Just a note for the viewers that are starting their mechanical education or just getting into it: Most early gasoline engines had updraft carburetors (carbs that sucked air in below the intake) because floats and needle and seat development was kind of iffy at the time . In the event you overflowed your float bowl it would just run out of the carb instead of down the intake that would in turn hydrolock your motor with a cylinder full of gasoline or dilute you engine oil by running past the piston rings. Also for this reason most early cars had a gasoline shut off valve to cut the fuel off at the tank. In the case of Model T and A fords it was under the dash as the gas tank was located in the cowl under the windshield.
Hi mustie, my most expensive thanks for taking your precious time to share this invaluable time and information with us, I was born and raised in the mechanical industry, my productive years I spent them in the diesel industry due to better pay mainly I did troubleshooting now I am 71 years old, frecuently I ams searching the internet for videos like yours, to enhance my knowledge, that entertain me and keep me more skillful, allow me to express my gratitude for your outstanding and impressive videos, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres. Should I leave near by you I would request permission to visit your shop but The distance is near three thousand miles away from your location, most kind of you gentleman.
Before you started tearing the carb down,you should have soaked it and all the parts for a couple of days in a good carburetor cleaner. That way, you wouldn’t have injured a good part. DJ
@Dennis Johnson I've actually had pretty good luck soaking them in a coffee can in gasoline to rehydrate everything and soften up varnish with float bowl off.. (keep a lid on it to contain fumes)
I love that you can laugh that off after a couple of seconds of silent fuming.... it happens to us all, and how you recover from a mistake is what counts!
Mustie is a very patient guy, I can relate. But, when it comes to car repair, I can only take so much. You sir just keep going, and going. I salute you.
It’s all in his attitude. He knows he will figure stuff out so there’s less stress. Call if confidence or what have you….it’s addicting to watch that’s for sure
The slower you go the faster you get it done. Haste makes waste. You definitely have to be able to detach when you reach your limits. Going harder is usually not the solution. When Darren broke off the throttle lever that was a perfect example of going too far. He tried his luck and came away a loser. Don't rely on luck. If he'd started out heating and hitting it he'd have gotten it without breaking the lever off. It's what he ended up doing anyways.
@@1pcfred When we need to see the way a real pro would handle anything, we all know to go straight to your channel. You have tons of videos that show the right way to do everything. But seriously. Imagine the need to be heard, that you felt this was a comment that needed leaving.
Just trash those old fuse panels. I have tried to fix them with solder, might work for a bit then the solder breaks. Dissimilar metals. The problem is between the rivets and the tabs. One I tried to fix was off a old boat so I drilled out the rivets cleaned it all up. Put it back with screws. In a couple of years it was intermittent. Remember the meter is only putting a tiny current through the joint, with the actual current it might go open again.
Problem with solder in automotive wiring is it'll eventually crack with all the vibration, so those fuse panels, either drill out those rivets & replace them after cleaning the terminals, or scrap 'em and fit some new (decent) ones, for longevity and to avoid any bad joints causing hotspots and potential for unintended flames... :P
Took me back about 70 years. Sounded just like my neighbors car. I remember hearing that idling sound, although I could not see the source, my father said it was a Model A. Now I know why he lusted after a car that debuted when he was 16. Narragansett Bay
As a carb builder for 30-plus yrs. Very nice fix to that carb but I was yelling at the screen it's brass it's gonna snap. That's the good thing about brass if you can get it hot enough to accept new brass it will stick. Very cool video.
I think the hot enough rule applies to all metal really. Though with some metals you do have to be careful when they come up to temperature because they tend to burn in an oxygen environment.
I had one of those hammers 50 years ago. It was in my tool box stolen out of my shed. On the lookout, could it be? If it is, it’s been put to good use.
A couple of other comments: you don't need to fill the radiator up to the neck. Just enough coollant to cover the core. If you can see water when you look down the neck, it's probably too full. Next, after you get the engine started, use the timing lever on the left side of the steering wheel to advance about half way. That will really smooth out the engine idle.
Well buddy, you gone and done it again !! Being a Gen X, ive had to sit here and try to answer questions from 4 14-16 year olds im not qualified to answer, like "Dad, whats the difference between TIG, MIG, Soldering and Braising ?" Still, its makes me smile seeing these guys glued to learning important stuff from the likes of your good self and Vice Grip Garage. Your giving hope to the next generation so hats off to ya. Oh, I dont even try to answer - its a "Go look on Google dummy" rsponse :)
That's getting better and better soon you will be able to give it back to the owner excellent video awesome content thank you for bringing us along with you six stars brother
When I was a kid, I thought these engines "sounded primitive." Now they're sweet music to my ears. Funny what a little time will do for your perspective.
