.
It's actually debated. Book actually says that it is a closed system, however there is an intake with an air filter on it above the passenger front tire. So I assume that it actually will pull in outside air if needed
Check out the conversation I had with "Fili ainuū" on this video in the comments. Sounds like he had the exact same issue and he was able to figure it out. Might be worth a shot!
I literally have the same problem right now I have the same car just a year newer than yours. How much did the fix cost and how much longer do you think I can ride with my car like this I’m literally riding around I park mode 😭 it’s not a normal height
The valves are only like 60 bucks. The longer you wait, the more air escapes and the greater the chance that you're going to wear the pump out. Waiting could cause the repair to be much more expensive
I usually make videos as the need arises. So far my rear bags have held up, but I'm always worried what would happen if one blew out while towing or something? I may replace them preemptively with a good pair of rmt or arnott
@@ExoticCarDIY I bought some on Amazon, seemed to be recommended on a few forums, but still very little information on what all needs to be checked or where to check.
Hi, just tried your idea with the links and tying the sensor up higher on the link made the front rise 4 inches! I had to let it drop down to get the front end lower (as in effectively making the link longer, not shorter).. But even after doing that, then jacking up there was still significant pressure in the air bags, way too much to release the hoses 😢
I think your best bet is just to put it in parking mode. Then jack up the car (to take the weight off of the shock) and replace the valve. You may lose just a miniscule amount but it'll be so much easier
@@ExoticCarDIY I ended up testing the AlfaOBD on the old ELM327 interface I had and it worked, so paid the $48 Aus for the software and transferred the gas to the tank - worked great. Even then still a little bit of gas was lost - enough so that instead of slowly getting to OR2, it now wont reach OR1..(Gas was pretty low to start I think). At least the leak is fixed though! Local mechanics believe they can use the Nitrogen tanks for filling tyres to refill the tank - dropping over tomorrow and will keep fingers crossed!
@@andaroundwego the tank connectors just a simple r134 eye doctor, the same thing to use for your air conditioning system. In theory for able just to connect to nitrogen tank to r134a adapter you can do it yourself with the alpha OBD
@@ExoticCarDIY Got the local guys to put in more Nitrogen, tank is at about 180PSI with vehicle at normal ride height. However after disconnecting the levelling links to try and get it lower, it now has a calibration error and is super slow going down and wont raise to OR1, the back goes up twice but the front stops after going up once, pump stops running but the light and dash indicator still show it as trying to rise. I finally found the measurement criteria for doing a proper calibration so will look at trying that today - just hard to find flat level ground where I am at the moment!!
I have a 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee V6 now the only area that is sagging is the rear and that’s like every three days that’s when I notice it. which ones do I replace the ones under the hood or are there other elbow kits to repair in the rear area?
It is likely that one of your rear bags has a tiny leak in it. It still could be one of the lines that runs from the pump to the bag, but depending on the age of everything it could be either one of those. Factory shocks are pretty expensive, I highly recommend going with hey shock from either RMT or arrnott. Problem is leaks cause your pump to run exponentially more, generally if ignored they will burn out the pump. Obviously diagnosing it properly will help you determine if it's the airbag or just a line, and I hate to tell people just to throw parts on it but if you got a lot of miles, it might be just worth buying two new rear air shocks and taking it to somebody and have them replace the shocks. If I was local I'd help you, sorry
@@ExoticCarDIY oh Lord, OK well I was hoping it was something easy and visible for me to do and switch out myself like the ones under the hood lol but these are more of a shop to maybe look at. Thank you for the reply.
I tried this. Immediately received a warning on the dash when I tried to lower the car into "Park" exit/entry mode: "SELECTED RIDE HEIGHT NOT PERMITTED." Anyone else see that?
Interesting, generally I've only seen that when a door is open and you hit the lower button. Did the car return to normal height? Do you have alpha OBD or j scan? Might be worthwhile to check the codes and clear them
Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately no, I don't have a modern scanner that would work on this vehicle. I'm afraid to remove the fittings without the car dropped all the way. Still trying...
Eh, I disconnected and jumped together the battery cables for a few minutes. Then started over. This time it worked! I'm still going to find a shop to evacuate and refill the system with nitrogen. Even if it's $200 it will be worth it. Thanks again!
Yeah I'm trying to remember, I used two tiny screwdrivers I think? On either side there is a tiny little tab, and I pride both of them at the same time gently and pulled on the hose and it came right out
If you lose too much nitrogen pressure, you will likely get a service air suspension warning. And obviously it might not function as intended. I am still researching a easy way to do this at home in the spirit of having a dealer-free experience. The tank is easily accessible behind the rear seat, and the connector is a r134 AC adapter. You can obviously buy a large tank from a gas supply store like a welding company, but I was hoping to find a smaller cheaper alternative. Lots of companies produce CO2 cartridges and NO2 cartridges. But our systems need N2. You can find those cartridges from beer brewing companies, however they don't have threads, so it makes it very difficult to attach it to a r134 hose. But I will figure it out!
@@ExoticCarDIY when you do, post that video!!! I have the same exact vehicle. Same color (love the color), same year, same rims. Same issues. I've replaced the passenger side fitting already. Looks like the driver side might be next. Out of curiosity, what tires are you running on this?
@@MH3GL still researching fittings, I will post once I figured it out. My car came with some old Continentals, I scored a free set of pirelli verdes from a friend who just just put on some bridgestones. Once I get around to it, I'll experiment with some mild all-terrains with good road manners since mine is mainly a daily driver. Maybe some falcon wildpeak a/t?
@@ExoticCarDIY any update on a remedy? I’m going to work on my mother in laws next week (leaking fittings above the strut) but it’s been sitting in their garage for a few months, so I’m sure the tank is empty
So I ordered the parts, super easy task just like you have shown (so I thought it would be) lol I pull my driver side hose out and somebody previously has cut the end off of it where that “nipple” is or whatever you wanna call it that keeps the line from slipping out of the clip, so now I have a whole new issue to deal with
I'm actually pretty sure I didn't lose air when actually performing this however, for the small leak before, there are reserves of extra air in the tank. I'm currently on a way to refill at home. The adaptor on the tank is a typical r134 and you can buy N2 cartridges from Amazon. Just need to build an adapter
You mean, it won't go up or down it'll only stay normal? If you have the ability to, you need to scan it for suspension error codes. JScan is cheap and will scan suspension codes. I suspect there is an error in the system or it needs reset before it'll work correctly. JScan can also perform activations and resets.
