How To Welded Ski Base Repair Core Shots & On Edge
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- Опубліковано 19 січ 2017
- Here we go through the welded ski base repair process with a long core shot and a shot at the edge as well. This type of damage can't be fixed with a p-tex candle. If you did, it more than likely won't last long. Don't worry about small scratches on a ski base. Those don't create any issues.
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Absolutely 💯 amazing repair video, very detailed and explaining throughout 👌 👏
Ski repair shops hate this man! 😂😂
Ha ha! Most shops will use an extrusion gun. Fast and quick, not like my videos! Glad you liked it.
I have never had a base repair come out, ever. Skis died first! 😉
Best repair video i've seen ever. i recently started repairing snow equipment and i've whatched a lot of videos about this..Nobody said that the p-tex should not smoke. very good advice and everithing makes much more sense now. Thank you!
Thanks. It's a super long video, but I like to do real time actual stuff like this.
A tiny bit of smoke is all you should have when you lift the heating tool.
This type of repair should be for the life of the ski and never "pop" out.
Best to you.
pai si tu folosesti ledcon normal sau ce folosesti ca sa topesti metal grip-ul ala ?
@@vladgeorgescu4049 eu personal da.. un letcon cu reglaj de temperatura din lidl. dau pe minim.. si i-am strivit varful sa fie cat mai plat
Master class. Thank you so much for posting this invaluable tutorial!
It's a long one! Thanks!
Thanks!!! Just hit the rocks at Lake Louise West Bowl 😢 but it is fixable!
You're welcome. Good luck!
Awesome video man, thanks for putting it together.
Your welcome. It's the whole deal. If you gonna ride, it's a good skill to have.
"It don't mean a butt"---Love that one Sagina1999. Very helpful for a first timer like myself. Worked like a charm. Thanks,
Yea, easy to take to shop where they use an extrusion gun, but this is more fun and after enough times you will gain back the money you put out for the stuff!
Rock is out big time in OR & WA! Pray for snow, but don't bug God too much!
Worked great....thank you
Awesome. Welded is the best. Done right will last the life of the ski.
Thankyou Sir! much appreciated. Best tutorial I've found.
Thanks. It's long, but truth is told. Good luck!
love this video tutorial - I would suggest the wood burner vs. a standard solder pen since you can adjust the heat on the wood burner. Also most weld sticks are flat these days. Watch this video, do exactly as he does and you won't be re-repairing p-tex dings.
I like the wood burner for the tip selections available. A solder iron will work fine if one uses the regulator I show here. Lot of heat is needed, but too much heat is no good!
Using this one to repair my fat skis today, hope to see you soon for some turns my friend.
Good luck! Don't come this way until Skyliner is fixed!
Thanks man. Great video. It will help me fix my last shotty repair, lol.
Good luck, and don't sweat the small stuff!
Simply amazing!
Thank you.
You're welcome. If you want to do it right, don't over heat! This repair worked. I rarely need to do this, if when I do I want it to hold for the remaining life of the ski.
I love this dude!
Thanks. It's long, but it will teach you. Only repair when needed. Don't worry about scratches!
This video is good to go. Just got done filling a gouge on the edge of my snowboard. I did not have metal grip which caused a little divit on the edge where I filled it with Ptex. Should be ok for one more day on the mountain and then I’ll get the proper tools to make it last longer.
Nice. This method is not fast like having a gun, but it works good. Metal Grip is a must.
super helpful, thx oltimer
You're welcome!
When my mans whips out his coors, I knew this was my kind of video
With a repair this long, one needs a sip! ;-)
great video! would love to see one on applying ptex patches as well, I have a huge coreshot in the edge and im worried the ptex and metalfix will come out
I don't do those. Proper application of Metal Grip will not ever "come out". Then finish with the regular wire as you see here.
Thank you!
You're welcome. Now an expert at DIY you will be!
Pro Work!👍👍👍
It's not the easy way, but the best way.
I don't like extrusion iron guns.
The repairs held out, because if they didn't, I always tell folks to bring them back for free.
Awesome. I have a little Weller soldering iron that has a temp dial, so I'm gonna give that a go. Son got a core shot at the edge and dripping some candle in just ain't working worth a shit. I'm excited to get my hands working on this because I used to solder sheet copper and tin with a soldering copper, and I think this will tap into my motor memory to some degree. Appreciate ya, your demeanor and style. Loved this video.
Yes, give it a go. Main thing is not too hot. Metal Grip is a must, and heat that edge a bit, as you saw me do.
Have a sharp scraper, and just scrape a little at a time. Good luck!
@@Sagina1999 Thanks! I have all that stuff. I don't have any decent ptex wire though (only basic candles), do you think it's ok to use the metal grip to completely fill the hole? It's not too large. Very narrow and meets edge on angle at thin end. I'm pretty good with the metal scraper.
