I am working on refurbishing an antique pool table, and I am watching all the slate leveling, cushion, and felting videos on youtube to get an idea how to do it correctly. No one does it the same, but the one thing that is the same - in all the comments there is always people saying you did it wrong, call a professional or a guy claiming to be a 10,20,30 year veteran pool table installer calling the guy making the video an idiot. Thanks for putting up the video, it helps out a lot.
yeah, I bought a pool table recently installed by one of those clown, damn rails weren't even straight or parallel. Our local pool halls all have cloth that is not stretched or installed straight with the weave having uneven pulls, rails not square, rails not straight, table parallelogramed, all done by "professional veterans. I have a cheap pool table, all my friends trip over themselves to shoot on it, because I am a machinist and a mechanic by trade, it is level, straight, square and plays like a diamond,
I just got done building the rails for my son's mini 4-foot pool table for Christmas, which will have real pool table cloth and U23 bumper cushions! I've been referring to this and the rail felting video a ton to make sure I'm doing it right!
I think the rails came out pretty nice. Next up will be staining and sealing the rails, then putting on the bumper rubbers, rubber end pieces, and finally adding the cloth to the rails. I may try to upload a short video when it's finished.
You may want to let people know that K-66 rubber (although currently the industry standard) is not the only rubber profile used in tables. For example: current production Brunswick "Contender" series tables do not use K-66. Older Brunswick tables like the Anniversary and Centennial use K-55. So do a lot of coin-operated pool tables. So, for anyone reading this, don't just assume you have K-66 rubber. ASK QUESTIONS! I would personally NEVER use CA glue (super glue) to attach rubber. I strictly use Barge Cement. Also, this is not a job I would ever recommend an installer do in someone's home. Not going to say that everyone should call a professional to replace the rubber on a table; because there are a lot of DIYers out there who are handy enough to get it done properly. But, the average person shouldn't attempt this. You could end up ruining your rails if you aren't careful.
Thanks for your helpful comment Billiards0518. Your absolutely right about the different profiles. We sell a variety of tables, Brunswick included. Our other brands of Olhausen, Imperial, and Presidential use K-66 and we most often service those brands along with Conely, American Heritage, and some others. All of those use K-66 cushion profiles, though we make sure to check that its the right ones. I like that you said the customer should ask, because it would be horrible to get the wrong cushion glued on! We agree with the super glue statement too. We used to use it because we actually didn't know about contact cement specially made for cushions existed until someone in our youtube comments here brought it to our attention! Since that day that was 5 or 6 years ago we've used nothing but the Penguin Cement available from Cuestix. Finally, we couldn't agree with you more about inhouse service. It's much more easier to work with the rails and the home table isn't in danger if we're leaving the old cloth. We were able to do it at the customers home in this video because we would be replacing all the felt, so it was okay to make it a work table where the cloth would be scrapped and laid with brand new fresh cloth. Making sure your bumpers are perfectly attached is key to great pool play, so thank you for your pointers!
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards I learned a long time back that there are some things a customer shouldn't see. For instance, it isn't uncommon for part of the wood to start peeling away when taking rubber off the rails. For a trained professional, this isn't a big deal. However, if a customer were to see that happening, there's a good chance they would freak out! So, to avoid them getting upset or even concerned, I ALWAYS bring the rails back to the shop to replace the rubber. If something were to go wrong or I were to have problems, I'm MUCH better equipped to handle it at my shop. Also, as far as the customer is concerned, everything went perfectly. Sometimes in order to make an omelet, you've gotta break some eggs. My customers don't need to see me breaking eggs. They just want a perfectly finished product.
Great video. I just paid a lot of money to have my table cushions redone and table refelted. I was disappointed to find that you could feel lumps of glue under the felt on top of the rail. Not happy with the job. Now I know what what done wrong and will request a redo.
+B Money its a little difficult and at least the professional is expected to get it done right the first time. But hey, if you want to do it yourself, we hope this video helps
BE SURE TO CHECK REFERENCES ON THE PROFESSIONAL YOU ARE THINKING OF HIRING. I hired a guy (not this video poster) who had a business card, seemed to be well known, but after he re-covered my table I realized that was money out the window - my original DYI felt job was better than his "pro" job. He even neglected to fill in the bolt holes, so now every time a ball rolls down the rail it goes 'thump, thump' as it rolls over the spots where there is nothing but air under the cloth. And he refused to return to make it right!
Yeah we've leveled up our billiard skills, and we would recommend a razor blade as well if you can get your hands on one. That being said, leathermen knives are amazingly useful.
