X-bracing is primarily used to solidify the floor in order to minimize movement or bouncing when walking on the floor. The bracing ties all the individual floor joists into one unit. So when someone crosses a room that walking load is now shared by parallel joists that are connected via the x-braces. Removing x-braces diminishes load sharing and increases the likelihood of floor movement. If you need to remove an x-brace to, as in your case, install a can, as best practice, you should replace the x-brace as close to the original location as possible.
Laser is better because the wall can be wavy sometimes. Your cans might look wavy if you measure from the wall. I will measure off the wall for the ends and connect the middle ones with the laser to make sure it's a perfect straight line.
You are so right concerning securing permits. Was told maybe 40 years ago when you perform paid work their is a lifelong liability that goes with it. Do you can indeed get sued 20, 30 or more years later. Having a permit and inspection protects you. Was also told many moons ago to save ALL of your old code books in case one of the numerous ambulance chasing lawyers attempts to sue you.
Not sure why anyone still uses can lights. Wafer lights are easy and look better. I would add a 2x4 blocking at the lowest point of the joist as close to the can light as possible to restore solidity. Also see the panel has too many tandem breakers for code. Love the video and your attention to detail.
Because they can charge more on material markup. Cabs are old news and that is the only reason I can see what they would not talk the customer into wafers that are cheaper and better, can change the colors by just pulling down the xfmr, and not have to buy new retrofits
You still need to replace the it, If removed it still needs to be replaced because it also deals with the flex of the floor and carrying load. Code from my understand is within 6 to 12" from the old bracing needs to be place back.
I would mention how the holes through the studs were drilled opposite from stud to stud. Makes for easier wire pulling. Thanks for the vids. Been around since 1992.
You have to staple within 12 inches of the box but you can have a maximum of 18 inches of cable from the box to the staple. This allows for a loop of extra cable just in case. "334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties listed and identified for securement and support, or straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 ½ ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every cable entry into enclosures such as outlet boxes, junction boxes, cabinets, or fittings. The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.). Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge."
So, to clarify, if I have a plastic box I'm running nmc into, and there's not provision for a clamp at the entry point (or even if there is), I need to staple the wire within 12" on the flat side. Correct?
@@SirBrass If there is a clamp then you need to staple within 12" of the box and if there is a knockout with no clamp (some single gang boxes just have pieces you knock out with no clamp) then you need to staple within 8" of the box. Always on flat side.
@@SirBrass No problem. You can leave a little excess cable between the staple and where it enters the box, just in case you need to move the box or pull more cable into the box. The maximum length of cable between the box and staple is 18".
I don't use Paddle Bits , aka Spade BIts , when I'm drilling holes through wooden framing members ! I use Irwin Nail Eaters 1/2'' and 3/4 '' Wood Auger Bits ! Always have and always will ! Been in the trade for over 55 years !!
TFW you think you need an exorcist, but actually need an electrician. Your house isn't haunted by your grandpa's ghost, it's haunted by the decaying extension cord he ran through the walls to the dishwasher in the 70s.
At 21:58 - I've noticed wafer lights of the same quality (as measured by CRI and R9 values) are normally less expensive as compared to a can light. If DIYing I'd assume the labor to install is not a factor.
I am curious on how you determined placement of the can lights. I have a room in my unfinished basement that is lit by four bare bulb receptacles like this customer had to begin with. I want to change over to can lights but am not sure how I would space them out.
I am a symmetry guy, so measure the wall and divide by the amount of lights plus 1. So an 18’ wall that has 2 rows of can lights would be 18/3 = 6’, if the room is 30’ and you’re installing 5 lights down the long edge, 30/6(5 lights + 1) = 5’. Total 10 lights. First one is 5’ off the short wall and 6’ off the long wall.
@@AdamS-lh2ug thank you that makes sense. I had heard many years ago one had to account for the ceiling height in determining how big an area each can would illuminate, thus my uncertainty.