@@TheBarnaby25 You can, but it's very hard to scrape down. You might want to use a coarse file a bit at first. Good luck!
This is good stuff for just relaxing. Cold beer in hand and put the feet up!
Sweet. Sorry it's so long, but the shot was looooong! Glad you just relaxed to view!
This video was “bitchin” thank you
It's a good skill to learn. Glad you liked it.
totally gonna start using that word more.
Hello. Thanks for the great repair video. I have tracked down some metal grip as a result
and started repairing a core shot as you outlined. I seem to be having a problem applying the petex
to the metal grip. When it cools it the Petex seems very porous and soft making it difficult to scrap.
do you have any suggestions?
Just keep practicing. It's doesn't have to be "perfect".
I like to use a short Panzer file to shave the repair material. Cabinet scrapers are to rough and may tear out the new ptex.... Great video , thanks.
Yes. A panzar file can do the trick, yet using your fingers as a gauge with the steel scraper is what I prefer. As long as it works for you, it's all good.
Different strokes for different folks.
Thanks for the constructive good comment.
Thankkkkkk youuuuu!!!
My pleasure.
thankyou
Practice makes perfect. Good luck!
Hey, have you considered using a hot air iron? It'll likely get a better bond as it'll soften the material around the repair while melting the rod, and they have a nearly infinite heat range as well. I'm not sure how well it'd work, but it's a thought!
No. In the past, I did some PVC welding with a hot air gun designed just for that.
Not even the extrusion guns for base repair use hot air that I am aware of.
What should be used to clean the area before applying the metal grip or ptex? Thanks.
Wax remover such as Toko HC-3, then a bit of alcohol on a rag after the remover dries.
Any thoughts on using metal grip vs a marine epoxy like west systems G/flex 650?
No. I have only used metal grip. I would venture to say that the G-flex would be very hard to smooth off.
Loved the video, super useful. I want to ask though, metal grip wire is graphite wire? And graphite repair candle is different than graphite wire? If so why? Arent they the same material?
There is not graphite in the wire. It is black in the video, but both come in clear as well. The metal grip is "p-tex" with epoxy blended in. It's a must to prime the repair with it with a core-shot, or on metal edges.
Which base (sintered porous or extruded) and which brand has the most fuzzy buildup, or most even coating of the tiny plastic hairs? What effect on friction do those have, what do they feel like on the hand?
That's a lot of questions! Sintered always best. "Hairy" bases are slow! Been abraded! Wax, brush, repeat over and over! Use steel scraper to help remove hair! Waxing helps hold down the hairs! Need to see other videos I have made. Search my channels search bar!
See this: ua-cam.com/video/H96_dAgeHRs/v-deo.html
i cant find any ptex in my country is it possible to use anything else
That's sad. IDK what to tell you. Many places sell and ship online. Search online.
This is incredibly more helpful than any other video I’ve watched on core shot repairs. Thank you!
Any idea where I can pick up some metal grip in the Bend area? Would much rather grab it locally for the immediacy rather than ordering online.
You can get the metal-grip and ptex wire at the Race Place. They have just moved to 665 SW Columbia St.
You can get a regulator and a wood burner kit at the big craft stores north Bend. Good luck!
@@Sagina1999 Great! I’ll swing by there. Thanks for the recommendation and heads up on that address change.
hard to believe tpex only comes in black and clear...
also wonder if pex plumbing pipe is similar enough to use? I know it comes in blue red and white.
That I could not tell you. Probably too brittle. Give it a try. Let us know how it works.
Anyway who cares about base color aside from carbon black being anti-static.
Hello, thanks for the video! Can I use a soldering iron to melt the materials? Also, where do you buy both wires? Thanks
Yes you can, but you need a way to reduce the temperature such as the regulator I show you. A handy person could probably make one with a light dimmer switch.
You can find the wire either from a ski shop or an online ski shop such as The Race Place
Okay, thanks for the info. I will use this method to fix up my main core shot, but do you have an idea of what is the best way to fix these weirdly shaped core shots? imgur.com/jE7ebny They kind of like gradually go from higher to lower until it reaches the core if you know what I mean. Like should I cut a whole hole out, then fill with metalgrip and ptex?
Do them all the same way. If it is through the base, always prime with Metal-Grip, then final fill with P-Tex. Good luck.
A ski base won’t absorb wax anymore if you apply ptex repairs??
Yes, where it is "repaired"
Don't drip ptex candle all over your base for nothing but small scratches!
How long can a metal grip repair last?
When done correctly, forever.
can you use a ptex candle instead of a wire?
Sure you can, but it won't last. Too soft.
Hi Jacque
I have been enjoying your videos and am very much looking forward to a upcoming visit to Bend and Mt. Bachelor. I used this video to help me repair a similar core shot I sustained at Sunday River in Maine earlier this year. They fixed it at the mountain but it started coming out shortly after.