@@MarceloBernardo j scan is in Google Play or the app store. You will also need an OBD2 device I have this one works fine cheap. Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Adapter Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_aewsSyPpoG3Dw
@@MarceloBernardo you can do all kinds of stuff. Turn off daytime running lights, turn on Euro blinkers, change it so the fog light stay on with high beams, you can do diagnose all kinds of stuff it's pretty cool
There are similar connectors all throughout the system, the ones on top of the shocks seem to go first. So far my rear shocks are holding fine on my 2011. But when they do start to leak, I'll definitely make another video
Tried to trade it in today . 2012 overland. Blue book for 10,5 and they offered me 5k with it sitting on the ground man I love it but I have had so many issues
Try to pause it exactly at 3:48 there is an arm that goes from the control arm down to the sensor. Pop that arm off the sensor, and then use a bread tie with one and wrapped around the little ball, and the other end wrapped around the end of the arm. Essentially you're making the arm about an inch longer by doing this. This will lower the car down another few inches thus emptying all the nitrogen out of the shock
@@ExoticCarDIY Could that be the only place air would come out of? And what is the name of that piece You replaced and where can I get it from oh and one more thing, what did u use to take it off? Is there a special tool or something regular
You can, remember, the point of this method is to limit the amount of nitrogen loss to absolute minimum. Others have replaced these valves without this method and have been successful but you're at the mercy of how much nitrogen is left in your tank. If it's been leaking a long time, you may lose too much and have to get it charged at the dealer. The goal was just to get as much air out of those shocks before I took the valves off so if you can find a way to do , you'll accomplish the same thing. Maybe just do the links portion, put it in parking mode and put the jack on the side that you change first and then swap it over to the other side when you do that side. Let us know how it goes
I'm considering a 2013 Overland with the V8 (136k miles of salt-free NC driving). This info is good to have. Do you find yours to be generally realiable? I'm getting rid of my 07 Tahoe (starting to add up on fixes) and my only experience with Jeeps is my first CJ-5 (1967), a 89 Cherokee Sport, and my 2004 Wrangler (still have it). The 89 and 67 were bulletproof. My 04 has had some issues but I just can't part with it...too fun for summer cruising.
I run my 2011 overland hemi from 50,000 miles to 80,000 mi, and so far it's been very reliable other than the slow leak from the front shock valves in this video and a little oil leak from the oil pan. Maintenance is key with the air suspension since if something is left unaddressed like a slowly, it will burn out the pump and then cause a major failure. If you address the small issues when they come on, it will avoid larger issues later.
Don't do it. I have a 2013 Overland Summit. The list of issues is too long to report here. Right now, I have a head off replacing a inoperable MDS lifter on cylinder #4. Nevermind the fact that it has leaking air shocks....
Do you know of an issue with (Suspension System cooling down) do you know of any fix for this problem. I took it to dealer and they replaced Control Module and valve assembly under passenger fender and I’m still getting this error code.
It could be a few things, but generally, the most common is the pump is simply running to much, which trips the thermal protection warning you are getting. Pay attention to how much it runs, does it seem excessive? Mine's given this warning once after like 5 minutes of constantly moving the suspension between levels (blame my kids lol) Anyway if your getting this during normal use (not excessive) it could mean leak, or low N2, but I'm my experience from other air suspension cars I've owned, it's likely the pump is wearing out, it's not able to pressurize as quickly as its suppose to, which means it's running to much... Thus overheating. I have not looked into replacing the jump pump yet, but with my other cars there were great aftermarket options that were significantly less expensive then OEM.
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks for the feedback, they did replaced the pump as well but still didn’t fix the issue. If I can’t get it fixed I’m gonna have to eat up some cash to get a conversion kit to shocks and springs. Already $6K+ on this issue. They’re nice when they work.
@@FiliAinuu trade it in lol. Kidding but that's gotta be really frustrating, sorry man. I wonder if you can unplug the temperature sensor on the pump or somehow find it and disabled it
The pump doesn't run when the car is off. so if there is a slow leak, its going to lower when the cars sits for a while. once you start it, then it will pump it up to normal height. Sounds like a leak to me, hopefully its just the connection at the top like in my video. get some soapy water and start looking!
@@venomdrinker7277 I missed that you said it was the rear. there is a small chance it could be one of the fronts, but likely you have a leak in a bag or line on one of the rear shocks
$180. And they won't replace just the right angle connector on my 2014 RAM 1500. They will charge you for an entire line set which is $427. Then you have to pay for them to install it and recharge the nitrogen. If the pump got destroyed because of this which it's possible in the case for me, you're talking somewhere between $2,500 and $5,000 for the entire repair. Pretty hefty price tag, for an option that I didn't want that was $1,695 additional on the window sticker. I had ordered my connectors yesterday and they are supposed to be here today. I will be performing a similar procedure but from the wheel well, instead of the engine bay like you.
Hello Kenny. My name is Chris. Is there a way to contact you. I would like to pick your brain on a couple things I have going on on my 2012 JGC overland.
I am going through the same issue, but the rear is sagging after three days. the vehicle be parked. I have a 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee V6 Overland and I am with a lacerated foot. I can’t even walk. I can’t even drive and I am so upset that I cannot go out there and check for leaks myself on my jeep. I wish somebody was close to me. I’m in McAllen Texas anybody out there that can check for me, I’ll pay you…. ha ha
Correct, this fixes the most common leak, the fitting without having to buy the entire stock. If your air springs are bad, you'll need to replace those obviously.
I have this model. I've changed the hoses and took it to the dealer. To fill the tank and calibrated.. The back worked fine but the front. would not go up. Do you have a video of checking the front air struts for leaks?
No, the front air bags are incased inside boots, so no access. Otherwise soapy water would work. Unless they are blown, they should be able to rise. Maybe try assisting it with a jack first kind of like in my video? So both sides are not responding/lifting? Obviously impossible to diagnose from here lol, but I imagine a valve issue at the distribution block by the pump. Possible test, rig up a way to feed a little compressed air in the shocks manually for a test.
Thank you for the video! I bought a ‘13 overland with 140k mikes a couple weeks ago and my biggest concern was over the Quadra Lift reliability and replacement cost. Well a week later my Jeep was squatting in the front and I got super nervous. I saw your video, and after checking the valve for a leak, I realized it was the same issue. I replaced both front valves and it fixed the issue.