Joist cross bracing X bracing is there for a purpose, would always moves no matter if it's old or new material, you can relocate the X bracing next to the can installing this way your still keeping the stability of the floor joist and its function. 24:11 2
I don't believe you guys in the states typically use these, but for years now as a general contractor in Canada i've used "Illume Essential 4-inch LED White Recessed Panel Lights." You can get them either from an electrical supplier or home depot. Just run your 14/2 wire to the various light locations and leave a bit of excess in case. After paint, drywall etc come back and drill a 4-1/4" hole in the ceiling. Run your 14/2 into the junction box that it comes with, tuck it up into the drywalled ceiling or drop-in. Then the butterfly clips lock on to the drywall & bob's your uncle. Depending on which type of light you get, you can even set them for 3,000, 4,000 or 5,000 lumens. It'll cut your install time by at least 50%. If you're query about it, you can even run all your wires and then work with the contractor to arrange to come back after the ceiling drywall is up. That way you can cut your holes and pull your wires through making sure every thing is where it needs to be. Worth looking into
some insurance companies frown on having any other brand breakers in the panel , there should only be Challenger breakers in there or a breaker that's been tested by U.L. to work in a Challenger box such as Cutler-Hammer CL style . Cutler-Hammer BR's will fit in a Challenger but are not U.L. approved
Another thing about permits on remodels or additions - some jurisdictions review old work if in the future a permit is pulled ... so if you did that job without a permit and then it 3 years you had to pull a permit for a main panel replacement - the inspector pulls the specs on the house and sees the basement was originally unfinished - now he looks at the permit history and sees that no permits were pulled.. now there is a problem - because the sheetrock has covered the wiring without inspection the inspector can do a couple of things - call a code enforcement officer who can fine the homeowner - then make them purchase the permits and for electrical the inspector can make a contractor expose the key places that need inspection. I picked up a apartment complex that was being converted to condominiums one time and the previous electrician was trying to pass the job off as maintenance- he was not a master electrician and was not a contractor so he got removed from the job - the inspector had me drill 4 inch holes at every outlet and fixture so he could check for wire securement... so the owner of the project had to spend more money in the long run than if he had hired a licensed electrical contractor... another time that will bite a homeowner is when the house sells. If there has been a remodel or addition without permits it can hold up your house sale ... and might cost the homeowner some back property taxes if living square footage was added...
Cursory search and I discovered Challenger is a brand of panel that has had recalls and safety issues, and should be replaced. Oddly it was a panel that never clearly had its own breakers, or breakers that may have come with the panel were unbranded.
From everything I've read, the breakers in challenger panels were the issue. The actual bus bars were perfectly fine, and simply replacing them with Eaton BR type breakers makes them as safe as any modern Eaton panel.
i watched few your videos and i ahve idea...try to watch some videof of artisian electricians (UK based), maybe you can learn some stuff about safety and get few tips for tools and other stuff (maybe put fire sealant to ducts from exterior to box instead offibre glass, much tiedier)..these guys are really good
Sorry, should have watched till the end before asking. Can you provide the make and model for the plate you mentioned for the wafer lights to snap into for a new install?
I usually U use a stretched string from one end to the other, maybe you should considered doing that next time, lasers are good but a string is most cost effective and is faster and safe, I can install those 10 can lights in 30 mins once my string and all obstructions are out of the way..!
1. Should not the illumination requirements of a space be calculated professionally and not just guessed whimsically by eyeball? 2. Why not install a 20 amp circuit, especially where there are eight receptacles involved? Looks like 15 amp could get overloaded quickly. 3. Hopefully used commercial grade receptacles.
Have you guys ever considered low voltage lighting for u're customers? If you ever need someone to do a low voltage lighting for you I'm for hire but in not cheap...lol
24:40 Pre twist.... The wire nut will get this done also. No debate from me. I was taught to twist a junction of wires to the point that if that wire nut comes off/fails, the junction will hold. I have pretwisted large groups of wires. 5 or less, the wire nut will get er done.
17:39 A waste of labor? Making sure your holes are all level takes just a few minutes of extra time, especially if you have a laser handy. Even if all you have is a sharpie and a tape measure all you have to do is walk along the wall and mark each stud. Or just cut a piece of lumber to the right height and mark along its top. Even large rooms can be marked in a minute or three. The obvious benefit is that it looks neater, which is one step closer to godliness. It's also easier to pull through a straight line than a crooked one. But there is another, less obvious downstream benefit: If slab insulation is being used, the installer will be able to score his panels at the same height for every cavity instead of having to measure each one. Sure, it's not YOUR labour saving but it doing so shows attention to detail and consideration towards your fellow tradefolk.
@@ElectricProAcademy Sure thing. My view stems from my own OCD to have straight lines because they're easy to follow and easy to understand, but courtesy to the other trades is a useful cover story. :)
Only issue I have and it’s probably personal is Jefferson Electric making their employees put the wear and tear on their drills to bore holes for the Romex. Hole Hawgs have always been company provided to me with every company I’ve been with in MN along with the bits to go into them. Save time in he process too. There are companies that make you purchase your own “basic,” tools, obviously changes per company. Edited for spelling.
WHY didn't you go with the New Style of Recessed LED LIght Fixtures, the ones that don't have those big bulky metal Junction Boxes attached to the Can Light Mounting Joist Brackets ! The new one have a plastic box that the NM-B Romex goes into for the connections.
You are 100% correct. Challenger panels are also in the same "no-no" category as FPE panels, but the big difference is that the original Challenger breakers are what burn up. So, replacing them with the Eatons (and to my knowledge, those are the ONLY breakers rated to be in Challenger panels since Eaton bought Challenger and reverse-engineered the Challenger stuff) is an easy way to extend the usable life of the panel, so long as the stabs aren't cooked from the aforementioned bad Challenger breakers.