I "rebuilt" a copper solenoid contact switch on a Caravan starter using a 1/2" copper fitting. Flattened the copper pipe fitting, rounded it off, drilled a hole through it, then hammered it onto the grooved fitting shaft. Wasted 3 hours of my time, when I could have bought a rebuilt starter/solenoid for $60 at the time. But, I just wanted to fix it myself.
Mustie, fixing that carburetor shaft is the exact reason I watch your channel. Me when it broke I would have hurled it across the garage and contacted Paul Shinn for a replacement. 24:23
When you get to it, Take that filter can back at the tank out. Never put a "filter" on the gravity or suction side. Use a mesh screen/strainer. The fine (paper usually) modern filters are for pressure feed. You can get a restriction or a vapor lock, with a "filter" on the suction side.
it probably still has a brass filter inside the tank but the crud level got too bad. If you notice, there's a bottom plug on that tank fitting to drain water / crap in the t-fitting.
@@1pcfred Yea I see some modern looking pump thing. on the frame rail, then the 'filter' needs to be after that. Sucking through a filter will cause the filter to act as a nucleation point. AKA Mentos and Coke. Can you say vapor lock boys and girls?
When I do stuff like that, there's a phrase I say to myself. When I watched you shear that throttle shaft, I said it aloud, "Way to go, Mongo!". Great project! Thanks, Mongo.
Been Playing this week with a Bronze cast Impeller at Work, you can use either AC or DC on Brass using TIG, Preheat helps with adhesion and then allowing it to cool slowly in some form of thermal wrap helps to prevent cracking. Soon I have to try and repair the Spigot Diameter of two Bronze Boat Rudders using SIF MIG and Spiralwelding on a Lathe. You should see the crazy Jig we made to hold it in the Lathe Chuck.
Every now and then things go side ways. I love that you don't lose your cool. Never give in, never give up. Keep on fixing. That's what you do my friend.
About that shaft ... I was thinking of drilling a hole in it first (using a lathe)... .. then, using a brass screw, put it together. Then braze the thing (as I didn't know how it was put together.) Nice job you did!
Great and fun video to watch! How I love the sound of an ancient 4-stroke engine running at ultra-low idle. Sounds almost like an an equally ancient hit & miss engine -- which, during a power outage or government inflicted brownout, could run a household generator all day and all night.
New Hampshire isn't considered Yankee they live free or die trying. not God save king Henry. Like Rhode Island or other loyalists states, Connecticut etc
Like you, I was holding my breath when you were twisting on that throttle lever. I think we all knew what was going to happen 🤔😬😁! Nice job on the repair! Gotta love the sound of those old engines. Thanks for sharing.
Nice repair Mustie. My first choice would have been solder. While the brass is stronger, there shouldn't be enough twisting stress to break it if it were soldered. Either way, well done!!
Head lights is on the center of the steering column! Also thru the choke on the right side of the dash to the left a quarter of a turn to correct the idle!
Hi mustie, you are a remarkable knowlegeble technician, remain me at my working days where I was on troubleshooting day and day out, now I am an old man and have the blessings to seat down and enjoy each and everyone of your outstanding and impressive videos, my most expensive thanks for sharing them with us, congratulations mustier, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres
Man! Love it.. Warts and all.. Old vehicles never give up their secrets easily.. I was shouting at the screen 'it's brass'... Half the trick is knowing how to do a 'work around' ... Thanks again!!!
I used a flexible plumbing drain snake to get the nests out of the tailpipe of my dads plow truck. It worked pretty well. At least it would dig out enough that the rest would blow out when my brother revved it up. Note: Don't stand behind the pipe. Only took one time when I was 15 to learn that one!
I'm about to start reviving a 29' International that's been sitting in a field for a quarter century. Glad I found your channel, before I started, so I can get some insight on not breaking stuff. Fortunately, it's been sitting in a drier climate and the rust and corrosion shouldn't be as bad. My goal is to be running it around the property in a year. (I've posted a couple video clips of it as is).