So thanks again for putting this video out there!!
That's the comments I love to read. Thanks man
Thank you so much for sharing this. I just bought a super clean 2013 Overland with only 65,000 miles on it. Was worried about this system failing after reading many comments on UA-cam. I'm going to check for leaks right now. 👍🏾
Some people bash the quadrilift, I live mine! Imo most of the bad rap comes from when people neglect to fix the little things, such as these little valves on top of the shocks. Overtime unaddressed little issues cause big issues like the pump failing etc.
Check the valve, rear bags and lines periodically well a little bit of soap and water for bubbles and replace whatever leaks.
If you do have to buy anything, avoid the dealer, companies like arnott and RMT make better quality products with much better with warranties for a fraction of the cost.
Another satisfied customer. Unless I come out tomorrow and find the front end of my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit sagging on the ground again, you’ve saved me some money!
Mine's been problem free now for two plus years. If anything else goes wrong, I'll post it fix
so update my 177k overland is still up so simple of a fix for us mechanically inclined individuals. great job sir i always sift thru the best of the best you win in this repair.
now after cylinder head replacement,water pump,suspension i need to replace my computer for cruise and traction lol another $700 i cant do that job.
I'm about to do the water pump. 177k is good... All cars will need something at that age.
Hello my name is Richard you have really saved me. I have dealing with my wife 2014 JGC. I actually had to replace the compressor and 40 amp fuse twice. I just so happened to come across your video. I really appreciate it peace and blessings!! Keep it going!!
Great, glad this video helped!
Richard how were able to refill the system with nitrogen? Thinking ima have to do the same for jeep the compressor is making a ticking noise guessing it’s shot. Please help me with any tips to try and make this job go well
Sorry I had to take it to the dealership
A big thank you. You helped me solve my problem. The only change .. i didnt feel confident in disconnecting the height sensors etc..so i bought alfaobd and obdlink to properly deflate the struts to the reservoir and viceversa. It was about 150$ extra but well worth considering I will be able to run a lot of other bidirectional tests on my 2014 gc overland in the future. Thanks!
I have both alfaobd and jscan, I agree this would be the proper way IMO as well, but most people don't have those.
I love all the cool stuff you can do with alfaobd
Hey mate, What was the procedure after you deflated the strut to reservoir and then replaced the elbow, do you have to do a calibration or anything? or does the car just automatically pump it back up next time you start?
Great Video and thank you for the help. I did my 2012 JGC Overland with 5.7. I purchased the vehicle in 2013 with 15k and had all of the failed suspension errors/problems while under extended warranty. The JGC now has 187K . Recently, the front air struts started leaking so i followed your procedure. RMT shipped next day and was a great vendor to work with.
FYI. I did go my local Jeep dealership just to see if they had the part trying to save nitrogen instead of waiting for the parts to ship not knowing how quick it would be with the current logistical challenges. The dealership parts department (and manager) advised they now only sell a complete air hose replacement kit, not the individual elbow. Yes, if you have a leak they will only sell kits to replace hoses to all 4 wheels. Not sure if this is dealer wide or just a local dealership strategy.
That's good to know. I've owned quite a few cars with air suspension, They are relatively a simple system, but you just have to understand that o-rings go bad over time, with our Jeeps now being over 10 years old, I wouldn't be surprised if more o-rings started to seep air. I'm okay as long as I can find it And fix it like this!
@@scottjet5308 I bought here from their eBay store www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-11-20-Quadra-Lift-Suspension-Front-Rear-Air-Strut-Repair-Kit-/222465427557?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@ExoticCarDIY Do you know what the expected life span of the air bag itself is? Is there a recommended replacement interval in the service schedule?
@@kenbyrne5978 it all depends. Mines on the original 11yr old bags, I've heard many newer Jeeps have to get new bags.
I've found on my other cars with air suspension with leaks, it happens up inside the crease of the bag where contacts the metal. It seems dirt and rocks can get jammed in there and wear a hole in it .
If mine go, I will replace mine with arrnott brand shocks.
Hey shout out from Denver! I followed your video step by step and very minimal nitrogen was released upon valve replacement. This video was really helpful, Thanks again!
Sweet! Lots of good jeep stuff to do out there in Co!
i watched another video and saw yours yours had more detail on the nitro and was straight to the point parts came today put them in but did not do the twist tie trick will check in the morning to see if its back down but it went up quick had to start jeep twice and lower it to the exit setting then back up to normal setting worked like a charm. thx $58 is better than the 5k to 20k estimate dealer gave me i think i see where they get their money from. also just replaced my door man for $30 not $800 great job sir
Thanks man, I try to make them as simple and straight to the point as I can. It's insane though what dealers will charge.
Those connectors are probably the first thing to go in the system, mine now has 80k and is 12 years old, if it develops another leak, I'll find it, soap and water. The key is trying to address it before your pump wears out because of all the extra work
Thank you for sharing this video. I've owned my 2012 Overland, just like yours, for about six years now. The leaking issue you demonstrated has been my biggest concern with my Jeep. It's been leaking for some time now, and it's gotten significantly worse over the past two months. In fact, the exact part you showed in the video is the one that's been causing the leak. By the way, would you consider making a video on how to recharge the Nitrogen?
I did look into making a video on how to refill the nitrogen. Obviously the easiest way is just to go buy a large tank of nitrogen from a welding / gas supply company. But that would cost more than the dealership would charge. The fill port on the tank is a simple r134 connector. And you can buy small cheap nitrogen tanks from beer brewing suppliers. Using an app like j scan, you can monitor the pressure. That was my plan, but I never did it.
Even though Jeep says it's a closed nitrogen system there's actually an intake above the front passenger tire for outside air. It even has a filter. I do think these things self-fill
Great video! i had one of those since 2010 and LOVED it, was tboned back in 2020 at 50mph in my passenger side, i caught it mid near-roll, slid left on my left tires at about a 60 degree angle almost laying on my drivers mirror, for about 5 feet directly left, and landed back on 4 wheels. all it needed was right doors, front right quarter panel, front right suspension, A and B pillars pulled out about .5-1 inch. was in like new condition with a full mopar warranty at 10 years old and 180kmi. insurance stole it from me.
anyway, i have the 2018 summit, same thing just the 2018 version. i'm putting a front strut tower brace on and wanted to know how to disconnect the air hose to the strut without losing nitrogen!! So thank you!!