The code of 334.30 is a little confusing but very specific. The staple must be no more than 12 inches from a box, but the length of the cable between that staple and entry of the box may be up to 18". That's for up to 6 inches of service slack.
@@aaron74 Im looking at 334.30 as we speak in the 2020 NEC and i dont see any where in 334.30 securing and supporting where it mentions 18". Can you please cite where you see this code. Ive always thought it was simply 12". an extra 6" is a great idea.
@@SeanLeonDrumz The 2020 NEC: 334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties listed and identified for securement and support, or straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4.5 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every cable entry into enclosures such as outlet boxes, junction boxes, cabinets, or fittings. _The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.)._ Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge. Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.
@@aaron74 Interesting. My NEC paperback does not have this section " The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.)."
That's pretty weird you don't have it in your copy. You should contact NFPA; maybe they can send you a new copy. You could always make slack even before the language was added to 334.30 because there was never language in code expressly forbidding it. It's always been best practice in my opinion.
Hvac guys should have installed the supply and return trunks a little away from each other. It looks like they are contacting each other. At least give it a 1" gap.
20:36 YEP. I cut out 30+ 6" cardboard circles and mounted to ceilings where wafer LEDs will potentially be going in our remodel. LIFE saver, marriage saver, (not really, she's STUCK with me...).
wagos are 3 times the price of wire nuts (10 cents a piece vs 30 cents a piece). when you buy 50 thousand wire nuts per year that makes a huge difference for a business. wire nuts are fine...
Used pressure connectors my entire 50 year career with no problems. No such thing called a wire nut in the NEC. Yep that & $5 will get you a star bucks coffee Have used pressure connectors in the absolute worst environments from -40 degree freezers to hot rooms, on crushers, vibrating screens ,& shakers, daily high pressure wash downs, equipment that got water logged, slaughterhouse, stockyards, salt filled hide cellars etc.
I have asked that question here before, so passing along the answer I got :) For home users (e.g. me) Wagos are a great product, but with the amount of complete rewires that Jefferson does a year, the cost difference becomes too much.
Breakers ain't tested to the panel, is funky....and being last one in the panel, it is now your FAULT, when something goes wrong. Time to change the panel
uk viewer here, watched this at random and it is much more detailed than other videos i've seen but why aren't there any grommets on the can lights where the wires enter? you couldn't get away with there here, same with no sleevingo n the earth wires, no one has ever been able to tell me why that isn't a thing in the states thanks
I HATE LED lights. They're fine for SOME things, for some flashlights, for SOME indicators, but not for everything. Especially not lighting. It seems like there is always flickering and it seems I get headaches and nauseous with LED and Fluorescent lighting. I say that 14/2 should never be used. I use 12/2 with ground and 20 amps sockets. Even if it's a 15 amps circuit breaker, it will make the circuit safer. If outlets share a circuit, the first outlet should be a GFCI and everything else downstream protected by that one. Regardless if wet or dry. Always go above and beyond what code demands. I also hate plastic boxes. I used to do my own electrical work. I am no longer physically able to do it, so I always insist my electrician uses metal boxes. One would think I have stock in the steel industry, but metal boxes are so much better. If I ever take charge of NEC I will ban plastic and nylon boxes, and I will ban 14 gauge or smaller wire when it comes to someone's home. I would even say that ground wires should be insulated with green, to make sure that a bare ground doesn't come into contact with something live. One could argue that it will blow, but I argue that if something is not properly grounded, everything that comes into contact with that bare wire is also energized too. As for floor joists, I call them rafters. One pet peeve is the excess of wire an electrician will pull, and then they cut off like 3 or 4 feet, then an additional several inches. Seems like a waste of wire and a customer's money, as I am sure that doesn't come out of the electrician's or the company's pocket. As for wire twists, I've discovered push connectors and Wago Lever nuts. I prefer the Wago lever nuts. I am not using "Wago" generically. They're better than other lever nuts and I find them easier and more secure than the push Ideal In-Sure. It's just so much easier, more secure, especially when splicing solid to stranded. I've given a lot of thought to the tester you used at the end. There are a few improvements I wish Klein would consider. Rechargeable battery that recharges by plugging it in, and automatically stops charging when batteries are charged, and detection of a false or bootleg ground. Life has killed the dream I dreamed of being an electrician. Fibromyalgia though rare in men, is just as horrible. I went to trade school. All they did is tell me stuff I already knew. I don't know how I knew it, I just did. Taking apart broken TV sets and stereos when I was a kid, not realizing a cathode tube or capacitor could kill me, but I had enough sense at 8 years old to stay away from certain parts. I fixed my Grandmother's Motorola Hi-Fi that a service guy could not fix. Vacuum tubes weren't available then so I couldn't make the radio play but I had the record player working. My Grandma was impressed. I took my Dad's drill apart just to see how it worked and couldn't get it back together. He was really mad about that for some reason. (Not like he used it.) And Mother got mad when I took apart her vacuum cleaner, because she did use it. Anyway, thanks for posting these videos. I love watching them and think about how I would do it, since I can't physically do it anymore.
