I'm not at electrician but it so refreshing watching your videos. As a DIYer ,I have learnt so much about the trade and whats code or not from just a few of your videos. Youre an excellent educator - I hope you teach classes lol. Keep up the good work!
ANY ELECTRICIAN WHO HAS BEEN IN THE BUSINESS FOR A DECENT LENGHT OF TIME HAS WORKED HOT JOBS - IT'S JUST PART OF THE GAME AND AT THE END OF THE DAY---IT GETS DONE. I'VE DONE MORE THEN ONE JOB THAT LASTED TILL 2 IN THE AM! YOUR DOING A GOOD JOB MR, JEFFERSON.
I would of used my Franklin Sensors stud finder, model 710 to locate all the studs across the wall between switches, drawn a straight horizontal line for a Milwaukee 4” hole saw to cut the drywall over each stud for an opening and then used a 4’-5’ flex drill bit to create holes in the studs to pull new wire across the wall from the new switch location and down to the basement. The 4” round cutouts make patching the walls painless. And no stupid looking blank outlet cover in the middle of the wall. Everyone has their own way. I really like watching your videos. I do learn more about the trade I love every time.
Southwest Missouri here, another great video. I have not seen your camera person mentioned in the comments before. I wish to give kudos to them they do a very good job. Also I wanted to comment on you don't have a radio blaring in the background. Really enjoy not listening to the radio in the background on videos
Just found your videos we need more foreman out there with this kind of patience great info really easy to learn from your thoroughness!! Just a Cali apprentice trying to learn thanks for the video!!
I don’t even work for Joel but he must be a great boss respectful, willing to learn and commitment to honesty, integrity and excellence. One of the best👍🏾
You couldn't pay me enough to be an electrician. I enjoy watching your vids if only to say, "There but for the grace of God, fat fingers, and gross incompetence go I," after every one. You're spot on about Robertson screws, btw.
Ideal armor bands Joel for wrapping around switches and receptacles save so much time and much better solution. With these old boxes I always vacuum out and if your pig tailing in those boxes I just prefer to rip out and install a larger box for future proofing and avoid inadvertent shorts. I have seen this quite a lot.
Sorry about the number of comments. I have to say when my insulated Wiha ruler connectors broke I called Wiha they just sent me a new one I love that you use your ruler just as much as I do. I would still torque those switch and receptacle screws I am sure that you did that but we just did not see it.
The can lights you installed are what the UK were fitting 50 years ago . Is that the cutting edge modern way in the US ? It looks old , the connections are rough and it takes too long . A typical 6 light install in the Uk would take an hour to cut the holes and connect up if that .
I recently got a Klein Borescope (ET20) that is so helpful when performing work like this. It is around $100 and uses your phone's screen for display. It saves a lot of time and guesswork. I've been wanting a borescope for a long time, but the quality was poor (Chinese) or the price was very high. Klein seems to have hit the spot with this one.
That part at 52:00 is why WAGO splicing connectors are superior to wire nuts. Along with the benefit of each WAGO connector taking up less valuable box space, being not just compatible with different wire gauges but also make reliable connections between solid and stranded conductors, as well as their resistance to being bumped loose if you're manipulating other conductors that will brush against the splice.
Wondering Why the homeowner didn't go with the newer style of LED Recess Lighting Fixtures the ones that have a small metal junction box that the NM-B Rome goes into the then the small 3 or 4 inch LED Fixture just mounts into the 3 0r 4 inch cutout hole, snapping in place . Easier than installing those Big Old Style 6 '' Recessed Metal Can types !
Love your videos Man!! But for god sakes please use a nut driver when fastening those green ground screws! Those damn flat heads are aggravating as hell especially when you're trying to get those screws in at a 90° angle.
I'm a electrician apprentice, and im gonna be honest your Videos are really informative although some things i can't do/try Out because they are Not allowed where i live. Mainly because i live in Europe (Germany).
Thank Edison for the Screw in style light bulb, BUT thank George Westinghouse for the power (AC) that makes it work. Tesla and Westinghouse collaborated to change the world. Westinghouse deserves a spot on your shirt. Just Sayin
Ok... another very educational video... From a journeyman prospective.... Questions, because I'm learning... 1)Why would you pull all that new wire, but leave the old"crusty" BX wire? 2) Why would you cut a hug hole in the ceiling to avoid attic entry, when Attic was available, as shown later, when you went up to the old J Box? Otherwise, great job😎😎
Not sure what going on with the hole in back of old box, chosen for ground screw location. Would have tried to tap it or re-tap it, and then put the ground screw in to it. Love your videos!