Also, i added autopilot to my grand Cherokee using a comma 3. you have to have a 2016+ with electric steering. also, enjoy that rear popping glass, they killed it in 2014+. that royally pisses me off.
This is a great vid and tip for reducing nitrogen loss. I need to replace my front grand Cherokee air shocks and thought it would have to be a dealer job. This looks like it will do the job. Thanks ! 👍👍
I'm trying to figure out an easy way to fill the system at home. Looks like the computer side can be done with alfaOBD. For the tank, it can hook up to an r134 hose, and N2 cartridges can be purchased on an Amazon. I just need to find a cheap way to connect the common N2 cartridges to the hose.
@@ExoticCarDIY you end up finding anything on the off chance?
My passenger air shock connection was leaking as you mentioned in your video. I will be doing what you did and THANK YOU SO MUCH :)
You're welcome! Glad the video helped
AlfaOBD and maybe JScan has a function to remove the air from each individual air spring for service.
Good idea, I have both of those, I will check next time I'm I get a chance
Thank you for helping me save $1100
Ya man, glad it helped you out!
Great video. I have the same exact vehicle year and color. I paid the dealer over 2k to fix this issue and they have yet to get it done. Car constantly sits low
To my knowledge, the dealer can only use OEM parts, which means they probably have to replace the entire shock just for that tiny valve.
I've owned quite a few cars from GM, Jeep, Mercedes etc with air suspensions. People like to rag on them, but they do have their perks. Once you understand some of the components, it makes diagnosing them easier. I'm actually very happy my Jeep is an air suspension car
Perfect timing this just happened to mine! Thank you
I have a 2012 grand Cherokee overland. I replaced the front valve the same as you but I'm hearing the right rear air leak when I park. I just changed both rear shocks and inspected the bladders which both were fine. The held air pressure well no I vious leaks. I understand the car automatically lowers in park mode. I just want to verify the hissing as "normal" behavior.
Likely the sound you are hearing is just the pressure relief from the tank after the pump shuts off. If you were actually able to hear a leak from the shop, the car will be on the ground within a few minutes. I think what you're describing is normal, but then again it's hard to diagnose remotely like this
My was on all 4 tires like lowrider changed two valves under hood on front struts reset system now after about a couple hours now squatting on back tires
I make videos as I need them .. so far haven't had issues with the rear. Both arnott and RMT make rear bags, but before is replace those, I'd make sure it's not leaking from a line or valve.
Y'ALL, I'VE OWNED ONE OF THESE GRAND CHEROKEES FOR 12 YEARS NOW. I've dealt with every problem, all under warranty. If you have a high end version of these jeeps, GET A MOPAR maxcare EXTENDED WARRANTY. I had over $50k in warrantied repairs to keep my jeep like new to 180kmi. THESE 90 DEGREE VALVES ARE 1 TIME USE!!!! I've had numerous dealerships tell me this, but half of them DON'T KONW IT. If they're ever disconnected, you HAVE to replace them to unsure reliability. They WILL fail in time if reused. If you have a higher mileage one of these jeeps and are leaking, don't bother testing, just replace all 4.
Fgh
Ty for this❤
Answer: Two RMT JWK2 A210 ADFU Shock Top Valves
Thank you from KSA.
Sweet! the channel is international now! Youre welcome
Just so ya know. I replaced mine about 3 years ago after having this problem and a couple months ago I noticed it is leaking again if it moves. Only seems to leak if touched and I haven't noticed the compressor constantly turning on to refill it. Leaving it that way til it starts doing that again. Pretty sure all the nitrogen leaked out the first time it happened and now is full of air. Haven't had any problems...... yet.
Fingers crossed... Maybe I'll start checking these every oil change with soapy water for bubbles
I had the two rear bags leak...dealer want $$$$$$$ for each bag...so I went after market for $100 each...zero issues
I've had air suspension failures on mercedes, jeep, Chevy etc, I found the aftermarket ones (specifically arnott and rmt) are better and usually have a lifetime warranty
My son has a 2011 Overland and the nitrogen has depleted so the car looks like a low ridder and rides extremely rough. The fuse was blown in the pump and not sure if we have a leak. Do you have any suggestions on a cheap way to replace the nitrogen? He cannot afford to pay the dealership price.
Likely the car had a leak, causing the pump to overwork which in turn may have damaged the pump which blew the fuse.
The reason that use nitrogen is because they can guarantee that there is no moisture in the system which would over time cause suspension components and the pump to fail..
The tank is actually just behind the seat and the filler adapter is a standard HVAC r134. If you were trying to do it on the cheap, I would splice an air hose on that from a compressor and fill it with air. But like I said you're going to have to find the leaks to find out what was overworking the pump
Great video that saved me a lot of money!
Awesome, so glad the video could help
Great video very helpful,I have the same vehicle
Great! I daily this one, so far it's been really good. Except for mine has engine cut out which people normally attribute to the fuel pump relay which has been recalled several times.... But I don't think that's it and I'm currently working on a fix. Have you had any issues with that at all? Basically the car just shuts off at certain times?
Nice video--your car look super sanitary. I only have one floor jack. Can I jack up one side and replace the fitting one side at a time. (2012 GC Overland) Thank you!
Yes you should.
IMO now, you likely can accomplish this just by putting the car in park mode, disconnect the battery, and then Jack up each side individual to replace the fittings
Thanks for your reply. A well done video but would like to see better how you got the air line off the L fitting. Local Jeep dealer wants $250 to evacuate and nitrogen fill the system. I am approaching a "young" 80 but still think I can do this repair.
@@skydriver101 have you ever used a "shark bite" or similar plumbing fitting? Basically there is a round plastic ring around the hose.. pressing that ring into the fitting while pulling in the hose will release it
Thanks--Yes, I have used a shark bite. I'll give that a try when the parts come tomorrow. Next project is cleaning the throttle body to try and get rid of the mysterious engine stalling issues you read so much about in this model. A well done throttle body video would be way cool.
@@skydriver101@skydriver101 the stalling issue is extremely frustrating. Not sure how much yours is like mine, mine only happens during a long moderate break while turning left. The hard part is, it happens so infrequently that diagnosing it takes a lot of time Since stalls may happen weeks or months apart.
There is a lot of debate on what actually is causing it I've heard transmission fluid levels, Cruise control, the throttle body, Jeep blamed the fuse, but I personally don't think that's the issue. I think that was just to satisfy the nhtsa.