Not directly related to replacing rail bumpers. But am having a pool table installed soon which will be located near a forced air heater. Am wondering how the heat will effect the rubber bumpers, the wood, and the pool table in general? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hey, I'm sorry it's taken so long to reply! I thought I submitted this already, haha. I don't think that it affect the table negatively other than perhaps making it more dusty as air is blown from the vents onto the table. Maybe the rubber on the rails will go harder sooner as they are consistently blown on, but it will take many years for them to lose their spring depending on the brand.
I looked for the refelting video but don't see it. I hope you make one or that there is one because this video is great and I now feel that I can do it on my own.
If you use contact cement then you don't need the activator spray. If you use super glue then yes you do, because the bumper will sag unless you want to hold it whole time while the glue sets.
That knife sounds pretty good. We do mark the cushion with a pen so that we cut along the lines and it leaves an even cut, just like in the video, though I can see how you might think it could make an uneven cut by pulling it and causing the cut to skew in the end.
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards No I have heard they are the best and give the most consistent play over a much longer period of time. I had a table with them for many years and found it true but was looking to see if it was just my observation or truly part of the industry observations.
@@waynelaw283 Very interesting! I have not heard of Global Rubber before. The rubbers we've dealt with come from Rasson Billiards, Brunswick, and Accu-Fast from Olhausen. Out of all the bumpers we've dealt with, Accu-Fast is the one we recommend the most because it has the most flawless rebound and takes much longer to go hard. What's funny to me is I can't seem to find any online discussion regarding them, but I would assume they would be just as good as bumpers from Rasson or Brunswick.
Is this an American heritage? I've heard of people running into issues replacing the cushions on these due to the strip that runs in the middle of the rail face....a friend of mine wants my help replacing his on his 7ft American heritage....k-66 rails I assume?
I don't think it was an American Heritage, it was a really long time ago and was a pretty generic table. I've heard of that too, and luckily the K-66 profile bumpers we sell and use have a groove in the middle to make that strip negligible. But yes, Am Heritage uses K-66, just find some with that center groove so you don't have to sand down the center strip.
So you see how that rubber pealed off nice and easy and leaves almost no residue, that's because it was glued with contact cement. It creates a strong bond between wood and rubber, but at he same time it remains flexible and allows for easy removal. And unless its a very old table or rubber been exposed to direct heat it will always peal off easy. However, when you use super glue it's nothing but headaches. When glue activates it soaks through the felt backing on the rubber and if you ever need to remove rubber again it will come off in clunks, or backing will stay on the rails or you can take wood right from the rail itself (happens a lot on snooker tables). Yes using contact cement takes longer. Most people recommend using 2 coats of it and you need to let it dry. Smell is another issue of course. I rarely do re-rubber jobs at someones house, unless its properly ventilated or i can work outside. I do sometimes use superglue to attach facings, just because its a bit faster and i always replace them anyways. That's just my experience with super glue. I haven't tried PENGUIN CUSHION one, so cant comment on it, but would like to hear you feedback. How easy is removal of rubber in future after using it.
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards That's right. A blade with little teeth and sharp. When you dip the blade in water it helps prevent drag. I use a meat trimmer. It works very well with a very clean cut. I watched the video cause I was wondering what glue you like to use. I'm not real clear on that.
@@wesleysandifer6157 Awesome! Yeah waaaay back then we used thick CA Super Glue, but nowadays we use Penguin Billiard Cushion Cement: penguin-brand.com/products/penguin-brand-cushion-glue
Not sure what you mean. Are you referring to the center gap in the middle of the bumper? I believe that gap is there for compression give and some brands of tables make some wood that sticks out into that gap, so then bumpers will for on those tables too. Does that help?
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards Hi I am trying to make DIY home made pool table. Another thing I would like to ask is the rubber cushion nose height. In my research it says that the height will be approx 62% the diameter of the ball, thats the nose height. My ball is 1 in. if my calculations are correct its around 0.62 inch or 1.6 cm.
Haha, not sure what the question is but if that is what you have found I'm sure you're correct. I the profile of the wood when it comes to us servicing them is pre-made, so we simply sand the surface smooth to get rid of excess glue or material so we can get a clean stick on the rail. But yes, the nose of the cushion is above the halfway point so as to prevent balls from bouncing upwards, which would cause either damage or frequent falling out of play.
We have since switched to cushion glue which is a specific type of rubber cement, we recommend using that. We used to use any good quality super glue you could find at Home Depot, but because of the great comments on this video, we took the suggestion to use cushion glue and have since stuck with that.
cuestix.com/penguin-cushion-glue.html This is the cushion glue we use. QA-6 NCF Quick 6oz aerosol CA glue accelerator is the activator we prefer to use.