I sincerely respect your work. I could have done it more easier and cleaner way. I specialize such work. Average I install 60-70 lights a month. For example, switch movement could be more cleaner off box with the dead plate was omitted and put in basement. Wall could be more clean. Anyhow I love your presentation. 👍🏼
I too have & recommend a Kline non contact tester. I have the NCVT-41R voltage tester + thermometer. I like to see where heat is without having to touch things and my cats love the laser it has (bonus). When retiring a traveler it is best to add red electrical tape to both ends or white tape and mark it with a sharpie as such. Why fight tightening the ground screw using a flat blade when you can use a nut driver instead? When you finally realize you should use a #12 solid to fish down and catch the fish tape, Priceless. Imagine doing these things alone. I do these things on my 89 year old home but I don't straighten the wire, I make a long arc so I can spin it and catch the fish tape as I turn the hook on the end. Dropping a chain and fishing from the bottom with a #12 wire is another way I do this fish. When you work alone, you improvise, adapt and overcome. I noticed on a different video you introduced an employee who was a landscaper, and in the same video you stated you were hiring. Try to grab up potential candidates with drywall experience to mitigate extensive drywall repair cost by having such skilled employees onboard. I happen to be retired and I retired having mastered all skilled trades. If not for the fact I enjoy being retired, I would love to work with Y'all. I will settle for watching you and critiquing your work. Of the several pro's I do watch,, you have the least amount of things I need to talk about, you do a fantastic job and great at verbalizing as well. That vent you found that was rusted thru when you opened up to find that illegal "non j-box" should have been addressed by a plumber and patched using Fernco and PVC connections. Sometimes these vents in older homes are also used to vent the main waste line and leaving this pipe open could leave the potential for gasses to infiltrate the living space. Having disturbed this bad pipe could also lead to rain water breaking through the rust dam in this bad pips and eventually leaking down to cause damage in the patch your drywall guy makes. This can be a call back as it was fine till you worked on it. If this pipe was just a vent, it did not have the proper slope to allow rain water to drain out and that caused it to pool water and rust through. Slow is smooth & smooth is fast.
I want to install Two-Duplex Outlets in a double-gang electrical box inside my 1st floor pantry with bi-fold doors, a 6 foot wide pantry. I want to route a new circuit to the basement panel box so I can put my microwave and toaster in the pantry and an outlet for future cabinet LED lighting inside the pantry later on. Do you use neodymium magnets or drill a skinny insulation support rod through the wood floor in the kitchen first to see where exactly you are between the two floors for finding a safe wire route? I live in North-West Indiana. If you're ever driving through the Schererville, Munster, St.John, area I'd love to get an estimate from you for the job. Thank you.
A ferret camera tool is great you can add them to your rods or fish rods and watch them on your phone as you move it around plus it gives you full view of the void spaces- Superrod is the UK company that does it it’s the equivalent of rack-e-tiers.
@@ElectricProAcademy oh no…. Hope you have better luck with the second time. Tools are nice but the justification is always does it allow you to do a better job, does it provide time efficiencies that the willingness to go above and beyond and investing in your staff Jefferson Electric is an excellent example of modeling such excellence for the electrical industry.
Can you make elaborated video on how to pass CBSL for C10 after 4 years of experience. I mean what to study. What is examination center environment. Best reading materials (online/hard books). I am in CA Bay Area. Thanks
I don't understand why you continue using wire nuts in light fixtures when Wago 222- and 221-series connectors completely eliminate the fuss of connecting solid and stranded conductors. They're also brilliant for creating pigtails in switch boxes when your conductor are too short.
@@ElectricProAcademy I think it's worth the shoulder savings. I'm 46 now and my body doesn't want to do the things it could 20 years ago. The less time I get to spend standing on a ladder with my hands outstretched over my head with a fixture balanced on my shoulder the better. I don't typically use Wago nuts on receptacles and other high-current, high-KWH junctions and outlets (because they have higher internal resistance and they cost more) but on anything that I do overhead Wago 221s are a total no-brainer. I will occasionally use them in receptacles and J-boxes but only in rework situations when the conductor is too short for a wire nut.
A great trick is you bend a coat hanger the put that into a little hole in the ceiling and twist it around in a circle and that will hit something if it’s within 8 inches of the tiny hole it would leave I have been using this trick for years and it works great
How come you just didn't use canless disc lights? Lot cheaper in material, lot easier and versatile to install(can install even with most obstuctions), same end result. Or am I missing some reasoning?
When coupling using two different size wires I prefer copper crimps or wagos and 3rd choice the ideal push ins 18 to 10 gauge I think I very really use them except on multi grounds because they are cheaper than wagos. I just started to use wagos or the ideal push ins when I seen Peterson electricle talk about having to isolate multi ground connections for testing was like ya having to untwist or decrimp multi wires is a pain. The ideal push ins are smaller than wagos and wirenuts so using them to extend shorter conductors in small space is easier (just like shark bites for plumbing I don't trust them fully only use where necessary or easy to get to)
@@ElectricProAcademy I stay away from push-in ones though Wago push-ins are very robust and high quality. I especially like lever connectors more expensive but wagos 221s are just as good as old twist and connect splices but big advantage is when doing continuity testing or insulation resistance testing they come into their own, the heat management is superb as well. Each has its advantages.