Thanks again Mustie for taking the time and effort to put out these videos, always a joy to watch, those fuse blocks would really try my patience, but you just keep persevering, good for you 👍🙂
Mustie1 - When you started to repair the butterfly shaft by buliding up weld, I was surprised you didn't first try drilling a short length hole in the shaft and brazing or welding in some rod or a bolt - then add a thin nut to extend the shaft and weld back on the linkage arm.
... I was thinking to gas braze it and use a Dremel tool. You can always chuck that in a drill press and run some emery cloth or a file to round it out again.
That's how I'd have approached it myself. I'd have drilled and tapped it for a small screw thread then put a screw in there maybe a 6-32 or something. But I have a milling machine and V blocks. Probably could have fixed it like that and some JB Weld. Personally I'd have taken the care to not break the part in the first place. I gave up on reefing on stuff a long time ago. I'd have gone right to heat and percussion. Tappy, tap, tap.
@@daleburrell6273 just tap it. Percussion works because oxides are brittle. The taps break the crud up. The trick is to break the crud without breaking the sound material. I have managed to free up some incredibly seized items over the years. Stuff that I thought there wasn't a chance.
This is where you junk the glass fuse block and leave it there just for looks, then rewire with a modern fuse block hidden under the dash. Also, on the horn there should be an adjustment screw that holds a detent ball bearing in place. The ball may need to be oiled and then the screw adjusted to add a little pressure to the ball.
That fuse box is not original. I don't know if the car had fuses. Glass fuses like that are modernish though. Certainly decades later than that car was produced.
@@firesurfer that truck could be a fun toy for the right person. That's about it. Good for small town parades. I wouldn't bring it to a car show though. It wouldn't hold up under close scrutiny.
I have used a shop vac to check exhaust restriction before and it works well to gauge the air volume at both ends. These days it has more to do with cat converters. BTW, that fuse block was a VERY popular aftermarket item in the 70s / 80s. I'd bet some parts outlet still has it available in their catalogue. I used them to install all sorts of things in vehicles at our firehouse.
Very entertaining. Almost as good as "Dr House" but without the fancy words and the limp. That carb repair, for me, was the highlight of the show. Bravo maestro.....Looking forward to the next one.
Mustie1, Very nice work and repair on the shaft. Since your gonna be busy with other projects, you could order parts. Perhaps replace the fuse boxes so your not chasing your tail on electrical….haha
Awesome save on the carb. My 1931 chevy did the same thing to me 40 yrs ago. I think I put the pot metal back together with JB Weld. Thanks for sharing
I've rebuilt Zenith carbs for the Model A (years ago) and am aware of the Tillotson replacements for these. The carb kits can't be too expensive (unlike the new replacement carburetors), but I do appreciate your content and always enjoy your videos.
I was about to add that as a comment! The other thing is the Tillotsons were also used on about a million farm tractors. There's a bunch of restored Model As & Bs running around with "tractor" carburetors..
@@jfarmer1711 Yes, indeed, and I have a Zenith on my '41 Ford 9N which is a vast improvement over the factory carburetor (Marvel Schebler). The thing with rebuilding the original carbs is the lack of quality control nowdays as regards the jets, which is why I bought a lot of original carbs and used the original jets.
That's what I love about Mustie1, you get it all !! I don't learn anything from the guys that show you the problem and then hey presto the the thing is removed and on the bench in parts !! Mustie1 you make my day everytime I see one of your videos. I took downloaded episodes with me on vacation and my wife now says I am addicted to watching these wonderful mechanical insights. Best addiction to have !!
My Mother told me Her Dad would sing a Song. You Will Never Get To Heaven in a Old Ford Car, Cause The Darn Old Thing Won't Drive That Far. Funny, I Qualified as a Ford Mechanic. Still trying to Prove Granddad Wrong. Lol.
Hey mustie, great job . One thing I noticed was that when you put the lower fuse panel back together you used the second slot from the top instead of the top. I don't know if that would make a difference as to why you have no power to the top fuse panel.
I also noticed that. The fuse is in the second spot down. The wire is on the top spot. Could explain no power to top fuse box or the purpose of other switch is maybe both. Great video.
