This is an old video, you may never see this comment. May I just take the time to say how appreciative I am of your taking the time to share the wisdom and knowledge you've gained, in such a clear, concise, unhurried way that it truly teaches. The respect you deserve is unparalleled and hopefully you can feel the appreciation of at least some of us out here.
Thank you, I enjoy sharing it and as a result we have been able to build a very good business. I try to live by the adage, “the more you give the more you receive”!
I love how your "sacrificial piece" to chop out the tail waste is a huge beautiful piece of walnut 😂 Another great video Rob & team, appreciate all the little details!
I have friends that told me they cut their dovetails by hand and I said Riiiiiiiiiiiight. The through dovetail video was one of the most amazing things I have ever witnessed. It really can be done
Awesome video, Rob. I use your dovetail saw-blade marking knife. Rather than saw past the baseline, I ground off the top of the knife at such an angle to allow it to reach down to edge of the tail board when transferring for the pins. Works great. Thanks.
When you mentioned Tase Frid, I thought I'd better pay attention. I grew up down the road from him and his family and their 4 horses. What a great family. Very well done video. Thanks
It's a real pleasure to watch an expert and learn from their Experience as to how it's done. Very very informative indeed and you learn a lot from being shown just how to go about executing the very same finished article for yourself. Thanks again Rob Cheers Les.
I'm 58 and am so interested in woodworking as a hobby. I've watched nearly all of your videos. They're so good! You make it look easy but I know it's not. Practice makes perfect after all. I'm gonna go ahead and jump in! Thanks for all of your teaching.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Woodworking is a very relaxing and enjoyable hobby. You ate creating stuff with your own hands. You should consider taking one of our training the hand classes
I've watched you do this several different times and I think this is the best one yet. Still refining my thru dovetails but am working up the nerve for half blinds. ps: super happy with my new cross cut joinery saw. Highly recommend to anyone. Truly a life time saw.
Incredible consistency in the quality of the education, Rob. Superb reinforcement. You should get an award for the teaching as well as the craftsmanship!
Thank you Rob for your excellent teaching style and all the great information. I’m really enjoying all of these dovetail videos. I’m rebuilding the deck hatch for my 1961 Pearson Electra sailboat out of ipe wood and I am planning to use dovetail joints
You are an excellent teacher, and I have learned so much from you. Thanks Rob! Wishing you and yours a Merry Merry and a Happy Happy from Tim in Oklahoma. ☮️ PEACE!✌️
Love seeing the dovetail master at work~! I'm practicing my thru-dovetails, but am excited at the idea of doing half-blinds next. I guess a Kerf X10 is in my future. Thanks, Rob~!
Fantastic video thank you!!!... One side finished, only 3 more to go 😉... Absolutely fantastic WOODWORK!!!... Building furniture with power tools is "accurate carpentry (my own term)" rather than woodwork!... You are doing woodwork!!! I believe where any woodworker TRULY CONNECT with the wood is while paring (with super sharp chisels of course) a joint to fit perfectly!... Something that's not necessary when using power tools!... However, there is no comparison at all! When it comes to woodwork, you are an absolute MASTER!!! Thanks for sharing! 👋👍
Just bought your saw Rob!! cant wait for it to arrive, I was actually considering taking my Veritas (14tpi) dovetail saw and making the front a little more around 22 tip, but after thinking about it, it seemed like a terrible idea!!! so ill use it as a crosscut saw instead. What a fantastic idea of setting the teeth like that
Hi Rob. Very informative video. If you have never done a short video on sharpening one of your half-blind dovetail chisels can you show us please or maybe explain in a reply. Very curious as to how you get the sides of the chisel sharp since all three sides are sharpened. Thank you Rob.
Thanks for sharing Rob, Great information and will be giving this a try. I just received my apprentice sharping system from you guys today and will be sharping a few chisels this weekend.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I have a few of the Narex chisels, they are not really the best but i am trying to save money to buy some wood river or lie Nielsen's.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well as of 5 minutes ago, I went for it and just bought my first set of high end IBC chisels from you. Thanks Rob for your videos.