@@persona250 very rarely at residential level usually only when fault finding. Mainly continuity and insulation resistance more rarely. Testing is more likely in industrial settings when there are specific servicing and maintenance requirements on large motors inductive loads, transformers, and heating elements (resistive loads) and other large electrical equipment.
im electrician but its my first time in abroad here at koror palau, honestly i dont know how to install 110v, i never encountered or never installed 110v, do you have a tutorial sir how to wire switches and outlets, and proper connections from panel board😢😢
@@ElectricProAcademy I don't think UA-cam likes the links. I sent one and I don't see it in the comments and this happened to me before. I sent it again in you IG inbox a min ago.
1:08:18 The AC bonding strip, copper or aluminum, may be bent either under or over the anti-short and terminated by means of "best practices". From NEMA August 21, 2003: During the termination of Type AC cables, the bonding strip is not terminated in the same manner as an equipment grounding conductor. The bonding strip is not an equipment-grounding conductor according to either UL or the NEC and it is not necessary for it to be terminated. The best practices for terminating the bonding strip based on many years of trade experience with Type AC Cables include: (a) wrapping the bonding strip around the exterior of the cable armor, or (b) laying the bonding strip straight against the exterior of the armor. The bonding strip however may also be completely cut and removed from the end of the armor.
It is basically a bridge to make sure the armor of the AC cable is electrically continuous. That's why MC cable's armor cannot be used as EGC and AC's can (as far as I remember).
@@illestofdemall13 Correct. There have been a number of incarnations of AC cable since its inception to the NEC in 1903. Prior to 1960, by manufacturer, the cable could be manufactured without a bond strip or with a 20, 18, or 16 awg bond strip. While grandfathered in as an EGC, they don't meet current standards and the circuits utilizing older AC should be upgraded.
@@illestofdemall13 True. That's why I mentioned, "they don't meet current standards and the circuits utilizing older AC should be upgraded." The impedance of the circular clad armor and degradation of any connector connection could produce a heating effect in the armor from a ground fault, especially with a breaker that has an issue with fault clearing, such as a FPE. The overheated armor could cause ignition of near-by combustibles.
I ever get to have my house built I am going to insist that every single box be hard wired with it's own ground all the way back to the panel. Further insist that my main panel have separated grounds and neutrals. I LOVE Klein NCV tester. Specifically NCVT3P Dual Range. I have 2 so far. I keep dropping one, and it still works, however I am not sure so I am constantly testing a known hot after I get no reading from the wires I'm working on. I killed one circuit and Klein said it was still hot, so I checked with an analog meter and it moved the needle but not significantly. I was never able to find out why that was happening but I accomplished what I was trying to do.
The last time I saw wire that looked like that (45:20) it was because the circuit didn't trip when it was suppose to and resulted the the wire heating up.
I found two 20 amp breakers in my panel for the two garage circuits (lights & outlets) yet I verified that EVERYTHING was wired with 14 gauge wire. I swapped the breakers out for 15 amp breakers to be safe. My home was built in 1972 and the garage in 1973. Everything run in rigid conduit with the exception of 2 lights and one outlet I have added and run Romex as it's easiest to fish in a finished wall. However my Father has a home built in 2018. The ENTIRE house is comprised of 20 amp breakers, yet from what I remember I saw a mixture of 12 and 14 gauge wire (Romex) being used as I replaced a switch in his bathroom so he could have separate fan and light control. What gives? Home was built by a large local contractor and was NOT a DIY build! By the way all of us are in Lake County in the northwestern part of Indiana.
i LOVE being a globalist, in fact the MORE people consider themselves along with their home country Citizens of the World the better, a shrinking world i.e. because of the interweb etc. is a change in humankind for the better, all information available to all people all the time
Dang Man ! STOP using a Box Cutter Utility Razor Knife to remove the outer jacket of the NM-B Romex Cable and get yourself one of the NM-B Rome Cable Strippers before you cut and damage the insulation of the conductors inside the jacket !! I always cringe when I see someone using a Box Cutter Razor Blade Utility Knife to remove the outer sheathing !!
The UK uses a lot of all in one fixtures which then requires a certified electrician out there to basically change a lightbulb if the LEDs go out. Because technically the homeowner shouldn't be doing electrical and there's all sorts of safety nonsenseish paperwork stuff. I think the screw in lightbulb socket is the way to go you can make that permanent well the bulb is interchanged easily by anybody safely.
