I would suggest when changing out parts that should be maintained or may need to come apart in the future that you always change out the old hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, etc) makes life easier in the future. And grease. Also you are prepared if the cutting wheel has to come out.
Rear suspension was the first mechanical thing I did to my B. I needed to replace springs, bushings and dampers. I had some very tired Spax dampers and the springs were inverted when the car was on the wheels and one leaf on the drivers side had started to crack. I gave myself 2 days to do it. 4 days, an angle grinder, blowtorch and 2 12mm HSS drill bits I managed to get the old stuff off 🤣 At one point I had to melt the rubber bushings out of the front shock mounts to be able to cut the bolts off. I learnt some new swear words that weekend.
I think I was lucky with how straightforward mine was actually. There'll be more to do when it comes to taking the car off its wheels for bodywork repairs in the future.
Hi there, Great job for safety I would be chock the front wheels , or lift the whole thing off the ground on a post lift but that said lots of money for those things but all said and done great work.😊
I love watching you and the work you do. And I love it, you're so 'Irish' - I had 8 years of the ICBs in the sixties and the accent brings back memories. I have just rebuilt the engine, overdrive, front suspension and changed to a chrome front cross member and adjusted rack. Working on the back end now and will do the same as you have just done. Keep up the good work. Best wishes Paul
@@Endfloat From what I read the rear arb causes understeer and getting rid allows the rear end to roll a bit more which reduces understeer. Mine still corners very flat but turns in really well and hardly understeers at all.
Check strap nuts....be careful with those if you strip or break them it's diff out and a fun repair or replacement of the tube, not easy to re-weld back on.
I've literally just received these too with no idea how to fit the flaming things ata ll. Haynes mauals are so rubbish! This video will be a godsend Thankyou!
I’m about to re-build my 1968 MGBGT front suspension and have already bought the up-rated v8 bushings from MGB Hive. Could I ask where yours came from as I may well change them for the poly bushings Thanks
I think I'd have installed new springs at the same time as they're not that expensive. I probably would have also wire brushed the petrol tank as some of the rust seems less than surface. Great video as always though.
@@Endfloat the bump stop saddle is mounted on top of the axle and held in place by the u-bolts. They provide a striking platform for the rubber stop mounted on the body. Defo not there/rotted away.
@@Endfloat nope the rubber stop is but the metal pedestal has rotted away. Your suspension in the rear will thus bottom out on the axel.....good luck. Love the content
I tapped a large chisel into the end of the curl in the spring, which pried it open, then drove out with a socket. Pretty easy!!
I've just got a 76 BGT and I've learnt a lot from your videos, very informative
I would suggest when changing out parts that should be maintained or may need to come apart in the future that you always change out the old hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, etc) makes life easier in the future. And grease. Also you are prepared if the cutting wheel has to come out.
Rear suspension was the first mechanical thing I did to my B. I needed to replace springs, bushings and dampers. I had some very tired Spax dampers and the springs were inverted when the car was on the wheels and one leaf on the drivers side had started to crack. I gave myself 2 days to do it. 4 days, an angle grinder, blowtorch and 2 12mm HSS drill bits I managed to get the old stuff off 🤣 At one point I had to melt the rubber bushings out of the front shock mounts to be able to cut the bolts off. I learnt some new swear words that weekend.
I think I was lucky with how straightforward mine was actually. There'll be more to do when it comes to taking the car off its wheels for bodywork repairs in the future.
A fantastic little tinkering video Ross, really enjoyable.
My front driver's side bolt was seized into the bushing as well. I had to cut and replace the bolt to remove the spring...
More terrific stuff.. so informative and useful
charmingly presented. Keep em coming
Thank you!
Hi there, Great job for safety I would be chock the front wheels , or lift the whole thing off the ground on a post lift but that said lots of money for those things but all said and done great work.😊
Well done EF. A good time to soak the springs in oil, makes a difference as the springs slide longitudinally when driving.
I love watching you and the work you do. And I love it, you're so 'Irish' - I had 8 years of the ICBs in the sixties and the accent brings back memories. I have just rebuilt the engine, overdrive, front suspension and changed to a chrome front cross member and adjusted rack. Working on the back end now and will do the same as you have just done. Keep up the good work. Best wishes Paul
Thanks! I always just try to be myself. Glad you like the videos!
I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my Toyota 4runner so it was good to watch this video-thanks!
Be aware that it can make the ride very firm.
I modified my RB car by fitting a 3/4" front ARB, lowering and getting rid of the rear ARB. Handles brilliantly.
Getting rid of the rear ARB?? I'd have thought that would have a detrimental effect on handling.
@@Endfloat From what I read the rear arb causes understeer and getting rid allows the rear end to roll a bit more which reduces understeer. Mine still corners very flat but turns in really well and hardly understeers at all.
Well done, great job..
Check strap nuts....be careful with those if you strip or break them it's diff out and a fun repair or replacement of the tube, not easy to re-weld back on.
Ooh yeah good point! I could see that being a nightmare!
I've literally just received these too with no idea how to fit the flaming things ata ll. Haynes mauals are so rubbish! This video will be a godsend Thankyou!
I’m about to re-build my 1968 MGBGT front suspension and have already bought the up-rated v8 bushings from MGB Hive. Could I ask where yours came from as I may well change them for the poly bushings
Thanks
I bought mine from just MGs in Northern Ireland. They're probably all the same though, but yeah, I'd fit the poly ones from the get go.
I think I'd have installed new springs at the same time as they're not that expensive. I probably would have also wire brushed the petrol tank as some of the rust seems less than surface. Great video as always though.
I have a new tank for it, but yeah, I probably should have done the springs too.
You need a G clamp to push in those bushes there buddy 👍
Yeah but that would involve going to my G clamp box, which was at the other side of the garage! 😁
Hi There. Could you possibly give the model of your Ryobi impact gun.
I have a 77 MGB in Canada. Really enjoy your channel.
I'll look for it when I'm in the garage next, but they have better ones out now. The brushless one is much more powerful. And thanks! 😎
Thanks
More MG vids please 🙂
I have a few jobs in the pipeline. I need to get an issue with the rear suspension sorted out, so there'll be a video on that.
I think it is important when tackling a job like this to have empty chocolate tubs on the bench😅
bump stop pedestals are missing aren't they? Must have rotted away??
No, the bump stops are there. I think. Now I want to check!
@@Endfloat the bump stop saddle is mounted on top of the axle and held in place by the u-bolts. They provide a striking platform for the rubber stop mounted on the body. Defo not there/rotted away.
@@Endfloat nope the rubber stop is but the metal pedestal has rotted away. Your suspension in the rear will thus bottom out on the axel.....good luck. Love the content
Some operator
😁