Rob great tutorial Ain't wheel marking gauges the greatest tool ever invented, always remember using the blunt pin gauges in school woodworking class wander all over the grain and the teacher saying "a bad workman always blames his tools", wish I'd known - I could've said "yeah and in thirty years time I won't have to"
Just practice straight cuts. Don't practice cutting dovetails, just practice dropping the saw down in a straight line. As Rob has pointed out, you don't need to be perfect. I am not talking about years of practice, 10 minutes of pure practice where you are not worried about making a mess of a project, can go a long way. The keys for me are: To have a decent saw, it doesn't have to be all that expensive, but it needs to be a real dovetail saw. When I started, real dovetail saws were not being made. There were Japanese crosscut saws, hack saws, some saws that claimed to be dovetail saws, but were dull and cut a trench, etc... Today there are no supply related reasons not to have an actual saw. Let the saw do the cutting. Keep the sawing relaxed, use as full length strokes as you feel comfortable making. Don't get into the habit of just using the an inch or two of the saw, and pressing down because progress feels slow. Keep it smooth. Observe the gap line next to the blade where it enters the top of the board. Keep that visible reference parallel, as much as you watch the layout line. Concentrate on having a non-binding drop. Practice making cuts one after another in some scrap, do some of these to start with, without a guide line, develop the feel before you start following a line, as trying to keep the saw on the line can end up making you try bending things into place. Smooth and flowing. When you first address the board, place the saw on your layout line, or square to the imagined cut if you are not using a layout line (for practice), and once it feels right, close your eyes and lift the saw off the board, put it back down on the board, and get comfortable, now open your eyes. Often you will see that your saw's position is no longer square to the cut. Adjust your body to the new position. When you are learning you can do this often, until you naturally assume a correct position. This will make your saw stroke more natural and flowing and the saw will want to drop on the line. I have been cutting dovetails for 40 years, but I don't cut them every day. Or even every month. I observe the above points every time. I do a minute or two of practice sawing before I cut an expensive piece, like a batter warming up before going to the plate. I separate practice from projects.
Thanks for this great video again. I have to make these joints soon and it's a great help. I live in Europe so i have to find an alternative for your marking knife and X-10 because they look really helpful in cutting this joint.
Hi Rob, I had a thought. To transfer the tils to the pinboard, could you use a mini x10 through the tails and lightly knock in the kerf for the pins? I might sacrifice my 6 inch steel rule which is 24 thou of an inch and cut maybe an inch and a half off the end. I'll let you know how effective it is. Cheers, ash
See the glue nozzle cap is the type I always found hard to open after the glue dries. No longer a problem. I found a washer with the ID that is bigger then the cylinder but smaller then the flange. Now you have a big disk to pull up on. The only issue is that the washer needs to be centered to fully close the cap. Would have supplied a picture.
I’m drawn to the marking knife: just placed my order. Anything that can start off the cut right make sense to me. Rob has made the process formulaic and recipe-like, leaving just two steps that rely on raw skill: sawing the tails square to the face and sawing the pins square to the end. For the pins he’s thought through getting the cut started (see above). That leaves one key step: starting the tail cut. I wonder if the marking knife could double as a kerf starter for the tails, too. Big open question. I’ll let you know when it comes in the mail. The rest of it is sawing straight once you’ve started. I can already attest that I’m having greater success with Rob’s saw than with my pull saws so far.
Hi Rob, I have been watching many of your videos, current and from years past. I’m 70 years old, still working, but I now get up daily excited about learning and producing. You are a great educator! I have some similar issues with eyesight. I notice you have changed your “vision assist” gear recently from the grey with inset lenses, to a white set with lenses hanging below and in front of your glasses. Can you tell me what the near device is? Do they augment your glasses which you already seems to use for close up work? Thanks again for your superb teaching.
I do not wear my glasses with my headgear, Jake got the new ones for me and they are still in the trial phase, dont know if I like them better than my old ones yet
What a great video. Well structure, simple to follow, entertaining, interlaced with years of experience and knowledge. What else could you ask for. Thanks Rob. Q. Is there a simple way of setting out uniformly varying dovetales. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin joint.