We used to use super glue, but now we use rail cushion cement to attach rubber ends to the rail bumpers. This is the stuff we use, though we buy it through our cuestick vendor, Cuestix: www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmafhBRDUARIsACOKEROFw5FbCZXkqBquC5_Y-SpF9d83KwYsqJvJmRzd5m1UjgoB8UFTxa0aAvwvEALw_wcB
I live on an island off the coast of belize it took forever to find felt an bumper replacement the kit didnt come with rubber ends for the rails could I substitute them with bicycle intertube or leather maby ? Any advice would be great
great informative video. if you were to make the pockets smaller than standard how would you guys do it? since it's a new bumper can you leave it longer or would you still shim it? thanks!
I hope you re-felted the table? I thought I saw you wipe the glue from your hand on the table about 8 minutes in, also, nice work bench you made of the table..........
I see you're using Super Glue or some type of Contact Cement for the rubber rails. My questions are... 1. How Long Did You Have To Wait For The Gluing Process To Dry or Get Sticky Before You Actually Applied The Rubber Rails To The Wood Rail Frame? and... 2. How Long Did You Actually Wait For The Rubber Rails To Stick To The Wood Before Wrapping The Cloth Around The Rubber Rail?
Great questions, with the super glue we didn't have to wait because we would use NCF Quick to catalyze the reaction. We don't use super glue anymore because it's almost too effective at holding down the bumpers and it sucks to rip them off and take parts of wood with it. Ideally we like to use Penguin Cushion glue, but for some reason Penguin hasn't really been making the cement recently. Billiard manufacturers have been recommending DAP contact cement, and that takes half an hour to get tacky and then with the bumpers attached we let them cure for a day. After that we would cut the rubbers and felt the rails.
*Here are all the tools we use today. We use better tools and supplies today compared to when the video was shot, but we still employ the same techniques!* 1. CS Osborne Staple Remover 2. Needle Nose Pliers (or a leatherman) 3. A drill with proper attachments to remove screws and bolts 4. A putty knife makes easy to remove old rubbers 5. New Bumpers. This completely depends on you kind of table, but the industry standard cushion is the K-66 Cushion. 6. Cushion Glue (www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwY-6mrLs2AIVlMhkCh05Uw-mEAYYASABEgK5o_D_BwE) *OR if you don't want expensive professional grade stuff, go for the Great Planes Thick Super Glue Pro CA* *7. You would only need NCF Quick glue activator if you are using Super Glue rather than cushion glue.* 8. Marking tool, we just use a pen 9. A good Serrated blade. Leatherman multi-tools actually have high grade knives on their more expensive sets, and thats what we use. 10. Rubber End Facings. We buy ours from Cuestix. Part # TP5145A 11. A Razor Blade makes cutting those facings easier. You will also need Razors for Trimming felt. *For redoing the felting you will also need:* 12. New cloth. We recommend finding a local dealer for billiards, as they would have some and could give good recommendations on what felt is good felt (unless it sounds like they don't know what they're talking about). 13. Rubber Mallet 14. Industrial grade Stapler, so you can sink your staples completely into the wood without leaving some metal to poke out, cutting your deck felt. Check out our video on how to refelt your rails, because it does require some tricks to make it just right: ua-cam.com/video/ye2Xln-MN-8/v-deo.html
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards gotcha. I tried that place and some guy name Jerry was a prick. I'll never buy anything from that place. Thanks for the response.
Oh there's a place called penguin cement? Haha it's a product we get from cuestix because we can get from them wholesale. You can find it online but just googling billiard cushion glue penguin
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards I didn't realize it might be sold through resellers. There is a penguin-brand.com/ I just assumed it's the same thing. If that's what you use maybe you can save some money direct.
after you trim them its best to hit it with sand paper, and instead of that glue its quicker and better to use contact cement for rubber.... nice video tho...
Yup, we're doing those things now, and we're still using contact cement. Sad about Penguin cement biting the dust. Now we use DAP weldwood like everyone else, but if you have a different recommendation we'd love to hear it. Weldwood just takes a lot time to cure.
Great video , if you are disrespecting the guy , go make a fuckin video on how to do it yourself . Even if it's not the perfect way , this will more than be satisfactory compared to a fucked up table
Great Planes Thick Super Glue Pro CA is what was used in this video, but industry professionals use DAP Weldwood and Barge All Purpose Contact Cement ever since Penguin discontinued their cushion glue. We are currently using Barge on all our cushions.
I'll give you a link to the glue we used back then, BUT we use Cushion glue now thanks to the great comment suggestions below. I'll include a link to that too. Thick Glue: www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMR6013&P=FR&atrkid=V3ADW3A24148B_53255879984_pla-362716352132__221282308944_g_c_pla_with_promotion__1o1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6sjp4qbs2AIVRmV-Ch0dLQOlEAQYASABEgLmSPD_BwE Cushion Glue: www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrtDymqfs2AIVGMpkCh3N8gTpEAQYBSABEgJHNfD_BwE
You're right, if you are only replacing the bumpers you should cover the pool table. However, in this instance because we were going to be replacing the felt with entirely new cloth the old cloth served as the covering.