@@ElectricProAcademy damn right. I changed out a bunch of lights in a blimp hangar and every splice that I had to touch (all but 2) fell apart when I removed the wire nut. nuts to those "production electricians"
hey Joel, at the 27 minute mark where you guys were trying to go through the block, here's a handy trick to try: we would have a string and tie a screw or nail onto it for a weight, drop it down the hole in the block from the top so there was plenty of string, and then hook it from the bottom hole with a simple piece of copper wire with a hook on it. you may need to bend the copper wire and root it around to hook, but it's very simple and works well.
When adding new wire...instead of going to the unfinished basement, why not try to remove the baseboard and cut the drywall just below the baseboard and then drill through the studs and run your wire. As I am sure you know, make sure the wire will not be compromised by drywall screws or brad nails when reinstalling both the drywall and the baseboard. As for the ceiling, I think I would prefer a hole saw method ( mentioned below by Loren Rickley) I enjoy your videos and it is much easier on everyone to reaffix drywall and baseboard where no one sees the cut issue and only involves 1 person. Money/Time and labor as you always say, "Slow and Smooth, means Efficient."
Read the lid on your high hat only 4 #12 awg. So Box fill is only 9 in. (2) 14 awg is 10 in so your over the box fill on your high hat. That shit is crazy.
If you ever need any old school advice about any of the construction your more than welcome to call me and I'll be more than happy to give it for free I'm retiredish hahaha! LoL it's just Joist if plural it's Joist lol I am sorry it just sounds funny with the s you added hahaha I don't know were you gentlemen are working I've moved from California to here in Oklahoma my god in heaven I thought I had seen everything lol
You should have used Wago 222's wire connectors instead of wire Nuts inside the junction box of those recessed can lights !! Wagos take up less space in a junction box when compared to wire nuts , especially on those recessed can light junction boxes ! You don't use '' used wire nuts '' ??? I have for years and never had a problem with them ! Boy, You '' nitpic '' everything too much !!
I'm not at electrician but it so refreshing watching your videos. As a DIYer ,I have learnt so much about the trade and whats code or not from just a few of your videos. Youre an excellent educator - I hope you teach classes lol. Keep up the good work!
As an apprentice your videos are so valuable! I learn as much or more from what you show us as I do in the field. Thank you!
The field is where lessons learned are put to best use.
A neat little trick is to have your helper call your phone, put it on speaker, then let him listen for the tester tone to turn off while he listens.
ANY ELECTRICIAN WHO HAS BEEN IN THE BUSINESS FOR A DECENT LENGHT OF TIME HAS WORKED HOT JOBS - IT'S JUST PART OF THE GAME AND AT THE END OF THE DAY---IT GETS DONE. I'VE DONE MORE THEN ONE JOB THAT LASTED TILL 2 IN THE AM! YOUR DOING A GOOD JOB MR, JEFFERSON.
I would of used my Franklin Sensors stud finder, model 710 to locate all the studs across the wall between switches, drawn a straight horizontal line for a Milwaukee 4” hole saw to cut the drywall over each stud for an opening and then used a 4’-5’ flex drill bit to create holes in the studs to pull new wire across the wall from the new switch location and down to the basement. The 4” round cutouts make patching the walls painless. And no stupid looking blank outlet cover in the middle of the wall. Everyone has their own way. I really like watching your videos. I do learn more about the trade I love every time.
Southwest Missouri here, another great video. I have not seen your camera person mentioned in the comments before. I wish to give kudos to them they do a very good job. Also I wanted to comment on you don't have a radio blaring in the background. Really enjoy not listening to the radio in the background on videos
Great camera work❗️Great narration and useful information👍👍
I really enjoy your videos! Love the 5 star electrical work you do as well!
i just love how indepth you are while your working. its so helpfull for all us. Thank you!!
Glad you found the splice in the ceiling from a previous renovation. Pure luck that you chose that spot to intercept the bx.
Just found your videos we need more foreman out there with this kind of patience great info really easy to learn from your thoroughness!! Just a Cali apprentice trying to learn thanks for the video!!
Thank you for leading with excellence, integrity, and relationship Joel. Easily the best boss I have worked for. Keep at it!
I don’t even work for Joel but he must be a great boss respectful, willing to learn and commitment to honesty, integrity and excellence. One of the best👍🏾
Klein, Ideal, and Milwaukee all make either multidrivers with ECX bits, or individual ECX screwdrivers. They're great for switch and outlet screws!
Encountered surprises - interesting.
You couldn't pay me enough to be an electrician. I enjoy watching your vids if only to say, "There but for the grace of God, fat fingers, and gross incompetence go I," after every one. You're spot on about Robertson screws, btw.
It's cleaner than being a plumber as there's no poop to deal with, but more easily killed by electrocution. Pick your poison?
yo yo... switches be TRIPPIN..
Ideal armor bands Joel for wrapping around switches and receptacles save so much time and much better solution. With these old boxes I always vacuum out and if your pig tailing in those boxes I just prefer to rip out and install a larger box for future proofing and avoid inadvertent shorts. I have seen this quite a lot.