I'm thinking one could make a pair of skew chisels (one left & one right handed) by modifying standard bevel chisels or pre manufactured to the desired angle?
Great video as usual! I bought your video of the same process a while back also, but this presentation is better. Faved and saved on UA-cam! I noticed your new head set magnifiers, I bought the same a few months back and for the most part they do a pretty fair job. I like that they came with several extra snap on lenses too. The l.e.d. lamp is OK, but my one gripe is it doesn't stay tight on my head. Always seems to loosen while I'm working and slips down on my forehead. I guess that's the price for having a pinhead!
Exceptional as usual Professor Cos. I can do thru dovetails pretty fair. Guess I will tell Santa I need a Kerf x10 and a dovetail chisel for Xmas. Don't think he has a new body that doesn't shake, LOL, so maybe the extra gear will help the old guy out, me. Stay safe. Semper Fi.
Rob, can you hit the Kerf X-10 with a metal hammer? I use a 375 g Daruma Genno steel hammer. It seems that would dent the back of the X-10. Do you agree?
Wow! Fantastic work! Thank you very much for the interesting and useful video. I look forward to the next master classes. :) Take care of yourself there.
Amazing work Rob. But you must have a different dictionary to me. Not sure what I watched meets the definition of Easy. Wish I could cut dovetails half as neatly.
Hi Rob. Really enjoy your videos. Question if I may. I'm using Western Maple for drawer sides, 1/2"x5". I"m getting a massive amount of tear out when I chop the waist from the pins. I like to think my tools are sharp, honed and stropped. Drawer side clamped to a piece of scrap, but the cross grain portion of the joint looks like the mountains of the moon. Any thoughts?
Hi Rob.One more time an amazing video.I have one question.About LN #140 skew block plane for a person right hand what is the better choose , skew for right or left?
Hi Rob Would you please tell me how high your work bench is and how tall you are. You appear to be planing wood at a comfortable height whereas I have to bend forward to plane on my bench. Thanks
Is there a simple way of laying out uniformly varying dovetals. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin. Or small, medium, small for a three pin.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Width of pins. I was looking for a way similar to the way you use dividers. I can't see a way of that working. The only way I can see is to decide on a unit of division (IE. 3mm) and use multiples of that unit. So, side space = 2, space between pins = 1, outer pins = 3, centre pin = 4. Hence this three pin design would be 15 units, or in this case using 3mm units it would be a 45mm wide side board. Layout the pin design and then trim to width. The problem with this system is for this simple 3 pin unit then increasing the division unit by 1mm increases the width by 15mm (7/8"). Hence, my search for a way of using the dividers. They reference the existing width of the board as it's base unit.
I had an idea, if someone owns a power chisel that's smooth they could make a chisel from a scraper blade the same thickness as the kerf. I'm assuming it'll work I don't own one to test it.
Thanks for the lesson again, but i want to ask for suggestion. I want to try and build wardrobe with sliding doors but im not sure what joint to use there because by opening the doors there will always be some sort of hard hit on the sides and i dont want it to broke after a while. Any idea is welcomed and thanks again.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking its mostly because space the distance from the bed to the wardrobe would be roughly 60-70 cm. And i want the wardrobe to be 2 meters wide.
Great video Rob and Jake.! I have one question, I've watched your other through dovetail and halfblinds videos, but for some reason I can't figure out why you off set sawblade kerf? Is it to make the joint tighter or reduce gap?
You offset so that you end up sawing exactly on the edge of the pin where it meets the tail. If you did not offset there would be a gap the size of your kerf on each side of every tail
My half blind dovetails always come out better than my through dovetails. I think its because with the half blinds I'm only focused making sure 2 planes of the wood matching perfectly. With the through dovetails I have to worry about 3 planes.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking like not the marking gauge, the dovetail chisel, dividers, you know all those tools. I'm sorry but I don't have those tools but I really wanna know how to do this. Hope you can help, thanks
Don’t you have to measure the thickness of tail board after you cut the rabbit? BTW Rob you have that “natural” affinity for teaching, I often wonder if you talk your way thru cutting dovetails when ur alone lol
You can take the measurement before or after th erabet as long as you account for th ethickness. I recommend taking the measuremt after cutting the rabet.