Do not be like these guys and use super glue!!!! Use a contact cement. If anything goes wrong and they have to pull that rubber back off it's going to pull some of the wood with the rubber and you will have to Bondo the rail to make it flat
We totally agree, don't use super glue if you don't have to! Contact cement or penguin cement (made for billiard cushions) is the best way to go. Hopefully you found the rest of the video helpful @Brian
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards sorry if I seemed too hard on you guys. I have replaced sooo many cushions that have been super glued its ridiculous and it never comes off smoothly.. the rest of the video was great
Yeah shredding a rail when you're trying to fix it is the worst. That's why we love the comments section though, it's made us a better service provider :)
CA glue is super brittle and not suitable for applications where flexion is going to occur. In time these bonds will fracture and degrade, well before the rubber does.
We think its a great work surface when doing pool table service, especially if you properly protect the table with moving blankets like we usually do. In this tables case, it was also going to be a refelt job, so the felt was to be destroyed and replaced.
cuestix.com/cushion-facings.html These are the ends we get for our company. Quality rubber that is for the most part preshaped, so all we have to do is size it down to the specific rail we are working on.
Take A Break Spas & Billiards I now got a thick rubber material from a pool supplier in Manila. It's about 3mm thick and a little stiff. The supplier says that is what they use for facing. photos.app.goo.gl/VTNY4b6XgeNSwsQt2
That should be good. The rubber facings that we put on the ends is supposed to be a more stiff. Just make sure you trim it right so that it fits and doesn't have rubber poking out that could deflect the cue balls in undesirable ways.
I am working on refurbishing an antique pool table, and I am watching all the slate leveling, cushion, and felting videos on youtube to get an idea how to do it correctly. No one does it the same, but the one thing that is the same - in all the comments there is always people saying you did it wrong, call a professional or a guy claiming to be a 10,20,30 year veteran pool table installer calling the guy making the video an idiot. Thanks for putting up the video, it helps out a lot.
Yeah you bet! What's funny is a lot of guys are vets, like Dave here in our video. He's a 20 year vet himself!
yeah, I bought a pool table recently installed by one of those clown, damn rails weren't even straight or parallel. Our local pool halls all have cloth that is not stretched or installed straight with the weave having uneven pulls, rails not square, rails not straight, table parallelogramed, all done by "professional veterans. I have a cheap pool table, all my friends trip over themselves to shoot on it, because I am a machinist and a mechanic by trade, it is level, straight, square and plays like a diamond,
I heard "Hello, this is Chef John from Foodwishes" during the intro lol, same music different tempo. Thx for the vid, I learned a lot!
Yup, classic iMovie standard music haha.
remember, you are the christian bale, of repairing your billards rail
@@sarge727 you're godlike
I just got done building the rails for my son's mini 4-foot pool table for Christmas, which will have real pool table cloth and U23 bumper cushions! I've been referring to this and the rail felting video a ton to make sure I'm doing it right!
That's great to hear Patrick! How did it go?
I think the rails came out pretty nice. Next up will be staining and sealing the rails, then putting on the bumper rubbers, rubber end pieces, and finally adding the cloth to the rails. I may try to upload a short video when it's finished.
That would be great! Can't wait to see how it turns out
Couldn't you use a power miter box to cut those rails clean ?
@@davehansen9124 Good way to get SERIOUSLY hurt!
Boy, this is going to save me some money. thanks bud. I have a 10x 5 brunswick snooker table.
Awesome! Glad to help!
You may want to let people know that K-66 rubber (although currently the industry standard) is not the only rubber profile used in tables. For example: current production Brunswick "Contender" series tables do not use K-66. Older Brunswick tables like the Anniversary and Centennial use K-55. So do a lot of coin-operated pool tables. So, for anyone reading this, don't just assume you have K-66 rubber. ASK QUESTIONS!
I would personally NEVER use CA glue (super glue) to attach rubber. I strictly use Barge Cement. Also, this is not a job I would ever recommend an installer do in someone's home.
Not going to say that everyone should call a professional to replace the rubber on a table; because there are a lot of DIYers out there who are handy enough to get it done properly. But, the average person shouldn't attempt this. You could end up ruining your rails if you aren't careful.
Thanks for your helpful comment Billiards0518. Your absolutely right about the different profiles. We sell a variety of tables, Brunswick included. Our other brands of Olhausen, Imperial, and Presidential use K-66 and we most often service those brands along with Conely, American Heritage, and some others. All of those use K-66 cushion profiles, though we make sure to check that its the right ones. I like that you said the customer should ask, because it would be horrible to get the wrong cushion glued on!
