Thanks for the great tips, Matt! Because of your tips, I have decided to stop doing my lamp work until I can get my work area set up properly. Because it is ridiculous for me to be working with open hot glass, and torches, in a carpeted room. all crowded up with too much junk around me, and not having the proper face protection either. It is a tough decision for me to make, because it will be awhile until I can get back to learning the tricks of the trade. But it sure beats burning my house down, or injuring myself badly, or ruining my eyes. Thank you so much again!
3:33 I do recommend the 12" 1000cfm fan for your exhaust. I was showing off the 8" fan because my larger 12" one was already installed on the hood. 4:25 I was reading off the wrong numbers for PSI. It would be more around 200psi reduced to 5psi for Propane and 2000psi reduced to 15psi for Oxygen. You NEED a flame arrestor on the tank! If you only install it on the torch you could burn through the line and into the tank. So a flame arrestor on the tank IS needed!
You don't want to completely close the valves, but a little bit shouldn't hurt. I just find on these oxy-cons its easier to leave the oxygen wide open and control the propane levels instead. I can still get a nice neutral flame but my smaller flame is always oxidizing.
Hey Matt, I was wondering how you would set up the inline fan for exhaust...does it just sit on the table or do you have to mount them in a window somehow? Do you have a website you would recommend where I could buy one? Thanks in advance🔥🔥I’ve never set up my own ventilation & not sure entirely how it works
Hey L0ve, Ventilation is very important for long term health, removing the dangerous gases produced from combustion and pushing them outside. You can build a shelf below a window with L-Brackets to support the weight of the fan, then secure it against the wall with Eye-hooks and rope. It doesn't have to be an air tight fit in the window, just secure and blowing outside. Then attach the fan to your vent-hood with ducting. Amazon might be the easiest place to find a fan. Any other questions let me know.
I think sometimes the hardest part of building anything yourself is finding the materials. I walked around my local hardware store until I found these. I bought 2 and attached them together to form a rectangle. I cut and bent the sides down to form a box/vent hood --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-26-gauge-rectangular-metal-duct-pipe/15316489hb/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-26-gauge-rectangular-metal-duct-pipe/15342450hb/p-1444432235537.htm Straight ducting is more efficient than flexible ducting but can be much harder to install. Match it to the size of your fan, this one is 10" round. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-30-gauge-round-metal-duct-pipe/10103240bb/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-30-gauge-round-metal-duct-pipe/10110600lq/p-1444432219318.htm Here is an adjustable 90° fitting for the solid ducting. It starts off straight but can be rotated around like a Rubik's cube. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/straight-elbow-26-gauge-duct-fitting/15010006sb/p-1444432220589-c-14260.htm?tid=5434422887936461102&ipos=2 You should be able to use this to connect the solid duct to the vent-hood, after you cut a 10" hole. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/start-collar-without-crimp-28-gauge-duct-fitting/01310008zlq/p-1444432200933-c-14260.htm?tid=9164124112481058581&ipos=99 Lastly it would be most efficient to avoid a reducer fittings if you can and plan out where everything is going to go. You don't want to run ducting all the way across a room if you don't have to. Let me know if this helps and if you have anymore questions.
Your welcome :D. You might want to check the social sites. I see used kilns come up on Facebook sometimes. Kilns are usually the last thing people upgrade, so there are some out there but probably not as much as used torches.
Hey friend, liquified petroleum cannot reach 800 psi ( at least on any setups Ive seen). That’s because it’s not a mechanically pressurized gas put into a cylinder, it’s a liquid that happens wants to vaporize due to being above -42°C but can’t due to the volume constraints of the tank. I think you were reading a different unit, usually LP is at 150 psi
Great tips to minimize the, "the BLEED and BURN phase" of learning lampwork. There are a few things I would add: #1 First Aid Kit nearby #2 Good wire management (Avoid electrical wires placed where hot glass could melt through insulation #3 Keep HEAVY leather gloves a.k.a. welder gloves or kiln gloves and a long pair of metal tongs in a nearby designated location
Thanks Jimmy, those are good tips. I'm planning to make a new more up to date video on safety, I'll include your tips along with a lot more general information. It won't be separate videos like a series either, but one complete reference so all the information is in the same place.
Really I wanted to know more about the glasses but that wasn’t went over very much. Why do you need them? Does the glass do a thing and get too bright? Or is it from the torch?
Sorry there wasn't enough info. Their mainly there to protect your eyes. The glass could crack and pop off tiny shards towards your eyes, also for UV protection AND a didymium filter. The didymium blocks the orange light (sodium flare) which can give you headaches. Besides all that it does get too bright. When i'm working large projects or opaque colors I'll throw on a dark face mask ontop of everything else.