How do you sharpen the special chisel? Just on the front or also the two angled sides? Is there a different way to trace the pins with the knife instead of doing that extra angled sawing? I disliked that new action a lot, it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake...
You sharpen the half-blind chisel just like any other chisel. the angled part doesn't need to be real sharp as its main job is to allow the front to getinto the corner, I dont think I have ever sharpenedmine. If I did I would just take a fine file to the angled sides. AsI said in th evideo you can just do the normal tracing (e.g. loke through dovetails) just dont go past your line on the pin board as that would show. You just have to eyeball the plumb part of your cut, which can easily be done. I dont understand your comment, " it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake..." please explain
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sorry, didn't mean to be so harsh. I don't have a video. Guess it's kind of old-school...just use a dovetail saw, couple of bench chisels and a fishtail chisel (other than what's required for markup). Granted it took some time to get proficient with these tools to get good results, but that pays off in so many other ways. I'll sometimes I drill along the baseline to break up the cross fibers. I do like how you finish off the saw cuts with your tool and may give that a try.
Through Dovetail Joints: ua-cam.com/video/E8SrH6HbDdQ/v-deo.html
Mortise and Tenon Joint:ua-cam.com/video/O-j__IVfbeY/v-deo.html
Thanks.
This is an old video, you may never see this comment. May I just take the time to say how appreciative I am of your taking the time to share the wisdom and knowledge you've gained, in such a clear, concise, unhurried way that it truly teaches. The respect you deserve is unparalleled and hopefully you can feel the appreciation of at least some of us out here.
Thank you, I enjoy sharing it and as a result we have been able to build a very good business. I try to live by the adage, “the more you give the more you receive”!
I love how your "sacrificial piece" to chop out the tail waste is a huge beautiful piece of walnut 😂 Another great video Rob & team, appreciate all the little details!
yea, probably should not have done that
I have friends that told me they cut their dovetails by hand and I said Riiiiiiiiiiiight. The through dovetail video was one of the most amazing things I have ever witnessed. It really can be done
Awesome video, Rob. I use your dovetail saw-blade marking knife. Rather than saw past the baseline, I ground off the top of the knife at such an angle to allow it to reach down to edge of the tail board when transferring for the pins. Works great. Thanks.
When you mentioned Tase Frid, I thought I'd better pay attention. I grew up down the road from him and his family and their 4 horses. What a great family. Very well done video. Thanks
It's a real pleasure to watch an expert and learn from their
Experience as to how it's done.
Very very informative indeed and you learn a lot from being shown just how to go about executing the very same finished article for yourself.
Thanks again Rob
Cheers Les.
I can not believe there's no test fit! Spectacular work and an amazing technique. Beautiful fitting dovetails like that are truly a work of art!
I'm 58 and am so interested in woodworking as a hobby. I've watched nearly all of your videos. They're so good! You make it look easy but I know it's not. Practice makes perfect after all. I'm gonna go ahead and jump in! Thanks for all of your teaching.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Woodworking is a very relaxing and enjoyable hobby. You ate creating stuff with your own hands. You should consider taking one of our training the hand classes
Outstanding instruction, videography and production. You are carrying forth the legacy of your great teachers exceptionally well.
I've watched you do this several different times and I think this is the best one yet. Still refining my thru dovetails but am working up the nerve for half blinds. ps: super happy with my new cross cut joinery saw. Highly recommend to anyone. Truly a life time saw.
Great to hear. Keep practicing....soon you will have it down snd making perfect dovetails
You are truly a woodworker
Incredible consistency in the quality of the education, Rob. Superb reinforcement. You should get an award for the teaching as well as the craftsmanship!
just get more folks to watch our videos!!!!!!