We agree with the super glue statement too. We used to use it because we actually didn't know about contact cement specially made for cushions existed until someone in our youtube comments here brought it to our attention! Since that day that was 5 or 6 years ago we've used nothing but the Penguin Cement available from Cuestix.
Finally, we couldn't agree with you more about inhouse service. It's much more easier to work with the rails and the home table isn't in danger if we're leaving the old cloth. We were able to do it at the customers home in this video because we would be replacing all the felt, so it was okay to make it a work table where the cloth would be scrapped and laid with brand new fresh cloth.
Making sure your bumpers are perfectly attached is key to great pool play, so thank you for your pointers!
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards I learned a long time back that there are some things a customer shouldn't see. For instance, it isn't uncommon for part of the wood to start peeling away when taking rubber off the rails. For a trained professional, this isn't a big deal. However, if a customer were to see that happening, there's a good chance they would freak out! So, to avoid them getting upset or even concerned, I ALWAYS bring the rails back to the shop to replace the rubber. If something were to go wrong or I were to have problems, I'm MUCH better equipped to handle it at my shop. Also, as far as the customer is concerned, everything went perfectly.
Sometimes in order to make an omelet, you've gotta break some eggs. My customers don't need to see me breaking eggs. They just want a perfectly finished product.
@@billiards0518 Couldn't agree more! That makes a whole lot of sense.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Greatly appreciated!
You're welcome!
Great video. I just paid a lot of money to have my table cushions redone and table refelted. I was disappointed to find that you could feel lumps of glue under the felt on top of the rail. Not happy with the job. Now I know what what done wrong and will request a redo.
Glad we could help out in some way!
Great I have the same color pool table and felt, this was a great help. I might pay for a professional after seeing this
+B Money its a little difficult and at least the professional is expected to get it done right the first time. But hey, if you want to do it yourself, we hope this video helps
BE SURE TO CHECK REFERENCES ON THE PROFESSIONAL YOU ARE THINKING OF HIRING. I hired a guy (not this video poster) who had a business card, seemed to be well known, but after he re-covered my table I realized that was money out the window - my original DYI felt job was better than his "pro" job. He even neglected to fill in the bolt holes, so now every time a ball rolls down the rail it goes 'thump, thump' as it rolls over the spots where there is nothing but air under the cloth. And he refused to return to make it right!
good job. I would find something else besides that seraded knife to cut. To jagged for me. Maybe a box cutter or super sharp kitchen knife.
Yeah we've leveled up our billiard skills, and we would recommend a razor blade as well if you can get your hands on one. That being said, leathermen knives are amazingly useful.
Not directly related to replacing rail bumpers. But am having a pool table installed soon which will be located near a forced air heater. Am wondering how the heat will effect the rubber bumpers, the wood, and the pool table in general? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hey, I'm sorry it's taken so long to reply! I thought I submitted this already, haha. I don't think that it affect the table negatively other than perhaps making it more dusty as air is blown from the vents onto the table. Maybe the rubber on the rails will go harder sooner as they are consistently blown on, but it will take many years for them to lose their spring depending on the brand.
I looked for the refelting video but don't see it. I hope you make one or that there is one because this video is great and I now feel that I can do it on my own.
Here it is :) ua-cam.com/video/ye2Xln-MN-8/v-deo.html
With the cement glue, do you still need the activator spray?
If you use contact cement then you don't need the activator spray. If you use super glue then yes you do, because the bumper will sag unless you want to hold it whole time while the glue sets.
I use a dexter shoe repair knife. Cuts that cushion like butter. Don't pull the cushion back either. It will leave an uneven cut.
That knife sounds pretty good. We do mark the cushion with a pen so that we cut along the lines and it leaves an even cut, just like in the video, though I can see how you might think it could make an uneven cut by pulling it and causing the cut to skew in the end.
Do you like/recommend Global Rubber for the K66 rail rubber?
Looking online makes me think that it should be okay. Is there anything that's causing you to hesitate using them?
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards No I have heard they are the best and give the most consistent play over a much longer period of time. I had a table with them for many years and found it true but was looking to see if it was just my observation or truly part of the industry observations.
@@waynelaw283 Very interesting! I have not heard of Global Rubber before. The rubbers we've dealt with come from Rasson Billiards, Brunswick, and Accu-Fast from Olhausen. Out of all the bumpers we've dealt with, Accu-Fast is the one we recommend the most because it has the most flawless rebound and takes much longer to go hard.
What's funny to me is I can't seem to find any online discussion regarding them, but I would assume they would be just as good as bumpers from Rasson or Brunswick.
You can check out the next part to putting your table together with this link: ua-cam.com/video/ye2Xln-MN-8/v-deo.html
Thanks Ry
I was told to just use contact cement on the rails with a brush never seen it done this way it is wrapped tight with felt maybe over kill
Yes, this video is out dated with using super glue. We now use billiard bumper contact cement.