Thank you so much I’m have the same problem thank you
Glad I could help
Thank you so much!
Can you plz send clear photo to how you did the string to suspension sensor
Thanks for the video and for instilling confidence in the DIYers! I have a 2014 Overland and my 40 amp fuse (F5 location) blew for the air compressor so I started researching on this topic (C1562-98 system over temperature). I feel the compressor might be on its way out, and I am trying to wrap my head around how to change the compressor without loosing nitrogen. So, 1. do you know where the various check valves are located for the entire system? 2. can the compressor be isolated from the closed circuit to easily replace it? Every thing I am reading is talking about draining all the nitrogen and then refilling it. And I hear only dealerships do it, local shops don't keep these elaborate set ups.. Would love some insights.. thx!!
I've not looked into the specific check valves.
As far as feeling, I've been trying to figure out how to do this on my own, I just haven't had time yet.
The tank connector is a standard AC r134 connector.
You will obviously just need to find some kind of canister of nitrogen and splice it into the connector to fill it.
You should be able to use one of the apps like jscan or alpha OBD to fill it to the correct pressure.
The main thing I haven't figured out, is where to get the nitrogen, you can buy smaller tanks for home brewing (beer and coffee) or you can get very large tanks from airgas companies (welding)
If you have to change out the compressor, the system will need to be refilled with nitrogen. There's no way around it. And quite honestly, you would want to evacuate the entire system and refill it with high purity nitrogen anyway. The reason is simple----although these are closed systems, they do have the ability to pull in atmospheric air if the nitrogen charge gets low due to a leak. And if the system does pull in atmospheric air, moisture also get in as well. Once moisture gets in there, there's a good chance that the compressor can freeze up in cold weather, rendering the system inoperable. That's why you should always evacuate the system and refill itvwith nitogen (which is moisture free) whenever the system is opened or if youve had leaks.
Don't let this scare you. Its not difficult or expensive to evacuate or refill your air suspension by yourself. You just need a tool like AlfaOBD, a refill tool (Dorman sells one for a few hundred bucks), and of course a nitrogen cylinder. The manual will say that you should use high purity (99.998%) nitrogen and that's correct, but standard nitrogen is still 99.95% pure, so I really wouldn't worry too much. The important thing is to get moisture out and make sure the system has no leaks. Do that and your air suspension should work just fine for many, many years, even in subzero temperatures.
@@Japplesnap Thanks so much for the encouragement and the detailed response. I will definitely keep the suggestions in mind! Thanks all again!!
@@maarzz Sure, no problem. Also keep in mind that the compressor has a temperature sensor located on top of it. Your fault could be a problem with that sensor. I've seen it happen before. It's a simple fix if it turns out that your compressor really isn't overheating.
Would you recommend doing this job if you do not have two jacks to support the vehicle? Can it be done without any jacks and if so, what are some concerns for not using them?
There is some debate about this. Jeep claims this is a sealed system, meaning there's only so much nitrogen it once it's gone you have to get it refilled.
However, most people believe that it can add outside air if needed on its own. In fact there is an intake with a tiny filter on the system.
It should easily be possible to do with one jack, if you do one side at a time. But I don't think I would recommend doing it without any jacks. As soon as you release the air, it's going to go straight to being bottomed out.
You should be able to use the factory spare tire jack to accomplish this although it's slow
@@ExoticCarDIY thx for the reply and help. Nice vid too. I’ll give it a shot !!
What about the rear bags? Do they have the elbows also?
Perfect... BTW I'm your 300th like.👍
I'll take it! I'm glad this video has helped so many
Great video! I had a hiss noise whenever I’d touch the hose and thought nothing of it. Now I’m going to try to fix it with your video advise. How do I know if enough air leaked and need to take it in for a nitrogen refill? Should I do it even if no warnings appear on the dash? And what exactly would I be asking the dealer to do. I don’t know what a reasonable cost is for this either. I’d appreciate your feedback :) Thanks!
I'm not sure, but I would imagine if it functions fine. It has enough nitrogen.
I have an app called alfa OBD that connects to my car and can give me the PSI in the tank.
There's a lot of controversy over if the tank can fill itself or not.
All the documents say it is a closed system meaning it does not take an ambient air. However, in the wheel well there is a intake with a filter for the system. So who knows, maybe it can fill itself
@@ExoticCarDIY i had a leak in the front for 5+ years. And thats how I bought it from the dealership. And it always goes back to normal once the engine starts with no warnings. Has to be refilling!
Hi good vedio .. how about rear suspension rubber cushion..hope u can show us how we can replace it
I film things as I fix them. So far my car is been in good shape, 85,000 miles now. But if they go out, definitely I will
Is it same for the jeep GC Diesel ?
Yes!
Mine jeep gc summit diesel, everything it gets cold it stops working but if I park it indoor it's fine
I guess the cold is freezing something just don't know where. Also, is it supposed to hiss after driving and parking the car? After dew minutes it hiss and suspension drops.
Do you know what the problem could be if the car doesn't even raise in the front when the engine is running? The rear raises as usual.
It's a 2010 Grand Cherokee.
Do you think it would be possible to just add a regular valve on top and just top them up with compressed air or nitrogen. Essentially bypassing the pump and Loosing the adjustability though
No, I do not this this will work.
I love the suspension, but the other option is to convert to factory coils
How would you deal with it if it’s the rear tires?
Spray soapy water in the air lines from the pump to the air bag. Most likely it will leak at a fitting.
If no leak it found, chances are it's the rear bags them self.
Replace with Rmt or arrnott
Hello friend I have jeep overland 2015 u think that work on the my jeep to ?
Yes! Very common problem in all wk2 Jeeps (2011-20)
How to check the shock valve of the rear suspension?
Hello,
Something is not clear for me, when i tie the rod the engine/ acc is on , and after i do it i closed the engine or I missed something?
Sorry, not following the question, say that again?
@@ExoticCarDIY you said that you disconnect the sensor from the rod and tie it, this is done when the engine is on\off i don’t understand from the video then after the disconnecting the sensor you just turn the car off and its goes down - i gonna do this process this week if you can add some steps it will be great
@@tzachweissler Oh ok. so after i filmed this, I actually think you can accomplish the same thing with just the jack stands. Remember, the goal is to have close to zero pressure inside the shocks so no air escapes. So I used BOTH methods to do this.....