Thank you Rob for your excellent teaching style and all the great information. I’m really enjoying all of these dovetail videos. I’m rebuilding the deck hatch for my 1961 Pearson Electra sailboat out of ipe wood and I am planning to use dovetail joints
You are an excellent teacher, and I have learned so much from you. Thanks Rob! Wishing you and yours a Merry Merry and a Happy Happy from Tim in Oklahoma. ☮️ PEACE!✌️
Love seeing the dovetail master at work~! I'm practicing my thru-dovetails, but am excited at the idea of doing half-blinds next. I guess a Kerf X10 is in my future.
Thanks, Rob~!
I have one just for you!
Fantastic video thank you!!!... One side finished, only 3 more to go 😉... Absolutely fantastic WOODWORK!!!... Building furniture with power tools is "accurate carpentry (my own term)" rather than woodwork!... You are doing woodwork!!! I believe where any woodworker TRULY CONNECT with the wood is while paring (with super sharp chisels of course) a joint to fit perfectly!... Something that's not necessary when using power tools!... However, there is no comparison at all! When it comes to woodwork, you are an absolute MASTER!!! Thanks for sharing! 👋👍
Great video your a good teacher, going to give this a go tomorrow, keep these videos comming.
Well done as always Rob. Great camera work Jake.
Jake is a camera wizard
Beautiful craftsmanship
Thanks. You can do the same
Wow. Just wow. Thanks, Rob.
Just bought your saw Rob!! cant wait for it to arrive, I was actually considering taking my Veritas (14tpi) dovetail saw and making the front a little more around 22 tip, but after thinking about it, it seemed like a terrible idea!!! so ill use it as a crosscut saw instead. What a fantastic idea of setting the teeth like that
Thank you for this. I’m still intimidated by this technique but I’m gonna tray a project.
Appreciate the solid video editing and camera work. 👍
No problem 👍
Hi Rob. Very informative video. If you have never done a short video on sharpening one of your half-blind dovetail chisels can you show us please or maybe explain in a reply. Very curious as to how you get the sides of the chisel sharp since all three sides are sharpened. Thank you Rob.
Thanks for sharing Rob, Great information and will be giving this a try. I just received my apprentice sharping system from you guys today and will be sharping a few chisels this weekend.
Sounds great. What chisels do you have?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I have a few of the Narex chisels, they are not really the best but i am trying to save money to buy some wood river or lie Nielsen's.
@@mikaelfischer8429 Nothing wrong with the Narex but if you want to upgrade you cannot buy better than the IBC
@@johnnorris1546 Thanks John, I will check out the IBC chisels as well. I may have to buy one at a time but will have a complete set at some point.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well as of 5 minutes ago, I went for it and just bought my first set of high end IBC chisels from you. Thanks Rob for your videos.
Rob great tutorial
Ain't wheel marking gauges the greatest tool ever invented, always remember using the blunt pin gauges in school woodworking class wander all over the grain and the teacher saying "a bad workman always blames his tools", wish I'd known - I could've said "yeah and in thirty years time I won't have to"
I love them
Excellent, thanks for the refresher course.
Brilliant method; very ingenious.
Beautiful dovetails. I can’t even make a straight saw cut so this video is forever ahead of my ability but I love it. Thanks for the video!
look into magnetic saw guides. i just my hands on the katz-moses one and i think it's going to help me a lot.
Just practice straight cuts. Don't practice cutting dovetails, just practice dropping the saw down in a straight line. As Rob has pointed out, you don't need to be perfect. I am not talking about years of practice, 10 minutes of pure practice where you are not worried about making a mess of a project, can go a long way.
The keys for me are:
To have a decent saw, it doesn't have to be all that expensive, but it needs to be a real dovetail saw. When I started, real dovetail saws were not being made. There were Japanese crosscut saws, hack saws, some saws that claimed to be dovetail saws, but were dull and cut a trench, etc... Today there are no supply related reasons not to have an actual saw.
Let the saw do the cutting. Keep the sawing relaxed, use as full length strokes as you feel comfortable making. Don't get into the habit of just using the an inch or two of the saw, and pressing down because progress feels slow. Keep it smooth.
Observe the gap line next to the blade where it enters the top of the board. Keep that visible reference parallel, as much as you watch the layout line. Concentrate on having a non-binding drop.