Hey mate love your vids....hang on them every SUnday night here in Australia!!!....not sure if anyone has said anything...and i could be wrong...but dont they normally crank from the button on the floor?...the one that looks like a dimmer switch from the 70s
Great video !! I am curious if similar fuse holders cannot be found. Even with soldering, those old fuse holders could cause you problems in the future, and wiring gremlins love stuff like this. Just a suggestion, I know you would rather fix anything rather than replace it.
that was a VERY common aftermarket fuse panel in the 70s / 80s so there must be something similar out there. BTW, under a hood I always sprayed them with a bit of oil. (back in the day) These days I'd be smearing dielectric grease everywhere.
I'm inclined to agree with you. Sure those fuse holders can be fixed but the amount of work involved isn't worth it for what they are. They were not the best when they were made. Which is why they're in the condition they're in now.
Repairing with the acid core older and the flux is going to cause problems in the future. Acid core is meant for plumbing only not electrical work. Nice to hear ha engine purring.
She's sounding sweeter and sweeter. I hope the manifold repair in in the next one and maybe a drive. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on that beautiful old girl.
Just a note for the viewers that are starting their mechanical education or just getting into it:
Most early gasoline engines had updraft carburetors (carbs that sucked air in below the intake) because floats and needle and seat development was kind of iffy at the time . In the event you overflowed your float bowl it would just run out of the carb instead of down the intake that would in turn hydrolock your motor with a cylinder full of gasoline or dilute you engine oil by running past the piston rings. Also for this reason most early cars had a gasoline shut off valve to cut the fuel off at the tank. In the case of Model T and A fords it was under the dash as the gas tank was located in the cowl under the windshield.
Hi mustie, my most expensive thanks for taking your precious time to share this invaluable time and information with us, I was born and raised in the mechanical industry, my productive years I spent them in the diesel industry due to better pay mainly I did troubleshooting now I am 71 years old, frecuently I ams searching the internet for videos like yours, to enhance my knowledge, that entertain me and keep me more skillful, allow me to express my gratitude for your outstanding and impressive videos, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres. Should I leave near by you I would request permission to visit your shop but The distance is near three thousand miles away from your location, most kind of you gentleman.
Before you started tearing the carb down,you should have soaked it and all the parts for a couple of days in a good carburetor cleaner. That way, you wouldn’t have injured a good part. DJ
@Dennis Johnson I've actually had pretty good luck soaking them in a coffee can in gasoline to rehydrate everything and soften up varnish with float bowl off.. (keep a lid on it to contain fumes)
I love that you can laugh that off after a couple of seconds of silent fuming.... it happens to us all, and how you recover from a mistake is what counts!
Mustie is a very patient guy, I can relate. But, when it comes to car repair, I can only take so much. You sir just keep going, and going. I salute you.
It’s all in his attitude. He knows he will figure stuff out so there’s less stress. Call if confidence or what have you….it’s addicting to watch that’s for sure
The slower you go the faster you get it done. Haste makes waste. You definitely have to be able to detach when you reach your limits. Going harder is usually not the solution. When Darren broke off the throttle lever that was a perfect example of going too far. He tried his luck and came away a loser. Don't rely on luck. If he'd started out heating and hitting it he'd have gotten it without breaking the lever off. It's what he ended up doing anyways.
Right. Experience plays into it, he knows sooner or later he'll have a workable repair. He ranks right on up there with mechanics I've known.
@@1pcfred When we need to see the way a real pro would handle anything, we all know to go straight to your channel. You have tons of videos that show the right way to do everything. But seriously. Imagine the need to be heard, that you felt this was a comment that needed leaving.
I love this dude and all the stuff he works on definitely a character. Keep it up man
Just trash those old fuse panels. I have tried to fix them with solder, might work for a bit then the solder breaks. Dissimilar metals. The problem is between the rivets and the tabs. One I tried to fix was off a old boat so I drilled out the rivets cleaned it all up. Put it back with screws. In a couple of years it was intermittent. Remember the meter is only putting a tiny current through the joint, with the actual current it might go open again.
Thank you for all that you are doing and letting us in behind the curtain of what is going on in your head as you go through the process.
Thank you
Hope your migraines are under control . Prayers for you .
Problem with solder in automotive wiring is it'll eventually crack with all the vibration, so those fuse panels, either drill out those rivets & replace them after cleaning the terminals, or scrap 'em and fit some new (decent) ones, for longevity and to avoid any bad joints causing hotspots and potential for unintended flames... :P
YEYYYYY my favorit youtube mechanic is back hope you sweet and sound mate gretting from UK
Took me back about 70 years. Sounded just like my neighbors car. I remember hearing that idling sound, although I could not see the source, my father said it was a Model A. Now I know why he lusted after a car that debuted when he was 16. Narragansett Bay
That horn perfectly represented how well it was gonna run. You are a much much better man than I am. Thanks for the video!