I see a BIG Code Violation ! And that would be Clearance Space in front and on the sides of that Main Panel and whoever wired that panel and basement, VERY SLOPPY Work and poor craftsmanship and NOT to CODE !!!
Looks like it might have enough clearance to me. I wasn't there with a tape measure myself so hard to say. The National Electrical Code [NEC 110.26 (A)(1&2)] requires a clear area for access and working in front of an electric panel that is 2.5 feet (30”) wide, 3 feet (36”) deep, and 6.5 feet (78”) high for a regular residential 120/240-volt panel. NEC 110.26(A)(2) states that “the width of the working space in front of the electrical equipment shall be the width of the equipment or 762 mm (30 in.), whichever is greater.” In addition, this work space shall permit at least a 90-degree opening of the panelboard door. The work is sloppy, though.
@@illestofdemall13 ; One is NOT suppose to clutter or store misc. items in front or around the required working space of a Electrical Panel ! The Home Owners need to clear the area around the panel ! I'm not going to argue the issue with you because I know that I'm right and you are wrong ! I can state this because I'm a Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor with over 55 years in the trade and I know the Codes !!
@@BearStar1 Calm down bud. I was referring to the working space. Customer putting crap in their basement has zero to do with the electrician's initial installation. Just because you're older than someone else don't make you right all the time. I've been right and my boss has been wrong at times and he's a Master Electrician. I also know the codes. I need more hours before I can become a journeyman.
I am bothered by the fact that you were unsure about the use of Square D breakers in that panel. As a professional you should KNOW FOR A FACT that Square D breakers are listed for use ONLY WITH SQUARE D PANELS! Square D also does nor permit ANY other brand of breakers in their panels. This is a major fail on your part in an otherwise excellent video.
@@KameraShy Wrong, Schneider does NOT approve of Homeline being used in any other panel. Now, other makers may say that HOM can be used in THEIR panel, but again, the maker of the breaker says not allowed.
X-bracing is primarily used to solidify the floor in order to minimize movement or bouncing when walking on the floor. The bracing ties all the individual floor joists into one unit. So when someone crosses a room that walking load is now shared by parallel joists that are connected via the x-braces. Removing x-braces diminishes load sharing and increases the likelihood of floor movement. If you need to remove an x-brace to, as in your case, install a can, as best practice, you should replace the x-brace as close to the original location as possible.
Pro tip. Thanks. I've been dropping those like I dropped 3rd period french.
Laser is better because the wall can be wavy sometimes. Your cans might look wavy if you measure from the wall. I will measure off the wall for the ends and connect the middle ones with the laser to make sure it's a perfect straight line.
Iam poor so I've historically gotten 2 measurements one at both ends and pulled a string
@@johnnymalicoat754 That method works great.
Really appreciate your detail-oriented nature, helps tremendously with learning despite not having as much experience
Love this channel. So nice to have electrical content in the state that I live in. Great work Joel.
You are so right concerning securing permits. Was told maybe 40 years ago when you perform paid work their is a lifelong liability that goes with it. Do you can indeed get sued 20, 30 or more years later. Having a permit and inspection protects you. Was also told many moons ago to save ALL of your old code books in case one of the numerous ambulance chasing lawyers attempts to sue you.
Love your videos. It's like I'm at work but I'm not the one working, but I love doing electrical work, which is why I watch. Strange.
Thank you so much for these videos! I feel so lucky I came across your channel can’t believe how much knowledge you drop. Thanks again Joel!
Not sure why anyone still uses can lights. Wafer lights are easy and look better. I would add a 2x4 blocking at the lowest point of the joist as close to the can light as possible to restore solidity. Also see the panel has too many tandem breakers for code. Love the video and your attention to detail.
Because they can charge more on material markup. Cabs are old news and that is the only reason I can see what they would not talk the customer into wafers that are cheaper and better, can change the colors by just pulling down the xfmr, and not have to buy new retrofits
And it has Square D tandems, which are not listed for use in ANY panel other than Square D.
You still need to replace the it, If removed it still needs to be replaced because it also deals with the flex of the floor and carrying load. Code from my understand is within 6 to 12" from the old bracing needs to be place back.
Great video, Joel 👍 How about Arc-fault protection for the finished basement?
I would mention how the holes through the studs were drilled opposite from stud to stud. Makes for easier wire pulling. Thanks for the vids. Been around since 1992.
You have to staple within 12 inches of the box but you can have a maximum of 18 inches of cable from the box to the staple. This allows for a loop of extra cable just in case. "334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties listed and identified for securement and support, or straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 ½ ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every cable entry into enclosures such as outlet boxes, junction boxes, cabinets, or fittings. The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.). Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge."