Practice making cuts one after another in some scrap, do some of these to start with, without a guide line, develop the feel before you start following a line, as trying to keep the saw on the line can end up making you try bending things into place. Smooth and flowing.
When you first address the board, place the saw on your layout line, or square to the imagined cut if you are not using a layout line (for practice), and once it feels right, close your eyes and lift the saw off the board, put it back down on the board, and get comfortable, now open your eyes. Often you will see that your saw's position is no longer square to the cut. Adjust your body to the new position. When you are learning you can do this often, until you naturally assume a correct position. This will make your saw stroke more natural and flowing and the saw will want to drop on the line.
I have been cutting dovetails for 40 years, but I don't cut them every day. Or even every month. I observe the above points every time. I do a minute or two of practice sawing before I cut an expensive piece, like a batter warming up before going to the plate. I separate practice from projects.
You’re a national treasure
Outstanding instruction! Thanks, Rob.
Thanks for this great video again. I have to make these joints soon and it's a great help. I live in Europe so i have to find an alternative for your marking knife and X-10 because they look really helpful in cutting this joint.
Kerf x 10! Man you should have called it The Kerf Wizard! Unbelievable.
Where were you when we were naming it??????
Hi Rob, I had a thought. To transfer the tils to the pinboard, could you use a mini x10 through the tails and lightly knock in the kerf for the pins? I might sacrifice my 6 inch steel rule which is 24 thou of an inch and cut maybe an inch and a half off the end. I'll let you know how effective it is. Cheers, ash
Beautiful job. Great instruction, really enjoyed the education. Thanks.
You are very welcome
See the glue nozzle cap is the type I always found hard to open after the glue dries. No longer a problem. I found a washer with the ID that is bigger then the cylinder but smaller then the flange. Now you have a big disk to pull up on. The only issue is that the washer needs to be centered to fully close the cap. Would have supplied a picture.
good tip
Great video and great camera work
Great video. Why don't you glue the end grain? Isn't that wood stronger than the face grain?
Great job, I've used a thin steel rule in the past to do the same job as your X10.... Your X10 though is a great idea.
Yes, Taig Frid told me about it
Impressive enjoyable to watch. Thank you
I’m drawn to the marking knife: just placed my order. Anything that can start off the cut right make sense to me. Rob has made the process formulaic and recipe-like, leaving just two steps that rely on raw skill: sawing the tails square to the face and sawing the pins square to the end. For the pins he’s thought through getting the cut started (see above). That leaves one key step: starting the tail cut. I wonder if the marking knife could double as a kerf starter for the tails, too. Big open question. I’ll let you know when it comes in the mail.
The rest of it is sawing straight once you’ve started. I can already attest that I’m having greater success with Rob’s saw than with my pull saws so far.
Hi Rob, I have been watching many of your videos, current and from years past. I’m 70 years old, still working, but I now get up daily excited about learning and producing. You are a great educator! I have some similar issues with eyesight. I notice you have changed your “vision assist” gear recently from the grey with inset lenses, to a white set with lenses hanging below and in front of your glasses. Can you tell me what the near device is? Do they augment your glasses which you already seems to use for close up work? Thanks again for your superb teaching.
I do not wear my glasses with my headgear, Jake got the new ones for me and they are still in the trial phase, dont know if I like them better than my old ones yet
thank you Rob
Thank you for the lesson! It was very interesting and informative.
You bet. Glad you liked it
What a great video. Well structure, simple to follow, entertaining, interlaced with years of experience and knowledge. What else could you ask for. Thanks Rob.
Q. Is there a simple way of setting out uniformly varying dovetales. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin joint.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm thinking one could make a pair of skew chisels (one left & one right handed) by modifying standard bevel chisels or pre manufactured to the desired angle?
Greetings from Poland. 😁🇵🇱
Hello
You set the marking gauge off the thickness of the pin board before you cut the rabbet in it. Won't that throw off the marking gauge setting?
Do you add a bit to the length of your pin board to account for the shallow groove you put in the tail board to ensure the drawer fits in its opening?