Is this an American heritage? I've heard of people running into issues replacing the cushions on these due to the strip that runs in the middle of the rail face....a friend of mine wants my help replacing his on his 7ft American heritage....k-66 rails I assume?
I don't think it was an American Heritage, it was a really long time ago and was a pretty generic table. I've heard of that too, and luckily the K-66 profile bumpers we sell and use have a groove in the middle to make that strip negligible. But yes, Am Heritage uses K-66, just find some with that center groove so you don't have to sand down the center strip.
Nice job!
I'll be doing similar tomorrow to a 1913 Brunswick.
TII
Awesome, hope it turns out great!
Great job subbed,liked
Thanks for the sub!
What kind of glue are you using to glue the bumpers on with? Thanks for the great video!
It's call Pro CA Thick Glue. It's a super glue, but now a days we use Penguin Cushion Glue instead.
So you see how that rubber pealed off nice and easy and leaves almost no residue, that's because it was glued with contact cement. It creates a strong bond between wood and rubber, but at he same time it remains flexible and allows for easy removal. And unless its a very old table or rubber been exposed to direct heat it will always peal off easy. However, when you use super glue it's nothing but headaches. When glue activates it soaks through the felt backing on the rubber and if you ever need to remove rubber again it will come off in clunks, or backing will stay on the rails or you can take wood right from the rail itself (happens a lot on snooker tables).
Yes using contact cement takes longer. Most people recommend using 2 coats of it and you need to let it dry. Smell is another issue of course. I rarely do re-rubber jobs at someones house, unless its properly ventilated or i can work outside. I do sometimes use superglue to attach facings, just because its a bit faster and i always replace them anyways.
That's just my experience with super glue. I haven't tried PENGUIN CUSHION one, so cant comment on it, but would like to hear you feedback. How easy is removal of rubber in future after using it.
If you use water to lubricate your blade and use a fine Granton Edge blade, you'll get a smooth clean cut.
That sounds very interesting Wesley! Is that to cut the end rubbers?
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards That's right. A blade with little teeth and sharp. When you dip the blade in water it helps prevent drag. I use a meat trimmer. It works very well with a very clean cut. I watched the video cause I was wondering what glue you like to use. I'm not real clear on that.
@@wesleysandifer6157 Awesome! Yeah waaaay back then we used thick CA Super Glue, but nowadays we use Penguin Billiard Cushion Cement: penguin-brand.com/products/penguin-brand-cushion-glue
6:56 what is that concave thing? on that rubber? is that on purpose?
Not sure what you mean. Are you referring to the center gap in the middle of the bumper? I believe that gap is there for compression give and some brands of tables make some wood that sticks out into that gap, so then bumpers will for on those tables too. Does that help?
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards Hi I am trying to make DIY home made pool table. Another thing I would like to ask is the rubber cushion nose height. In my research it says that the height will be approx 62% the diameter of the ball, thats the nose height. My ball is 1 in. if my calculations are correct its around 0.62 inch or 1.6 cm.
Haha, not sure what the question is but if that is what you have found I'm sure you're correct. I the profile of the wood when it comes to us servicing them is pre-made, so we simply sand the surface smooth to get rid of excess glue or material so we can get a clean stick on the rail. But yes, the nose of the cushion is above the halfway point so as to prevent balls from bouncing upwards, which would cause either damage or frequent falling out of play.
@@syvcthr5927 I built a table from the ground up..... ua-cam.com/video/TR-RhxH8wcs/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Nick
Would love to know the specific type of glue you used here-- or the specific type you would recommend.
We have since switched to cushion glue which is a specific type of rubber cement, we recommend using that. We used to use any good quality super glue you could find at Home Depot, but because of the great comments on this video, we took the suggestion to use cushion glue and have since stuck with that.
when you say cushion glue, do you contact cement? also is there a brand for the glue activator?
3M Scotch grip [industrial] works great
cuestix.com/penguin-cushion-glue.html
This is the cushion glue we use.
QA-6 NCF Quick 6oz aerosol CA glue accelerator is the activator we prefer to use.
What kind of glue did you use
In this video we used thick super glue. Today we use Penguin Cushion Glue
what were you spraying on to the glue?
Glue Activator
It was NCF Quick CA Accelerator. You can also use Zap Kicker CA Accelerator.
What kind of glue is used on the rail bottoms?
We used to use super glue, but now we use rail cushion cement to attach rubber ends to the rail bumpers. This is the stuff we use, though we buy it through our cuestick vendor, Cuestix: www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmafhBRDUARIsACOKEROFw5FbCZXkqBquC5_Y-SpF9d83KwYsqJvJmRzd5m1UjgoB8UFTxa0aAvwvEALw_wcB
Where did you get the bumper rubber to replace the old one?