Hi, don't forget the bolt in the bell housing haha. Many thanks from UK.
As a carb builder for 30-plus yrs. Very nice fix to that carb but I was yelling at the screen it's brass it's gonna snap. That's the good thing about brass if you can get it hot enough to accept new brass it will stick. Very cool video.
👍🗿
I think the hot enough rule applies to all metal really. Though with some metals you do have to be careful when they come up to temperature because they tend to burn in an oxygen environment.
Pretty sure Mustie's had that old body hammer 🔨 since he started his channel
It takes a long time even for Mustie to wear out a hammer.
That hammer is probably one he found as a 12 year old and was about his 23rd tool in his first toolbox....
Fitzies fab uses one like that too. I had one thirty years ago🌘🌒
I had one of those hammers 50 years ago. It was in my tool box stolen out of my shed. On the lookout, could it be? If it is, it’s been put to good use.
You are amazing. Please stay safe. Don’t want you to do a Jay Leno.
I always look forward to Sunday morning and your videos! Keep it coming my friend.
Great save on that carb. It's awesome how versatile TIG welding can be on a wide range of materials.
Mustie1, Sundays are always better when you post. You always teach me something. Thanks. God Bless
A couple of other comments: you don't need to fill the radiator up to the neck. Just enough coollant to cover the core. If you can see water when you look down the neck, it's probably too full. Next, after you get the engine started, use the timing lever on the left side of the steering wheel to advance about half way. That will really smooth out the engine idle.
Well buddy, you gone and done it again !! Being a Gen X, ive had to sit here and try to answer questions from 4 14-16 year olds im not qualified to answer, like "Dad, whats the difference between TIG, MIG, Soldering and Braising ?" Still, its makes me smile seeing these guys glued to learning important stuff from the likes of your good self and Vice Grip Garage. Your giving hope to the next generation so hats off to ya. Oh, I dont even try to answer - its a "Go look on Google dummy" rsponse :)
@paulshinn is a master Model A guy. Shoot him any question I’m sure he has the answer. He has his own UA-cam channel. Enjoying this series.
Great videos! I saw where you snuck the one fuse up one spot in the bottom fuse block when we weren't looking. LOL
I am a welder with over 20 years experience so ya you did pretty good 👍 for a guy welding without Flux on old equipment good job mustie1
Sound's great
The switch on the steering wheel is your light switch. It should have 2 settings. Low beam and high beam. Great job getting it running again.
That's getting better and better soon you will be able to give it back to the owner excellent video awesome content thank you for bringing us along with you six stars brother
I’m amazed how much vehicles have improved over the last 90 to 100 years
No really they are plastic trash that you need a 300K$ computer to even diagnose the smallest problem that's outlandishly worse...
When I was a kid, I thought these engines "sounded primitive." Now they're sweet music to my ears. Funny what a little time will do for your perspective.
Nice save on the carb shaft, Darren. Have a safe and fun week.
correcting a mistake is adds so much value to your videos .... they are rare....but do happen...
Don't FORGET that BOLT in Drive shaft housing !
The extra work we make for our selves!
Been there done similar things!
*EDIT* Nice save!
I "rebuilt" a copper solenoid contact switch on a Caravan starter using a 1/2" copper fitting. Flattened the copper pipe fitting, rounded it off, drilled a hole through it, then hammered it onto the grooved fitting shaft. Wasted 3 hours of my time, when I could have bought a rebuilt starter/solenoid for $60 at the time. But, I just wanted to fix it myself.
@@jaykellett2327 saved 60$ for 3hours of work, 20$/hour, pretty good, wouldn't call that wasted
@@Timsturbs ..."TIME is MONEY!!!"
@@daleburrell6273 most have more time than money these days
Mustie, fixing that carburetor shaft is the exact reason I watch your channel. Me when it broke I would have hurled it across the garage and contacted Paul Shinn for a replacement. 24:23
When you get to it, Take that filter can back at the tank out. Never put a "filter" on the gravity or suction side. Use a mesh screen/strainer. The fine (paper usually) modern filters are for pressure feed. You can get a restriction or a vapor lock, with a "filter" on the suction side.
it probably still has a brass filter inside the tank but the crud level got too bad. If you notice, there's a bottom plug on that tank fitting to drain water / crap in the t-fitting.
