I've been pretty much doin same thing..doin the lowers width n tying into upper w a bridge port on the side closest to intake..that n opening intake n exhaust has improved flow tremendously at high rpm..now understanding timing wheel I'm gonna play with exhaust roof for a lil rpm jump..i know this will decrease torque but it's all experimenting anyway..it took alot of videos n literature to understanding the timing wheel but I found Ben halls video to be the one that really helped me understand what's going on..so far so good..good luck to you n these videos help beginners like me as well so thx dude!!
Sounds like your doing quite well. I did look up the bridge porting. Cool stuff. Made a mount for degree wheel that fits my ms 460. Thats probably the one that I will practice on. It's been apart for quite a while. I can always check the timing on the 660 when I have more experience. Just enjoying the work and great comments. Thank you!
Hello, there is a video of some testing (for fun) with a rich tune running a 24" bar w/ 3/8 chain. This saw will be run with a 18" .325 8 pin. The video is titled: Ported Stihl 026 agressive 24" 7 pin 3/8 RS full comp dry oak/maple. Thank you for your interest. .
Please show me your intake and exhaust port work a little...??? The 026 intake boot has that blocked section also...so I’m looking at the 034 or husky 350 boots to take full advantage of removing that huge blockage right in front of the intake... straightening that adds a ton more overall torque!!!
I uploaded a new 026 porting video. Hope that shows what your looking for. I open them up a bit and make them slightly wider. Still learning. Not familiar with the other intake boots. Something for me to look into. Thanks for watching!
On this particular cylinder I originally took the messy lip out but then decided to put a little lip on it. I did not time the cylinder it has stock timing and using factory gasket for around .020 . I generally take the lip out but try not to lower it much until I'm more familiar with a degree wheel. I've seen a few cylinders with no lip at all. Thanks for watching
Honing a chrome or nikasil lined cylinder is a huge no no lol and while repairing a piston will work using sandpaper.. just remember a new aftermarket cylinder kit is 30 bucks for this saw and if ur porting it, then u will actually end up fixing every issue with after market cylinders. Just cool little tip. But the issue with replairing pistons is, it will increase piston to wall clearance which is pretty important in a 2 stroke lol so it will work and will run, but won't last every long, and will have less compression and power. Some people get lucky and their clearance is still fairly tight after repair, so sometimes u get lucky lol but the reason u don't hone a plated cylinder is because u weaken the plating, you increase clearance, and the coating is too thick for rings to smooth out hone marks which is the original intent for honing. I build both engines lol anyhow I hoped this helps ya! We all learn one way or the other my friend. I've ruined alot of cylinders in my years of learning 🤣
That piston is the original to show the condition it was in. New Meteor piston with Caber rings and ran about 1 tank of fuel. Saw was taken apart to change the ports abit. At this point I had purchaced a few Flex hones and gave it about 3 revolutions each direction. Nakasil type coating thick, hard and durable I'm ok with. Good am piston $35+ or quality am kit approximately $100 - $140. I prefer to clean up a good usable oem cylinder when possible, but know when it's not worth using. Totally understand your perspective and appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!
I’m going to disagree with this comment,fully. Nikasil is so hard. Aviation and metric bike motors have been using this for decades. In the racing world it’s very common to hone nikasil with 320-480 grit. Trick is too do it slowly and use the correct torque plates
Looks like a good home job, cool stuff
Thank you!
I've been pretty much doin same thing..doin the lowers width n tying into upper w a bridge port on the side closest to intake..that n opening intake n exhaust has improved flow tremendously at high rpm..now understanding timing wheel I'm gonna play with exhaust roof for a lil rpm jump..i know this will decrease torque but it's all experimenting anyway..it took alot of videos n literature to understanding the timing wheel but I found Ben halls video to be the one that really helped me understand what's going on..so far so good..good luck to you n these videos help beginners like me as well so thx dude!!
Sounds like your doing quite well. I did look up the bridge porting. Cool stuff. Made a mount for degree wheel that fits my ms 460. Thats probably the one that I will practice on. It's been apart for quite a while. I can always check the timing on the 660 when I have more experience. Just enjoying the work and great comments. Thank you!
How did it run?
I like for your follow up video..... didn't see it.
How did it run???
Hello, there is a video of some testing (for fun) with a rich tune running a 24" bar w/ 3/8 chain. This saw will be run with a 18" .325 8 pin. The video is titled: Ported Stihl 026 agressive 24" 7 pin 3/8 RS full comp dry oak/maple. Thank you for your interest.
.
Please show me your intake and exhaust port work a little...??? The 026 intake boot has that blocked section also...so I’m looking at the 034 or husky 350 boots to take full advantage of removing that huge blockage right in front of the intake... straightening that adds a ton more overall torque!!!
I uploaded a new 026 porting video. Hope that shows what your looking for. I open them up a bit and make them slightly wider. Still learning. Not familiar with the other intake boots. Something for me to look into. Thanks for watching!
Take the lip out of intake.
You time this cylinder?
On this particular cylinder I originally took the messy lip out but then decided to put a little lip on it. I did not time the cylinder it has stock timing and using factory gasket for around .020 . I generally take the lip out but try not to lower it much until I'm more familiar with a degree wheel. I've seen a few cylinders with no lip at all. Thanks for watching
Honing a chrome or nikasil lined cylinder is a huge no no lol and while repairing a piston will work using sandpaper.. just remember a new aftermarket cylinder kit is 30 bucks for this saw and if ur porting it, then u will actually end up fixing every issue with after market cylinders. Just cool little tip. But the issue with replairing pistons is, it will increase piston to wall clearance which is pretty important in a 2 stroke lol so it will work and will run, but won't last every long, and will have less compression and power. Some people get lucky and their clearance is still fairly tight after repair, so sometimes u get lucky lol but the reason u don't hone a plated cylinder is because u weaken the plating, you increase clearance, and the coating is too thick for rings to smooth out hone marks which is the original intent for honing. I build both engines lol anyhow I hoped this helps ya! We all learn one way or the other my friend. I've ruined alot of cylinders in my years of learning 🤣
That piston is the original to show the condition it was in. New Meteor piston with Caber rings and ran about 1 tank of fuel. Saw was taken apart to change the ports abit. At this point I had purchaced a few Flex hones and gave it about 3 revolutions each direction. Nakasil type coating thick, hard and durable I'm ok with. Good am piston $35+ or quality am kit approximately $100 - $140. I prefer to clean up a good usable oem cylinder when possible, but know when it's not worth using. Totally understand your perspective and appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!
I’m going to disagree with this comment,fully. Nikasil is so hard. Aviation and metric bike motors have been using this for decades. In the racing world it’s very common to hone nikasil with 320-480 grit. Trick is too do it slowly and use the correct torque plates
@@sffabrications3872 Absolutely agree with you. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!