We get them from our supplier at Imperial Inc. We are a dealer for them, so we get discount bumpers for both service and resale.
I live on an island off the coast of belize it took forever to find felt an bumper replacement the kit didnt come with rubber ends for the rails could I substitute them with bicycle intertube or leather maby ? Any advice would be great
@@russelldarintullis2731 Um... No.
great informative video. if you were to make the pockets smaller than standard how would you guys do it? since it's a new bumper can you leave it longer or would you still shim it? thanks!
Smaller pockets wouldn't change the procedure of replacing bumpers.
I hope you re-felted the table? I thought I saw you wipe the glue from your hand on the table about 8 minutes in, also, nice work bench you made of the table..........
Yeah the table was refelted too, all brand new felt was placed
Yes, the old cloth was to be destroyed and completely refelted with new cloth.
I see you're using Super Glue or some type of Contact Cement for the rubber rails. My questions are...
1. How Long Did You Have To Wait For The Gluing Process To Dry or Get Sticky Before You Actually Applied The Rubber Rails To The Wood Rail Frame? and...
2. How Long Did You Actually Wait For The Rubber Rails To Stick To The Wood Before Wrapping The Cloth Around The Rubber Rail?
Great questions, with the super glue we didn't have to wait because we would use NCF Quick to catalyze the reaction. We don't use super glue anymore because it's almost too effective at holding down the bumpers and it sucks to rip them off and take parts of wood with it.
Ideally we like to use Penguin Cushion glue, but for some reason Penguin hasn't really been making the cement recently. Billiard manufacturers have been recommending DAP contact cement, and that takes half an hour to get tacky and then with the bumpers attached we let them cure for a day. After that we would cut the rubbers and felt the rails.
I need to redo all my rails... could you send me a complete list of the tools it will take to do the job Including refelting?
*Here are all the tools we use today. We use better tools and supplies today compared to when the video was shot, but we still employ the same techniques!*
1. CS Osborne Staple Remover
2. Needle Nose Pliers (or a leatherman)
3. A drill with proper attachments to remove screws and bolts
4. A putty knife makes easy to remove old rubbers
5. New Bumpers. This completely depends on you kind of table, but the industry standard cushion is the K-66 Cushion.
6. Cushion Glue (www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwY-6mrLs2AIVlMhkCh05Uw-mEAYYASABEgK5o_D_BwE)
*OR if you don't want expensive professional grade stuff, go for the Great Planes Thick Super Glue Pro CA*
*7. You would only need NCF Quick glue activator if you are using Super Glue rather than cushion glue.*
8. Marking tool, we just use a pen
9. A good Serrated blade. Leatherman multi-tools actually have high grade knives on their more expensive sets, and thats what we use.
10. Rubber End Facings. We buy ours from Cuestix. Part # TP5145A
11. A Razor Blade makes cutting those facings easier. You will also need Razors for Trimming felt.
*For redoing the felting you will also need:*
12. New cloth. We recommend finding a local dealer for billiards, as they would have some and could give good recommendations on what felt is good felt (unless it sounds like they don't know what they're talking about).
13. Rubber Mallet
14. Industrial grade Stapler, so you can sink your staples completely into the wood without leaving some metal to poke out, cutting your deck felt.
Check out our video on how to refelt your rails, because it does require some tricks to make it just right: ua-cam.com/video/ye2Xln-MN-8/v-deo.html
Thank you so much. Your videos are saving me several hundreds of dollars! I very much appreciate it!
You're very welcome!
the cutting is fine if your out in the field and need to do a course cut.but it's faster to use super glue on the facing.
Thanks for the tip!
I've watched a few other videos and your the only one not using a rubber cement of some kind. Is there a reason you don't?
Yup it's because our video is old, haha! We definitely use Penguin Cement nowadays, which is a rubber cement specially formulated for billiard rails
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards gotcha. I tried that place and some guy name Jerry was a prick. I'll never buy anything from that place. Thanks for the response.
Oh there's a place called penguin cement? Haha it's a product we get from cuestix because we can get from them wholesale. You can find it online but just googling billiard cushion glue penguin
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards I didn't realize it might be sold through resellers. There is a penguin-brand.com/ I just assumed it's the same thing. If that's what you use maybe you can save some money direct.
@@fixitrod4969 Yup that is definitely them. Thanks for that information! I hope we can certainly save some by going direct
So, figuring it out AFTER the FACT, there is a top side and a bottom side to the cushions, the bottom side is the rounded part... wish I woulda known
Well thanks for emailing me and clarifying, hope the project turns out great!
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards Thanks for the quick reply! I will be felting the rails when I get home in the morning. Greatly appreciate your help!
@@EddieMurdock Any time
Can I reuse the old rubber cushions and just swap the cushion fabric?
Absolutely! Check out our felting rails video for help on that.