I think this car has an aftermarket fuel pump.
@@1pcfred Yea I see some modern looking pump thing. on the frame rail, then the 'filter' needs to be after that. Sucking through a filter will cause the filter to act as a nucleation point. AKA Mentos and Coke. Can you say vapor lock boys and girls?
@@MostlyInteresting there's nothing but the finest JC Whitney engineering going on with this truck.
When I do stuff like that, there's a phrase I say to myself. When I watched you shear that throttle shaft, I said it aloud, "Way to go, Mongo!". Great project! Thanks, Mongo.
Mongo just pawn in game of life.
Thanks a lot Mustie. Bruce in Mexico from Canada.
Been Playing this week with a Bronze cast Impeller at Work, you can use either AC or DC on Brass using TIG, Preheat helps with adhesion and then allowing it to cool slowly in some form of thermal wrap helps to prevent cracking. Soon I have to try and repair the Spigot Diameter of two Bronze Boat Rudders using SIF MIG and Spiralwelding on a Lathe. You should see the crazy Jig we made to hold it in the Lathe Chuck.
the last few words said it all , nice work & alot of time to get it to this stage , love it , thanks
The Briggs fuel tank saves the day, yet again.
Great job Mustie.
Every now and then things go side ways. I love that you don't lose your cool. Never give in, never give up. Keep on fixing. That's what you do my friend.
Very nice repair Mustie - well done indeed!
Your persistence is admirable and your inginuity is amazing. Thanks for another awesome video.
Hi Mustie, Great work as always... Get some pre-fluxed silver solder rods. Will braize copper, brass and steel
Getting there! Love seeing old rigs like this come back to life. Great work.
About that shaft ... I was thinking of drilling a hole in it first (using a lathe)... .. then, using a brass screw, put it together. Then braze the thing (as I didn't know how it was put together.)
Nice job you did!
Darren, the fuse holders need to be replaced in the long term. Solder work-hardens with vibration and the joints will crack.
Mustie has that TIG welder. He could just weld the parts together.
Great and fun video to watch! How I love the sound of an ancient 4-stroke engine running at ultra-low idle. Sounds almost like an an equally ancient hit & miss engine -- which, during a power outage or government inflicted brownout, could run a household generator all day and all night.
Wow! Let’s get it done…nice sunday morning video! Thank’s
Nice repair on the carb, Mustie. Yankee ingenuity strikes again!
New Hampshire isn't considered Yankee they live free or die trying. not God save king Henry. Like Rhode Island or other loyalists states, Connecticut etc
Like you, I was holding my breath when you were twisting on that throttle lever. I think we all knew what was going to happen 🤔😬😁! Nice job on the repair! Gotta love the sound of those old engines. Thanks for sharing.
Nice repair Mustie. My first choice would have been solder. While the brass is stronger, there shouldn't be enough twisting stress to break it if it were soldered. Either way, well done!!
Just watched Sunday morning video ( Wednesday in UK ) great to see Mustie win another battle of rusty old stuff. Tom Northeast England
Not the first time Mustie has broken something he didn't want to. Nice job!
Josh - Yes, one of Mustie's most endearing habits. He shows his mistakes instead of editing them out. We amateurs make mistakes and it's OK.
@@stevejette2329 Pros don't make mistakes.
@@eriklarson9137 He has never claimed to be a professional. He is just a regular guy (with all the tools).
@@eriklarson9137 You're obviously not a "pro". Professionals make mistakes. Whether they tell you is another story.
Amazing metal work repairing the throttle shaft.
Wow. Amazing work, mustie1. Could also be called The Junk Whisperer. Really love watching you work.
Head lights is on the center of the steering column! Also thru the choke on the right side of the dash to the left a quarter of a turn to correct the idle!
Sweet sounding little engine. Great job. Our neighbor had one back in the early seventies, and I used to love hearing it go by the house.
Mustie is the next best thing to hanging out with your handy awesome fun neighbor!! Glad you take us along my friend!!