"1". forcing the car to pump out more air AND
"2" .using jacks to release all the pressure from the shocks.
If you still want to try "1". step 1 When the car is OFF disconnect the rod. step 2. use a twist tie or something to have the sensor LOWER than the rods exactly like you see at 03:42, step 3, turn the car on and put it into "park mode">> the car will lower way down. Step 4 turn the car off, disconnect the batter and the support the car with jacks as you swap out the valves. then hook the rods back up, the battery back up and your good to go.
That help?
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks for understanding - i don’t want things go wrong and to do some damage 🙏
@@ExoticCarDIY another question if i have just one jack i can do it one by one or need both at the same time?
Nice My 2015' overland says off road 2 all 3 lights on stuck front suspension low rear high all stuck. I will look for leak there. Not sure os my exact same just explai5 best i can
I think the lights are basically indicating there is an error. The rear level looks fine, it's likely not your pump, but in fact a front air shock or sensor problem.
I would get it resolved quickly, and make sure during your testing you don't let the pump get too hot. I definitely suspect regardless those top valves are going to leak, if you still have a problem after replacing the valves, then look onto the shocks
It's also very possible that hey sensor went faulty.
hello, is it the same thing for rear suspensions ? Thanks from France.
There are similar fittings and lines leading to the rear bags. But unfortunately they take a bit of troubleshooting to find any leaks. If you have a leak, just spend some time with some soapy water spring every fitting in junction you can find
Hey brother i have 2017 grabd cherokee summit and its both rear tyres air suspension is not working since last night what to check for rear wheels ftont wheels are all good
If the front still is working but the rear is not, then yes it's either a leak in the lines that run to the rear air racks, or it could be a sensor failure in one of the rear sensors. If you don't have one already, I recommend downloading j scan, that will let you read suspension code
Do the hose connections under the hood also fill the rear shocks? How do you fix a rear leak?
No, if you have a leak the best way usually to find it is the soapy water method.
All the lines start at the the pump which is located in the front right bumper. You can trace them back and use the soapy water to try to find any leaks. The rear shocks are another common failure, many times it's not the airlines, it is actually the rear shock airbags.
If you jack up the rear, more of the airbag will be exposed and you can probably find the leak on the rear airbags with soapy water.
Arrnott so's the best replacements for the rear shocks and I believe they're about $200 each which is a lot cheaper than the dealership
My whole jeep is sitting on the ground, trying to see which step I need to start with
Oooofff, that's frustrating. I'd start kind of piece by piece. Do you have alfaOBD? You can use it to scan for suspension codes and check the tank pressure etc. It will also allow you to manually turn on the pump and raise different parts for testing.
It's unlikely you had all four bags pop at the same time. More likely a leak that eventually killed the pump if I had to guess
I have the exact same Jeep. You mentioned you had it ceramic coated. Was it professionally done at a detail shop or did you do it yourself?
I did it myself. There are several good bands, and quite a few bad ones out there. Typically use gtechniq CSL. The paint was decent on the Jeep but still required a good paint correction.
I didn't make a video for this since it already have one On my channel when I coated the Mercedes.
ua-cam.com/video/of3cwj_oF4g/v-deo.html
Hey I have a leak coming from the same area but the grey ring connected to that bronze valve is leaking any ideas ?
I think I understand what you're talking about, I believe there is an o-ring in there as well. As these cars age those o-rings dry out and shrink a tiny bit. That tends to cause most of the leaks.
If the system has a leak, then there is not more nitrogen right?. Does the system refill with air automatically.?
It's actually debated. Book actually says that it is a closed system, however there is an intake with an air filter on it above the passenger front tire. So I assume that it actually will pull in outside air if needed
@@ExoticCarDIY I think the same when the system has leak it get air for exterior.
Let me investigate about this doubt . Regards
I have the exact same of jeep and it is marking the message: air suspension cooling down please wait, and I don't know how can I do to fix
Check out the conversation I had with "Fili ainuū" on this video in the comments. Sounds like he had the exact same issue and he was able to figure it out. Might be worth a shot!
I literally have the same problem right now I have the same car just a year newer than yours. How much did the fix cost and how much longer do you think I can ride with my car like this I’m literally riding around I park mode 😭 it’s not a normal height
The valves are only like 60 bucks. The longer you wait, the more air escapes and the greater the chance that you're going to wear the pump out. Waiting could cause the repair to be much more expensive
I am 90% sure i blew my rear shock as i could hear it leak out.... wish there was a tutorial on how to check my rear air lines or where they connect
I usually make videos as the need arises. So far my rear bags have held up, but I'm always worried what would happen if one blew out while towing or something? I may replace them preemptively with a good pair of rmt or arnott
@@ExoticCarDIY I bought some on Amazon, seemed to be recommended on a few forums, but still very little information on what all needs to be checked or where to check.
Hi, just tried your idea with the links and tying the sensor up higher on the link made the front rise 4 inches! I had to let it drop down to get the front end lower (as in effectively making the link longer, not shorter).. But even after doing that, then jacking up there was still significant pressure in the air bags, way too much to release the hoses 😢
I think your best bet is just to put it in parking mode. Then jack up the car (to take the weight off of the shock) and replace the valve.
You may lose just a miniscule amount but it'll be so much easier
@@ExoticCarDIY I ended up testing the AlfaOBD on the old ELM327 interface I had and it worked, so paid the $48 Aus for the software and transferred the gas to the tank - worked great. Even then still a little bit of gas was lost - enough so that instead of slowly getting to OR2, it now wont reach OR1..(Gas was pretty low to start I think). At least the leak is fixed though! Local mechanics believe they can use the Nitrogen tanks for filling tyres to refill the tank - dropping over tomorrow and will keep fingers crossed!
@@andaroundwego the tank connectors just a simple r134 eye doctor, the same thing to use for your air conditioning system. In theory for able just to connect to nitrogen tank to r134a adapter you can do it yourself with the alpha OBD
@@ExoticCarDIY Got the local guys to put in more Nitrogen, tank is at about 180PSI with vehicle at normal ride height. However after disconnecting the levelling links to try and get it lower, it now has a calibration error and is super slow going down and wont raise to OR1, the back goes up twice but the front stops after going up once, pump stops running but the light and dash indicator still show it as trying to rise. I finally found the measurement criteria for doing a proper calibration so will look at trying that today - just hard to find flat level ground where I am at the moment!!
hola. Sabes como recargar nitrógeno al sistema por favor
Recuerdo que dijo que lo llevara al concesionario. No creo que sepa cómo recargarlo.