Nothing I hate more than a box filled with plaster or drywall debris!
Great Job
Sorry about the number of comments. I have to say when my insulated Wiha ruler connectors broke I called Wiha they just sent me a new one I love that you use your ruler just as much as I do. I would still torque those switch and receptacle screws I am sure that you did that but we just did not see it.
The can lights you installed are what the UK were fitting 50 years ago . Is that the cutting edge modern way in the US ? It looks old , the connections are rough and it takes too long . A typical 6 light install in the Uk would take an hour to cut the holes and connect up if that .
I recently got a Klein Borescope (ET20) that is so helpful when performing work like this. It is around $100 and uses your phone's screen for display. It saves a lot of time and guesswork. I've been wanting a borescope for a long time, but the quality was poor (Chinese) or the price was very high. Klein seems to have hit the spot with this one.
I love it when I cut my holes for the lights, and I see Open- Web Floor Trusses Joist. It is a little happy dance.
Would love to see your electric vehicle condo charger install!!
That part at 52:00 is why WAGO splicing connectors are superior to wire nuts. Along with the benefit of each WAGO connector taking up less valuable box space, being not just compatible with different wire gauges but also make reliable connections between solid and stranded conductors, as well as their resistance to being bumped loose if you're manipulating other conductors that will brush against the splice.
Wire nuts always. Blah to Wago
Wondering Why the homeowner didn't go with the newer style of LED Recess Lighting Fixtures the ones that have a small metal junction box that the NM-B Rome goes into the then the small 3 or 4 inch LED Fixture just mounts into the 3 0r 4 inch cutout hole, snapping in place . Easier than installing those Big Old Style 6 '' Recessed Metal Can types !
I screamed at the screen to use a nut driver lol 😂
Love your videos Man!! But for god sakes please use a nut driver when fastening those green ground screws! Those damn flat heads are aggravating as hell especially when you're trying to get those screws in at a 90° angle.
I'm a electrician apprentice, and im gonna be honest your Videos are really informative although some things i can't do/try Out because they are Not allowed where i live. Mainly because i live in Europe (Germany).
Thank Edison for the Screw in style light bulb, BUT thank George Westinghouse for the power (AC) that makes it work. Tesla and Westinghouse collaborated to change the world. Westinghouse deserves a spot on your shirt.
Just Sayin
Ok... another very educational video...
From a journeyman prospective....
Questions, because I'm learning...
1)Why would you pull all that new wire, but leave the old"crusty" BX wire?
2) Why would you cut a hug hole in the ceiling to avoid attic entry, when Attic was available, as shown later, when you went up to the old J Box?
Otherwise, great job😎😎
Not sure what going on with the hole in back of old box, chosen for ground screw location. Would have tried to tap it or re-tap it, and then put the ground screw in to it. Love your videos!
I have used an automotive magnet. On an extension to push through the fireblock and stick to my helpers' fish tape.
I sincerely respect your work. I could have done it more easier and cleaner way. I specialize such work. Average I install 60-70 lights a month. For example, switch movement could be more cleaner off box with the dead plate was omitted and put in basement. Wall could be more clean. Anyhow I love your presentation. 👍🏼
I too have & recommend a Kline non contact tester. I have the NCVT-41R voltage tester + thermometer. I like to see where heat is without having to touch things and my cats love the laser it has (bonus).
When retiring a traveler it is best to add red electrical tape to both ends or white tape and mark it with a sharpie as such.
Why fight tightening the ground screw using a flat blade when you can use a nut driver instead?
When you finally realize you should use a #12 solid to fish down and catch the fish tape, Priceless. Imagine doing these things alone. I do these things on my 89 year old home but I don't straighten the wire, I make a long arc so I can spin it and catch the fish tape as I turn the hook on the end. Dropping a chain and fishing from the bottom with a #12 wire is another way I do this fish. When you work alone, you improvise, adapt and overcome.
I noticed on a different video you introduced an employee who was a landscaper, and in the same video you stated you were hiring. Try to grab up potential candidates with drywall experience to mitigate extensive drywall repair cost by having such skilled employees onboard. I happen to be retired and I retired having mastered all skilled trades. If not for the fact I enjoy being retired, I would love to work with Y'all. I will settle for watching you and critiquing your work. Of the several pro's I do watch,, you have the least amount of things I need to talk about, you do a fantastic job and great at verbalizing as well.
That vent you found that was rusted thru when you opened up to find that illegal "non j-box" should have been addressed by a plumber and patched using Fernco and PVC connections. Sometimes these vents in older homes are also used to vent the main waste line and leaving this pipe open could leave the potential for gasses to infiltrate the living space. Having disturbed this bad pipe could also lead to rain water breaking through the rust dam in this bad pips and eventually leaking down to cause damage in the patch your drywall guy makes. This can be a call back as it was fine till you worked on it. If this pipe was just a vent, it did not have the proper slope to allow rain water to drain out and that caused it to pool water and rust through. Slow is smooth & smooth is fast.