@@ElectricProAcademy You're welcome.
So, to clarify, if I have a plastic box I'm running nmc into, and there's not provision for a clamp at the entry point (or even if there is), I need to staple the wire within 12" on the flat side. Correct?
@@SirBrass If there is a clamp then you need to staple within 12" of the box and if there is a knockout with no clamp (some single gang boxes just have pieces you knock out with no clamp) then you need to staple within 8" of the box. Always on flat side.
@@illestofdemall13 awesome, thanks!
@@SirBrass No problem. You can leave a little excess cable between the staple and where it enters the box, just in case you need to move the box or pull more cable into the box. The maximum length of cable between the box and staple is 18".
I don't use Paddle Bits , aka Spade BIts , when I'm drilling holes through wooden framing members ! I use Irwin Nail Eaters 1/2'' and 3/4 '' Wood Auger Bits ! Always have and always will ! Been in the trade for over 55 years !!
Augers always make nice clean holes through studs and joists
Anytime I watch a ghost video, and they talk about lights flickering, I automatically resort to it being a loose nuetral lol
TFW you think you need an exorcist, but actually need an electrician.
Your house isn't haunted by your grandpa's ghost, it's haunted by the decaying extension cord he ran through the walls to the dishwasher in the 70s.
At 21:58 - I've noticed wafer lights of the same quality (as measured by CRI and R9 values) are normally less expensive as compared to a can light. If DIYing I'd assume the labor to install is not a factor.
I am curious on how you determined placement of the can lights. I have a room in my unfinished basement that is lit by four bare bulb receptacles like this customer had to begin with. I want to change over to can lights but am not sure how I would space them out.
I am a symmetry guy, so measure the wall and divide by the amount of lights plus 1. So an 18’ wall that has 2 rows of can lights would be 18/3 = 6’, if the room is 30’ and you’re installing 5 lights down the long edge, 30/6(5 lights + 1) = 5’. Total 10 lights. First one is 5’ off the short wall and 6’ off the long wall.
@@AdamS-lh2ug thank you that makes sense. I had heard many years ago one had to account for the ceiling height in determining how big an area each can would illuminate, thus my uncertainty.
Joist cross bracing X bracing is there for a purpose, would always moves no matter if it's old or new material, you can relocate the X bracing next to the can installing this way your still keeping the stability of the floor joist and its function.
24:11 2
Lmao you never got that phone call because you already planned to keep it from happening before hand. Good job.
I don't believe you guys in the states typically use these, but for years now as a general contractor in Canada i've used "Illume Essential 4-inch LED White Recessed Panel Lights." You can get them either from an electrical supplier or home depot. Just run your 14/2 wire to the various light locations and leave a bit of excess in case. After paint, drywall etc come back and drill a 4-1/4" hole in the ceiling. Run your 14/2 into the junction box that it comes with, tuck it up into the drywalled ceiling or drop-in. Then the butterfly clips lock on to the drywall & bob's your uncle. Depending on which type of light you get, you can even set them for 3,000, 4,000 or 5,000 lumens.
It'll cut your install time by at least 50%. If you're query about it, you can even run all your wires and then work with the contractor to arrange to come back after the ceiling drywall is up. That way you can cut your holes and pull your wires through making sure every thing is where it needs to be.
Worth looking into
some insurance companies frown on having any other brand breakers in the panel , there should only be Challenger breakers in there or a breaker that's been tested by U.L. to work in a Challenger box such as Cutler-Hammer CL style . Cutler-Hammer BR's will fit in a Challenger but are not U.L. approved
People still uses recess cans in new construction? All we use nowadays are canless recess lights
Another thing about permits on remodels or additions - some jurisdictions review old work if in the future a permit is pulled ... so if you did that job without a permit and then it 3 years you had to pull a permit for a main panel replacement - the inspector pulls the specs on the house and sees the basement was originally unfinished - now he looks at the permit history and sees that no permits were pulled.. now there is a problem - because the sheetrock has covered the wiring without inspection the inspector can do a couple of things - call a code enforcement officer who can fine the homeowner - then make them purchase the permits and for electrical the inspector can make a contractor expose the key places that need inspection. I picked up a apartment complex that was being converted to condominiums one time and the previous electrician was trying to pass the job off as maintenance- he was not a master electrician and was not a contractor so he got removed from the job - the inspector had me drill 4 inch holes at every outlet and fixture so he could check for wire securement... so the owner of the project had to spend more money in the long run than if he had hired a licensed electrical contractor... another time that will bite a homeowner is when the house sells. If there has been a remodel or addition without permits it can hold up your house sale ... and might cost the homeowner some back property taxes if living square footage was added...
AFCI GFCI are mandated for living spaces in residential, for most everything, even 240V electric drier....not wet but DAMP.