Él respondió: el adaptador en el tanque es un r134 típico y puedes comprar cartuchos N2 en Amazon. Solo necesita construir un adaptador.
@@tf168 muchas gracias
I have a 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee V6 now the only area that is sagging is the rear and that’s like every three days that’s when I notice it. which ones do I replace the ones under the hood or are there other elbow kits to repair in the rear area?
It is likely that one of your rear bags has a tiny leak in it. It still could be one of the lines that runs from the pump to the bag, but depending on the age of everything it could be either one of those.
Factory shocks are pretty expensive, I highly recommend going with hey shock from either RMT or arrnott.
Problem is leaks cause your pump to run exponentially more, generally if ignored they will burn out the pump.
Obviously diagnosing it properly will help you determine if it's the airbag or just a line, and I hate to tell people just to throw parts on it but if you got a lot of miles, it might be just worth buying two new rear air shocks and taking it to somebody and have them replace the shocks. If I was local I'd help you, sorry
@@ExoticCarDIY oh Lord, OK well I was hoping it was something easy and visible for me to do and switch out myself like the ones under the hood lol but these are more of a shop to maybe look at. Thank you for the reply.
I tried this. Immediately received a warning on the dash when I tried to lower the car into "Park" exit/entry mode: "SELECTED RIDE HEIGHT NOT PERMITTED." Anyone else see that?
Interesting, generally I've only seen that when a door is open and you hit the lower button. Did the car return to normal height?
Do you have alpha OBD or j scan? Might be worthwhile to check the codes and clear them
Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately no, I don't have a modern scanner that would work on this vehicle. I'm afraid to remove the fittings without the car dropped all the way. Still trying...
Eh, I disconnected and jumped together the battery cables for a few minutes. Then started over. This time it worked! I'm still going to find a shop to evacuate and refill the system with nitrogen. Even if it's $200 it will be worth it. Thanks again!
Any tips on getting the plastic part un clipped? I tried for like 45min and couldnt seem to get it.
Yeah I'm trying to remember, I used two tiny screwdrivers I think? On either side there is a tiny little tab, and I pride both of them at the same time gently and pulled on the hose and it came right out
@@ExoticCarDIY I could hardly get mine to move. Maybe I’m prying in the wrong direction
Dude, do you know what’s gonna happen if the nitrogen pressure is decreasing?
If you lose too much nitrogen pressure, you will likely get a service air suspension warning. And obviously it might not function as intended.
I am still researching a easy way to do this at home in the spirit of having a dealer-free experience.
The tank is easily accessible behind the rear seat, and the connector is a r134 AC adapter.
You can obviously buy a large tank from a gas supply store like a welding company, but I was hoping to find a smaller cheaper alternative.
Lots of companies produce CO2 cartridges and NO2 cartridges. But our systems need N2. You can find those cartridges from beer brewing companies, however they don't have threads, so it makes it very difficult to attach it to a r134 hose. But I will figure it out!
@@ExoticCarDIY when you do, post that video!!!
I have the same exact vehicle. Same color (love the color), same year, same rims. Same issues. I've replaced the passenger side fitting already. Looks like the driver side might be next.
Out of curiosity, what tires are you running on this?
@@MH3GL still researching fittings, I will post once I figured it out.
My car came with some old Continentals, I scored a free set of pirelli verdes from a friend who just just put on some bridgestones.
Once I get around to it, I'll experiment with some mild all-terrains with good road manners since mine is mainly a daily driver. Maybe some falcon wildpeak a/t?
@@ExoticCarDIY any update on a remedy? I’m going to work on my mother in laws next week (leaking fittings above the strut) but it’s been sitting in their garage for a few months, so I’m sure the tank is empty
@@impactedNEO1177 not yet, hopefully soon
Did you ever figure out how to refill the nitrogen tank DIY?
No, not yet.
Does the whole part have to be replaced? Or can just O-ring be replaced?
If you can find the correct o ring, just the o ring. I don't know the size
So I ordered the parts, super easy task just like you have shown (so I thought it would be) lol I pull my driver side hose out and somebody previously has cut the end off of it where that “nipple” is or whatever you wanna call it that keeps the line from slipping out of the clip, so now I have a whole new issue to deal with
How do you add air for the air that you do loose?
I'm actually pretty sure I didn't lose air when actually performing this however, for the small leak before, there are reserves of extra air in the tank.
I'm currently on a way to refill at home. The adaptor on the tank is a typical r134 and you can buy N2 cartridges from Amazon. Just need to build an adapter
Do they have a reserve tank? I heard there was one under back seats
@@nh9127 no, the one behind the rear seat is the only tank. It's about 6 in in diameter and three feet long
dude, after replacing the rear air bags... the car only works at normal mode, u know what is that?
You mean, it won't go up or down it'll only stay normal? If you have the ability to, you need to scan it for suspension error codes. JScan is cheap and will scan suspension codes.
I suspect there is an error in the system or it needs reset before it'll work correctly. JScan can also perform activations and resets.
@@ExoticCarDIY where can i buy that jscan?
@@MarceloBernardo j scan is in Google Play or the app store.
You will also need an OBD2 device I have this one works fine cheap. Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Adapter Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_aewsSyPpoG3Dw
@@ExoticCarDIY OMG MAN! This app jscan is so complete! betther than those 5k sacns,....unbelivealbe
@@MarceloBernardo you can do all kinds of stuff. Turn off daytime running lights, turn on Euro blinkers, change it so the fog light stay on with high beams, you can do diagnose all kinds of stuff it's pretty cool
What about rear. Same?
There are similar connectors all throughout the system, the ones on top of the shocks seem to go first. So far my rear shocks are holding fine on my 2011. But when they do start to leak, I'll definitely make another video
@@ExoticCarDIY thank you for the videos buddy. It was my right rear leaking. Which leveled my rear. Then 24 hours later the front lowered
Tried to trade it in today . 2012 overland. Blue book for 10,5 and they offered me 5k with it sitting on the ground man I love it but I have had so many issues
@@off-roadnpew2183 ewww, that sucks. Get some soapy water in a spray bottle and just start looking for bubbles on all the lines and rear bags
I just couldnt see some of the things u did, I mean I have an idea but cant see what u did with the bread ties
Try to pause it exactly at 3:48 there is an arm that goes from the control arm down to the sensor.