Hi mustie, you are a remarkable knowlegeble technician, remain me at my working days where I was on troubleshooting day and day out, now I am an old man and have the blessings to seat down and enjoy each and everyone of your outstanding and impressive videos, my most expensive thanks for sharing them with us, congratulations mustier, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres
Good job
Man! Love it.. Warts and all.. Old vehicles never give up their secrets easily.. I was shouting at the screen 'it's brass'... Half the trick is knowing how to do a 'work around' ... Thanks again!!!
I used a flexible plumbing drain snake to get the nests out of the tailpipe of my dads plow truck. It worked pretty well. At least it would dig out enough that the rest would blow out when my brother revved it up. Note: Don't stand behind the pipe. Only took one time when I was 15 to learn that one!
I can't believe Mustie doesn't have a flexible claw. Even I have one of those.
Really enjoying this little project, hope you are back to full health...
I'm about to start reviving a 29' International that's been sitting in a field for a quarter century. Glad I found your channel, before I started, so I can get some insight on not breaking stuff. Fortunately, it's been sitting in a drier climate and the rust and corrosion shouldn't be as bad. My goal is to be running it around the property in a year. (I've posted a couple video clips of it as is).
I love the old ones.. I think I have been watching Mustie for 7 years or so and look forward to every Sunday
Thanks again Mustie for taking the time and effort to put out these videos, always a joy to watch, those fuse blocks would really try my patience, but you just keep persevering, good for you 👍🙂
I truly wish I had your patience. You learn the error of your ways and improve on them. LOVE the content my friend and keep the long vidjas coming.
Mustie1 - When you started to repair the butterfly shaft by buliding up weld, I was surprised you didn't first try drilling a short length hole in the shaft and brazing or welding in some rod or a bolt - then add a thin nut to extend the shaft and weld back on the linkage arm.
Yes, or drill and tap the shaft, hole in the actuator and fasten with a machine screw.
... I was thinking to gas braze it and use a Dremel tool. You can always chuck that in a drill press and run some emery cloth or a file to round it out again.
That's how I'd have approached it myself. I'd have drilled and tapped it for a small screw thread then put a screw in there maybe a 6-32 or something. But I have a milling machine and V blocks. Probably could have fixed it like that and some JB Weld. Personally I'd have taken the care to not break the part in the first place. I gave up on reefing on stuff a long time ago. I'd have gone right to heat and percussion. Tappy, tap, tap.
@@1pcfred ..."don't knock it"(?)
@@daleburrell6273 just tap it. Percussion works because oxides are brittle. The taps break the crud up. The trick is to break the crud without breaking the sound material. I have managed to free up some incredibly seized items over the years. Stuff that I thought there wasn't a chance.
Always enjoy these videos. They contain the same problems I see when working on cars and such.
Great video as always. Hope you didn't forget the loose bolt laying in the transmission.
Excellent job! Fun to watch that old girl run
This is where you junk the glass fuse block and leave it there just for looks, then rewire with a modern fuse block hidden under the dash. Also, on the horn there should be an adjustment screw that holds a detent ball bearing in place. The ball may need to be oiled and then the screw adjusted to add a little pressure to the ball.
That fuse box is not original. I don't know if the car had fuses. Glass fuses like that are modernish though. Certainly decades later than that car was produced.
@@1pcfred Definitely. I don't see any value in it historically.
@@firesurfer that truck could be a fun toy for the right person. That's about it. Good for small town parades. I wouldn't bring it to a car show though. It wouldn't hold up under close scrutiny.
Just like a good friend coming to visit and we end up piddling in the shop. Thanks for your videos Mustie!
Right on time mustie. Got my hot drink ready for this
I love your chuckle when it starts to come to life.
I have used a shop vac to check exhaust restriction before and it works well to gauge the air volume at both ends. These days it has more to do with cat converters. BTW, that fuse block was a VERY popular aftermarket item in the 70s / 80s. I'd bet some parts outlet still has it available in their catalogue. I used them to install all sorts of things in vehicles at our firehouse.
Very entertaining. Almost as good as "Dr House" but without the fancy words and the limp. That carb repair, for me, was the highlight of the show. Bravo maestro.....Looking forward to the next one.
Mustie1, Very nice work and repair on the shaft. Since your gonna be busy with other projects, you could order parts. Perhaps replace the fuse boxes so your not chasing your tail on electrical….haha
Don’t worr. We all have screwed up before. Anybody that hasn’t has never done very much.
Or simply lied
If you ain't breaking stuff then you ain't making stuff either.