Cursory search and I discovered Challenger is a brand of panel that has had recalls and safety issues, and should be replaced. Oddly it was a panel that never clearly had its own breakers, or breakers that may have come with the panel were unbranded.
From everything I've read, the breakers in challenger panels were the issue. The actual bus bars were perfectly fine, and simply replacing them with Eaton BR type breakers makes them as safe as any modern Eaton panel.
You also failed to call out the Square D tandems, which are NOT listed for use in a panel other than Square D.
I see you got an actual hammer for hammering. Good job.
We take the nails off and just use dry wall screws to put those cans up. We use bx cable as well, which is harder than romex
why did you install huge metal cans for a tiny LED light? i mounted blue circle box and the same light for that.
do you guys not use the new 1/2'' slime line pot lights?
i watched few your videos and i ahve idea...try to watch some videof of artisian electricians (UK based), maybe you can learn some stuff about safety and get few tips for tools and other stuff (maybe put fire sealant to ducts from exterior to box instead offibre glass, much tiedier)..these guys are really good
What do you think about the new wafer style LED lights?
Sorry, should have watched till the end before asking. Can you provide the make and model for the plate you mentioned for the wafer lights to snap into for a new install?
Nice job, thanks..
I usually U use a stretched string from one end to the other, maybe you should considered doing that next time, lasers are good but a string is most cost effective and is faster and safe, I can install those 10 can lights in 30 mins once my string and all obstructions are out of the way..!
1. Should not the illumination requirements of a space be calculated professionally and not just guessed whimsically by eyeball?
2. Why not install a 20 amp circuit, especially where there are eight receptacles involved? Looks like 15 amp could get overloaded quickly.
3. Hopefully used commercial grade receptacles.
18:10 Confusion through nonspecificity. I LIKE IT! Not a big fan of confusion or not having a common definition of terms, communication cannot happen.
Have you guys ever considered low voltage lighting for u're customers? If you ever need someone to do a low voltage lighting for you I'm for hire but in not cheap...lol
24:40 Pre twist.... The wire nut will get this done also. No debate from me. I was taught to twist a junction of wires to the point that if that wire nut comes off/fails, the junction will hold. I have pretwisted large groups of wires. 5 or less, the wire nut will get er done.
Why Jefferson ElectriC? Why not make the N in Jefferson large as well and make the logo symmetrical? Just curious if there is a reason.
Jesus Christ maybe?
17:39 A waste of labor? Making sure your holes are all level takes just a few minutes of extra time, especially if you have a laser handy. Even if all you have is a sharpie and a tape measure all you have to do is walk along the wall and mark each stud. Or just cut a piece of lumber to the right height and mark along its top. Even large rooms can be marked in a minute or three. The obvious benefit is that it looks neater, which is one step closer to godliness. It's also easier to pull through a straight line than a crooked one.
But there is another, less obvious downstream benefit:
If slab insulation is being used, the installer will be able to score his panels at the same height for every cavity instead of having to measure each one. Sure, it's not YOUR labour saving but it doing so shows attention to detail and consideration towards your fellow tradefolk.
@@ElectricProAcademy Sure thing. My view stems from my own OCD to have straight lines because they're easy to follow and easy to understand, but courtesy to the other trades is a useful cover story. :)
Will an inspector fail your work if he sees violations that a previous electrician made?
In our jurisdiction they will if it's pertinent to the job you were hired for. We've heard of AHJs being more or less strict in other regions.
Only issue I have and it’s probably personal is Jefferson Electric making their employees put the wear and tear on their drills to bore holes for the Romex. Hole Hawgs have always been company provided to me with every company I’ve been with in MN along with the bits to go into them. Save time in he process too. There are companies that make you purchase your own “basic,” tools, obviously changes per company.
Edited for spelling.
@@ElectricProAcademy Kind of like how many chefs that work at restaurants use their own knives, not ones owned by the restaurant lol
WHY didn't you go with the New Style of Recessed LED LIght Fixtures, the ones that don't have those big bulky metal Junction Boxes attached to the Can Light Mounting Joist Brackets ! The new one have a plastic box that the NM-B Romex goes into for the connections.
If you watched the video you'd know his reasoning.
It's definitely the approach I'd take... those big cans are obsolete. The wafer lights are lightweight and trim perfectly to drywall
Isn't Eaton BR the only acceptable modern replacement for challenger panels? I'm fairly certain all those square d breakers are no Bueno.
You are 100% correct. Challenger panels are also in the same "no-no" category as FPE panels, but the big difference is that the original Challenger breakers are what burn up. So, replacing them with the Eatons (and to my knowledge, those are the ONLY breakers rated to be in Challenger panels since Eaton bought Challenger and reverse-engineered the Challenger stuff) is an easy way to extend the usable life of the panel, so long as the stabs aren't cooked from the aforementioned bad Challenger breakers.