Great video as usual! I bought your video of the same process a while back also, but this presentation is better. Faved and saved on UA-cam!
I noticed your new head set magnifiers, I bought the same a few months back and for the most part they do a pretty fair job. I like that they came with several extra snap on lenses too. The l.e.d. lamp is OK, but my one gripe is it doesn't stay tight on my head. Always seems to loosen while I'm working and slips down on my forehead.
I guess that's the price for having a pinhead!
I am still in the testing phase of mine
Wow, very nice!
the wood surgeon !
Exceptional as usual Professor Cos. I can do thru dovetails pretty fair. Guess I will tell Santa I need a Kerf x10 and a dovetail chisel for Xmas. Don't think he has a new body that doesn't shake, LOL, so maybe the extra gear will help the old guy out, me. Stay safe. Semper Fi.
Happy holidays!
Rob, can you hit the Kerf X-10 with a metal hammer? I use a 375 g Daruma Genno steel hammer. It seems that would dent the back of the X-10. Do you agree?
if you have a bandsaw, you can resaw the piece of wood, do a normal dovetail, and glue it back together.
Yes that works and sometimes I do a version of that. We actually have that for a video coming up
Wow! Fantastic work!
Thank you very much for the interesting and useful video. I look forward to the next master classes. :)
Take care of yourself there.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Brilliant!
thnaks
Amazing work Rob. But you must have a different dictionary to me. Not sure what I watched meets the definition of Easy. Wish I could cut dovetails half as neatly.
Thank you
Great video and it does help !!! Thanks
Glad to hear it!
Amazing
Rob- is the mallet head resin infused? I know that my friend head would be stouter if so!
yes
Amazing video tremendous amount of detail I wanted to ask, is there any faster way to chop/remove the waste off the pins?
Not by hand
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you
Hi Rob. Really enjoy your videos. Question if I may. I'm using Western Maple for drawer sides, 1/2"x5". I"m getting a massive amount of tear out when I chop the waist from the pins.
I like to think my tools are sharp, honed and stropped. Drawer side clamped to a piece of scrap, but the cross grain portion of the joint looks like the mountains of the moon. Any thoughts?
Low angle primary bevel, we use 17 degree. Makes a huge improvement on that kind of tear out.
Hi Rob.One more time an amazing video.I have one question.About LN #140 skew block plane for a person right hand what is the better choose , skew for right or left?
Get the same skew as your dominate hand
Spettacolare!!!! What can we do with a plane and some chisels
Another great tutorial, thanks Rob! Before getting that awesome dove tail chisel, I'm asking myself, "how on earth will I sharpen that?"
Just like any other chisel. See my chisel sharpening video
impressive!
Hi Rob
Would you please tell me how high your work bench is and how tall you are. You appear to be planing wood at a comfortable height whereas I have to bend forward to plane on my bench. Thanks
36 1/2”
Why did you set the marking gauge for the tail board before cutting the rebate?
You are correct. I made a mistake
I tried cutting dove tails today. Total failure. I am blaming the Irwin saw. Personally I like the very thin Japan made saw . I’m still learning Rob.
is that the 173rd patch?
Beauty!
I had never seen something like the tool you used to finish the cut. Have a name or you designed it?
My design. I call it the Kerf X10
@@RobCosmanWoodworking IMO, once you use the Kerf X10, you'll never go back. A must-have for half-blind DT's.
Is there a simple way of laying out uniformly varying dovetals. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin. Or small, medium, small for a three pin.
When you mean varying sizes, varying how? Thickness of pins, length of pins, or size of space between pins?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Width of pins. I was looking for a way similar to the way you use dividers. I can't see a way of that working. The only way I can see is to decide on a unit of division (IE. 3mm) and use multiples of that unit. So, side space = 2, space between pins = 1, outer pins = 3, centre pin = 4. Hence this three pin design would be 15 units, or in this case using 3mm units it would be a 45mm wide side board. Layout the pin design and then trim to width.
The problem with this system is for this simple 3 pin unit then increasing the division unit by 1mm increases the width by 15mm (7/8"). Hence, my search for a way of using the dividers. They reference the existing width of the board as it's base unit.