TONS of value here! Thank you , @smarthome5513!
A "3-way" switch (on/on) is single-pole, double-throw (SPDT). A regular light switch (on/off) is single-pole, single-throw (SPST).
I'd use shallower cans if I were you. These days there are many options that aren't so deep and a pain in the you know what to fit. Lol
Why didn't you need to put some sort of grommet or protector in the wire holes in the can lights? Isn't that a sharp metal opening?
I used to run my custom pergola business out of a Prius, I used to called it tramformer that car could handle anything 😂
On trim did you notice that the Lutron LED plus dimmer switch leg wire needed to be on the other side? LOL.
I want to install Two-Duplex Outlets in a double-gang electrical box inside my 1st floor pantry with bi-fold doors, a 6 foot wide pantry. I want to route a new circuit to the basement panel box so I can put my microwave and toaster in the pantry and an outlet for future cabinet LED lighting inside the pantry later on. Do you use neodymium magnets or drill a skinny insulation support rod through the wood floor in the kitchen first to see where exactly you are between the two floors for finding a safe wire route? I live in North-West Indiana. If you're ever driving through the Schererville, Munster, St.John, area I'd love to get an estimate from you for the job. Thank you.
A ferret camera tool is great you can add them to your rods or fish rods and watch them on your phone as you move it around plus it gives you full view of the void spaces- Superrod is the UK company that does it it’s the equivalent of rack-e-tiers.
@@ElectricProAcademy oh no…. Hope you have better luck with the second time. Tools are nice but the justification is always does it allow you to do a better job, does it provide time efficiencies that the willingness to go above and beyond and investing in your staff Jefferson Electric is an excellent example of modeling such excellence for the electrical industry.
Power off at the switch and not the breaker? What if it was powered to the light and then to the switch? It's a shock waiting to happen.
Can you make elaborated video on how to pass CBSL for C10 after 4 years of experience. I mean what to study. What is examination center environment. Best reading materials (online/hard books). I am in CA Bay Area. Thanks
noticed you did not mark your white wire you used for a switch leg on wall switch, but awesome job at the end
I use a fat black sharpie to “paint” the wire.
200.7(C)(1)
@@ElectricProAcademy 👍
I don't understand why you continue using wire nuts in light fixtures when Wago 222- and 221-series connectors completely eliminate the fuss of connecting solid and stranded conductors.
They're also brilliant for creating pigtails in switch boxes when your conductor are too short.
@@ElectricProAcademy I think it's worth the shoulder savings. I'm 46 now and my body doesn't want to do the things it could 20 years ago. The less time I get to spend standing on a ladder with my hands outstretched over my head with a fixture balanced on my shoulder the better.
I don't typically use Wago nuts on receptacles and other high-current, high-KWH junctions and outlets (because they have higher internal resistance and they cost more) but on anything that I do overhead Wago 221s are a total no-brainer.
I will occasionally use them in receptacles and J-boxes but only in rework situations when the conductor is too short for a wire nut.
A great trick is you bend a coat hanger the put that into a little hole in the ceiling and twist it around in a circle and that will hit something if it’s within 8 inches of the tiny hole it would leave I have been using this trick for years and it works great
But what if the power is at the light in the ceiling and there is just a switch leg. The ceiling box will still be hot.
Why didn’t you use the versa bit down instead of up. I don’t get it.
Noticed you didn't mark the white wire as being a hot wire also on the single pole switch.
I just hung that round kitchen light in a master bedroom yesterday.
How come you just didn't use canless disc lights? Lot cheaper in material, lot easier and versatile to install(can install even with most obstuctions), same end result. Or am I missing some reasoning?
18:05 I'm surprised that you're not replacing these old wires.
Are there other than flat type ground screws, you looked like struggling there !!!
*gasp* the screws are horizontal 47:22!? Jk , awesome video, joel.
When coupling using two different size wires I prefer copper crimps or wagos and 3rd choice the ideal push ins 18 to 10 gauge I think I very really use them except on multi grounds because they are cheaper than wagos. I just started to use wagos or the ideal push ins when I seen Peterson electricle talk about having to isolate multi ground connections for testing was like ya having to untwist or decrimp multi wires is a pain. The ideal push ins are smaller than wagos and wirenuts so using them to extend shorter conductors in small space is easier (just like shark bites for plumbing I don't trust them fully only use where necessary or easy to get to)
@@ElectricProAcademy I stay away from push-in ones though Wago push-ins are very robust and high quality. I especially like lever connectors more expensive but wagos 221s are just as good as old twist and connect splices but big advantage is when doing continuity testing or insulation resistance testing they come into their own, the heat management is superb as well. Each has its advantages.