Cutler-Hammer CL style would be the top choice , BR is an acceptable (sometimes) second choice
Square D Homeline will fit anything that a BR does , Square D QO is not an interchangeable breaker
I like this guy
Thought you were using 20 amp circuit
Ive heard experienced tradesmen referring to every framing member as a 2x4... Im not sure how thats even possible.
At least call it "2 by". That's what I usually hear. Just means some random framing member, whether stud or joist.
@@aaron74 yeah, that what I call it too
At 7:15 - I don't get why a homeowner would not remove a broken bulb. This is as easy and simple as as it gets.
Same homeowner who didn't move the crap in front of the panel despite knowing they had electricians coming into to run new lights and outlets.
Romex needs to be supported within 12" of a box not 18" NEC 334.30
The code of 334.30 is a little confusing but very specific. The staple must be no more than 12 inches from a box, but the length of the cable between that staple and entry of the box may be up to 18". That's for up to 6 inches of service slack.
@@aaron74 Im looking at 334.30 as we speak in the 2020 NEC and i dont see any where in 334.30 securing and supporting where it mentions 18". Can you please cite where you see this code. Ive always thought it was simply 12". an extra 6" is a great idea.
@@SeanLeonDrumz The 2020 NEC:
334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties listed and identified for securement and support, or straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4.5 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every cable entry into enclosures such as outlet boxes, junction boxes, cabinets, or fittings. _The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.)._ Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.
Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.
@@aaron74 Interesting. My NEC paperback does not have this section " The cable length between the cable entry and the closest cable support shall not exceed 450 mm (18 in.)."
That's pretty weird you don't have it in your copy. You should contact NFPA; maybe they can send you a new copy. You could always make slack even before the language was added to 334.30 because there was never language in code expressly forbidding it. It's always been best practice in my opinion.
Re: Leaving the outlet covers off...isn't there a safety concern with this? It would be easy to reach the energized portions. Stupid, but easy.
Cut the holes for wires higher up in the floor joice
oh no you had to use your specialized hammer not your new hammer. hahahahahah
😅
How about you shoot a video where you show:
- ZE, ZS testing
- Earth testing
- Line continuity testing
- Line loop testing
- Voltage drop testing
Hvac guys should have installed the supply and return trunks a little away from each other. It looks like they are contacting each other. At least give it a 1" gap.
20:36 YEP. I cut out 30+ 6" cardboard circles and mounted to ceilings where wafer LEDs will potentially be going in our remodel. LIFE saver, marriage saver, (not really, she's STUCK with me...).
Scared the crap out of me with that light bulb.
Diagnostic - then plan - then estimate.
Not a Wago fan?
wagos are 3 times the price of wire nuts (10 cents a piece vs 30 cents a piece). when you buy 50 thousand wire nuts per year that makes a huge difference for a business. wire nuts are fine...
Used pressure connectors my entire 50 year career with no problems. No such thing called a wire nut in the NEC. Yep that & $5 will get you a star bucks coffee Have used pressure connectors in the absolute worst environments from -40 degree freezers to hot rooms, on crushers, vibrating screens ,& shakers, daily high pressure wash downs, equipment that got water logged, slaughterhouse, stockyards, salt filled hide cellars etc.
Wago are overpriced and don’t make as good of a connection as properly twisting wires and using a wire nut
Feel free to dump your money on Wago’s.
I have asked that question here before, so passing along the answer I got :)
For home users (e.g. me) Wagos are a great product, but with the amount of complete rewires that Jefferson does a year, the cost difference becomes too much.
Breakers ain't tested to the panel, is funky....and being last one in the panel, it is now your FAULT, when something goes wrong. Time to change the panel
Why even use the wafer bracket? You should be able to come back after drywall, drill your holes, reach up and grab the wire.
In new construction you are required to install brackets!
uk viewer here, watched this at random and it is much more detailed than other videos i've seen
but
why aren't there any grommets on the can lights where the wires enter? you couldn't get away with there here, same with no sleevingo n the earth wires, no one has ever been able to tell me why that isn't a thing in the states
thanks
You need a microphone my guy. The audio levels are all messed up making this very hard to enjoy
Where are the W A G O s? !!! Twisting wires actually damages the wires, that's why it's not in the instructions from the mfg. to do it.
Should have reframed that head knocker staircase
@@ElectricProAcademy I neglected to add they at the beginning of my statement
Dude...leave that shit to Electro Boom!
Bridging
that panel is BEAT, too many double single ckt breakers
We always test on live then test dead circuit then test live
10 can lights does this guy not know with just 6 lights and 3500 led light bulbs that would be good light
All those breakers need to be replaced.
That panel needs to be replaced... it's pretty janky.