Awesome save on the carb. My 1931 chevy did the same thing to me 40 yrs ago. I think I put the pot metal back together with JB Weld. Thanks for sharing
I've rebuilt Zenith carbs for the Model A (years ago) and am aware of the Tillotson replacements for these. The carb kits can't be too expensive (unlike the new replacement carburetors), but I do appreciate your content and always enjoy your videos.
I was about to add that as a comment! The other thing is the Tillotsons were also used on about a million farm tractors. There's a bunch of restored Model As & Bs running around with "tractor" carburetors..
@@jfarmer1711 Yes, indeed, and I have a Zenith on my '41 Ford 9N which is a vast improvement over the factory carburetor (Marvel Schebler). The thing with rebuilding the original carbs is the lack of quality control nowdays as regards the jets, which is why I bought a lot of original carbs and used the original jets.
Where's a good Radio Shack when you need one for that fuse bank!
Love that exhaust leak, sounds like a shod horse.
I stopped watching TV for the very reason you stated! LOve the vids just like they are! Thank you sir, keep em comin!! Please!
From a quick look, it appears that the 31 ford didn't have a fuse box originally, so any fuse box is aftermarket!
You think? Yeah those fuses are from the 70s at the earliest.
That's what I love about Mustie1, you get it all !! I don't learn anything from the guys that show you the problem and then hey presto the the thing is removed and on the bench in parts !!
Mustie1 you make my day everytime I see one of your videos. I took downloaded episodes with me on vacation and my wife now says I am addicted to watching these wonderful mechanical insights. Best addiction to have !!
Put distilled water and backing soda in the ultra sonic cleaner, the carb will come out like new.
Use oxygen acetylene small tip put a fine feather on it not a rosebud
My Mother told me Her Dad would sing a Song. You Will Never Get To Heaven in a Old Ford Car, Cause The Darn Old Thing Won't Drive That Far. Funny, I Qualified as a Ford Mechanic. Still trying to Prove Granddad Wrong. Lol.
Hey mustie, great job . One thing I noticed was that when you put the lower fuse panel back together you used the second slot from the top instead of the top. I don't know if that would make a difference as to why you have no power to the top fuse panel.
I also noticed that. The fuse is in the second spot down. The wire is on the top spot. Could explain no power to top fuse box or the purpose of other switch is maybe both. Great video.
love your humour mustie! its alive!
You are getting closer to having it drivable. Look forward to next video. Thanks Mustie 1
Great video absolutely marvellous for educational purposes The steering wheel lever is headlights near the horn have a blessed week Mustie sir 👍
Replace that fuse box, solder will crack under vibration
It has a bumper warranty. As soon as the bumper is out of sight of the shop the warranty is over.
I seriously can't get enough of watching you tinker. You're never afraid to try something! Keep up the great work!!
Afternoon mate
Love the old school, with what I have repairs! You are unique!
Chocolate syrup added to goat’s milk while watching Mustie 1.
Watching your old videos think there great keep them coming your fantastic
Hey mate love your vids....hang on them every SUnday night here in Australia!!!....not sure if anyone has said anything...and i could be wrong...but dont they normally crank from the button on the floor?...the one that looks like a dimmer switch from the 70s
On this one they moved it to the dash.
That was great Mustie enjoyed it made to move and it well be exciting
Great video !! I am curious if similar fuse holders cannot be found. Even with soldering, those old fuse holders could cause you problems in the future, and wiring gremlins love stuff like this. Just a suggestion, I know you would rather fix anything rather than replace it.
that was a VERY common aftermarket fuse panel in the 70s / 80s so there must be something similar out there. BTW, under a hood I always sprayed them with a bit of oil. (back in the day) These days I'd be smearing dielectric grease everywhere.
I'm inclined to agree with you. Sure those fuse holders can be fixed but the amount of work involved isn't worth it for what they are. They were not the best when they were made. Which is why they're in the condition they're in now.
Repairing with the acid core older and the flux is going to cause problems in the future. Acid core is meant for plumbing only not electrical work. Nice to hear ha engine purring.
@@1pcfred ... they certainly weren't meant to be exposed to the weather or stored in a barn for 50 years. My jobs were garaged so had no issues.
Maybe an old VW fuse holder?
She's sounding sweeter and sweeter. I hope the manifold repair in in the next one and maybe a drive. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on that beautiful old girl.
My wife asked me what I was doing, I replied, "Listening to Father Mustie's sermon.".
😅