Hi new on your channel. I cant find a kerc x10 anymore, you know any sites to but it? Thanks
I had an idea, if someone owns a power chisel that's smooth they could make a chisel from a scraper blade the same thickness as the kerf. I'm assuming it'll work I don't own one to test it.
Thanks for the lesson again, but i want to ask for suggestion.
I want to try and build wardrobe with sliding doors but im not sure what joint to use there because by opening the doors there will always be some sort of hard hit on the sides and i dont want it to broke after a while. Any idea is welcomed and thanks again.
Soft opening hinges.
@@htcinfinity thanks that should work also but i meant what would be the strongest joint?
Sliding doors that just slide left and right? Why not stnadrd doors tha swing open, that is what I would do
@@RobCosmanWoodworking its mostly because space the distance from the bed to the wardrobe would be roughly 60-70 cm. And i want the wardrobe to be 2 meters wide.
Rob what do think off the tapered dovetail saws, I know you don't sell one
Its a gimmick. The only reason the old saws are like that is because when you sharpen them all the time that happens. Just learn to saw level
Thanks for sharing that
Thnaks for commenting
thanks
Great video Rob and Jake.! I have one question, I've watched your other through dovetail and halfblinds videos, but for some reason I can't figure out why you off set sawblade kerf? Is it to make the joint tighter or reduce gap?
You offset so that you end up sawing exactly on the edge of the pin where it meets the tail. If you did not offset there would be a gap the size of your kerf on each side of every tail
Ok, that makes sense, thanks I appreciate it!
My half blind dovetails always come out better than my through dovetails. I think its because with the half blinds I'm only focused making sure 2 planes of the wood matching perfectly. With the through dovetails I have to worry about 3 planes.
Thanks..
Subscribed..
Can you use tools that normally people would have like standerd not fancy tools?
Which tools are you referencing?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking like not the marking gauge, the dovetail chisel, dividers, you know all those tools. I'm sorry but I don't have those tools but I really wanna know how to do this. Hope you can help, thanks
Like this?
ua-cam.com/video/S4vLxwUa5yY/v-deo.html
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you, can this be applied to halfblind aswell?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I should probably add I'm a woodworker/constructor aswell and have a shop in my garage 🙃
Don’t you have to measure the thickness of tail board after you cut the rabbit?
BTW Rob you have that “natural” affinity for teaching, I often wonder if you talk your way thru cutting dovetails when ur alone lol
You can take the measurement before or after th erabet as long as you account for th ethickness. I recommend taking the measuremt after cutting the rabet.
Rob this is the year I win the lottery, so you need to get your elfs on those Christmas tools for us. I see a number of them are missing.
The elves are busy at their workbenches
Plum?
How do you sharpen the special chisel? Just on the front or also the two angled sides? Is there a different way to trace the pins with the knife instead of doing that extra angled sawing? I disliked that new action a lot, it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake...
You sharpen the half-blind chisel just like any other chisel. the angled part doesn't need to be real sharp as its main job is to allow the front to getinto the corner, I dont think I have ever sharpenedmine. If I did I would just take a fine file to the angled sides.
AsI said in th evideo you can just do the normal tracing (e.g. loke through dovetails) just dont go past your line on the pin board as that would show. You just have to eyeball the plumb part of your cut, which can easily be done.
I dont understand your comment, " it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake..." please explain
Well we throw it out there and you get to take what you want.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking all clear to me, thank you!!!
Watching your videos make me want to quit work and cut wood.
Lapped dovetails
WTF - ...on Step 357... this has to be the most complicated way to cut a half-blind
Send me the link to your video so I can compare.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sorry, didn't mean to be so harsh. I don't have a video. Guess it's kind of old-school...just use a dovetail saw, couple of bench chisels and a fishtail chisel (other than what's required for markup). Granted it took some time to get proficient with these tools to get good results, but that pays off in so many other ways. I'll sometimes I drill along the baseline to break up the cross fibers. I do like how you finish off the saw cuts with your tool and may give that a try.
Over cuts are poor craftsmanship!
Who is speaking, show your work?