I cringed when I saw those sloppy wires going into that outlet
I HATE LED lights. They're fine for SOME things, for some flashlights, for SOME indicators, but not for everything. Especially not lighting. It seems like there is always flickering and it seems I get headaches and nauseous with LED and Fluorescent lighting. I say that 14/2 should never be used. I use 12/2 with ground and 20 amps sockets. Even if it's a 15 amps circuit breaker, it will make the circuit safer. If outlets share a circuit, the first outlet should be a GFCI and everything else downstream protected by that one. Regardless if wet or dry. Always go above and beyond what code demands.
I also hate plastic boxes. I used to do my own electrical work. I am no longer physically able to do it, so I always insist my electrician uses metal boxes. One would think I have stock in the steel industry, but metal boxes are so much better. If I ever take charge of NEC I will ban plastic and nylon boxes, and I will ban 14 gauge or smaller wire when it comes to someone's home. I would even say that ground wires should be insulated with green, to make sure that a bare ground doesn't come into contact with something live. One could argue that it will blow, but I argue that if something is not properly grounded, everything that comes into contact with that bare wire is also energized too.
As for floor joists, I call them rafters.
One pet peeve is the excess of wire an electrician will pull, and then they cut off like 3 or 4 feet, then an additional several inches. Seems like a waste of wire and a customer's money, as I am sure that doesn't come out of the electrician's or the company's pocket. As for wire twists, I've discovered push connectors and Wago Lever nuts. I prefer the Wago lever nuts. I am not using "Wago" generically. They're better than other lever nuts and I find them easier and more secure than the push Ideal In-Sure. It's just so much easier, more secure, especially when splicing solid to stranded.
I've given a lot of thought to the tester you used at the end. There are a few improvements I wish Klein would consider. Rechargeable battery that recharges by plugging it in, and automatically stops charging when batteries are charged, and detection of a false or bootleg ground.
Life has killed the dream I dreamed of being an electrician. Fibromyalgia though rare in men, is just as horrible. I went to trade school. All they did is tell me stuff I already knew. I don't know how I knew it, I just did. Taking apart broken TV sets and stereos when I was a kid, not realizing a cathode tube or capacitor could kill me, but I had enough sense at 8 years old to stay away from certain parts. I fixed my Grandmother's Motorola Hi-Fi that a service guy could not fix. Vacuum tubes weren't available then so I couldn't make the radio play but I had the record player working. My Grandma was impressed. I took my Dad's drill apart just to see how it worked and couldn't get it back together. He was really mad about that for some reason. (Not like he used it.) And Mother got mad when I took apart her vacuum cleaner, because she did use it.
Anyway, thanks for posting these videos. I love watching them and think about how I would do it, since I can't physically do it anymore.
I see a BIG Code Violation ! And that would be Clearance Space in front and on the sides of that Main Panel and whoever wired that panel and basement, VERY SLOPPY Work and poor craftsmanship and NOT to CODE !!!
Looks like it might have enough clearance to me. I wasn't there with a tape measure myself so hard to say. The National Electrical Code [NEC 110.26 (A)(1&2)] requires a clear area for access and working in front of an electric panel that is 2.5 feet (30”) wide, 3 feet (36”) deep, and 6.5 feet (78”) high for a regular residential 120/240-volt panel. NEC 110.26(A)(2) states that “the width of the working space in front of the electrical equipment shall be the width of the equipment or 762 mm (30 in.), whichever is greater.” In addition, this work space shall permit at least a 90-degree opening of the panelboard door. The work is sloppy, though.
@@illestofdemall13 ; One is NOT suppose to clutter or store misc. items in front or around the required working space of a Electrical Panel ! The Home Owners need to clear the area around the panel ! I'm not going to argue the issue with you because I know that I'm right and you are wrong ! I can state this because I'm a Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor with over 55 years in the trade and I know the Codes !!
@@BearStar1 Calm down bud. I was referring to the working space. Customer putting crap in their basement has zero to do with the electrician's initial installation. Just because you're older than someone else don't make you right all the time. I've been right and my boss has been wrong at times and he's a Master Electrician. I also know the codes. I need more hours before I can become a journeyman.
I am bothered by the fact that you were unsure about the use of Square D breakers in that panel. As a professional you should KNOW FOR A FACT that Square D breakers are listed for use ONLY WITH SQUARE D PANELS! Square D also does nor permit ANY other brand of breakers in their panels.
This is a major fail on your part in an otherwise excellent video.
No. Square D Homeline (HOM) breakers are interchangeable with other panels. But non-Square D breakers will not fit in a Homeline panel.
@@KameraShy Wrong, Schneider does NOT approve of Homeline being used in any other panel. Now, other makers may say that HOM can be used in THEIR panel, but again, the maker of the breaker says not allowed.
This is the 2ed time I’ve seen you use the ‘6 can light is this video 20 years old? Lol
Round nail ons with 6" halo SLED's literally all we put in now. We only use recessed cans for gimballed lights or other oddball trims
You don’t have led 4 inch pots?
Bridging