Pop that arm off the sensor, and then use a bread tie with one and wrapped around the little ball, and the other end wrapped around the end of the arm. Essentially you're making the arm about an inch longer by doing this. This will lower the car down another few inches thus emptying all the nitrogen out of the shock
@@ExoticCarDIY Could that be the only place air would come out of? And what is the name of that piece You replaced and where can I get it from oh and one more thing, what did u use to take it off? Is there a special tool or something regular
@@ExoticCarDIY oh And thanks for the reply back!!
Can I do this without using the jacks? I only have one, a small one..
You can, remember, the point of this method is to limit the amount of nitrogen loss to absolute minimum. Others have replaced these valves without this method and have been successful but you're at the mercy of how much nitrogen is left in your tank. If it's been leaking a long time, you may lose too much and have to get it charged at the dealer.
The goal was just to get as much air out of those shocks before I took the valves off so if you can find a way to do , you'll accomplish the same thing. Maybe just do the links portion, put it in parking mode and put the jack on the side that you change first and then swap it over to the other side when you do that side.
Let us know how it goes
@@ExoticCarDIY Thank you so much for your answer. I'll do it, actually I have the problem in the driver side only.
I'm considering a 2013 Overland with the V8 (136k miles of salt-free NC driving). This info is good to have.
Do you find yours to be generally realiable? I'm getting rid of my 07 Tahoe (starting to add up on fixes) and my only experience with Jeeps is my first CJ-5 (1967), a 89 Cherokee Sport, and my 2004 Wrangler (still have it). The 89 and 67 were bulletproof. My 04 has had some issues but I just can't part with it...too fun for summer cruising.
I run my 2011 overland hemi from 50,000 miles to 80,000 mi, and so far it's been very reliable other than the slow leak from the front shock valves in this video and a little oil leak from the oil pan.
Maintenance is key with the air suspension since if something is left unaddressed like a slowly, it will burn out the pump and then cause a major failure. If you address the small issues when they come on, it will avoid larger issues later.
Don't do it. I have a 2013 Overland Summit. The list of issues is too long to report here. Right now, I have a head off replacing a inoperable MDS lifter on cylinder #4. Nevermind the fact that it has leaking air shocks....
You live in New Jersey
Negative, FL
Do you know of an issue with (Suspension System cooling down) do you know of any fix for this problem. I took it to dealer and they replaced Control Module and valve assembly under passenger fender and I’m still getting this error code.
It could be a few things, but generally, the most common is the pump is simply running to much, which trips the thermal protection warning you are getting.
Pay attention to how much it runs, does it seem excessive?
Mine's given this warning once after like 5 minutes of constantly moving the suspension between levels (blame my kids lol)
Anyway if your getting this during normal use (not excessive) it could mean leak, or low N2, but I'm my experience from other air suspension cars I've owned, it's likely the pump is wearing out, it's not able to pressurize as quickly as its suppose to, which means it's running to much... Thus overheating.
I have not looked into replacing the jump pump yet, but with my other cars there were great aftermarket options that were significantly less expensive then OEM.
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks for the feedback, they did replaced the pump as well but still didn’t fix the issue. If I can’t get it fixed I’m gonna have to eat up some cash to get a conversion kit to shocks and springs. Already $6K+ on this issue. They’re nice when they work.
@@FiliAinuu wow, that's terrible. I'm not sure what to suggest. They can't find a leak or anything?
@@ExoticCarDIY no, they tested all the lines and everything is ok and they don’t know what else besides guessing what’s next 😂
@@FiliAinuu trade it in lol. Kidding but that's gotta be really frustrating, sorry man. I wonder if you can unplug the temperature sensor on the pump or somehow find it and disabled it
My rear driver side shock gets low when the truck has been off for a while but goes to normal position when i turn on the truck how can i fix that?
The pump doesn't run when the car is off. so if there is a slow leak, its going to lower when the cars sits for a while. once you start it, then it will pump it up to normal height. Sounds like a leak to me, hopefully its just the connection at the top like in my video. get some soapy water and start looking!
@@ExoticCarDIY thank you ! I checked and when i moved the hoses i was able to hear a leaking air sound that might be the problem right ?
@@ExoticCarDIY its weird because only one side of the rear gets low
@@venomdrinker7277 I missed that you said it was the rear. there is a small chance it could be one of the fronts, but likely you have a leak in a bag or line on one of the rear shocks
Ever figure out solution? Having exact same issue as you described
I bet the dealership charges 500+ to "diagnose" and repair this moneymaker issue for them.
$180. And they won't replace just the right angle connector on my 2014 RAM 1500. They will charge you for an entire line set which is $427. Then you have to pay for them to install it and recharge the nitrogen. If the pump got destroyed because of this which it's possible in the case for me, you're talking somewhere between $2,500 and $5,000 for the entire repair. Pretty hefty price tag, for an option that I didn't want that was $1,695 additional on the window sticker. I had ordered my connectors yesterday and they are supposed to be here today. I will be performing a similar procedure but from the wheel well, instead of the engine bay like you.
Hello Kenny. My name is Chris. Is there a way to contact you. I would like to pick your brain on a couple things I have going on on my 2012 JGC overland.
My channel name at Gmail
I am going through the same issue, but the rear is sagging after three days. the vehicle be parked. I have a 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee V6 Overland and I am with a lacerated foot. I can’t even walk. I can’t even drive and I am so upset that I cannot go out there and check for leaks myself on my jeep. I wish somebody was close to me. I’m in McAllen Texas anybody out there that can check for me, I’ll pay you…. ha ha
This fixes fittings not actual air springs.......
Correct, this fixes the most common leak, the fitting without having to buy the entire stock. If your air springs are bad, you'll need to replace those obviously.
I have this model. I've changed the hoses and took it to the dealer. To fill the tank and calibrated.. The back worked fine but the front. would not go up. Do you have a video of checking the front air struts for leaks?
No, the front air bags are incased inside boots, so no access. Otherwise soapy water would work. Unless they are blown, they should be able to rise.
Maybe try assisting it with a jack first kind of like in my video?
So both sides are not responding/lifting?
Obviously impossible to diagnose from here lol, but I imagine a valve issue at the distribution block by the pump. Possible test, rig up a way to feed a little compressed air in the shocks manually for a test.
LOL i think theirs only air in myn now who cares
I think you're totally fine