@@mathman0101 I dont think they do any sort of testing in the US ???
@@persona250 very rarely at residential level usually only when fault finding. Mainly continuity and insulation resistance more rarely. Testing is more likely in industrial settings when there are specific servicing and maintenance requirements on large motors inductive loads, transformers, and heating elements (resistive loads) and other large electrical equipment.
why not use the wafer LED lights here? Seems like installing the cans just to install an LED was extra work.
@@ElectricProAcademy great answer and very true.
im electrician but its my first time in abroad here at koror palau, honestly i dont know how to install 110v, i never encountered or never installed 110v, do you have a tutorial sir how to wire switches and outlets, and proper connections from panel board😢😢
It is the 21st century. Why the big cans? You can get great lights that are 3/4" thick these days.
I can send you a link of UL listed self tap ground screws that actually self tap and are 10-32. You can look them up, they are from Garvin Industries.
@@ElectricProAcademy Let me know if you see the link I posted
@@ElectricProAcademy I don't think UA-cam likes the links. I sent one and I don't see it in the comments and this happened to me before. I sent it again in you IG inbox a min ago.
About 49 minutes into the video the white wires used in the switch loop need to be reidentified per code and I did not notice that was done.
1:08:18 The AC bonding strip, copper or aluminum, may be bent either under or over the anti-short and terminated by means of "best practices".
From NEMA August 21, 2003:
During the termination of Type AC cables, the bonding strip is not terminated in the same manner as an equipment grounding conductor. The bonding strip is not an equipment-grounding conductor according to either UL or the NEC and it is not necessary for it to be terminated. The best practices for terminating the bonding strip based on many years of trade experience with Type AC Cables include:
(a) wrapping the bonding strip around the exterior of the cable armor, or
(b) laying the bonding strip straight against the exterior of the armor.
The bonding strip however may also be completely cut and removed from the end of the armor.
@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks. 🙂
It is basically a bridge to make sure the armor of the AC cable is electrically continuous. That's why MC cable's armor cannot be used as EGC and AC's can (as far as I remember).
@@illestofdemall13 Correct. There have been a number of incarnations of AC cable since its inception to the NEC in 1903. Prior to 1960, by manufacturer, the cable could be manufactured without a bond strip or with a 20, 18, or 16 awg bond strip. While grandfathered in as an EGC, they don't meet current standards and the circuits utilizing older AC should be upgraded.
@@donl1410 The old BX. I heard there were a lot of fires with that.
@@illestofdemall13 True. That's why I mentioned, "they don't meet current standards and the circuits utilizing older AC should be upgraded." The impedance of the circular clad armor and degradation of any connector connection could produce a heating effect in the armor from a ground fault, especially with a breaker that has an issue with fault clearing, such as a FPE. The overheated armor could cause ignition of near-by combustibles.
You could have made up those splices in that SG Wall box with Yellow Wing Tips instead of Reds !!
I ever get to have my house built I am going to insist that every single box be hard wired with it's own ground all the way back to the panel. Further insist that my main panel have separated grounds and neutrals.
I LOVE Klein NCV tester. Specifically NCVT3P Dual Range. I have 2 so far. I keep dropping one, and it still works, however I am not sure so I am constantly testing a known hot after I get no reading from the wires I'm working on. I killed one circuit and Klein said it was still hot, so I checked with an analog meter and it moved the needle but not significantly. I was never able to find out why that was happening but I accomplished what I was trying to do.
The last time I saw wire that looked like that (45:20) it was because the circuit didn't trip when it was suppose to and resulted the the wire heating up.
Why not use the newish can-less led recessed lights? Much easier to install.
Pro tip use 3/4 mud ring on 5/8 drywall.
I found two 20 amp breakers in my panel for the two garage circuits (lights & outlets) yet I verified that EVERYTHING was wired with 14 gauge wire. I swapped the breakers out for 15 amp breakers to be safe. My home was built in 1972 and the garage in 1973. Everything run in rigid conduit with the exception of 2 lights and one outlet I have added and run Romex as it's easiest to fish in a finished wall.
However my Father has a home built in 2018. The ENTIRE house is comprised of 20 amp breakers, yet from what I remember I saw a mixture of 12 and 14 gauge wire (Romex) being used as I replaced a switch in his bathroom so he could have separate fan and light control. What gives? Home was built by a large local contractor and was NOT a DIY build!
By the way all of us are in Lake County in the northwestern part of Indiana.
i LOVE being a globalist, in fact the MORE people consider themselves along with their home country Citizens of the World the better, a shrinking world i.e. because of the interweb etc. is a change in humankind for the better, all information available to all people all the time
Your company needs to get an oscillating cutter for remodels. You’ll thank yourself later.