Hola me puedes dar más información gracias
que informacion quieres saber
after you trim them its best to hit it with sand paper, and instead of that glue its quicker and better to use contact cement for rubber.... nice video tho...
Thank you for your comment years ago! Because of your suggestion we've been using cushion glue since then.
Yup, we're doing those things now, and we're still using contact cement. Sad about Penguin cement biting the dust. Now we use DAP weldwood like everyone else, but if you have a different recommendation we'd love to hear it. Weldwood just takes a lot time to cure.
Great video , if you are disrespecting the guy , go make a fuckin video on how to do it yourself . Even if it's not the perfect way , this will more than be satisfactory compared to a fucked up table
Haha thanks for your support Andrew :)
What is the glue name?
Great Planes Thick Super Glue Pro CA is what was used in this video, but industry professionals use DAP Weldwood and Barge All Purpose Contact Cement ever since Penguin discontinued their cushion glue. We are currently using Barge on all our cushions.
WHICH "Thick glue" is best??? I've researched this until my head is spinning!! Precisely which glue was used in this video??????
I'll give you a link to the glue we used back then, BUT we use Cushion glue now thanks to the great comment suggestions below. I'll include a link to that too.
Thick Glue: www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMR6013&P=FR&atrkid=V3ADW3A24148B_53255879984_pla-362716352132__221282308944_g_c_pla_with_promotion__1o1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6sjp4qbs2AIVRmV-Ch0dLQOlEAQYASABEgLmSPD_BwE
Cushion Glue: www.pooldawg.com/penguin-cushion-adhesive?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrtDymqfs2AIVGMpkCh3N8gTpEAQYBSABEgJHNfD_BwE
I just replaced mine and used industrial adhesive E6800, ordered it on Amazon
Mẫu bàn bi-a giành cho người đam mê
Thanks Buddy :)
Good video but working ontop of the pool table without covering it and spraying glue all over the place...
You're right, if you are only replacing the bumpers you should cover the pool table. However, in this instance because we were going to be replacing the felt with entirely new cloth the old cloth served as the covering.
See this is why I say never do things on the cheap in the long time always pays to go for quality workmanship
Couldn't agree more with you Bunter
Wow... After seeing this, I have to say, please call someone else to do the rubber next time. LMAO.
Can you explain your comment?
Our process has changed, and we're doing more than ever. We appreciate the time you took to watch our video though :)
Do not be like these guys and use super glue!!!! Use a contact cement. If anything goes wrong and they have to pull that rubber back off it's going to pull some of the wood with the rubber and you will have to Bondo the rail to make it flat
We totally agree, don't use super glue if you don't have to! Contact cement or penguin cement (made for billiard cushions) is the best way to go. Hopefully you found the rest of the video helpful @Brian
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards sorry if I seemed too hard on you guys. I have replaced sooo many cushions that have been super glued its ridiculous and it never comes off smoothly.. the rest of the video was great
Yeah shredding a rail when you're trying to fix it is the worst. That's why we love the comments section though, it's made us a better service provider :)
CA glue is super brittle and not suitable for applications where flexion is going to occur. In time these bonds will fracture and degrade, well before the rubber does.
I agree, this was the old way of doing it. The new way is to use Penguin Billiard Cushion Cement
i now know why the cushion replacement is pricey..
Haha yup!
The table top is not a proper work surface.
We think its a great work surface when doing pool table service, especially if you properly protect the table with moving blankets like we usually do. In this tables case, it was also going to be a refelt job, so the felt was to be destroyed and replaced.
Thank god for the mute button
Yeah that iMovie music does not age well does it
You butchered the rubber cuts and your layout method is sloppy....just saying...
Thank you for your input
Why do you use stupid music? Could not watch all because your poor choice in music
Delia - did you never learn manners, growing up in your home? Allow me: "If you don't have anything good to share, keep your cake hole closed."
It's called "jazz", and is particularly appropriate for any situation involving a pool table!
We all regret some choices in our lives 😂
What material is that you use for the rubber ends?
cuestix.com/cushion-facings.html
These are the ends we get for our company. Quality rubber that is for the most part preshaped, so all we have to do is size it down to the specific rail we are working on.
Take A Break Spas & Billiards OK thank you. Don't know where I can find that here in the Philippines though.
Yeah that complicates things a bit. Do you have a local billiards retailer?
Take A Break Spas & Billiards I now got a thick rubber material from a pool supplier in Manila. It's about 3mm thick and a little stiff. The supplier says that is what they use for facing. photos.app.goo.gl/VTNY4b6XgeNSwsQt2
That should be good. The rubber facings that we put on the ends is supposed to be a more stiff. Just make sure you trim it right so that it fits and doesn't have rubber poking out that could deflect the cue balls in undesirable ways.