Matt Jasa I think what I’m trying to ask is if it’s safe to do it without the glasses. I do metal work already and would be interested in messing around with glass a little, but don’t want to have to buy materials and such or wear my welding hood
@@stormyeffects4795 Ok I gotcha! It's not as intense as working metal but you'll still want some protection, sunglasses at the very least. However they won't block the sodium flare, you need didymium filtered glasses for that. To much sodium flare gives you headaches but I don't think its half as bad as too much UV damage to your eyes.
Yes you can, glass isn't water soluble and non reactive to most things other then a strong acid. Now if its molten when you drop it in (like in my intro) it will most likely crack like crazy and make small air-bubbles when you try to re-heat it in the flame later. It takes a lot of innate magical power to resist the cracks.
Or you just make two of the rods for the intro put one in the water hit it shatters, then pause the camera get a whole other out in the water and resume recording
the old hot lips is an interesting experience you dont get really burned thanks to the leidenfrost effect. a real interesting feeling having your spit boil on top of your lips
I actually haven't made that mistake yet; But I have cut my lip on a sharp blow tube. Mistakes are often impromptu lessons in life. Someone who hasn't made a lot of mistakes hasn't learned much.
@@b4ds33d I took 4 classes for lamp working at a local college. They always trained the POOP method. Guess they said its always best to add oxygen last and then reverse the method when turning off then bleed both lines. Guess if it works both ways works too.
Thanks for the great tips, Matt! Because of your tips, I have decided to stop doing my lamp work until I can get my work area set up properly. Because it is ridiculous for me to be working with open hot glass, and torches, in a carpeted room. all crowded up with too much junk around me, and not having the proper face protection either.
It is a tough decision for me to make, because it will be awhile until I can get back to learning the tricks of the trade.
But it sure beats burning my house down, or injuring myself badly, or ruining my eyes.
Thank you so much again!
Such an awesome video didn’t know about the bleeding the lines at the end
thank you for this video.. very informative.
Your welcome, glad you found it helpful.
Who dislikes his videos? He is very clear and provides great tips for starting out.
3:33 I do recommend the 12" 1000cfm fan for your exhaust. I was showing off the 8" fan because my larger 12" one was already installed on the hood. 4:25 I was reading off the wrong numbers for PSI. It would be more around 200psi reduced to 5psi for Propane and 2000psi reduced to 15psi for Oxygen. You NEED a flame arrestor on the tank! If you only install it on the torch you could burn through the line and into the tank. So a flame arrestor on the tank IS needed!
solid video man.
Awesome video im setting my torch up soon as i get my tanks
Thank you, and that's cool to hear your setting up your own torch. Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions.
Great tips. Thanks.
I have my fan intake right past the tip of the flames the extra air getting sucked across the flame is like a little turbo
Good tips, so on oxygen cons its best to keep that open all the way vs closing down the valve? How do you control the oxygen levels?
You don't want to completely close the valves, but a little bit shouldn't hurt. I just find on these oxy-cons its easier to leave the oxygen wide open and control the propane levels instead. I can still get a nice neutral flame but my smaller flame is always oxidizing.
Hey Matt,
I was wondering how you would set up the inline fan for exhaust...does it just sit on the table or do you have to mount them in a window somehow? Do you have a website you would recommend where I could buy one? Thanks in advance🔥🔥I’ve never set up my own ventilation & not sure entirely how it works
Hey L0ve, Ventilation is very important for long term health, removing the dangerous gases produced from combustion and pushing them outside. You can build a shelf below a window with L-Brackets to support the weight of the fan, then secure it against the wall with Eye-hooks and rope. It doesn't have to be an air tight fit in the window, just secure and blowing outside. Then attach the fan to your vent-hood with ducting. Amazon might be the easiest place to find a fan. Any other questions let me know.
where could I go to buy materials to build that hood? been having difficulty figuring out how to best build it
I think sometimes the hardest part of building anything yourself is finding the materials.
I walked around my local hardware store until I found these. I bought 2 and attached them together to form a rectangle. I cut and bent the sides down to form a box/vent hood --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-26-gauge-rectangular-metal-duct-pipe/15316489hb/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-26-gauge-rectangular-metal-duct-pipe/15342450hb/p-1444432235537.htm
Straight ducting is more efficient than flexible ducting but can be much harder to install. Match it to the size of your fan, this one is 10" round. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-30-gauge-round-metal-duct-pipe/10103240bb/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-pipe/heating-cooling-products-30-gauge-round-metal-duct-pipe/10110600lq/p-1444432219318.htm
Here is an adjustable 90° fitting for the solid ducting. It starts off straight but can be rotated around like a Rubik's cube. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/straight-elbow-26-gauge-duct-fitting/15010006sb/p-1444432220589-c-14260.htm?tid=5434422887936461102&ipos=2
You should be able to use this to connect the solid duct to the vent-hood, after you cut a 10" hole. --> www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/start-collar-without-crimp-28-gauge-duct-fitting/01310008zlq/p-1444432200933-c-14260.htm?tid=9164124112481058581&ipos=99
Lastly it would be most efficient to avoid a reducer fittings if you can and plan out where everything is going to go. You don't want to run ducting all the way across a room if you don't have to. Let me know if this helps and if you have anymore questions.