I prefer Robinson or pozi
Dang Man ! STOP using a Box Cutter Utility Razor Knife to remove the outer jacket of the NM-B Romex Cable and get yourself one of the NM-B Rome Cable Strippers before you cut and damage the insulation of the conductors inside the jacket !! I always cringe when I see someone using a Box Cutter Razor Blade Utility Knife to remove the outer sheathing !!
The UK uses a lot of all in one fixtures which then requires a certified electrician out there to basically change a lightbulb if the LEDs go out. Because technically the homeowner shouldn't be doing electrical and there's all sorts of safety nonsenseish paperwork stuff. I think the screw in lightbulb socket is the way to go you can make that permanent well the bulb is interchanged easily by anybody safely.
You DON'T need to pre-twist the conductors when using Wire Nuts ! The Wire Nut does that when you twist them on !!
@@ElectricProAcademy damn right. I changed out a bunch of lights in a blimp hangar and every splice that I had to touch (all but 2) fell apart when I removed the wire nut. nuts to those "production electricians"
That 1st box you worked on looks nasty.
hey Joel, at the 27 minute mark where you guys were trying to go through the block, here's a handy trick to try:
we would have a string and tie a screw or nail onto it for a weight, drop it down the hole in the block from the top so there was plenty of string, and then hook it from the bottom hole with a simple piece of copper wire with a hook on it. you may need to bend the copper wire and root it around to hook, but it's very simple and works well.
wire nuts...really? I thought you're going to deliver best products and quality. Okay, WE 🇩🇪 are used to highest quality, cost three times more.
Most new led lights don’t have. Ground wire.
19:00 No Wagos?!
When adding new wire...instead of going to the unfinished basement, why not try to remove the baseboard and cut the drywall just below the baseboard and then drill through the studs and run your wire.
As I am sure you know, make sure the wire will not be compromised by drywall screws or brad nails when reinstalling both the drywall and the baseboard.
As for the ceiling, I think I would prefer a hole saw method ( mentioned below by Loren Rickley)
I enjoy your videos and it is much easier on everyone to reaffix drywall and baseboard where no one sees the cut issue and only involves 1 person. Money/Time and labor as you always say, "Slow and Smooth, means Efficient."
I hope this is an old video, because it should not be -10 right now lol
Brother you need a electric screw driver like the dewalt 8 volt.
A 5/16 screwdriver would be handy
Read the lid on your high hat only 4 #12 awg. So Box fill is only 9 in. (2) 14 awg is 10 in so your over the box fill on your high hat. That shit is crazy.
Are you using the white wire as the switch leg ? No no no code is you need a neutral in your switch box. ARTICLE 404.2(c)
ten times easier to push some string or 22/2 down through the ko snake up with a hook , less than a ,minute with two guys.
At 21:21, a 5/16 nut driver would have been usefull...
Wish they would get rid of slot screws.
Amen!
Oh I forgot to say bend it to an L SHAPE first before you put it in the ceiling
And if you do hit something it’s no big deal because you can’t even see the hole that you put in the ceiling or wall.
And if you do hit something it’s no big deal because you can’t even see the hole that you put in the ceiling or wall.
Too short wire is most expensive
Why is there a dead baby on the counter?
8:30 cloth wire 💀
Dude can I buy you a van please? I feel humiliated FOR you for driving a prius. Especially a company prius.
Not opposed! 😅
@@ElectricProAcademy 🤣
I’m a poorly labeled guy. Lol
@@ElectricProAcademy what model # and where did you get your torque wrench ?
If you ever need any old school advice about any of the construction your more than welcome to call me and I'll be more than happy to give it for free I'm retiredish hahaha! LoL it's just Joist if plural it's Joist lol I am sorry it just sounds funny with the s you added hahaha
I don't know were you gentlemen are working I've moved from California to here in Oklahoma my god in heaven I thought I had seen everything lol
You should have used Wago 222's wire connectors instead of wire Nuts inside the junction box of those recessed can lights !! Wagos take up less space in a junction box when compared to wire nuts , especially on those recessed can light junction boxes ! You don't use '' used wire nuts '' ??? I have for years and never had a problem with them ! Boy, You '' nitpic '' everything too much !!
This dude is a used car salesman.
😂
No way you pulled up to a job in a company Prius with a 6ft ladder. Seems unprofessional.
😂 Correct. I am no longer responsible for that type of work. Mostly estimating and sales, with some little service work if the company needs it.
@@ElectricProAcademy haha alright boss you get the pass then
Shouldn't that white conductor be identified as hot or ungrounded ...just a piece of tape dude
Yep! White wires used as ungrounded conductors need to be reidentified. Sorry if I missed one! Time stamp?
48:36
Has a retired electrician I don't agree with all you do. The music sucks, but you're looking for more advertisement. Done.
You live in Houses? Really, come to Germany to see REAL Houses!
Still using large lighting cans like that??