I tried to use a soldering iron to do the P-Tex and didn’t have any luck. So I thought I would try candles or sticks. I have a problem of the p-Tex cracking. I am guessing that’s why you use the wood burner to build up the P-Tex. The soldering iron worked well for the metal weld. Any tips? Also, maybe I’ll run into you out on the hill. I would love to meet the Dominator Jacque in person.
Maybe too much heat during welding that caused cracking. Don't use a candle. They are pretty much worthless repairs. Okay in a pinch to seal a core, but welded is the only way to go. Seed me a comment before you come to Bachelor and we can connect. If you have an FB page I am Jacques Mailloux. On PugSki I am Jacques. Take care now!
Wow! Awesome to run into you yesterday at Mt. Bachelor. Thanks for taking us on a few laps. I had a great time!
Had no idea that Adam Sandler was also a talented ski tech
Much love man! Gear on!
Is the P-Tex repair wire the same as a P-Tex candle?
No. Candle is quite soft. Won't last and won't stick on an edge or core shot.
@@Sagina1999 But you wouldn't use that for an edge weld right? You'd use the metal grip...but then the p-tex over that? What about gouges and scrapes that don't go to the core? Would you just scrape them level and leave them, or would you fill them?
@@JackBauer529 Don't sweat the small stuff. Only fix if it is deep.
I have seen skis with candle dripped all over them for tiny scratches.
Now the base will not absorb wax anymore.
@@Sagina1999 Does the p-tex wire hold wax better than the candle?
@@JackBauer529 The repaired areas will not hold wax. A welded repair is the way to go. When done correctly and well, it will last for the life of the ski.
Watch the whole video when you have time!
5 hours, or 5 seconds?
Ha ha, I do have the worlds longest ski tuning video though. It is over 5 hours long!
What is the brand and model of the welder you're using?
I go over that at the beginning. It's a wood burning kit with a regulator combined.
This link will start you at the place: ua-cam.com/video/suk5BFA7ETc/v-deo.html
@@Sagina1999 Thank you for your response. This video inspired me to get a Kuu brand ptex welding tool, and it's paid for itself literally 12x over (by repairing my older Never Summer and Burton versus cost of replacing 2 boards). I never knew you could weld ptex with this precision, until seeing this. God bless!
@@tyjandrews Is there anyway to adjust the temperature with that? Did you get a lot of smoke with it? The tip seems a bit wide, but if that 430 F doesn't make a lot of smoke, I'd say that's a good deal!
@@Sagina1999 There's no temperature dial, but I reckon an external controller would work. It's only 40-watt but will definitely melt through your base if you leave it in one place too long.
The KUU works really well with ptex control. I did not have any ash or burning with clear ptex, which is very nice. I am also surprised how well this KUU makes ptex stay in place on a sintered base.
Overall, this gets the job done well. Unless you absolutely need this within the next 2 days, I would not purchase on Amazon because it's ~$40 with free shipping on many other sites. (Amazon sells the same exact model for $60+.)
@@tyjandrews Race Wax dot com had a short video with one, and I didn't see a bunch of smoke there.
If you are not getting a bunch of smoke, it must not get too hot.
Thanks for the reply.
Can he post more videos with cool adages? I am going to start saying "bitchin'" and "close enough for government work" as often as I can now.
Ha ha. I'm an old hippie!
Around 14:10 you said you probably don't even need metal grip for that repair. Why was that?
The regular wire would probably stick to the fiberglass, but still, I would recommend metal grip first as it is core shot.
@@Sagina1999 Had my first core shot experience last week. Three spots about an inch long, razor thin. They claimed $180 and a full day lost to fix. Trying to find out if my ignorance was taken advantage of.
@@bobbyseither5283 We live and learn! Seems way much. Maybe they wanted to stone grind the skis too. No need to do that.
drink every time he says "little bit"
Ha ha! Have fun with that one, but don't mess up on the scrape. Maybe a few strokes with the "Surform" first!
Ha ha! Don't try it! You will die from alcohol poisoning!
@@Sagina1999 he is no longer responding. . .you probably killed him
@@BillyBobbby Good one! I hope he is still alive!
Stand by...need to roll me another joint...
ya know
Ha ha, you funny! Thing needs to cool down a while before you scrape!! ;-)
If you ever watched a lot of my videos, you will see I say "stand-by" quite often!
We could use more snow in NH too. Too warm. "Ski the Ice(oops I mean East!)
Don't pray too hard. Too many people bugging God now. He don't like that!
Could you not just use epoxy??
One can do whatever they like. As for a good repair that won't have snow sticking, I would never use epoxy.
This is the sadness of the color board, black repair
没有人在乎它是否是黑色的
这是勇气的标志。