@@MattJasa thanks a lot gonna give it a try
Hi Matt, with regard to the glasses... Are welding glasses comparable to the glasses you use?
Thanks tgis gave me some more ideas on duckts and fans
Do you know where to get a good used guillotine Kiln under $600-$700
Your welcome :D. You might want to check the social sites. I see used kilns come up on Facebook sometimes. Kilns are usually the last thing people upgrade, so there are some out there but probably not as much as used torches.
@@MattJasa thank you. Ill be sure to look.
Hey friend, liquified petroleum cannot reach 800 psi ( at least on any setups Ive seen). That’s because it’s not a mechanically pressurized gas put into a cylinder, it’s a liquid that happens wants to vaporize due to being above -42°C but can’t due to the volume constraints of the tank. I think you were reading a different unit, usually LP is at 150 psi
Your correct. I mistakenly read the wrong side of the gauge. I try my best to correct my mistakes, thank you.
Great tips to minimize the, "the BLEED and BURN phase" of learning lampwork. There are a few things I would add: #1 First Aid Kit nearby #2 Good wire management (Avoid electrical wires placed where hot glass could melt through insulation #3 Keep HEAVY leather gloves a.k.a. welder gloves or kiln gloves and a long pair of metal tongs in a nearby designated location
Thanks Jimmy, those are good tips. I'm planning to make a new more up to date video on safety, I'll include your tips along with a lot more general information. It won't be separate videos like a series either, but one complete reference so all the information is in the same place.
Really I wanted to know more about the glasses but that wasn’t went over very much. Why do you need them? Does the glass do a thing and get too bright? Or is it from the torch?
Sorry there wasn't enough info. Their mainly there to protect your eyes. The glass could crack and pop off tiny shards towards your eyes, also for UV protection AND a didymium filter. The didymium blocks the orange light (sodium flare) which can give you headaches.
Besides all that it does get too bright. When i'm working large projects or opaque colors I'll throw on a dark face mask ontop of everything else.
Matt Jasa
I think what I’m trying to ask is if it’s safe to do it without the glasses. I do metal work already and would be interested in messing around with glass a little, but don’t want to have to buy materials and such or wear my welding hood
@@stormyeffects4795 Ok I gotcha! It's not as intense as working metal but you'll still want some protection, sunglasses at the very least. However they won't block the sodium flare, you need didymium filtered glasses for that. To much sodium flare gives you headaches but I don't think its half as bad as too much UV damage to your eyes.
Matt Jasa
Okay, thank you so much for all the information and help. I subscribed.
Where did you get your fan from?
12" Active Air In-line from Amazon. I bought it for $157 then, its at $172 now.
Can you reuse the glass after it's been put in water?
Yes you can, glass isn't water soluble and non reactive to most things other then a strong acid. Now if its molten when you drop it in (like in my intro) it will most likely crack like crazy and make small air-bubbles when you try to re-heat it in the flame later. It takes a lot of innate magical power to resist the cracks.
Or you just make two of the rods for the intro put one in the water hit it shatters, then pause the camera get a whole other out in the water and resume recording
the old hot lips is an interesting experience you dont get really burned thanks to the leidenfrost effect. a real interesting feeling having your spit boil on top of your lips
I actually haven't made that mistake yet; But I have cut my lip on a sharp blow tube. Mistakes are often impromptu lessons in life. Someone who hasn't made a lot of mistakes hasn't learned much.
The way I learned was the acronym p.o.o.p. propane on, oxygen on, oxygen off, propane off.😅
Yup, that's an easy way to remember.
always remember POOP for turning on/off torch. Propane-Oxygen, Oxygen-Propane
Yeah not always dog. There is OPPO as well.
@@b4ds33d you turn your oxy on before propane? Dmamnn pop central
Educate yourself.
@@b4ds33d lolz
@@b4ds33d I took 4 classes for lamp working at a local college. They always trained the POOP method. Guess they said its always best to add oxygen last and then reverse the method when turning off then bleed both lines. Guess if it works both ways works too.